How are flowers processed? Methods for preserving flowers: in glycerin, gelatin and salt

Rules for cutting and primary processing of flowers

Each type of flower production is characterized by its optimal flower ripening period for cutting. In many cases, this period coincides with the earliest stage of flower development - budding. Within each culture, the time of cutting is determined by the species and varietal characteristics of the plants. So, according to the ability to open from buds, individual varieties are very different from each other. The more petals in the buds, for example, roses, the correspondingly slower they open. Therefore, the more pronounced the doubleness of the flowers, the at a later stage of ripening they are cut off. Otherwise, the flowers may not open at all.
The general rules for the preservation of certain types of flower crops from the moment they are removed from the bush until they are sent to a warehouse or distribution network, regardless of the time and growing conditions, are as follows.
Roses are cut at the stage of a colored bud and half-opening. Double varieties of roses (Bakkara) open more slowly, so they need to be cut off later, when the petals appear (Table 6). Moreover, the flowers of these varieties should have sepals, completely bent down, with released outer petals.

The remontant carnation, cut at the stage of a barely colored bud, does not open in water, since the flower lacks the energy potential for further growth and development, which can only be provided by the influx of nutrients from the root system. The most suitable stage of development of carnation flowers for cutting seems to be the semi-blown stage, when the outer petals are bent outward at a right angle. If in the summer, during the period of mass flowering, carnation flowers are not cut on time, then after two or three days at a relatively high air temperature and good natural light in the greenhouse, a rapid mass opening of flowers begins and they lose their commercial quality, i.e., the so-called recolour.

Daffodils are removed at the bud stage - during the period of the beginning of dissolution, when the flowers have the shape of a "goose neck". Tulips are cut when forming a barely colored bud. Chrysanthemums are usually cut with fully developed reed flowers after the disappearance of the green color in the middle of the inflorescence.
Properly chosen time for cutting during the day is one of the factors that affect the durability of flowers. Usually, in floricultural farms, due to a lack of labor and for other reasons, during the period of mass flowering, cutting is performed throughout the day. However, it is known that flowers cut on a hot sunny afternoon quickly lose water and wither. Even a quick transfer of flowers cut at this time to a cool room and installation in water only partially restores their decorative effect. Flowers remain damaged, and their life expectancy after cutting no longer reaches that characteristic of this culture.

To improve the quality and durability of cut flowers, harvesting is carried out only in the early morning or late afternoon. The daily maximum content of carbohydrates in the leaves is observed in summer between 16 and 18 hours, in spring and autumn - between 14 and 16 hours. carbohydrates. However, roses grown in greenhouse conditions do not tolerate high temperatures very well. In this regard, it is advisable to cut them off at a cooler time - in the early morning.

Of great importance for the quality of the cut is the correct removal of flowering shoots from plants. So, roses must be cut with a sharp pruner. For speed of collection, the remontant carnation is usually not cut off, but broken off in knots. After that, the flowers are taken out of the garter down, so as not to damage the shoots that continue to develop. When harvesting daffodil and tulip flowers, it is also better to break off the shoots.
Collection should not be performed after watering, as the petals rot and lose their decorative effect from moisture. Removed flowers intended for long-term storage are kept head down for some time.

In the future, before placing the product in storage, it must be properly processed after cutting. First, the flowers are quickly transferred to special sorting and packaging facilities with a low temperature (10 ... 15 ° C) and high relative humidity (70 ... 90%). Here, flowers are distributed according to species, varietal and commercial characteristics. For long-term storage, flower stalks are freed from lower and superfluous leaves in order to minimize the evaporation surface and unwanted contact of leaves with water or nutrient solution. Then, flowers of uniform quality are collected in bunches of 25 ... 50 flowering shoots in each, the tips of the stems are repeatedly cut under water with a sharp secateurs (or knife) and placed in vessels with a nutrient solution. Repeated pruning under water is a mandatory operation, which excludes the possibility of clogging the conducting paths of the flowering shoot with air, oxidation products, salts, bacteria, etc. Only after the described operation, cut flowers will be able to actively absorb water or nutrient solution and restore turgor, and therefore decorative effect .

Flower containers must be clean, neutral, non-oxidizing material. It is also necessary to remember the physiological incompatibility of most types of flowers, cut and put together in one tank. The probability of rapid death of flowers of different species placed in one vessel is much higher than that placed in separate vessels.

Cut flowers are subjected to primary processing, as a rule, 24–48 hours before sale. During this period, the flowers receive a sufficient supply of water and carbohydrates, which will help them to endure the subsequent packaging, transportation and marketing period.

Advice:
To extend the shelf life of flower products, it is necessary to choose the best one for cutting a flower.

The site has:

Florists - Caring for flowers. Accelerated growth of flowers cut in the early stages of bud development. Preservation of colors using chemicals Causes of wilting cut flowers Flower growers - lovers about flowers and caring for them

A presented bouquet of fresh flowers naturally wants to be kept fresh and attractive longer. And there are many folk ways to extend the life of flowers. All of them are effective in their own way.

And we wondered how those who sell them to us keep the flowers fresh. After all, the actions of professional florists are guided not only by love for beauty and all living things, but also by a banal benefit, and, as you know, it is the strongest engine of progress.

How florists process flowers and what it threatens us, buyers, and whether these products should be used at home - this article will just tell about this.

What is necessary for the long-term preservation of the bouquet?

The recipe for saving is simple. In order for a bouquet of fresh flowers to remain alive, it needs to organize the flow of nutrients. Let not those that the plant received on the root, but still.

Popular wisdom says: throw sugar (similarly - make a glucose solution). The recipe is about the same - 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

Florists in some cases do use sugar, but more often - ready-made purchased nutrient mixtures for fresh flowers. More often - foreign production. If you manage to get a fake, the effect will amaze the imagination. Flowers do not really fade for a very long time and remain as if fresh. The word "as if" in this case is the key. Why?

If a large number of flowers are sold, then usually they are bought up in huge basins for a long time before being sold. Special funds are added to these basins.

When we buy a bouquet, the flower is drastically deprived of its nutrient medium. And when we come home, we will wrap the lower leaves (and thorns on roses) according to all the rules, refresh the cut ... and put it in water, possibly with sugar ...

And the nutritional value is no longer the same, the flower can no longer “eat” ordinary water - and beauty disappears almost instantly.

There are florists categorically do not use purchased dressings. Real examples are daily and thorough washing of containers with laundry soap, only filtered water, and natural conditions for flowers. They will be comfortable in your home.

But the majority still use it ... There are more conscientious ones - and in addition to the bouquet they give a bonus bag of krizal. From solution to solution - the flower will really stand for a long time. Moreover, the solution must be made the same as in the flower shop.

Krizal and the like not only nourish the flowers, but also maintain the water in the vase in a stable state, so additional disinfection and support of the acid-base balance of water is not required. If special preparations are not used, you have to think about water ...

Bouquet water disinfection

The second thing to consider when storing cut flowers is water. How to stop the growth of bacteria in water?

change water more often
wash the vase thoroughly
throw an aspirin tablet or a tablespoon of vinegar (in an acidic environment, the development of bacteria will not be so rapid).

Florists are as concerned about water quality as we are. What do the professionals do?

Throw activated charcoal tablets. Activated carbon really purifies water, eliminates color, smell, water remains transparent for a long time.
Add whiteness - a couple of drops! Better even one, so as not to overdo it. The water does not become cloudy, it does not smell like anything for a long time.
Domestos - also a couple of drops on a vase.
Ferri

But the folk method with a twig of cypress or pine has also been confirmed among the pros, the light bactericidal property of these plants is really noticeable, for a vase at home it is an indispensable and safe remedy.

Coins, silver things - the meaning of their use is the same, these are attempts to stop the reproduction of bacteria in water.

These are the methods that exist! We will do everything to make the flowers last longer!

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Many gardeners dream of learning how to make from living and dried plants.

Plants lovingly grown in the garden, as well as collected in the field or in the forest, can be used to make a variety of floral arrangements.

To make floral compositions that will delight for a long time, freshly cut plants must be subjected to special processing.
It could be:
- (natural, planar, volumetric);
- impact on plants in different ways (steam, boiling water, paraffin or glycerin);
- discoloration of plants;
- coloring of plant material;
- crystallization of plants;
- ;
- twisting and bending branches.

For most harvested plants destined for further processing, moisture protection is a basic requirement. Therefore, it is necessary to collect plant material in dry sunny weather.
True, there are rare exceptions here, which are dictated by the characteristics of certain plant species.
For example, it retains its color better if the plant is placed in water for a couple of days before drying.
And the bedstraw, dried right in a vase with water, completely retains its decorative effect.

When dried in a vase without water, they look beautiful. But, for example, in gomphrena, and at the same time, the stem becomes broken.

Treatment of plants with steam and boiling water

Steam treatment can give the necessary bend to the stems of dry plants, straighten the petals, restore splendor and volume to the inflorescences (solidago, etc.).

Processing the collected material with boiling water allows you to save some plant species for a long time.

For example, in order to keep fluffy, the flower stalks of plants are cut off when their parachutes have already formed, but the white ball has not yet opened.
A thin wire is inserted into the cut hollow dandelion stem, slightly piercing the base of the basket. A hook is made at the other end of the wire. Then the flower head is lowered into boiling water (for 10-15 seconds), while the achenes are firmly "welded" to the receptacle.
After that, dandelions are hung by a hook on a rope, after bending the stems of plants in accordance with the plan. Once dry, the dandelion balls will open!
And if you first add aniline dye to boiling water, then the fluffy balls of dried dandelions will become colored!

Treatment of plants with paraffin

Melted paraffin treatment is also very effective for plant preservation.
For example, large goatbeard balloons can be preserved by injecting molten paraffin into the basket with a syringe without a needle, directly through the hollow stem of the plant.

For ease of storage, paraffin-treated inflorescences are left with short stems. And before putting into the composition, the stems are lengthened with dried peduncles of other plants (for example, garlic shoots, reed stalks, shrub branches) or simply wire.

plant discoloration

Discoloration of plants is used to obtain a white decorative material.
This process can be divided into two stages: bleaching and bleaching itself.

For bleaching, plants are placed in a warm solution of bleach (0.8%) with soda (0.4%). The container is covered and kept at room temperature for 4-6 days. The solution is drained when the plants immersed in it turn bluish-white.
Then the plants are poured with a 1% solution of bleach without soda, in which they are finally bleached.
The bleached plants are dried.

Plant coloring

Coloring plants is a widespread technique among florists.
Since winter compositions often lack color, the plant material is dyed.

For painting plants, you can use colored aerosol cans with a spray device, a vacuum cleaner or an airbrush (a special device for applying paint in a thin layer).
In this way, both dry and living plant material is dyed.
Plants can be painted with a brush, using gouache or water-based paint of the desired tone.

For example, painted leaves look spectacular in compositions and wreaths.
Very beautiful boxes and linen, painted with gold, bronze or silver paint.

Dry flowers can be immersed in a solution of acetone (at the rate of 3 g per 1 liter of water) and kept to the desired degree of color.

Live white carnations and, put in a solution of ink, acquire the corresponding color. The color intensity of the flowers depends on the concentration of the ink solution.

plant crystallization

Crystallization of plants can be carried out in several ways.

To obtain crystalline plants, they can be kept in a supersaturated hot solution of sodium chloride until cool until a layer of small crystals covers their surface. And if the salt solution is tinted with aniline dye, then the plant will be colored.

A brighter color is achieved by dousing a dry material with a boiling solution of alum (at the rate of 500 g per 1 liter of water). Or they immerse the plants in a hot solution of alum, holding until cooling and the formation of large beautiful crystals.

To obtain blue crystals on plants, a supersaturated solution of copper sulphate at room temperature is used.

Preservation of plants in glycerin

Keeps plants well.
Preservation of plants in glycerin allows you to get elastic and resilient, dark green, maroon or brown leaves with an oily sheen.
Plants treated with glycerin are preserved without noticeable tarnishing for a long time (2-3 years).

Preparation of a glycerin solution for plant treatment is not difficult. Take one part of glycerin, mix it with 2-3 parts of hot (60-70 degrees) water. Leaves, stems or branches of plants with leaves are immersed in the prepared solution.
Plants are kept in a solution of glycerol for 2-3 weeks, then dried.

Plants with leathery leaves are well preserved in glycerin: holly mahonia, oak, etc.

anemones	dahlias	Buttercups	daffodils	Roses	Freesia
asters	gerberas	Poppy	Fern	Lilac	chrysanthemums
cornflowers	Delphinium	daisies	peonies	scabioses	Celosia
carnations	lilies	Spurge	Mignonette	tulips

In the days of celebrations, flowers enhance the festive mood. Even a small bouquet of fresh flowers is enough to leave pleasant memories of a birthday, christening or a dinner party. The flowers presented to you are, of course, specially processed by the florist, and you can simply put them in the water. But if you want the flowers to stand as long as possible, then the information given here will be useful to you. Naturally, when cut, some flowers live longer than others, but there are a number of basic rules for extending the life of cut flowers and keeping them fresh.

First, avoid moving flowers quickly from cool to warm air: a sudden change in temperature can cause the flowers to wilt quickly. If you bring flowers from the street into a heated house, then you need to "accustom" the flowers to the increase in temperature gradually, leaving them first in the lobby, where it is cooler. Only after that you can start processing the stems.

When accepting flowers as a gift, you can be sure that their stems are neatly trimmed, and all leaves are removed from the bottom. At the same time, flowers bought in a bouquet are most often dehydrated. Help the flowers get the amount of moisture they need. To do this, renew the sections of the stems under running water (Fig. 1), carefully remove the lower leaves (Fig. 2) and place the flowers in warm water. In plants with a soft stem, you need to make a long oblique cut (Fig. 3), this will allow the flowers to absorb water better.

Check flowers regularly and add fresh water. This is especially important in hot weather or in houses with central heating, as the water is not only absorbed by plants, but also evaporates.

If you add ammonium solution, disinfectants, cut flower fertilizers (all available in flower shops), or even just sugar (Figure 4) to the water, this will also extend the life of the flowers.

Make sure the water in the vase is clean. Spoiled water (which is often caused by leaves rotting in water) causes the flowers to wilt quickly. In addition, a constant moderate temperature is important. Never place bouquets near radiators or in direct sunlight.

Plants that have multiple flowers per stem will last longer if you remove dead ones. Thanks to this, the buds fully open.

Flowers with long stamens live longer if the stamens are removed. Pull them out by hand, or cut them off with sharp scissors. Thanks to this, the petals will not be stained with pollen.

Spraying the bouquet with water will give it freshness and aroma, and help it last longer (Fig. 5). Just make sure that water does not get on the velvety inflorescences of celosia, as they become stained very quickly.

Very often in bouquets flowers and greens of shrubs are used, the processing of which is slightly different from that which flowers with a herbaceous stem are subjected to. So, branches cut from large bushes have a hard stem covered with bark. If the branches have already been processed by the florist, then there is nothing left for you but to provide them with water. But if the branches still require processing, then before putting them in a vase, cut them obliquely, cut off the lower processes (Fig. 6), make an incision in the lower part of the stem and remove the bark, then split the bottom of the stem into two or three parts ( fig.7) or crush it with a hammer 2 cm of the stem, which will increase the suction surface (fig.8).

unstable stems poppy, mignonette, daisies, dahlias and other similar colors must be held for a few seconds over the candle flame (lower part) or lowered for 2-3 minutes in a small amount of very hot water. Other types of plants, such as spurge or some ferns, also need such treatment. In milkweed, milky juice is secreted on the cut. It pollutes the water and deprives the flowers of essential nutrients, causing them to fade quickly. Check your flowers to see if they have a similar problem. In this case, a quick cauterization of the sections will stop the release and contamination of the water. Water at the same time will flow into the stem.

Cut tulips wither fairly quickly, but if you dip the stems of withered flowers in hot water, they will quickly acquire their original freshness. Beforehand, it is necessary to renew the cuts on the stems and wrap them tightly with paper, which contributes not only to restoring freshness, but also to straightening the stems of tulips. Leave them in the water for as long as it takes to fully restore the flower.

Rose care. First of all, the thorns are cut off from the stem (Fig. 9), as well as all the extra leaves, but the thorns have most often already been removed from purchased roses. Some varieties of roses do not have thorns. Before putting them in a vase, cut the stem obliquely (fig. 3), then split the bottom of the stem (fig. 7) into two or three parts or crush it with a 2 cm stem hammer (fig. 8), which will increase the suction surface. In water or wet moss, roses remain fresh for up to ten days. If the roses begin to fade quickly, recut the stems (Figure 3) and dip them in very hot water. Rose care includes the careful removal of any damaged or dried petals. Roses are distinguished by incompatibility, capricious "temper". Do not put them in the same vase with other flowers.

Gerbera stems do not store well in water, so the vase where the gerberas will stand is thoroughly washed beforehand, and disinfectants and fertilizers for cut flowers are added to the water.

Lilac branches, cut from large bushes, have a hard, bark-covered stem. Before putting them in a vase, cut the branch obliquely, make an incision in the lower part of the stem and remove the bark, then split the bottom of the stem into two or three parts (Fig. 7) or crush it with a hammer 2 cm of the stem (Fig. 8), which will increase the suction surface. To prolong the life of lilacs, remove all leaves from the shoots, because they evaporate the moisture the flowers need. Use a cut flower fertilizer (Figure 4) and change the water in the vase more often to encourage more blooms. If the stems are pretreated, the flowers stand in water for up to two weeks.

Delphiniums stay in water for eight to twelve days. Delphinium, having a hollow stem, "drinks" water better if a small cotton swab is inserted into the base of the stem. This tool can be used for other flowers that have a hollow stem. To prevent vase water from spoiling, always remove the leaves from the bottom of the stems and add cut flower fertilizer to the water (fig. 4) - this will prolong their life. In addition, delphiniums lend themselves perfectly to drying.

Usually peonies are cut in the bud stage. The flowers open slowly and fade at the end of the second week. To prevent the rapid fall of the petals, peonies must be placed for twenty-four hours in a dry, cool place. Peonies lend themselves well to drying if hung in a well-ventilated, warm place. Dried peony flowers can be used to make winter bouquets.

In cut freesias, only the first few flowers are open - the buds will bloom later. As they wither, drying flowers are removed. Flowers last longer in a vase if a little sugar is added to the water.

Ranunculus stems can sometimes be a bit soft and curved, but with proper preparation, the flowers will last up to two weeks in a vase. Keep in mind: buttercups lend themselves well to drying, but the dried stems have to be strengthened with wire.

Sold in bud, anemones bloom quickly in warm, bright rooms and stand in a vase of water for up to twelve days. Anemones will stand longer if you add some fertilizer (fig. 4) to the water for cut flowers.

Before putting the cornflowers in the water, remove all small leaves, shoots and unopened buds from the lower part of the stem that will be in the water. Be sure to add cut flower fertilizer to the vase (fig. 4) and change the water more often. Cut cornflowers can stand for almost a week. These flowers lend themselves perfectly to drying and are successfully used to make winter bouquets.

Bought most often in buds, in the light and in warmth, daffodils bloom very quickly and stand in water for up to two weeks. After pruning, the stems begin to secrete milky juice, which spoils the water. That is why the water in a vase with daffodils should be changed daily.

Longevity in the cut has made chrysanthemums so popular that some have come to consider them almost trite. Chrysanthemums stand in water for up to two weeks. Be sure to remove all leaves from the bottom of the stems.

Before using celosia, all leaves should be removed from the stem. Be careful not to get water on the velvety celosia buds, as they stain very quickly. Before placing the celosia in a vase of water, renew the sections of the stems (Fig. 3) and split them (Fig. 7). Add cut flower fertilizer to the water (Figure 4). Flowers stay cut for up to ten days. Celosia inflorescences lend themselves perfectly to drying and, when dried, retain their color much better than many other flowers.

Asters stems are short with small leaves that should be removed before placing in a vase. Carefully monitor the condition of the water and change it as often as possible. Cut asters last up to two weeks.

Scabioses are usually sold half-blown. Cut the stems (Fig. 3) and remove all leaves from their lower part. Scabioses in a bouquet have many small unblown buds on the stems. Leaving them on plants or not depends on the style of the bouquet. However, you should know that most of them will never bloom, because the flowers were cut very early. If you cut the stems daily and change the water in the vase, pouring it to the brim, scabioses remain fresh for up to two weeks.

Lilies stay fresh for up to ten days in a vase filled with water. Stamens with pollen can be removed from the flower so that the pollen does not stain clothing or furniture. As they fade, the lower flowers on the stem must be removed.

Cut cloves stay fresh for up to three weeks. They are distinguished by incompatibility, capricious "temper". Do not put them in the same vase with other flowers.

Flowers should be in a bright room, but not in direct sunlight. It is undesirable that there are drafts in the room. The temperature in the room also plays an important role: at a temperature of 18-19 °, the flowers last longer than at a temperature of 22 °. At night, it is recommended to put the flowers in a cooler place (from +10 to +15 ° C) or wrap them tightly in paper and immerse them in a bucket of water. For more information about choosing a place for flowers and the aesthetic value of a bouquet, see the "Choosing a place for a composition" section.

Some flowers are not recommended to be put together in one vessel, such as roses and carnations. Sweet peas can also harm their neighbors in a vase. Lilies of the valley, daffodils, mignonette contribute to the acceleration of wilting. Sprigs of geranium, thuja, woodruff, on the contrary, help keep flowers fresh longer.

See how to deal with indoor plant pests. Introducing measures to combat the common plan of action at home. We consider drugs and folk remedies with prices and tips.

ADVIСE

Prevention is the best pest control method.
Follow the rules for caring for the plant, do not allow waterlogging and overdrying of the soil. Proper care - increases resistance to pests and diseases!
Avoid excessively low levels of air humidity, especially in summer and winter when the batteries are on.
Regular inspection of the plant allows you to detect pests at an early stage, which greatly increases the chances of success. Especially carefully inspect young leaves, flowers and buds.
When planting or transplanting a plant, be sure to sterilize the soil mixture. For sterilization methods, see the article: "".
Often pests hide at the base of the plant trunk under the top layer of the substrate. If pests are found, replace the potting mix.
Some types of pests cannot be seen (for example, miner flies) and their presence can be determined only by symptoms.

Aphid eggs, larvae and adults

Plant pest control products

Traditionally, chemicals and folk remedies are isolated. The dilemma of using certain means before the grower always arises as soon as pests appear. With the accumulation of experience in wrestling, preferences appear.

Therefore, opinions are divided about what is best to use, and each side has its own arguments in favor of drugs or folk methods.

Folk remedies are indispensable in the processing of vegetable and fruit crops. And for indoor flowers it is often easier and more convenient to use chemicals.

The editors of the magazine "Feast of Flowers" believes that one should be guided by:

What pest are you fighting?
The degree of damage to the plant.
Personal preference and how important the result is.

Preparations against plant pests

The topic of the safety of using special means to control pests of indoor plants is always relevant. At the moment, all chemicals are more or less dangerous to humans, birds, fish and animals.

First, choose products with a lower hazard class - III or IV, and in extreme cases - II.
When treating indoor plants with chemicals, follow the instructions exactly, follow the dosage and precautions.

Popular and affordable drugs

Each drug against pests indicates the active substance, approximate price and hazard class (toxicity).

4 - low danger to humans, safe for bees and beneficial insects, 3 - moderately dangerous substance, 2 - highly dangerous substance, 1 - extremely dangerous for humans and animals.

Non-systemic insecticides of contact-intestinal action

"Akarin" (the old name "Agravertin") - 4, (Avertin), price: 4 ml package - 13-20 rubles.
"Aktellik" - 2, (pyrimifos-methyl), price: 2 ml package - 30-50 rubles. On the territory of Russia, the drug for personal use is not registered as of 01.10.2016. Although sometimes the drug can still be found in small stores and on the Internet.
"Bankol" - 3 (bensultap), price: a package of 10 grams - 30-40 rubles.
"Vertimek" - 2, (abamectin), price: $ 90 / liter, manual packaging - 2 ml - 25 rubles.
"Inta-Vir" - 3, (cypermethrin), price: package 8 gr - 10-15 rubles.
"Karbofos" ("Malathion", "Fufanon", "Iskra M") - 3, (malathion), price: a package of 30 gr - 30-40 rubles (a sharp unpleasant odor).
"Fitoverm" - 4, (aversectin C), price: package (ampoule) 4ml - 15-20 rubles.

Systemic insecticides of contact-intestinal action

"Aktara" - 3, (thiamethoxam), price: 1.2 ml ampoule - 40-50 rubles, package 4 gr - 90-120 rubles.
"Confidor Extra" - 3, (imidacloprid), price: package 1 gr - 30-40 rubles.
"Tanrek" - 3, (imidacloprid), price: 1 ml ampoule - 10-15 rubles.

Prices are based on hypermarkets such as "Obi", "Leroy Merlin" according to the rate of 1 dollar = 65 rubles. These preparations are widely found in many flower shops.

Specific acaricides

Benzylates - "Neoron" - 3, (bromopropylate).
Derivatives of sulfonic acids - "Nissoran" - 4, (hexythiazox) and a group of tetronic acids - "Oberon" - 3, (spiromesifen).
Propargit - "Omayt 30 and 57" - 2, (propargit).
Pyridazipones - "Sunmite" - 3, (pyridaben), 1 treatment per year, no smell.
Ketoenols - "Envidor" - 3, (spiridiclofen).
Quinozolines - "Demitan KS" - 2, (phenazaquine).
Pyrazoles - "Ortus" - 3, (fenpyroximate).
Tetrazines - "Apollo" - 4, (clofentezin), "Flumite" - 4, (fluvenzin)

Insectoacaricides

On the basis of organophosphorus substances - "Aktellik" - 2, (pyrimifos-methyl), "Dursban" - 3, (chlorpyrifos) and "Karbofos" ("Malathion", "Fufanon") - 3, (malathion).
Based on the derivatives of the synthesis of the fungus Streptomyces avermitilis: "Akarin" (the old name "Agravertin") and "Kleshchevit" - 4, Avertin (the tick practically does not get used to it), "Aktofit" - 4, (aversectin C), "Vertimek" - 2, (abamectin), "Fitoverm" - 4, (aversectin C).

IMPORTANT! Specific acaricides and insectoacaricides are used to control spider mites, and insecticides to control insects.

What is the best drug?

These funds can be alternated if necessary.

In case of a serious defeat or a weak effect, go to Aktellik, Karbofos or Vertimek as they are more toxic.

"Karbofos", "Vertimek" and "Aktellik" can only process indoor plants in the open air.

General treatment plan

Treat the indoor flower with insecticides 3-4 times every 7-8 days at an average daily temperature of 22-24 °, and when the temperature is higher (25-28 °), then after 5-6 days. At an average temperature of 15-20 ° - 10-12 days, and if below 15 ° - 8-10 days.
Be aware that if the air temperature at the time of spraying is below 18 °, then the effectiveness of chemicals is seriously reduced.
After spraying, you do not need to put a plastic transparent bag on the home flower, it is more important to carry out a second procedure at the right time.
Remember that a single treatment with any drug gives a one-time effect.

How to properly treat plants with drugs?

Be sure to take personal protective measures (skin, respiratory organs).
After the procedure, wash your hands and face with soap and rinse your throat and nose with water.
Treat plants only when dry.
The best time for the procedure is before 12.00. On a cloudy day, until 14.00. During and after treatment, until the plant dries, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
The optimum temperature is 20-26 degrees Celsius.
A place for processing a flower with drugs of the 3rd and 4th hazard class can be a balcony or a bathroom, and only open air with drugs of the 2nd class. Avoid getting drugs on foreign objects.
For a greater effect from spraying with any preparation, it is recommended to add soap to the solution.
Be sure to ventilate the room well after using the drugs.

IMPORTANT! Carefully read the instructions for the drug - consumption rates may differ as they are often produced in liquid and dry form, in different concentrations of active ingredients or package sizes.

Folk remedies for pest control

Here we indicate some popular means, since there are subtleties in the fight against various pests, which are described in a special material.

ROOT PLIERS- prevention: pour a glass of (dry!) alder leaves with a liter of boiling water and leave for 24 hours. Then heat the infusion to 50 ° C and dip the bulbs or tubers into it for five minutes before planting.

TICKS, APHIDS, TRIPS: Pour 80 g of crushed dry yarrow leaves with a liter of boiling water, leave for two days and spray the flower.

TICKS and APHIDS: in a liter of water, insist 15 g of chopped onions in a closed container (glass jar) for 5-7 hours and can be sprayed.

FALSE SHIELD, APHIDS, TRIPS: take 300-400 grams of fresh celandine during flowering (or 100 grams of dry), insist in a liter of water for 24-36 hours and can be sprayed.

APHI and TRIPS: Leave 40 g of tobacco or shag for 48 hours in a liter of water, strain and add a liter of water. Spray the plant with the resulting tobacco infusion.

TRIPS: pour a glass of dry marigold flowers with a liter of warm water, leave for 48 hours, filter and spray the plant.

TRIPS and TICKETS:

1. A glass of wood ash is infused in five liters of water, and then a quarter of grated laundry soap is added and the plant is sprayed.

2. Two grams of kerosene and 40 grams of laundry soap are added to 10 liters of water.

3. 300-500 grams of fresh leaves or chopped roots of medicinal dandelion insist in 10 liters of water for two hours, then strain and spray.

For more information about the use of folk remedies, see the article on the fight against a specific pest.

Treatment of indoor plants with an alcohol solution

Washing indoor flowers with an alcohol solution effectively mechanically destroys some pests - mealybug, scale insect and false shield.

Soak a cotton swab (brush with semi-rigid bristles) in alcohol (strong tincture) and try to remove pests from the plant.

IMPORTANT! Washing with alcohol is well tolerated by woody parts (branches, trunk) and glossy leaves, but poorly tolerated by pubescent leaves. Therefore, first treat individual leaves of the plant, and only then carry out a complete wash.

Treatment of plants with water-oil emulsion

Water-oil emulsion allows you to get rid of pests by blocking the spiracle of the insect. To increase the covering power of the emulsion, the oil is mixed with a soapy solution.

In 200 ml of water, add 2-3 tbsp. l. machine (sunflower) oil and a little soap or dish detergent.
Shake the resulting mixture well, soak a cotton swab (brush) in it and apply the emulsion to the entire surface of the flower.
Leave the plant for 2-3 hours, and then rinse thoroughly with a warm shower.

IMPORTANT! Before treating the plant, cover the soil in the pot so that the emulsion does not get on it. If possible, treat a few leaves to see if they tolerate the oil-in-water emulsion before thoroughly washing the plant.

Where do pests come from in the home?

Pests enter the house from the open air, and their path can be anything.

Most often they are brought along with garden plants (a bouquet of flowers from a summer residence), garden soil (ground for transplanting), after taking the plants into the yard or veranda in the summer and together with a purchased indoor flower.