Natural ventilation in the house with your own hands. Typical schemes and rules for drafting a ventilation system in a private house

Even at the stage of designing a house, you need to think about fresh air in the rooms. Moreover, it may be that self-designed ventilation will work no worse than professionally designed. Perhaps the solution will not be so elegant - the main thing is that it be workable.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation is understood as a specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for a person. In general, the system is very complex in the calculation. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least a certain group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grid, the fan, plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many more little things. In order for self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which the exhaust air is replaced with fresh air.

For you to understand how serious it is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, there will be less and less oxygen, and more and more carbon dioxide and other waste products. As the amount of oxygen decreases, well-being worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few figures, physiologists, showing the effect of CO2 carbon dioxide levels on a person's condition:

Physiologists consider the content of carbon dioxide in the air at the level of 1400 ppm - the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond.

illustrative example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, here is a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how much ventilation is needed in a modern house / apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experiment conditions. Bedroom 13 squares (37 cubes), one person and one medium sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs half the night and half the day on a timer. There is no supply, fresh air access through windows that have the function of ventilation and micro-ventilation.

Information to explain the graph:

• Point 1. From 20:00 - work at the computer, the doors are ajar, the window is closed.
• Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were ajar, everyone left the room.
• Between 1-2 they returned to the room, the window was closed, then opened. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
• Point 3. At 3-35 the doors and the window are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
• Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The level of CO2 is 2600 ppm, which is well below the extreme norm. The window was opened, carbon dioxide levels returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This can be the cause of fatigue, poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. Only a weather station with the ability to measure the level of carbon dioxide (with memory) is required. Looking at the results of the experiment, it is difficult to overestimate the importance of the ventilation system. Let's understand how it works.

The principle of operation of ventilation of the house and apartment

All ventilation systems are divided into two types - with natural air movement and forced.

Air always moves from an area of ​​higher pressure to an area of ​​lower pressure. This property is used in natural ventilation systems. The higher pressure zone is usually located in an apartment / house. If there are ventilation ducts / openings, the air from the premises tends to get into the street. But a new one must take the place of the “gone”, otherwise the movement will stop. That is why for the normal operation of the ventilation system, both the outflow of exhaust air and the inflow of fresh air are necessary. And this is worth taking care of. Only then will ventilation - made / developed by one's own hands or not - work effectively.

Keep in mind that "breathing" walls have nothing to do with air exchange. At best, they help regulate humidity. Only. Similarly, conventional air conditioning does not add oxygen. It only maintains the set parameters of the already available air. It removes only excess moisture, and has nothing to do with air exchange. Air inflow must be provided in the same way as outflow, using windows (not the most efficient way) or special devices.

Inflow problems

Here, it would seem, what is easier - make a hole in the wall - here you have an influx of oxygen. Maybe somewhere this is true, but not in our climate, when the temperature outside is far from comfortable for most of the year. What's wrong? A number of unpleasant moments:

As you can see, a "simple" hole in the wall becomes a very complex device. And few of this list can be neglected. Existence will be too uncomfortable.

Exhaust ventilation

The exhaust ventilation in an apartment building is a large pipe that runs through all the floors and out to the roof. All apartments "in the riser" are connected to it. Under normal conditions, due to the difference in pressure in the apartment and on the roof, a "draught" is formed, which draws air from the premises (it also works if there is an inflow).

This is how you can organize exhaust ventilation in a house or apartment. Just keep in mind that the entire required volume of air should “pull out” the channel

In apartment buildings, risers are usually located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. All other rooms are ventilated through these hoods. For normal air exchange in the bathroom door and in the kitchen, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps (under the door or make overflow holes in the wall) or install grilles.

In a private house, everything is organized in much the same way: in the kitchen or bathroom, the main ventilation duct is installed, which leads to the roof. Don't finish it in the attic. Even if the attic is cold and ventilated. With temperature differences and high humidity of the exhaust air, a large amount of condensate is formed. Even with good ventilation in the attic, it does not have time to be removed, the ceiling “gets wet”, the walls become damp. In general, this is a bad idea.

Duct material

A few words about the material from which the exhaust ventilation duct is made in a private house. Most often, galvanized pipes are used, and - round section. They have minimal airflow resistance. The second place in popularity is occupied. There are more problems with them - they accumulate static, which contributes to the accumulation of dust, they are less resistant to fire. The advantages include simpler installation, the presence of ready-made shaped elements, with which it is easy to create any system. In the case of these materials, the choice is yours - what you like more, then use it.

What you should not do is to drive the exhaust duct out of the brick. Firstly, it is expensive (you also need a foundation for it), and secondly, it is the most problematic in operation, as it has uneven walls, which contributes to the accumulation of dust. In brick walls that are not covered with a metal sleeve, condensate accumulates, due to which the brick quickly collapses. In general, brick exhaust ducts are the last century.

Additional devices

What else may be needed in an exhaust system is check valves. They prevent the air from moving in the opposite direction, which occurs when the thrust is overturned. When the pressure in the apartment / house becomes lower than on the street. Also, non-return valves prevent the spread of odors from the kitchen / toilet to other rooms connected to the channel.

Check valves - a simple device

In general, the device of the exhaust system is simpler. But only if the cross section of the ventilation duct is correctly calculated, the route is correctly drawn up and the installation is correct.

natural or forced

There are two types of ventilation - natural and forced. What's better? It's hard to say for sure. Everyone decides for himself, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of both types.

Natural ventilation in the house works due to the difference in pressure in the room and on the street (due to the existence of the very “natural draft”). Its advantages are noiselessness, independence from electricity. Cons - low productivity, which requires large pipes, the inability to control / regulate the intensity of work, dependence on the state of the external environment. In summer, natural ventilation often does not work, and sometimes it works in the opposite direction. This is when hot air is “pulled” into the room through the exhaust ventilation duct.

Forced ventilation in a private house - fans of the appropriate type are installed

In forced ventilation, fans provide air movement. It can be adjustable, works in any weather, but only if there is electricity and efficient fans. And this is a minus. Even two. The first is volatility, the second is the noise that fans make during operation. Therefore, in forced ventilation systems, many prefer to use plastic air ducts. Precisely because they are "quiet".

Ventilation schemes for a private house and apartment

The simplest option is implemented in small houses and apartments. Supply air openings are located in the living rooms, hoods - in the kitchen and bathroom. The air entering the premises through the cracks under the doors enters the kitchen and bathroom, where it is removed. This scheme works with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bnot more than 100 squares.

When supply ventilation - separate devices in each room, exhaust - through the kitchen or bath

In houses with a total area of ​​​​more than one hundred and fifty squares, organizing two separate systems - supply and exhaust. Each of them has its own duct system. With such a device in each room there are exhaust and supply openings in each of the rooms. In this case, the intensity of air inflow and outflow can be adjusted in each room - you can adjust the atmosphere to the requirements of its inhabitants.

With a centralized supply ventilation system, it is easier to prepare the air taken from the street - you can make a single cleaning and heating system. Prepared air can already be diluted throughout the premises. In this case, each room has two ventilation openings - one supply, one - exhaust. They are located in opposite corners, closed with grilles or diffusers.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house can be organized in this way: the supply is decentralized, the exhaust is centralized

Even with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, the supply ventilation system can be made decentralized, as in the first scheme. With the right selection of equipment, it will work no less efficiently. The question is what will be economically more profitable, since it will be necessary to solve the problem of air preparation for each supply channel. And the equipment is not cheap.

Do-it-yourself ventilation: an action plan

To independently design a ventilation system, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

The collection of information and elementary calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

Preliminary data is ready. Think about where and what devices should be located for some more time.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the questions on the scheme are resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to the detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

Installation and setup

"It remains" to find, buy, mount. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this item. Only after that can we say that do-it-yourself ventilation is completely ready.

But that's not all. Do-it-yourself ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process - to achieve consistent operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done often. With a change of season, a change in the number of residents, a change in weather conditions. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

By the way, we advise you to think. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gleaned, and if there is a shortage of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Other Solutions

The market does not stand still, and new solutions are being offered today. For example, there are recuperator systems that immediately, through one hole in the wall, remove the exhaust air and supply fresh air. This is an ideal solution if ventilation is taken care of after renovation or if it is necessary to solve the problem only in some rooms. The main thing is that these rooms have at least one wall facing the street.

The disadvantage of this method of organizing ventilation in a house or apartment is the price of such equipment. The cost of one such device is more than $400.

Ventilation is one of the most important systems for providing any residential and non-residential premises. Without a well-organized air exchange, one can not even dream of comfortable operation of the premises. Supply air ducts are an integral part of any ventilation system.

These elements are responsible for supplying fresh oxygen. You can handle the arrangement of natural and forced ventilation with your own hands. Read the suggested recommendations and get started.

The supply air vent must be placed on the wall opposite to the wall with the hood.

The following places are suitable for placing the supply channel:

Modern plastic windows in most cases are initially equipped with a supply ventilation valve with a filter and damper. This configuration makes the operation of the valve adjustable and as convenient as possible.

A hole for air flow can be made in the wall. But if in the region of your residence the temperature in winter goes far beyond zero, icy air will enter the room through such a channel. Because of this, condensation or even frost will begin to appear on the wall.

To solve this problem, ventilation systems are equipped with special air heaters.

The most optimal place to place the supply air vent is the space under the windowsill. During the operation of such ventilation, there are no significant problems and inconveniences. At the entrance to the room, the air will be sufficiently warmed up by the heat of the heating radiator, which makes it possible to refuse the installation of additional heaters.

Ventilation valves may have a different shape. There are no specific recommendations for choosing a form. Choose the valve that is most convenient for you to install and use.

Set for arrangement of ventilation

1. Sledgehammer.
2. Spanners.
3. Locksmith's hammer.
4. Perforator.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Ratchet wrench.
7. Clamps.

The installation kit can be supplemented and reduced depending on the method of arrangement of supply ventilation chosen by you. At this point, you have to orient yourself.

Installation manual for natural supply ventilation

Among the main advantages of natural supply ventilation, its energy independence should be noted - fans and no other electrical appliances are included in such a system.

First step. Attach the body of the purchased valve to the wall surface under the window. Use a marker or pencil to mark the location of the air inlet.

Second step. Using a puncher or other suitable tool, make a through hole in accordance with the markings. For most rooms, it is sufficient that the diameter of the air inlet is 60 mm. Make the channel with a 5-7 degree slope towards the street.

Third step. Insert a heater and an air pipe into the prepared channel. Seal the voids around the pipe with thermal insulation material. In some situations, foam can be used instead of insulation.

Fourth step. Put on the vent valve body so that it does not come into contact with the air pipe. Mark the places for placing the fasteners. Drill holes according to the marks and screw the valve body with self-tapping screws.

Fifth step. Insert the silencer into the housing. Usually this element is present in the valve configuration.

Sixth step. Place the face cap on the installed vent valve. Outside, put on a protective mesh (grille) on the ventilation hole.

The installation of the inlet valve is completed. Select the number of such channels individually in accordance with the volume of the serviced premises. For more convenience, you can purchase a valve model with a gate valve - this is a very convenient solution to use, allowing you to open and close ventilation as needed.

Arrangement of forced ventilation

In some situations, the possibilities of natural supply ventilation are not enough to provide the necessary air exchange. Especially for such cases, there is forced ventilation.

Key Features

Among the main features of such a system, it is necessary to highlight the presence of fans, due to which air is pumped. The system requires an electrical connection.

There are several types of supply ventilation systems, namely:

• installations for servicing one room;
• installations for servicing the whole house;
• stacked units, including air ducts, fans, various filters, noise absorbers, recuperators and other additional elements.

There are 2 air supply options:

• straight from the fans;
• through the duct system.

If the second option is more suitable for your case, the system must be additionally equipped with plastic or stainless steel air ducts. The end of each air duct is closed with a grate.

If you wish, you can equip your ventilation system with automation tools, for example, a temperature sensor. On the modern market there is a large selection of automation, which will allow you to equip the most efficient and easy-to-use ventilation unit.

For placement in a private house, it is most rational to choose a type-setting ventilation system. Such a complex is located in the attic or in another convenient room, taking into account the fact that the fans make quite a lot of noise during operation.

An extensive network of air ducts is connected to the type-setting installation, through which air enters different rooms of the house.

The ventilation unit must be equipped with filters. If you wish, you can additionally purchase and install various kinds of disinfectants, humidifiers and other similar items.

Air ducts with rectangular (square) and round profiles are available for sale. Round models are more preferable, because. they do not have large aerodynamic losses. From materials, give preference to aluminum and stainless steel.

To ensure the required tightness, the ventilation system is equipped with flanges and seals.

Among the advantages of forced ventilation, independence from weather conditions deserves special attention, which makes such a system much more efficient than its counterpart with natural induction.

Mounting

Traditionally, supply valves are installed in the walls. Finished openings are equipped with fans of suitable power (selected taking into account the volume of the serviced room).

First step. Prepare a hole for the duct in the outer wall. Do everything in the same way as in the case of arranging natural ventilation. The only significant difference is that the hole can be equipped in any convenient place.

Second step. Insert the air supply pipe into the hole.

Third step. Insert the fan into the installed duct pipe.

Fourth step.

Fifth step. Place a device with a filter, air heater and noise absorber on the inside of the wall. Install additional devices if necessary. Connect all electronics to the mains and check the operation of the system.

Immediately after completing the arrangement of the supply ventilation, check its performance. Also, such checks must be carried out regularly during the operation of the system. The recommended frequency is at least every three months.

Verification is extremely simple. Close all doors and windows in the room, take a sheet of any loose paper and hold it near the air inlet. If the sheet noticeably deviates from the ventilation duct, or even just moves, your system is working properly even with doors and windows closed.

If the sheet does not react in any way, open the doors and vents. If the paper still does not deflect after this, your air duct is most likely clogged and needs to be cleaned.

If the paper deflects when the doors and vents are open, and does not react in any way when the doors are closed, there is not enough air. This indicates the need for arranging forced ventilation.

Thus, with the installation of supply ventilation, you can handle it yourself without any problems. You only need to evaluate the volumes and features of your premises, choose the optimal type of ventilation unit and install all the necessary elements in accordance with the instructions received. Follow the given recommendations and everything will surely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation

When building your own home, everything needs to be thought out at the design stage. It depends on how deeply and correctly the communications in the house, including ventilation, are thought out, how comfortable the inhabitants will feel in it. If the moment of designing ventilation in the house is missed, then you can do this work after. But there will be no guarantee that it will turn out exactly what you want. Yes, and doing alterations is a rather troublesome and costly task. If the ventilation system of the dwelling is provided even in the process of laying it, then it will be really easy and comfortable to breathe in it, and most importantly - to breathe environmentally friendly air. How to make ventilation in a private house? There are several options to choose from:

• the most common natural ventilation;
• progressive-exhaust, in other words, forced ventilation;
• combination of two types of ventilation (mixed type).

You can choose the ventilation system depending on the natural and environmental conditions. If around the forest, lake and air is unspeakably fresh, then, of course, there is nothing to think about, natural ventilation is installed. If the site for the house is located near some enterprises and its environmental friendliness is in great doubt, then, of course, we install forced ventilation with the arrangement of filters. A good owner, starting any work, advocates primarily for an economical, but high-quality result. Let's look at the factors that affect this result. In order to ensure effective ventilation, you should pay attention to:

• cleanliness of the surrounding air;
• building material used to build a home.

Houses built from the following materials are suitable for the installation of natural exhaust: timber, brick, adobe, gas block, foam block and expanded clay block. Forced ventilation should be planned for houses made of sandwich panels, frame models and expanded polystyrene concrete.

What is air circulation

Air circulation consists of:

• air inflow - air entering through open windows and doors;
• air flow - air moves through the dwelling;
• air extraction - air outlet through the ventilation openings.

In order for unhindered air circulation to occur, it is necessary to properly mount the doors and windows of the dwelling. Doors should contain a small grill, or installation should be done so that there is a gap of about two centimeters at the bottom. Without such holes, air circulation will not occur. The room for the air exhaust device is usually chosen the most unclaimed.

Characteristics of types of ventilation

To fully determine the choice of the type of ventilation, consider what their essence is:

natural ventilation

Natural ventilation can be different, the similarity is in one thing - it happens in a natural way.

• Infiltration. This process of air ventilation occurs as a result of air entering through the non-hermetic parts of windows and doors. When using wooden doors that have a high air throughput (10-20 kg/hour per square meter). This type of natural ventilation is quite suitable for a house with an area of ​​​​100 m 2 to 140 m 2.
• Airing. Such a process consists in the independent entry of air into the windows and doorways. But its disadvantage lies in the fact that heat is lost during the ventilation process. The time of complete filling of the dwelling with fresh air is from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours, taking into account the area of ​​the dwelling. If airing is carried out in winter, then during the ventilation period the window frame and adjacent parts of the room are cooled. As a result of this cooling, fogging and condensation occur. If you ventilate by opening the windows to the full, then the circulation of fresh air occurs in 8 minutes. And if you also open the door, then in 4 minutes.

  Important! But do not forget about drafts, they are very dangerous to health.

• Ventilation process with exhaust valves for windows and walls. When replacing wooden windows with metal-plastic, the ingress of air into the room completely stops. Given this fact, it is best to look at the windows that will have ventilation holes. If the windows did not work out, then you can make a ventilation hole in the wall. It is a pipe with a diametrical section of 100 mm, which is mounted through the wall. Outside and inside closed with a special mesh.

Important! It is best to mount such ventilation holes immediately behind the battery so that the incoming air has time to warm up.

Forced ventilation

When wall valves do not cope with the ventilation process, they install a forced ventilation system. This system includes ventilation equipment: filters, air valves, fan, devices for heating air and absorbing noise. It is also necessary to stock up on air ducts and various items that help in the distribution of air: grilles, diffusers. Don't forget about the air intake grille.

Exhaust ventilation

For the installation of exhaust air purification, special channels are designed. Usually they are made of brick, so you should first think carefully about the scheme. Sometimes such a system is mounted in the form of additional shafts. They run along the walls of the house. So, exhaust ventilation can be performed in the following options:

• build ventilation shafts in the wall;
• make exhaust ducts in the manner of shafts adjacent to the wall;
• install ventilation shafts in the form of hanging boxes;
• bring exhaust shafts to the roof.

Exhaust ventilation can be natural and mechanical. Natural type hoods are arranged if the intake of clean air is small. In this case, the exit from the ventilation shafts is closed with a conventional grate. Otherwise, equip the hood of a mechanical type. For this, special ventilation devices are installed at the exits of the ventilation shafts. They are of different types. Their wide range allows you to choose a fan for every taste.

What are air ducts

When installing various types of ventilation hoods, appropriate air ducts are used. Most often these are air ducts with a round diametrical section. Since the inside of such outlets is ideally smooth, the air passes through it without encountering much resistance.

If rectangular ducts are used, then the resistance is higher, but it is easier to install. Often, ventilation hood shafts have certain bends, then it is better to use flexible ducts. They are used if it is necessary to connect two parts of the ducts.

At the junctions, the air resistance is much higher than at other places. Therefore, you should try to make such connections to a minimum.

Ventilation hoods with recuperation

The recuperation process is the heating of the incoming air flows by the air at the ventilation outlet. In other words, the opposite flows exchange heat. This operation allows you to significantly save on heating outdoor air. But in cold weather, the heat of the output stream is not enough to heat the incoming stream, then you have to use a heater. With such a ventilation system, the exhaust can only be forced. For installation of a system with recuperation, a separate place should be allocated, for example, in the basement.

Ventilation Planning Steps

Whatever the house, and the type of ventilation, when planning installation, certain rules should be followed:

• First you need to correctly calculate the volume of air exchange. This is the determination of the amount of incoming air that meets all sanitary and environmental standards.
• Calculation of the dimensions of the duct section.
• The right choice of type of ventilation hood. To do this, you should take into account all the features discussed above.
• Introduction of a plan-scheme of exhaust ducts into the project of a private house. If the circuit is drawn up correctly, then it will fully ensure good work.
• Determination of a place in the house for the installation of a ventilation system.
• Choosing a place for air intake and its exit.
• Direct mounting of the ventilation system.

Calculate ventilation correctly

When calculating ventilation, attention should be paid to the main factors:

• How many people will live in the house.
• Directly the size of the house.
• How much air can fit in the rooms of the house.

Be sure to take into account the work of technical appliances, electricity, hob. All this absorbs oxygen. We also pay attention to which rooms require the cleanest air. Various methods can be used for these calculations. Some of them require the presence of professionals to compile tables and charts. You can refer to building codes, SNiPAs, GOSTs, etc. In everyday construction, calculations are most often performed on the value of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, sanitary standards and multiplicity.

• The easiest way is to calculate taking into account the area. This method is used for the size of air exchange in a dwelling. According to the standards, three cubic meters should be supplied per square meter per hour of incoming air. The calculation process takes place according to the formula: you should multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house by the amount of air according to the norm.
• We calculate using the air exchange rate. This calculation is a little more complicated and uses several indicators. Usually this calculation is performed with the help of a specialist. The multiplicity is a value that shows how many times in one hour a complete replacement of air occurs. The standards for this value vary for certain types of premises.
• Calculation taking into account sanitary standards. In this case, the calculations are carried out taking into account the norm of the amount of air per person living in the room. For each room, the norms are different (for the bedroom, for the kitchen, for the dining room, etc.). As a result, all data norms are added up and get the total volume of air intake.​

We install the exhaust system in the house

We begin installation with the main ventilation shaft. The best place to place it is the wall that runs through the center of the house. With this placement, it is easier to attach pipes that act as an air duct from each living room of the house. When planning and installing hoods, horizontal bends should be made as little as possible, as this weakens the draft. As a result, ventilation efficiency is significantly reduced. All branches are eventually connected to a common pipe, which provides an outlet for air. Usually it is located on the roof.

We provide typical dimensions of the hood:

• The rectangular section of the exhaust shaft in the wall is 13 × 13 cm.
• The width of the wall that contains the exhaust shaft is 38 cm.
• The exhaust shaft for a heating boiler or fireplace is 13 × 26 cm.
• The diameter section of the pipes used for ventilation is 10-12 cm.
• The exhaust pipe on the roof must be higher than the level of the ridge, and the thickness of its walls must be at least two and a half bricks.

If the wall is made thinner, then the air at the outlet will cool very quickly and return back. And if there is not enough height, then the traction process will be disrupted.

In addition, be sure to take care of the air flow. If doors and windows are tightly closed and air flow cannot be carried out, then the ventilation system will not be able to work effectively. Therefore, you should take care that there is a gap of about two centimeters wide between the doors and the floor.

So, to ensure the proper operation of the ventilation system, many nuances should be taken into account and special attention should be paid to its layout. Only in this case it is possible to ensure fresh air in the house and comfortable living in it.

A modern home cannot do without energy-efficient ventilation. We learn schemes and options for arranging ventilation in a private house with our own hands.

Current trends in construction oblige to take care of the energy efficiency of buildings. High-quality insulation is almost impossible to perform without providing a high-quality thermal cut-off between the internal microclimate and the external environment, which requires the proper organization of the ventilation system.

Energy efficient ventilation

• Existing set of solutions
• Recovery plants

Why ventilation control is so important

The rapid rise in the cost of energy resources requires the adoption of measures to reduce the cost of heating and air conditioning buildings. From the point of view of building technologies, these tasks are solved relatively simply, but a number of problems arise.

The fact is that at the moment no material has been invented that ideally combines load-bearing and heat-insulating properties. Because of this, the enclosing structures of most buildings have a multilayer structure: the bearing base is located inside, and the heat-insulating shell is located outside.

This arrangement of layers is especially advantageous from the point of view of heating inertia: a more massive layer accumulates enough heat to smooth out temperature fluctuations between active operation and downtime of the heating system.

However, because of this, the steam that seeps through the supporting structure under the influence of the difference in partial pressures inside and outside has a high temperature and can condensate inside the insulation. Therefore, a continuous vapor barrier is arranged inside the building, forming a shell impervious to atmospheric moisture.

On the one hand, high-quality isolation of the indoor environment from the outdoor environment helps to eliminate convection heat transfer. This is extremely important in houses with zero and positive energy balance, where the insulation of the main building envelope is made to the highest standard and the main heat leakage occurs through glazing and gas exchange with the outdoor environment.

However, on the other hand, one should not lose sight of the fact that a person alone excretes up to 1.5 liters of water daily through the lungs and skin, and to this you need to add the moisture evaporated during cooking and wet cleaning, indoor plants and pets. As the relative humidity rises, the dew point also rises, which can cause condensation to form on windows even when it is not cold outside.

The other side of the issue is the suitability of the room atmosphere for breathing. The normal proportion of carbon dioxide in the air is 0.025%, which corresponds to 250–300 PPM (parts per million). A concentration of 1400 PPM is considered to be the limiting and dangerous for human health, however, raising the CO2 concentration to 500–600 PPM already causes significant discomfort: there are painful sensations in the respiratory organs, and at night it is simply not possible to sleep normally.

Using the simplest calculations, it can be established that in a normal state, a house with an internal volume of 300 m3 contains only 75 liters of carbon dioxide. That is, even one person will be able to increase concentration to an uncomfortable level within 6–8 hours, and not in a single room, but throughout the house!

Existing set of solutions

The room atmosphere is regulated by limited air exchange with the outdoor environment. When installing a ventilation system, a compromise must be sought between the effective removal of excess moisture with carbon dioxide and the saving of heated room air. For these purposes, three variants of systems can be used:

Breezers - point ventilation points installed zonal on external walls. These ventilation devices are electronically controlled and can operate in several modes, including heating the supply air.

Natural exhaust ventilation - one or more channels in the central part of the building, for the most part representing straight accelerating sections without horizontal branches. Due to the natural rarefaction, draft is created, due to which air is removed through the ventilation duct.

Air enters the house through non-sealed junctions, for example, gaps in window frames. If the house is carefully sealed, the air enters through the window sashes in the contour ventilation mode.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation uses air pumps to move air. The pressure difference created by them allows not only to distribute the supply of fresh air over the area of ​​​​the house through channels, but also to organize its intake from one point. With such a device, the user knows exactly the actual volume of air exchange and has full control over the operation of the system.

From the point of view of convenience and efficiency, forced-type ventilation systems with an accelerating section are considered optimal, which allows them to work with limited performance in the absence of power supply.

But for the device and proper functioning of such systems, careful survey work must be carried out, during which the air flow organization scheme is determined, as well as an economic justification, because controlled ventilation must first of all meet the requirements of energy efficiency.

Differences between zonal and general house ventilation

Breather and duct ventilation are comparable in functionality. Both types of systems allow you to adjust the intensity of air exchange, can work on daily and weekly schedules, provide filtration, recirculation to ensure forced convection, heating and heat recovery from the exhaust stream.

The most important differences between these types of systems lie in the nuances of installation and ergonomics. Breezers can be installed at any stage of construction and even after completion of finishing work. They have a hidden connection system and a fairly low noise level comparable to household air conditioners.

At the same time, breathers belong to the category of "smart" household appliances: they can be controlled from mobile devices and combined into a common house network. This makes it possible to implement their alternating mode of operation: half of the breathers provide inflow, the other half operate in exhaust mode, which eliminates the problem of excessive rarefaction and achieves high efficiency.

For all its merits, breather ventilation cannot be considered a panacea. The restriction to installation exclusively on external walls almost always leads to the formation of blind spots, especially in large and multi-storey buildings. It is quite difficult to coordinate the operation of more than 4–5 breathers, and in the absence of an internal sealed environment, it is almost impossible.

The organization of ventilation in large houses is mainly carried out according to a centralized principle: a single unit of air pumps, supply and exhaust ducts, as well as distribution duct systems.

There are few obvious advantages of a centralized system, of which the most obvious is the reduction in the cost of organizing additional air intake or air inflow points, while the placement of these points is practically not limited to anything. Another plus is the low cost of maintenance and reduced energy consumption, which is especially important in the long run.

However, ventilation ducts are the largest type of intra-house communications. To organize a system of channels, a significant increase in draft ceilings or the use of special technologies for the construction of partitions and ceilings is required. Plus, the calculation of a centralized system is more difficult to perform, errors are fraught with the appearance of drafts and channel noise.

Nevertheless, all these shortcomings are leveled by the main highlight of the supply and exhaust ventilation - the ability to fully recover the heat of the exhaust air.

Recovery plants

The essence of recuperation is extremely simple: the exhaust and supply flows are passed through channels that have a common partition made of heat-conducting material with the largest possible contact area. At the same time, due to the equalization of temperatures between the two flows, the share of heat losses through ventilation is reduced and fresh air is heated to a comfortable temperature. To implement this principle of operation, a massive heat exchanger with channels of complex shape is required, so the recuperation in the breathers does not work so efficiently.

The use of recuperation in the northern regions of Europe has firmly entered the practice of civil housing construction, and there has long been no doubt about the profitability of these installations. Three types of recuperators have been developed for home use:

Heat exchangers are the simplest recuperators, which are two chambers with adjacent walls with fins like radiators. They can be easily integrated into small ventilation systems, but are not supplied with air pumps, due to which they remain a fairly budget solution.

The heat recovery ventilation unit has, in addition to fans and a heat exchanger, a control unit that allows you to monitor operating parameters and fine-tune the operating modes. Equipped with condensate removal systems and air filters, they can be used as a single solution for organizing a central ventilation unit.

Recuperators with a secondary circuit - in fact, they are heat pumps, in which, due to the low temperature delta, the intensity of heat transfer significantly increases. They allow not only to equalize the temperature between the two channels, but also to additionally heat the supply air, cooling the exhaust air more than usual. Like the devices of the previous type, they are a single turnkey solution, but they are more expensive, although they are guaranteed to pay off in regions with a cold climate.

Air exchange calculation and system configuration

Like many other components of individual construction, the organization of ventilation systems in private homes is not subject to strict state regulations.

However, one can rely on air exchange rates for apartment buildings, according to which the minimum supply of fresh air for each resident is at least 60 m3 / h, with a nominal total air exchange rate in residential premises of 0.35 of their total volume per hour.

Also, SNiP 41-01-2003 establishes the need to increase the intensity of exhaust systems in non-residential premises: kitchens, bathrooms, laundries and storerooms - from 50 to 120 m3 / h, depending on the purpose.

These data are often sufficient to determine the performance of the breather ventilation complex. The calculation of the central supply and exhaust system is carried out according to a more complex scheme. For example, it is necessary to ensure sufficient throughput of ventilation ducts and intake grilles to avoid the formation of noise, as well as to choose the right anemostats in order to maintain the normal air flow rate in each individual room.

For buildings with more than two floors above ground, it is also required to provide a fire emergency mode, in which the supply of fresh air is stopped and smoke is removed from the main escape routes.

The placement of air supply and intake points in a private house is carried out according to a fairly simple scheme. A supply channel with the required throughput is introduced for each living room, while the number of inflow points is determined by the allowable dimensions and throughput of anemostats.

The air intake point in rooms up to 50 m2 can be only one, it is placed near the floor in a place diametrically opposite to the inflow. Channel branches for each room are included in a single line that runs along the ceiling of the interior corridor and a common technical riser to the room where the central ventilation unit is located and it is possible to connect to external channels.

Only exhaust ducts are brought into the technical premises, this is done in order to exclude the penetration of unpleasant odors into the habitat. In general, almost all ventilation systems in private houses have excess exhaust system capacity - 20–30% higher than the inflow capacity.

When choosing the central node of the ventilation system, you can start from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building: manufacturers provide a sufficient supply of power, and the rated performance is determined by automation based on the readings of humidity sensors, gas analyzers and a daily-weekly timer. You also need to remember that technical ventilation (clothes dryers, kitchen hoods) is organized separately from the general house, although some central nodes have additional outlets for connecting technical channels.published

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Ventilation is a necessary measure that ensures the comfort of living and compliance with sanitary standards in the room. Forced ventilation is especially necessary inside damp rooms, as well as in houses with synthetic insulation. What types of ventilation are used in private construction, and what are the schemes needed when creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands?

Ventilation system

Why is a ventilation system necessary, and is it possible to do without its construction? Maybe just ventilate the rooms? Let's see why ventilation devices are installed in houses.

The ventilation system provides air exchange between the street and the indoor living space. This is necessary for the timely removal of moisture and the supply of oxygen into the rooms. Removal of moisture, air exchange provide, firstly, a healthy microclimate, and, secondly, prevent dampness and wetting of the walls. On dry walls, a fungus does not develop, which “eats” the wall, turning it into dust over decades. In addition, the presence of the fungus is dangerous lung diseases. 90% of people who live in houses with fungus on the walls often catch a cold, suffer from bronchitis, and have allergic reactions.

The construction of ventilation is necessary not always and not everywhere. Sometimes it is enough to periodically ventilate the room or keep it in the “ventilation” mode (when the slit is almost invisible, but air is exchanged through it). Such measures of natural ventilation are sufficient for living rooms in which food is not cooked, bathed, and water is not used.

For domestic rooms, the construction of an exhaust system is necessary in any case. They cook food, heat water, wash, and steam is formed, which must be removed in a timely manner (taken out into the street). In the absence of ventilation, the steam settles on the walls, condenses in drops and is absorbed into the surface of the wall.

Types of ventilation

The main distinguishing feature of ventilation systems is the way air circulates. Either it moves by gravity, or it is forced to move (for example, by a fan). On this basis, natural and forced schemes for organizing ventilation are distinguished.

In addition, the schemes differ in the following factor - in which part of the system air movement is organized. Or the ventilation works for retraction (fresh air dilutes the stale air inside the room). Either the system works on the hood (purposefully removes moisture and odors). According to this principle, ventilation systems are divided into:

• supply;
• exhaust;
• supply and exhaust.

And now we will characterize each possible scheme of ventilation of your room.

Do-it-yourself natural ventilation in a private house

The most inexpensive system to operate. It comes with some construction costs, and does not require any costs during operation. Air movement is provided by natural factors: the difference in pressure and temperature (between indoors and outdoors).

How to make natural ventilation? To do this, during the construction of the house, an exhaust shaft is built, and exhaust pipes are laid in the walls (for example, from asbestos cement). Ventilation holes are made in the walls of each room, which are connected to the laid pipes and a common hood.

The shaft rises above the roof of the building. The greater the height of the pipe, the greater the pressure and temperature difference will be, the better the natural draft.

Consider the feature: if the ventilation openings of the rooms are interconnected by internal pipes, then odors can penetrate from one room to another.

Disadvantages of natural circulation:

• difficult to adjust, it is impossible to vary the force of the hood;
• hardly works in summer;
• When the wind is strong, the smells get back into the house.

Forced ventilation

Forced air extraction is devoid of the above disadvantages of natural ventilation. It is adjustable (if necessary, the pulling force is increased or weakened), it works at any time of the year, in any weather.

For forced air movement, an electric motor and a fan are required. When its blades rotate, a thrust is created that captures the air flow. Thus, moisture, odors are removed from the room to the outside.

When arranging such a ventilation system in a private house with your own hands, the costs are higher than for building a natural one. In addition to the construction of channels in the walls or shaft, it is necessary to provide a device for pulling (motor, fan). In addition, the operation of such a system requires electricity.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation is the supply of fresh air. It can be natural (the gap between the window frame and the double-glazed window or the “ventilation” mode). It can also be forced (air from outside is sucked in by a fan, or a common system for the whole house is possible: air is drawn into one of the pipes and then distributed between rooms).

Forced ventilation is used for maintenance of living rooms (living room, bedroom, nursery).

Exhaust ventilation: features of basement air exchange

Exhaust ventilation is relevant where a large amount of moisture and odors are formed. These are household premises (kitchen, bathroom, toilet), as well as an underground, cellar, basement. It is important here to draw out moisture, and not to put a new portion of fresh air inside.

Exhaust ventilation can be natural or forced. The forced option works more efficiently than the natural one, therefore, it is often the forced exhaust system that is used to equip the cellar and basements.

It is important to know: for effective air exchange, it is necessary to have both an exhaust pipe and a supply pipe. If only one pipe (either supply or exhaust) is built in a room or house, then air exchange will be kept at a low level even with a powerful fan.

What devices does the ventilation of a private house use with their own hands

What devices can be used to organize the ventilation of your premises? Let's look at the most commonly used devices and describe their features:

• Fan with electric motor- it is installed in the forced air exchange scheme at the inlet (if it is supply ventilation) or at the outlet (if it is exhaust).
• check valves- devices that support the movement of air in only one direction. They help to limit the entry of odors through the common system into neighboring rooms. Valves are used in all types of ventilation schemes: supply, exhaust, natural and forced.
• Supply valves- devices that are built into the wall to connect the premises of the room with the street. They are a pipe with filters. The valve passes air, cleans it of dust and debris, and also does not let in cold (heat) and noise.
• Air handling units with heater- they heat the air supplied from the street, while increasing the consumption of electricity.
• Supply / exhaust devices with recuperators - when the air moves, they keep the temperature inside the room (in winter - warm, in summer - cool).
• Air handling units with heat pumps- combines ventilation with space heating. These are various ventilators, breathers. They have two working parts: a pipe for embedding into the wall and an overhead part (located on the inside of the wall, has a built-in heating device).

Do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house: device diagrams

A diagram is a drawing or drawing that shows the main elements of the system (pipes, valves, shafts), their location in the building. The ventilation scheme is developed when designing a house. For its implementation, special channels or pipes in the walls are provided, as well as a shaft or a common pipe to which these channels fit. It will be very difficult, and often impossible, to construct ventilation passages after the construction of the building. Therefore, it is necessary to think over the ventilation scheme during the design and implement it during construction.

Here are some options for schemes (for example). The basis is the plan of the premises of the house. It indicates the location of exhaust and supply devices, as well as their connection (if planned) to a common input / output system.

Here, in the diagrams, the places of the hood and the location of the exhaust pipes are marked in red. Blue color - these are the places of air intake from the street and its movement through pipes for supply to residential and household rooms. The dimensions of the exhaust and supply pipes, the dimensions of the grilles (on the inside of the valves or hoods), the name of the devices and installations are also indicated.

Summing up

1. The arrangement of ventilation has many advantages. It not only keeps the walls from getting wet and fungus, not only provides the owners of the house with clean air. The hood removes 80% of dust, reduces the amount of cleaning, improves the microclimate, reduces the frequency of colds and allergies.
2. For high-quality ventilation of rooms, forced ventilation is necessary. At the same time, it is important that both supply and exhaust passages and pipes are provided in the system.
3. To organize ventilation, modern devices are used that purify the air when it is supplied, and can also heat it up, or prevent it from losing heat (coolness - depending on the time of year).

When arranging basement ventilation in a private house, it is more efficient to choose an exhaust system.

You can see the process of arranging ventilation in the video.