How to nail an imitation of a bar. Sheathing a house with imitation timber

Installation of a false beam imitating the surface of a log wall allows you to create an attractive facade surface. Being engaged in the installation of the material, it is important to correctly perform all the steps included in the technological process, including fastening the imitation of the beam, which is performed in several ways. You can read about how to sheathe a house with a false beam without violating the established technology in the article.

Preliminaries

Proper preparation is essential for every job. It consists in the following processes preceding the main work:

calculation and purchase of necessary materials;
preparation of purchased materials;
preparation of tools that will be needed in the work.

Consider what preparatory steps will help to successfully carry out the sheathing of the building with an imitation of a beam with your own hands.

We calculate the required material

To calculate the material for the upcoming work, you need to know what technology will be used. The facade is sheathed with false timber with or without preliminary insulation. In the first case, in addition to facing panels, you will need:

windproof film;
vapor barrier membrane;
basalt insulation in mats (mineral wool);
timber for the base crate (50x50);
timber (rail) for the counter-lattice (50x30);
fasteners for the main crate (U-shaped hangers for plasterboard profiles are suitable);
wood screws.

If insulation is not included in the plans, we exclude wind protection and vapor barrier, insulation and a rail for the counter-lattice from the list.

The materials from the first three items on the list are calculated as follows: the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls, minus windows and doors, plus 10%. Lumber for the base crate is calculated taking into account the guide step of 60 cm (corresponding to the width of the insulation mats). For a counter-lattice, the optimal step of the racks is 50 cm, taking into account additional rails in order to “bypass” door and window openings. Fasteners for the main guides are installed after 70-80 cm, from which it is worth proceeding when calculating their required number.

The calculation of the false beam depends on whether it is made to order (in this case there is less waste) or bought in plates of a certain length. In the second situation, you need to take about 5% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls without openings into reserve.

If untreated panels are purchased, it is necessary to provide for the purchase of primers and targeted impregnations for wood (antifungal, antibacterial, reducing the ability to burn, etc.).

Pre-assembly preparation of false beam

Imitation of timber is made from solid wood and varies in terms of the degree of surface treatment and the quality of raw materials, so it is often necessary to additionally grind the front surface. To avoid this on the wall, it is much more convenient to modify the panels before installation. Given the considerable surface area, it is better to use an electric grinder for these purposes, since grinding by hand will take a lot of time and effort, but will not give the desired quality.

Also, before installation, the panels are treated with various impregnations and a primer. Firstly, it is possible to process the false beam strips from all sides. Secondly, again, it's much more convenient. As a result, after installing the imitation timber, all that remains is to open the finished surface with a stain or varnish.

Cooking tool

To carry out the whole range of works on the installation of a ventilated facade using a false beam as a finishing cladding, you will need the following tools:

electric jigsaw (for sawing wood panels);
water (laser) level for marking the starting horizontal;
screwdriver;
perforator (if the base wall is made of brick or concrete);
yardstick;
square;
a small hammer (if planks are supposed to be fastened with galvanized nails).

Having prepared the necessary tools, you can proceed with the installation of the crate and thermal insulation.

Assembly of the base frame and wall insulation

In order to make the installation of a beam on the facade of the house, or rather its imitation, it is not necessary to insulate the walls. However, it is better and more expedient to take care of thermal insulation right away, even if the walls do not seem too cold. As practice shows, insulation is never superfluous, and thermal insulation made from the inside is less effective and takes up useful living space, so we will consider how to sheathe a building with a false beam with preliminary insulation.

Beam imitation panels are always installed only horizontally. Therefore, the laths of the counter-lattice must have a vertical direction, and the bars of the base crate must have a horizontal direction.

On a note. The counter-lattice is needed so that there is sufficient space between the insulation and the skin for ventilation, which prevents the accumulation of condensate. This is the essence of the definition of "ventilated facade".

Let's move on to practice and consider the sequence of work operations using the example of one of the walls of the building.

We close the surface of the base wall with a vapor barrier membrane. It is needed in order to protect the basalt insulation from steam penetrating from inside the house.
We install pins at the corners of the wall, between which, along a plumb line or level, we stretch vertically the threads corresponding to the outer surface of the main bars.
According to the threads, we install the bars with a step corresponding to the width of the insulation mats (usually 60 cm).
We lay basalt thermal insulation, make sure that there are as few holes as possible between the mats, which are cold bridges.
The next step is the windscreen. We roll the canvas from top to bottom, attach it with a stapler to the bars. The next canvas overlaps the previous one by at least 15 cm.
On top of the basic horizontal bars, we install the slats of the counter-lattice, attracting them to the guides with hardened (black) self-tapping wood screws. The length of the self-tapping screws is 55-60 mm with a rail thickness of 30 mm.

We create the same design on the remaining walls, if possible, tying (fixing with screws) between the bars of the base crate, after which we proceed to the main stage - the installation of the imitation of the bar.

Do-it-yourself installation of a false beam

Before proceeding with the installation of wooden cladding panels, let's figure out the best way to fix the planks. There are three options:

wood screws;
special nails;
kleimers.

Which option to choose? Let's look at each of them.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is the fastest, but in order for the wood not to crack, it is advisable to drill a hole for each screw, corresponding in diameter to the thickness of the self-tapping screw. The disadvantage of this method is the rigid attraction of the plank to the crate, which prevents slight displacement of the material when the temperature changes. This leads to tension in the wood, which can cause premature damage (cracking).

Nails (you need special ones with anti-corrosion galvanization) allow displacements, as they have a smooth surface. But to work with them, you need a skill, without which not everyone will be able to correctly hammer small nails at the right angle, without damaging the face of the panel.

Advice. If you nevertheless chose nails as a panel fixer, in order to “finish them off” when the hat is almost in, use a test as a guide. The tip of the punch should be slightly larger than the diameter of the nail head.

Kleimers are special brackets that grab the panel with one side, while the other is attracted by self-tapping screws to the guide rail. This is the most convenient way to mount the imitation timber. Installation in this way involves the purchase of kleimers, which incurs additional costs - this is a minus.

Having decided on the appropriate method of fixing the panels, you can proceed to their direct installation, which occurs in this sequence.

With the help of a laser (water level), a horizontal line is beaten off along the perimeter of the building at the level of the top of the basement. This line will match the bottom edge of the first panel from the bottom.
The first wooden imitation timber plate is installed with the spike down and fixed on both sides (top and bottom).
The second and subsequent panels are inserted with a spike into the groove of the previous bar and are fixed only from above (to each vertical rail).
The topmost panel in most cases does not fully fit across the entire width. To close the top of the wall, you have to cut the bar along according to the width of the open space, for which you need a jigsaw.
In the corners of the building, in order for the joining to be inconspicuous and not conspicuous, it is better to cut the mutually adjoining planks of adjacent walls at an angle of 45˚. It is possible to impose evenly cut edges on the ends of the planks installed on the adjacent wall.
If the length of the panel is not enough for the width of the wall, you need to connect the joining strips on a vertical rail, fixing the edge of each of them. To make the junction inconspicuous, it is better to cut the joining ends at an angle.

The corner joints of the timber imitation panels, the edge sections near the openings can be closed with special trim, which are attached over the wooden cladding with the same self-tapping screws or nails.

False timber, originally intended for facade cladding, has now become widely used for interior decoration. The technology of its installation inside the building does not differ much from the facade installation, but still has a number of nuances that you can find out by watching this video.

Do-it-yourself installation of imitation timber is completed. It remains to decorate the surface to your liking and enjoy the result of the work done.

Imitation of timber is one of the most popular materials for exterior and interior decoration. It has not only an attractive appearance, but also excellent environmental qualities. Homeowners are attracted by its affordable price and easy installation.

Best upholstery material

Imitation timber is a profiled sheathing board with beveled edges that resembles a real timber. For its manufacture, mainly coniferous woods, larch and cedar are used.

False timber is a worthy competitor to such a popular material for sheathing as lining. He has a number of positive qualities. Firstly, the pseudo-beam is absolutely natural and environmentally friendly, therefore it does not pose any threat to human health. Secondly, its operation can last for decades, of course, subject to proper installation and subsequent maintenance. Imitation of timber is resistant to deformation and cracking. Thirdly, due to the special properties of wood, heat and sound insulation of the room is provided. In winter, the house retains heat better, and in summer it is cooler.

Larch timber imitation is the best solution for interior and exterior wall decoration. The material is resistant to decay, is not afraid of moisture and has a beautiful texture and color. Ease of installation is facilitated by low weight and the presence of a thorn-groove mounting system. You can buy false timber from larch by clicking on the link.

The disadvantage is the fire hazard and the need for periodic maintenance, namely the treatment with antiseptics and varnishes.

Preparing for installation

First of all, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material that will be required to finish the room. This is fairly easy to do once you know the size of the panels you plan to use and the surface area to be finished. The most popular board width is 135 mm, and the length varies from 3 to 6 meters. Choose the length so that there are as few joints as possible. When calculating the area of the board, do not forget to subtract the dimensions of the groove.

When measuring the wall area, subtract the area of windows and doors, as well as areas covered with tiles or decorative stone.

To determine how much timber you need, divide the area of the walls by the area of one panel. But keep in mind that the resulting number assumes that all the boards will be used without a trace. This happens very rarely, so 5-10% should be added to the result as an error.

After purchasing the material, it must be taken to the place of work about a week before the start of installation. In seven days, the tree acclimatizes and adapts to the humidity of the environment. If this is not done, the panels may be deformed during operation.

Then the pseudo-beam is treated with an antiseptic. Before installation, this is easier to do, since then the locks and grooves will no longer be available. At the same stage, you can cover the panels with a layer of paintwork.

It is necessary to prepare not only the material for cladding, but also the walls. They need to be aligned to make it easier to mount the crate. If the house is wooden, the walls are treated with an antiseptic, after removing the paint. Using a spatula and a metal brush, clean the dirt.

After preparation, you can proceed with the installation of imitation timber.

Stages of work

The first step is to fix the waterproofing. Glassine or other similar material is fixed to the wall with aluminum tape or any other suitable fastener. The edges are overlapped.

From above, the waterproofing is pressed by a crate of dried square-section timber. The intervals between the posts must correspond to the width of the insulation sheets.

The next step is thermal insulation. In the intervals between the bars of the crate, a layer of insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool or any other material) is laid. This prevents condensation from building up inside the wall and helps keep the room dry.

A second layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulation, which is attached in the same way as the previous one.

For interior decoration, it is not necessary to use insulation and vapor barrier. In this case, the imitation of the beam is attached directly to the grate. After completing all the preparatory work and acclimatizing the material, you can proceed directly to the cladding.

The installation of the boards starts from the bottom. The first is fixed exactly according to the level, and all subsequent ones are aligned along it. The panels must be laid out so that the groove is on top - this prevents the accumulation of moisture. To prevent the sheathing from warping, gaps of 1-3 mm should be left between the boards.

Types of fasteners to simulate timber

To fasten the imitation of the beam, nails, self-tapping screws and kleimers are used. Nailing is the easiest way. The panels are nailed to the lathing bars. Nails must be taken galvanized, their length must be no less than the thickness of the panel plus half the thickness of the lathing bar. The solution is simple, but unaesthetic, as hats are visible. To improve the appearance of the lining, you can use finishing nails with miniature hats.

Screws and self-tapping screws will help provide a secret fastening. They are screwed into the spike at an angle of 45 degrees or into the front part, where holes are pre-drilled. Then they will need to be masked.

Stamped steel clamps are mounted on the crate, and boards are already hung on them. It is recommended to use kleimers for interior decoration.

About the advantages of timber imitation

Imitation of a bar has the following advantages.

Firstly, the material does not crack, and the integrity of the fibers is not violated, that is, you can not be afraid that any deformations may occur.
Secondly, the imitation of timber will retain its appearance for many years.
Thirdly, the imitation of a bar is absolutely not afraid of sudden temperature changes.
Fourthly, the described material is not at all afraid of corrosion, its surface is not affected by microorganisms.
Fifthly, it is worth noting that the imitation of timber is a very durable and reliable material.
Sixthly, it is very simple to mount the imitation of timber.
Seventh, it is worth noting that the material itself is not expensive.
Eighth, imitation of a bar belongs to environmentally friendly materials. It has the ability to saturate the air with antioxidants, which has a positive effect on health. This is especially helpful for people who suffer from asthma.
Ninth, the material weighs very little, which is also of great importance.
Tenth, the finished finish looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing.

Wall decoration with imitation of timber is simple. Especially if a person is already familiar with the construction business. Before proceeding with the installation, it is advisable to transport the goods to the territory where the installation process will be carried out. This is necessary in order for the wood to acquire the moisture that is typical for the conditions of the area.

One of the most beautiful, aesthetic and practical materials is wood. Recently, home decoration with imitation timber has become very popular.

With its help, the building is clad both outside and inside, while flat or rounded elements can be used.

For sheathing the house inside or outside, wooden panels are used, having different thicknesses.

After finishing with such material, people get the impression that the house is completely made of timber; it can be used to clad houses made of various building materials.

The main advantages of finishing a house with imitation timber:

this material has high thermal insulation characteristics, so you not only decorate, but also insulate the facade;
it is a natural material, it is environmentally friendly and safe for human health, so it can be safely used inside the house;
the material is relatively cheap and with its help any building can be made to look like a wooden house;
used for finishing buildings made of a variety of building materials;
easy and simple to install;
has a long service life;
improves the soundproofing characteristics of the house;
has a small weight.

Among the disadvantages of imitation timber, the following should be noted:

since it is a wooden material, it has a high fire hazard; to reduce it, the panels are treated with flame retardants;
if the integrity of the structure is violated, then the material may begin to rot and deform, therefore, the house must be constantly monitored and defects that have appeared immediately eliminated;
periodically it is necessary to treat the surface with antiseptics and open it with varnish. If high-quality materials are used, then such processing should be done every 5-8 years;
if rare wood species are used, then the price of such products will be high.

Mounting technology

Panels that imitate timber have special locking joints, so their installation is simple and quick, and any home master will be able to cope with this task.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

calculated number of panels;
timber with a section of 50x50 mm, which is used to create a crate;
beam section 25x50 mm for the counter-lattice;
suspensions;
jigsaw;
hammer;
measuring instruments;
self-tapping screws;
kleimers, if the installation is carried out inside the building.

First, preparatory work is carried out, during which the surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and dust.

After that, the installation of a wooden crate is carried out, for which bars with a section of 50x50 or 25x50mm can be used, it all depends on the thickness of the insulation. If the wall is flat, then the crate can be mounted directly on it, in other cases, the installation is carried out using suspensions.

On flat wooden walls, the crate is fastened with self-tapping screws, in other cases, its installation is carried out using dowels.

A vapor barrier of the walls is necessarily carried out; for this, a special film is attached under the crate. They do this with an overlap, which should be 10-15 cm, and with the help of adhesive tape all joints are well glued.

Facade finishing

If the imitation of timber is mounted on the facade of the building, then heat-insulating material must be laid. For this, both rolled and matte materials are suitable.

Depending on the purpose of the building and the climatic zone in which it is located, the thickness of the insulation may be different, but usually it is 50-100 mm. Heat-insulating material is laid between the crate on the vapor barrier.

Outside, the insulation must be protected with a wind-moisture protective membrane and all its joints are again glued with adhesive tape.

After laying the moisture-proof film, it is necessary to install a counter-lattice on it, for this, bars with a section of 25x50 mm are used, it is needed to create normal ventilation of the sheathing material.

Some masters do not make a counter-lattice due to the fact that there are ventilation recesses on the panels, but they may not be enough to ensure normal ventilation, so the wooden elements begin to rot and collapse.

Now you can proceed to the installation of panels, work starts from the bottom and moves up. The upper edge of the panel is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, after which the groove of the next panel is put on the spike of the previous one and it is fixed again with self-tapping screws.

If it becomes necessary to screw the panel through, then the head of the screw is slightly recessed, after which it is covered with a mixture of varnish and sawdust, and when the composition dries, this place is treated with sandpaper.

If you purchased unpainted panels, then they must be treated with an antiseptic and varnish, it is better to do this before installation, since then it will be more difficult to paint over the joints.

Ways of fastening panels and creating joints, outside

Depending on the width and thickness of the panels used, their fastening can be done in several ways:

anodized self-tapping screws through the panel itself, but after that it will be necessary to mask their hats with wooden inserts or putty;
at an angle of 45 degrees into the spike of the panel, so that the material does not crack, it is recommended to make a hole first;
with nails, in this case the panel will be able to move a little, and will not crack. The length of the nail or self-tapping screw should be such that it can enter the crate for 2/3 of its length;
using clamps, but this method is suitable for panels of small thickness, so it is usually used indoors.

There are several ways to join boards in the corners:

by washing them down at an angle of 45 degrees;
using a decorative wooden block, it must be purchased separately;
with the help of boards interconnected by the letter "G".

If it becomes necessary to join the panels in length, then this can be done through a plank, which is equal in thickness to the skin or by washing down the edges at an angle of 45 degrees.

After the installation work is completed, the imitation of the timber is covered with a deep penetration antiseptic, allowed to dry, and then a decorative and protective coating of the desired shade is applied and everything is varnished, waxed or painted.

When carrying out interior decoration, two layers of paint and varnish coating are sufficient, on the outside they need three.

How to mount indoors

The peculiarity of these works is that the use of insulation is optional, so you can take thinner bars or a galvanized profile.

If the walls of the room are even, then the imitation of a beam can be mounted without a crate, so you can save free space.

If the installation is carried out in a heated room, then the panels can be painted no earlier than a month after their installation, it takes time for them to dry out, after which small cracks will not form on the surface.

fasteners

Since panels with a thickness of 16-21 cm are used indoors, their fastening can be done using clamps or self-tapping screws.

Reinforced climber

These are special metal elements in the form of a bracket that allow you to securely fasten the panels to the crate, while remaining invisible, the size of the kleimers (number) is selected taking into account the thickness of the rear groove of the panels.

Reinforced kleimer is suitable for fastening imitation timber both indoors and when cladding the facade.

self-tapping screws

In addition, imitation timber can be fastened with galvanized screws or self-tapping screws, as well as building, screw or finishing nails.

Output

If you want to transform your home, make it beautiful and unique, while spending little money, carry out its lining.

With the correct installation of imitation timber, you will get an excellent result that will delight you for many years and all this will be done by yourself.

Useful video

Sheathing the house with an imitation of timber in the video below:

In contact with

Imitation of a bar is a finishing material made of natural wood that will delight you with its appearance for a long time, but only if two conditions are met: if you purchase high-quality material and properly mount it to the walls.

You can always buy quality material in our company. And in this article we will look at how to attach an imitation of timber to the walls outside and inside.

A bit of theory: basic rules

In order for the cladding to look beautiful, the fastening of the imitation timber must meet the following requirements:

first of all - of course, reliability, because otherwise the joy of beautiful wall decoration will not last as long as we would like;
tight fit of the boards to each other and the creation of a continuous canvas, under which dirt and moisture will not penetrate;
aesthetics: the appearance of the cladding should be as natural as possible; for this, all joints are carefully masked.

Well, now that we know the basic requirements, let's see how to properly fix the imitation of a beam and how it is better to do it.

How to properly fix the crate and why is it needed at all?

Before fixing the imitation of timber outside or inside the building, it is not necessary to specially prepare the walls. You can immediately mount the crate on them - slats, the distance between which is 60 - 80 cm. If the imitation of the beam is located in the horizontal direction, the slats are mounted vertically, and vice versa: with a vertical arrangement of the cladding, the crate should run in a horizontal direction.

What is the crate for? Under the imitation of the timber, air must circulate freely. Otherwise, the tree will begin to rot. The crate just allows you to leave such free space.

How to fix the imitation of timber on the crate?

Fastening boards imitation timber is usually carried out in a horizontal direction. At the same time, some rules are observed:

Imitation of timber cannot be fastened closely to the top and bottom of the wall. A minimum gap of 2 cm must be left - this will allow air to circulate freely.
With horizontal fastening, it is better to pass row by row the entire perimeter of the room. If you finish each wall in turn, then it will not be so convenient, it will take more time. You will spend more material.
Boards are fastened with a groove down.

What is the best way to fasten an imitation of a beam?

There are three main ways to attach boards to a crate:

With the help of clamps. This method strongly resembles the one used during the installation of plastic lining. Special fasteners are used, which are located inside the groove and are completely invisible from the outside.
With the help of self-tapping screws. This method can be recommended if you are thinking about how to fix the imitation of timber from the outside. Hats of self-tapping screws can not be masked. And you can deepen them and cover with wooden plugs or putty.
Using self-tapping screws and nails "flush" inside the groove. In this case, nails and self-tapping screws are located at an angle of 45⁰ and are closed with a spike of the next element.

Before starting work, a person must decide how to fix the imitation of a beam to the surface of a wall or ceiling. He chooses the method of fastening based on his preferences for a particular type of fastener. Initially, it should be remembered that a properly executed crate allows you to create an ideal finish that will last a long time.

Basic principles

Fastening the imitation timber to the wall or ceiling provides a reliable design that prevents the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays, rain and wind on the main facade (in the case of external wall cladding). The installation of internal surfaces is more of a decorative function than a protective one.
The main requirements are to create maximum proximity to natural material and to comply with all the required conditions when performing work. One of them can be called the masking of all fastener nodes without compromising the strength of the structure.

Mounting methods

Before mounting the block house on the facade of the house, surface leveling is required. Therefore, when choosing the type of fasteners, the material from which the crate is made should be taken into account. Naturally, if a metal profile was used in its design, then the use of nails is excluded.
There are many ways to attach false panels to the wall outside the house:

Self-tapping screws, which are screwed at an angle of 45 degrees through a spike on an imitation of a bar. In this position, it will close with the next board and will be invisible in the future.
Self-tapping screws screwed through the front of the board to the maximum possible depth. His hat will hide under the wood fibers and will not be visible.

It's important to know

The crate must be made of very durable material. The self-tapping screw is screwed into it, cutting through the surface of the finishing board with its cap.

Nails driven through a spike. The disadvantage of using this hardware is as follows. There is an option for cracking the panel while driving a nail into it.
Mounting with kleimers is one of the most effective options for attaching a block house to the facade of a house. Most experts claim that the imitation of a beam is correctly fastened with the help of these fasteners.

Kleimers - what is it?

The concept of clamps means a fastening in the form of a steel bracket used for mounting an imitation of timber, eurolining or a block house. The material from which they are made is iron with a galvanized surface that protects the product from moisture. Kleimers must be mounted on the profile of the crate using self-tapping screws.

Use advantage

Regardless of the fact that the kleimer is more expensive than self-tapping screws and nails, it is recommended to use it to fix the imitation of the timber. Mounting boards using this fastener provides a number of advantages:

reduces the time spent on work;
the outer side of the panel is not subject to possible damage (cracks and chips from self-tapping screws or nails);
fixing with kleimers is quite simple, all work can be done by hand;
the material from which they are made is not subject to corrosion, which allows us to talk about reliability;
a wide range of fasteners of different sizes.

When choosing clamps in a hardware store, you should pay attention to some of the nuances:

metal strength;
integrity of the galvanized coating;
conformity of the sizes of products in one party.

Material calculation

It is necessary to understand that the high-quality sheathing of a house with imitation of a bar depends on how and what the boards are fixed with. Proper finishing requires the right amount of fasteners. Before starting work, it is recommended to purchase kleimers in the quantity required for this. You can make the calculation in two ways.

The first way to calculate

For an approximate calculation, let's take the following values: finishing 1 m2 requires 20 kleimers. The total amount can be calculated knowing the dimensions of the surface to be sheathed (we multiply this value by the total area of \u200b\u200bthe facade and get the value we need).

The second way to calculate

The method of calculating the material is used if the facade of the house has a large number of decorative ledges. It uses the calculation of the fastener pitch and takes into account the specific installation location of the block house:

straight facade, with a distance between the profile of the lathing of 40 - 50 cm - 4 pieces are consumed;
roof edges with a distance of 35 cm - 5 pieces;
finishing corners with a step of 25 cm - 6 pieces.

In addition to the clamps themselves, one should take into account the purchase of additional elements for their fastening (self-tapping screws, nails). Their calculation can be made starting from such a scheme: 2 - 3 self-tapping screws are required for 1 clamp.

Technology for fastening imitation timber

Finishing the facade with an imitation of timber using kleimers is a simple process, but there are some subtleties in it. This is how it is recommended to properly fix the block house.

the starting board is inserted into the bracket with the groove down;
Clamps are fixed with 2 - 3 self-tapping screws. If the crate is made of wooden beams, you can use nails;
the next board is inserted into the bottom one, the groove is connected to the ridge;
fixed with the next clamp;
the last two steps are performed until the finishing is completed. The step between the fasteners is 45 - 50 cm.

Advice from the "facade"

Important! The first board should be carefully checked by the building level. The whole appearance of the work performed depends on how it will be located.

Important nuances

When buying imitation timber and fastening material, make sure that it is of appropriate quality;
finishing the joints of the boards with sealants is not allowed. To prevent moisture leakage, it will be correct to use a plastic film under the finish coating;
after the installation of the imitation timber is completed, it is recommended to treat it with wax or special antiseptics. This will create a high-quality facade that is resistant to various negative influences.

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