How to keep the level on the ceiling. How to level the ceiling and how to do it right

From the author: welcome to our building portal, dear reader. If you decide to mount a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, be sure to read this article. Why? Because any work succeeds only when the appropriate preparation is carried out. How to mark the ceiling for drywall? That's what we'll talk about today.

The quality of all subsequent work depends on the markup. You should not have any difficulties with this; even with a significant curvature of the draft ceiling, the chances of doing everything right are very high, even for beginners. Of course, if you know how to use the appropriate tools. In general, read the article and shake your head.

General characteristics of the workflow

Marking the ceiling, first of all, is needed in order to determine the horizontal, that is, the position of the plane of the new ceiling. The other task is somewhat easier. It consists in drawing markings on the base. The frame will be subsequently mounted along these lines.

When drawing parallel lines on the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the step - 40/60 cm. And, of course, observe their parallelism with respect to the walls of the room and each other.

The plane should be located at a distance that can reach up to a meter (!) In some rooms, from the lowest point of the base on which the structure will be mounted. This distance may be due to the need to use insulation or some other factor. In general, cases are always individual.

Spatial placement also needs to be given due attention. Especially if you plan to mount a false ceiling in several levels. I believe, in general terms, it is clear what the marking of the ceiling under the frame is. Now let's talk about tools.

Equipment

Naturally, in the process of work, we will need some specific tools, the main of which is the building level. As we know, the most common are three types of levels:

• profile;
• laser;
• water (hydraulic level).

In particular, we will talk about them.

But we will start with the simplest. As we understand it, initially we need to determine the position relative to the floor slab. In other words, determine how many centimeters (or meters) the ceiling will drop.

This can be done even using a regular ruler. As a rule, in apartments and residential buildings, the floors are in the same plane. Therefore, we can simply put marks on the wall from the floor slab at a strictly specified distance every, say, 30cm. As we mentioned earlier, this distance can be a meter.

In many houses, the ceilings are not particularly flat. Therefore, in order to correctly determine the lower boundary of the suspended structure, we no longer need a ruler, but more accurate measuring instruments. This is where the building level comes to the rescue.

Profile level

First, we will talk about a simple measuring tool, such as a profile level. I assume that you have an idea of ​​what it is and how it works. The main thing is that the air bubble is strictly in the middle.

A source: http://gid-str.ru

You simply put the tool against the wall, and then draw a line along the length of the level - and so on around the entire perimeter of the room. Of course, the longer the level, the more convenient it will be to work.

Keep in mind that markings carried out in this way are only appropriate in rooms with a relatively small area. In an ordinary room of 15 m², this method is quite appropriate, but in larger rooms you will need a different tool, otherwise errors, albeit minor ones, cannot be avoided. In addition, the work will take a long time.

water level

Now this is another level! In every sense of that expression. This device consists of two test tubes with a scale connected by a long tube. The water level indicator is... what do you think? - H2O! Water, by the way, can be tinted so that it is more noticeable when working.

A source: http://gid-str.ru

There is nothing complicated in using the hydraulic level, but for work you will need an assistant with whom you will adjust the height of the test tubes. When you agree that the position of the indicator (water) is in the correct position, you have to put marks on the wall, and then connect them with a line. Everything is simple and natural, like H 2 O!

Laser level

This tool will greatly simplify and speed up the work. It saves you from having to measure lines, since a laser beam is a line. The instruction manual contains information on how to set it up and, in fact, use it.

Ceiling decoration performs not only practical and decorative functions.

Thanks to suspended structures and various types of lighting, the ceiling can serve as a zoning room.

Two-level and multi-level ceilings successfully cope with these tasks.

In fact, the questions “how to make a two-level ceiling” and “how to make a multi-level ceiling” have one answer. The principle of mounting a multi-level ceiling is the same, the difference is only in the number of levels and the shape of the structure.

Basically, multi-level ceilings are made of plasterboard, less often PVC, aluminum rails and other materials. The frame is made of metal profile.

Photo 1 - The original two-level ceiling

Training

Before proceeding with any work, it is necessary to consider the height of the structure and check whether it is possible to lower the ceiling so much. With a standard ceiling height in Khrushchev, two or more levels is too much.

To take away the height as little as possible, you can use the ceiling itself as a base level, but in this case it must first be leveled. After making sure that after the implementation of the project the ceiling will not put pressure on the head, you can proceed directly to the design and purchase of materials.

Since the design is complex, a detailed ceiling diagram is needed. It is desirable to transfer the planned design to sketches, drawings with dimensions will facilitate the calculation and installation of the ceiling. Design options can be modeled using computer programs.

Having finally decided what the ceiling will be, you can calculate and purchase the required number of profiles, suspensions, fixtures, dowels, anchors, self-tapping screws, drywall, lamps and other components for a multi-level ceiling.

Photo 2 - Two-level ceiling with beautiful lighting

Wiring

The first thing that needs to be done according to the ceiling project is the wiring to the lights and switches. The work must be carried out by a specialist, as it includes many nuances.

The section of wires corresponding to the calculated power of the devices is selected, the wires are laid in corrugations, the connections are made only in junction boxes. Spotlights are connected in groups, for luminaires designed for low voltage, a transformer is installed, etc.

Markup - how to beat off the ceiling level correctly

You can evenly set the level of the lower boundary of the ceiling using a water or laser level. The height of the structure is marked on the walls with a pencil, all its lines are transferred to the ceiling from the drawings. All lines along which profiles and suspensions will be mounted should be marked. Straight lines between points can be beaten off with a masking cord.

Photo 3 - Frame for the second level of the false ceiling

Frame installation

Installation can begin from the lower or upper tier. It depends on which part of the structure is larger.

For example, if the second tier is larger than the first, then it is more profitable to mount the second one first and vice versa. If the first tier is mounted first, then it can not be completely sheathed with drywall, but only a little more than to the border of the second tier, that is, only the visible part of the first tier is sheathed.

Let the base ceiling act as the first level, the frame of the second level is mounted. To do this, you first need to fix the profile guides on the marked lines on the wall and ceiling.

If the line along which the profile is mounted is bent, then two adjacent walls of the profile are notched and the profile is given the desired bend. Each of the segments of such a profile is separately attached to the base.

The next step is to attach the hangers to the ceiling using anchor dowels. Hangers are mounted every 60 cm above the places where the longitudinal profiles will pass.

Then, the frame of the side part of the second level is assembled separately: one guide profile is already screwed to the ceiling, now it is necessary to screw sections of the ceiling profile to the guide profile, which will be from below, equal in length to the height of the second tier.

To do this, they are cut off a little more than necessary, pieces of the sides are cut off on each side and a central wide ledge is left for attaching to the guide profiles. These protrusions are bent, a section of the profile is inserted perpendicularly into the guide profile and screwed to it with “seeds”. The step between these profiles with a straight structure is 60 cm, with curvilinearity - 2-3 times less.

The assembled part of the frame is lifted and the protrusions on the free edges of the ceiling profile sections are screwed to the guide profile on the ceiling. If the height of the second level is planned to be small, then you can do it easier - take a wide SD profile as a sidewall.

Photo 4 - Draft result of the installation of a two-level ceiling

Now you need to cut strips of drywall the width of the height of the second tier and attach them to the side with self-tapping screws.

At the end, the lower plane is sheathed with drywall, holes are cut for the lamps.

Where a bend is needed, drywall of the desired size is cut off, rolled on one side with a roller with needles and slightly wetted with water. After lying down a little, such a sheet is easily bent and attached to the frame.

If the second tier is attached to the first, and not to the base ceiling, then the fastenings should be carried out in those places where there is a profile behind the drywall. Therefore, during the installation of the first tier, in accordance with the schemes, embedded profiles are installed to install the second level of the ceiling.

Installation of a multi-level ceiling can be performed in different sequences and using different types of profiles.

Photo 5 - Delicate suspended ceiling of several levels for the nursery

Design of multi-level ceilings

Two- and multi-level ceilings will serve as a good decoration in any room from the corridor to the bedroom, but they are especially often used in the living room.

One of the most popular options is an open thin box along the perimeter of the ceiling with spotlights and LED lighting hidden in the depths.

The design of multi-level ceilings in the nursery can be the embodiment of children's drawings and cartoons. Huge drywall flowers or protruding circles of different sizes look interesting, which can be painted in different colors.

Do-it-yourself two-level ceiling, VIDEO:

Many are interested in the question of how to properly align the ceiling at home? Aligning the ceiling helps to get rid of defects and correct the appearance. But this is not an easy task, because the work is carried out at a height. The result depends on how correct the sequence of actions will be.

Where to begin?

This is a laborious process that consists of several stages. Their safety and complexity depends on how the ceiling is restored to its original appearance.

Here are just a few things to pay attention to:

1. The alignment of the ceiling begins with dismantling. The remnants of the old coating are easily manifested on the new, if at least some of them are left on the surface. When using a suspended structure, you should check the condition of the frame.
2. It is necessary to determine the height that the drops have. All changes on the surface are easily measured using a level.
3. The chosen method of alignment also depends on how difficult the preparatory work will be. Cleaning and priming should be the main operations.
4. If the irregularities are more than 5 cm, additional plaster is required.
5. A special putty solution is also applied to the wall in several layers. Before applying a new one, it is necessary to wait for the old one to dry.

Existing alignment methods

Calculating the height of the maximum difference will help determine the method of surface finishing. The execution technique depends on the height of the drops.

1. Experts advise using the dry method if there are irregularities of 5 cm on the surface. The main material for this method is gypsum fiber or drywall. Many prefer, but they are more suitable for public institutions. and stretch ceilings are also very popular.
2. Raw technique can be used if the height difference is not more than 5 cm. The surface is simply covered with plaster, and then putty in several layers.
3. The ceiling is puttied with two different mixtures, if the differences on the ceiling are very small.
4. Mixtures are best supplemented with a reinforcing mesh with differences of 2 cm or less.

The leveling method also determines how much material is needed to complete the repair work. The main thing is to choose quality ingredients, purchasing only from suppliers with a proven track record. Or in large stores, with their own storage facilities.

Additional Information

The use of putty and other special materials designed for this have their own advantage over the so-called "dry" method. They allow you to maintain the original height of the ceiling. Dry methods reduce the volume of the room as a whole.

Getting to work, measuring differences

Before leveling the ceiling, its surface must be completely cleaned of old materials. You can use ordinary spatulas to scrape off the old layer.

Ceiling cleaning

To measure height differences, you will need several tools:

1. Twine.
2. Building level,
3. Ladder.

It is better to take two assistants with you to measure the height as accurately as possible.

Attention! Many people think that differences of a few mm remain almost imperceptible. But lighting plays an important role here.

It is important to make the alignment of the ceiling qualitatively.

1. First we need the lowest point on the ceiling. We put a mark on it.
2. We draw a line around the entire perimeter of the room, using the building level.
3. The lines should connect to each other at the start and end points.
4. We take a string. We apply it to the line with one end, and the partner must apply the other end to the line on the opposite side.
5. The main thing is that the twine maintains a taut position.
6. You need to go through the entire ceiling, keeping this sequence of actions.
7. The third assistant should carefully monitor how the rope fits to the ceiling. With a marker, he makes marks in those places that require improvement.
8. We get a grid on which you can easily see the depth of the current drop.
9. We will use the grid in our future work. Then it will be easier to fix existing problems.

Hydraulic level

About Special Leveling Compounds

They are divided into two main groups - starting and finishing. And make it easy to level the ceiling with your own hands.

• Starters are needed in order to get rid of large flaws on the surface.
• It is important to carefully read the instructions before starting the practical use of the mixture.
• On the packaging, manufacturers write about the maximum allowable thickness for the leveling layer.
• You can safely purchase material if the ceiling indicators do not go beyond the specified parameters.

How to choose materials?

1. Many putty mixes shrink after they dry completely.
2. Plaster differs from this material in its coarse-grained structure. It can level the surface with a difference of up to 10-50 mm.
3. In some situations, a layer of more than 50 mm is required.

Experts are sure that in such cases, suspended ceilings will be the best solution. But you can get by with the “wet” method of alignment.

• Ordinary cement plaster is also suitable.
• You will have to wait 20-25 days - this is how long it takes for the layer to dry. Then it will be ready for further processing. This should be taken into account for those who are interested in leveling the ceiling with plaster.

Primer and reinforcement

Priming the surface is always the first step for those who are interested in leveling the ceiling. This will help to fix the surface and rid it of dust residues. The adhesiveness of the plaster will not decrease.

Ceiling primer

However, a special reinforcing mesh should be used before starting work if the differences are 20 mm or more.

Paint, ordinary metal mesh and other types of material are produced. The painting grid is also called sickle. To fix it on the ceiling, use a special glue. You can purchase material that initially has a self-adhesive layer. Such a solution would be appropriate for situations where the thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 25-30 mm.

Serpyanka

Lighthouses and their installation

Lighthouses will help to level the ceiling with your own hands in accordance with all the rules, even if the experience in performing repair work is minimal.

Any kind of ordinary gypsum is suitable for installing a beacon. This leveling of the ceiling will give the best results.

1. The first beacon is installed along the longest wall.
2. The lighthouse itself is easy to level using a special building level. They are fixed on a small amount of gypsum.
3. One end is placed on a reinforcing mesh. We make measurements, and then we fix the second side, with the same plaster.
4. We fix the side with the installed wire after the plaster dries. It is only necessary to adjust the wire itself so that it does not interfere with the repair work.
5. The second beacon is installed parallel to the first. Both beacons should be free to lay down the rule. To do this, it is important to maintain the correct distance between the parts.

Installation of beacons

Dry mix for plaster should be prepared according to the instructions from the manufacturer. It must be borne in mind that different compositions require different times for complete drying. Lighthouses will serve as an excellent reference point for those who have little experience in construction work.

How to level the ceiling with drywall

This method allows you to eliminate all irregularities on the ceiling, regardless of size. The only drawback is that after work, the volume of the room decreases. Therefore, this option is not very suitable for small rooms. The maximum possible concealment of space is 10 cm.

How to properly align the ceiling of such material? The sequence of actions looks like this.

1. It is necessary to prepare a frame from metal profiles, with the designation UD and CD. UD guides are attached around the entire perimeter, respecting the height. Then CD profiles are inserted into them. It is necessary to observe a step between them of 400 mm. The main thing is to orient the carrier profiles in the same plane as the guides.
2. One of the most crucial moments in this work is the manufacture of the frame. The location of the structure and its durability depend on this.

Frame for drywall

1. Let's move on to the frame. No complicated steps, just a few things to consider.

• The supporting profile must be located under each joint of the individual parts of the drywall sheet. The seams will simply crack after the putty dries if there are no jumpers.
• An important point is the direct fixing of the material. It must be fixed on all available profiles. The pitch for installing self-tapping screws is 150-200 mm.
• It is necessary to embroider all non-factory joints for subsequent puttying. They are chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees. This will allow you to seal the joints with high quality, so that later cracks do not appear on the surface.
• The longest seam between sheets should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The material is fastened apart, with a shift.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The seams between the individual sheets must be properly sealed after the frame is completely sheathed with drywall. To do this, use glue, sickle mesh. The seams are cleaned with an abrasive mesh after complete drying. Then they are primed and puttied, along with other work surfaces.

About alternative solutions

There are almost as many ways to level ceilings as there are varieties of ceilings themselves. The main thing is to understand what kind of material can be used in a particular living space.

Stretch ceilings are one of the best options for leveling floor slabs. At least this solution will get rid of the existing flaws. They are cheaper than drywall constructions.

The quality of all work related to puttying largely depends on the correct choice of spatula. The hardness of the canvas should maintain an average level. If the spatula is too soft, it will simply bend. The side edges will turn forward. Because of this, stripes will remain on the treated surface. A slight refinement of standard spatulas is allowed, due to which the end of the blade will acquire an oval shape. Work will be comfortable and safe. And the surface itself will retain quality for a long time.

Video: beacon alignment

Video: drywall alignment

Thus, we figured out how to properly level the ceiling with our own hands.

One of the most time-consuming work during the repair is the alignment of the ceiling. Many owners of apartments and houses strive to do everything with their own hands, so they should know how professionals cope with this task. With step-by-step instructions, it is easy to do the job as well as possible.

Choosing a way to level the ceiling

• dry;
• wet.

Each of them has its pros and cons. You need to choose a technique depending on the condition of the surface of the upper floor and the possibilities of the room. With the dry method, suspended structures are used that tightly close the draft ceiling.

The advantages of the method include:

• durability;
• aesthetic appeal;
• the possibility of arranging spot lighting and hiding various communications under the hinged structure.

But there are also disadvantages - for example, a suspended structure:

• reduces the height of the ceiling;
• requires the purchase of expensive materials (metal profile, plasterboard).

The wet method of leveling the ceiling consists in applying a plaster (cement-sand, gypsum, lime) mixture, with which height differences are leveled. The complexity of both methods is approximately the same. Choose the one that is most convenient in a particular case.

But it should be understood that it is not an easy task to qualitatively level the ceiling with the help of plaster mixtures. For those who have never held a spatula in their hands, it is better to consider the second option, that is, the dry method. With the help of plaster, it is difficult to prepare the ceiling for further finishing. Beginners in this business will need strong nerves and physical endurance.

Determining the height difference

Of considerable importance in choosing the method of leveling the ceiling is the magnitude of its height difference. To determine this indicator, use a laser or water level. If these tools are not available, a regular bubble level will do.

First of all, measure the height of the corners of the room and determine which of them is the lowest. From this corner to the opposite, pull the thread, making sure that it is located strictly horizontally. Thus, they find out how much one part of the ceiling is lower than the other.

False ceiling prices

suspended ceiling

Advice! In order not to look for the lower corner in the room, you can mark the level of the future ceiling from the threshold, it is most convenient to do this using, again, a laser level. The markup is done as shown in the image below.

Installation of beacons

If the height difference is more than 2 cm, it is necessary to determine the boundaries of a new flat ceiling. For this purpose, markings are applied to the walls with the help of chalk laces, and then they act according to the instructions.

Determine the lowest point of the ceiling.

In each of the corners, marks corresponding to this value are made.

Pull the cord between these points and beat off the lines along the walls.

Parallel lines are drawn on the ceiling, or they simply mark the beginning and end of each profile (in order to reduce the consumption of the plaster mixture, they try to lay the profile in places of recesses and protrusions).

According to the markings, screws are screwed in.

It will be convenient if we immediately write the lengths of the beacons on the ceiling, so that later we don’t climb and measure them again.

Pull a fishing line or strong thread between them.

The next step is the installation of beacon profiles. You can choose any: metal or plastic. Profiles are stretched from one wall to the opposite, focusing on the markup. The correct installation is controlled using a long bubble level.

Each beacon is attached to the ceiling by embedding in a plaster mixture, which is pointwise applied to the surface of the ceiling. The optimal step between the profiles is 20 cm. The correct installation of the beacons is also checked using a special tool - the rules.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Take a break from work for 5-6 hours. During this time, the plaster mixture will dry well. This is an important point that cannot be ignored. Otherwise, when leveling the ceiling, you can accidentally knock down the beacons and you will have to start installing them again.

Criteria for choosing a plaster mix

Three types of compositions are suitable for leveling the ceiling:

• based on cement;
• plaster;
• calcareous.

Cement is a conventional cement-sand mixture, which includes special additives that provide elasticity (plasticizers). This type of plaster is universal, as it is suitable for finishing any room. Due to its moisture resistance, it is successfully used for leveling surfaces in baths, saunas, and bathrooms. The disadvantages of cement compositions include weak adhesion to smooth smooth surfaces. In addition, working with these mixtures requires a certain skill.

Lime plaster is rarely used. It is easy to apply, but has a lot of disadvantages.

More specifically, lime plaster:

• fragile;
• short-lived;
• hygroscopic;
• unstable to mechanical stress.

The best choice for self-leveling the ceiling is a gypsum mixture. The most popular products are German-made: Fugenfüller and Rotband.

Prices for gypsum mixture "Fügenfüller"

gypsum mixture "Fügenfüller"

The table will help in choosing a mixture.

Table number 1. Popular brands of plaster for leveling ceilings.

Brand name	Brand	Material consumption for applying a layer 10 mm thick (kg/m2)	Pot life (min)
"Volma"	"Gypsum Active"	8-9	120
"Volma"	"Plast"	10	45
"Found"	"Gipswell MN"	9-10	90
"Found"	Gipswell T-25	9	90
"Knauf"	"Rotband"	8,5	90
"Knauf"	"MP-75"	10	120
"Eunice"	"Teploton"	8,5-9	50
"Prospectors"	"gypsum plaster"	8-9	20

Advantages of gypsum-based mixtures:

• the possibility of applying a layer up to 5 cm thick in one go;
• minimum degree of shrinkage;
• ease of application;
• plastic;
• low thermal conductivity (compared to cement-sand compositions);
• good vapor permeability.

Preparing the ceiling for applying the leveling compound

The process consists of several stages, consider the features of each of them.

Surface disinfection

The ceiling must be carefully inspected and made sure that there are no signs of mold or fungus on it. Otherwise, you will have to perform antiseptic treatment (disinfection) of the surface. For this purpose, solutions are used, which include copper sulfate or chlorine.

Usually people prefer such means:

• Pufas;
• "Deo-anti-mold";
• "Sepotosan-T";
• Belinka and others.

Burning the floor with a blowtorch will help get rid of the fungus. Treatment with solutions based on bleach or antiseptics will only give a temporary result.

Surface cleaning

At this stage of preparing the ceiling for leveling, the old finishing coating is removed: paint, whitewash, plaster, wallpaper. Depending on the type of finishing material, different removal methods are used.

Surface puttying

If, after removing the old coating, many cracks and irregularities have formed, it is worthwhile to close them with a quality putty. You can use the products of the company "Knauf" - "Shpachtelmasse" or "Uniflot". These compositions are elastic, adhere well to concrete and plaster, moisture resistant.

Putty is most conveniently applied with a spatula equipped with a square or rectangular blade. If there are many surface defects and they are located nearby, the excess composition is removed with a spatula with a wide blade. Thus, the preliminary alignment of the ceiling is performed.

Surface priming

Before applying the primer, the gaps near the pipes are filled with mounting foam. After it hardens, the protruding tubercles are cut off with a knife. In order for the primer to lie well, the ceiling surface is cleaned of small particles of plaster, cement, and dust.

Specialists use Betonokontakt by Knauf to prepare the ceiling. There are other compositions with similar properties, but the Betonokontakt primer has proved its superiority in practice: it is easy to apply, dries quickly, and gives the surface a slight roughness. The latter quality of the mortar is especially important, since the roughness provides better adhesion. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully working through all the recesses, corners, pipe installation sites.

putty prices

putty

If the surface of the top floor is fairly smooth, as is often the case with concrete slabs, notches are made before priming. Another option for ensuring high-quality adhesion of the ceiling to plaster is surface treatment with a sandblaster.

Rules for applying plaster on the ceiling

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	If the mixture is dry, it is diluted with water so that the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. Prepare such an amount of composition that it can be worked out in one approach.
	The plaster is laid on the ceiling between the lighthouses so that the space between them is completely closed on an area of ​​​​1x1 m2 (or less).
	They take a metal rule and level the solution with it, performing zigzag movements “towards themselves”.
	If depressions have formed, they are filled with plaster and re-leveled with a rule.
	If multiple coats are required, allow time for the mortar to dry.
	With a large height difference (more than 2 cm), each layer is reinforced with a plaster mesh: it is laid on the ceiling and lightly rubbed with plaster.
	If the layer is finishing, after applying it, take a break for 10-15 minutes and perform grouting: moisten the sponge in water and use it to give the treated area the maximum possible smoothness.
	Remove beacons.
	The resulting voids are filled with plaster according to the above technology.

To obtain a perfectly flat surface, grind with a trowel with a No. 150 or No. 170 mesh. After such processing, it is not required to apply a finishing layer of putty.

The nuances of working with gypsum-based compositions

1. Gypsum plasters quickly set, so it is recommended to prepare the mixture in small portions.
2. If a wet mixture is used in the work, the addition of water or other ingredients to it is unacceptable.
3. When applying, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the layer thickness does not exceed 2 cm, otherwise bubbles may form (under the influence of the weight of wet plaster).

Video - Leveling the ceiling with putty

Dry ceiling leveling

Dry alignment methods include:

• installation of suspended structures;
• stretch ceiling installation;
• installation of PVC panels or siding.

Each of these methods deserves attention, as it allows you to simultaneously close the draft ceiling and decorate the room beautifully.

The least attractive finish is siding, so this method is used much less frequently and is almost never used for the improvement of apartments and private houses. Siding installation is suitable for industrial premises, shops, kiosks, parking lots and other facilities.

Video - Finishing the ceiling with siding

Stretch ceiling can be installed with your own hands or with the help of specialists. For self-installation, you will need to buy a canvas (fabric or PVC film), a profile, fasteners (self-tapping screws and dowels). During the installation of the film ceiling, heating of the room is required, so you will need to buy or rent a sufficiently powerful heat gun.

Plasterboard suspended structures are easy to install, but you need to know all the rules for working with metal profiles and plasterboards. "Dry" techniques are not really equalization. They are full-fledged ways to install a new (often multi-level) ceiling.

Do-it-yourself false ceiling installation

Illustrated step-by-step instructions will help you quickly and accurately complete the installation of the false ceiling frame and make the plasterboard sheathing.

Drywall prices

drywall

Materials and tools

Each owner has all the tools necessary for installing a false ceiling - in particular, these are:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• square;
• metal scissors;
• level.

For cutting GKL it is convenient to use a jigsaw. But if this tool is not available, you can get by with a clerical knife. GKL is a pliable material, therefore, to cut the canvas, it is enough to draw it several times in the right place with a sharp knife, after which the sheet is bent at the place of cut and broken. Get a canvas of the right size.

All components required for mounting the frame can be bought at a building materials store. You will need a metal profile PN 28/27 and PP 60/27. The first is for mounting rails, the second is for mounting bearing supports.

The profile is fixed with hangers, which are of two types: a straight hanger and a shortened straight hanger. The first differ from the second only in length. These plates are necessary in order to firmly hold the frame planks at the desired height. To do this, they (suspensions) are attached to the ceiling using self-tapping screws, dowels or screws. The metal profile is inserted into the space between the perforated "whiskers" of the plate and fastened to them using SMM 3.5 / 51 self-tapping screws.

You will need a PP profile connector - single-level ("crab"). It is necessary in order to fix the intersections of the frame slats.

We draw up a scheme of a false ceiling

The simplest false ceiling diagram is freehand and clearly shows the location of each structural element, attachment points and connections. On this impromptu drawing, it is imperative to indicate all the distances that are determined as a result of measurements of the room. For the correct drawing up of the scheme, you need to know the maximum permissible values ​​\u200b\u200bwhen mounting each frame element.

1. Guides PN 28/27 are fixed to the walls with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-45 cm.
2. Suspensions should be installed no further than 50 cm apart.
3. The bearing profile PP 60/27 is placed parallel and perpendicular to each other at a distance of no more than 60 cm.

Depending on the dimensions of the room, the optimal points of attachment of the frame to the ceiling are found. For a single-level ceiling, the diagram may look like this:

For two-level - so:

Wall and ceiling markings

Proper marking is the key to an excellent end result. Therefore, at this stage of work, you need to be extremely careful. First of all, find out which of the corners of the room is the lowest. Relative to the found point, horizontal lines are drawn along the perimeter of the room. For this purpose, it is convenient to use a chalk cord, with which the walls are beaten off.

The ceiling is drawn with a marker in accordance with a previously drawn up scheme. Mark the fixation points of the suspensions and the lines of the carrier profile. If spot lighting is provided in the suspended ceiling, after marking, they proceed to the installation of the appropriate electrical wiring.

Mounting rails for plasterboard ceilings

Since GKL is a hygroscopic material, its dimensions will change under the influence of compressive-tensile forces. Visually, this process is invisible, but it must be taken into account when mounting the frame. To do this, there are a number of rules that must be followed.

1. If the bearing surface is uneven, that side of the PN 28/27 profile that is in contact with the wall is pasted over with sealing tape (for example, Dichtungsband).
2. The ceiling profile must not be pressed closely against the guide. Between them there should be a damper gap of 2-3 mm, which will compensate for the movement of the frame. They are inevitable, since the ceiling will be affected by compression-expansion forces caused by temperature changes.
3. When fixing PN 28/27 to the wall, a gap of 1-2 mm should remain between the screw head and the metal profile. It is recommended to use rubber or paronite washers.

Installation of a frame of a two-tier false ceiling made of plasterboard

The technology of a multi-level ceiling device depends on the complexity of its pattern. The main difference is that a single-level ceiling is a complex of load-bearing racks lying in the same plane, and a multi-level one is a three-dimensional structure that includes curved lines and metal profile figures.

During installation, special attention is paid to the accuracy of measurements and the correct fastening of the strips. To obtain curly elements, the side shelves of PP 60/27 are cut and the profile is bent very carefully so that a smooth line is formed.

The second tier may border on the walls. In this case, it is necessary to complete the entire range of work that was carried out during the construction of the first level (marking and installation of guides).

If the drawing of a plasterboard suspended ceiling provides for the central location of the figure, its frame is built directly in the right place on the ceiling.

Prices for recessed luminaires

recessed lamp

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The GKL sheets are attached to the bearing supports in increments of 20-25 cm. In the corners and bends, the distance between the self-tapping screws is reduced to 10-12 cm. After cutting the GKL, each sheet is chamfered where necessary. Such preparation of the canvases will allow you to properly lay and putty the reinforcing sickle mesh. It is needed to cover the seams and firmly connect the plasterboard sheets to each other.

For curly structural elements, you will need to bend drywall. To do this, it is carried out several times with a needle roller or shallow notches are made with a knife. Wet the canvas with water and wait for it to be absorbed, after which they begin to deform the sheet.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten GKL sheets. In the process, the sheathing sheets should be installed so that the gaps between them are minimal. Solid sheets are installed perpendicular to the long guide profiles. Docking of sheets is carried out in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fastening, work is best done by two people. Even during fastening, the sheets are recessed into the sheathing material by 2-3 mm.

The step between the screws should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of the sheets). Chips should not form on the edges of the sheets when screwing in the screws. If, nevertheless, it was possible to damage the material, the self-tapping screw must be removed, and a new one must be screwed in 3-4 cm.

Puttying a false ceiling is a simple and easy task. The composition is applied with a rubber spatula, trying to carefully fill all the gaps and attachment points of the screws. After the putty dries, its excess is removed with a sanding net.

Remove dust from the surface of the GCR. They admire the result of their labors and prepare for the final stage of work - finishing. The ceiling can be painted, wallpapered or applied to it with 2-3 layers of decorative plaster.

Video - Installation of a plasterboard false ceiling