How can food spoilage be prevented? How to stop wood rotting Rotting wooden house.

Accent placement: ROTTEN WOOD

ROOT OF WOOD, biological decomposition of wood by wood-destroying fungi.

G. d. is possible only under certain conditions favorable for the development of wood-destroying fungi.

depends on what enzymes the fungus acts on the wood, what components of the cell membranes and in what sequence it destroys. Depending on the characteristics of the process, G.

related to biol. properties of wood-destroying fungi and the nature of their impact on cell membranes, distinguish between destructive and corrosive types of G. d.

With the destructive type of G. d.

only polysaccharides decompose: cellulose, hemicellulose, etc. The destruction of cell membranes proceeds gradually. The intensity of wood decomposition depends on the content of lignin in it: the less lignin, the more it is destroyed.

The fungus acts with enzymes on the entire wood mass, leaving no tissue areas unaffected by decomposition. As a result, the volume decreases and the structure of all affected wood is disturbed: it cracks, crumbles, and in the final stage of decay, it is easily ground into powder. Gradually (as lignin is released during decay), the affected wood takes on a light or dark brown color with a reddish or grayish tint (brown destructive rot).

With corrosive type G.

e. both the polysaccharide complex of cell membranes and lignin decompose. However, when affected by different types of fungi, this process proceeds differently.

In some cases, the fungus simultaneously decomposes lignin and polysaccharides, so holes quickly form in the cell membranes, which gradually increase, merging with the holes in the membranes of neighboring cells. As a result, whole groups of cells are completely destroyed, and voids appear in the affected wood, filled with the remains of white, undecomposed cellulose (variegated corrosive rot). In other

In some cases, the lignin gradually dissolves first, then the pectin layer dissolves, and only after that does the decomposition of cellulose and other polysaccharides begin, with part of the undecomposed cellulose remaining in the voids of the wood in the form of white accumulations (the so-called

"blooms"). In the final stage of destruction, the wood brightens evenly or in stripes, acquiring a white, light yellow or “marble” color (white corrosion rot). With corrosive type G.

etc., in contrast to the destructive one, not all wood pulp is completely decomposed: separate groups of destroyed cells alternate with untouched areas of wood. Therefore, such rot is characterized by pits, holes, voids of various shapes and sizes. With corrosive rot, wood splits into fibers, crumbles, but retains viscosity for a long time, and its volume does not decrease.

The structure of rot depends on the type of G., which reflects the nature of the anatomical changes.

buildings and physical properties of the affected wood. Destructive rots are characterized by a fissured prismatic, cubic or powdery structure, corrosive - pitted, pitted-fibrous and layered-fibrous.

Stage G. d.

serves as an indicator of the degree of destruction of wood in the process of decay. Each stage is characterized by certain changes in the color and structure of the affected wood. Distinguish I, II and III stages of G.

d. In stage I G. d.

hyphae of the fungus spread Ch. arr. in the medullary rays and vessels, almost without affecting the shells of wood cells.

Under the action of fungus secretions, the wood darkens, acquiring a reddish-brown, olive or lilac-gray hue. Physical and mechanical

the properties of wood are almost unchanged. In stage II, intensive destruction of cell membranes occurs, and, depending on the type of decay, small cracks or pits appear in the affected wood. The growing mycelium of the fungus forms creamy white films or dark-colored clusters in the form of characteristic lines, strokes or dots.

Physico-mechanical the properties of wood deteriorate sharply. In stage III, the process of destruction of wood pulp is completed and the structure and color characteristic of one or another type of rot are fully manifested.

Affected wood becomes very light, breaks into separate pieces or splits into fibers. In heart rot, stage IV is also distinguished - the formation of a hollow. Determination of stage D.

d. is important for assessing the capabilities of technical. use of damaged wood.

G.'s speed characterizes duration of separate stages and all process of rotting.

Great practical. Important, especially when assessing the impact of rot on the output of commercial assortments, is also the rate of spread of rot in tree trunks, logs or wooden structures of buildings and structures per unit of time (day, month, year). For example, the spread rate of fungus root rot in spruce trunks averages 48 cm per year.

The rate of decay and the rate of spread of rot depend on biol. features of the causative agent of rot and the affected tree species, physical. properties of wood, external conditions.

However, these indicators are not related to each other. For example, a spruce sponge and an oak tinder fungus cause equally rapid G. d., but rot from a spruce sponge spreads very quickly in a spruce trunk, and rot from an oak tinder fungus in an oak trunk - slowly.

Ripachek V., Biology of wood-destroying fungi, [transl. from Czech.], M., 1967.

Sources:

Forest Encyclopedia: In 2 volumes / Ch. ed. Vorobyov G.I.; Ed.

coll.: Anuchin N.A., Atrokhin V.G., Vinogradov V.N. and others - M .: Sov. encyclopedia, 1985.-563 p., ill.

Rotting is the decomposition of wood cellulose, which occurs as a result of the activity of wood-destroying fungi and microorganisms.

Forest fungi infect a growing tree and are rarely found in timber, as the infected parts of the trunk are separated when sorting the forest.

House mushrooms affect not only wooden structures, but also organic building materials (fibreboard and chipboard, reeds, etc.).

The most dangerous of house mushrooms are the so-called real house mushroom, white house mushroom, filmy house mushroom, etc. These mushrooms infect both coniferous and hardwood wood.

Ways to prevent decay are aimed at creating conditions unfavorable for the development of wood-destroying fungi.

Since mushrooms develop at a certain humidity, the main way to prevent decay is to use dry wood for wooden structures that are in the air and protect it from moisture in the future. This is achieved by laying waterproofing between wooden elements and other parts of the building, using appropriate paint compositions (lacquers, enamels, oil paints). Of great importance is the creation of conditions for natural ventilation, which ensures constant ventilation of wooden structures and prevents the accumulation

moisture in wood. However, it is impossible to protect the wood from moisture when the wooden structure or part of it is subjected to systematic alternating wetting and drying under operational conditions. In these cases, the main method is the chemical method of combating decay - the introduction of antiseptics into the wood - substances that are poisonous to fungi.

Antiseptics, being toxic to fungi, must be harmless to humans and animals. Antiseptics are used that do not reduce the strength of wood and do not cause corrosion of metal fasteners. In addition, antiseptics must be preserved under operating conditions.

For air conditions, water-soluble antiseptics are usually used. Antiseptic treatment of wooden elements exposed to water (sleepers, poles, piles, etc.) is carried out with insoluble oily substances.

Antiseptic pastes are used as coatings to protect wooden structures from decay at high air humidity, as well as for elements located in soils with variable humidity. The paste applied to the surface of pillars or other elements in contact with the ground is protected by waterproofing (roofing paper, roofing material, etc.).

Those places of the wooden structure that are damaged by wood-destroying fungi or insects are treated with potent antiseptics. Rotten wood is removed and burned to avoid contamination of healthy wood.

Wood can be sterilized by irradiation with cobalt rays according to a certain regime. The use of radiation methods is possible only with strict enforcement of labor protection rules.

The improvement of installations for sterilizing wood with hot air (at 100°C), which causes the death of fungi and insects, will help preserve wooden structures in use.

Wood preservative methods are used depending on the type and service conditions of the structure.

Surface treatment is carried out with aqueous solutions of antiseptics, which are applied to the surface of wooden

elements with brushes or sprayers for 2-3 times. The depth of impregnation of wood in this case is 1-2 mm (it is easy to determine if the solution is tinted, for example, with aniline paint). A greater depth of impregnation is obtained by immersing wooden elements in a bath with a cold or heated antiseptic solution.

Impregnation in hot-cold baths is carried out in a certain sequence; first, the dried wood is immersed in a hot antiseptic (with a temperature of 90-95 ° C) and kept in it for several hours. During this time, the wood heats up and the air in its pores is partially removed. Then the wooden elements are transferred to a bath with a "cold" antiseptic (20-40°C).

When cooled, the air in the pores is compressed and, under the action of the resulting vacuum, the antiseptic is sucked into the wood. For impregnation, water-soluble and oily antiseptics are used. The method of hot-cold baths allows you to impregnate pine wood to the entire thickness of the sapwood.

Pressure impregnation is carried out in autoclaves. The material is loaded into an autoclave, which is hermetically sealed.

First, a vacuum is created in the autoclave and the material is held until air is removed from the wood. Then the autoclave is filled with a heated antiseptic and the pressure in it is increased to 0.6-0.8 MPa, after which the pressure is reduced to normal, the remaining antiseptic is released and the antiseptic material is unloaded from the autoclave. This method is used to process wooden elements in contact with the ground, concrete or masonry.

Impregnation in a high-temperature bath (developed by AI Folomin) combines the processes of drying and impregnation of raw wood.

Coniferous or hardwood materials are placed in a bath with coal oil (or other equivalent antiseptic) heated to a temperature of 160-170 ° C, at which moisture (in the form of steam) and air are quickly removed from the wood. This greatly facilitates the penetration of the antiseptic into the wood when it is immersed in a bath with an antiseptic temperature of about 100 ° C. Drying wood in a high-temperature liquid medium avoids cracks and achieves complete wood sterilization.

Diffusion impregnation occurs when the water-soluble antiseptic contained in the antiseptic paste gradually dissolves and impregnates the wood due to slow diffusion movement. Parts of wooden structures that are subject to periodic moisture (ends of wooden beams and girders, supporting parts of trusses, etc.) are covered with a layer of bitumen-silicate or extract paste containing NaF, Na2SFg.

Rotting wood is the price that nature sets for the organic origin of this wonderful ecological building material.

Rotting wood occurs due to a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms.

Causes of putrefactive processes, their types and stages

The biological destruction of wood is triggered in the following circumstances:

Rotting wood is often due to dampness.

damp and warm climate; presence of oxygen access; internal humidity of the wood itself is above 18-20%.

With a destructive type provoked by a larch sponge, sulfur-yellow, bordered and other tinder fungi:

When wood decays, cracks appear.

The wood becomes smaller in volume. Cracks appear. The color of the wood changes from reddish to brown and dark brown. The structure of the wood becomes brittle. The wood breaks up into pieces in the form of cubes and prisms, and then it crumbles into powder.

With corrosive putrefactive damage:

The wood does not lose its viscosity and volume. The destruction is partial and alternates with healthy zones. Cells and pits first appear in the wood material, then it begins to delaminate into fibrous layers. The color of the wood affected by fungi becomes variegated (white foci on a brown base) or very light (white , light yellow or marble).

Variegated rotting is caused by fungi such as sponges (pine, root, spruce) and tinder fungi (oak, spruce butt). White color is caused by honey agarics and tinder fungi (flat, false, real).

Stages of the destruction process

Destruction of wooden poles under different conditions: a - in sandy soil, b - in dense clay soil; in - a pile in a reservoir.

In order to assess whether it is possible to use the affected wood for technical purposes, it is necessary to determine at what stage of decay it is. The process of wood decay goes through 4 stages:

Initial.

Mushroom mycelium does not affect the shell of the tree. Wood still retains its structure, strength, only changes color to olive, lilac-gray or red-brown. Developed. There are cracks or holes in the wood.

On a brown background, light stripes appear, films of mycelium. Final. The tree completely loses its strength, crumbles or is divided into chips. The color fully corresponds to the type of decay. Mechanical destruction of wood, the formation of a hollow.

When working with wood, one should always take into account the tendency of this building material to be affected by fungus and, depending on the desired result, prevent decay or accelerate decay.

How to deal with rotting wood?

It is necessary to suppress the development of fungi and the penetration of fungal spores into the core of the tree already in the process of production and storage of the material. Indeed, after felling, its moisture content is close to 40%. To prevent putrefactive processes, such protective measures as natural and industrial drying of lumber are used.

With natural drying, the harvested lumber must rest for at least 1 year. During industrial drying, this process is significantly accelerated due to the method of heating lumber to 80-100 degrees. This is how the sterilization of building materials occurs with getting rid of mycelium and spores.

So that the tree does not rot, it must be treated with special compounds.

Wood treatment with various water-soluble and oily antiseptics also helps to stop rotting. At home, surface antiseptic protection of wood is carried out. Having walked several times with a brush or spray to apply an antiseptic, you can reliably impregnate the top layer of wood.

Deep impregnation requires industrial capacity, since it is carried out by immersing wood elements for several hours in hot-cold antiseptic baths or using an autoclave. However, even very high-quality dry material during its operation can be subjected to putrefactive infection.

Protection from the development of putrefactive processes in wooden structures

In order for a wooden frame, a house made of timber, a bathhouse or other outbuildings made of this building material not to rot, all the rules for protecting the building should be followed. Measures to protect against infection of wood with fungi and mold are:

Proper waterproofing of the foundation will protect the house from decay.

Arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation, drainage system for the removal of ground and surface water. Coating wood with paints and varnishes. Presence of a moisture-proof roof of the building. Creation of ventilation of the premises with the help of air vents. Proper installation of insulating layers on the walls of structures in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate (vapor barrier - indoors, and - outside).

In the case when a wooden structure is periodically moistened, only potent antiseptic agents stop decay (for example, double-acting chemical preparations "Neomid 400", "Neomid 500", protecting against moisture and rot). At the same time, already rotten wood is completely cut down, removed from the room and burned to avoid further infection of the tree.

Sometimes the susceptibility of wood to decay can be regarded as a positive thing. If you know how to accelerate decay, you can use this feature of natural material to your advantage and force the fall of a tree or the removal of a stump.

Tips on how to speed up rotting to remove dead trees and stumps are as follows:

Drill more holes in them a couple of centimeters deep.

All of these tips can be used at the same time. And, of course, you should water the trees more often, moisten the stumps. Then favorable results will not be long in coming.

The main enemy of wood, a building material of organic origin, of course, can be called fungi and fungal spores, which penetrate deeply into the tissues of wood, causing it to rot, quickly destroying the nutrients in it and turning in a matter of months, the structure of a wooden house, a bathhouse, or a log house into a crumbling building.

Photo: such a forest infected with a rot fungus very often goes to sawmills.

Photo: if you look at such a forest closer, it becomes clear how badly the wood is affected by pests.

For the occurrence of spores of fungi and mold on the surface of the wood, appropriate conditions are necessary. These conditions include wood moisture content of 20-25%, positive air temperature from 0 to +35 degrees and the effect of moisture on wood.

These two potent agents can stop the rotting of wood that has begun. It is necessary to use against the development of wood decay of a wooden house, log house or bath according to a certain technology, since if the process of wood decay is already in full swing, then it can only be stopped by potent complex agents such as Neomid 500 and Neomid 430. For good, protection against possible wood decay it is necessary to start at the stage of production and storage of lumber. If such protection was not carried out and the logs or timber were not treated with antiseptics, it is imperative to protect against moisture, using a moisture-proof roof, with water-repellent compounds, in the form of varnishes, paints, or glazing compounds. Properly made waterproofing protects against condensation on the surface of the wood.

Usually it is performed according to the principle of placing the first layer closer to the outside, where the surface is exposed to low temperatures and the second, closer to the inside, where the surface is warm inside the room. The first crowns of the building, located above the ground level and separated from the concrete foundation, are different gaskets, in the form of roofing material, bituminous mastic, or ordinary cellophane film, folded in six layers, will be protected from moisture, and hence the formation of rot for more than a dozen years. If you process them after installation, with Neomid double-action and moisture protection, you can not be afraid of rot. Photo - these anti-wood rotting agents are by far the most effective, according to many building experts. To detect wood rotting in a timely manner and prevent it further distribution, it is necessary to annually conduct a thorough inspection of the surfaces of the entire wooden building. Signs of rotting wood are the characteristic smell of rot and a white, thin film in places infected with spores of rot and mold. Depending on the size and degree of the affected areas, it is necessary to completely replace the rotten wooden structures, or treat with bleaching compounds, with further processing antiseptic agents. The highest quality antiseptic compounds are Neomid products. Complex timely treatment with these antiseptics and bleaching will help protect the wood surface from rot and avoid dismantling a house from a bar or log to replace rotten wooden structures of a building. Photo: the most popular means of protection against wood rotting – impregnation brand Neomid.

Sale of antiseptic impregnations in Moscow and the region

You can buy these tools to help stop the rotting of the wood of a wooden house, log house or log bath in our company. Call!

How I stopped wood rotting in a wooden house.

Feedback from a private developerSo, for starters, hello. My name is Sergey Nikolaevich, I am 38 years old and today I am the owner of a beautiful country house built of wood. But, unfortunately, this was not always the case.

First of all, this concerns the house I built from chopped logs, the construction of which I finished back in 2009. Of course, I didn't build it. For these purposes, a team of experienced builders was hired, who, in principle, did their job well.

But, due to my inexperience, I still ran into a problem that led to wood rotting. But now, God forbid, everything is fine: - a pleasant aroma reigns in the house, the walls are dry, the atmosphere is cozy. In general, in order for those who have already started building their house or are just going to have everything as good as mine, I should tell you how I prevented the wood of a wooden house from rotting.

Actually, as a preface, I’ll say that my house is in a forest area, where, you know, the humidity of the air is much higher than the prescribed value. But, at the time of construction, in 2008, I only thought about how I would enjoy the natural scenery, breathe fresh air and, finally, make my dream of a private house come true.

So, having completed the construction, my house was anointed with something, impregnated with something, and left in this state for six months to let the tree settle. It was the end of autumn 2008, so I was in no hurry and calmly waited for the shrinkage process to finish in my apartment . But as soon as spring came, the wood dried up, and my builders finished installing the roof, put in windows and doors, did the interior decoration, and laid out communications. In general, by the end of 2009 I received a turnkey house.

At first everything was fine, but after about 3 years, I felt an unpleasant smell in the house. Accompanied by this, my children began to get sick more often, and the youngest had an allergic reaction, which then disappeared, then appeared again. Nobody could figure out why.

I called specialists, they looked and, as you understand, they said that everything was fine. This went on for about a year, but then my patience snapped. After consulting with a friend who had already “eaten a single dog while living in a wooden house”, I realized that it was all to blame, the rot that formed on the outside of the logs. Actually, in order to get rid of it, I did the following: I cleaned all the affected places.

Do you know what is the most interesting? And the fact that the rot was not always visible visually. I told you that the house was treated with something. Therefore, where the rot was visible visually, I cleaned it with coarse sandpaper.

In other places, I had to touch the tree by touch, and sometimes, try to pierce the tree with sharp objects. I restored the original color of the tree. In order to do this, I used Neomid 500, which is the best bleaching preparation. You know, one application was enough to make the walls look like new. At the same time, I was surprised that after application, nothing needs to be washed off, because after reacting and eliminating fungal spores, Neomid 500 evaporates from the tree itself. Protected the tree with fire and bioprotection.

For this, I used Neomid 450-1. It is thanks to him that I now live like in a tank. I am not afraid to leave the house for a long time, because it is protected from fire. In addition, I am no longer afraid and, most importantly, I do not hear the crunch of wood, because there are no insects in it. In general, my walls look like new, do not rot or get mould.

Fixed fixing this issue. In order to be sure that the protective equipment would not be washed off by rain, I varnished the walls using Neomid paint products. As you can see, I messed around a lot, but now I live like a king, enjoy the peace and comfort of my own home. Therefore, as a piece of advice, I would like to wish you to initially pay attention to products from Neomid, because they are not only highly effective, but also environmentally friendly.

A snow-white smile always attracts attention and has an interlocutor, but rotten teeth only cause disgust.

The most common oral ailment is, which in its essence becomes an impetus for the development of the problem.

Failure to comply with oral hygiene causes the spread of pathogenic bacteria that affect several teeth at once. With an untimely visit to the dentist, they appear, and the process of destruction of the enamel begins.

Dental problems are present in almost all people, but only a small part of the population visits the doctor on time for a preventive examination. It is quite difficult to understand the reason why teeth rot, but it is even more difficult to stop the process.

Destroyed teeth become an obstacle to a normal full life, because communication with other people is reduced to a minimum.

If pus forms under the tooth, and only the root is affected, you should know that the pathology is a sign of a serious disruption in the functioning of the whole organism.

What causes the process of decay ... or who?

There are several reasons why a tooth can start to fester, and often the person himself is the culprit:

Other diseases and problems can provoke the development of tooth decay:

1. Damage to periodontal tissues contribute to dental problems. This, and more severe diseases that adversely affect tooth enamel.
2. Often the cause is infections, diseases of the liver, digestive system, and poor thyroid function.
3. Education near the roots in the gum in the form affects not only adjacent tissues, but also teeth. The swelling has dense walls, pus accumulates in the tooth without treatment.
4. Lack of minerals provokes the occurrence of dental diseases.

Who is at particular risk?

Regardless of the state of the oral cavity, most patients do not even suspect that they are at risk of getting rotten rotten teeth:

• unfavorable ecological situation, lack of fluorine and dirty air negatively affects the health of the teeth and the whole body;
• hereditary predisposition often becomes a provoking factor in the appearance of pathology;
• during puberty, pregnancy and breastfeeding the hormonal system fails, this is reflected in the general condition of the teeth.

Associated symptoms

Symptoms of the disease depend on the severity of the course of the disease:

Sometimes the teeth rot from the inside, from the root, in which case the tooth may fall out on its own or it will need to be removed from the root. With the development of pathology from the coronal region, there is no pain due to the death of the nerve, but decay spreads further.

In advanced cases, the dentition is bent, the white color changes to brown-yellow, and the enamel is covered with black spots. As a result of all the above symptoms, a person develops a complex and psychological problems are added to everything else.

How to restore health and beauty to teeth?

If the tooth is already rotting and visible on the gum, then the first step is to get rid of the source of infection. The focus of inflammation is removed by the dentist by cleaning dental deposits and filling root canals.

The use of conservative techniques

The essence of the procedure is to expand the channels, and drilling out caries. After treatment with dental instruments, pus is drained from the affected area.

After that, the doctor conducts therapy using antibacterial agents and antiseptics. If it is not completely possible to clean the focus of pus, then a small incision is made on the gum. After removal of purulent residues and caries, the canals are sealed with therapeutic material. At the last stage of dental treatment, a filling is placed.

What to do if the teeth rot and no medicines and procedures help? Then the surgeon will come to the rescue.

Surgical intervention

Surgical treatment is required after canal filling, but only if the procedure was unsatisfactory, especially near the top of the root. In this case, decay of the tooth often resumes, but this can be cured by resection of the root tip.

The procedure is a scraping of pus from the gums after cutting off the affected area of ​​​​the root with a drill.

The operation can be done only after the elimination of inflammation, that is, after the elimination of internal pus and the implementation of antibiotic therapy. It is produced from 40 minutes to an hour.

In order to avoid the need for surgical methods, it is necessary to contact a dentist in case of any suspicion of the development of caries.

People who have a predisposition to the formation of plaque and other diseases need to carefully carry out oral hygiene procedures, monitor the functioning of the digestive tract and the immune system.

How to prevent tooth decay?

Proper oral care will help prevent pus in the teeth.

After all, it is much easier to devote time to preventive measures than to become a regular patient of the dentist later:

Bacterial attack throughout the body

Tooth decay is negative, because in addition to the destruction of enamel and root canals, bacteria enter the body and cause many diseases. Only a dentist can prevent this process.

Rotten teeth in the oral cavity have an extremely negative impact on human health - the consequences for the body can be very serious:

It has been proven that if a woman has caries during the period of bearing a child, then there is a risk of its occurrence in the future child.

Beautiful and snow-white teeth are evidence of proper oral care. The process of decay repels others, because it makes an unpleasant impression. This problem is not only physical, but also psychological.

If you do not contact your dentist in a timely manner, the consequences can be serious for the whole body. Prevention and proper oral hygiene will help protect a person from pathology.

It is better to warn at the stage of logging and assembling a log house than to get rid of infected areas for a long and painful time. But if this still happened, you should use several proven methods.

First of all, you should know that the development of fungal formations requires a humid environment, which, with insufficient ventilation, is formed in the underground space. And since the lower crowns, as a rule, are below the floor level, they are the first to rot. So, first of all, you need to get rid of excess moisture. To do this, with the help of an ax, a scraper, a jointer and other improvised tools, you need to clean the log from traces of rot, and then thoroughly coat it with lime milk completely. Lime, as you know, dries the surface very strongly, therefore, in a short time it is able to draw out most of the excess moisture from the wood.

Next, clean the white limescale from the surface, and then treat the wood with antibacterial agents. Relatively recently, the tarring method was used to protect the lower rims of the log house from decay, but due to the fact that a huge amount of bituminous mastics has now appeared, the need to heat the tar on a fire and coat the logs with pitch has completely disappeared. A significant disadvantage of any bituminous coating is that the resin creates not only a waterproof layer, but also blocks the access of air, so the tree in this case will not be able to "breathe".

It is best to use linseed oil to prevent further rot formation. It has the property of deep penetration into the structure of the tree, due to which the appearance and further development of fungal spores is reduced to almost zero. Apply oil manually with a brush in 3-4 layers. After applying each layer, it needs time to absorb at least 24 hours. Especially carefully it is necessary to process the ends of the logs. It is advisable to carry out the procedure for impregnating the lower logs with linseed oil twice a year - in spring and autumn.

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Wood is the most popular building material in our country. Although recently it has risen in price so much that it has real competitors in the form of expanded clay concrete and foam concrete, it continues to be the leader in its use in summer cottage construction, especially small houses. But wood, alas, is subject to such a phenomenon as rotting, in contrast to the same brick or expanded clay concrete. It is also extremely combustible and is attacked by pests. But despite all this, it is still popular. How to protect wood from harmful factors?

How to increase the water resistance of plywood

The best way to increase water resistance is to eliminate moisture from the plywood altogether. If the walls of your building are covered with plywood (at least as a windproofing), then you should make the roof overhangs as large as possible. When upholstered with plywood, it should be fastened so that the fibers of the outer layer are located vertically.

To protect plywood from moisture, it should be very carefully impregnated with natural drying oil. This is done in the following way. Hot drying oil is applied to plywood (it should be heated in a water bath). Then the surface is ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 150-200 degrees. You can also use a technical building hair dryer. The procedure is repeated several times until the plywood stops absorbing drying oil. This means that the entire layer of plywood veneer is impregnated with drying oil to the adhesive layer.

If possible, the plywood should be processed before use, with the plywood sheet horizontal. The joints of plywood sheets are processed additionally, after it is put in place, and smeared with thick paint. This is a fairly effective way, even boats are treated this way.

How to stop wood rotting

Unfortunately, the process of wood decay is irreversible. What is rotten is rotten. But you can stop this process so that it does not spread to the rest of the wood. It is done like this. The area affected by rot is carefully cut down (with an ax, chisels), while some of the healthy wood is captured. Then, reinforcing metal rods are installed in the cut-out space, so that they go into healthy wood to a certain depth, and the area is carefully puttied with acrylic or epoxy putty.

This is a rather time-consuming and expensive procedure, so constantly treat the critical load-bearing wooden parts with anti-rotten impregnations, copper sulfate, and mineral oils. Problems are easier to prevent than to cure.

How to remove old oil paint

You can try to remove the old paint by applying a 2% solution of caustic soda to it. After a while, the paint will soften and it can be removed with a scraper. A solution of caustic soda can be replaced with a solution of laundry soap and turpentine in a ratio of 1:2.

The use of a building hair dryer may also help. Under the influence of hot air, the paint peels off. Before this, you can lightly spray the wood with water. Water under the influence of temperature swells the old paint.

On sale there are also various solvents and solutions for removing old paint of various types. For example ATP-1 or SP-7.

How to paint wood

Wood is a living material. It is very hygroscopic and greatly changes its geometric dimensions depending on humidity. And many summer residents who have painted their wooden house with oil paint are surprised to find that after literally a season, the paint simply moves away in patches from the boards with which their houses are upholstered. And the point here is not in the poor quality of the paint, but in its improper use. And how to paint correctly?

First of all, the wood to be painted must be absolutely dry. Therefore, if you are painting a house or a fence, then the day before should be at least a week or two dry weather. Those. the house can be painted only in the summer, in a drought. The next mandatory item in the wood protection program is the application of primer. If you use oil paint, then it should be natural linen or sunflower drying oil. However, now on sale there are many primers for different paints. The meaning of priming is that the primer closes all the micropores in the wood and prevents the penetration of moisture into it from the outside. And in perfectly dry wood, neither rot nor pests live.

After priming, the tree should be painted in 1-2 layers with lead or iron minium or oil paints based on zinc white. Tinted or just white. The last, outer layer is pentaphthalic or glyphthalic enamels. They form a waterproof film and moisture does not enter the wood. Wood painted in this way retains its fresh look for many years and you do not have to repaint your garden house every year.

But it should be borne in mind that it is possible to paint wood in this way only when it is absolutely protected from moisture, both outside and inside. Those. a vapor barrier must be installed inside the house. If there is no such vapor barrier and it is not possible to arrange it, then the so-called. breathable paints. They do not clog the pores of wood, it breathes, but at the same time does not violate the structure of the coating, since it is also vapor-permeable. Although it protects the wood from direct moisture and decay.

The so-called "Swedish" and "Finnish" compositions for wood coating are known. Both of them have undeniable advantages over oil paints. They are 2 times more durable than them, they "breathe", when re-painting they do not require the removal of the old coating, they are much cheaper. The only drawback is that these compounds cannot be applied over old oil paint. Therefore, it is best to cover them with fresh, dry wood. It is also necessary to remove all resin stains on the wood and it is desirable to deresin it.

Resin removal of wood can be done by wiping problem areas with acetone or isopropyl alcohol. You can try using car windshield washer fluid. They contain resin-dissolving alcohols.

You can use a solution of 5-10% soda ash solution with a temperature of 40-60 degrees. The surface of the wood is wiped with a solution 2-3 times, and then washed with plenty of clean water.

Swedish squad

• Flour (rye or wheat) - 1100 gr.
• Iron vitriol - 500 gr.
• Table salt - 500 gr.
• Dry lime coloring pigment - 500 gr.
• Drying oil natural - 500 gr.
• Water is ok. 9 liters.

A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water (boiling water). Then salt, iron sulfate are successively dissolved in hot paste, and pigment is added. Then, with vigorous stirring, add drying oil and the remaining hot water. Water is added to paint consistency. The solution is used immediately after preparation.

Finnish squad

• Flour - 700 gr.
• Iron vitriol - 1500 gr.
• Table salt - 350-400 gr.
• Lime pigment - 1500 gr.
• Water is ok. 9 liters.

The Finnish solution is prepared in the same order as the Swedish one.

When using solutions, they try to keep them hot, but paint them so that the surface does not overheat in the sun. Preferably in the afternoon, so that at night the solution could soak into the wood and not dry out ahead of time. Solutions are applied in 2 layers, without preliminary primer.

If the wood has begun to rot, what is the most effective coating to stop the rotting process? and got the best answer

Answer from Andrey Glebov[guru]
working oil. I covered the bulls in the garage with this shit - cheap and cheerful)
Andrey Glebov
Sage
(15603)
uncomfortable to sleep on the ceiling - the blanket falls). An old brush, work clothes, a flashlight and patience are all that will save your beams. It’s too late to hide it with an antifungal agent - since you say that the process has begun ... I can suggest treating the beams with lime as an option - it dries superbly and kills the fungus, I just remembered).

Answer from Vlad Bezuglov[guru]
As far as I know, wood charred from above does not rot in the ground. Try to beg.

Answer from Stupid Shishkin[guru]
Any antiseptic will do
i would use pinotex ultra or dufa
if you don’t want to invest, then you can use used engine oil

Answer from Rrr[guru]
if you start, then don’t stop ... it was necessary to impregnate in advance ... you can slow down ... for example, working out

Answer from Alex Perunkov[guru]
Most importantly, if you are going to smear with working off, be sure to dry the structure.

Answer from Uncle from the Future...[guru]
It is unlikely that something will give a 100% effect. If possible, if this is a structural element, it is better to replace it before it's too late.

Answer from Vovchik-chik[guru]
The vent is not ventilation. The vent allows moisture and odors to escape. Ventilation forcibly draws out dampness and odor. It is necessary to attach a pipe to one of the vents (height, until draft appears). Mold fungus must not be covered up. First you need to process the mixture
1) Quicklime or slaked carbite
2) Copper sulfate
Do not use an oily coating, it is better to whiten after processing