Do-it-yourself cyclone (dust collector) in the workshop. Homemade construction cyclone vacuum cleaner How to make a dust collector from a vacuum cleaner

If large and relatively large pieces of construction debris are well transferred from the floor into bags, then construction dust is the scourge of repair.

We turn our attention to the offers on the market of vacuum cleaners: from 6000 r.

Hmm, since it is not yet known if there will be more orders for repairs after this is completed, then the investment in a vacuum cleaner may not pay off. We shift our gaze to homemade products. Google. The principle of the cyclone filter has been known for a long time, we are studying the best practices of its independent production. There are very good designs, but difficult to manufacture. All the same, you need a vacuum cleaner quickly, there is no time for a long fuss with it. But the general trend is clear: standard vacuum cleaner + car filter + barrel. In the bins there is a quite worthy copy of the vacuum cleaner (priceless) An air filter from a Gazelle is bought in auto parts (180 r) A barrel is taken in a building supermarket (I had to run around different ones to find a suitable one and at an unclouded price. 500 r.)

After buying the barrel, I understand that it is essentially square. Let there be rounded corners, but a classic cyclone may not work. Okay, I'll rely on the filter from the Gazelle.

You can start. The hole in the cover has already been drilled, the nozzles of the required diameters have also been found.

First I figure out how to attach the filter to the lid. A very successful hole in it encourages the idea to use it. Firstly, a quick-release mount, and secondly, it still had to be closed with something. I cut out petals from tin (here Mercedes should fork off some money for advertising)

And I make such a central screed.

The filter is on.

First layout example.

A piece of pipe tangentially and slightly down. We see such a clean barrel for the last time.

Cover for the filter. The shape repeats the expected flow of sandblasting (by the way, the topic, we should hang some detail here, see if it will be sanded) It is necessary so that the dust does not immediately crash into the filter.

Guess what's on the filter?

Pioneers advise to put a woman's stocking on the filter to prevent large pieces of dirt from clogging the filter. The filter diameter is really big. Barely pulled, tore. In short, it works out its only partially.

The first test launches showed that the barrel is not rigid enough, the suction force is greater and therefore the barrel is distorted, especially when the mud flow is dense. You need to strengthen the sides.

I thought about it, realized that embedding the shell inside is difficult and will worsen the already not ideal aerodynamics inside. Therefore, I make a shell on the outside. 25 mm strip bent on my bending machine. Consists of two halves - for ease of installation. Fastened from the inside with screws with large washers.

There was less shrinkage.

4 swivel wheels are attached to the frame (they were lying around in the country).

And the final marriage of components.

Cunning quick-detachable system of fastening of a barrel on ropes. This is the best thing that came to mind.

And of course the ship product needs a name. As you call it, so it will float.

My DIY construction vacuum cleaner is called Veterok-M.

Handsome!

And it works like a beast. Already working hard at the facility.

The cost of the product is 680 r + several working hours. If there is no vacuum cleaner lying around, then the budget will increase by 1000 r (this is how lucky you are with buying a used one). But in any case, it is much better (by an order of magnitude) than ready-made vacuum cleaners for sale. Another blow to global corporations in the gut!

About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English, "HEPA" translates as High Efficiency Particulate Air "- a filter for airborne particles.

Agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment as a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.

Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they are also different: rechargeable, washing, pneumatic. As well as automotive, low-voltage industrial, knapsack, gasoline, etc.

The principle of operation of a cyclone vacuum cleaner

James Dyson was the first inventor of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.

A little later in the 1990s, he applied for the manufacture of cyclone apparatus and already assembled his center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the "Dayson DC01", went on sale.
So after all, how does this miracle of a cyclone type work?

It looks like the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in dust collection.

The device is two-chamber and it is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that swirls inside the dust collector moves upward as if in a spiral.

By law, large dust particles enter the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. This is how vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter work.

Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features

Do not opt ​​for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like such cleaning and most likely want to throw away such a device.

Do not waste money in vain, but approach the purchase of a vacuum cleaner more seriously. One has only to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with the choice of one or another vacuum cleaner.

The device should be chosen, which is 20-30% more powerful than a bag vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 watts. Almost all manufacturers of vacuum cleaners produce models with this filter, which is good news.

Advantages of cyclone dust collectors

1.Skazhdym, probably, it happened when you accidentally found the item you needed in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice the items that you need to get out of there as soon as possible.

This is one of the most important pluses.

2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not slow down the speed and power, even with a clogged container. Cleaning is much more pleasant, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.

Such a vacuum cleaner is capable of detaining much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.

3. Buying a cyclonic vacuum cleaner, you not only make a bargain, but also save space to store it, as its weight is quite light. You don't have to carry heavy things.

4. No need to constantly change paper bags for vacuum cleaner.

5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.

6. It can be washed well with water and dried.

Cons of cyclone dust collectors

1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you don’t have to clean the container every day with a brush, but still, this is one of the minuses. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, it is certainly unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.

2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a conventional one.

3. Power consumption. It is also much higher than from a conventional vacuum cleaner. This is a small tornado.

Buy this little miracle or not, it's up to you. In fact, all its advantages cover those not many of its shortcomings. Cleanliness in the house is much more pleasant than not fully completed tidy, agree?

Personal impressions

Compared to the old vacuum cleaner, the cyclone dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little one is capable of something serious. Now the old vacuum cleaner can only be used for wet cleaning.

I take out accessories, at the first use, I insert a pipe that is not large in diameter, I turn on the device, and what really surprises me is that the brush cleans carpets much better than my previous assistant.

He cleans everything. Dirt, the hair of our pets. Previously, it was necessary to make no small effort to cope with such “little things now”.

I have laminate flooring in the hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, harder than the previous one for carpets, so I just coped with this task. You know, and the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet.

I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary nozzles, it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.

Once I knew what this little tornado was capable of, it was time to clean the container. Thank God, when I began to shake out the garbage from the dust collector, it fell in dense large lumps.

Since the debris was tamped down by the air flow. There are no balls of dust to be seen, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclone vacuum cleaner. I washed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!

Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo

All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. This applies to all vacuum cleaners.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners are usually used on machine tools or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are expensive, since the principle of operation of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that most often industrial devices are used during repair and construction. Keep your work area clean.

DIY cyclone, made of transparent plastic video

Construction work is carried out after its preparation and surface cleaning. As you understand, General cleaning cannot be done with a conventional vacuum cleaner. In other words, it is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris, such as: sand, oil, dry mixes, powdered abrasives and wood shavings, is designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Have you thought about using a vacuum cleaner in repair conditions? Then consider the option of a do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner. There are many examples of how to make this kind of vacuum cleaner.

Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner

1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner on your own, you will need a Ural PN-600 vacuum cleaner, a plastic bucket (even out of paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes must be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets with a grinder and remove the pipe fasteners. Before that, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole with a drill in the middle. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. Gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm are cut out to seal it.
6. Then you need to fold everything, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws will need 20 pieces.
8. From the side of the bucket, cut a hole along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut through metal.
10. Do not forget that you also need to try on inside. Also leave strips for self-tapping screws from the inside.
11. With a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and cut off the excess material with scissors. Fasten the pipe from the outside to the bucket.
12. To seal everything, use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like "titanium" for foam. Wrap the bandage around the nozzle and saturate with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue dries, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it by blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the sealing process and connection with the nozzle are improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. Vacuum cleaner is best stored in a case.

Wood has always been considered an environmentally friendly and safe material. Fine wood dust generated during the processing of a wooden blank is not as harmless as it might seem. Its inhalation does not contribute to the saturation of the body with useful microelements. Accumulating in the lungs and upper respiratory tract (and wood dust is not processed by the body), it slowly but effectively destroys the respiratory system. Large chips constantly accumulate near machines and working tools. It is better to remove it immediately, without waiting for the appearance of insurmountable blockages in the carpentry space.

In order to maintain the necessary level of cleanliness in the home carpentry, you can buy an expensive exhaust system, consisting of a powerful fan, cyclone, chip traps, a chip container and auxiliary elements. But the users of our portal are not one of those who are used to buying what they can do with their own hands. Using their experience, anyone can assemble an exhaust system that will meet the needs of a small home workshop.

Sawdust vacuum cleaner

Chip blower using a conventional household vacuum cleaner is the most budget option of all existing solutions. And if you manage to use your old cleaning assistant, who, out of pity, has not yet been thrown into the trash, then your inherent thrift has once again served you in good stead.

ADKXXI FORUMHOUSE User

My vacuum cleaner is more than fifty years old (brand - "Uralets"). Completely copes with the role of a chip cutter. He is heavy only, like my sins, but he can not only suck, but also blow. Sometimes I take advantage of this opportunity.

By itself, a household vacuum cleaner installed in a place of honor in the workshop as a chip blower will be useless. And the main reason for this is that the volume of the bag (container) for collecting dust is too small. That is why between the vacuum cleaner and the machine there must be an additional unit of the exhaust system, consisting of a cyclone and a volumetric tank for collecting sawdust.

axis FORUMHOUSE User

The easiest installation–vacuum cleaner and cyclone. Moreover, the vacuum cleaner can be used at home. Instead of a cyclone (cylindrical cone), a separating cover can be used.

DIY sawdust vacuum cleaner

The scheme of the chip blower we are considering is extremely simple.

The device consists of two main modules: a cyclone (pos. 1) and a chip container (pos. 2). The principle of its operation is as follows: with the help of a vacuum cleaner, a vacuum is created in the cyclone chamber. Due to the pressure difference inside and outside the device, sawdust, together with air and dust, enters the internal cavity of the cyclone. Here, under the action of inertial and gravity forces, mechanical suspensions are separated from the air flow and fall into the lower container.

Consider the design of the device in more detail.

Cyclone

The cyclone can be made in the form of a cover that is installed on top of the storage tank, or you can simply combine these two modules. To begin with, consider the second option - a cyclone made in the body of the chip container.

First of all, we should purchase a tank with a suitable volume.

ForceUser FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

Capacity - 65 l. I took it according to the principle - we need volume and convenience while carrying a filled container. This barrel has handles, which is very convenient for cleaning it.

Here is a list of additional items and materials that we will need to assemble the device:

• Screws, washers and nuts - for fastening the inlet pipe;
• Segment of a sewer pipe with cuffs;
• Transitional coupling (from the sewer pipe to the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner);
• Glue gun.

Do-it-yourself barrel vacuum cleaner: assembly sequence

First of all, a hole is made in the sidewall of the tank for the inlet pipe, which will be located tangentially to the body. The figure shows a view from the outside of the tank.

It is advisable to install the branch pipe in the upper part of the plastic barrel. This will achieve the maximum degree of cleaning.

From the inside, the inlet pipe looks like this.

The gaps between the pipe and the walls of the tank should be filled with mounting sealant.

At the next stage, we make a hole in the lid, insert the adapter there and carefully seal all the cracks around the pipe. Ultimately, the design of the chip blower will look like this.

The vacuum cleaner is connected to the upper outlet of the device, and the pipe that removes the chips from the machine is threaded into the side pipe.

As you can see, the presented design is not equipped with additional filters, which does not greatly affect the quality of air purification.

day_61 FORUMHOUSE User

I made a chip blower based on the theme. The vacuum cleaner "Rocket" with a power of 400 W and a barrel with a volume of 100 liters are taken as a basis. After assembly of the unit, tests were successfully carried out. Everything works as it should: the sawdust is in the barrel, the vacuum cleaner bag is empty. So far, the dust collector has been connected only to the router.

Whatever it was, but the cyclone still cannot detain a certain percentage of wood dust. And in order to bring the degree of purification to the maximum, some users of our portal are thinking about the need to install an additional fine filter. Yes, a filter is needed, but not every filter element will be appropriate.

axis FORUMHOUSE User

I think that it is not entirely correct to install a fine filter after a cyclone. Or rather, you need to install it, but you are tormented by cleaning it (you will have to very often). There, just a filter cloth will roll (like a bag in a vacuum cleaner). In my Corvette, the top bag holds the bulk of the fine dust. I see this when I remove the bottom bag to remove sawdust.

A fabric filter can be created by attaching a frame to the top cover of the cyclone and covering it with a dense material (can be a tarpaulin).

The main task of the cyclone is to remove sawdust and dust from the working area (from the machine, etc.). Therefore, the quality of air flow cleaning from fine suspensions plays a secondary role in our case. And, given that the standard dust collector installed in the vacuum cleaner will certainly retain the remaining debris (not filtered by the cyclone), we will achieve the required degree of cleaning.

Cyclone cover

As we have already said, the cyclone can be made in the form of a cover that will be put on the storage tank. A working example of such a device is shown in the photo.

The point of the log FORUMHOUSE User

The design should be clear from the photographs. The plastic was soldered with an ordinary soldering iron using a fine steel mesh. The cyclone is quite effective: when filling a barrel of 40 liters, no more than a glass of garbage accumulated in the vacuum cleaner bag.

Despite the fact that this cyclone is part of a home-made construction vacuum cleaner, it can be successfully introduced into the design of a carpentry chip blower.

sawdust pipeline

Hoses connected to a chip extractor are best purchased from a vacuum cleaner. A plastic pipeline with smooth inner walls can be laid along the wall. It will connect the machine to the suction pipe of the cyclone.

A certain danger is static electricity, which is generated during the movement of sawdust through a plastic pipe: sticking of sawdust to the walls of the pipeline, ignition of wood dust, etc. If you want to neutralize this phenomenon, it is better to do this during the construction of the sawdust pipeline.

Far from all owners of home workshops pay attention to the phenomenon of static electricity inside the sawdust pipeline. But if the design of the chip blower is made in accordance with the rules of fire safety, then a corrugation with a built-in metal conductor should be used as a sawdust duct. Connecting such a system to a ground loop will help avoid problems during operation.

alex_k11 FORUMHOUSE User

Plastic pipes must be grounded. Hoses should be taken with a wire, otherwise static accumulates very strongly.

And here is a solution for dealing with static electricity in plastic pipes offered by one of the FORUMHOUSE users: wrap a plastic pipe with foil and connect it to a ground loop.

Exhaust devices

The design of devices that remove chips directly from the working bodies of carpentry equipment depends on the characteristics of the machines themselves. Therefore, products made of plastic, plywood and other suitable materials can be used as exhaust elements.

In order to solve this problem, the body of the tank can be equipped with a metal frame, or several metal hoops of a suitable diameter can be inserted inside (as suggested by the user alex_k11). The design will turn out to be more cumbersome, but absolutely reliable.

Chip blower for multiple machines

The system based on a household vacuum cleaner has a small capacity. Therefore, it can only serve one machine at a time. In other words, if there are several machines, the suction pipe will have to be connected to them one by one. It is also possible to install a chip blower centrally. But in order for the suction power not to fall, idle machines should be disconnected from the general system using gates (flaps).

Article about how I did homemade construction vacuum cleaner with cyclone filter. The performance of this useful crafts for home can be appreciated by watching the video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is, so to speak, a working prototype layout).

I will say right away: this article is a presentation of my history of creating my first (and I think not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove and claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and infallible ones. Therefore, I ask you to treat with understanding, so to speak, "understand and forgive." I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, to whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I somehow thought about the upcoming repair and the consequences arising from this in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to ditch, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them still include a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter that clogs, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. Yes, and just this topic interested, and appeared, so to speak, "purely sporting interest." In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not make special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, on the ad site (for 1100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence, I came across such a vacuum cleaner. I looked at the parameters, they seem to be satisfied - it will be a donor!

The body of the cyclone itself was decided to be made of metal, because there were strong doubts about how long they would last, for example, plastic walls under the influence of “sandpaper” from a jet of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that the buildup of dust due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

Polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower container-garbage collector. The rest goes through the car's air filter, the engine, and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a branch pipe for the outlet, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something. You can also use an additional hose to make the “exhaust” air exit to the street so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​​​attaching this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, retract with the other).

The air filter is chosen “flat” not annular, so that when it is turned off, the debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon, as in a conventional construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, at the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles), it is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. It is also possible to partially clean such a filter with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner by attaching it to the “cyclone” inlet pipe. In this case, the garbage from the garbage bin will not be sucked in. The filter mount is made collapsible to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the body of the cyclone, a suitable tin was very useful, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with the expectation of a 50 mm plastic sewer pipe into which, with an appropriate rubber coupling, the hose in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to "straighten" the flow. Its width was chosen for the smallest hose inlet diameter (32mm) to avoid clogging. Approximate calculation: L \u003d (3.14 * 50 mm - 2 * 32) / 2 \u003d 46.5 mm. Those. branch pipe section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure on soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (I worked with tin for almost the first time, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

Soldered the center pipe. The cone was made according to a pre-fitted cardboard template-scan.

The housing for the autofilter is also made according to galvanized patterns.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent in the shape of a square and the lower opening of the body (pyramid) of the autofilter was fitted under it. Gathered everything together. On the sides of the can of the cyclone, I made three guides to increase rigidity and fastening. It turned out here is such a "gravitsapa".

For the garbage collector and the engine compartment, I used 2 barrels of engine oil (60 liters). Too big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. At the bottom of the engine compartment, I made holes for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber on the surface of the garbage bin to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The cyclone-“gravitap” was fastened with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent loosening from vibration. Hereinafter, all the places where tightness is necessary, articulated with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto-sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage collector, I used latches from military wooden boxes (special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “correct” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure with mounting foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe, suddenly there will be a need to disassemble it. In addition, everything turned out pretty hard and strong.

For the convenience of moving and carrying the garbage collector, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the garbage container has a flanging at the bottom, it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a 10 mm thick plastic sheet to install the wheels. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture "Euro screws". To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto the epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted. I glued sponge rubber around the perimeter of the filter installation site.

When assembling, I smeared the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and pulled it to the base with flat-head screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I chose a recess of 7 mm in the area with a milling cutter.

To collect the outgoing air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment available in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything superfluous” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto the epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together on a sealant and with the help of a metal profile (thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is attracted to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot glue for tightness. Nuts with PTFE to prevent loosening due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For ease of access to the autofilter, it is attached with eight wing nuts. Enlarged washers are glued (Schaub did not run away).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after cleaning it with sandpaper and degreasing it.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), supplementing it with a self-made circuit for automatically starting the vacuum cleaner when the power tool is turned on.

Explanations on the scheme of a homemade vacuum cleaner:

Circuit breakers (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner motor. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through the diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They are selected from the reference book because of the large voltage drop across them with direct current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let's call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created, which charges the capacitor C1 through the fuse FU1, the Schottky diode VD1 and the resistor R2. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 volts) protect the control circuit from damage during overvoltage, which can occur, for example, during a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of the capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charge current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens the DA1 optocoupler, the thyristor of which is included in the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for controlling the motor speed is selected with the same rating as in the controller board of the vacuum cleaner (it is removed) and made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) to be placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The on / off switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 serves to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 "automatic / manual". In manual control mode, S1 is on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) -pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool due to the large capacitance of the capacitor C1 and the inertia of the engine, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate the variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 are selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are located on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and glued with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated cases for the boards in order to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3 * 2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Given the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable section is sufficient so as not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and coarser, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to abandon the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tools.

The top cover is fixed with a stud and a wing nut.

For easy removal of the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit through a connector. The body of the motor and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective earth conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, I pasted over the upper edge with a rubber door seal cut along.

And so that the garbage bag is not sucked into the cyclone due to air suction through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The completion and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place already at the beginning of the repair, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The thrust, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for a couple of minutes of working with construction debris. Relatively heavy debris from concrete is almost completely deposited in the bin and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the bin. Putty dust (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is filtered out worse by the cyclone, which makes it necessary to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting apparatus eventually turned out to be functional and has already passed the test during the repair of one room. Now I consider it more like a working layout from the series “will it work or not for the sake of interest”.

The main disadvantages of this design:

- relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room on wheels very easily. You can use barrels of liters of 30 for example. As the operation has shown, such a large garbage bin is inconvenient for cleaning, and a bag with a lot of garbage can break.

- the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, up to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question arises of a price of 2000 rubles). Although, even with the existing hose, the garbage is collected quite cheerfully, unless of course you try to draw in half of the brick.

- it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for an additional autofilter and engine, for more convenient and efficient maintenance and cleaning.

- a thermal relay can be included in the control circuit (only determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this "pepelats". And special thanks to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.

A home vacuum cleaner is so familiar to the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, the only possible way to separate dust from clean air has been used - a filter.

Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag of dense tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that hold the smallest particles of debris. At the same time, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.

Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.

He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. Needless to say, this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal scorch and chip accumulators of the "cyclone" type for a long time.

But no one guessed to apply this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclone type vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.

In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:

1. filter membrane. The most massive and cheapest way to remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
2. Water filter. Air with garbage passes through a container with water (as in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air stream enters the outlet. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to the high cost.
3. Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the "cyclone" type. It is a compromise in terms of cost and quality of cleaning in comparison with a membrane and a water filter. Let's take a closer look at this model.

The principle of operation of the cyclone

The illustration shows the processes taking place in the cyclone filter chamber.

Polluted air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The branch pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) is twisted into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.

Under the action of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity, they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest debris particles (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After the final cleaning, they exit to the intake fan (7).

The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All the dirt is simply poured out of the drive, and the vacuum cleaner is ready to work again.

Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive than membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a cyclone-type filter with their own hands, and connect it to the entrance to a conventional vacuum cleaner.