How to make a roof in the attic. Phased construction of a mansard roof

The cost of building a roof is 25-35% of the cost of building the entire house, and the cost of work is 50-80% of the price of materials, so if you build a mansard roof with your own hands, then the savings can be 15% of the total estimate.

Mansard refers to any roof under which there are rooms suitable for habitation in height (attic, or attic floor).

The device of a mansard roof is a complex and painstaking work.

In industrial construction, the installation of the roof is carried out when the drawings display each node, the fastenings of the parts and the parts themselves with the dimensions taken out.

Builders do not think about the roof device, about whether the load is calculated correctly, their task is to build a frame by sawing out templates of parts and fastening them together, while the system for fixing the roof elements is also indicated.

To figure out how to make a mansard roof, you will have to study the video, photo and master the theoretical part.

Comfortable ceiling height for living quarters from 2.5 m and above. The walls of the attic floor are most often roof slopes, so it is necessary to ensure their thermal insulation.

The top of the mansard roof is a ridge, a beam that lies parallel to the plane of the floor of the house, and is the highest point of the roof. The ribs of the roof are called rafters.

Ridge (upper) rafters descend from the ridge. Attic floor beams connect the bases of the left and right ridge rafters of the same roof section.

Racks (bars with a section of 100x100) are fixed on the interfloor ceiling at a right angle at a distance of 0.8-1.5 meters from the outer wall.

The higher the racks and the closer they are placed to the walls of the house, the larger the attic living space will be.

The side (lower) rafters go from the attachment point of the attic beam to the Mauerlat. Each section of the mansard roof consists of two ridge rafters and two side rafters on each side.

The system of the rafters of the same name forms a slope - ridge or side.

The most used version of the mansard roof is a broken gable roof. In this case, the ridge and side rafters form an obtuse angle at the connection points.

If they lie on the same straight line, then outwardly it looks like a classic gable roof.

When calculating the slope of the slope, the materials of the future roof and climatic conditions are taken into account, it can range from 15 to 45 degrees. The greater the slope, the less snow will linger.

In regions with little snow, the sloping roof of a house can be quite flat.

The standard slope of the slopes is 30-35 degrees.

Preparatory work

A mansard-type roof is planned even before laying the floor between the first and attic floors.

If you use wooden beams as a floor, then you need to provide for the cross section of the beam and the distance between the beams so that they can withstand the permissible load for a residential second floor.

Usually these are beams with a cross section of 150 cm and above with a length of 6 m. Such beams are located at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other.

The system is such that the longer the beam, the more load it will experience in the middle. The pressure will be created by the floor of the attic floor itself, the furniture and, in fact, the residents.

Even if the attic is planned for unfurnished lounges, floor beams with a cross section of less than 120 cm, laid at a distance of 100 cm from each other, are undesirable.

A reliable device will provide the right materials for the mansard roof.

The heavier the roofing materials will be, and the longer the frame of the sloping roof, the larger the cross section is needed for the timber from which the frame can be built.

Usually, sections 60x120, 60x100 cm are used.

In many photos, there is no reinforcing belt device along the external load-bearing walls when a sloping roof is planned.

The weight distribution system is such that the entire weight of the roof rests on the floor beams, and they, in turn, transfer this and their weight to the walls.

The gable roof of a one-story building is much lighter than a broken mansard, so a mauerlat (wooden sheathing along the perimeter of the walls below the floor beams) is quite enough.

If the walls are made of timber or brick, then the Mauerlat will make sure that the mansard roof device is reliable. It is important at the stage of building walls to provide a device for fixing the Mauerlat.

The system must be reliable. In the case when a hollow cinder block or porous foam concrete is used as a material for the walls, it is difficult to secure the Mauerlat to the wall.

A good solution would be a reinforcing concrete belt, in which, at the level of pouring, rods are placed to install the Mauerlat.

It is placed on a substrate of roofing material or other insulating material and aligned with the inner edge of the wall.

Before fixing, make sure that the bars forming the Mauerlat lie strictly parallel. Even a deviation of 2-3 cm will cause the slope to sag.

If the house is up to 6 meters wide (the maximum allowable size of an unsupported interfloor beam), then the floor beam rests on the Mauerlat with both edges.

If the width of the house is more than 6 meters and the house has load-bearing walls perpendicular to the floor beams, then the floors are installed according to the following system: one edge of the beam is attached to the Mauerlat, and the second to the internal load-bearing wall, on which the Mauerlat is already installed.

In continuation of this line, the next beam is laid from the inner wall to the opposite outer Mauerlat. The gap between the beams should be at least 3-4 cm.

If the preliminary work is done correctly, then you have received a completely finished floor between the first and attic floors. Now it's time to draw the future frame.

Start studying the theory with a photo of a sloping roof and with a video that shows the installation of a mansard roof.

Draw the house from the front side, the racks on the left and right, bring out the rafters and calculate the angles of inclination. Increase or decrease the height of the posts to change the slope of the slope.

Calculate the length of the rafters (the cosine of the angle of inclination multiplied by the distance from the rack to the projection of the ridge - for the ridge slope, and the cosine of the angle of inclination of the side slope, multiplied by the distance from the Mauerlat to the rack - for the side rafters).

Watch a video of various options for attaching bars to each other. High-quality fastening will provide a reliable frame.

If climatic conditions overload the high sloping roof with winds, and the width of the house does not allow much space for unused space behind the racks, then you can reduce the height of the racks and, after construction is completed, install built-in wardrobes around the entire perimeter of the side walls of the attic.

Frame assembly procedure

Make the roof frame only from high-quality wood. The main sign of a "stale" tree is a dark color.

If you can’t buy wood dried in a drying chamber, then get it raw, but still at the stage of building walls.

Fresh wood cannot be used for the frame - under the influence of loads, it will lose its shape and bend.

Raw timber can be dried naturally in one and a half to two months.

To do this, we lay it out clearly in level with a distance between the bars of up to 5 cm. No two bars should touch. Every 75-100 cm, the beam should rest on a flat surface.

As support points, you can use a cinder block laid out on a flat area, but in no case can you use another beam intended for the frame.

In sunny and warm weather, the bars dry naturally, and in rainy weather they need to be covered. The manufacture of the frame is allowed only from completely dried wood.

Start the installation by making sure that even wooden beams are selected for the racks and rafters and that there are no cracks or knots in them.

Saw-cut wooden blanks of the same type must be treated with a fire-fighting agent and a mixture that prevents the formation of fungus.

Processing should be done twice with an interval of 1-2 days. Installation can begin when the tree has dried after the treatments.

The procedure for assembling the frame step by step:

• Rack installation. On top of the floor beams, we put 5-6 boards, 5 cm thick, without fixing. They form a floor on which you can safely move. Beams of the same size are installed on the floors according to the level. First put extreme. Be sure to make sure that the opposite distances between the racks are equal. Then a cord is stretched between the extreme bars. It performs the function of the level at which all others are set. A harness is placed on top of the racks and fixed. Now we have a rectangle in which all other supports are mounted. To reduce the precariousness of the design of the rack, it is necessary to unfasten it with jibs to the floor beams. It is the racks that are the weakest point in the frame system, so we will pay special attention to fixing them. The rack with the floor beam must be fixed with a construction bracket of size 12-14. When all the racks are installed, wedge them with an overlap using a beam with a section of 50-60 cm. It is worth additionally fastening them on the outside with each other using an unedged board;
• Installation of the upper slopes (gable roof). At the top, the rafters are fastened together with brackets. The ridge rafter rests on the strapping of the racks and is fixed to the beam of the attic floor. The installation of the upper triangle of the attic must be carried out only on the ground and the fully finished structure should be raised. The triangle is laid on the racks and attached to them with brackets. As soon as the installation of the second triangle is completed, it is necessary to connect them in several places to each other. When all the structures are exposed, you can fix them with a crate;
• At the top of each side rafter, a groove 3-4 cm deep is cut out, and the racks are tied into it. The angle of the groove is equal to the angle of inclination of the slope. A groove is also made at the bottom of the side rafter for installing it on the Mauerlat. Due to these two grooves, the unloaded rafter can stand without fixation. Before applying the load that the crate will carry, you need to fix the side rafter with a bracket to the strapping and to the Mauerlat. Additional fixation should be carried out with self-tapping screws, twisted at the attachment points of the rafters, at an angle;
• The crate - edged or unedged board or OSB board - is fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws. The edges of the slopes should be even. The distance between the components of the crate depends on the roof. For slate, a distance of 3-4 cm is allowed, and for shingles, a continuous crate is required;
• It remains to build the gables and insulate the slopes and the broken mansard roof is ready.

Take photos and videos as you go through each step. This will help to understand the errors in case the result obtained does not satisfy you.

To work you will need tools:

• hammers of different sizes;
• screwdriver;
• a circular saw;
• pliers and small carpentry tools.

You will also need consumables:

• staples size 12 or 14;
• wood screws 45-50 cm long for battens and 150 cm long for additional fixation of rafters;
• hydrobarrier;
• construction stapler;
• as insurance - the installer's belt.

It is better to call 2-3 assistants for help (it is really possible to cut the cut yourself on the ground, but the installation of structures at a height cannot be done alone).

Probably the best way to increase the useful area of ​​​​your own house is to replace the gable roof of the house with a mansard. In this way, one, two or even three additional rooms can be purchased without carving out additional space on the site and without getting involved in the very laborious processes of pouring a new foundation and erecting walls. And in order to find out how to make the attic correctly, you need to consider all the stages of its arrangement, starting with calculations and ending with the roofing of the roof and finishing the resulting additional premises.

In order for all work to be successful, first of all, you need to make sure that the existing walls (if the add-on will be built in the old house) are able to withstand the additional load. It will depend on this factor whether it is worth starting such a construction site, and if so, on which design of the mansard roof it would be better to stop.

It should be noted that the load on the load-bearing walls will increase significantly - due to a larger number of rafters, due to the mass of interior decoration of walls and floors, windows and doors, insulation systems, as well as all elements of the interior filling of attic rooms. All these factors indicate that you need to start with choosing the optimal attic design, with calculations, drafting and drawings of the future superstructure.

Types of attic superstructures

According to current building codes, an attic is considered to be a room under a roof that has a height from ceiling to ridge of at least 2500 mm. If this parameter is less than the specified limit, then the room is considered an ordinary attic.

• If the vertical racks that determine the height of the walls of the room are 1500 mm in size, then the attic space can be considered a full-fledged floor.
• A semi-mansard is an attic room in which there are no vertical racks, or if they have a height of 500 to 700 mm.

At the heart of any roof structure are always triangles with their “rigid” structure.

There are several types of attic superstructures, but the most popular of them are high gable and broken structures. Their popularity can be explained by simpler calculations, relatively simple installation work and ease of use. In third place, after gable and broken structures, one can name a shed version of the roof, which is also sometimes used to equip the attic. Unfortunately, this type of superstructure can not be used in every house design, since it requires not only the reconstruction of the roof, but also raising the height of already built walls, which significantly increases the load on them and on the foundation.

If a new house is being built, and a second floor is planned in the form of an attic, then a shed roof option is well suited for this purpose. In addition, it will help save on roofing material.

More complex structures - domed, four-pitched, as well as with various protrusions-consoles arranged in roof slopes (single-level and multi-level), are used extremely rarely and only in exclusive projects, as they have a complex design both in engineering calculations and in installation.

The figure below the numbers shows:

1 - Gable attic.

2 - Broken attic

3 - Single-level console attic

4 - Multi-level attic.

Gable attic

attic space under d with a wuska roof, which is arranged at an angle between the slopes of 80 ÷ 90 degrees on the ridge, it may well be converted into an attic. To create full-fledged living quarters under it, it will be necessary to carry out a number of necessary reconstructions, for example, very often it is not possible without strengthening the attic floor. All these alterations and plus to this - the necessary insulation will certainly “eat up” a significant part of the usable space under the roof, so you should not expect that the rooms in such an attic will be spacious and with high ceilings.

Of course, if the dimensions (length and width) of the house are large enough, and the roof has a significant angle of inclination (45 degrees or even higher), then after the alterations it will be possible to count on a relatively spacious attic room.

broken roof

A room under a sloping mansard roof will be much more spacious and with a fairly high ceiling. Such an attic can be easily divided into two separate rooms.

The interior of the attic, made according to the "broken" type

The sloping roof has four planes of slopes. They are located at different angles - the upper slopes are called ridge, and the lower ones are lateral. They, for the most part, play the role of walls.

This type of mansard roof is somewhat more difficult to design and install, but the result will please you with spacious rooms and a respectable appearance of the house.

One-level console attic

This type of attic has an even more complex design than the previous one, as it implies a displacement of the attic space to one side or the other.

Using this version of the attic device, you can get spacious rooms, much larger in area than under a gable roof.

The design of a single-level mansard roof can repeat not only a gable, but also a shed version - this will depend on how much it is supposed to take the console out of the attic and raise its ceiling.

Layered add-on

A multi-level structure is the most difficult to design and install. In its development and construction, the help of qualified specialists will definitely be needed. The supports for the levels of the attic rooms are different truss systems and ceilings, which are combined with the main one. A multi-level system involves the location of rooms at different levels of the attic, which is why the consoles should be located that way.

Having chosen the most desirable type of attic, it is necessary to determine whether it is possible to arrange it on the old walls of the house, or whether they will have to be strengthened. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out accurate calculations and draw up a project.

Roof truss basics

Most roofs, and the attic in this matter is no exception, have one of two types of truss system, or a combination of them. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, which depend on the location of the load-bearing walls of the building.

Hanging system

The hanging truss system is determined by the fact that it is supported only by two external capital walls located along the length of the building, in which there are no internal capital partitions.

Such a system is used provided that the distance between the main supports is no more than 13 ÷ 14 meters. In any case, this design gives a fairly large load on the walls and foundation of the building.

To reduce the loads in this system, various support structures are used. elements - crossbars, grandmas, struts, puffs, racks and other details.

For example, headstocks, as it were, suspend the entire system to the ridge beam with the help of a puff, and struts pull the overlapping beams to the rafter legs.

For the attic floor in this system, it is necessary to use thick bars, logs or boards that are installed on the edge. Their thickness can be determined from the table given in this publication, based on the distance between the support points.

In order for the floor to be reliable and durable when using a hanging system, you need to carry out accurate calculations, and if it is difficult to do it yourself, then it is better

Layered construction

The layered system is distinguished by the fact that it has supports not only on external main walls, but also on internal partitions, which have a foundation under them.

Therefore, starting the construction of a house in which an attic is planned, you need to think in advance about the location of the internal capital partitions.

For a house with an attic, a layered system is the best option, since the beams overlapping the house will be firmly and securely fixed to the walls and partitions.

When erecting a broken attic roof structure, you can use a combined version of the truss system, that is, use elements of both a hanging and a layered system.

Attic design

When drawing up a project for the construction of any type of attic, it is recommended to consider it in different projections in order to visually determine the location of all supporting elements. Calculating all the parameters of the attic, they must be immediately included in the project.

Based on the calculations made, the places and methods of installation of all structural elements of the truss system are determined. The calculation is also necessary to accurately determine the materials needed for the construction of the attic and their parameters.

Structural elements

Any of the wooden structures of the mansard roof consists of certain elements that are interconnected by connecting nodes that have different configurations. To better understand the design of these connections, it is recommended to draw each of them, and when carrying out installation work, be sure to have this drawing on hand.

The design of a broken mansard roof includes the following components of the system:

• Mauerlat - element, made of a wooden beam and laid on the main walls of the building in its length. It serves to evenly distribute the load from the structure of the truss system to the wall and foundation. Rafter legs are installed and fixed on the Mauerlat. This element is mounted both in a gable and in a broken structure of the attic roof.
• Floor beams, which are laid on the main walls of the building and are the basis for the future floor of the attic and the ceiling of the first floor, as well as for the installation of the entire truss system.
• The rafter leg consists of one straight element - bar or boards in a gable type of roof, or from two parts - in a broken structure. In a broken mansard roof, the upper part fixed to the ridge is called the ridge, and the lower part, which forms the walls of the attic, is called the side. Obviously, the side leg will be installed on a layered basis, while the upper ridge rafter - usually becomes hanging
• For the ridge, a beam or board of a certain thickness is used. Sometimes they do without it, connecting the upper ridge parts of the rafter legs together, which form the ridge.
• Racks are the supporting elements of the system. They support the rafter legs and take some of the load off the walls and foundation of the building. Racks in the future will become a crate for the walls, which will be installed in the process of finishing the attic.
• Bevels or other elements installed diagonally are additional supports that hold the rafters and retaining beams together, making the system more reliable.
• Between the rafter legs for rigidity, bars are installed, called inter-rafter runs - they also give the system rigidity.

Carrying out basic attic calculations

It is quite difficult to develop a mansard roof project on your own, since this process requires certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific architectural calculations. If you make mistakes at the same time, the design of the attic will be unreliable, and besides, with its weight it can damage the walls and foundation of the building.

Everything must be taken into account in the calculations - from the beginning of construction to the finishing of the premises.

However, if a not too complicated design is conceived, then you can try to cope on your own.

Skate Height Calculation

Size usable area attic room depends on the height of the roof ridge, and the latter is determined by the selected slope of the slopes - the smaller this angle, the lower the ceiling and, accordingly, less effective area attic space.

H=L×tgα

H- the height of the skate;

L- ½ the width of the building (if we are talking about a gable symmetrical roof);

α - the angle of inclination of the slope of the truss system.

Scheme - for clarity

As an example, you can substitute the above data into the formula:

Building size 8×10 m, slope angle 30°, tangent 30°= 0.58

H \u003d 8/2 × 0.58 \u003d 2.32 m

The height of the skate will be 2,32 m.

In great detail, with all possible nuances and necessary reference tables, the process and all other parameters associated with it are described from a separate publication dedicated to this particular issue.

The area of ​​​​the interior space of the attic

The technique used to determine the area of ​​​​the attic space will make it possible to calculate the amount of material needed for the construction of the truss system, for insulation and decoration. Especially accurate calculations are important if the attic will be used to equip additional living rooms, as they require special design.

Usually the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room under the roof is calculated, that is, both useful and the so-called "deaf". The living space is limited to the installed racks, which will be the basis for the installation and finishing material of the walls. The zone behind them is considered deaf, that is, most often not used.

The total area is calculated quite simply: the width of the overhangs on both sides is added to the width of the building. The resulting amount is multiplied by the length of the building.

It is also easy to find the area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving space: for this you need to measure the width of the attic space between the racks installed under one and the other slope of the roof, and multiply the resulting parameter by the length of the attic from gable to gable.

Roofing area

To determine in advance the amount of roofing material, it is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof slopes.

If a decision is made to install a broken or even more complex structure, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball sections of the roof. To do this, you need to break it into separate geometric shapes, and then calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach of them and add the results.

For those who do not firmly remember the formulas for calculating the areas of flat figures, a "cheat sheet" scheme is given.

Shed roof area

If the attic roof is pitched, then its area can be calculated using the formula: Sabcd = Lcd × Lbd.

The area of ​​​​one slope - there is nothing easier

Pay attention to the drawing. When calculating, not only the length and width of the roof structure of the slope are taken into account - we must not forget about the cornice overhangs from all sides.

gable roof

With a symmetrical arrangement of roof slopes, for calculating a gable roof, it remains only to multiply the value obtained above by two.

For example, take the same example as discussed above. The size of the building is 10×8 m. The angle of the slope is 30 °, the height of the ridge H = 2.32 m. It is easy to determine the length of the rafter - S

S = H / sin α = 2.32 / 0.5 = 4.64 m

We accept cornice overhang 0,7 m, gable overhang 0,7 m. According to the shed roof formula, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone slope is calculated.

(10 + 2 × 0.7) × (4.64 + 0.7) = 60.88 m²

Then, to get the total area of ​​​​the two slopes, the resulting result is multiplied by two.

Q = 121.76 m²

This technique is designed to calculate the continuous surface of slopes, excluding windows, ventilation channels and a chimney.

If the roof has a very complex structure, then it is better not to take risks and still seek the help of professionals who will make the necessary calculations using special computer applications.

When using slate, soft roofing, other profile materials, you can use a simplified calculation formula.

Starting from the drawing:

So, the following formula is applicable for calculation:

Q\u003d K × (B + 2A) × (L + 2C)

Q- the required amount of roofing;

IN — the width of the building (along the gable wall);

BUT- the width of the planned eaves of the roof;

L- total length of the building;

C- the width of the side overhangs of the roof.

TO is a coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the slope with respect to the horizon (α). By and large, it is a trigonometric function of secant (sec), equal to the reciprocal of cosα.

In order not to delve into the theory, it is easier to give a coefficient table TO in absolute, that is, numerical measurement:

Tilt angle, degrees	K factor	Tilt angle, degrees	K factor	Tilt angle, degrees	K factor	Tilt angle, degrees	K factor
1	1.0002	18	1.0515	36	1.2361	53	1.6616
2	1.0006	19	1.0576	37	1.2521	54	1.7013
3	1.0014	20	1.0642	38	1.2690	55	1.7434
4	1.0024	21	1.0711	39	1.2868	56	1.7883
5	1.0038	22	1.0785	40	1.3054	57	1.8361
6	1.0055	23	1.0864	41	1.3250	58	1.8871
7	1.0075	24	1.0946	42	1.3456	59	1.9416
8	1.0098	25	1.1034	43	1.3673	60	2.0000
9	1.0125	26	1.1126	44	1.3902	61	2.0627
10	1.0154	27	1.1223	45	1.4142	62	2.1301
11	1.0187	28	1.1326	46	1.4396	63	2.2027
12	1.0223	29	1.1434	47	1.4663	64	2.2812
13	1.0263	30	1.1547	48	1.4945	65	2.3662
14	1.0306	31	1.1666	49	1.5243	66	2.4586
15	1.0353	32	1.1792	50	1.5557	67	2.5593
16	1.0403	33	1.1924	51	1.5890	68	2.6695
17	1.0457	34	1.2062	52	1.6243	69	2.7904
		35	1.2208			70	2.9238

Let's go back to our example:

Q= 1.1547 × (8 + 2 × 0.7) × (10+2 × 0.7) = 123.74 m²

Taking into account overlaps slate sheets - it turns out almost the same as in calculations carried out by a different method. Of course, on the advice of experienced builders, another 10 ÷ 15 %

(The figure shows a gable roof, however, the formula is fully suitable for calculations with the required level of accuracy for single-pitched or hip roofs. True, with a caveat - at the hip roof, the steepness of the main and side slopes must match. If not, then the calculation is carried out for each pairs of rays separately, and then the value is summed).

Total weight from truss system and roofing

It is equally important to correctly choose the optimal material for roofing and correctly make a crate for it. This calculation is carried out taking into account the length of the rafters and the angle of their slope.

The crate for roofing material can be sparse, mixed or solid. For example, a metal tile, corrugated board or slate is fixed to a sparse crate, and a soft roof - only to a solid one.

When choosing a roof, you need to get information about its operational characteristics. It is from them that the durability and reliability of the roof structure will depend. Roofing material must also be selected taking into account the specific region and its climatic conditions, especially factors such as temperature changes and strong winds.

An important factor is the weight of the roofing, especially if the mansard roof is installed on old walls. Therefore, you should estimate the weight of the roof in advance and find out how much the load on the building structure will increase, and whether it will be acceptable.

Roofing material for mansard roof	Roof slope	Material weight kg / m²
Asbestos cement slate sheets with medium profile	1:10 to 1:2	11
Slate with reinforced profile	1:5 to 1:1	13
bituminous tiles	From 1:10 and more	6 - 8
Soft roofing, taking into account the continuous lathing	From 1:10 and more	9 - 15
Galvanized metal sheets with single seam	From 1:4 and more	3 - 6,5
With double folds	From 1:5 and more	3 - 6,5
Ceramic tiles	1:5 to 1:0.5	50 - 60
Cement-sand tiles	1:5 to 1:0.5	45 - 70
metal tile	From 1:5 and more	5 - 7
Ondulin	From 1:10 and more	3 - 3,5

Most often, a soft roof or ondulin is used to cover attics, since these materials are one of those that have the lightest weight and are easy to install.

For example, you can calculate the weight of 1 square meter of roofing, where ondulin is used for coating, taking into account the crate and insulation - sprayed polyurethane foam. To do this, you need to find the sum of the weight of each of the materials and multiply by a factor of 1.1 (this factor takes into account the overlap on adjacent sheets of roofing material).

• The weight from a flat crate, 20 mm thick (plywood or OSB) is 14 kg / m².
• Insulation - polyurethane foam, 100 mm thick, has an average weight of 3 kg / m²
• The average weight of ondulin is 3.3 kg / m²

We get in total:

(14 + 3 + 3.3) × 1.1=22.3kg /m²

To calculate the total weight load of the roof on the walls, you need to multiply the weight of one square meter by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire coating. In our example, this will work:

M = 123.74 × 22.3 = 2751.82 kg.

A lot - almost 3 tons gives only a very light roofing with a crate and also a very light type of insulation.

But that's not all! The roof is affected by snow loads in the winter, plus wind pressure, all year round. These parameters are also necessarily taken into account when calculating the necessary wooden structural elements of the truss system and floor beams, and when taking into account the total load of the roof structure on the walls and foundation of the building.

- Then, the whole system is closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed on the logs with brackets.

- Boards or plywood sheets can be laid on top of it.

- A decorative coating is laid on them - it can be linoleum, laminate, parquet board and other materials.

Additional insulation can be created by laying an electric cable or infrared warm floor under the decorative coating. It is better to read about these possibilities separately in the article devoted to

• If the floor is mounted on floor beams, you will have to work from the side of the first floor.

- From the side of the lower room, boards are mounted on the floor beams. It is desirable that they be even, you can even use a floorboard for the subfloor.

- After that, a vapor barrier film is laid on these boards from the attic side, which will cover not only the subfloor, but also the floor beams.

- On top of it, another layer of vapor barrier is laid and attached to the beams.

- Then, logs are fixed to this coating perpendicular to the beams.

- Another layer of insulation is mounted between the lags, it is better to choose mineral wool for it, since, when straightened, it is tightly installed between the bars, leaving no voids.

- Then it should also be covered with vapor barrier material.

If it is decided to cover the floor with one of the decorative coatings, then plywood sheets are laid on top of the log, and then laminate, linoleum or other materials are laid on them. Again, nothing prevents in this case from using, for example, film floor heating.

Installation of insulation on the walls and ceiling of the attic

Having finished the installation of the floor, you can proceed to the installation of insulation on the walls.

- If material in mats is chosen for this process, then before laying it, sheets of vapor barrier material are fixed on the rafters.

It is fixed in such a way as to close the entire space and deepen it between the rafters.

If the vapor barrier is fixed on the other side of the rafters, then the mats will independently hold between two wooden surfaces.

- If one of the is selected, then it is not necessary to fix the vapor barrier film under it. It will be enough waterproofing, which is laid on the rafters outside the structure.

Spraying polyurethane foam - quickly and efficiently, but requires special equipment and work skills

To use this insulation technology, you must have special technological equipment, or you will have to invite a specialist who will do the work in one day. It is not easy to carry out this operation on your own without experience - in order to do the work without harming your health, you need to know the process technology and have the necessary protective devices.

After carrying out insulation work, wall cladding is carried out.

Prices for popular types of heaters

insulation

Attic wall decoration

Before you start finishing the walls, you need to resolve the issue of electrical wiring, the cable of which must be well insulated with double-layer corrugated pipes.

After the wiring of the electrical cable is done, you can safely proceed with the installation of the finishing material.

For decoration, they usually use wooden lining, drywall or plywood with a beautiful textured pattern.

For any of these materials, it is desirable to make a crate of slats on the rafters and vertical racks with a section size of approximately 20 × 70 mm. These guides are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition to the fact that the crate of the slats becomes the basis for fixing the finish, it also forms a ventilation gap between the finishing material and the vapor barrier.

• made quite simply. It leaves walls smooth and neat, ready for painting, traditional wallpapering or even liquid wallpapering.

Therefore, drywall finishing should be chosen by those homeowners who like to often change the interior design of the premises.

• Clapboard wall decoration is a longer and more laborious process than. For such a sheathing, a crate with the above parameters is also perfect. The only thing to think about is the direction of the lining boards, that is, it should be located vertically with the horizontal orientation of the crate and vice versa.

If desired, after installation, the wood can be varnished with a water-based varnish or given a deeper color using a stain.

Wood is an amazing material that can create a special atmosphere in the room with the aroma of the forest, which has a positive effect on the structure and well-being of residents. That is why natural lining is very often chosen for flooring, walls and attic ceilings.

Video: insulation of the attic room and finishing it with clapboard

• You can come up with a beautiful plywood finish. But that's only if it will not be covered with paint on top, then you need to choose a quality material that has a beautiful natural pattern. Plywood is mounted much faster than lining, and makes the walls even, covering large surfaces at once.

This material can be covered with varnish, paint or any kind of wallpaper, but you can leave the walls in their natural state only by carefully cleaning possible defects in the form of protruding splinters or burrs.

The construction of an attic is a rather laborious and complex process that requires high experience in the construction craft. If there is no one to understand the above technological operations, then you should not take it on your own - it is better to invite professional masters to perform the work. They will save you from unnecessary problems and build an attic according to the project conceived by the owner of the house.

Video: an example of the construction and decoration of the attic

Do-it-yourself attic photo

Expansion of living space in a private house after construction will cause a lot of problems, including redevelopment and related costs. But if you urgently need an extra room, there is a way out. Do-it-yourself mansard roof, erected above the house, allows you to increase the living space without completing the construction of an additional floor.

The mansard roof is somewhat different from the usual one. Its design is focused on obtaining the desired volume and height of the room. To achieve this goal, the attic is most often made according to a gable broken pattern.

The shape, angle of inclination and design that a sloping roof has are influenced by such factors:

• the height of the snow cover and the maximum level of precipitation in your area - the higher it is, the greater the angle of inclination of the slopes should be;
• estimated thickness of sound and heat insulation - a thick layer of insulation has a decent weight, which entails the need for additional fasteners;
• in some cases, do-it-yourself installation of a mansard roof involves the addition of an external flight of stairs, which can also affect its design.

Technical terms and safety rules

Do-it-yourself sloping roof is assembled from elements, most of which have their own historical names:

• A bar placed along the walls, playing the role of a support for the rafters, is called a Mauerlat.
• The wooden beams that form the slope of the roof are called rafters.
• The stiffeners connecting the individual rafters and distributing the load force between them form a suspension.
• Flat boards, plywood, chipboard and other materials on which tiles, corrugated board or similar roofing material is laid are called purlins.

When working at height, it is very important to take care of your own safety. For this you should:

• use a fastening belt;
• carefully fix the scaffolding during installation;
• do not leave unattended, especially switched on, electric and other tools;
• watch for assistants when lifting and moving heavy loads and it is advisable to always be in their visibility zone;
• do not leave loose parts on the roof slopes;
• try not to be distracted by other things when working at height.

Do-it-yourself attic photo: frame construction

Mansard roofs begin to be built from the base - Mauerlat. It is laid along the top of the walls to bind the box of the house and the roof structure. If the house is not brick, but made of wood, or its last floor is crowned with a wooden part, then the upper log or beam can serve as a Mauerlat.

The connection of the wall and the base in this case is carried out by means of large brackets, powerful overlays, nails or ties. In the old brickwork or concrete wall, the studs or anchors on which the Mauerlat beam sits are driven tightly, and when building a new wall, they are mounted during the masonry process.

Mauerlat is made only from coniferous wood. The bar has a section of 100 - 150 square centimeters. Coniferous wood is distinguished by its durability, resistance to stress and higher resistance to air humidity.

There must be waterproofing between the Mauerlat and the wall.

It can be a layer of thick roofing felt or a durable waterproof membrane. Thanks to waterproofing, the roof with an attic will be protected from excessive moisture and wood damage. When installing the Mauerlat, it is necessary to ensure a strict horizontal of its surface. It will become the basis for setting the verticals and horizontals of the roof structure.

Floor beams are laid on the base so that their ends protrude 30-50 cm beyond the wall line. They are made of coniferous wood, from a bar with a cross section of at least 100x200 mm. The fastening of the beams to the Mauerlat is done with steel corners, brackets and other and durable hardware.

For greater strength at the junction of the bars, you can choose pockets of recesses and lay them with one layer of roofing material. To ensure the horizontal, it is better to first lay the two extreme beams, and level the rest along the stretched cord. Alignment is done by trimming and knocking small wedges, wooden spacers under the bars.

According to accepted standards, the step between the beams can vary from 50 to 100 cm. In practice, do-it-yourself construction of a mansard roof is tied to the dimensions of the materials used, and the step between the beams is adjusted to the width of the interfloor sheet sound and heat insulating material, for example, construction wool. The ends protruding beyond the wall are treated with water-repellent protective preparations.

The racks on which the logs will rest are vertically installed on the floor beams. They are made of timber 100x100 or 100x150 mm. The vertical position of the racks is controlled by a level or a plumb line. The construction of the attic requires mandatory control of the placement of the upper ends of the racks in the same horizontal plane.

Fixing is done by temporary or permanent slopes, both in the longitudinal and transverse directions, in relation to the axial section of the roof. For jibs, any sufficiently strong boards or trimmings of thin timber are taken. The result is two rows of racks, equal in height and parallel to each other.

On top of them, in line with the Mauerlat, runs are laid - boards with a section of 50x150 mm. Usually they account for the fracture of the roof. There are other design solutions, but such a broken mansard roof with your own hands is the easiest to implement.

Runs of parallel rows are interconnected by puffs. The puff-purlin-beam system forms a rigid skeleton of a rectangular living space. Puffs work in tension and do not carry a transverse load. Therefore, for them, you can take the thickness of the board 50 mm, and the crossbar - 150 mm. To eliminate sagging, it is installed on the edge.

rafters

The construction of a mansard-type roof itself begins with the construction of the truss system. With sufficient experience, it is better to assemble the rafters on the ground and feed them upward for their consistent fixing on the girders and Mauerlat. An easier, but time-consuming way is to collect them locally right at the top.

In this case, each board of the lower rafters is applied and cut in place, after which it is attached in the lower part to the base and protruding parts of the beams, and at the top to the girders. Horizontal installation is controlled by a stretched rope. Fastening is carried out with nails, wood screws, steel plates and brackets. The lower part of the rafter leg should extend 30-50 cm beyond the wall. This will be the basis for knocking out the fillies that form the hanging part of the roof.

The upper part of the rafter system is formed by hanging rafters. They can also be collected on the ground and fed up a ready-made corner. After attaching to the lower rafter legs, the ridge of each corner is rigidly attached to the central part of the puff by means of a headstock.

Under its own weight, the upper part of the truss system forms a strong self-adjusting system, similar to an open umbrella. Thanks to this, any fluctuations of the roof will be compensated by springiness. If the width of the attic is large enough, a ridge is knocked along the upper connection of the rafters. With a small width, the extreme upper boards of the crate can play its role.

Sheathing of gables

Sheathing of gables can be done with any sheet material or boards. When they are hemmed, they leave room for window and, if necessary, doorways. They equip a reinforcing frame that matches the size of the window or door frame. At the same time, fillies are pushed to the lower parts of the rafter legs - extension boards that form the overhang of the roof.

The type of lathing depends on the characteristics of the selected type of roof. If it is a soft mansard roof or shingles, then the structure should be solid or with the smallest possible gaps. For a hard coating, their size and lathing pitch are indicated by the manufacturer of specific roofing materials.

Waterproofing is installed under the base for fixing the tiles. It is advisable to thickly treat the boards with a moisture-proof preparation. Plywood and other softwood sheet materials must be water resistant.

Warming

A broken mansard roof allows you to limit yourself to the insulation of the living space from above and on the sides. At the same time, the lower part of the roof will be well ventilated, which will prevent moisture and condensation from accumulating. Due to the rafter voids, the attic with your own hands will be protected from overheating in summer, and from hypothermia in winter.

Attic interior cladding

For the interior lining of the attic space, wooden or plastic lining, plywood, thin sheets of chipboard or fiberboard are used. Heavy facing materials should not be used, since the entire load from their weight falls on the wooden beams.

Outcome

A do-it-yourself attic will most fully meet your requirements and will allow you to make the most of the attic space for organizing living quarters.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof step by step video

The mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while financial investments will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the mansard roof, you can equip rooms for housing. The shape of the building may be different, but in most cases the attic is equipped under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to get a significant area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard type roof

The first step is to decide on the scheme of the frame. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Sloped rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on fillies and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ligaments.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be above 2.5 m. To ensure such a height, the break line should be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum ceiling height of the mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S \u003d Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for a flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 for a design with a slope of 25-60°).

The parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the "Rafter systems" section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

• mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
• floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
• runs - horizontal support parts for rafters;
• lathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
• filly - planks that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, girders, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual design with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes that are placed opposite each other have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is mainly exposed at an angle of about 60 °. Racks for support, which hold the rafters, form the frame structure of the inner walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks, which abut against floor planks, girders and crossbars fastening them, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After mounting the upper elements to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, it is necessary to install suspended support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with racks using tacks. Parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If it is decided to make such a design yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

• roofing material;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• material for insulation.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for covering the roof. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to the creation of an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection. You will need to prepare the following elements:

• wooden bars with a section of 100x50 mm;
• slats 50x150 mm;
• unedged boards;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• axe;
• hammer;
• sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drafting a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as to provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

All structural elements should be marked on the project

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1. It is important to decide in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
2. It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
3. The attic scheme should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of shape, determining the cross section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• slope;
• roofing material;
• climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts for fixing. In the figure below you can see some of the data needed for the calculation, however, drafting a project is a complex process. This work is recommended to be entrusted to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The device of the mansard roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared project of the attic. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of the roof truss system with two slopes are:

• linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
• planar details (plate, flooring, panel);
• spatial elements (arch, shell, three-dimensional detail).

Before performing work, you will need to dry the wood thoroughly. The first step is the marking and installation of the Mauerlat. It is attached to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful rail. If it is planned to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, metal studs should be used, which are mounted in a monolithic concrete beam.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be carried out in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing material or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

Mauerlat installation is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the extended support parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the mansard roof consists of floor beams, rafters, girders and racks

Softwood bars 200x100 mm are often used as a material. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30–50 cm indent beyond the surface of the walls or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the beam to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the strips should be installed in this sequence:

1. First of all, the extreme details are laid according to the level.
2. Next, pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
3. The step of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without sawing.
4. To level the beams in height, they can be hemmed. Another option is to use plank linings.
5. If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material.

Racks must be placed on the extreme slats:

After installing the racks, crossbars and girders, you can get a reliable design that will limit the interior rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be fixed with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

1. The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a rack that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and puff from the end of the roof. The extreme part of the board should run along the center of the roof. On this board you need to align the rafter legs.
2. Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the run on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
3. You should mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the layout of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in fixing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
4. According to the preparation, it is necessary to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the runs and connected in the upper parts with the help of overhead iron plates or scraps of planks. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafters rest against the cuts and are seized with iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened with struts mounted on the bottom of the puffs. All rafters are installed in this way.
5. Suspension racks are fixed - pieces of planks 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tightening.

Video: mansard roof truss system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

The crate is needed for:

• distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
• performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
• grounds for fixing roofing material.

The crate can be made in one or two layers, solid or with a vacuum.

The crate can be solid or with a vacuum

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof of slate or metal tiles is being erected, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the bars of the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

A solid crate is used in the case of fastening soft material in rolls.

A solid crate is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards can be used. It is allowed to use pine wood material - edged planks.

It is important to take into account the fact that when constructing such a crate, the material to be laid must follow the contours of the outer base. Therefore, the frame structure must be strong and leveled.

In the process of laying out the material, you should use a cord with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. Parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from decay, fungus and dampness. The blanks must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. It should not have knots. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of actions for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare a quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often, mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to consider that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the device design.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered as a whole. Step by step guide to waterproofing a structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with the help of modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives a poor result, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing material.

Before proceeding to work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• foamed glass;
• wood shavings;
• straw.

It is necessary to choose a material taking into account four parameters.

1. Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or less is optimal.
2. Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
3. Fire resistant.
4. Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after a while. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof insulation step by step guide:

Laying roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the floor base 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m 2. When installing windows, you need to take into account such nuances.

Everyone dreams of expanding the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe home. But not always the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house allows you to equip, for example, an extension. One of the best solutions in this case is the construction of a mansard roof - additional footage with minimal investment.

Such a roof is built quite easily and quickly. And by enlisting the help of a few friends, you can save on labor.

To build a mansard roof on your own, you need to arm yourself with knowledge in this area to the maximum. Read more about the mansard roof device. So, mansard roofs are:

− in 1 level - the building has remote consoles, a large area and vertical windows. An attic with a single-level roof extends beyond the level of one of the sides of the house;

- in 2 levels - a project with a mixed type of support. This type of roof - the most difficult at all stages of construction, is designed together with the house;
− gable - add-ons for the attic in one level, easy to install. The main disadvantage is a small area and low ceilings;

- double-slope broken lines - buildings with 4 pitched planes at different angles. Somewhat more complicated than the previous version, but among the advantages is a full-fledged interior.

Different projects of mansard roofs almost do not differ from standard pitched roofs and include the following elements:

• roofing - appearance and protection from precipitation;
• crate - the base for roofing and insulation materials;
• ridge - the crown of the truss structure;
• rafters - inclined stiffeners of the entire structure;
• mauerlat - base beams for installing a truss system;
• diagonal bevels - connections for longitudinal beams and vertical racks;
• internal beams - supports for the ridge run and / or rafters for structural stability;
• insulation - a structure of layers of vapor, hydro, heat and sound insulation.

Mansard roof in a private house - photo under construction

To build, for example, a slate roof of this type, you will need:

• wood - bars (15, 12, 10), unedged boards, boards 40-50mm by 150mm;
• nails - 80 and slate;
• wire - annealed (3-4mm) and for stretch marks;
• slate;
• insulation;
• hydrobarrier.

Tools for building a mansard roof, most likely, do not even have to buy:

• roulette;
• axe;
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• plumb;
• hacksaw.

The slope of the roof provides precipitation, but takes the height of the room. That is, the smaller the angle of inclination, the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room itself will come out. Partially useful attic area is also reduced due to roof insulation. Read what exist and how to properly stack them.

Mansard roof construction technology

The technology for erecting a mansard roof has some subtleties:

− the thickness of the rafters must be more than 250 mm. This is necessary for comfortable laying of an insulating layer of 20 cm. The rafters can be made from glued laminated timber;

- for thermal insulation it is better to use foamed polystyrene or glass - they retain their properties even with increasing humidity;

- between the heat-insulating layer and the roof, it is necessary to install ventilation in accordance with all the rules - with exhaust hoods and air ducts, so that the air circulates freely under the surface of the building;

In order for the roof to turn out to be of high quality and reliable, it must have excellent ventilation, thermal insulation, and a high-quality truss structure made of treated wood.

- the inner side of the thermal insulation needs a vapor barrier layer over the entire surface;

- a layer of hydro-, if necessary, sound insulation is laid out under the roof from the outside of the rafters;

- wood for the entire structure must be treated with special means from microorganisms and fire, according to the requirements of SNiP;

- if the mansard roof is installed in windy areas, it is worth reducing its angle of inclination;

- if the house is in a quiet, windless place, you need to increase the angle of inclination;

- such roofs are covered with ceramic tiles or slate. Metal, due to its low thermal insulation properties, is not recommended;

- for thermal insulation it is necessary to use non-combustible materials;

- the mansard roof provides for the presence of a ladder.

The external staircase will not take up the area of ​​​​the house, but it will be possible to get into the attic only from the street. Internal - much more convenient, but takes up space in the house. To solve this problem, you can install a ceiling ladder on a hinged joint or a screw structure. And how, according to GOST, to pick up on the second floor, read our instructions.

Phased construction of a mansard roof

Before building a roof, you must:

• Conduct an examination of the building to identify the maximum load for walls and foundations.
• Develop an attic project.
• Obtain permits:

1. from city authorities to construction and reconstruction;
2. expert opinion about the house;
3. permission from all owners.

Rafters of a broken mansard roof - scheme

After designing the roof and the preparatory process, you can start building:

1. We lay and fasten the Mauerlat along the perimeter of the house - a bar 100 by 100.
2. Installing the frame. The supports of the truss structure will serve as frame racks. For its device, a beam with a section similar to the section of the longitudinal beams is taken. Vertical racks are placed along the edges of the building and attached to the longitudinal beams with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. We make a jumper on top of each rack.
3. We mount the remaining arches. Between the two arches formed at the previous stage of installation, we stretch the cord strictly horizontally. The remaining arches are installed with a guideline for the cord and a step for the rafters. We connect the arches with stamped corners or nail plates as jumpers.
4. Let's move on to the rafters. We cut their upper ends at a certain angle. On the bases of the bars we cut out grooves for mounting on the Mauerlat. The rafters are fixed to the base structure. Then, according to the template, we cut the upper rafters and also install them in their places. Also check out more details for the attic.
5. We mount the crate with boards or plywood sheets.
6. We lay a layer of vapor and thermal insulation. Layers are installed from the inside of the rafters. We stuff the crate over the insulation.
7. From the outside of the rafters we mount a layer of waterproofing.
8. The last step will be the installation of roofing from the selected material. The roof layer is mounted on top of the waterproofing.
9. Do not forget about ventilation windows, as well as window openings. Of course, the window can only be installed in the gables, but two windows are unlikely to provide sufficient lighting.

How much will it cost to build a mansard roof

Consider the prices for materials for a mansard roof, given that the construction will be done independently.

The price of insulation (mineral wool) depends on the density per cubic meter and the base:

• on fiberglass - 1400-2500 rubles. per cubic meter;
• on basalt fiber - 1100-2000 rubles. per cubic meter;
• on jute fiber - 10-16 rubles. per running metre.

Roofing materials do not differ much in price:

• shingles - about 340 rubles. per square;
• metal tile - about 250 rubles. per square.

Calculations of the final cost of the building are made on the basis of the area of ​​​​the mansard roof.

Video

About the construction of a mansard roof with your own hands on the video. About the technology itself clearly and some useful tips.

A mansard roof is an ideal solution for expanding the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. With the support of several people and armed with the knowledge of building a building, you can quickly build a functional and reliable mansard roof for many years of use.