Making chisels for woodcarving with your own hands. How to make simple DIY wood carving tools Make a wood cutter

Wood carving requires not only skill, but also special tools. Some of them are well known to everyone, but there are also specific ones that are used exclusively for this type of folk art. Let's try to figure it out and present you with the main types of tools that you will need if you want to try your hand at woodcarving.

As the masters themselves note, there is no clear and unified classification of instruments. Moreover, in different descriptions there are different names for the same type of instrument.

Knives

The main type of tool that is actively used during woodcarving is a knife. However, there are several types of them, which differ markedly both in purpose and in appearance.

They feature a bevelled blade with a cutting angle of up to 60 degrees. Jambs are used in the flat-relief carving process to cut straight, long lines. Jambs can also be used to process the side walls of existing grooves and to fold the contour.

Knives-cutters. They are also called cutters or simply knives. All have a 35-degree cutting angle, but shape and size may vary. Carvers consider such knives to be the main tool, each master has his own favorite knife, which he can consistently use for many years.

Allocate also Bogorodsk knives And tatyanka. The name comes from the village of Bogorodskoye, famous for its wooden toys of the same name. Bogorodsk knives can have a different blade size, which varies depending on the subtlety of the work. Tatyanka is just a kind of Bogorodsk knife with a longer handle, which ensures maximum transfer of the master's efforts to the cutting edge. Used for power carving.

For novice wood carving lovers, according to experts, a ready-made set of knives is suitable. You should try your hand, in fact, figure out which knife it will be more convenient for you to work with, so such a kit at the first stage is the best choice.

Chisels

In woodcarving, various chisels are also actively used, of which there are also many types.

They are flat and easily recognizable. Used in the process of leveling flat surfaces and for cleaning.

Semicircular chisels. They come in a variety of sizes from large to tiny. A semicircular chisel can change both the bending radius and the height. Semicircular chisels are used for classical volumetric carving, but can also be used during flat-relief carving.

Cerazik. If a semicircular chisel has a height much greater than the bend radius, it is commonly called a cerazik.

Chisels-jambs. It is used for geometric carving, the blade cut is from 45 to 70 degrees.

Cranberry chisels , they are cranberries. This is another type of semicircular chisel with a curved blade. The width of the canvas is from two millimeters, and the bends in one direction or another are 120 degrees. Cranberries are used to deepen the background, cut curly surfaces, process bulges.

Corner chisels. Widely used to create narrow grooves and lines in wood. They are also called geismus or eismus. The best bend angle of the master is called 45 degrees.

Spooners

As the name implies, this tool is used when cutting wooden spoons and other utensils, but can also be used where a round or semi-circular hole needs to be cut in wood. Spooners can be different, there are two main types - with a curved blade and circular. Masters believe that the best spoon-maker is just a sharpened ring, to which a metal rod with a handle is welded.

Stichel

They differ from chisels in a mushroom-shaped handle, it is more convenient to work with it when you need to cut a thin line with force. For wood carving engravers, the bend angle is always 15 degrees. Note that the same tools for carving metal and bone look completely different. Stichels are used in different types of carving and for different purposes.

Auxiliary tools that are used by master carvers include nichrome wire and a pattern. Nichrome wire is needed for burning, if it is strongly heated, it easily burns through thin lines, cuts out the smallest patterns and details. The template is familiar to all draftsmen, it is a convenient and easy way to outline a pattern on wood for further carving.

We emphasize that real professionals who have been carving wood for many years usually do not use ready-made tool kits. Masters choose each tool for themselves, often they make it themselves for a particular type of work. But for beginners, as we already wrote, a purchased set will be the best option. Then, already in the process of work, we are sure that you will perfectly understand what's what and will be able to create your own kit for carving wooden masterpieces.

It has long been a hackneyed topic, the manufacture of mini incisors from self-tapping screws. But again, maybe someone needs it.

You can make a chisel in 30 minutes.
For information, steel in self-tapping screws is used 10, 10 kp 20, 20 kp about these steels can be found in the steel grader (google for help) Hardened in water (possible in salt water) up to about 55-63 HRC units.

See each photo for a description of the process.

A self-tapping cutter can be made on a gas stove or using a gas burner. The cost of such a cutter will cost about 2-5 rubles (a self-tapping screw - about 2 r)

We take the largest self-tapping screw, it is about 3.8 mm in cross section and cut off the hat.

We heat and flatten with a hammer on some kind of piece of iron.

To make a semicircular profile, you need to take a corner as in the photo, it can be of different sizes, the profile will be different. At the corner, the inside is rounded.

It is better to form a semicircular cutter with a hammer with a rounded nose.

It turns out something like this.

The wider the flatten, the wider the cutter will be, but the thinner the cutting edge will be.

You can work with the form as your heart desires and fantasy, if only there is enough metal. Treat the inner part with sandpaper of different grain sizes from 100 to 1000

You can make cranberries with 2 pliers (pliers). It is necessary to heat and while the metal is hot, we make the shape that we need. But do not forget to make a semicircular profile.

With the help of a sharpener, we give shape and make a cutting edge, if there is no sharpener, you can do it with a file or needle file. And we sharpen it on a stone to a working condition, we quench it in water.

One of the most relevant topics for any carver is where to get a good woodworking tool? High-quality well-sharpened wood cutters can help out even an inexperienced craftsman. The cuts are smooth, clean, and working with such a tool is much easier! After trying different options for the source material for making tools for woodworking, from scalpels to razors, I settled on metal cutters.

They are quite fragile and strong at the same time. Carbon steel allows you to keep the edge of the blade sharp for a long time, it does not dull even on hard woods.

So, first we cut the cutter on the metal cutter according to the pre-applied drawing of the future cutter:

In our case, this is a small knife-cutter, which is the main tool of the cutter:

The presence of such an abundance of sparks during cutting indicates that the steel is good, carbonaceous, which means it is suitable for wood carving:

It turns out such a blank:

It is desirable that the part that will be in the handle is larger than the blade. This is for strength.

We grind the knife blade, constantly dipping it in cold water so that it does not overheat:

Now you need to make a handle for the knife. To do this, we take slats made of durable wood. In one part we draw the outline of the knife, the other as an overlay:

We cut a recess in the tree in the shape of a knife so that it drowns flush, coat both parts with PVA glue:

We glue the knife in a vice. It takes 12 hours to glue:

After gluing, we grind the handle, and bring the knife on the grinder to the desired sharpness.

According to this principle, you can make a knife with your own hands.

By the way, excellent wood chisels are obtained from metal drills:

And semicircular chisels from punches:

Knife - jamb can be made from a rapid saw:

Here are more wood cutters that I made with my own hands from a metal cutter:

The main tools of any woodcarver are shovel knives:

They are needed in different sizes and with different angles of inclination.

For wood cutting knives, all zones (blade, toe and heel) are used. The main requirements for knives: 1) they must be well-fitted to the hand of the master, 2) they must be made of good carbon steel with good sharpening. Knife-jamb for woodcarving can be made by hand ()

In addition to jambs for figured woodcarving, they are also used auxiliary knives:

They come in different sizes and shapes, some of them are needed for rough cutting, others for cutting through small details.

For geometric woodcarving, various chisels. They are semicircular with varying degrees of convexity.

Also with straight cut.

And triangular section

Semicircular chisels are sometimes made with a cutting edge beveled at an angle of 45 degrees.

Cutters are often used cranberries. These are the same semicircular chisels with a blade bent near the cutting end.

Today's video is about making a homemade wood cutter or bearing steel chisel. General principles will be shown on the basis of which other tools can be made. Chisels and wood cutters are not cheap pleasure, so using bearings you can profitably make the tool that you need.

A German bearing was used as a donor, the outer diameter is 22 mm. The bearing is not running, it worked for a long time, for 30 years it did not have any wear or backlash. Here we can say for sure that the bearing is very good and high quality. The first thing we will do is disassemble the separator, remove the balls and we will only need the outer race. From this clip, you can get a workpiece with a length of 65 millimeters. This is enough for the cutting part and there will be a little left in order to insert a wooden handle.

The workpiece is ready, now we will straighten it. But after it has cooled down, you can separate it with a regular hammer. The length turned out to be 63 millimeters, quite enough. It is not necessary to straighten it completely. It already has a small groove for the balls, it needs to be enlarged with a drill. Diamond dental discs will be used. These are diamond coated discs.

A semicircular inner surface has been obtained for our future incisor, there is no need to make it to the full length. Now you need to make a semicircular outer surface. This should be done with a sharpener on a small stone. Now there is no need to worry about overheating, because we still have to harden. Now a small finish with a fine abrasive disc. The most important thing is to process the inside well and you can start hardening.

Hardening of bearing steel

Further on how to harden metal for. In order to harden the bearing steel, which we decided to use for a homemade cutter, you need to heat it to a temperature of 830 - 860 degrees and cool it in oil. The temperature will be determined by the color of the metal burning. It should be bright red. On the Internet, you can find metal heat colors. For normal hardening, only the front part needs to be heated by about 10 millimeters. If you heat it evenly along the entire length of the workpiece, then it will simply burst. It should also be borne in mind that while you are carrying the metal to the oil, it has time to cool down a bit. Therefore, it is advisable to first slightly overheat, bring it to the oil, and when the metal has received the desired color, dip into it. The workpiece is hardened, this is done very easily.

Now, for the sake of curiosity, let's check for hardness. To do this, we will use a file to sharpen the chain. This is a very good hard file. Let's try what we have on the cutting edge. The file does not take this steel. If we take the shank, then the file is a wonderful material.

Release of a metal workpiece

Despite the fact that the blank for the future wood cutter is hardened, it is not yet finished. The cutter is very strong, but very fragile. If you work with such a cutter, then it will definitely break. It is imperative to make a tempering, which allows you to reduce brittleness without reducing hardness. Vacation is made at a temperature of 150-160 degrees. There is a slight difficulty in this, which lies in the fact that the colors of tarnish, for example, when heated, start from 180 to 200 - 220 degrees. This is already such a temperature that we cover the steel and it is slightly tempered. It loses its mechanical properties, its hardness degrees.
How can we understand these 150 degrees? We will need a piece of polypropylene that starts to place at about 140 degrees and starts to melt at 160 degrees. Use an ordinary iron for vacation, we will produce it within 2 hours.
With the help of a clamp, we fix the iron in a vertical position and plug it into an outlet. We will add temperature until the polypropylene begins to settle and leave small marks on the soleplate. This corresponds approximately to a temperature of 150 degrees.

Hello to all homemade lovers, every specialist knows well that the tool plays a big role in the work, namely its reliability and build quality. Thinking about this topic, thoughts arise to make the perfect handy tool with your own hands, in this case, these are wood cutters, and carving patterns with their help is quite an exciting activity, which cannot but rejoice. The main thing in creating incisors is to be more careful, since you will have to work with sharp objects, namely with the cutting part. The idea of ​​the author to make wood cutters with his own hands was accompanied by the fact that there was no such tool in the vicinity, and there were none in local stores either.

The properties that a good wood carving knife should have are as follows:
High-quality steel, which increases the life of knives and maintains sharpness for a long time.
Ergonomic (comfortable) handles.
Relative ease of manufacture.
Reliability.

To create this homemade product, you don’t need any hard-to-reach materials, they shouldn’t be here, since it was planned in advance that all the details were easily accessible to most carpenters and woodworking enthusiasts.

Required materials and tools:
* Band saw blades made of strong steel, which from experience confirms their long sharpening retention.
* Remains of oak planks left over from past works, since oak itself is durable, beautiful and technologically advanced in its own way.
Of the tools you will need:
* Electric sharpener.
* Belt sander with a grit of about 40, as well as sanding paper (grit 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000).
* Hacksaw.
* Respiratory protection - respirator (gauze mask).
* Joiner's glue.

That's all the details with the necessary tools are ready, now let's proceed to the phased assembly.

Step one.
The first step is to make a blade. From pieces of a saw blade about 8 cm long, the author turned metal blanks of blades of the desired shape, and supplied shanks for the blanks, their length was about 4.5-5 cm, these dimensions guarantee sufficient strength for attaching the blade to the handle.

For greater reliability of fixation (protection against loosening and falling out of the knife from the handle), I made semicircular cutouts on the sides of the shank.
The cross section of the knife blade has a wedge narrowing, the angle of which ranges from 10 to 15 degrees from the butt to the cutting edge, which is the descent of the blade. Well, the cutting edge is given this shape with a small chamfer, i.e. a large narrowing, and therefore an angle already at 25-30 degrees near the blade of the blade.

A large chamfer on the knives must be done even before the moment when the shank is not glued into the handle. The shape of the chamfer must be given on both sides, while observing a certain angle, the grinding of the metal must occur symmetrically. It is known from materials science that during intensive turning, the metal heats up, which causes it to be tempered, and this leads to the fact that the metal becomes softer and loses its ability to maintain sharpening. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece to be turned must be periodically cooled in water, thereby avoiding overheating. It is most convenient when a container with cold water is nearby and it is not difficult to lower the workpiece. To finally form the blade, as well as sharpen and polish it, you need to install the handle, which actually will be next.

Step two.
After long work with metal, we proceed to the manufacture of the handle, oak bars were well suited for this, the dimensions of which were 12 by 22 mm in cross section, and the length was slightly more than 120 mm. These bars were selected so that the surfaces to be glued were even. To simplify the work, we make a selection of the socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.

First, the shank is processed with a grinder along the edges in order to get rid of burrs. Then, attaching the shank to the prepared bar, we circle it with a pencil. With the help of chisels, we select the nest to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the workpiece, periodically assembling the structure assembly dry to check the fit of the bars to each other. In case of insufficient depth of the socket, the handle will either not stick together or, if the connection is poor, it will simply split when used. Also, too deep a socket will cause the blade to walk from side to side, which leads to undesirable consequences, namely cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Therefore, when selecting a socket for a shank, show maximum accuracy.

After you have made sure during the “dry” control assembly that all parts fit tightly, in this case the shank, and also in the absence of gaps between the bars-halves of the handle, you can start gluing. We apply the carpenter's ley on the surface of the bar and into the nest under the shank, since it is unrealistic to achieve accuracy in depth when manually selecting the nest, then just in case it is better to fill it with glue, after which the shank dries out due to its hardness, in case of inaccuracy. Glue must also be applied to the adjacent part of the handle, but with a smaller layer.

Step three.
Then we combine the parts (you need to connect the ends of the bars located closer to the blade as accurately as possible), and tighten them with clamps. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth and leave for 12 hours until completely dry.

Step four.
Now we will fit the handle to a suitable shape for the cutting tool, usually a slight bend on the back to rest the thumb.

But you can’t do without the features of these pens, they differ in that
their back part is wider and more rounded than the one closer to the blade, because of this, all the blanks for the handles in the first stage of processing look more like a truncated elongated pyramid, and there is also a recess for the index finger.

After gluing the workpiece, the back part is sawn off with a hacksaw, to a size of 12 cm.
Then we grind the ends of the handles with a belt grinder, do not forget to use personal protective equipment - goggles and a respirator, since oak dust can cause allergies.

Grinding is carried out to start with a grit of 40, and then in ascending order until the workpiece is smooth.
Coated with nitro lacquer.

Step four.
We finish the cutting part, we need a small chamfer, the sharpening angle of which is approximately 25-30 ° for these knives. To form a small bevel, the author uses sandpaper of different grits, gradually increasing the grit, starting from 240, moving to 800, and then to 1000, eventually everything is polished on a leather belt clamped on a bar. If the sharpening is successful, then the wood should be cut both along and across the fibers without much effort, while the cut surface should be even and shiny, the so-called "oil" cut.
Several knives were made using this manufacturing template, in general they are quite reliable and easy to use, which is very decent for a non-professional.