How to make false ceilings. How to make a false ceiling with your own hands, photo, video, installation, installation

It is often necessary to think about what kind of ceiling to make in it, because you want this part of the bathroom to be beautiful, practical and durable. The following building materials can be used for the ceiling:

Plastic panels.
Drywall.
Clapboard.

Let's start with how to make a false ceiling in the bathroom from panels. There is nothing complicated here.

Why are we looking at panels first and not drywall? Of course, you can make a false ceiling from plasterboard. First you need to bring the material by truck, and then do the finishing - cover the seams and sheets with a mesh, apply and level the putty, paint. Of course, such a ceiling will be beautiful, but, in general, plastic panels look great too. Moreover, not everyone is able to do the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, but it is not difficult to mount the panels. Next, we will also consider options for the ceiling and drywall.

Advantages of plastic panel ceiling

A little about the advantages of plastic on the ceiling. He is not afraid of moisture and water - and this is the main requirement that applies to the ceiling in rooms with high humidity. The same drywall for the ceiling must be purchased only if it is moisture resistant, and such a sheet will cost more than usual. Unlike it, plastic panels of any type do not deform from moisture. In case of dirt, it is enough to wipe the material with a wet cloth, but drywall will probably have to be repainted. Even if negligent neighbors make a flood from above, there will be absolutely nothing plastic.

The advantage of plastic panels for the bathroom is that they do not get moldy, do not need additional finishing and can be easily replaced if necessary. In addition, there is always a wide choice of colors, thanks to which the bathroom will look aesthetically pleasing. Such panels can close the ceiling with any irregularities and other shortcomings. In addition, it does not take up as much space in height as a suspended plasterboard ceiling, and at the same time, electrical wiring can be carried out above the panels or even pipes can be hidden.

For the manufacture of plastic panels, polyvinyl chloride is used - a generally safe substance for human health, which is also used for the production of disposable plates and other similar products.

Mounting the false ceiling frame

Before marking the frame and starting the installation of the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the distance at which the suspended ceiling will be from the floor slabs or the old ceiling. If fixtures are installed, then a height of about 100 mm is required, or even all 150 mm. When you have decided on the height, you can start marking on the walls to attach the frame profile.

If the ceiling is even (you can check this with a building level), then you can not make a hanging frame, but fix the wooden slats directly to the ceiling, and then nail the panels to them with brackets.

How is markup done? A mark is placed on the wall in one of the corners, for example, 15 cm down from the ceiling. Then similar marks are made on other walls (using a laser or water level). One solid line is drawn along them, which will be the level of the bottom of the metal frame.

As for the profile, two types of profile will be needed - CD and UD. The UD profile is required for wall mounting, while the CD profile is required as a cross profile. It is easy to count the number of profiles. The wall profile has a length of 3 m, which means that you need to calculate the perimeter of the bathroom and divide the resulting value by 3. The situation is similar with the longitudinal profile. It should be located every 50 cm. By counting the total number of axles along which it will be attached and their length, you can similarly find out the number of CD profiles.

We mount the wall profile using dowels, and the longitudinal one - using self-tapping screws for metal of small size (the so-called "fleas"). In order to drill the wall for the dowels, you will need a hammer drill or a good impact drill with a Ø 6 mm drill bit. The step by which the wall profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws must be at least 40 cm.

When the wall profile is fixed, a longitudinal profile is mounted, connecting it to the wall profile and to each other with “fleas”. According to the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you will need special suspensions made of knitting needles or strips, with which you can fix the profile so that they do not sag. Given the light weight of plastic panels, they will not need so much.

When the frame is completed, do not forget to conduct electrical wiring for lighting the bathroom. A copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm², laid in a corrugation, is suitable for it. Attach the cable to the ceiling, not the frame. At the place where the lamp (or lamps) will be located, it is necessary to draw conclusions 25–30 cm long from the frame for the convenience of further connecting the wires to the cartridge. For fixtures, you need to consider mounting.

Panel mounting

Now the final stage of ceiling installation is the fastening of plastic panels in the bathroom. Work always starts from the edge. Briefly about the device panels. One side of it has a spike, and the other side has a groove into which the next panel is inserted with its spike.

The first panel is cut to length (or two panels are attached, one of which will be cut) and installed with a spike to the wall so that they are located across the frame profile. After that, it is fixed on this profile using small self-tapping screws with a washer, which are screwed into the spike and the bottom of the groove. After that, the next panel is inserted, but only the lower part of the groove is attached to it. According to this principle, the entire ceiling is mounted to the very end. The last panel is cut (if necessary) not only in length, but also in width, then it is fixed to the edge near the wall.

When all the panels are assembled, cornices are glued to the corners with the wall and ceiling, which will hide the seams between the plastic and the wall.

If the plastic panel is gaining in length, but at the same time its length is not enough for the entire ceiling, then it is necessary to supplement it with a segment of another strip. In order for the joint to be made correctly in this case, it is necessary to purchase a special mount, which has grooves on both sides so that the panel can freely enter them in width.

If it is necessary to cut the profile, this can be done with metal shears. The panel is best carefully cut with a hacksaw or a sharp construction knife.

The finished ceiling can be gently wiped with a damp cloth, after which you need to hang the lamps, fixing them on the ceiling. Having connected the wires to the cartridge, a light bulb is twisted into the lamp. We can say that this installation of the ceiling is completed.

A false ceiling made of plastic panels is quite easy to make, and it is durable - in the next ten years, you don’t have to worry about repairing the ceiling. In addition, by performing its installation, you can significantly save on repairs without losing the quality of the work performed.

In addition to panels, plasterboard sheets can be mounted on the ceiling in the bathroom. However, it should be noted that not all sheets will fit - in the bathroom you can use only moisture-resistant drywall, which would be able to withstand high humidity in the room.

A plasterboard ceiling is more difficult to install than a plastic panel ceiling. But its advantage is the excellent design and the ability to create a ceiling from several levels, if the height of the bathroom and its dimensions allow it. So, consider where the installation of the ceiling begins.

In a sense, the frame for a plasterboard ceiling is similar to the frame that is needed for plastic panels. Also, a guide profile is attached to the wall, longitudinal and transverse profiles are inserted into it, held on suspensions. But there are certain requirements for the step between the last profiles. So, the size of one sheet of drywall is usually 2.5 m in length and 1.2 in width. When creating a frame in the bathroom, these dimensions must be taken into account.

To install a plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom, some people prefer to purchase non-standard sheets or cut existing ones. In this case, the frame must be assembled, taking into account the dimensions of the resulting drywall sheets.

Sheets on the ceiling begin to be fixed from the edge, on one of the walls. Consequently, the two sides of the drywall along the length and width will be attached to the guide profile, tightly adjacent to the wall. The following profiles are arranged according to this scheme: the longitudinal profile, like the transverse one, should only go half way onto the sheet so that the next sheet can be fixed to its second half.

This means that the distance from the wall to the center of the profile at the junction of the sheets should be equal to the width of the sheet, that is, 1.2 m, or another value if the specified width has other dimensions. However, a distance of more than a meter without additional reinforcement is fraught with the fact that the sheet may begin to sag and even crack. Therefore, it is necessary to fix another longitudinal profile in the middle of the sheet, the center of which would extend 60 cm from the wall and at the same distance from the profile at the junction.

The situation is similar for length. The center of the profile, which will join the two sheets, should be in the middle, and between it and the wall it is necessary to place more transverse profiles - approximately every 60 cm (step). The joints of the longitudinal and transverse profiles are reinforced with suspensions. It is possible to strengthen not all joints, but through one - this will be enough so that the ceiling does not sag. According to this principle, the entire frame is recruited in the bathroom.

In some cases, if the bathtub is spacious and tall enough, homeowners may decide to have a multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling in their bathroom. In this case, it is necessary to recruit the top row of the frame, and then the bottom one, while both levels will be connected by a profile in those places where the vertical pieces of drywall will be attached. The optimal level height is 10 cm.

Before fixing drywall, you need to lay electrical wiring, after hiding it in the corrugation.

Recently, lining made from various tree species, such as larch, cedar and other wood, has gained considerable popularity. In addition to the fact that wooden lining is durable and durable, and due to impregnation, it is not afraid of water. You can tell she looks good. With the help of lining, you can create the appearance that the ceiling in the bathroom is made of perfectly even boards. And if you use a false beam, you will get the impression that the ceiling is made of wooden beams.

See how to make a slatted aluminum ceiling in the bathroom:

A photo

The time has passed when the ceilings in the apartment were inconspicuous and monotonous. Modern designers are trying not only to pay attention to ceiling coverings, but also to focus on them. An excellent solution for this would be the use of a false ceiling.

The design of the suspended ceiling is quite simple. In this case, a metal frame is attached to the base, which can be decorated with a variety of elements, such as panels, rails, slabs and plasterboard sheets. This allows you to make the ceiling not only functional, but also attractive.

Thanks to a wide choice of materials, you can create a false ceiling that will fully match the style and overall framing of the room. At the same time, small decorative elements can be used in the design, echoing the main chosen style. As a result of this approach, the ceiling will not stand out against the general background, but will begin to harmonize with it and complement it.

Creating a false ceiling is a creative process. Here you can fantasize about the blue endless sky or deep space with its bright stars and flying comets. Some people may like the modern style, while others prefer the classics. Regardless of this, for every idea, you can create a stylish false ceiling.

The undoubted advantage of such structures is functionality. Unlike simple ceiling coverings, a false ceiling can hide cables, cords, pipes, ventilation equipment and other important, but not the most aesthetic things, under a metal structure. In addition, in this way you can close the unpleasant flaws of the main ceiling.

Such ceiling panels are able to reduce the level of external noise, which allows you to maintain the inner silence of the room. In addition, the false ceiling prevents the penetration of cold air currents into the room, due to which the level of thermal insulation is very significant. With the help of a special reflective coating, you can use a smaller number of lighting devices, the illumination will always be normal. This method allows to reduce energy consumption.

The height of the ceiling in the room where the suspended structure is to be installed must be at least 2.5 meters. This factor must be taken into account, since when installing a false ceiling, the height of the room is significantly reduced.

What types of false ceiling are there?

Thanks to a wide range of types of suspended ceilings, you can choose the option that suits a wide variety of needs and embodies a lot of different ideas and ideas.

Plasterboard ceilings

This material lends itself perfectly to processing, so you can easily translate all your ideas into reality. To decorate the ceiling with drywall does not require a lot of skills and knowledge. Working with such material, you can create smooth lines and curves, curly cutouts and much more. If there is a desire, the ceiling can be made multi-level by mounting separate niches and ledges into it. You can decorate such a ceiling with lighting.

Variety of plasterboard ceiling finishes. Unique design solutions for different interiors.

Drywall consists of 2 sheets of flexible cardboard, the layer of which contains gypsum. It is because of such a simple structure that it becomes possible to create various decorative elements. During installation, drywall is attached to metal profiles, this is done for structural strength. Lamps are also installed here, what exactly they will be, does not matter much. It is better to stop at small sizes so that it is possible to evenly distribute them over the desired area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

All drywall sheets can be divided into several types:

GKL. Standard drywall sheets. Most often used when decorating the ceiling of a living room or bedroom;
GKVL or GVLV. They are characterized as waterproof drywall sheets, while the second type is considered more durable. Of course, ceilings made of such material are perfect for rooms with a high level of humidity, for example, such as a bathroom, pool and even a laundry room;
GKLO or GKLVO. If the room is considered a fire hazard, then it is better to opt for the first option. However, in the case when there is a risk of damage not only from fire, but also from water, it is better to choose the second option.

Installing such a ceiling is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. When a professional team is working, it is recommended that all outsiders leave the room, as there will be a lot of noise and dust. Alone, such a ceiling cannot be mounted. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg. It will be quite problematic to install it alone. In addition, all joints must be made perfectly so that subsequently cracks do not appear. Based on the foregoing, it is better to entrust the installation of a plasterboard ceiling to a professional team that will do everything efficiently and quickly.

Tiled ceilings

This option is more suitable for non-residential premises, such as offices or warehouses. The appearance here is more strict and concise. Straight lines emphasize formality and restraint. Decorative elements are rarely used in the design of such a ceiling, but the tiles themselves can be decorated in a variety of ways.

Most often, mineral fiber tiles with a thickness of about 2 cm are used. Despite the fact that in most cases square tiles of 60x60 cm are used, there are rectangular models of 60x120 cm. If possible, a ceiling design can be developed where both tiles will be used. This ceiling looks very impressive. The texture of the plates can be of different types: standard smooth, decorative cellular or unusual perforated.

The most popular type of tiled ceiling is the Armstrong system. The highlight of this type is an open metal frame. Thus, the profile becomes a kind of decorative element. Thanks to this design, the plates are installed easily, and at the same time they can be removed at any time if necessary.

Such ceilings have a lot of advantages: reliability, durability, easy installation, long shelf life. The cassettes do not require special care and can be changed independently in case of damage or a change in the overall design. They are water-resistant and fire-resistant, so it will not be difficult to wash them in case of contamination. However, despite all the advantages, a significant drawback is the high price of the cassette ceiling.

Slatted ceilings

Due to water resistance, some types of this design can be used in the bathroom, sauna or swimming pool. Due to the elongated oblong pattern, the room visually becomes larger and more spacious. Slatted ceilings look very impressive in large rooms, for example, such as a train station, airport or subway.

Ceiling slats can be made of both metal and polyvinyl chloride. Aluminum prevents corrosion and can last a long time. Such slats pass air perfectly, thanks to
which can be used in office space. Since aluminum is quite light, this design does not require a heavy and dense frame, which significantly saves not only money, but also installation time.

Plastic rails are easy to install and fasten to the base of the frame profile. In addition, they are easy to replace or correct in case of minor damage. After repair, they can be installed back without much effort. Plastic lining will look great on the ceiling, not only in the bathroom, but also in the hallway and even the kitchen. Due to the water resistance of the product, you should not once again worry about excessive moisture, you can even wash the ceiling in case of contamination.

How to make a false ceiling yourself?

After the design of the suspended ceiling is chosen, you can proceed to the preparatory stage and carry out the calculation work. The cheapest, and also the most optimal, option would be to create a single-level rack ceiling on a metal frame.

Consider the process of installing a false ceiling in the bathroom. Plastic lining is best suited for these purposes, since it perfectly withstands high levels of humidity and does not lend itself to deformation.

Necessary tools and materials

PVC plastic panels;
Guides and starting metal profiles;
Plaster;
masking tape;
Dowel-nails;
Standard hangers. If the ceiling needs to be released a little lower, then it is better to use hangers with clamps;
Self-tapping screws with a press washer;

A wide selection of materials for the manufacture of suspended ceilings allows you to create and translate into reality the most daring ideas of designers. Such a ceiling will perfectly fit into any interior, while its installation can be done independently, without spending a lot of time and money.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling. In my opinion, this is one of the fairly simple ways of arranging it. The instructions below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on the wages of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling device and necessary materials

Structurally, a plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and floor of the room, and then sheathed with plasterboard, after which it is decorated with decorative materials. The frame is single-level and multi-level.

If you have not made suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands before, I advise you to stop at the first option. It is about him that will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level frame, galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm are required. To connect them together, self-tapping screws for metal and single-level connectors (“crabs”) are used.

I will hang profiles from the ceiling on U-shaped brackets (“pawns”). You can replace them with spring suspensions. Brackets and profiles to the walls will be fastened with screws with plastic dowels.

I recommend using drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. If you are going to sheathe a room with a high level of humidity (, bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant green GCR. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling.

As for the tools, you will need:

perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
metal shears for cutting profiles;
laser or water level for marking;
drywall plastering tools.

The very process of installing GKL on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before you make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the ceiling and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be voluminous. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame on the floor slab and walls.

To do this, I usually perform the following steps:

I'm dismantling the old finish. It is necessary to tear off old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape off all of it. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

I do floor slab repairs. Before installing the GKL, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, with the help of a repair cement mortar or polyurethane mounting foam, large gaps and cracks must be repaired.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal from rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

Ground surface. This operation allows you to dedust the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed to work on a mineral base.

I install engineering communications. Before installing the ceiling, you need to take care of the installation of engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. The first I recommend making from plastic pipes. And put the wires in protective corrugations, which will save you from fire in case of a short circuit.

It is not necessary to bring the ceiling to the ideal and align it strictly according to the level. After all, this will be done with the help of a frame and drywall sheets.

Project development

Now let's take up the creation of a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They also calculate the amount of materials needed.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be equal to 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 = 18 meters. That is how much the UD ceiling guide profile will need. Naturally, take with a small margin, just in case something goes wrong. In addition, they will need to be nested in each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take the higher value.
Next, you need to calculate the number of carrier ceiling profile CD. In my case, it will be mounted at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600 / 50 cm = 12 pieces. This is for the case when the GKL will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall just on the bearing parts.
If you are laying plasterboard sheets across the room, the distance between the carrier profiles should be 60 cm (since the sheet is 120 cm wide). Then 600 / 60 = 10 pieces.
At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the carrier profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is 300 / 60 = 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. So 12 * 5 = 60 suspensions.
Remember that the first and last hangers must be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest - at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. They will need 24, that is, twice as many as carrier CD profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step guide for installing drywall

Sequencing:

I'm doing markup. First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and beat off a line on the enclosing walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has ledges-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or mark it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will later serve as a guide for fixing the UD ceiling guide profiles.

Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will later be needed to install screws with dowels.

The holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be 10 cm away from the cut of the profile. I make holes in the profile in advance so that later I don’t drill the part with a drill with a victorious tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

I mount guide profiles on the walls. To do this, I apply the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which I drill holes in the walls through pre-drilled holes using a perforator. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After that, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (naturally, with the attached profile). It is a plastic part with a thickening at the end, where a metal core is driven in.

Dowel size 6 x 50 mm. The dowel is driven in simply with a hammer. If you make some mistake during installation, you can then unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are inserted into each other, after which the junction is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to splice two elements (if its length is not enough for the whole room), you just need to put two guides one into the other. In this place, it is necessary to drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

I install load-bearing galvanized profiles. As I already mentioned, in my case, the plasterboard will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), after which make cuts along the side shelves with scissors, and then, bending and unbending the part, simply break it off. Then the upper ones need to be cut a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one profile piece is not enough, it is necessary to use two products, splicing them together with a connector, which can be bought at the store. If this is not at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is this:

I cut off a piece 20 cm long from the CD part (maybe a little less);
after that I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the sides of the profile;
then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile takes the form of the Latin letter W. This is clearly seen in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the trimmed profiles into the guides. To do this, place one end, then take the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products must be positioned so that their center (it is visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If you have a distance between the last bearing bar or wall of the room more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that CD-parts must be located so that the edges of the GCR must be placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the rails according to the markup, they must be fixed with self-tapping screws. I use one self-tapping screw per profile on each side. Self-tapping screws can be screwed with a screwdriver.

I install transverse elements of load-bearing profiles. Here, too, I will start with the markup. Considering that I will put the drywall sheet along, I need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the corresponding risks on each carrier profile. To do this, it is better to use a marker, since the pencil draws poorly and is poorly visible on galvanization. You get this markup.

To connect two frame elements at the same level, a special part is needed, which is called a “crab” in the common people. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed on the CD profile.

These crabs must be inserted into already installed parts, guided by pre-applied marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is desirable to fix it on the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this, the parts have the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length must correspond to the distance between the carrier profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The end crossbars are inserted into the carrier profile mounted on the wall. The result will be the design shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be GKL junctions. In my case it is two rows. Everything will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the principle of installation will remain the same.

It happens that you incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for installation. Then you can fix a few details without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm longer than the distance between the guides;
then you should cut off the side shelves in such a way that tongues form from the wide edge (their edges must also be cut at a slight angle).

Then this part can simply be screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orient yourself along the central stiffener. In principle, using this advice, you can completely abandon the use of crabs. This will not affect strength in any way.

I fix the frame on the concrete floor. Without this, the drywall construction will not hold securely, since its length is large enough. For fixing, U-shaped perforated suspensions are used, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

Suspensions should hold long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the details with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places, you need to make two holes to fix the bracket. In order not to be mistaken, you can attach a bracket, and then make holes. As a result, it will turn out like this:

To fix the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel-nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch chopsticks. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the hangers. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that I have to use two suspensions, placing them on both sides of the carrier profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all the hangers on the ceiling without attaching them to the carrier profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be leveled relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their weight.

Now I’ll tell you how you can easily align this entire structure:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and fix it in this state to the hangers using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary mount, which will then be removed.
Then you need to fasten the cord. A screw with a string attached to it is screwed into the guide near one wall, then it is pulled through the entire room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap forms between the rope and the frame.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and still form a gap needed for alignment.
After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile with a guideline and fix it on the hangers. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not violate the plane formed by the stretched ropes.

This process of leveling the surface takes up most of the time required to install the ceiling. But it must be carried out carefully and without haste, otherwise you will get a curved surface.

One more moment. If after mounting you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them. Cutting is optional.

I am insulating the surface of the ceiling. You can also omit this step if ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of a soundproof layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foam foil 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough so that thermal energy is not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case is to fix the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The way out for me was shoe glue.

You can, by the way, replace it with liquid nails. Well, another alternative is to use double-sided tape.

I glued the lower surface of the profiles with glue, and then those sections of the foam that will be glued. After that, he completed the installation of the heater. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the living room. All this is clearly visible in the photo.

I fix sheets of drywall on the profile. It is better to do this with a partner who will hold the sheets during fastening. But I will tell you further how you can still manage only on your own.

In this case, for work, you will need two props in the form of the letters T (well, or mops). Their length should be such that, in a vertical position, they practically rest against the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the gypsum board). A support of the simplest design is shown in the photo.

How to use this mop:

First you need to install the mop against the wall in such a way that a gap is formed between it and the ceiling, where you can place a drywall sheet in thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
After that, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (bottom) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should stick tightly against the wall and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Raising it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the frame made earlier.
As a result, the drywall sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the way shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame using drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the GKL with your hand nearby. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into the profile, the sheet may slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that it will collapse from your supports.

The head of the screw after screwing should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be sunk a little deeper, but at the same time not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

Similarly, the installation of all other sheets is performed.

I am finishing the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the heads of the screws are visible, as well as the junction of drywall sheets (a fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams - sickle).

Want to spice up your space but don't know where to start? Do-it-yourself false ceiling (or suspended) is a great way to transform a room at minimal cost, and step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you install it quickly and efficiently. By doing repairs yourself, you get much more satisfaction, both from the process and from the end result.

The decisive factor in the interior is simplicity and beauty, as well as an affordable price. In the current conditions, when building materials hit the wallet, repairs turn into real money laundering. Suspended ceiling requires little expense, and it is also easy to do it yourself without resorting to calling craftsmen for an additional fee.

What materials are suitable:

Drywall;
PVC or MDF panels;
Ceiling tiles;
Armstrong panels;
Metal modules;
Rack plates.

The last three options are the most expensive, so it makes no sense to talk about them in detail. But it is worth noting the lining of drywall, PVC panels (or MDF) and ceiling tiles.

Suspended ceilings made of these materials can most often be found in the apartments of Russians. The design for all materials is the same and does not differ significantly.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing suspended ceilings

Repair should begin with an assessment of your capabilities: both physical and material.

Do-it-yourself installation of suspended ceilings can be conditionally divided into 4 stages:

Design;
markup;
Installation of the box (frame);
Finishing.

Do-it-yourself installation of suspended ceilings does not require specific knowledge in the construction industry, but it will still take several days to do everything correctly and efficiently.

It is not difficult to install it yourself, the main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions and know some of the nuances.

Design of suspended ceilings

Points 1 and 2 are needed for a rough understanding of the sequence in which the installation will take place, and how it will look in the end. At the first stage, the height of the structure is estimated. This is necessary in order to calculate the required space for placing lamps and communications. If you can't visualize what you want, use design software. There are a great many of them on the Internet.

Modeling programs are presented on the Internet and are available for download free of charge.

Marking for suspended ceilings

Having a "diamond eye" is good, but it's better not to trust your ego and do everything in accordance with technology. Preliminary marking on the walls is needed to determine the level of the future ceiling.

The following tips will help you make the right marks:

Draw a line at an arbitrary height using a laser level;
Find the lowest point on the surface by measuring the distance from the drawn line to the ceiling;
Set aside the length you want to lower the ceiling and mark down;
Draw a new horizontal line, starting from the previous mark.

In the repair, everything must be clearly planned. Mistakes can cost money, which will be required for restoration or rework. It is better to use the saying “measure 7 times - cut 1 time” than to regret the money and time spent later.

Perform the markup efficiently and accurately, following all the recommendations. If you draw the lines incorrectly, the design will become crooked and will have to be redone.

Frame installation

The process of manufacturing a structure for further cladding is nothing complicated. You need to purchase the necessary materials and proceed with the installation. In this case, we will talk about a metal frame. This type is considered more durable and durable than wooden slats.

The metal frame is reliable and simple. In the case of installing wooden slats, additional processing of the material is required. This option is not suitable for urban apartments.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a metal frame for suspended ceilings:

Profile guides are attached to a horizontal line on the wall (delayed height) using dowels, self-tapping screws or anchors;
The metal frame is installed around the entire perimeter of the ceiling;
The profiles are reinforced with special suspensions so that in the future the structure does not sag and lose its appearance;
The metal frame is connected to the hangers and is adjusted in the same plane horizontally;
Before the final cladding, you should make sure that all the technology has been followed correctly and the structure is securely fixed to the ceiling.

Making the frame is the most difficult part of the entire installation. This is followed by cladding with your chosen material (MDF or PVC panels, drywall, Armstrong or polystyrene boards) and final processing (painting, installation of lighting equipment).

Detailed video installation instructions are presented on the Internet for the best understanding of what you have to deal with. Review them in advance so that questions and disputes do not arise in the process.

Final work on the installation of suspended ceilings

If you have chosen Armstrong panels, then they are simply installed in pre-made sections in the structure. If drywall is preferred, then with the help of self-tapping screws, the sheets are attached to metal profiles and finished with putty, followed by painting. MDF and PVC panels require fastening to the frame with hardware. After completing the final work, all that remains is to admire your own creation and accept well-deserved praise.

Benefits of suspended ceilings

When deciding to make repairs and choosing one or another type of material, you should weigh the pros and cons and make the right choice. The name "suspended ceiling" speaks for itself. Its design is attached to the main surface with the help of suspensions at a certain distance.

There are many arguments in favor of suspended ceilings. The most significant pluses are:

Installation is easy to do by hand;
The design hides the flaws of the ceiling (bumps, cracks), as well as ugly communications and wires;
The surface is perfectly flat;
The coating does not accumulate condensate;
Specific surface care is not required (most materials are dust-repellent, which means they simply do not get dirty);
The color range of coatings allows you to choose an option for any room with a wide variety of designs;
Possibility to install lighting fixtures in any order.

Describing the advantages, one cannot but mention the most important drawback of such structures - this is a significant height fence. For installation, a significant sacrifice of space is required. Of course, this is not such a big minus, but you will have to forget about chic chandeliers. This problem is especially acute in small-sized old layouts.

How to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands (video)

Suspended ceilings are an inexpensive but beautiful way to transform your home. Given the number of advantages and minor disadvantages, the choice in favor of this option is definitely worth making. The huge popularity of this method can be explained by the fact that the installation of the structure is easy to do independently and without huge material costs.

Entering any room, the first thing that one way or another comes into view is the ceiling. The overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes depends on its design and appearance. It is for this reason that designers are trying to pay special attention to the ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence of plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique false ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability of building materials allows you to create a false ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a false ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more helpers.

Principal device of a suspended ceiling

The design of suspended ceilings is a single-level or multi-level metal frame attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is sheathed with plasterboard sheets with built-in lighting fixtures.

To create the frame, galvanized metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (import analogue of CD and UD) are used, the parts of which are interconnected by metal screws and special one-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To fasten the frame to the ceiling, direct or spring suspensions are used, fixed to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.

For sheathing a metal frame, a plasterboard sheet (GKL) is used with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm. GKL is fixed to the metal frame with self-tapping screws for drywall. Recommendations for choosing gypsum boards of just such parameters are due to the optimal combination of strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to the technology, the total weight of 1 m2 of the structure will be about 13 kg.

Preparatory work: stages

As with any other construction work, before making a false ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, the creation of a design project and a suspension scheme, the calculation of the necessary materials.

Prepare the floor surface

The surface of the ceiling must be carefully prepared: remove the old finish, repair

Although the suspended ceiling will hide the floor surface, a number of preparatory work will have to be carried out. This will facilitate the installation of the ceiling and ensure reliable fastening of the entire structure. We begin work with the removal of the old finish, which we completely remove to putty or plaster, and if there were none, then to the ceiling. After that, we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely exfoliated putty or plaster.

If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to perform a more thorough repair, perhaps even re-plastering the ceiling. Ideally, you should get a solid and even surface to which the metal frame will be attached.

Design project and false ceiling scheme

The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, the creation of such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to consider and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.

About what suspended ceilings are our video - review:

In addition, computer programs will allow you to create and print a false ceiling diagram with all the necessary materials and their quantity. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper, will have to work a little harder. Creating a scheme and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:

the first thing you need for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room with a size of 3x5 m. P \u003d (3 + 5) * 2 \u003d 16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale on paper;

An example of a false ceiling scheme

Important! When measuring the room, you can find that the opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.

The next step is to calculate the frame profile. The supporting frame will be made of profile PP 60/27, which is attached to the ceiling with a step of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. The number of slats is calculated as follows 3000/600=8.3 and rounded up to a whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the GKL has a standard width of 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;

now you need to calculate the number of suspensions. All suspensions are attached to the ceiling with a step of 600 mm. All planks of the frame profile will require (3000/600) * 8 = 40 hangers. We fix the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. In the diagram, the place of their attachment is marked with crosses;

Important! Direct suspensions can be used in two cases. The first - when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second - when the floor surface is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring suspensions and constantly monitor the horizon with a level.

to stiffen the suspended ceiling structure, it will be necessary to additionally install jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main bearing bars with a step of 600 mm. For their fixation, a special connector is used - a crab. The calculation of the number of connectors is carried out as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40. The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is already the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, connecting them with a solid line, we get the place for installing the jumpers.

Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. So, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and the total height of the profile with the GKL will be 27 + 9.5 = 36.5 mm. The height of the profile and GKL with a two-level connector will be 27 + 27 + 9.5 = 63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose, it is up to the master to decide.

It remains to calculate the required number of drywall sheets. Everything is extremely simple here, knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe room 5 * 3 \u003d 15 m2, and the area of one sheet, for example 2.5 * 1.2 \u003d 3 m2, we get 15/3 \u003d 5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:

for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and self-tapping screws 6x60 are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
to fix the profile and suspensions, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and suspension, 2 screws are needed, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
self-tapping screws MN 30 are used to fix the GKL. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.

At the end, it remains to plot the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.

How to make a false ceiling yourself

How to install a suspended ceiling with a list of various installation options, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will consider the simplest installation option that can be done on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.

Working with a marker and tape measure

Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the overlap is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the drywall sheet. We put 3-4 marks along the entire length on each wall, then we take a paint thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guide for the guide profile PPN 28/27.

Now we mark the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and hangers. We retreat from the walls the required distance, put a few marks and beat off the line with the help of a paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other slats of the carrier profile with a step of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile, we outline places for direct suspensions, as shown in the diagram.

Mounting the ceiling frame

We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for drywall sheets

Having finished with the main markup, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with the guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a puncher or drill in our hands and drill holes for 6x60 dowels along the previously drawn line. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, we drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the holes obtained and screw the PPN profile into place.

Important! In the process of installing a false ceiling, you will have to screw in various self-tapping screws and screws a lot, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all the work.

The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at a right angle relative to it. We outline a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and fasten the suspension. We repeat the whole procedure for 40 suspensions.

Important! The suspension can be fixed with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable the structure you want to get.

Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the hangers down so that the profile freely enters between them. We start the profile inside and at the required height we fix it on the sides with metal screws.

Example: what a frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like

Having fixed all the profile strips, we take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we start them from the top of the profile with the antennae down and press firmly down to snap inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting the jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, use a grinder or metal shears and cut the whole profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main slats. Having cut the required amount, proceed to installation. We start the jumper from below under the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles with 4 screws.

The frame installation is completed. You can equip heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.

GKL surface cladding rules

We mount plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: drywall boards are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws

We apply drywall sheets to the prepared frame and fasten them to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the GCR lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this, you will have to cut some, but this is done very easily. First, the cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the gypsum is carefully broken and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.

After installation, you first need to putty the butt joints and the installation sites of the screws, then cover the entire ceiling with a putty mixture

Video guide: installation of the Knauf ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of a false ceiling is completed, it remains to complete the finishing. To do this, we carefully putty and level all joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, after which we apply the finishing layer of finishing materials. Finally, we install lighting fixtures. All work on the installation of a false ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the technology of work.

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