What to do if there is wet steam in the steam room. Optimum steam room temperature

Everyone knows that the bath is very good for health. In various types of baths and saunas (Finnish, Russian, Turkish, Roman, sports or other), a certain and individual level of humidity and temperature is maintained. In working steam rooms, high humidity in the bath is a necessity and a norm. However, steam and moisture are destructive to the structure, interior coatings and woodwork if the sauna room is not properly or insufficiently ventilated. When excess moisture is not removed from the room, from corners, places where air moves little, or it is noticeable that fungus and mold will soon appear on the walls - a clear sign of an unacceptable unhealthy microclimate in the bath. And one more nuance: if the bath is not used, its room must be dry, otherwise you will not even notice how the room has become a breeding ground for diseases and fungus.

The norms of the microclimate in the bath

In different types of baths, different ratios of air temperature and humidity levels are maintained, and it is important to know these norms in order to constantly maintain climate indicators. The healing effect, comfort and well-being of people in the bath depends on this. The beneficial effect of the bath is based on the deep heating of the body and the removal of toxins from the body. The presence of steam in the air improves its thermal conductivity and accelerates the heating of the skin and the body as a whole.

Microclimate standards for different types of baths

Russian bath - a steam bath with a humidity level of up to 60-65% and a temperature of 45 to 70 ° C, with a dressing room and a steam room.

Hot Russian bath - the temperature in the steam room can rise to 90 and above ° C, and the humidity can be maintained at a level of up to 35%.

The Turkish bath or hammam is similar to the Roman baths with ceramic decoration, it is distinguished by a mild microclimate, the highest content of steam in the air - humidity up to 90-100% with a temperature of up to 45 ° C. Usually this is a complex of rooms with different temperatures.

Finnish bath - a sauna with high air heating (up to 100 and above ° C) and not very high humidity - about 10%. Virtually no vapor in the air. It consists of a large dressing room for relaxation, a steam room and a shower room.

You can also name Japanese water baths, Roman baths are national baths and are rare in our country. There are also special sports saunas that maintain extreme humidity. They are designed for hardening athletes.

The above indicators must be maintained regularly and each type has its own. It is impossible to acquire, for example, a Finnish bath and not monitor the humidity level so that it reaches 40% - then this is no longer a Finnish bath, but a place unhealthy. Many people wonder how to control the moisture content in the air? Maintaining the temperature is not a problem, here is the humidity ...

For this, a special device has been created - an air dryer with a built-in hygrometer, and only he can help regulate the level of moisture. The hygrometer built into it will regularly measure moisture indicators and give a signal to the dehumidifier so that it either starts to dry the air or stops exposure when it reaches the goal. The humidity level you need is set in the settings as optimal, and then the device independently controls the environment you need. This process will help you keep your bath in good condition. You just need to understand that you can’t put a dehumidifier in the bath itself, because the conditions are not at all intended for technology! The dehumidifier is installed in the dressing room, near the exit from the steam room. You can read in more detail what an air dryer is.

Ventilation in the bath is an obligatory aspect of any bath, because it is the key to a healthy microclimate. Natural ventilation is arranged most often, but mechanical ventilation is necessary for the constant use of saunas or baths. But ventilation will not be able to fully optimize the level of humidity. The use of ventilation and a dehumidifier will be an ideal tandem for a healthy microclimate in your “steam room”.

Any bath or sauna is a gift to our health! But, if traces of exposure to high humidity appear in it, wooden shelves and walls swell and collapse, wiring and metal parts rust, the tile becomes moldy and falls off, and the smell of dampness cannot be eliminated - this is already a serious problem and must be resolutely dealt with. There can be no talk of health in such a bath. If you do not deal with dampness for a certain time, repairs will be required at a substantial cost.

What causes violations of the microclimate in the bath

Incorrect or inefficient ventilation in the bath can lead to stagnant zones, the accumulation of dampness, which makes it possible for mold and mildew to develop on the walls or on the wooden finish of the bath.
The unprofessional design of the bath, the lack of waterproofing or insulation of the foundation of the building lead to cooling of the floors, the appearance of condensation and constant dampness.
Mechanical ventilation did not work, vents were closed, there was no air circulation - dampness and the ensuing "unhealthy" consequences are guaranteed to appear.
The humidity level is not controlled during use and when the room is empty. It is important not only to monitor the level of moisture, but also to constantly influence the optimal performance. Without this, dampness will be a constant causative agent of problems.

How to remove dampness in the bath

1. Open all dampers and doors, ventilate all rooms of the bath after use until completely dry. But this can be long and inconvenient if the bath is used in the winter, and is suitable only if it is used from time to time.

2. Ventilation system. If there is forced ventilation, turn on the exhaust fan and ventilate the room to the desired level of the hygrometer reading. Check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts, remove debris and dust in places where fungus or mold can develop. Treat the channels with antiseptic agents.

Well ................., I feel not to stir up revelations, then I take the fire upon myself, listen and correct.

The beginning is completely banal, I flooded it and left to do business, the door in the steam room is closed and only it is heated, and I don’t pour any water on the walls, but I turn on the dropper (0.7 liters) as soon as the gun heats up to the desired temperatures, I pour wormwood into the flavor and I leave again. When the temperature in the steam room reaches 45 C, I open the door to the sink and the rest room. My opinion is that volley heating is more effective than gradual. For some time everything stays that way, the stove is heated, all rooms are heated, a dropper with flavoring gives just a crazy wormwood spirit . (For comparison, when pies are baked in the oven and opened for some reason, a hot wave of baked muffin arises, thick and exciting, about the same I experience when I enter the KO from the street and the wave of warm wormwood just intoxicates.). I understand that everything has warmed up and now you can start preparing the steam room. The door is closed and the surface of the walls and ceiling (aspen lining) is sprayed with hot water, the dropper opens a little more. I cover the top row of vents with a bandage. oven holes (Baby) and leave for a short time, then everything repeats, firewood is laid, walls and ceiling are sprayed, a dropper is added and a humidifier is filled (working name) this is a board with inclined blind grooves, it contains a lot of water and very quickly it gives. For reference, I spray with an ordinary flower sprayer for 2 liters, pump it up and water it. It leaves 3 - 4 volumes,

When I understand that the bath is on the way, I go to enjoy it.

After this moment, I transfer the stove to "hungry" combustion, this is when all the air is blocked and the firewood simply smolders.

The temperature is 45 - 47 degrees, the humidity is such that when you lie down on the canopy, sweat appears very quickly, and in the beginning it’s not even sweat, but condensate, which pleasantly tickles the body as it drains. You can lie in this paradise for an infinitely long time and immediately pull you to sleep. I get wet with sleep like a border guard at the post and get awesome pleasure.

Then a shower with soap, a TV chair, tea - kvass. The second entry is almost the same, but first I spray the walls again, a humidifier. The temperature is 47 - 49, everything happens without the participation of a broom, it still hangs dry in KO. and by feeling.

Finally, there is a desire to take a steam bath, the temperature by that time is 55 - 57 degrees, the humidity is sufficient. A broom is in the pipe, a couple of ladles of water on top and it is ready, and the spirit is awesome, like birch, like Oak, though not long. By the way, in a humid steam room, the smell wormwood is felt weaker than in dry and hot.

The broom is ready, the client is warmed up and the ritual begins, the sweat is no longer from the condensation of steam, but real, a ladle or steam on the heater, you scoop up fresh steam as much as possible and look after yourself until the body tells you what to do next, and then shower, exit to breathe the street, drink kvass-tea, sit in an armchair by TV.

In short, I spray the walls before, during that and together with the supply. In general, getting humidity at 45 degrees is easier than at 56 - 60. Therefore, I try to re-moisten the steam room from the very beginning, so that later it would keep the norm.

And now about the humidifier, a board, 40 kA with grooves (already wrote about it), 250 grams of water fits in and evaporates it very quickly. There is a desire to make a humidifier with an area of 1 sq m and look at the result.

What am I doing wrong?

Humidity, temperature and ventilation are three interrelated and interdependent characteristics of any bath that determine the comfort and benefits of the soaring procedure. Raising one of them requires changing the others. By varying these values, an optimal microclimate for steamers is achieved.

Normally, the air humidity in a Russian bath is 80-100%, and the temperature is 50-60 degrees Celsius. Such high humidity is perfectly tolerated by the human body.

When does it need to be reduced?

If the stove is incorrectly selected or installed, the temperature regime in the steam room is violated. When the temperature changes more than the specified norm in the Russian bath, the steam becomes “heavy” and intense heat is felt. This happens if the power of the furnace does not correspond to the volume of the steam room. When operating metal stoves with a tank, there are sometimes complaints about an increase in humidity at low temperatures in the steam room (40-45 degrees). Water boils early, when the bath has not yet warmed up.

Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to choose a suitable furnace. An increase in humidity in the bath is possible due to inadequate air exchange.

Ventilation in the log bath was not specially thought out, since the humidity in the street and in the steam room was set approximately the same. The issue was resolved by the building itself. Now there are various modifications to the construction of baths, and ventilation planning should be given special attention. If the bath is already built, sometimes it is necessary to install a forced fan to eliminate this problem.

There is a method to reduce the accumulation of condensate on the ceiling and walls in the bath (and, as a result, increase their service life), as well as to ensure the creation of an adequate steam pocket.

Hot air collects under the ceiling and settles on it. The tree first absorbs moisture, and then stops, and a so-called steam pocket is created. For adequate steam production, the ceiling must be heat-retaining.

To do this, at the construction stage of the bath, the following design should be formed.

When the walls have already been erected, reflective heat-insulating material - penofol - is sewn on them and on the ceiling with a construction stapler. It overlaps in a certain way: one edge overlaps the other to create a continuous layer. Then wide bars are nailed to which eurolining will be attached. As a result, an air gap is created between the inner and outer wall and ceiling cladding.

The blower of the furnace is mounted below the floor level, and the concrete is poured with a slope towards the sewer. Logs are installed in the form of a platform, waterproofing material is laid under them, and floorboards are laid on top. An air gap is also formed under the top layer of the floor.

How does this design work?

Hot steam passes from the room through the eurolining and lingers between it and the penofol layer, creating a steam pocket. When condensation forms due to the temperature difference, it flows down to the floor along the foil. The blower door opens and moist air escapes through the chimney.

So, high humidity in the bath will be comfortable if, at the design stage, you choose the right model and size of the stove and think over ventilation. In order for the bath to last longer and create the right steam pocket, you need to create air gaps in the ceiling, walls and floor.

It is best to spend time for the body and peace of mind in the winter in the steam room. But which one to choose? How to properly set the temperature there in order to really improve your health?

Comparison of steam rooms (temperature, humidity)

There are many types of different pairs. Almost every nation has contributed something of its own to the art of washing the body using steam. The most common today are the Russian steam bath, Turkish hammam and Finnish sauna. New infrared saunas are gaining great popularity. Below is more information about how many degrees are in the bath, sauna and hammam and what is the maximum temperature in the sauna.

Of course, this is the optimal temperature suitable for almost all categories of people. Bath attendants with experience, as a rule, prefer hotter. The comfortable temperature for them in the Russian bath lies in the range of 90-120 degrees Celsius. Arriving at a public bath, where, as a rule, these seasoned attendants gather, be prepared to meet just such a temperature.

Russian steam bath

The Russian banya is called a steam room for a reason. Its great advantage is the absence of a big difference between the humidity in the bath and outside the window. The optimum temperature in the bath is 60-90 degrees, maintained by a heater or stove, on which water is poured to achieve the desired level of humidity.

The optimum temperature in the Russian bath lies in the range of 60-90 degrees. Bath attendants with experience can feel comfortable at temperatures up to 100-120 degrees Celsius.

The Russian bath is the only steam room with such an interesting tradition as massage with a broom. The temperature and humidity in the Russian bath are considered optimal for removing toxins in the absence of a strong load on the body. For one visit, you can stay in the Russian steam room 2-4 times for 15-20 minutes.

Finnish sauna

The Finnish sauna is not at all the same as the Russian bath. The temperature here is much higher - about 70-110 degrees, and the humidity is much lower - 5-15%.

It is optimal for one session in the Finnish sauna to visit the steam room no more than 2 times for 5-10 minutes. A break of at least half an hour.

It is believed that the temperature in the sauna is normal - 90-100 degrees, but if you feel unwell, then get out of there as soon as possible. It just doesn't suit you that dry air. Try the Russian steam room or hammam.

The main difference between a bath and a sauna is the temperature regime. There are several types of baths - dry air (sauna), wet (public steam room) and Russian steam bath. In the Russian steam room, air humidity is high (40-70%), and the optimum temperature in the steam room is 50-60º C.

Good bath - hot steam

Humidity in the steam room and on the street has almost the same indicators. The Russian bath has a mild effect on the human body. The ideal ratio of temperature and humidity in the Russian steam room is obtained when the heat-intensive heater is made of brick. It is believed that even if a metal furnace is lined with stone, there will be no such effect.

Soaring in the Russian bath

In order to maintain the required temperature in the steam room, the heater must be located in this room. This option is also allowed when the stove is heated from the rest room, and the remaining three walls are located in the steam room. Quite often, this is how the heater is placed in the bath. It will not be possible to obtain the optimal temperature if the stove is not planned correctly, when only one wall of the heater goes into the steam room.

In order for the steam in the bath to be “light”, one must be a master of the bath business. When the stones are not warmed up, and small droplets of water are felt in the air, the steam will be “heavy”, while it should be close to saturated in all respects. This is achieved by heating the stones in a closed furnace. The door is opened only to add water. In the Russian bath, steam is created independently, that is, it is removed from the stove.

The stove is the heart of the Russian bath

Vapor is the gaseous state of matter. When it is only in the gaseous state, the vapor is dry and saturated. Wet saturated steam is obtained when the substance is in a two-phase state. This occurs when a dry saturated steam and a boiling liquid are combined.

Kamenka for Russian bath

Such optimal indicators of humidity and temperature can be achieved at home and in the bathroom, but the resulting steam will be harmful to the human body. When inhaling heavy vapor, it is even possible to get burned. Some, when trying to get the right temperature in a steam room, do not consider the importance of getting dry steam.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

In the Russian bath are undesirable. When the stones are heated to 200-250 degrees, the air overheats. In the Russian bath, it is very important to get "light steam". That is why they choose those furnaces in which the stones are closed. Only with this oven design can good steam be extracted.

In the bath, fatigue is removed, breathing is trained, the work of the heart is stimulated, hardening and healing of the body as a whole takes place. However, we must not forget that exposure to high temperatures and humidity is a kind of shock for the body. As the temperature rises, the skin heats up for the first few minutes. After that, the temperature of all internal organs increases.

In the Russian bath, steam is extracted from the stove by throwing water on the stones. The particles of the liquid become smaller, and the steam is not burning, but pleasant, the body easily tolerates it. It takes skill and concentration to make good steam. In the sauna, the conditions are stable during the entire stay there.

In the Russian steam room, on the contrary, conditions are constantly changing. You can’t just lie in it, but you need to perform some actions. It is necessary to give and lower steam, as well as perform other actions. Therefore, the Russian bath requires knowledge and the ability to bathe, as well as more time. It is necessary to invest in the process of soaring not only the mind, but also the soul. The oven door is opened only to pour water on the stones. The furnace, which is installed in the bath, should have a minimum heat transfer from the walls.

Russian bath interior

In the Russian steam room, ventilation also matters. In such a bath, excess pressure. The steam that has come out of the oven rises and collects under the ceiling. They make couples differently. Some lower it with sheets, towels, fans. Sometimes the steamers themselves wave brooms.

The steam that rises up settles on the wood. Since the wood is cold, condensation results. The tree first absorbs moisture, and then a film (1-3 mm) appears on it. A vapor bag or pocket is formed. Experts say that it should be 2.4-2.5 meters high. A threshold is also required so that steam does not come out. In the bath, they make a low door so that steam does not penetrate from the steam pocket.

In order to store steam in a pocket under the ceiling, it must be impervious to steam and have sufficient heat capacity. Make such a ceiling as follows. First, reflective thermal insulation (penofol) is attached to the floor beams. Then a board is installed that will absorb steam, thereby preventing it from escaping. Such a board is called moisture-accumulative. Its thickness is about 40-50 mm.

It covers such a ceiling, and high-strength wrapping paper (kraft paper) is laid on top and everything is poured with a clay-sand mortar. The thickness of such a layer is usually 30-50 mm. After that, the insulation is covered, its thickness should be at least 150 mm. The next layer is a windproof film. In order for the temperature regime in the bath to be maintained, it is necessary to properly make the ceiling. The walls do not play a big role in the bath. Although, if desired, you can insulate the walls, or sheathe them with wooden clapboard.

Steam room thermometer and hygrometer

A special stainless steel fan on a wooden handle, which looks like an oval loop, is used to lower the steam. It is usually covered with fabric. They move the steam to the closed door when everyone is already in the bath, so as not to lose part of the steam.

When preparing steam, one pours water on the stones, and the other disperses the air with a fan. Stop pouring water when there is enough steam in the bath. For this reason, the ceiling in the bath is not made low so that there is a steam supply. In the bath, in addition to steam, there should be enough air.

In order for it to be pleasant and easy to breathe in the bath, the air must be infused. Water is poured on hot stones. Steam, mixing with the air of the steam room, interacts with it, and as a result, good and easy breathing is obtained.

In the bath you can lie below. Soaring with a broom can lower the steam. The Russian banya should be prepared for a long time and “survive”. Within six to seven hours, the temperature should gradually rise. During this time, the stones are heated to the required temperature, and after that you can start bathing procedures.

The bath should be well and properly built so that it can be easily heated and fired up the stove. When it is necessary to take into account the fact that the recommended dimensions of the steam room are approximately 2.5x2.5x2.5. It is not recommended to plan smaller sizes. Usually in a family bath, 3-4 people take bath procedures at the same time. The oven is located closer to the door. There should be a distance of 70-80 cm between the stove and the wall. In this place, you can place basins, brooms, and also put benches.

In the steam room, biometric-type thermometers are installed, alcohol, but mercury thermometers are not recommended. After a broken mercury thermometer, the steam room will be completely unusable. Of course, there is a special way to collect mercury and reusable treatment of the premises (demercusation), but this is a very long and expensive process.

Modern interior of Russian bath

In the Russian steam room, you need to decide on the power of the unit. This is important to ensure that the temperature in the steam room is comfortable. Among the sauna stoves, wood-burning heaters are in the lead. There is a large selection on the market today. Buyers pay attention to parameters such as dimensions and stylish design of equipment. It is necessary to carefully study the technical characteristics of the units. For a Russian bath, the most common stove is a steel double-walled stove, which has both a firebox and a casing.

Having melted the stove, the steam room is heated until the temperature at the level of the shelf is 55º-60º C. After that, they begin to extract steam into the room. Then they pour water on the stones three times, observing the intervals. Experienced bathers know what needs to be done to eliminate unpleasant odors in the steam room. First, a mixture of vinegar and water (0.5 liters) is poured onto the stones. The air becomes light and pleasant. A similar procedure is carried out 2 more times, with an interval of 15 minutes, and the air "reaches". At the same time, circular movements are made, thus mixing steam and air. Deep, fragrant and warm steam envelops already after the third steaming.

Straw is spread on wooden bars. Branches of fir, juniper, spruce, stacked on shelves. Mint infusion can be splashed on the stones, and medicinal infusion of birch with thyme can be splashed on the walls. Bath procedures are completed with brooms, which are pre-soaked in a vat of ice water. They lie down on the shelves and put one broom under the head, shaking off the liquid from it, and the second on the face. The body basks under the hot steam, while the soul enjoys the coolness. You can take turns taking out different brooms - oak, linden, and so on. To do this, it is not even necessary to get up from the shelf, but only to reach out and get a cold broom out of the vat.

Make two or three visits to the bath. In order to warm up the body well, the broom is periodically lifted up and shaken. Having sweated well, you can also plunge into the ice hole. After that, the body perceives 70º C, and even all 90º C. In the end, you can relax even at 60 degrees. At the final stage, the body is massaged with birch brooms with soapy foam.

The interior of the steam room in the bath

The heat that is created in the steam room should not burn, but only gently envelop the body. The intensity of heat depends on where the stove is located and what material it is made of. The ripening time in each bath is individual. For sheathing baths, different types of wood are used, which have unequal characteristics. Uniform heating of both surfaces and air creates comfort and contributes to saturation with pleasant aromas of herbs. At the same time, comfortable sensations appear gradually while a person is in the bath. The warmth is getting better every minute.

The speed of air movement affects the microclimate in the bath. If the air is standing still, evaporation on the body is minimal. When they begin to make whipping movements with a broom, they also increase evaporation. With an increase in warming and sweating of the body, feelings of discomfort may occur.

fire up the oven. The temperature is chosen individually, and procedures begin at 40-45 degrees;
going into the bath, you need to sit down and relax;
depending on addictions, they stay in the bath for 20-30 minutes, or they make 3-5 visits;
for the first time, water (5-7 liters) is sprayed on the walls, but not on the heater;
the optimal temperature in the bath is created for a certain humidity;
need to rest after the second call.
having entered the third time, pour water on the ceiling (2-3 liters), then you need to open the heater and warm up the humid air a little. After that, only 50-100 grams of water is poured onto the stones.

Compared to the sauna, the temperature regime in the bath is characterized by increased air humidity. You can increase the humidity and temperature for a short time by watering the stones in the steam room. gas stoves are used to heat stones. These are large structures that must accumulate heat. Moreover, this heat should be enough for a long time of operation of the public steam room.

Wet steam in a Russian bath

For such a long period of operation of the bath, the temperature may be different at certain hours. For example, in the morning the furnace walls reach 100 degrees, and the stones are very hot. Opening the door to the steam room, the soaring feels a strong warmth. During these hours, the ceiling and walls of the steam room get very hot, so in the bath it will look more like a sauna. In the evening, on the contrary, the walls of the furnace and the stones cool down. This is also bad for the Russian bath.

The best temperature for a Russian steam room is 60 degrees, and the oven walls should not exceed 90 degrees. Otherwise, the stove will overheat the steam room.

There are two circuits. The first is internal high temperature, the second is external low temperature. The material from which the inner contour is made is refractory fireclay bricks. The outer contour is made of red brick. The air gap reduces heat radiation and prevents overheating of the heater walls.

The temperature of the outer surface of the oven can be adjusted by opening the circulation doors. The required number of stones is determined by calculations, and on their basis the thermal balance of the steam room is made.

In order to keep the heat accumulated by the stove, it is necessary that the stones warm up strongly, but at the same time and evenly. Therefore, a bell-type heating mode for stones is used. In this mode, not only the required warm-up time is reduced, but also the gas consumption.

The fire chamber of the optimum sizes of the furnace has the divided furnace arches. Such design of a fire chamber protects from an overheat of a bearing arch. It is also possible to make repairs without dismantling the entire furnace. The firebox is not connected to the walls of the thermal chamber, therefore, it is protected from the formation of cracks.

There are sauna lovers who prefer temperatures over 100 degrees. Especially for them, it is possible to regulate the heating of the steam room, that is, to create conditions close to the sauna regime.

There are two ways to do this:

In order to free access to the furnace, open the door of the furnace window. Heat is radiated into the steam room and the temperature rises.
The water supply door opens, and then the air valves.

How to steam in the bath

Furnace designers provided for the possibility of creating a normal temperature regime in the Russian bath. This is a very important point so that the steam room can be heated, and at the same time the walls of the stove do not heat up. Thanks to this, in the Russian bath, you can create the optimal temperature and regularly maintain it at the right level.

With light steam in a bath (for example, with a humidity level of 80%), the following happens: the mass of water breaks up into small drops. With heavy steam, for example, humidity is 30%, water molecules stick together into one drop. This process in the field of physics is called the degree of dispersion of water, or steam moisture. Some confuse this concept with air humidity, but this is not true.

It can be concluded that the higher the temperature rises in the bath, and the evaporation occurs from a large surface, the more dispersed the steam. Such steam is called light. Simultaneously with evaporation, another process takes place in the bath - condensation.

You can measure the temperature in the bath using a conventional glass capillary thermometer. In a bath, for example, the temperature is 40 degrees, the thermometer shows the same value. If you understand that the thermometer imitates the temperature of the human body, you can conduct an experiment. To do this, wet the thermometer, the readings will gradually decrease. This will indicate that the temperature of the human body will also decrease.

In meteorology, the concept of a wet thermometer has long existed (an ordinary thermometer wrapped in a cotton swab). On a dry bulb thermometer, you can see the temperature in the steam room. What temperature the human body will tend to, shows a wet bulb thermometer.

It is very easy to explain why a thermometer shows different temperatures. When there is moisture on the surface of a body (living or inanimate), it evaporates. Evaporation of the liquid causes the object to cool. The concept of a wet bulb in meteorology is very important. It is quite clear that speaking about the temperature regime in the bath, it is necessary to mention the humidity.

A person must adapt to each bath. Fans of the steam room believe that the nature of the bath is better known not by the builder, but by the attendant himself. It will need to be further studied. The Russian banya must not only be built, but also steam must be created in it. They say that there are no two identical Russian baths, but a truly Russian person will adapt and make good steam, even in a not very good steam room.

Russian bath - font of health

Conclusion!

The temperature regime in the bath is influenced by a number of factors. What matters is the temperature in the steam room, the humidity and the speed of air movement. No less important is the thermal radiation from the furnace and its intensity. The design of the heater, baths and a number of other factors affect the climatic parameters.