What devices are there for laying bricks? Brick laying device

Masonry is a complex and responsible job, without which the construction or major renovation of a house is rarely complete. The main difficulty lies in the need to accurately observe axial and interelement distances, which ultimately affects not only the appearance of the masonry, but also its performance characteristics.

Therefore, both amateurs and professional masons are increasingly making Brick laying equipment. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, especially if you have a good theoretical basis.

Standard masonry tools

Bricklaying requires some experience, constant concentration, and, importantly, a lot of time related to auxiliary control and measurement work.

The use of special devices helps to facilitate the process. They can be purchased at construction stores, but this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, it does not allow taking into account individual characteristics associated with the actual parameters of the brick and the structures created from it.

Read our article about the standard size of red brick.

All equipment used for manual masonry can be divided into three large groups: basic hand tools, control equipment and mechanized devices. The first group is fundamental. It includes:

Trowel (trowel).

This is a small flat spatula with a handle to hold it that is used for applying the binder solution onto the surface and distribution over it, as well as trimming and removing excess solution.

Depending on the shape, trowels are divided into type KB (triangular), type KP (triangular with rounded corners at the base and a sharp top), and specialized, for example, trapezoidal or triangular with completely rounded corners.

Joining.

It looks like a long narrow groove attached to the handle and serves for forming seams, control of their thickness, removal of residual excess solution. There are convex and concave joints. An important parameter that determines the performance characteristics of the tool is the groove profile.

Correct hammer (pick).
Performs two main functions: block trimming to give them the required size and shape, as well as to correct minor installation inaccuracies on uncured or semi-cured mortar without removing the brick, that is, by light tapping.

The tool has two working surfaces: a wide one, with a cross-section in the shape of a square or circle, and a narrow one - a pick.

Testing equipment is required to ensure maximum masonry accuracy and includes the following main varieties:

Building level.

A linear instrument in the body of which transparent ampoules are fixed, partially filled with liquid. When the level is located on the controlled surface, the liquid, under the influence of gravity, occupies a certain position in the ampoule, squeezing the air bubble into a position relative to the control lines, which allows one to roughly determine the slope angle.

Construction levels are classified according to the length, number and location of ampoules.

Plumb.

It is a conical or bullet-shaped weight attached to an inelastic thread. It allows you to control the verticality of structures by relative displacement from the point of fixation of the thread in the horizontal plane.

Plumb lines are classified by weight: weights from 200 to 400 grams are used at heights up to 3 meters, from 600 to 1000 grams– for measurements at a height of several floors.

Templates, rules – slats, squares and other products whose purpose is form compliance control(flatness, angles, roundings, etc.) to nominal values by comparison with the template.
Mooring (control cord)- a dense inelastic thread that is stretched along the rows of masonry and is used as a guide - an indicator of linearity.
Order.

Essentially, a large ruler, with the price of divisions corresponding to the nominal width of the row. For classic brick masonry with a thickness of 65 mm, the CD of the order is equal to 77 mm, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

The orders may or may not be fixed on the masonry. Devices that allow for fixed installation in corners usually have holes for securing moorings.

Mechanized devices.

Don't confuse them with automated– this type of tool does not provide any drive elements or complex systems.

Its name only says about the ability to reduce the share of manual installation and control work by applying the following mechanisms:

Industrial mason kits

There are many ready-made mason kits available on the modern market, including all three main groups of tools. Domestic kits are most widespread "Brick" and their foreign analogues "Bricky". These sets include:

cuvette for applying the solution;
template for laying single bricks;
template for one and a half;
control corner;
order;
mooring;
trowel.

Manufacturers position the product as amateur, that is, not requiring special construction skills. It is simple and intuitive to use, allowing you to get good results in the shortest possible time.

Most kits come with, among other things, not only paper instructions, but also video tutorial, which describes in detail the use of each tool.

What is included in the beginner mason's kit - watch the video:

A device you can make with your own hands (video)

How to make super gadget for laying bricks yourself, find out from the video:

Homemade masonry equipment involves the use of wooden beams and slats, plywood or chipboard, steel or aluminum profiles. The choice of material must be carried out taking into account the skills in its processing.

So, the structure can be assembled with bolts or screws literally in one evening, but it will most likely fail quite quickly. An aluminum profile can be fastened with rivets or bolts, but a steel profile will be more securely welded.

In addition, a durable plastic container of the required width can serve as a good raw material - its alteration will come down to removing part of the bottom and attaching stops.

Regardless of the material, structural units devices will be:

A frame, the internal width of which must correspond to the width of the brick and fit snugly around its entire perimeter. The frame consists of longitudinal and transverse beams, which are rigid or sliding.
Sides - limit the width and height if the frame beams are insufficiently thick or it is necessary to place additional elements.
Stops - are attached to the frame and serve to fix the structure on the bottom row of bricks or side surfaces.
Control, measuring and auxiliary elements are optional components that simplify the work with the device.

Making a device for laying bricks with your own hands will not require large financial investments, and will also allow take into account all individual nuances, which distinguishes it favorably from similar industrially produced goods.

Specifics of working with facing bricks

The main function of facing bricks is; it shapes the appearance of surfaces, gives them stylistic completeness, a more harmonious and aesthetic appearance.

However, there is also the other side of the coin - due to the specific shape and texture, as well as the need to strictly adhere to geometric parameters, laying facing bricks creates additional difficulties compared to conventional brickwork. These include:

the unsuitability of rough hand tools for working with some decorative surfaces;
special requirements for the quality of control, measurement and adjustment work;
often - changing the composition of the solution, using tinting and binding agents;
specific technologies for working with narrow and thick types of facing bricks;
difficulty of figured masonry.

Here the use of mechanized devices will be more relevant than ever.

However, the general design described in the previous section should be modified to take into account the thickness and shape of the cladding blocks.

For figured masonry a special, highly specialized class of devices is distinguished, the design of which is developed separately for each specific case and often includes hinge joints, stepper mechanisms and other complex components.

Manual bricklaying is a responsible operation, without which the construction of a house or its major renovation is indispensable. Outwardly simple work requires constant checking of the distances between axes and individual elements, control of angles, and compliance with vertical and horizontal levels. For this purpose, as well as for the rapid construction of walls, masons use various devices. Some of them are easier and cheaper to buy in a store, but there are models that are easy to assemble yourself using a sketch or drawing.

The tools are conventionally divided into three categories: basic technological, control and measuring, mechanized.

The main group includes manual ones; they can be bought at any hardware store:

Trowel. This is a flat spatula with a handle, colloquially called a trowel. With its help, the mortar is applied to the plane of the bricks, distributed, and the excess is removed. Trowels are triangular (marked KB), in the shape of a triangle with a sharp apex and rounded corners at the base (code KP). A specialized tool can be completely rounded or trapezoidal.
Bucket-shovel. It is usually used to stir the mixture. The second purpose is to lay the composition with a large row width.
Joining. A narrow groove fixed on the handle is designed to create seams, maintain their uniform thickness, and finally remove excess mortar. They can be convex or concave, differ in size and profile shape.
Kirochka. This is a special hammer, the toe of which is flattened in the shape of a pick. Necessary for trimming bricks in order to correct their shape and size. As long as the mobility of the mixture allows, the blocks can be slightly shifted by tapping.

Control and measuring devices help maintain accuracy without losing the speed of construction work. Prices for purchased models depend on the size and complexity of the design.

1. Plumb. The simplest device, based on the law of universal gravitation. A conical or spherical weight attached to a rigid thread, under the influence of gravity, pulls the cord strictly vertically. The deviation of brick surfaces from the resulting line should be minimal. For a building height of up to 3 m, a plumb line with a load of 0.2-0.4 kg is suitable. If a house with several floors is being built, the weight should be 0.6-1.0 kg.

2. Level. It is placed on the transverse plane of the wall and checked to what extent it corresponds to the horizontal. It is a sealed housing with a non-freezing liquid in which an air bubble “floats”. If, when checking, it is located in the middle of the level, the masonry is done flawlessly.

3. Hydraulic level. It is used to determine the deviation of the corner axes from the vertical, as well as the horizontality of the seams along the entire contour of the structure. The device is a flexible tube filled with a clear liquid. If its level at opposite ends is the same, the controlled surface is horizontal.

4. Square. Allows you to check whether the corners of the building correspond to 90 degrees. For accurate measurements, one of the rulers of the square must be no shorter than 500 mm.

5. Rule. This smooth, flat, wide (usually aluminum) strip is used to check the evenness of the outer side of the facing walls.

6. Mooring. A dense, non-elastic cord stretched parallel to the rows and designed to control their linearity.

7. Order. It is a large ruler, the division step is equal to the thickness of the row, taking into account the solution. It can be attached to the structure or not fixed. There are usually holes through which the moorings are pulled.

Types of mechanized devices for bricklaying

Thanks to them, the proportion of manual assembly and control and measurement operations is reduced. The operation does not require any drive, and there is no complex control circuit.

Solution dispenser (cuvette). This is a regular rectangular container without a bottom with inclined or straight walls and side stops. A single portion of the composition is laid, it is formed in length and width.
Dosing order. It is a modification of the cuvette, supplemented with marking devices. In more complex models, the length is adjustable, and there may be screw support mechanisms for fastening to the bottom row of bricks.
Multifunctional dispenser. The kit, along with the container, includes a level and other instrumentation. It is complemented by elements that allow you to give the seams a figured relief, fix and align the mesh.

Self-production

When doing masonry with your own hands, you can make several simple devices at home by downloading drawings from the Internet and adjusting their parameters to the required values. This approach will allow us to take into account the characteristics of a particular building or technological operation. The price of homemade structures is low due to the fact that most of the units are made from scrap materials using a universal tool. The main thing in manufacturing is to maintain the dimensions, parallelism and alignment of the surfaces.

1. Template for brick.

During the construction of a wall, the thickness and uniformity of the mixture layer are of great importance. If there is a lack of it, the blocks simply do not hold together, and the excess has to be constantly removed to give a neat appearance. If the layer is unequal in thickness, the rows turn out crooked. A special dispenser template allows you to prevent such flaws and speed up work. It is a box without a bottom with a guide frame. The height of the solution layer and horizontality are helped to maintain the side and bottom limit stops, while the dispenser template combines the functions of a building level and a cord.

The quick-laying device is installed on the laid row of bricks so that the stops are firmly held on their edges. The solution is directed into an oblong hole with a ladle, trowel or shovel and leveled. After filling the free space, the template is moved further.

To make a dispenser, you will need plywood, metal or plastic, steel corners, and threaded fasteners. The work is carried out using universal tools: drill, hammer, screwdriver, screwdriver. To mark, take a ruler, pencil, or building level.

The principle of assembling the main components of the template:

Box If you can’t find a suitable plastic container, you can purchase or take a used sheet of plywood 16-24 mm thick and put together a box. It should be slightly wider than a brick wall.
The frame is made of wooden blocks or steel corners. The distance between the side stops must correspond to the thickness of the wall.
It is better to make crossbars that control the level from strip steel. Control is provided by grooves milled into the strips. It is advisable to maintain the height of the grooves at 10 mm - this is the thickness of the seam if the masonry is carried out in 1-1.5 bricks.
Control and measuring units - they simplify interaction with the device.

The design should include handles: with their help it is easier to move the dispenser template. If the structure is wooden, it is advisable to cover its working surfaces with parquet varnish to extend its service life. For a load-bearing wall you will need a dispenser that matches its thickness. If cladding is intended, it is controlled with another template.

2. Order.

This is a device for evenly laying rows vertically, controlling horizontal seams and corners of the building. The main structural element is a steel angle, pipe or wooden strip with marked divisions. The pitch is selected according to the total height of the building stone along with the mortar. A mooring cord is attached to the notches, allowing you to check how the plane of the seam corresponds to the horizontal.

As a rack, it is better to use a standard metal corner with a shelf width of 40-60 mm and a length of 1.5-2 m.
Each shelf is marked, maintaining the following interval between notches: if the brick is single - 77 mm (stone height 65 mm + joint thickness 12); if thickened (88) - 100 mm.
Holes with a diameter of 4-8 mm are drilled according to the markings.
Stops are attached to the bottom of the rack, which secure the device to the side walls.

The order is set according to plumb line and building level.

3. Mopping.

Designed to remove excess solution in chimneys and ventilation ducts. You will need a square rubber plate with a metal handle (length from 1 to 2 m). A rubber scraper not only cleans walls: it is used to fill gaps between bricks and smooth the surface.

Cost of purchased devices

For large volumes of masonry, it is more advisable to purchase the required device in a retail chain, studying prices from different suppliers. The table shows the average cost in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Brick has been and remains one of the main building materials. Master masons acquire the skill of high-quality masonry over the years. But this does not mean that it is impossible to lay out a smooth and beautiful wall without appropriate training.

Special devices for bricklaying greatly facilitate the work of non-professionals (and professionals, in general, too). Such frames are available for sale in various versions. But you can make them yourself, using a minimum amount of materials, tools and time.

The mason's toolkit is quite diverse, but consists of fairly simple devices. All of them are divided into several groups:

Hand (trowels, hammers, etc.).
Control and measuring (plumb, level, mooring).
Mechanized (various types of solution dispensers).

Some of them are easy to make yourself, others will have to be purchased. It all depends on your needs and capabilities.

In private construction, there is not always a need to purchase professional tools. In most cases, you can get by with well-thought-out homemade products that will better meet the requirements of a particular type of work.

Basic hand tools of a mason

For any job there is a minimum required set of tools. Sets like “Your own mason” usually include a trowel, a hammer with a pick, and a jointer. It makes sense to purchase or manufacture additional devices if specific needs or a desire to experiment arise during the work process. What does a basic mason's kit consist of?

Trowel

The tool is a symbol of construction. The definition states that it is “a flat paddle for laying mortar on a plane.” In general, this is true, but with its help you can also remove excess mixture from the seams, chip off dried sagging and perform a lot of other actions.

According to the accepted classification, masons' trowels are considered to be trapezoidal blades with rounded tops. Plasterers use a tool with a sharp top and rounded corners at the base.

When the row width of the material being laid is large, a special shovel-bucket is used. It also serves to mix the solution.

Nothing prevents you from using a trowel for finishing work when laying bricks, but the shape of the tools was not chosen by chance and it is still more convenient to work with a mason’s trowel.

Trowels for masons are marked with the abbreviation K-B, and tools for plasterers - K-P.

There are other types of trowels:

External and internal angular (halves of the working blade are located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other).
Finishing, with a working part in the form of a clear trapezoid without rounded corners.
Tiled, the blade of which has the configuration of an isosceles triangle with beveled apexes.

Correct hammer

The second most important tool for a mason is a hammer and pick. The butt of such a hammer is equipped with a flat blade, which is used for cutting bricks to the desired size. Special saws can also cope with this task, but using a pickaxe is cheaper and faster, although it requires skill.

The hammer or handle of the tool is also used to accurately position the brick on the yet-to-set mortar. Light tapping moves it in the required direction without violating the integrity of the prepared bed.

Joining

In fact, it is a long groove attached to the handle at a certain angle. The width of the working part corresponds to the width of the seam, and the profile corresponds to its configuration. It is used for finishing seams and, at the same time, controlling their thickness.

After ironing the incompletely set mortar, the seams acquire their final appearance. Depending on the jointing profile, they can be flat or have a negative or positive diameter.

Basic hand tools are a time when you shouldn't skimp. A trowel that bends with one awkward move, or a pick that breaks after the third brick, is not conducive to productivity.

Test equipment

Constant quality control of masonry work is the key to obtaining a smooth and durable wall. After all, not only the aesthetic appearance of the structure, but also its strength characteristics depend on the quality of the masonry. Therefore, a number of control and measuring instruments are used in the work process.

Building level

A linear building level is a structure similar to a rule. It contains ampoules with a special alcohol solution (so that it does not change its physical properties depending on temperature). The ampoules are not completely filled, and an air bubble moves into them.

Using a water level to control horizontal planes is less convenient and not as informative. In addition, linear levels cope with the task much faster.

When installed on a surface, under the influence of gravity and the difference in density of air and solution in the ampoule, the bubbles in the ampoules tend to occupy a certain position. Correspondence to the horizontal plane shows the location of the bubbles. When laying bricks, a level is used to check the longitudinal horizontalness of a row and the transverse horizontality of an individual block.

The use of a water level (a transparent polymer hose of small cross-section with flasks at the ends) is justified after finishing masonry work to check the horizontality of the structure. The length of the level allows you to compare the heights of points significantly removed from each other.

Plumb

Gravity is a universal measure of vertical planes. The tool is a metal sinker in the shape of a cone or bullet, equipped with a cord of the required length. It is important that the cord is not elastic, otherwise it will be difficult to control.

For measurements, the plumb line is attached with the free end of the cord above the controlled plane or edge, and then hangs freely. The thread will be strictly vertical and will show all deviations. The weight of the load used depends on the height of the controlled object. If it does not exceed 3 meters, then 400 grams, otherwise – 600 or more.

It is easy to make a plumb line yourself from a suitable dense cord and a bolt sharpened into a peak, the weight of which corresponds to the parameters mentioned above.

Mooring

A mooring is a cord stretched along the upper outer edges of the outermost blocks of a row. This device helps to maintain the linearity of the blocks in a row. It is a dense non-elastic cord attached to the outer blocks of the row.

The concept is so simple that it allows for hundreds of ways to implement it. In particular, a simple mooring for laying bricks with your own hands can be made from two planks, four nails and a cord. Or bend the desired structures in the form of hollow three-sided pyramids made of sheet material. Suitable options are also on sale.

Order template

The ordering is a ruler with a division value corresponding to the width or height of a row of blocks with a layer of mortar. They are vertical and horizontal, and can be equipped with mechanisms for fixation.

In its simplest form, the order is a manually marked plank attached to the wall being built using clamps. The accuracy of such a tool may be questionable, but having a reference point is better than not having one. In addition, holes are often placed in the corners of the rows for attaching moorings.

A square and a rule can be used as additional control and measuring devices.

Mechanized devices

There are a number of devices that significantly speed up the laying process. They are conventionally called mechanized, but are not equipped with drives and complex systems of moving parts. Most often they are used to quickly and evenly apply a mortar bed under the next row of blocks.

Order-dispenser

Such a tool is a frame made of plastic, metal or wood. It allows you to quickly apply a layer of solution of the required thickness and width. Thanks to special stops, it quickly moves along the row; excess solution can be placed on special shelves for later use.

Some models are equipped with mechanisms for adjusting the parameters of the resulting mortar layer, others are equipped with clamping devices for reliable fixation on the row.

As a rule, dispenser sets sold include end versions. They are much smaller and are used to dose the solution applied to the end of the block being laid. Depending on your preferences, you can apply the mortar to the end of the previously laid brick or to the next one to be laid before placing it on the “bed”.

Cuvette

This is the name of a rectangular vessel with inclined or straight walls. The cuvette has no bottom, and its volume is designed for one portion of the solution. After filling, the device simply moves along the plane, leaving behind a layer of laid mortar.

What can you do with your own hands?

As mentioned at the beginning, you can make a ton of bricklaying tools yourself. This does not require any special skills, tools or materials. You don't need anything more complicated than a threaded rod or a screwdriver.

Solution dispenser

The simplest dispenser arrangement is made of bars, strips and studs. For it you will need a 19x40 beam, an 11x20 strip, two threaded rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm, some starting nails and material for impregnating the wood.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Cut two pieces of timber 85 cm long and four 10 cm long.
Make two pieces of plank 85 cm each.
At a distance of 13 cm from each end of each block, nail 10 cm pieces on its wide side so that one of their ends is flush with the narrow edge of the block.
In the planks, select grooves along short sections of bars. The length by which the plane of the plank will protrude above the edge of the long bar is the depth of the future seam.
Nail the processed planks to the bars.
Drill holes in the center of the top of short sections of the block so that they are aligned on each half of the fixture.
Thread 25 cm long pieces of pins through the holes.
Secure on one side with nuts.
The other side should be equipped with rotary nuts to adjust the width of the layer being laid.

As a result, all that remains is to treat the device with some kind of waterproofing compound, and you can get to work.

You can make something like a cuvette from a plastic container of suitable width and length. To do this, just cut a rectangular hole in the bottom and provide it with stops.

Boards

Simple lengths of boards or other sheet material used to define a specified area of height or width of a work space. They are cut on site from materials that come to hand using saws, jigsaws and other suitable tools.

Stops

Sections of linear building materials with sufficient strength. Designed to fix the frame and prevent accidental displacement of the masonry in critical places, for example, in the area of the first rows.

Mopping

A tool used to clean the internal surfaces of constructed hollow cone-shaped structures from mortar residues. It is a metal plate that recommends the configuration of a cavity with a handle on a rod fixed in the center.

A variation of the tool with a thick rubber plate (or rubber edging) is used to fill internal seams with mortar.

Frame

A simple limiting device consisting of longitudinal plates and crossbars. The distance between the longitudinal limiting plates corresponds to the width of the block and is determined by the length of the crossbars. In its simplest form, it consists of sections of boards fastened with sections of bars.

If necessary, studs with limiting nuts are used together with the bars. This design allows you to adjust the width of the frame for use with different types of blocks: solid bricks, clinkers, aerated concrete blocks and others.

Thus, the devices for laying bricks and other blocks are quite diverse, but at the same time extremely simple. Most of them can be made independently at the work site. But some are better to buy, paying attention to quality. This is especially true for basic hand tools (trowel, straight hammer, jointers).

From the author: my greeting goes to each of you, my dear readers! I want to dedicate today’s article to the brilliant invention of mankind. This bricklaying tool doesn't have a scientific name, but it has already made life easier for thousands of builders who don't have the proper masonry experience.

Source: kirpichmaster.ru

If you are not a professional mason, and have decided to build some kind of building yourself, then this is just for you. Speaking honestly and frankly, I will say that with its help, anyone can make a perfectly straight wall. Naturally, if the situation is not as tragic as possible.

I first encountered this design about three years ago, when I was learning from my Spanish colleagues. According to them, they have had such gizmos in their arsenal for a long time and even began to improve them: add certain elements and adapt them to different types of bricks. A little later I will tell you how. Let's see what kind of fruit this is and what it is eaten with.

What is this “overseas miracle”

When I first saw this creation, I didn’t immediately understand that the piece of plastic was being pulled by two masons who were always shouting something. They rushed with him from one end of the construction site to another in the hope, apparently, of finding the missing part. It turned out to be the top container, which was intended for supplying cement mortar for further distribution over the surface of the masonry.

The structure was created with the goal of achieving the same joint width when laying bricks. The goal was fully achieved by creating a cavity between the upper part of the device and its legs. In standard samples, this space has a height of twelve millimeters and a width of ten centimeters. The length of the entire apparatus depends solely on the length of the wall and your skills in working with it.

At first, I recommend using samples that allow you to apply the solution to three stones at the same time. In the future, you can move on to larger ones. This part is intended to be applied from above. There is also a part that helps you apply the mortar to the side of the brick. The principle of its design is almost the same. The only difference is that you will have a gap of one and a half centimeters, which will then be filled when applying the top layer of the next row.

To be honest, this is one of the devices that every representative of this field could think of. However, all the laurels remained for one genius, who, most likely, did not patent his creation, because there are countless analogues and variations.

What materials is it made from?

No one limits you in choosing the material from which this device should be made. In the modern domestic market for construction tools, plastic options predominate. Which is quite logical, because they are much cheaper to manufacture, and in retail trade they allow you to earn a lot of money.

Imported samples are made of polyvinyl chloride, which makes them an order of magnitude stronger than plastic ones. It’s also worth thinking about expiration dates, because they will increase. Plus, Western European companies came up with the idea of equipping the device with a container for supplying the solution.

This way, you don't even have to pick up a trowel to remove the excess. If the wall you are building is more than ten meters long, then you will need to construct such a container yourself. This will make your life and work easier.

Homemade devices for this are already known on YouTube; they were made of wood. It is accessible and practical, which means it is intended for such work.

In fact, the main thing in the material from which this object is made is whether the solution will stick to it. Everything else is absolutely unimportant.

Source: kranik.ru

How to get a device

The first way is to buy it at a hardware store. To be honest, even while working in such an authority, I have never seen such devices. There were even special measuring cups for cement, but I have never seen anything like this. Therefore, be prepared to visit more than one hypermarket with the hope that you will achieve your desired goal.

The second option is to do it yourself. Having an idea of how to use an electric jigsaw, seeing the drawings and dimensions in front of you, you will easily create a unit that is convenient for you.

Adapt it to the characteristics of the stone you will use and set the desired length. Showing your imagination, you can fit the device to a brick, making one of the sides moving.

The third method I recommend is to order online. I'm rarely a fan of shopping on the World Wide Web, but I'll move away from my old-fashioned opinions now. In this case, the likelihood that you will buy a higher quality device than in the store is as high as possible.

Design flaws

Whatever one may say, everything has negative sides, and the wonders of technology are no exception. The main disadvantage of the device is that you need to get used to it. I agree that this is not the biggest task, but it will take a lot of time.

The second disadvantage that I identified for myself is that it still only allows you to spread the solution evenly. Now, if this device also placed bricks on top and nailed it down, there would be no price for it.

Source: kovrov33.ru

The last and most important drawback is the lack of precise operating instructions. All manufacturers can only provide you with the order of assembly of the item, but no one knows how to work with it correctly. Many experienced masons prescribe and explain the algorithm of work, but it is unique and does not adapt to each builder.

Area of application of the device

This device, unfortunately, is adapted only for external masonry. If you are faced with the task of posting, then you need it like a fish needs water. By using it, you will receive the following positive effects:

the mortar will lie evenly on each brick, without falling out in different directions. The seam will be the same everywhere, and its size will be equal to one centimeter;
It is the identical seams that make the appearance of the building facade attractive and aesthetically pleasing. Our device will help you achieve the desired result;
statistics show that when working with it, you will save about thirty percent of the entire solution, which went to God knows where. Apparently, according to the “experts,” it was stolen.

I'll tell you a short story that happened to me quite recently. Going online, I ordered such a contraption for myself and, as soon as it appeared at the delivery service, I rushed to pick it up. Having received my long-awaited purchase, the first thing I did was put it together, trying to understand how it all worked.

Since I didn’t have an order for laying facing bricks, I called a friend of mine who constructs multi-story buildings not far from my city in the countryside. My pride and desire to show off took their toll, and all I could manage to say was that my purchase would make him squeal with delight.

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