How to make potbelly stoves for long burning with your own hands? Why the potbelly stove smokes and how to deal with it They blaze in the potbelly stove.

Basic rules for kindling a furnace from a cylinder

The furnace is started according to a certain scheme. It is important to take it into account in order to achieve an optimal result and ensure an ideal level of safety.

You should do things like:
• For effective kindling, it is initially required to completely remove the present cover and then remove the special device for supplying air masses.
• The fuel used is being laid, but its volume should in no way be greater than the chimney line located at the bottom.
• If a potbelly stove or bubafonya work on wood, then in a vertical position they can fit much more than if they are laid horizontally.
• It’s worth it, sprinkle the top of the used firewood with a small amount of wood chips and put paper.
• The damper opens and paper or rags are thrown into the pipe. After complete ignition of the fuel, the damper closes.

In this position, the furnace is able to work for a day or more, that is, constant human intervention is not required.

Summing up

Does not belong to the category of complex process from a technical point of view. You just need to apply a certain persistence, and the goal will be achieved. With full observance of the instructions, the assembled structure will serve its owners for many years.

Until recently, a metal stove-potbelly stove was characterized by low efficiency with a huge fuel consumption. It took a total change in its device, so that it became a highly efficient heating device. What is the modern design of a potbelly stove?

Historically, the design of a potbelly stove is based on two basic elements: a firebox (combustion chamber) and a chimney. And the shortcomings of the model were largely the result of its primitive structure. The potbelly stove was a metal box or cylinder with legs, a door and a chimney pipe (also made of metal). The modern model is a complete oven with all the necessary structural elements.

Firebox

The cast-iron door may not cover the window of the furnace chamber, but, for example, its lower part - the ash pan

Ash pan and grate

The ash pan of the potbelly stove. The design of the ash pan - a box for collecting ash resulting from the burning of fuel - is almost the same for a stove and a fireplace. This is the same metal box with a door: through it, the firebox is cleaned of ashes.

Chimney of stove-stove

knee chimney The heat exchange part of the chimney is hidden inside the casing. Its device depends on the shape of the potbelly stove. In horizontally elongated furnaces, the so-called “smoke bag”, also known as a “cap” or “smoke chamber”, is usually arranged. Through the hole in the side wall of the firebox, the smoke does not pass immediately into the pipe, but into the chamber and from there - into the chimney. Getting into such a "hood", the flue gases significantly slow down their movement, due to which the amount of heat that they transfer to the walls of the furnace increases.

In potbelly stoves, which have a vertically elongated shape, to achieve this effect, flue gases are driven through a system of curved channels - knee or spiral. Thus, the heat transfer of the furnace is significantly increased, the speed of movement and the temperature of the gases are reduced, and the service life of the chimneys is increased.

Specific instances of slow-burning metal furnaces

Bullerian

Unlike other heaters that emit heat only from the outer surface, Bullerian is designed from the outset as a true air heater.

The all-metal construction with numerous pipes welded into it provides forced convection, due to which the air heats up quickly and is smoothly distributed throughout the entire volume of the room. A simple physical principle works: warm air rises, while colder air is constantly sucked from the floor. Each of the pipes, completely touching the furnace, has time to heat the air flow passing through it to 60 ° -150 ° C. The smallest Buleryan (Bullerian, Bulerian) passes through itself 4.5 cubic meters of air per minute. At the same time, the temperature of the stove itself remains quite low, it does not heat up like a "potbelly stove" and does not "burn out" oxygen.

The Buleryan furnace (Bullerian, Bulerian) works on the principle of a gas generator: the gases released during the combustion of solid fuel in the lower chamber enter the ejectors for the complete combustion of gas, where they burn out completely. This achieves a very high efficiency - up to 80%. The temperature of the outgoing air is regulated by a power regulator located on the oven door and a gasifier regulator located on the flue pipe. Furnace Buleryan (Bullerian, Bulerian) operates in two modes - "rapid heating" and "gasification", - solving two problems in succession: quickly heat a cold room and maintain a comfortable temperature for a long time. Arriving in a cold house and melting the Buleryan stove (Bullerian, Bulerian), you will get the required temperature in 20-25 minutes. The temperature of the outgoing air decreases to 50 "-60" C, and a full bookmark is enough for 12 hours, and the fuel burns out almost "to zero". Fuel for the furnace Buleryan (Bullerian, Bulerian) are firewood, peat briquettes, woodworking and paper industry waste. The use of coking coal is not recommended as can lead to premature failure of the oven.

Subject to all the rules of installation and operation, the warranty period for the Buleryan stove is 2 years, however, practice shows that the service life of Buleryan (Bullerian, Buleryan) is NOT LIMITED.

For halls and halls, because a single stove heats a room up to 1000 cubic meters (350 sq.m)

For dachas, houses and cottages, because it does not take up much space, quickly warms up the room and requires virtually no maintenance

In workshops, hangars and enterprises, in grain and wood dryers, because with the help of wood waste cheaply produces heat in sufficient quantities

In greenhouses, because it provides fast and cheap heat in a short time when cold weather sets in

INSTALLATION
It is recommended to install an autonomous heating system of a cottage no closer than 1 meter from walls and combustible surfaces (wood, wallpaper, etc.), at a minimum distance from the existing chimney (if any), and the free distance in front of the firebox should be at least 1 .25 m. The distance to combustible surfaces can be reduced to 200 mm if combustible materials are covered with 25 mm thick plaster or metal sheet over a layer of thermal insulation material. In the case of installing an autonomous heating system for the cottage "Bullerian" (Bullerian, Bulerian) in the premises of an organization or legal entities, the installation must be handed over to the fire department representative according to the act.

FOUNDATION for Autonomous Cottage Heating System (Bullerian, Bullerian).
For better air circulation through the Bullerian heating pipe system (Bullerian, Bulerian), raise the stove at least 200 mm from the floor level and install it on a base of brick, slabs, stone or other non-combustible material. For ease of maintenance, it is possible to install the system at a height of 300-600 mm on metal structures. In front of the firebox, to ensure fire safety, there should be a metal sheet measuring 500x700 mm, located with the wide side towards the stove.

DEVICE Autonomous Cottage Heating System (Bullerian, Bullerian).
Stove "Bulleryan" (Bullerian, Bulerian) is an all-welded steel construction, covered with heat-resistant paint (during the first furnace, it is completely polymerized, which is accompanied by a characteristic smell). The miracle stove "Bullerian" (Bullerian, Bulerian) consists of two combustion chambers: the lower chamber - the gasification chamber and the upper chamber - the afterburning chamber. There are afterburner injectors in the front pipes. IF YOU HAVE SMOKE THROUGH THESE PIPES, YOUR CHIMNEY IS EITHER INCREDIBLE OR CLOSED. The Miracle stove is equipped with two regulators: on the door (power regulator) and on the chimney at the back of the stove (gasifier regulator).

Stoves Professor Butakov

All models of Professor Butakov furnaces are produced in five serial modifications for space heating from 150 to 1200 square meters and a rated power from 9 to 55 kilowatts, respectively. Models are united by general purpose, principle of operation, layout and fuel used. They differ in overall dimensions, weight, volume of the combustion chamber, the maximum volume of fuel loaded, the size of the furnace door, the diameter and number of convective pipes, the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bconvective pipes, the area of ​​​​heating surfaces, the diameter and height of the chimney. The smallest furnace is Professor Butakov "Student". Next in terms of power increase is the “Engineer” model, then “Associate Professor”, “Professor” and, finally, “Academician”, the heating area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is 1200 m2.

Distinctive features and advantages of Butakov:

• The area of ​​heating surfaces, one side of which is in contact with the flame, and the other side with the air of the heated room, is a record developed.
• A large hermetic firebox and a secondary combustion system allow efficient use of the stove in long-term burning mode.
• Convective heat exchange tubes are located directly in the flame throughout the entire cross section and along the entire length, from beginning to end.
• The firebox is relatively long, high, narrow and truncated in the upper part. This form most fully corresponds to the form of the thermal diagram of a freely combustible solid fuel.
• The front and back surfaces, on which the convective pipes are placed, fully participate in the convective heat transfer.
• The flow of flame and hot flue gases is directed along the convective pipes, from their very beginning to their very end.
• On the upper horizontal surface in contact with the flame, you can heat up or even cook food.
• The large replaceable grate ensures uniform combustion. If necessary, it allows you to sharply force combustion to quickly raise the temperature or dry the raw fuel.
• The capacious sliding drawer allows one movement, without interrupting burning, to remove ashes.
• The inlets of convective heat exchange tubes are located at a considerable distance from the floor, which is favorable for air circulation. The boiler has a stable base with holes for additional fixing to the floor.

fire battery

Normal 2 Turbo- Hybrid wood burning stove and electric heat gun

Wood-burning heating and cooking stove-fireplace of long burning

Professor Butakov

Electric generating wood heating and cooking stove
Indigirka

This is a small solid fuel heating and cooking stove with a built-in electric generator that converts the thermal energy of the fuel burning in the stove into electrical energy.

During the operation of the oven for its intended purpose, that is, in the process of heating or cooking, the oven generates a direct current of 12 volts and a power of at least 50 watts.

Is it a lot or a little? For a city dweller sated with comfort, probably not enough. For a person, for one reason or another, completely cut off from the outside world and its benefits - a lot. Often these saving 50 watts can become the line between life and death.

With the current level of development of energy-saving technologies, this power provides the entire set of electrical devices necessary for civilized life.

The development of the project was carried out by the Termofor company together with the Kryotherm company from St. Petersburg.

Recall that today in the world, out of 6 billion people on Earth, more than 1.6 billion people do not have access to stationary sources of electricity.

Of the 21 million dachas in Russia, about 5 million are either not connected to electricity at all or are experiencing severe power outages.

In northern latitudes, generating electricity from furnace heat has a number of distinct advantages compared to generating electricity from windmills, solar panels and diesel generators.

The current generated by the oven is enough to connect 2-3 energy-saving light bulbs, charge the batteries of a laptop, mobile or satellite phone, photo or video camera, connect a portable TV, radio, DVD player and other portable energy-saving devices.

According to the results of laboratory and field tests, the electric generator of the furnace reaches a stable mode in 6-8 minutes after the ignition of the fuel in the furnace.

Reliability of electric generators is beyond doubt, since electric generators of the Kryotherm company have been supplied to hundreds of consumer firms in 17 countries of the world for many years.

Similar power generators manufactured by our partner are used in the defense industry of many countries, space, high-tech industries.

When various means for space heating began to appear, modern people began to move away from using the traditional potbelly stove. They began to consider such a stove an uncomplicated relic of the past. But in fact, it is effective in application, does not require large expenses and does not take up much space.

Those who nevertheless gave preference to such a stove often face the problem of smoking. During operation, smoke appears in the room, and some areas on the stove are covered with soot. Why it happens? And how to eliminate the causes? These issues can be dealt with without the help of specialists - on their own.

1. The smoke does not go up the chimney because undried firewood was used. Here the solution is simple. Damp wood should not be used and care should be taken to keep the fuel dry in the future.
2. The potbelly stove has an incorrect, short chimney length. In order for the traction to be carried out qualitatively, it is required to raise the pipe from the outside by 1.5 or 2 meters above the roof.
3. In the manufacture of the potbelly stove, the dimensions of the combustion chamber and chimney were incorrectly selected. Perhaps they made a mistake in the drawings or made an oversight in the measurements. Standard ratio: if the firebox is 70cm * 70cm in size, then the diameter of the chimney is 11cm.
4. The cause of smoking may be the wrong size of the ash pan. In order for the stove to work properly, the firebox must be at least 3 times larger than the ash pan.
5. During the operation of the potbelly stove, combustion products accumulate in the chimney, which must be systematically removed - pipe cleaning is required.

A compact stove for heating a small room, commonly called simply a potbelly stove, will soon celebrate its 100th anniversary. Having appeared in the 1920s, such metal stoves with a chimney became simply irreplaceable during the Great Patriotic War. The potbelly stove does not give up its positions to this day, remaining a necessary attribute of a garage, greenhouse or country house. Such a stove is needed wherever people need to warm up and cook food, despite the lack of central heating.

The potbelly stove has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages of such a heating device include:

• energy independence and autonomy;
• cheap fuel in the form of coal, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, peat, used technical oil, diesel fuel, paint waste, etc.;
• fast heating;
• small dimensions;
• installation without a foundation;
• capital is not needed;
• ease of operation;
• low financial costs in the case of making a stove with your own hands.

However, the stove-potbelly stove also has disadvantages:

• good ventilation is required in the room;
• high fuel consumption;
• the need for constant monitoring of the fuel level;
• quick cooling (however, we will fix this drawback - to increase the efficiency, the stove can be overlaid with bricks).

Note: If you feel the need for such an apparatus, then you have two options - buy an industrial-made metal stove or make it yourself.

First, we’ll talk about purchased stoves, the cost of which starts at about 4,000 rubles (for example, the Ugolek stove) and rises to 40,000 rubles and more (this cost is typical for stoves with beautiful names “Bavaria”, “Baron” and etc.).

With heat exchanger

In the middle of this price range are, for example, potbelly stoves with a water heating circuit and a heat exchanger, an army cast-iron stove, a long-burning potbelly stove of the Klondike type.

The material for stoves and fireplaces made in workshops is usually stainless steel and cast iron. The standard drawing assumes the presence of a bunker with a firebox door, an ash pan, a chimney pipe. However, it happens that a potbelly stove is equipped with a hob, burners and even an oven. The enterprises also make heater stoves, as well as potbelly stoves, in which, to increase the efficiency, a ceramic or steel casing is installed, which significantly increases heat transfer. If you wish, you can buy a stove-stove stove or just a stove with a gas generator for your home.

Potbelly stove-homemade

Making a potbelly stove with your own hands is easy even without a drawing. Improvised materials are suitable for work, whether it be a gas cylinder, a milk can, a barrel, a piece of pipe, or sheet iron lying around in the garage. Having decided what can be put into action, choose for a potbelly stove with your own hands a drawing of a rectangular or circular section of the combustion chamber.

For example, you need to make heating in your country house yourself and you have an unused milk can (for arranging the stove itself), a bent piece of pipe (to create a chimney) and a piece of metal reinforcement with a diameter of at least 6 mm (for a grate). To make a stove out of all this, it is enough to be friends with the tools, as well as apply a little ingenuity.

The can is installed on its side - this is the basis of our do-it-yourself potbelly stove, its combustion chamber. A rectangular blower is sawn under the neck, the edges are processed with a file. The blower can be left in this form, or you can attach a damper to it, getting a stove with adjustable draft at the exit.

In the upper part of the bottom of the can, you yourself need to make markings for the chimney (it should be 2-3 mm smaller than the diameter of the pipe). We cut a hole and tightly drive a piece of pipe adapted for the chimney into it. Half of the work is done.

Next, we deal with the insides of the potbelly stove. With our own hands we make a grate in the form of a “snake” from a metal rod. We introduce the rod into the neck of the can and position it so that the grate stands horizontally in the future combustion chamber. That's all! If desired, you can put the resulting stove on an iron pallet and a rack of bricks. This will help to avoid heating the floor, as well as minimize the likelihood of a fire.

Note that a similar algorithm of actions can also be applied if you want to have a potbelly stove from a barrel. Such stoves cannot boast of long-term burning, but they cope well with the function of quickly heating the premises.

The second life of a gas cylinder

It's a good idea for a small oven to reuse containers that can handle a lot of heat. We have already talked about barrels, but how do you like, for example, a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder or even two? These containers are good because they allow you to make a stove for a country house or garage, both vertically and horizontally.

To create such a potbelly stove, you will need the following tools:

• welding machine;
• grinding machine with circles;
• drill with drills;
• brush with metal bristles;
• tape measure and construction pencil for marking;
• hammer, chisel, pliers.

Materials for making a stove with your own hands need the following:

• 1 or 2 gas cylinders;
• Metal sheet for the ash pan and hob (thickness must be at least 3 mm);
• cast-iron doors (old ones are suitable, for example, from a wood-burning stove, or do-it-yourself made from sheet metal);
• chimney pipe;
• thick metal fittings for the manufacture of legs and grate.

Before starting work in a gas cylinder, open the valve and leave it in this state for at least 12 hours so that the container is ventilated. Another way to clean the cylinder is to fill it to the top with water, and then empty it completely.

For a vertical potbelly stove, the gas cylinder is placed in a standard position for it, the neck is released and markings are made for the future firebox and blower. The marked pieces are cut out with a grinder. A grate is made separately - for this, reinforcement cut to the required dimensions is welded in the places marked from the bottom of the cylinder.

Hinges are welded to the cylinder, on which the doors are hung. Further, hecks are equipped, which are designed to secure and increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove. A smoke exhaust pipe is welded on top or side of the cylinder.

For a horizontal potbelly stove, the cylinder is installed on the "legs" sideways. A square hole is cut out in it for the door and a round one for the chimney pipe. Instead of a grate, a series of holes are drilled at the bottom, and a rectangular container is welded below the cylinder to collect the ash. The stove is almost ready, it remains to hang the door with your own hands and install a chimney.

If desired, the complete set of vertical and horizontal stoves from gas cylinders can be expanded with a hob made from a sheet of metal attached on top.

Free fuel

Note: If you want to keep fuel costs for a potbelly stove to a minimum, consider making a home-made heating structure using car oil drained from the car.

A working potbelly stove is especially good for garage owners. The drawing of its design includes two tanks connected by a pipe, as well as a chimney.

To create a furnace for mining, you will need the following materials:

1. Metal 4 mm thick for a potbelly stove.
2. 6mm thick metal for top tank lid.
3. Metal rods for the legs of the stove (3-4 pieces of suitable thickness).
4. A pipe made of heat-resistant material for connecting tanks (diameter at least 100 mm, length approx. 400 mm).
5. Chimney pipe (length not less than 4 m).

Work on the formation of a potbelly stove for working out is carried out in the following order:

1. Legs are welded to the lower tank.
2. A lid with holes made for oil and air is welded onto this tank from above.
3. At least 50 holes with a diameter of 9 mm are made on the connecting tube.
4. Weld the tube to the lid of the lower tank.
5. A second tank with a filler neck and a chimney pipe is welded on top.

It is easy to use such a potbelly stove. Oil is poured into the cold machine through the filler neck almost to the top, not reaching the reservoir cap of just a few centimeters. Kindling material in the form of rags or newsprint is also laid there. It remains to set it on fire, and soon you will enjoy the warmth.

As a rule, such stoves "use" from 700 to 2000 ml of used oil per hour. Potbelly stoves at working out allow you to boil water and cook simple food. However, their operation requires the obligatory presence of good ventilation in the room to remove carbon monoxide, as well as compliance with fire safety rules (combustible materials must not be placed near the stove, use flammable materials such as gasoline, acetone, etc.). The waste tank must be protected from water ingress. Refueling with oil is carried out only after the stove has completely cooled down.

Sheet metal

How to make a potbelly stove out of metal? This project can be implemented by yourself if you have welding experience, as well as the necessary tools. From the materials you will need the following:

• sheet metal (its quantity determines the size of the stove);
• steel corners 5 mm thick;
• metal tube about 30 cm long;
• pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.

To get a potbelly stove, you need to weld a rectangle of metal sheets butted together (without a lid yet). On one side, place a blower and a furnace door. The internal space of the stove is divided into a smoke circulation, a firebox and an ash pan.

In the last two compartments, a grate is installed that will hold solid fuel. To do this, steel corners are welded inside the potbelly stove on the sides at a height of up to 15 cm. A grid welded in advance is laid on them (it can be made of steel strips welded to thick metal bars at a distance of about 5 cm). It is better to make the grate removable, so that later, when it burns out, it would be possible to replace it without any problems. In addition, the removable grate design makes it easy to clean the heater.

Let's return to the construction of the stove. In order to increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove, you can make fasteners for a removable reflector (a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 12 mm), which will separate the furnace and smoke. To do this, two metal rods are welded on top. After installing the reflector, you should get a channel for smoke.

Having equipped the inside of the potbelly stove, you can weld the top metal sheet, which will become the cover of the structure. A hole is made in advance in it for fixing the chimney pipe. Further, jumpers are equipped in the stove, delimiting the doors made for the ash pan, reflector and grate. As a rule, a small door is equipped under the ash pan, but two steel doors are made to the full width of the stove, so that it is convenient to get the reflector and grate.

The next step is to weld latches and legs to the structure (metal tubes with a diameter of up to 3 cm and a length of 10 cm are suitable for them), as well as chimney pipes from a curved pipe with a diameter of about 18 cm (note that the chimney is placed on a 20 cm sleeve ). The sheet metal potbelly stove is ready.

warm brick

A potbelly stove on wood, coal and other types of fuel can significantly increase its efficiency. To do this, it is enough to build a screen of baked clay bricks around it with your own hands. If you look closely at the drawings of such a mini-building, you can see that the bricks are laid at a short distance from the walls of the stove (about 10-15 cm), and if desired, around the chimney.

Bricks need a foundation. Do you want the masonry to last a long time? Then pour the base at a time to form a monolith. The material for the foundation is better to take concrete, which should be reinforced with steel reinforcement with your own hands. It is desirable to make a reinforcement layer at a distance of approximately 5 cm from the surface of the concrete pad.

Ventilation holes are made at the bottom and top of the brickwork, which will ensure the movement of air (heated masses will go up, cold air flows from below). Ventilation also prolongs the life of the metal walls of the potbelly stove, postponing the moment of their burnout due to cooling by circulating air.

Bricks laid out around the stove accumulate heat, and then give it away for a long time, warming the air in the room even after the potbelly stove goes out. In addition, brickwork additionally protects objects surrounding the stove from fire.

If desired, the stove can be completely laid out of brick. Such a structure is beneficial in that it will last for many years without additional effort on the part of the owner. However, there are also certain disadvantages. The disadvantages of this option include the following:

• the process of laying out such a stove is quite laborious and is suitable only for those people who have experience in masonry with their own hands;
• a brick potbelly stove is quite expensive, as it requires the use of refractory materials, including special clay for mortar.

In order to get a small stove on wood, it is enough to lay out a cone measuring 2 by 2.5 bricks, 9 bricks high. In the combustion chamber, 2-4 rows are laid out from fireclay bricks. Ordinary clay baked brick is suitable for a chimney, into which you must remember to insert a stainless steel sleeve.

Whatever the method of making a miniature stove or a potbelly stove with your own hands, you make them according to a drawing or by eye, the main thing is that at the output you get an effective heater, and in an expanded configuration also a hob for cooking. Look around for suitable materials (barrels, sheet metal, etc.) and go to your own homemade stove or even a potbelly fireplace!

Most of us have probably heard of such a stove as a potbelly stove. According to its design, it is a metal structure equipped with a chimney. Such ovens were very popular in the first half of the 20th century. But after some time, when gas stoves and a central heating system were installed in houses, they began to be forgotten.

Subsequently, they were remembered during the Second World War: in these years, when there was no central heating in apartments and institutions, potbelly stoves helped maintain heat in the rooms. These handicraft stoves are often used to heat dugouts, dugouts and wagons. In the 50s of the XX century, these stoves were remembered by the owners of summer cottages, who installed them in their garden houses. Today, they are still popular primarily as a means of heating utility rooms with an area of ​​​​10-15 square meters. m. They do an excellent job when used in garages, small country houses, greenhouses, etc.

The high popularity of potbelly stoves ensured their dignity, which they have in sufficient quantity:

However, potbelly stoves cannot be considered an ideal heating device. Therefore, getting acquainted with their advantages, it is also necessary to pay attention to the disadvantages. Although the heating of such an oven takes a minimum of time, achieved They don't keep the temperature for long.. For this reason, you have to regularly put fuel in them. In this regard, they are noticeably inferior to long-burning stoves, which do not need to be paid attention throughout the day. The amount of thermal energy generated by the potbelly stove is not enough to ensure a comfortable temperature in a large room. It has a rather small efficiency equal to 5-10%. According to this indicator, it loses to most modern heating installations.

How to increase the efficiency of the furnace?

This problem is relevant for many masters of industrial production and ordinary craftsmen. To get an idea about this process, you should first find out how the potbelly stove works, and familiarize yourself with some important points.

Chimney diameter

When using potbelly stoves, the main thing is to make sure that a smaller amount of flue gas comes out through this chimney compared to the volume produced by the furnace. If this problem is successfully solved, the gases will remain in the pipe and move through the furnace space a certain number of times. This will lead to air circulation, which is a prerequisite for fuel combustion. As a result, leaving through the chimney, these gases will already have a lower temperature.

This problem can be solved by determining the optimal chimney diameter. This may be the size three times the volume of the furnace kilns in cubic meters. However, in the case of gas circulation in a metal box, it will quickly lose its temperature.

In order to avoid rapid cooling of gases and to ensure their complete combustion, it is necessary to change the fuel combustion process so that it takes place in the pyrolysis mode. You can create it with the help of high temperature. Moreover, even if you try to use dry furniture as fuel, you will not be able to achieve the desired effect.

You can try to regularly add coal, but with the help of such raw materials it is impossible to create optimal conditions for the pyrolysis process. This is possible only on the condition that the furnace will operate in the smoldering mode and will naturally switch from one mode of operation to another. Now we come to the next important point.

Steel three-sided protective screen

It should be placed in such a place that it is removed from the body of the stove at a distance of 50-60 mm. Thanks to it, more than half of the infrared radiation will be reflected towards the furnace, which will ensure the temperature that the firebox needs. It is very important to choose the correct distance between the furnace and the shielding element, as this can significantly affect the economic component of the design. The use of wood and coal at the very beginning of the combustion process provides heat generation a lot.

Keeping in mind that the supply of firewood and coal is constantly in short supply, it is important to make sure that the very first portions of heat are in the room, and do not go into the chimney.

Among the currently known methods of heat transfer in terms of efficiency, there is no equal to convection. In practice, it is implemented in that, after heating the air near the stove, make it so that it spreads throughout the room. This problem can be solved using the screen.

Although the heating temperature of the lower layer of the potbelly stove is not so high, the heat still comes down from it. Because of this, there is a risk of fire in the room. For this reason, as the base on which the potbelly stove will be placed, it is necessary to use a metal sheet that provides removal 30-40 cm from the stove. Moreover, under it it is necessary to place an additional sheet, which can be made of asbestos or basalt.

It is worth noting that the potbelly stove is not able to 100% maintain the pyrolysis mode. This is due to the fact that after entering the chimney, the gases leave it without having time to give up their heat. This can be achieved if you correctly approach the device of the chimney pipe, choosing the most optimal design for it.

This problem is solved as follows: the design of the chimney must include a vertical part reaching a height of at least 1 meter. It should also provide for a layer of thermal insulation, which can be used as basalt wool.

A pipe should go from it, located at a slight angle and having a similar diameter. She has special name - boar. With its help, conditions will be created under which it is possible to ensure the combustion of gases, as a result, the heat supplied to the room at their expense will increase by 30%. In length, such bars can reach 2.5-4.5 meters. It should be placed no closer than 1 meter from the walls and ceiling. Between the bottom of the furnace and the pine forest there must be a space 2 meters wide. It would be useful to provide protection for it based on a metal mesh.

Ever since its appearance and popularization of the potbelly stove changes were made to their design.. As a result, today they are long-burning kilns, characterized by ease of operation and a high level of efficiency. The modern version of these furnaces no longer provides for grates, while an air choke appeared at the blower, the main purpose of which is to regulate the heat output and combustion mode. To ensure long-term combustion, air enters the fuel from above.

Among the various options for bourgeois stoves, cast-iron stoves demonstrate the highest energy intensity. Such devices could work even without a screen. It was this feature that was taken into account when it was decided to use them. for heating army barracks. In our country, they have long been engaged in the manufacture of army bourgeois, and there are no complaints about the quality of their work. These installations differ in many parameters, including dimensions.

We assemble a potbelly stove with our own hands

In terms of design, such a furnace includes a firebox with a grate, a blower ash collector and a chimney. Any building is suitable as a place for installing a potbelly stove. The main thing is that there should be an opportunity to bring the chimney out. If you have an empty gas cylinder lying around idle, then you should not get rid of it. You can find a use for it if you make a potbelly stove case out of it.

Materials for assembling the stove

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• steel grating;
• steel corners;
• chimney pipe;
• steel sheet;
• door.

Necessary take a gas bottle and mark the place in the upper part where the iron rim with the tap is located. It must be removed, for which you can use a hammer.

Then you need to cut a hole for the door, having calculated its dimensions in advance.

The corners will serve you for a frame under the door, for the manufacture of which you will need welding.

After the frame is welded to the cylinder, it is necessary to install the door on the bolts, for which at the beginning it will be necessary to make the necessary holes for them.

In a place corresponding to the bottom of the oven, you should cut holes for the grate, after which it must be welded. On the other three sides, it is necessary to install steel sheets using welding. They will serve as walls for the future furnace. The result should be a box with a door that does not have a top. The box must be welded to the bottom, and this must be done so that the open side is adjacent to the door. Next, you need to install a damper, with which you can change the mode of air supply to the furnace furnace.

To give stability to the stove-stove, it is necessary to weld the legs to the gas cylinder. A hole is made on the back side through which gas will exit the chimney. After that, they begin to assemble the chimney, providing for a turn in it, which will allow the heat to leave the room with a slight delay.

The above scheme is applicable for making a do-it-yourself potbelly stove based on a 40 liter milk can.

How to make a potbelly stove from sheets of steel with your own hands

The design of the firebox of such a furnace should include partitions that will save you from having to spend a large amount of fuel to maintain the operation of the furnace.

Furnace assembly materials

To make a similar version of a potbelly stove, you you will need the following materials:

The first thing you need to do for a do-it-yourself potbelly stove is a drawing that will simplify the task of making it for you. Next, you need to take the sheets and cut out elements for the stove body and two partitions from them. The latter must be installed in the upper part of the furnace, in the future they will provide a complex, winding path for flue gases, which will ensure a higher efficiency of heat generation by the furnace.

At the top, you need to hole for a chimney with a diameter of 110 mm. You also need to position the hole for the hob, the diameter of which should be 150 mm.

Next, we take the sidewalls and fasten them by welding to the bottom of the case. Steel strips 30 mm thick must be welded to the walls. They will serve as the basis for the lattice. It can also be created from a steel sheet, in which you must first make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. To create a grate, you can use reinforcing bars or purchase finished products in a store.

Conclusion

Although a potbelly stove seems to be a rather outdated version of a heating device, it is still remains in demand. In stores you can find many options for modern stoves, but it would be better if you make a drawing for it yourself. This will allow you to create with your own hands such a stove that will completely suit you in all respects. In addition, there will be no problems with this, given that such an oven has a simple design, and its manufacture requires affordable materials that can be found in almost every household.