Perhaps there is not a single family that would not dream of a cozy, warm home. Often dreams are broken about the realities of life related to the material side of the issue. In such cases, you should pay attention to the house of expanded clay concrete blocks. In the construction market, products made from this lightweight concrete have not lost popularity for several decades due to the favorable price-quality ratio. Let us consider in more detail the characteristics of building materials, the technology of working with it. We will figure out how to build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks so that it warms not only us, but also our children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

House made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete - characteristics, advantages, disadvantages

Products made of lightweight concrete, the main filler of which are baked clay pellets, are in high demand in the construction of private houses with a small number of storeys, as well as in the construction of country houses and auxiliary buildings. Expanded clay is a lightweight, environmentally friendly, porous and, at the same time, very durable material.

When binding pellets with cement mortar, products are obtained that have many positive aspects:

The advantages that do not affect the quality of work, but improve the mood when purchasing material and during the production of construction activities, include:

• low cost of production. The use of readily available components in the manufacture allows you to maintain a price range affordable for most developers;
• ease of laying. The small dimensions and weight of individual elements allow installation at an accelerated pace;
• increased surface roughness, which improves adhesion with finishing compositions and facilitates cladding work.

Having studied the advantages, we can make a hasty conclusion that a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is ideal. Owner reviews largely confirm this opinion.

But when choosing a building material, you should not turn a blind eye to the shortcomings, which include:

Studying the advantages and disadvantages will help to properly prepare for construction activities.

Calculator of expanded clay concrete blocks for a house

One of the preparatory stages of construction is the design stage. After the development and approval of the project, it is necessary to calculate the need for materials. You can determine the required amount of building material yourself. Take for example a one-story house made of expanded clay concrete blocks with dimensions of 10x20 m and a ceiling height of 3 m.

The calculation can be done in two ways:

• by area;
• by volume.

When calculating the required number of elements according to the first option, we act according to the following algorithm:

1. Determine the total area of ​​the walls. In our case - (10 + 10 + 20 + 20) x3 = 180 m².
2. We calculate the number of units of production per 1 m². For an element with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm, this is 12.5 pieces (1 / 0.4x0.2 \u003d 12.5).
3. We multiply the total area of ​​​​the walls and the quantity by 1 m² - we get the required number of units of production - 180x12.5 \u003d 2250 pieces.

How many expanded clay blocks are needed to build a house

The second calculation option is similar to the first, only when performing calculations, they operate not with area indicators, but with the values ​​​​of masonry volumes and one unit of production.

It should be emphasized that window and door openings are not taken into account in the calculation process. This was done deliberately to take into account the loss of building materials during the work.

We build a house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Having dealt with the characteristics, advantages and disadvantages of products, having studied the methods for calculating the need for building materials and having made its purchase, you can proceed to construction work. To build a strong and durable house of expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, follow proven technologies.

The general construction algorithm includes:

• foundation construction;
• walling;
• roof arrangement;
• waterproofing, insulation, cladding.

Let's take a closer look at each point.

Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks

When choosing the type of foundation, it is first necessary to focus on the structure and composition of the soil, as well as the level of groundwater.

Foundation for a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks

Of the variety of foundations for structures made of lightweight concrete, only three types are suitable.:

• tape;
• pile;
• slab.

After analyzing the soil at the construction site, you can determine which of the foundations will be preferable. The slab base is justified on unstable soils prone to movement. Due to the large area and increased strength, it is able to compensate for bending loads and prevent cracking of the material during soil shifts. But there is a nuance that you need to know about - the slab base is laborious in arranging.

The pile foundation has many advantages when erected on soils prone to frost heaving. It is also indispensable in cases where it is necessary to build a building on a site with a slope. But the pile foundation unevenly distributes the loads arising from soil shifts. Therefore, when choosing a screw structure for a lightweight concrete house, carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Optimal, with a low occurrence of groundwater, is a strip foundation.

It has a number of advantages over other types of bases.:

• evenly distributes the load, which prevents the appearance of cracks;
• allows you to independently fill, since large-sized equipment is not required in the process of work;
• allows the arrangement of a full-fledged basement.

How to fill a strip foundation

Work on pouring the strip foundation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Plan the site surface. Perform uprooting of trees and shrubs. Remove small vegetation manually or with chemicals.
2. Mark the base using pegs and string.
3. Dig a trench deeper than the freezing level of the soil. Trim the walls and bottom of the trench.
4. Prepare and install formwork. For formwork, you can use trimming boards or use plywood panels.
5. Pour gravel-sand mixture into the trench. Make a rammer.
6. Assemble the reinforcing frame. The connection of metal bars can be done by welding or binding wire.
7. Prepare concrete mortar according to the recipe. Use for work a concrete solution not lower than grade M400.
8. Pour the finished composition into the trench. Thoroughly tamp the solution to remove air bubbles.
9. Level the surface. Cover with plastic to retain moisture.
10. After the hardening process is completed, remove the formwork.
11. Waterproof the foundation.

After the base has gained strength, proceed to the construction of the box.

Professionals advise using adhesives when laying expanded clay concrete blocks

Work on the construction of the walls of a two-story house from expanded clay concrete blocks, as well as a country house from expanded clay concrete blocks, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

1. Lay the first row. Start laying from the corner zone.
2. Check the levelness with a level.
3. Lay the next row, shifting the elements relative to the lower level by a third or half the thickness.
4. Reinforce masonry every 3-4 rows. Use metal rods or reinforcing mesh for this.
5. Reinforce door and window openings.
6. Carry out the concreting of the armored belt at the upper level to install the roof structure.

Upon completion of work, proceed to the installation of the roof.

Roof arrangement

The roof, like the foundation, is the key to the durability of the structure. Before proceeding with the installation of the roof, consider the design, select the appropriate floor material. It is not worth saving when choosing a roofing material.

It is important that he be:

• durable;
• durable;
• resistant to natural factors;
• environmentally friendly.

Arrangement of the roof of the house

To mount the roof, prepare the following materials:

• wooden beam 150x150 mm for Mauerlat;
• edged board for lathing;
• roofing material;
• hardware for fastening structural elements.

Guided by the documentation, assemble the frame and secure the roofing material.

Warming of the house from expanded clay concrete blocks

Buildings made of expanded clay concrete need insulation. Developers often have a question about how to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks. To maintain a comfortable microclimate, it is desirable to install thermal insulation both inside and outside. Such an integrated approach to insulation will reduce the level of costs for maintaining a favorable temperature.

How to insulate a house from expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside

For external insulation, it is important to choose the optimal heat insulator.

Insulation of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks

The most common heaters are:

• Styrofoam. It is characterized by low price, ease of installation, ease of finishing. Disadvantages - combustibility and damage by rodents;
• mineral wool. Differs in reasonable price, the increased heat-insulating properties. When laying it outside the building, a prerequisite is the use of waterproofing;
• facing panels. Differ in the high price and the increased level of installation costs. Mounting technology ensures the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Any of the proposed options has the right to life. The choice depends on financial possibilities.

Estimated construction cost

The estimated cost of construction can be obtained by summing the following items of expenditure:

• development and approval of project documentation;
• purchase of materials for the construction of foundations, walls, roofs, finishing;
• transportation costs for the delivery of building materials to the place of work;
• the cost of paying for the services of hired workers.

Using the current prices, you can get an approximate cost and plan the amount of upcoming costs.

Walls built from expanded clay concrete blocks have good strength characteristics comparable to brick ones. The adhesive properties of this material with others based on cements are also good, therefore there are few fundamental differences from brickwork. It is permissible to arrange a small one-story room made of expanded clay blocks by yourself, without a preliminary project. However, you need to know some features, follow the instructions and follow the entire construction technology step by step.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to prepare the following tools: a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, a rubber mallet, a trowel for applying mortar, a cord for marking devices, a square, a power tool for cutting blocks and grooves for reinforcement.

Where to start laying blocks is to prepare the foundation on which it is supposed to be built. The foundation surface should be as even as possible so that the height difference between the corners of the building does not exceed 3 cm. To do this, a leveling layer of cement composition is arranged. After that, it is necessary to lay out the cut-off waterproofing of the foundation from the masonry walls so that there is no capillary suction of water from the foundation.

Laying the first row

The laying of expanded clay concrete blocks can be carried out both on special glue and on conventional DSP. However, if it is planned to use additional insulation of the facade, there is no need for adhesives with reduced thermal conductivity. The thickness of the seams should be on average 12 mm.

Note: during construction in the winter season, frost-resistant additives should be placed in the solution, according to the instructions.

The laying of the first row starts from the corner of the foundation, and from the highest. This is determined by the leveling method. But when building walls with your own hands, you can limit yourself to the building level. The first expanded clay block must be placed on the minimum layer of the composition, it is maximally leveled in the plane according to the plan, as well as vertically and horizontally, using the level. Then the corner blocks are left for a while for the mortar to set. So the laid element becomes a kind of beacon, to which the entire row is brought.

Masonry of the second and subsequent rows

Step-by-step instructions for laying expanded clay blocks:

1. Mark the site according to the layout, mark the places of window and door openings.

2. At the corners of the walls, install a vertical rail with markings for the height of the rows. It is allowed to do without it, often they simply use the "mason's corner". Pull the mooring line under the layout of the new row.

3. Transfer the number of blocks required for one row and the finished solution directly to the working area. Provide free access to auxiliary tools.

4. Apply a layer of glue, lay a brick on it.

Note: when laying walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands for the first time, it is better to start by spreading the composition under only one block, in the future, with the development of dexterity, it will be possible to lay 3-4 blocks at a time.

5. Align with a level and light taps with a suitable tool (you can use a trowel to distribute the adhesive mixture).

6. Lay the next brick.

Masonry schemes, dressing and abutment

The laying of expanded clay walls begins from the corners, the blocks are carefully leveled, and the mortar is given time to set. Then a mooring cord is tied to the corners, and the whole row is laid out along it. The last element is usually non-standard, it needs to be cut to size.

Note: the height of self-supporting walls should not exceed 3.5 m, and the free length should not exceed 8 m.

Walls can be of different designs, the most common are:

• In one row (half a block thick), these are obtained when laying expanded clay concrete blocks in the longitudinal direction. Here there is a classic bandaging of spoon rows with an offset of at least 0.4 from the height of the block (100 mm).
• In two rows (one block thick), dressing here is carried out by shifting the spoon rows relative to each other by at least 100 mm both in the longitudinal direction of the wall and in the transverse direction. In this case, it is necessary to do a bonding dressing every 2 rows - this is when the expanded clay blocks are located across the wall, for its entire thickness.

Interfacing of internal walls with external ones can be performed by bonding masonry or by anchoring blocks, embedded or reinforcing elements in increments of 600 mm (at least two bondings per floor height are acceptable). All steel products used in dressing must be corrosion resistant (stainless steel or with a special coating).

Reinforcement and lintels

In order to smooth out subsidence and shrinkage deformations of the masonry, as well as to reduce the risk of cracking, a girdle reinforcement is arranged for every third row. To do this, in the production of work on their own, steel bars of a periodic profile with a diameter of 8–10 mm are more often used. For them, it is necessary to arrange a strobe of such a depth (up to 25 mm) that the rods are completely immersed there, without protruding anywhere. At the corners of the structure, the reinforcement should not be interrupted; it would be correct to bend it with a certain radius. Next, a solution should be placed in the strobe, the rod should be “drowned” in it and covered with a top coat.

Reinforcement is required in the following support rows:

1. Under the door, window openings. In these places it is necessary to lay two rows of reinforcement 500 - 900 mm longer than the width of the opening on each side.

2. Under the overlap. Here, along the perimeter of the walls, a girdle two-row reinforcement or frame reinforcement is arranged, laid in U-shaped blocks.

If the masonry is carried out independently, without a preliminary design and calculations, then, yielding to the desire to “work better and stronger”, you can make girdle reinforcement every 3 rows, this will increase the crack resistance of the structure as a whole.

Above window and door openings, lintels can be arranged as follows:

• With the use of U-shaped products. To do this, a support formwork is constructed, trays are laid out on it with a bypass on the wall of at least 250 mm. A reinforcing cage is placed in them, and everything is poured with concrete, which is compacted by bayoneting, then the surface must be leveled.
• Using ready-made . They are laid on a mortar layer with a bypass of 100 mm for non-bearing structures and at least 250 mm for load-bearing ones.
• It is also possible to use a rolled steel profile (corners, square tubes) as a permanent support formwork. On top, you can simply put expanded clay blocks with the usual dressing.

The overlap should be supported on a support row with girdle reinforcement, which will evenly redistribute the load along the entire perimeter. If a reinforced concrete slab or beams is used, it is recommended to anchor the ceiling with walls with bent reinforcement bars (for example, Ø8 A240). One side of the bent rod is hooked to the ceiling mounting loop, and the other side is placed along the expanded clay blocks. Also, it is desirable to additionally protect the ends of the floor slabs in the outer walls with a layer of insulation.

In cases where there is no self-confidence, it is better to turn to specialists. The cost of masonry per cube in the regions of Russia varies from 900 to 1600 rubles, the highest prices are in Moscow. Also, the cost depends on the types of work included in the estimate, for example, loading is sometimes considered separately.

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What material is better to choose for building a house: eco-friendly wood or the most modern options? Before you start work, you need to decide on the design of the house. It should be borne in mind that if it is complex, then it will be difficult to work with a bar. Consider all the pros and cons of timber and foam block.

The increase in the popularity of foam concrete is due to many factors, among which the need for energy saving stands out. In the past few years, due to the increase in utility costs, this indicator has become especially popular.

There are two popular ways of making foam concrete - classical and using barotechnology. When using the second method, there is an increase in the use of a foaming agent, so foam concrete is not very strong, but it is light. With the classical method, on the contrary, a greater density and strength are obtained. But in any case, foam concrete is obtained, which is fed into molds with the help of a compressor unit.

Expanded clay concrete is a monolithic building material containing in its composition, in addition to cement, also expanded clay. Expanded clay blocks are obtained by mixing sand, cement and expanded clay in water in an approximate ratio of 2: 1: 3.

The finished blocks are completely identical in size, which allows you to quickly erect walls, but during the construction process it is often necessary to carefully drill and / or cut them - for example, when creating door and window openings. In this case, different tools are used - depending on the type of blocks, their purpose and quantity.

How to drill expanded clay concrete

Many "home" craftsmen argue that it is almost impossible to drill expanded clay concrete, because this material literally crumbles in the hands. Blocks are actually easy to machine, but you just need to approach this process with your head! Expanded clay concrete cannot be drilled in the same way as a conventional concrete block.

The special structure of expanded clay concrete blocks with voids does not mean that it will be possible to drill a hole only with cracks and chips. Of course, if you work on a block with a puncher with a large drill, then you obviously should not count on a neat hole. The puncher can be used, but only with the chiseling mode deactivated; a regular carbide-tipped drill will also work well. You can also use an impact drill, but only in cases where you need to get a through hole.

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Expanded clay blocks 3-hollow			Expanded clay blocks 8-slotted
	20x20x40	a piece 42rub		20x20x40	a piece 45rub

How to make through holes

When drilling through claydite-concrete blocks, there is a serious drawback, which manifests itself in the form of chips and sometimes even whole funnels at the exit of the drill. The reason lies in the creation of vibrations, because the process is accompanied by drill blows; as soon as it approaches the return exit from the block, then strong blows will lead to chipping off large fragments of the block. To avoid this, it is necessary to completely turn off the vibrations on the tool and drill the hole in the usual way. After a couple of successful attempts, you will understand how you can avoid large chips when forming holes.

How many partitions in the block need to be drilled

Blocks of expanded clay concrete usually have several partitions through which the drill passes. When drilling without impact, holes will be formed into which it is quite possible to insert an anchor bolt or dowel, and they will be able to perform the same functions as in a concrete wall. Here you only need to take into account the thickness of the internal partitions and the distance between them.

If the load on the anchor / dowel is minimal, then it will be enough to drill only the outer partition of the block. A thick model of expanded clay concrete block has a thickness of at least 40 mm, and about 10 mm is given to plaster. Total - 50 mm, which is quite enough to hang a shelf or a mirror. If a more serious load is expected, then several internal partitions will also have to be drilled.

Specifications

Drilling into a masonry joint

The length of the anchor or dowel is selected taking into account all the partitions of the block and their thickness. A simple calculation will allow you to securely fix not only a mirror in the corridor, but also a gas boiler and even a metal door. If the expected load is too large, then drilling can be performed not only into the block itself, but also into the masonry joint. So the fit of the anchor will turn out to be maximum, which will make it possible to obtain high fastening strength. Drilling a masonry joint is especially important when installing heating radiators and heavy metal doors.

If you need to cut one block, then you can use a hand saw with a thick metal blade (the saw must have carbide tips). A hacksaw will be relevant only when processing one or two blocks, but it will be difficult for one person to cut a bunch of products manually.

1. Power saw "Alligator" from DeWalt. In construction, the Alligator electric saw from DeWalt, specially designed for cutting bricks, is widely known. With the help of such a saw, you can process a large number of blocks, but you should only stock up on additional blades first. The DeWalt power saw also works great with bricks, so it is recommended for purchase by a professional bricklayer, although its price is somewhat “biting”.
2. Bulgarian. Cutting blocks with a grinder is the best way out of the situation. When sawing with a grinder, it is important to use diamond-coated metal segmented discs, which do not burst even with significant overheating. Note that when cutting with a grinder, the depth of the cut is limited, so the block is first cut along the perimeter to the maximum depth, after which it is split along the formed line. Despite this nuance, a person with minimal experience in handling an angle grinder acquires the skills of effective cutting in a short time.

If you need to cut a block into two identical parts and the quality of the final surface is not important, then the product can not be cut, but simply split with an unnecessary wood saw and a hammer. If you sequentially punch through the inner partition, then you will end up with two front halves.

The ISOBLOCK company offers to purchase high-quality expanded clay concrete blocks made on its own equipment. In the process of manufacturing blocks, only impeccable raw materials are used, which constantly undergo laboratory tests. When ordering blocks wholesale and retail, you will get a great opportunity to save money, because we are a manufacturer, not an intermediary, which saves 20-30%.

If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Complete set of window system

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window unit is the frame

The design of the plastic window includes the following details:

• frame - the main structural part;
• if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
• double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture formed during the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them to the outside;
• another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling of the old window block;
• installing a new window.

Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order for windows to be installed in a brick house, cinder block, gas-block or apartment, you first need to order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design

Before you start measuring, do not miss an important point - what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide what components your design will be made of: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to take measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in
Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks

If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

• inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
• further attached to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
• after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

In order for the correct installation to be done both on windows and, follow the simple rules:

• we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
• the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
• you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
• the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.

how to cut expanded clay blocks?

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8 (115658) 8 15 115 5 years

do they get drunk? we cut them with an ax
Well, if you want it beautifully - probably with a stone disc. Stone after all) Big flex.
I do not advise a hacksaw, you will dull instantly. But if you don't mind..

0 0

7 (92208) 34 176 787 5 years

Cutting large-format wall blocks is an inevitable process in the construction of walls. It is necessary to cut blocks during the construction of window and door openings, gables, and in the process of erecting a solid wall, cutting is indispensable. Various tools are used for cutting, and which tool is suitable for what depends on the type of blocks.

Expanded clay concrete hollow blocks can be cut with a grinder (angle grinder) with a cutting wheel diameter of 230mm. The cutting wheel must be metal segmented with diamond coating on the cutting part. If you use a non-segmented cutting wheel, then it can shatter during sawing from overheating, this does not happen with a segmented wheel, since the slots in it allow the sectors (segments) of the cutting wheel to deform freely when heated. The disadvantage is that the cut is only 55 mm deep, even if you cut the block from all sides, it will eventually have to be chipped off, but having cuts around the perimeter, this will be quite easy to do. You can insert an ax into the slot and hit it with a hammer, or you can put a wooden block and forcefully lower the block onto it with a cut line - a fairly effective way.

It is better, of course, to cut expanded clay blocks with a DeWalt alligator saw for cutting bricks. DeWalt also has a whole series of alligator saws for cutting foam concrete, bricks and large-format Porotherm ceramic blocks. The DeWalt Alligator will do an excellent job not only with blocks, but also with bricks, so if funds allow, then it is better to purchase it. There are also Russian analogues of such saws, for example, the Perm "alligator" is several times cheaper than Devoltovsky, in terms of a professional tool it may not work, but for one house, I think, such a saw should be enough.

Foam concrete blocks can be cut with a special manual hacksaw for cutting foam concrete - a hacksaw with a thick metal blade and carbide tipped teeth (similar to a hacksaw for wood). Such a hacksaw cuts quite well, the only minus is that you will have to cut, or rather, saw, with handles, and this is a decent waste of time and effort, although if there is nowhere to rush ...

The best tool for cutting will also be the DeWalt alligator, but the price for it greatly limits the purchase of this tool in Russia. Many people adapt to cut foam blocks with Russian “alligators” or simply reciprocating saws, which are several times cheaper than alligators, using special saw blades for cutting foam blocks for cutting (including alligator blades, which are ground to the desired type of attachment).

Porotherm-type ceramic porous blocks can only be cut with an alligator saw. A reciprocating saw is unlikely to cope here, but I don’t advise extreme with a grinder - I cut it in a respirator and goggles, in the heat, tin. In principle, you can cut with a grinder, only it will be a very long and tedious process with constant very accurate chipping of parts that interfere with cutting, plus a huge amount of dust and small fragments flying under clothes and shoes. By the way, the manufacturers of ceramic blocks recommend the “alligator” of the DeWalt company, I think that it is not in vain that they recommend it. The price bites, but the saw is worth it, especially if you are a bricklayer and you need it for work.

If you want to cut the block into two equal parts along the length (width of the wall), and the quality of the cut is not important, for example, for laying floor slabs around the perimeter, then the block can not be cut at all, but simply split it. For these purposes, I used a canvas from an old hacksaw for wood and a hammer. Due to the voids, the block is pricked quite easily, each internal partition is sequentially broken through, one after the other - as a result, we get two front halves.

In no case do not use a chainsaw to cut blocks, even foam concrete. Not a single chain can withstand, even if you cut foam concrete, and the cutting dust will simply kill the chainsaw mechanism - grains of sand will get into the gearbox, gears and bearings will simply wear out.

take Chieftec, FSP from the middle class, they really showed themselves well and work at the declared power and in some cases even exceed it, and the price is more or less affordable.

Forget about Codegen in general Chinese consumer goods are hollow, the power in them is not true, that's why they cost 10 lats

Maybe the capacitors are dry. From the heat.
It is strange that the plugs were knocked out - there are 2 fuses in the blocks - fusible and semiconductor.

Take it apart and see what burned down - this will give a picture. Yes, and sometimes there are cockroaches in them. They crawl under the board itself, which is screwed to the block body inside it. The contacts close (the high frequency of 20 kHz, at which the unit operates, passes through a cockroach more easily than a 5-Hz network). The insect is fried, the block is burned.

Perhaps the voltage fuse has blown (a green flat disk with contact wires) and closed the circuit - this happens from surges.

When you turn on the vacuum cleaner, when the refrigerator motor turns on, there are interferences above 230 volts in the network.

There are only transformer ribbons yellow there ... Throw out the block. Don't do it. Yourself is more expensive. If you buy the next one, it costs 24 lats. It will be better. Now they all come with improved cooling, blowing from below, and it is quieter, and their pulse shaper chip is more advanced.

It seems to me or is this the most banal charge for a laptop? There are no stopudoff stores

Everest is not quite a power supply, but you can test the heating;)