Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder drawing. How to make a potbelly stove of long burning from a gas bottle

It is not always advisable to use an autonomous heating system, sometimes episodic heating of the room is required. In this case, you can use electric heaters or potbelly stoves.

The second option is more economical, especially since it can be made at home from improvised material. The easiest to perform is a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder.

Due to the fact that very thick metal is used for the manufacture of cylinders, the potbelly stove will last a long time. In addition, the design of the furnace is very simple, which will allow anyone with a welding machine and a little experience in this matter to make it on their own.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of this wood burning stove is quite simple. All that is required is to lay firewood on a grate of grates and light them.

This will allow the metal cylinder to warm up. One of the advantages of this design is the rapid heating. Although after the firewood in the stove burns out, the surface also cools quickly.

The choice of cylinders for potbelly stoves

The cylinder will be required for the manufacture of the case, but how to understand which one is needed if the dimensions of the gas cylinder are different. The smallest, the volume of which is 5 liters, is not recommended for use for these purposes.

From cylinders of 12 and 27 liters, you get a potbelly stove with low power, which is suitable for heating a small room. The best option is a 50 liter bottle. Its height is 850 mm, diameter is 300 mm.

Due to the thick walls, any material can be used as a fuel. In addition, its weight is not very large, so a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can be easily made by one person.

In addition, there are 40-liter industrial gas tanks that have the same volume, but have a smaller diameter.

Unlike the first option, the use of a gas reservoir complicates the work process. Its weight is greater, and the length exceeds the previous version.

When performing work from a gas reservoir, you can get the result of a longer warm-up, but the cooling of the unit will also be much slower.

Doors for potbelly stove

For these purposes, you can purchase doors or make them yourself. In the first option, cast structures are chosen. The potbelly stove contains two doors, one for laying firewood, the other for a blower. The door for the bookmark should be larger.

To make the door, take a piece of the balloon wall. In addition, loops are selected that are welded to the base of the potbelly stove. In addition, you need to weld a latch to the door.

Grids

The simplest option does not provide for the presence of grates, especially if it is a potbelly stove with a horizontal arrangement. To increase heat transfer, additional metal strips are welded.

If it is necessary to install grates in a horizontal version, then the ash tray is welded from below.

In the vertical version, grate bars are installed more often. To do this, bars from thick reinforcement are welded in the inside of the furnace. She will play the role of grate. The only drawback is the burn-out of the reinforcement, but in any case, you can weld a new one.

Making a potbelly stove with your own hands

First you need to check the gas cylinder for gas residues. This is done by unscrewing the valve, and the outgoing jet is directed away from you.

  • After the gas flow has dried up, the container is turned over and the residual condensate is poured out. This process is accompanied by an unpleasant odor, so it is recommended to drain it into a special dish that can be thrown away.
  • Then the balloon is filled with water up to the neck. This will help to finally get rid of the remaining gas.
  • After that, the water is drained.
  • Now the cylinder is completely ready for re-equipment. On the cylinder make markings for the chimney and doors. With the help of a grinder, marked places are cut out.
  • Doors are made from cut pieces by welding hinges and latches, grates (grate) and a chimney.

Types of bourgeois

Potbelly stoves can be of various shapes and designs, but the principle of operation remains the same. A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can be of two types:

  • Horizontal.
  • Vertical.

For the first option, the balloon is placed horizontally. The upper part is cut off, grates are installed inside, which can be made from reinforcement.

After that, proceed to the front. A circle is cut out of a sheet of steel, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the future furnace. Inside the workpiece, rectangles are cut out for the doors.

Curtains are welded to the finished workpiece and doors are put on them. The resulting structure is welded to the front.

A chimney will be located on the back, for this a hole is made, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the pipe.

For the second option, the balloon is located vertically. To complete the work on the arrangement of the furnace, you can use two methods.

  • The first contains several stages of execution, which takes more time, but there are much less difficulties during installation.
  • The second method is more economical in terms of time, but extremely inconvenient during installation.

After that, the grate is prepared. To fix them in the oven, you need to work hard, with the first method it is easier to do this, because the grate is easily installed through the cut off upper part. With the second method, this is more difficult to do.

Having installed the grilles, you can start welding the curtains and placing the doors. For tightness, the joints are glued with asbestos-cement cord.

The next step is the chimney. It can also be installed in two ways:

  • Through the hole in the top of the bottle.
  • through the side hole.

With a lateral location, I use an additional knee.

And the last step is the final assembly. If the upper part of the cylinder has been cut off, it is welded and a chimney is attached, which can be of different lengths and configurations.

Video: Stove potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Optimizing the cost of heating a country house is a very urgent task for its owner: what to use as fuel, which thermal unit is the best. Home-made gas cylinder stoves are very popular, allowing the use of very cheap, sometimes just junk fuel. In this case, heating costs are minimal.

Making a thermal unit with your own hands from a cylinder

A zealous owner carefully insulates his house, trying to reduce the cost of heating it. In addition, there are a number of objects that need to be heated periodically: workshops, garages, outbuildings. Greenhouses or conservatories need to be heated regularly.

Therefore, home craftsmen are constantly developing and implementing additional thermal units of various designs. The most popular are products from gas cylinders. The reason for this is a convenient form and almost ideal proportions and characteristics of the material.

The efficiency of stoves from cylinders reaches 85-90%, which is a very high figure in comparison with home-made stoves of other forms. The rounded shape is ideal for intensive fuel pyrolysis and allows you to arrange holes for the exit of smoke and the supply of oxygen to the combustion zone at the lowest cost.

A simple and efficient gas cylinder stove will last a long time

What is a balloon oven

The well-known "potbelly stove" is a classic representative of thermal units from an old cylinder. She received this name for her extraordinary voracity, consuming a large amount of fuel. But its main advantage is the rapid ignition and heating. This is especially important in extreme situations, when for some reason the operation of the main heating stops.

In the design of such a furnace, the cylinders can be in both vertical and horizontal positions. Heat transfer occurs through the surface of the furnace and can be significantly increased by welding metal fins onto the surface. In addition, it is possible to utilize the heat of flue gases by passing them through a pipe embedded in a water tank. Water heated in this way is used in the heating circuit or used in the household through an indirect heating boiler.

Pyrolysis furnaces occupy a special place in heating devices from cylinders. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of fuel that occurs with minimal access to oxygen. At a temperature of more than 300 degrees, the fuel in the furnace does not just burn out during the oxidation process, but decomposes into gas fractions, which give higher temperatures when ignited.

Photo gallery: types of furnaces with a cylinder body

What bottles can be used

Not every gas cylinder is suitable for the manufacture of the furnace body. For example, composite cylinders are not recommended. Despite its strength, the composite does not tolerate high temperatures well.

A container of 5 liters cannot serve as a furnace body due to its small size, but containers for liquid fuel are successfully made from it.

You can use cylinders with a volume of 12 and 27 liters. They make excellent thermal units with a capacity of 2–3 kilowatts and 5–7 kilowatts, respectively.

Most often, furnace bodies are made from cylinders with a capacity of 50 liters. Its dimensions - a diameter of 30 centimeters and a height of 85 - are optimal for the installation of a thermal unit. A furnace of this volume is capable of heating a small country house with high quality.

A propane tank with a volume of 50 liters is best suited for a homemade stove body

Oxygen cylinders for stoves are rarely used. The size ratio is not very convenient for the furnace device, and a significant height makes such a unit unstable.

Types of long-burning stoves from a gas cylinder

There are many options for making furnaces from cylinders. Each home master makes his own changes to them, corresponding to the capabilities and understanding of the process. At the same time, long-burning pyrolysis furnaces are the most popular. In such designs, the combustion time of the flue material varies from 12 hours to a day or more, which can significantly reduce fuel consumption.

Furnaces with conical stacking of fuel

A popular type of pyrolysis oven is the conical fuel stacking design. In such a furnace, a pin is installed along the axis of the furnace from the grate. When loading, a wooden or tin cone is put on it with the base up. The furnace is filled from above with sawdust, shavings or wood chips. At the same time, the furnace material must be well compacted so that the bookmark is as dense as possible.

When the fuel is loaded, the cone must be pulled out and the lid closed. Fuel is ignited through a blower with a small amount of wood chips or a dry fuel tablet. As soon as the fuel flares up well, the blower door must be closed, limiting the flow of air into the furnace. Further, the fuel simply smolders, but this is enough to reach the pyrolysis temperature. Smoke is removed through a pipe in the upper part of the body. With this design, "samovar" hot water tanks are also used for a radiator heating system or water heating in an indirect heating boiler. It is convenient to use a gas or oxygen cylinder as a heating container, passing the chimney pipe along the axis of the vessel. A fitting for hot water is welded in the upper part, and a return pipe in the lower part. The circulation occurs naturally without the use of a pump, which makes the heating system energy independent.

The burning time of one bookmark is 12-16 hours.

Sawdust should be compacted as tightly as possible

Liquid fuel pyrolysis ovens

For these thermal units, fuels such as diesel, diesel fuel or used oil are used. The use of other energy carriers is considered exotic due to the high cost.

Consider the option of using used oil as a fuel. To make a simple oven, you need:

  1. Install a pipe with a diameter of about 100 millimeters in the upper part of the cylinder.
  2. About 30 holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters must be drilled in the walls of the pipe.
  3. Place a bowl-shaped container with a diameter of 120–140 mm with sides 25–30 mm high at the bottom of the cylinder.
  4. A tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters with oil and a fuel supply regulator is connected to the container through the wall of the cylinder.
  5. The removal of combustion products is carried out through the side pipe in the upper part of the body.

Ignition of a cold furnace is carried out in the following order:

  1. Open the cock on the fuel tank and pour used oil into the bowl up to about the middle of the walls.
  2. On top of the oil you need to pour up to 50 grams of gasoline. Having a lower density, it will remain on the surface.
  3. Ignite gasoline. When the temperature rises, the oil boils and begins to emit vapors that also ignite. The flame is drawn into the perforated pipe by the air flow.
  4. With a further increase in temperature, pyrolysis of the fuel occurs, and the intensity of combustion increases. Flue gases are removed through the upper chamber along the side pipe. The temperature in the combustion chamber is such that the pipe heats up red-hot, and the furnace body quickly heats up from it.
  5. Under these circumstances, it is desirable to partially cool the furnace gases in the chimney using a samovar-type water heating tank.

With all the positive qualities of such a thermal unit, including the simplicity of design and low cost of fuel, there is a significant drawback. In the room where such a furnace operates, the smell of burning petroleum products is constantly present. Therefore, the structure must be taken out of the residential or industrial premises.

An old cylinder and used oil will effectively heat the house

Video: waste oil furnace from a gas cylinder

Long-burning solid fuel stoves

Solid fuel appliances use the following types of fuel to generate heat:

  • firewood;
  • woodworking waste in the form of sawdust, shavings, scraps, chips;
  • peat;
  • coal.

There are known cases of using used tires for heating after their grinding.

One of the most popular designs of this type is considered to be a home-made stove with the funny name "bubafonya". It can be made with minimal labor and materials. The basis for the manufacture is a body made of a gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 liters.

The fuel for such a unit can be technological chips, crushed remains of branches and twigs, sawdust and shavings. The only requirement for it is that the humidity should not exceed 12%, which corresponds to the standards for fuel for wood stoves. The duration of burning of one bookmark is from 14 to 24 hours, depending on the density of its laying. The fuel is ignited after the weight and cover are installed. The fins on the weight form channels for air, allowing the fuel to burn and decompose into pyrolysis gases. The gases enter the upper chamber, where they burn at a high temperature.

As the fuel burns, the piston moves down.

Slow burning pyrolysis furnace "Bubafonya"

It is impossible to describe or simply list all the designs of furnaces that can be made from cylinders, but it is advisable to consider in detail the design of the “boubafonya”. Such a model can be made at home with your own hands.

Security

Before describing the design of the furnace and the technology of its manufacture, let's pay attention to safety issues. It will be a question of preparation of the cylinder for processing. Despite the dense structure, the inner surface of the metal is dotted with a network of microscopic cracks. During long-term operation of the container for its intended purpose, a considerable amount of gas condensate and its precipitation accumulate inside these defects. Such a substance may be explosive and is in no way beneficial to health. Before you start working with the balloon, you need to fill it with water and let it stand for 2-3 days. The operation is best done away from home. When the liquid is drained, the reasons for such a recommendation will become clear - it has an extremely unpleasant and strong odor.

Video: how to safely disassemble a gas cylinder

Tools and materials for the manufacture of the furnace "Bubafonya"

To make such a thermal unit with your own hands, you will need:

Table: required materials and tools

NamePurposeNotes
Cylinder for furnace bodyManufacturing of the main productboo
Steel bar with a diameter of 10 mmProduction of handles on the lid and body of the furnaceFrom waste
Corners 45x45, any profile, pipe cuttingsFor support legsFrom waste
BulgarianCutting blank parts, cutting the cylinder in the manufacture of the body
Steel sheet 6–10 mm thickpancake making
Steel strip 40x4 mmManufacturing of support ribs
Cement, sand, gravel and fireclay bricksProduction of the supporting base of the furnace
Reinforcing barsFoundation reinforcement
Trowel, shovel, container for mixing mortarFoundation pouring
Welding machine for working with ferrous metals and electrodes for itMaking welded joints when assembling the furnaceRent possible
Electric drill not less than 0.7 kW, a set of drills for metalHole drilling
Measuring toolTaking measurements and marking
Locksmith cornerPositioning of parts during assembly, quality control
KernerHole marking
Files flat and semicircularRemoving sharp edges and burrs, sizing
Black markerMarkup production
Individual protection meansGlasses, welder's mask, face shield, mittens, gloves, special shoes, rags.

In addition to the above, you will need some tools from the standard locksmith set: a hammer, pliers, etc.

The procedure for the manufacture of the furnace "Bubafonya"

The advantage of this model is that the cylinder body is subject to the least intervention. The manufacturing procedure for the bubafonya furnace is as follows:

  1. Separate the head dome of the cylinder using a grinder.
  2. Make a hole in it along the axis with a diameter of about 80 millimeters. Since the domed part will later be used as a cover, two bar handles must be welded to it. The cap will have to be removed every time you load fuel.

    Cut off the top of the cylinder - a detail for the manufacture of the cap

  3. In the bottom of the cylinder, make a hole of approximately the same diameter. Its purpose is periodic cleaning of combustion residues. This hole must be closed with a reliable damper.
  4. Approximately 5 centimeters from the top edge of the body, you need to make a hole for the chimney pipe. Usually it is a pipe with a diameter of up to 15 centimeters with a wall of at least 4 millimeters.
  5. At a distance of approximately 10-12 centimeters from the bottom of the cylinder, drill three holes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. They are arranged in a circle at an angle of 120 degrees with respect to each other. Bars with a diameter of 9.0–9.5 millimeters are inserted into the holes so that they protrude inward by 20–25 millimeters. Outside, the bars must be welded to the body.
  6. Cut a circle from a sheet four millimeters thick with a diameter two millimeters smaller than the internal size of the case. Drill 20-25 holes in it with a diameter of 10 millimeters. This part will play the role of a grate.
  7. Install the part on the protrusions of the pins.
  8. Next, you need to make a piston, which will also perform the function of a load. The piston consists of several simple parts. The first is a pipe with a diameter of about 80 millimeters with a wall of up to four millimeters. It is allowed to use an electric-welded straight-seam pipe. The second part is a pancake, in the center of which you need to cut a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe. The pipe is welded to the pancake at a right angle coaxially.

    Fins on the pancake provide air for fuel pyrolysis

  9. Ribs are welded to the lower surface of the ring from a strip with a width of about 40 millimeters or a corner of the appropriate size. They are located from the center to the edge of the pancake. The number of ribs is 4–6 pieces.
  10. A damper must be installed at the upper end of the pipe in order to be able to completely close the hole in the pipe.

    Flue gas outlet and damper to shut off the air supply

The order of laying fuel and ignition of the furnace

The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

  1. Fuel preparation consists in grinding large fragments to the state of technological chips (5x20 mm) and mixing it with sawdust and shavings.
  2. Pour fuel into the furnace; at the same time, it is necessary to compact it, achieving the highest mass density.
  3. Lightly moisten the surface of the fuel insert with lighter fluid.
  4. Install the piston in the furnace body with the pancake down, fully open the damper on the pipe.
  5. Close the lid.
  6. To ignite the fuel, take a small rag soaked in the ignition fluid and lower it into the pipe. If you just throw a match there, it will go out along the way.

Photo gallery: how to light the bubafonya stove

When the fuel is ignited, the furnace heats up. Combustion air will flow through the pipe from top to bottom. When the temperature reaches 300 degrees, the process of fuel decomposition begins. Pyrolysis gases penetrate into the upper compartment and ignite there. From this point on, you can completely close the damper on the pipe.

The combustion process takes place as follows:

  1. After closing the damper, air enters the furnace through the slotted gap between the pipe and the edges of the hole in the lid. The combustion of pyrolysis gases creates a sufficient temperature for the decomposition of the following layers of fuel.
  2. The ribs on the bottom of the pancake prevent it from sinking onto the fuel layer and blocking the combustion. Through the cavities between them, gases enter the upper chamber.
  3. Thus, there is a layer-by-layer consumption of combustible material with the formation of a large amount of heat.

The burning of one bookmark lasts up to a day or more.

Such stoves are no less successful in coping with fuels such as peat or pellets.

Heat recovery occurs by heating the furnace body. However, it cannot be complete. It is also desirable to use the samovar method of taking energy for heating through a radiator heating system.

Video: review of the bubafonya furnace: device, kindling, advantages and disadvantages

Calculation of the main parameters of the furnace "Bubafonya"

The effective operation of a furnace of this design directly depends on the combination of many indicators and their optimal interaction.

Furnace wall thickness

According to the experience of operating long-burning furnaces, 4-5 millimeters are recognized as the optimal wall thickness. This is just such a parameter that a fifty-liter cylinder has. If the wall is thinner, heat transfer is disturbed and the body burns out rather quickly.

Calculation of pancake parameters

The gap between the pancake and the inner wall of the cylinder is determined by the ratio s = 0.5D. That is, with a diameter of 300 mm, this value will be 300 x 0.05 = 15 millimeters. It should be noted that compliance with this parameter is very important. With a larger gap, the fuel near the walls will burn more slowly, as a result of which the pancake may fall into the bookmark and combustion will stop.

As established in practice, the height of the pressure ribs is 40 millimeters.

pancake thickness

This parameter is inversely proportional to the body diameter. That is, the larger the diameter, the thinner the part should be. There are tables of such dependence on the Internet, for our case this parameter is 6–10 millimeters. Exact data and calculation methods are not given, but it is quite enough to adhere to the published recommendations.

Chimney section size

The minimum allowable cross section of the chimney is determined by the amount of energy released per hour of operation of the furnace, which is determined by the ratio S = 1.75E (kW / h). Here E \u003d mq, where m is the mass of fuel in the load, q is the specific energy of the fuel burning for an hour, a tabular value. The necessary information is given in the table.

Table: data for calculating the section of the chimney

Having made the necessary calculations, we obtain the minimum required diameter of the chimney for the Bubafonya stove is 150 millimeters.

Air intake pipe size

Preparing for assembly, choosing an installation site

Before starting work on assembling the furnace, it is necessary to prepare the place of its installation. After pouring the foundation, it will take time for the concrete to harden. During this period, you can slowly make the oven itself. The foundation can be used no earlier than 7 days after pouring. On top of the concrete base, you need to lay out a platform of refractory bricks.

A good foundation is essential for the safe operation of the furnace.

When choosing a place to install the furnace, you need to consider the following circumstances:

  • the distance to the nearest walls of combustible material must be more than one meter; if there is no such place, the walls must be additionally protected from heating with an asbestos sheet 8–10 millimeters thick; on top of it, install a sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5–0.7 mm;
  • the chimney in the vertical part must not fall on the supporting beam;
  • if an external chimney is used with an outlet through the wall, the length of the horizontal part should not be more than one meter; otherwise, you need to make a chimney with a slope of 45 degrees.

The preparation of parts and assembly of the furnace is best done indoors, for example, in a garage. This will save the neighbors from unnecessary noise when working with a grinder and from the sparkling of an electric arc. The room must be equipped with exhaust ventilation. If welding is carried out in the open air, the place of work must be protected with protective screens.

Furnace modernization

Improving the parameters of the furnace is associated with an increase in its heat transfer. For this, additional heat exchange surfaces on the furnace body are used. Such parts can be made from various metal profiles, including strips, angles, profile pipes. The choice of material depends on what is available from the leftovers.

Additional metal profile heat exchangers increase the efficiency of the device

Additional heating surfaces can be installed not only on the outer surface, but also inside the furnace, which allows you to intensively heat the air in the room. The negative result of such a decision will be the burnout of oxygen at high temperatures.

Features of the operation of the pyrolysis furnace

The main difference between pyrolysis furnaces is the ability to use a wide variety of fuels. In solid fuel stoves, it is allowed to burn not only traditional combustible substances, but also rubber, plastic and other materials that are categorically not recommended for heating conventional stoves.

This feature is associated with the complete decomposition of the fuel and the secondary combustion of the resulting gases in a separate chamber. After that, only carbon dioxide and water vapor remain in the smoke emissions. There are no harmful emissions into the atmosphere during pyrolysis.

But when using such fuel at the ignition stage, a persistent smell of burnt rubber remains in the room. Therefore, such thermal units must be installed outside residential premises.

Maintenance of pyrolysis ovens

Pyrolysis ovens require much less attention compared to conventional devices. This is due to the fact that there are practically no solid particles that form soot in the flue gases. The presence of water vapor in the exhaust predetermines the formation of condensate on the walls of the chimney. Therefore, it is necessary to install a condensate collector with a drain cock, which must be used regularly as it accumulates.

This statement is true for perfectly balanced furnaces, where complete decomposition of the fuel occurs. But a breakthrough of conventional furnace gases cannot be ruled out, therefore regular inspection of the inner surface of the chimney is necessary. If necessary, it must be cleaned. Inspection is carried out at least twice a year.

On long-burning furnaces, an insulated stainless steel pipe is mandatory.

Waste oil stoves should be cleaned regularly as carbon deposits and slag deposits form in the fuel bowl. In the first combustion chamber of the fuel, normal combustion occurs with the release of solid particles. The design of the furnace allows you to visually monitor the condition of this unit.

With the independent manufacture of a furnace for heating, there are no trifles. Each circumstance must be carefully weighed and thought out. Otherwise, all efforts will be in vain. I wish you success!

Everyone knows from their own experience how uncomfortable it is in winter in a garage without heating. In addition to the thermal insulation of walls, roofs, floors and ceilings, the classic option for obtaining heat in a garage is a stove.

Usually this is a very common "potbelly stove" type unit, welded from pieces of pipes, or used gas cylinder cases.

Gas cylinder stove: pros and cons

There are many other options: welded from sheet iron, made of bricks, and so on. But today we are interested in the most common and functional option - a stove converted from a gas cylinder, since the price tag of a finished cast-iron or steel plate in a store is not suitable for everyone.

Self-made "potbelly stove" from a gas cylinder- the most economical and efficient means of heating the garage.

There can be many options for fuel for "bourgeois": coal, mining, combustible mixtures, but mostly they are natural materials - wood.

You should start with the selection of source material. A 50 liter gas bottle is ideal.

Its dimensions are: 300 mm in diameter, 850 mm in height with a 4 mm metal wall.

These cylinders are commonly used in a wide variety of applications, from cooker fuel to industrial applications.

The main parameters and features of the manufacture of the stove:

  • the chimney is usually made of a pipe with a cross section of 100-125 mm with a wall of 3-4 mm;
  • place it vertically, possibly with a slight deviation, at 25-350;
  • the furnace and ash pan are equipped with doors that must be locked to improve heat transfer during fuel combustion and for fire prevention purposes, in addition, the doors are used to regulate the air supply;

  • it is important that the firebox should have sufficient depth for firewood of a convenient size;
  • grates are needed for laying fuel and separating ash and coal during the combustion process;
  • it is better to weld them from the most durable and heat-resistant material, for example, from reinforcing bars 12-15 mm thick;
  • their length should correspond to the inner diameter of the cylinder body, this grille usually has a mesh or a gap in increments of 10–15 mm;
  • so that your “potbelly stove” on wood warms and heats up properly, it is built on the principle of an ordinary wood-burning stove.

DIY construction

Consider an approximate diagram.

  • The furnace and ash pan are separated by a grate made of refractory material.
  • Firewood is laid on it and set on fire. As it burns, soot and coals are poured into the ash pan.
  • The blower is an important element of the furnace. For better combustion of firewood, the firebox needs a constant supply of air, for which holes are made.
  • An alternative way to provide the combustion process with oxygen is to open the firebox door from time to time.
  • The products of combustion are removed by means of a chimney. If it is laid incorrectly, the opposite effect can be achieved - instead of smoke, a significant part of the heat will go through the pipe, and smoke will be created in the room. Consequently, unnecessarily much firewood will be spent, which will lead to low efficiency.

How does it work?

The principle of operation of our stove:

  1. through the blower, air for combustion is supplied to the furnace;
  2. fuel burns out completely or partially;
  3. through the chimney, the products of combustion are drawn into the atmosphere by natural draft;
  4. it is possible to regulate the process of constant combustion with the necessary heat transfer by ensuring continuous combustion;
  5. the process is adjusted by opening / closing the blower door or the view.

materials

To make the stove, prepare the following materials:

  1. a sheet of metal for the ash pan and hob, if the stove is located horizontally;
  2. chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
  3. materials for fixing grates and supports;
  4. oven doors.

Instruments

For work you will need:

  • welding machine;
  • grinder;
  • electrodes for welding;
  • hammer;
  • tape measure, measuring tape;
  • chisel;
  • pliers;
  • (electric drill;
  • brush with metal bristles for stripping;
  • chalk pencil.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of the stove, you need to prepare a cylinder for work.

  1. We get rid of the contents of the cylinder by fully opening the valve.
  2. When the gas stops hissing, in addition, observing all safety measures, the cylinder can be slightly warmed up.
  3. Mercaptan fragrance (odorant) - it does not have the most pleasant smell, so you need to get rid of it. One way is to completely fill the container with acid-containing liquid (bleach, cleaning agents, etc.) for a while.
  4. Clean the inner surface of the cylinder with a 10% NaCl soda solution.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands

At the same time, it is necessary to select the orientation of the position of the stove (horizontal or vertical).

The difference between these options is the purpose of use.

  • A horizontally located stove is usually more used for cooking.
  • A vertically located stove - for heating due to greater traction and space savings.

For the second reason, this option is more often used in capital garages.

Making a horizontal version:

  • the upper part, where the valve is located, is cut off from the cylinder to install the door (the photo shows another option, where instead of cutting off the upper part, a finished cast-iron door is used);
  • holes for the grate are drilled in the wall of the cylinder, or fasteners are welded inside to equip a removable grate;
  • supports / legs / skids and the like are attached from below;
  • if the grate is drilled in the cylinder body, an ash pan made of sheet metal is attached from below;
  • in the wall of the cylinder, as close to the bottom as possible, a chimney adapter is welded;
  • the chimney pipe must contain the so-called "elbow".

Making a vertical version:

  • the valve is cut off, and a 10-15 cm chimney pipe is welded in its place;
  • 5-7 cm above the bottom, a hole is made for the blower;
  • another 5-7 cm recede from it and cut out an opening for the door;
  • inside the container in the opening between them, a grate is inserted, or fasteners for a removable grate are welded;
  • install doors with latches and supports / legs / skids.

Features of operation, cleaning and repair

Here are some useful tips for the correct and economical operation of the stove.

  • The stove is installed 20-30 cm from the surface on which it stands. This is the optimal gap for space heating.
  • In the chimney, it is recommended to install an overlapping damper (view) to save firewood by reducing/increasing natural draft.
  • You can create a variant of the radiator by welding metal strips / plates to increase the heating area of ​​​​the walls of the stove at a distance of 5-7 mm.
  • It is not necessary to paint the stove, but if an aesthetic appearance is important, only heat-resistant paint should be used.
  • The stove must certainly have a concrete / brick / metal support under it for fire safety purposes.

  • It is advisable to clean the chimney 1-2 times a year before and after the heating season. To reduce heat loss, the chimney is sometimes insulated with non-combustible materials.
  • All joints of the chimney must be made as tight as possible, at least - they should not let harmful combustion products and smoke into the garage.
  • A prefabricated chimney is the optimal solution. The beginning of the assembly must be carried out from its outer part, and not from the potbelly stove. In this case, its dismantling during maintenance, cleaning or repair will be more comfortable.

In many private households there is an old liquefied gas cylinder. Many useful things can be made from this object, for example, a simple heating device.

If there is a desire and a welding machine, then a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands can be made without any problems. Of course, some additional materials will be needed.

A potbelly stove is a primitive version of a metal one. Such a device works extremely simply: firewood is laid in the furnace, they burn out, the furnace body heats up and gives off heat to the surrounding air. Smoke gases are removed through the chimney, and the ash is poured through the grate into the ash pan, which should be cleaned periodically.

They heat a potbelly stove with other combustible materials: diesel fuel, coal, peat, household waste, etc. If desired, on such a stove you can cook quite successfully. This moment should be considered even before the start of the manufacture of the structure in order to make a flat hob.

The potbelly stove is a combustion chamber made of thick metal with a loading door, a chimney, a grate and a blower. You can use an old gas cylinder as a housing

For a potbelly stove, you need to choose a special place, finished with fire-resistant materials. It is desirable that she stand to the side, where no one accidentally touches the body and does not burn herself.

If desired, the upper part of the vertical potbelly stove from an old gas cylinder can be turned into a hob of modest size

Such a metal structure weighs a lot, so there is no question of any mobility of the device. It will be difficult to move the potbelly stove to heat different rooms.

Such stoves are usually used to heat utility rooms in which there is no electricity or where it is supplied intermittently: a garage, a barn, a workshop, etc.

From two gas cylinders connected perpendicularly, you can make an improved version of the potbelly stove, which allows you to save more heat and get high returns when burning fuel

Another problem is the low efficiency, since part of the thermal energy during the combustion of wood literally flies into the chimney. There are various ways to keep warm and modify the potbelly stove a little to make it work more efficiently.

Finally, you need to take care of good ventilation of the room in which the potbelly stove is installed, since such a device burns a large amount of oxygen during operation.

So, a potbelly stove consists of a metal case, the role of which is usually “invited” to an old gas cylinder. In the case it is necessary to make two doors: large and small. The first serves to load fuel, the second is needed as a blower through which air enters the combustion chamber to ensure the combustion process and traction.

To begin with, it is recommended to open the cylinder and bleed off the remaining gas. Of course, this should be done outdoors, not indoors. Then you need to drain the remaining liquid from the cylinder, condensed inside. This substance usually has a pungent and unpleasant smell, so it is best to prepare a small container with a lid for it in advance so that it can be neatly packaged and discarded immediately.

There are no particularly strict requirements in terms of parameters for the design of the potbelly stove. The larger the combustion chamber, the more spacious the room will be able to heat the unit

If the condensate is accidentally spilled on the floor in the room, the specific aroma may remain for a very long time. After all these operations, the cylinder is still not ready for contact with the welding machine, because residual gas vapors remain inside.

It is necessary to fill the cylinder with water to the very top in order to completely expel all the gas from it. After that, the water is drained, now the balloon can be cut without problems.

Stage number 2 - manufacturing and filling the case

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An economical propane stove does not cost too much. The main thing is to make the right drawings. And the material for work will be improvised means. So an old cylinder, metal sheets, fittings and pipes - this is the whole set of necessary products.

A potbelly stove from a gas boiler allows you to burn heat more slowly, processing all the fuel. In this case, it is possible to control the air supply and the combustion process using a special damper. This increases the efficiency and duration of burning. That is why home-made stoves are used in garages, greenhouses, baths, workshops.

Furnace advantages:

  1. Easy assembly. Construction can be done quickly and easily.
  2. independent fuel. The boiler does not need electricity, only solid fuel. In this case, the type of solid fuel does not matter.
  3. The small size allows you to place the design in any corner of the house.
  4. Easy use. The mechanism is simple, firewood burns for a long time and does not require constant monitoring.

But for the operation of the furnace, good ventilation is required, otherwise there will be no need for traction. The heat capacity of the structure is also not encouraging. This is due to the small area of ​​the boiler.

You can increase the heat capacity by equipping a shirt.

Only dry logs should be used for the oven. Of the minuses, the difficulty of cleaning the structure from soot and ash is noted. But the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. At the same time, the equipment of the furnace will not be expensive.

The principle of operation of a stove from a gas cylinder on wood

The design of the gas cylinder is a system of long burning. It consists of three main elements: a furnace, a chimney and a blower. The latter is a special channel, which is located at the bottom of the stove. The blower supplies air to the furnace, controlling combustion. This part is equipped with a door to control the oxygen supply. In addition, soot accumulates in the blower.

There is a firebox above the blower. This element is used to burn fuel. Air enters the chamber through a grate, which is connected to the blower. The firebox is equipped with a door. So firewood is loaded into the stove.

The stove is ignited with the firebox doors open and the blower closed. Unburned parts fall through the grate or fly out through the chimney.

The chimney is an exhaust pipe through which the remains of combustion products exit. A special view is installed in the chimney - a damper. It is used to cover the chimney. Thanks to it, you can slow down the combustion process and increase efficiency.

The main principles of the potbelly stove:

  1. The blower transports air to the furnace;
  2. In the loading chamber, firewood or coal is burned;
  3. Combustion products are eliminated through the chimney;
  4. You can control the intensity of combustion using a damper;
  5. Firewood is placed in the furnace through a special door in the body of the furnace.

The blower and the firebox are considered the main elements and are mounted directly in the gas cylinder body. The chimney can be placed separately. The principle of operation is quite simple, it remains to figure out how to correctly design a potbelly stove.

Types of stoves from a gas cylinder on wood

Potbelly stoves are divided according to the method of installation into vertical and horizontal. Each type has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. It is important to study each option in detail.

The nuances of installing a horizontal furnace:

  1. The construction of such a potbelly stove takes less time;
  2. The stove is installed on a metal sheet so that there are no fire hazards.

The vertical design is compact. It can be placed in the corner, it does not take up much space. The cylinder is installed with the faucet down, so the design has its own differences. The door of the vertical potbelly stove is at the bottom. Less steel will be required for the substrate equipment.

Do-it-yourself gas cylinder stove: preparatory work

To create a stove from a metal cylinder on wood, you will need to use welding. That is why you should choose a room for work in advance. It should be a well-ventilated room with reliable wiring and constant access to electricity.

Immediately it is necessary to prepare all the tools for work. You will need a welding machine and grinder.

The process of performing a potbelly stove can last several days. It would be better if the room with a roof. Good sound insulation is welcome, because it can be noisy during work, and this will not please the neighbors.

Materials for creating a potbelly stove:

  1. Frame. Can be made from an old propane boiler. It is best to choose a large cylinder of 50 liters.
  2. In some cases, the oven may be equipped with legs. For this, sections of pipes, fittings, metal profiles are suitable.
  3. From scraps of fittings, you can make potbelly stove handles. A similar handle will be on the firebox lid.
  4. The door can be made by hand or bought ready-made from cast material. The stove will require 2 doors: for the firebox and the blower. The first one should be bigger.

Separately, it is worth taking the time to prepare the balloon. To begin with, you will need to bleed propane from the tank. The operation is carried out outdoors. Open the feed tap and wait for the hiss to stop.

Next, you need to flush the bottle. The main thing is to get rid of the unpleasant smell, which is used by the supplier to determine the leak. Bleach is used for washing, and then the structure is washed with water.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: installation technology

To begin with, a container for the oven is being prepared. You should take a cylinder of 50 liters. After that, you will need to decide on the design of the potbelly stove: vertical and horizontal.

How to make a horizontal type oven:

  1. First, the upper part with a faucet is cut off from the cylinder.
  2. 4 legs are welded onto the container. The body must be placed horizontally.
  3. A chimney hole is equipped in the upper part of the cylinder. A bent collar made of a 5 cm steel cord is welded onto a round hole.
  4. In the inner space, a grate is installed at a distance of a quarter of its diameter. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall of the cylinder.
  5. Next, a hole is made for the door and a nut with a ball valve is welded.

The finished furnace is mounted in a garage or other room on a special steel sheet. The material should be enough to take up a space of 50 cm more from the door. The vertical design has its own characteristics, but the preparatory work is the same.

The hole for the valve in vertical furnaces is made 10 cm larger. Next, a chimney collar is equipped. The blower is installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the bottom. Equip a firebox above. Grids are installed between the loading hopper and the blower. At the end, install the handles on the doors.

Chimney equipment for a boiler from a gas cylinder

For the operation of the stove, you will need to equip good traction. To do this, the chimney is mounted at a certain height. This place is above the edge of the grate. You will also need to equip a place to collect moisture. You will also need to remove heat from the chimney.

Heat dissipation methods:

  1. Carry out the installation of a horizontal section, observing a slope of 35 degrees. Next, the chimney will need to be turned up and taken out to the street. A heat exchanger is installed on the channel.
  2. Warm air can be transferred by a pipe that exits the oven at an angle. This increases the efficiency and duration of burning.

By equipping a water jacket on the furnace, you can significantly increase the useful properties of the structure. All the features and nuances of installation can be considered on special drawings. In this case, the heat exchanger can also be equipped on the housing.

The circulation of water in the jacket occurs in a forced plan using a pump.

In this case, the diameter of the heat exchanger must be larger than the diameter of the chimney. The open ends of the pipes will have to be welded. When water passes through the shirt, it heats up and gives off heat to the room.

How to make a stove from a gas cylinder (video)

An oxygen or gas cylinder furnace is a fairly simple design. You can assemble such a potbelly stove on your own. The main thing is to stock up on a welding machine and a grinder. Installation should be carried out based on calculations and drawings.

Examples of potbelly stoves from gas cylinders (photo)

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