In the case of replacing plumbing equipment such as a toilet bowl or a sewer riser, it is necessary to very carefully perform the procedure for caulking cast-iron pipes in the first place. With strict observance of all the rules for caulking or caulking connected sewer pipes, it is possible to do such work with your own hands.

The embossing is done in the following order

First, it is necessary to very carefully, without undue effort, tap the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer in order to avoid complete replacement of the riser section in case of cracking.
By lightly loosening the dismantled pipe, it is necessary to make sure that the socket can move and rotate freely on the sides and can be gradually released from the chasing with a cable. Now you can dismantle it in the following order:
in all directions it is necessary to loosen the socket;
gradually pull out the rope and pick it with a thin straight object with a screwdriver or some kind of rod;
the rope must be firmly grasped with pliers;
continue to slowly loosen it and gently pull the rope.

The ineffectual tapping and immobility of the bell indicate that the chasing was performed using a special sulfur filling. In this case, it is necessary to perform the direct burnout procedure according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to carefully heat the socket section of the cast-iron pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or gas burner, while you must not forget to continue loosening, unscrewing and tapping the socket part of the pipe;

After it has moved from the place of the old embedment, it is necessary to continue to loosen it with the help of some tool, an adjustable wrench, etc.
After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully clean with any cutting tool a knife, chisel or chisel. When cleaning, special attention should be paid to the socket seat, on which sealing rubber will subsequently be installed.
Place greased into the cleaned socket. Install the required assembly in the seal.

Coin options

In order to firmly and hermetically construct a sewer system from cast-iron pipelines and parts for it, it is imperative to provide for the correct option for sealing the resulting gap filling the void between the pipes, which is always shown when the inner socket part of the pipe is butt-joined with its outer surface part.
It should be noted that the choice of the necessary consumables, the appropriate special tools for sealing work and the amount of time spent depend on the method of sealing the connection of cast-iron pipes. It is proposed to consider the currently existing two options for caulking cast iron joints.
1. The first option is the use of cement mortar

The procedure for sealing pipe joints with cement mortar consists of the following steps:
In the resulting gap between the pipes, it is necessary to lay a special tarred sealant. To make such a gasket, a conventional tourniquet pre-tarred in a special solution is used, which is driven into the gap formed between the pipe and the socket to a depth equal to 2/3 of the gap space. After creating the first sealing ring, it is necessary to put the end of the rope (tow) on top of this ring so that it does not end up inside the pipe being installed.
Next, it is necessary to seal the remaining part of the depth of the gap (1/3 of the remaining space) between the pipes with the prepared mortar from cement, already compacted with a tarred tourniquet in front of this. In order to increase the density and reliability of the caulking of the joints, it is required to use a special coinage together with a hammer, with which it is necessary to carefully tamp the cement mortar. The moment of the end of caulking is considered to be the beginning of rebounds of the caulking from the clogged cement seal. In order to obtain a high-quality setting of the cement mortar, it is necessary to cover the compacted area with a wet cloth, for example, gauze.
In order to prepare a cement mortar, you will need to purchase cement grade 300400. It must be mixed with water in a ratio of 9/1.
You can increase the speed of work when caulking with the help of special tools such as broadened caulking and caulking. At the same time, the entire process is accelerated by 30%.
If the work is carried out in winter at low ambient temperatures, then the cement mortar in this case must be kneaded in heated water, and it is also necessary to perform temporary insulation of the pipe joint sealed with cement.

2. The second option is the use of asbestos cement

This process is slightly different from the previous one and has its own procedure:
It is necessary to knead the asbestos fiber in a dry state with cement in a ratio of 1/2, respectively;
The collected dry mix must be kneaded in water before being used as a seal between pipes. The volume of water in the solution should be about 1012% of the total volume of the prepared mixture.
The process of caulking the gap between the pipes is carried out in a similar way in accordance with the established procedure for the first option for sealing the joints.

Such a procedure as chasing or chasing connections between has its own difficulties and difficulties with its own nuances and tricks. Therefore, in order to achieve a positive result with such laborious work, it is recommended to seek help from knowledgeable and experienced professionals. In this case, there is a guarantee that you can get rid of unnecessary hassle and costs during an unplanned replacement of risers as a result of, for example, unsuccessful tapping of the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer.

Before the advent of new materials, such as metal-plastic or plastic pipes, most houses had steel or cast-iron sewers. Before installing a new pipeline, it is necessary to dismantle the old one, which is not an easy task, because earlier cast-iron structures were connected with cement mortar, aluminum or sulfur. Such a pipeline is difficult to dismantle, so it is worth preparing for a laborious and protracted process.

When a cast-iron sewer is being dismantled, a wide variety of tools can be used, because it all depends on the method and material of chasing. However, the most important devices can be distinguished - these are:

• grinder, with which you can cut out a pipeline element;
• grinding or cutting discs;
• blowtorch;
• a set of different screwdrivers, a hammer;
• chisel;
• special pipe wrench;
• goggles, a mask, and when disassembling structures that were connected with gray, also a headdress;
• perforator;
• nail puller or crowbar;
• pipe cutter;
• chisel or steel wedge;
• iron bucket with water.

Before starting work, it is worth determining the connection method in order to sketch out a rough plan for how to disassemble the cast-iron sewer.

Moments of dismantling cast iron

With a complete replacement of the structure with a plastic one, you can not do extra work and just smash everything with a hammer. This is quite easy to do, because cast iron is considered a brittle material. However, if only part of the pipeline needs to be dismantled, the work must be done more carefully.

Before dismantling the cast-iron sewer, it is necessary to inspect the entire system to determine the area that will be repaired. Then be sure to turn off the water supply so that the drains do not enter the sewer. Further disassembly is carried out in stages:

1. The part of the pipe located below the connection is cut off.
2. The pipe is separated from the socket. The embossing methods will be discussed in more detail.
3. If you remove the connection just does not come out, use a blowtorch or make surrounding cuts 20 mm long.

When carrying out procedures, it is imperative to use all protective equipment due to the injury risk of this work.

Caulking of the pipeline with sulfur compound

Regardless of how the cast-iron sewer was connected, it is imperative to carry out some standard preparatory work before replacing:

• turn off the water;
• disconnect the hose leading to the toilet;
• remove the toilet itself by unscrewing the bolts;
• clean the bathroom of appliances and furniture.

To determine whether sulfur was really used when connecting pipes, you need to bring a blowtorch to the seam. Under the influence of high temperatures, sulfur melts, accompanying this process with an unpleasant odor.

When disassembling cast-iron sewer pipes, work begins from the farthest corner. The element must be broken with a hammer. It is better to use a tool with a plastic or polymer base, because the sewer can become clogged due to metal nozzles. Having found the cross leading to the riser, it is necessary to loosen it as much as possible.

Then you need to prepare a blowtorch or gas burner. At least two people should be involved in heating up the connections. While one warms up and melts sulfur, the other must loosen the structure. When doing this, be sure to use gloves and other protective equipment.

When the connecting substance is completely melted, the crosspiece can be removed from the riser. At the same time, you should be very careful, you need to remember to remove the remaining sulfur, and then let the riser cool thoroughly. If the cast iron structure is too strong, you can always make a few cuts near the pipe that needs to be removed. This will make the extraction process easier.

Cement bonded pipeline caulking

Dismantling cast iron pipes that have been connected with cement is practically the same as the above-mentioned sulfur option, but it is much safer. This is because when sulfur melts, a lot of carbon monoxide is released.

To start dismantling, you need to cut off part of the pipe. In this case, it is worth retreating at least 30 cm from the junction. The hardened cement is removed with a hammer, which must be beaten with a screwdriver or a chisel inserted into the hole. All procedures should be performed as carefully as possible so as not to damage the socket.

When the joints are freed from cement, you need to try to loosen the main pipe. In order not to process the sewer with a blowtorch or a burner, it is necessary to remove the cable, but if this cannot be dispensed with, it is necessary to heat it up strongly or use a specialized key. For example, for a 50 mm pipe, tool Nos. 3 and 4 are used.

The crosspiece is located below on the main riser. To remove it, you can simply use a hammer with a screwdriver. At the same time, for some time, you need to lightly tap on the tee itself in order to form a small gap between it and the pipe. Then you need to penetrate this opening, pry off the tee and remove it. It will take a lot of time to carry out these manipulations, in addition, this method is ineffective.

The next option is to use a blowtorch or burner. Dismantling is much faster, but the price for this is an unpleasant smell that takes a long time to disappear. First of all, you need to cut the socket of the cross. Then a heating device is placed in the pipe. A metal shield is applied to the upper part of the pipe in order to be able to regulate the draft inside the riser. When heated, you need to start swinging the pipe and, as soon as possible, remove the dismantled tee.

You can also use a grinder. To do this, you must first cut off parts of the tee, leaving a small piece in the pipe. Then put a medium-sized disk that could freely get inside, and cut through the remaining parts of the structure with a grinder, knocking them out with a hammer.

What to do in case of failure?

The dismantling of the pipeline is carried out to the permissible limit, because it is better to cut the pipe before it passes into the socket. At the same time, joining a cast-iron pipeline with a plastic one will take much less effort and time. It is better to cut the structure with a grinder, but if it is not there, you can use a hacksaw to work with metal. The use of this tool can greatly increase the duration of the dismantling process.

If the dismantling failed, do not be upset, because you can simply purchase a specialized transitional coupling, with which cast-iron and polymer pipes are connected.

If you have difficulty cutting the pipe, you can cut it in half. Then you need to apply slight pressure or rotate so that the element bursts. If it cannot be removed from the socket, you just need to make several cuts in a circle with an interval of 20 mm, after which it can be removed from the riser.

Before starting the connection of the cast-iron and polymer pipeline, it is necessary to clean the first option of sulfur by heating. After removing the substance, it is necessary to leave the pipes for several hours and allow them to cool.

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How to caulk a cast-iron pipe?

Boris Natanovich, Omsk asks a question:

Hello. In my apartment in the toilet, an old cast-iron pipe is leaking under the toilet. I want to solve this problem myself. Therefore, I appeal to those who know and can tell in detail how to mint a cast-iron pipe. How to mint it, I have a rough idea. I've been involved in this type of work before. But how you can mint, I have absolutely no idea. While there is time, I want to do this laborious process. Therefore, I am waiting for various recommendations with different ways of caulking cast iron pipes so that I can start working. Thanks in advance to everyone who will answer my question.

The expert answers:

Before you start chasing cast iron pipes, you need to choose the method that suits you.

The caulking of cast-iron pipes, which accompanies the change of a toilet bowl or a riser, involves caulking a pipe, which is performed as carefully as possible. The slicing procedure is as follows:

How to emboss a cast iron pipe?

1. First of all, the bell at the pipe is tapped with a slight effort of the hammer, trying to exclude its split, so that the riser does not have to be changed completely.
2. Feeling the free movement of the bell and that it can be freed from chasing with a cable, proceed to dismantling:

• loosen the socket in different directions;
• pick up with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
• firmly grasp the rope with pliers;
• without haste, they try to pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the pipe.

1. If the tapping did not give results, the bell remains motionless, which means that the caulking was done by filling with sulfur. The burning method is used for the latter:

• by means of a burner or a soldering lamp, the cast iron is heated in a circle, trying not to harm the pipe, at the same time they are tapping with a hammer;
• if the bell moves a little from a place, it is loosened in different directions with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the successful release of the bell, it is cleaned using a chisel or chisel. With special care, the socket saddle is cleaned, on which rubber will be put on for sealing.
2. The sealing rubber ring is coated with a special lubricant, and then inserted into the socket.
3. Mount the new element in the seal.

Cast iron pipe caulking technology

When assembling a system represented by cast iron pipes, it is worth deciding in advance on the option of filling voids that necessarily occur during installation between the outer surface on the pipe and inside - on the socket. In other words, you should choose a method of how to mint cast-iron pipes in this case. In practice, two options are used, which we will consider.

Method 1: grouting

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The installation of a resin sealant is carried out: the resin bundle is tamped into the hole of the socket and pipe at 2/3 of the depth. When the first ring of rope is formed, the end of the bundle is overlapped on top of the ring to prevent it from penetrating into the pipe.
2. Pouring cement content.

Cement grade 300-400 is mixed with water in a ratio of 9 to 1. The space free from the tourniquet (1/3 of the volume) in the socket is poured with a cement composition. The solution is minted as tightly as possible by caulking with a hammer until the caulking begins to bounce off the cement sealant. For a better setting of the cement, it is covered with a moistened cloth.

Tip: Broadened chasing and caulking will help increase productivity, which speeds up the procedure by as much as 30%. When performing work in winter, cement is kneaded in hot water, and after sealing the joints with it, mandatory insulation is carried out.

Method 2: embedding with asbestos cement

This procedure has some differences:

• in dry form, asbestos fiber and cement are kneaded, respectively, 1 to 2;
• immediately before use, the dry mixture is poured with water, the latter should be 10-12% of the total volume of the mixture.

The very procedure of chasing is performed by analogy with the first method.

That's all the subtleties of such a laborious process called chasing / chasing. Naturally, the best results in work can be achieved when professionals get down to business. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists. And then you definitely won’t have to redo everything, getting rid of old flaws.

When it is necessary to repair any part of the sewer pipeline in an apartment, it is often necessary to disconnect the pipes. In a situation where a section needs to be replaced, it is important to first inspect it to determine the type of connection. Difficulty arises with pipes located underground, because they are processed by special. anti-separation compound. In this case, a gas cutter is used to speed up the separation process. It is known that caulking of cast iron pipes represents a very important stage of repair work and has its own technology for the correct execution. Rules should not be ignored when necessary change cast iron pipe.

How to chisel cast iron pipe?

1. Initially, it is required to gently tap the surface of the bell with a hammer, trying not to damage it. Otherwise, you will need to completely change the riser.
2. When the movement of the bell becomes free, you can carry out dismantling of cast iron pipes. It is produced like this:
- the bell should be slightly swung to the sides;
- using a screwdriver, pry a little and pull the rope;
- fix the rope using pliers;
- slowly pull the rope without stopping swing the pipe;
- the cable should be pulled out, having previously hooked it.
3. If the bell remains motionless as a result of the tapping procedure, the caulking was carried out by filling with sulfur. In this case, it should be burned out in the following way:
- using a soldering iron or an ordinary burner, it is necessary to heat the pipe around the circumference;
- during heating, continue tapping the pipe;
- when the bell starts to move, it must be swung using an adjustable wrench.
Work must be done with a respirator.
4. The released socket should be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. It is important to clean the bell seat very carefully, as this is where the sealing rubber will need to be placed.
5. Lubricate the rubber sealing ring with lubricant and place it in the socket.
6. Insert a new part into the seal.

quality replacement of cast iron pipes carried out through the involvement of a competent specialist. He will be able to quickly replace the cast-iron pipe without risking damage to the entire pipeline. The master will also help remove cast iron pipe, replace it with a product made of another material.

Cast iron is a heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant, durable material that can withstand heavy loads. Its main purpose is the device of sewer and water communication. But you should not completely pin your hopes on the cast-iron sewer, since it also has disadvantages, they need special care and repair. In this article, we will look at how to caulk cast-iron pipes with your own hands.

In order to exclude depressurization of individual sections of communications, it is necessary to repair the internal pipes in a timely manner and take preventive measures, removing lime deposits, rust and other organic growths from their surface.

Chasing

The essence of the preparatory work is to inspect and determine the welded places. There are two methods for gluing cast iron pipe parts: gluing the elements with a welding seam and pouring with a mortar. Bonding of parts with a special solution is used if it is necessary to combine pipes of various configurations and diameters. And with a welding seam, fan pipes of the same diameter are mainly glued together. After a visual inspection of the sewer and determining the complexity of the work, you can proceed to the next stage - dismantling.

Most often, over the years, pipes grow together so strongly that it is very difficult to disassemble the sewer. In this case, you need a gas cutter, with which you can disconnect the spliced ​​sections in a short period of time and without effort.

Before proceeding with the caulking of pipes, it is necessary to turn off the water supply. If possible, it is necessary to shut off the water supply system.

The designated section of the pipe, which is to be replaced, is sawn off by a grinder. When sawing damaged areas, strong blows should not be made in order to prevent the formation of cracks in subsequent sections.
After the removal of damaged sections of the pipe is completed, they proceed to install a new pipe with a certain margin for its expansion.

The edges of the pipe, which are inserted into the pipe, are fixed together with a resin strand using a caulk.

Pipe branch

This process is very complex and differs markedly from the previous method. This is argued by the fact that this area is risky and if the caulking is carried out incorrectly, then the riser can be split along the drop line.

Before you start disassembling the pipe, you need to take a hammer and tap on the entire surface of the socket. When tapping, you can determine the method of embossing.

If the bell easily gives in and staggers, then it was minted with a rope and a camboca. In this case, you will need an ordinary screwdriver and pliers. When loosening, a rope should appear, which must be hooked with a screwdriver and taken out to the surface. To make it easier to pull out the rope, it must be grabbed with pliers at the same time, without ceasing to loosen the socket.

Caulking a cast-iron pipe with sulfur eliminates deformation and loosening, therefore, not a hammer or other percussion instrument will help with this. In this case, you will need a blowtorch or a gas burner to burn the sulfur seam. From a high temperature, sulfur will begin to dry out and fall off. After the sulfur has crumbled, take a hammer and follow the same procedure as described in the previous method of caulking a pipe with a rope.

Perform tapping until the bell starts to move, so that it is convenient to loosen the bell, take an adjustable wrench and begin to carry out oscillatory movements from side to side, pulling it towards you. The loosened socket is taken out with a chisel and cleaned.

The saddle should be flat without distortions so that the sealing gum lies tightly to the surface.

The surface of the gum is coated with silicone and inserted into the tee of the bell. At this stage, the caulking and caulking of the cast-iron pipe is completed.

Video

We bring to your attention a video dedicated to chasing pipes.