How to increase a plant's resistance to stress? What to do if problems could not be avoided? How to recognize approaching trouble? Let's talk about everything in order.

The evergreen indoor yucca is endemic to Central America, a region with a hot and dry climate. This could not but affect the formation of the annual cycle of its life activity, one of the stages of which is a period of pronounced dormancy.

When the plant goes into “sleep,” which occurs around the end of October and lasts until February–March, it sharply reduces its consumption of moisture and nutrients and stops growing. Accordingly, the watering and fertilizing regime needs to be adjusted. What if you don't do this? With a high degree of probability, diseases will not be long in coming, and yucca will already need not only preventive measures, but also their treatment.

The health of yucca is determined by a combination of factors such as light, humidity, and temperature. What should they be like during the rest period?

1. There should be a lot of light. If in summer yucca is recommended to receive diffused sunlight and keep it at some distance from the window, then by winter the pots can be moved closer to the light source, for example, as in the photo below.
2. The optimal winter temperature is 10–14° C. It is undesirable for it to fall below 8° C or rise above 25° C.
3. Watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month.
4. Feeding is suspended until spring.

It happens that it is not possible to lower the temperature to optimal parameters. In this case, the earthen ball will dry out faster, and you can water the plant a little more often.

But the greatest harm to yucca comes from a combination of low temperature (for example, the pot is on a cold windowsill) and excessive watering. Mold and pathogenic bacteria will 100% settle in wet, cold soil. And further. Yucca is very afraid of drafts.

By the way, if the “palm tree” is transplanted during this period, it will probably get sick. Dormant roots will not be able to absorb the increased volume of soil and moisture, and this is a direct path to fungal infections.

Common Yucca Diseases

Most diseases of yucca are associated with improper maintenance - waterlogging of the soil, depletion of the soil mixture, and, consequently, weakening of the plant's immunity. But it happens that the infection enters from the outside, for example, with the substrate or other indoor flowers. What problems most often arise with palm trees?

Fungal infections affecting the crown

Several groups of fungi manifest themselves by infecting yucca leaves. All sorts of spots, yellowing, and sores appear on them. If you don’t catch it in time, the spots increase, merge, and eventually the leaves dry out and the plant itself droops. We’ll tell you how to revive it at home using the example of several diseases.

Cercospora is an infection caused by a fungal pathogen (Cercospora)

A favorable environment for this fungus is high humidity. It occurs due to constant overflows, as well as when the grower gets carried away with spraying plants. Round spots of light brown color with a dark border appear on the leaves, which gradually grow, affecting new areas.

Having noticed the disease, first of all remove the affected leaves as much as possible.

Then treat with a systemic fungicide, first a “light” one (Fundazol, Topaz). The number of sprayings is 2–3 times with an interval of 10 days.

And, of course, it is necessary to eliminate the factors that led to the yucca disease - dry the earthen ball, reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.

Brown spot

The causes of the lesion are similar to the previous disease, but are caused by a fungus of a different group. It primarily affects the lower (old) leaves. First, discolored areas appear, then they turn yellow, and after 3–4 months they become brown. At this time, you can notice fungal spores located in the center of the spots.

Control measures are the same as for cercospora. If the disease has progressed, you can use a stronger fungicide, for example, Ridomil Gold.

Leaf marginal necrosis

This fungal infection is diagnosed by gray-brown spots affecting the edges of the leaf blade. Sometimes the spot can be “wet” and have a pronounced concentric shape.

If the speck is small, the sheet can not be removed, but only the diseased area can be cut out, capturing part of the healthy tissue. To disinfect the wound, treat the edges with crushed activated carbon.

After the “operation”, spray the yucca with a fungicide solution.

Fusarium rot

This is a dangerous fungal infection that leads to leaf rot. They are usually affected at the base and rot completely.

To combat fusarium fungus, systemic fungicides are used, such as Fundazol, Previkur, Profit. If the damage is severe, it is better to throw away the plant along with the pot.

To ensure effective control of diseases and pests, the crown, trunk and, of course, the soil are sprayed. Sometimes it is recommended to remove the top layer of substrate contaminated with fungal spores or insect larvae. In case of fungal diseases, to be on the safe side, the plant is not only sprayed, but also watered several times with a weak solution of fungicide.

Stem rot

If the loss of leaves is a temporary problem, new ones will grow after treatment, then everything is not so simple with the trunk. This is the main artery through which food flows; if it dies, the yucca will also die.

The trunk affected by rot becomes soft, brown ulcers appear on it, from which a watery substance oozes.

Only surgical intervention can save the plant. We definitely cut out the softened part of the trunk to healthy tissue. Further actions depend on what is left of the palm tree.

If this is the top, the cut is dried, treated with a growth stimulator (according to the instructions) and tried to root. This can be done in water or in a light substrate of peat and perlite.

Living root with part of the trunk? Wonderful! Treat the cut with activated or crushed charcoal and place in a bright, warm place. Apply Carbendazim fungicide solution to kill fungus in the soil. If everything is in order, the yucca will expel the shoots from the axillary buds.

Problems with roots

Often on forums you can “hear” the cry of the soul: “Yucca is dying, what to do?” Moreover, outwardly everything looks normal - no obvious diseases, no pests, but the plant is withering away. In such situations, the problem is most likely in the roots.

Root rot is a nightmare for succulents, which includes yucca. You can see it only when replanting the plant. Therefore, if you see that the plant is withering for no apparent reason, try to carefully remove it from the pot and inspect the roots. If they are dark and soft, it is root rot. Whether it will be possible to revive the yucca depends on the extent of the damage.

• If the roots have rotted completely, all that remains is to throw away the flower.
• Less than a third of diseased roots? Cut off anything suspicious and transplant the yucca into a new container with fresh substrate. After planting, water it with a fungicide solution and send the “sick” one to a warm and bright place.
• If more than half of the roots are damaged, but not all, you can try to save the plant. They need to be washed under the tap, and then all soft and darkened pieces should be cut off. Next, we plant, water with a fungicide solution, and place in the light. We are waiting for the result.

The reanimated plant should not be watered until you are sure that it has taken root and has begun to grow.

Yucca doesn't bloom

Some gardeners are concerned about the question of why yucca does not bloom; they even tend to attribute the problem to illness or improper maintenance. This is not entirely true.

The fact is that yucca almost never blooms in captivity. This is due to the fact that the conditions of its maintenance are far from the natural environment, the dormant period is relative, which means that the flower buds do not have time to ripen. And in natural conditions only adult “palm trees” bloom. Therefore, if the yucca is more than 10 years old and you provide it with peace in winter, there is a chance, although small, that it will throw out inflorescences with beautiful white bells.

You need to know the enemy by sight

In addition to diseases, some insects are enemies of yucca. Pests rarely attack a plant with strong immunity, but diseased, depleted specimens often become their target. Let's consider who can live with your pet.

Mealybug

Most often it affects a palm tree in the off-season, when the plant experiences stress from changes in temperature. Externally, mealybugs look like small cotton balls; if you crush the fluffy ball, bloody discharge appears. Its harm is enormous, since it sucks juice from leaves and branches and multiplies very quickly.

If you notice a mealybug infestation, thoroughly wipe the yucca leaves with a sponge dipped in warm, soapy water, removing all visible traces of the pest. After this, treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara, Calypso, Fitoverm, etc.). The procedure must be repeated 3-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.

Shchitovka

Another dangerous enemy of yucca is the scale insect. A tiny insect, similar to a small turtle, is generally mistaken by some for a growth on the leaves, since it is motionless. Having firmly attached itself to a leaf blade or cuttings, the scale insect sucks out the juices of the plant. The first sign of a dangerous neighborhood is a sticky, shiny discharge.

Not only the scale insect itself harms the flower, but also the sticky substance. It clogs the pores of living tissue, creating favorable conditions for fungal infections.

The “shell” of the scale insect is so dense that it is difficult to kill it even with chemicals. First you need to remove adult individuals mechanically - with a swab moistened with a concentrated soap solution or vodka, clean the leaves and stems of brown “growths”. Remove the top layer of soil.

After this, treat the plant with an insecticide. As with mealybugs, repeat the procedure at least 3 times.

Spider mite

Spider mites can settle on weakened plants. First, light “grains” appear on the back of the sheet, and then a thin web appears.

To combat the pest, you will need an insecticide with an acaricidal effect - Fitoverm, Vertimek.

In addition to diseases and pests, there may be other reasons why yucca leaves turn yellow -.

To increase the plant’s resistance to stress, do not neglect feeding in the summer - a balanced diet will help build strong immunity. In winter, give the yucca a rest and gain strength for the new season. Proper care is the best disease prevention.

A video about caring for yucca will help you avoid many problems.

Yucca is an unpretentious exotic indoor plant from the Agave family with weakly branching shoots and fluffy caps of long light green leaves. With age or if the rules of flower care are violated, the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, then dry out and fall off. If the reason for this behavior of the plant is not identified and eliminated in time, it may die. Experienced gardeners identify several main reasons for the negative change in the appearance of yucca. Beginners in indoor floriculture will be able to avoid problems with their pets if they take these factors into account when keeping them.

The main reasons why yucca leaves turn yellow and dry

Lack of lighting

This reason is considered the most common, especially in the autumn, when the length of daylight hours is significantly reduced and indoor plants lack natural light. On the darkest and cloudiest days between September and February, bright diffuse lighting can be created using phytolamps or other additional lighting. The length of artificial daylight should last at least ten to twelve hours a day. With such daily lighting, the process of yellowing and dying of the leaf part of the yucca will stop and very quickly stop completely.

Excess lighting

Excess light, or rather direct sunlight, very easily damages yucca leaves, causing thermal burns. This reason is relevant in the spring and summer months, when the flower is grown on a windowsill on the south side of the house and during the daytime the sun's rays are directly directed at the delicate indoor plant. In natural conditions, yucca tolerates tropical and subtropical climates with maximum sun during the day. But as a houseplant, it is much more vulnerable and therefore direct sunlight leaves its yellow marks on the leaves of the indoor plant. You can protect the flower with light translucent shading and gradual accustoming to fresh air (on the balcony or open veranda).

Violation of watering rules

The individual characteristics of yucca include its adaptability to drought; this must be taken into account when caring for it. The thick trunk of the plant accumulates a lot of moisture (like succulents and cacti), and the dense surface layer of the leaves will protect them from rapid loss of moisture. But insufficient volume and frequency of watering (especially in summer) will lead to withering of the leaf part and their gradual death. Yucca does not like lack of moisture. The underground part of the flower does not tolerate excess moisture in the soil and regular overflow of irrigation water. Yellow, drooping and drying leaves can signal the beginning of rotting of the root part of the plant.

It is very important to find a middle ground in this process. The next watering should be carried out only when the soil mixture in the flower pot dries out by about fifty percent or a little more. Water for irrigation must be warm (with a temperature of 22 to 25 degrees Celsius), and must be purified or settled. When watering with cold tap water, the base of the stem may begin to rot, and then the root part.

A plant that is sick from overwatering can be saved only by transplanting it into a new substrate. The plant must be carefully removed from the flower pot, the roots must be thoroughly washed, and all rotten parts of the leaves and roots must be removed. After trimming diseased roots, it is recommended to treat the cut areas with activated carbon or charcoal powder. After this, the indoor plant is planted in a new container with fresh soil. If the root part is completely damaged and there is nothing left to save, then you can cut off the top of the plant and root it.

Dry air for yucca is normal throughout the year, except for the heating season. During this period, the tips of the leaves dry out greatly, the plant requires periodic additional moisture by spraying. The water should be soft and not cold. Favorable time for water procedures is early morning or evening after sunset. Spraying during the day in direct sunlight will leave spots on the leaves after droplets of water - burns.

Failure to comply with temperature conditions

If the leaves on a houseplant begin to curl and the tips of the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an incorrect temperature regime. Yucca prefers a constant moderate temperature of 20 to 25 degrees. Sudden changes in temperature up or down, as well as cold drafts, negatively affect the appearance of the plant and its further growth and development. At low or high temperatures, the plant may completely turn yellow and dry out.

Failure to comply with transplant rules

Yucca reacts very painfully to transplants, since its root system is easily damaged and then the whole plant begins to hurt. This manifests itself in yellowing and drying of the leaf mass. It is recommended to replant yucca only together with a lump of earth. The transshipment method reduces the risk of injury to the roots.

When moving a container with a flower to a new place, to a new room and during long-term transportation, the plant experiences severe stress and adapts to new conditions for a long time. At this time, yellowing, wilting and drying of the leaves is possible. This is explained by changes in living conditions, which include temperature, lighting direction, humidity level, and sometimes damage to the root system when moving.

The appearance of pests

The main pests of yucca are scale insects, spider mites and aphids. The invasion of these pests can only be stopped with special chemicals (for example, Fitoverm, Aktara, Aktellik). They are sprayed or sprayed directly onto insect habitats. Unfortunately, yellowed leaves will not recover after the pests have been destroyed. If there are healthy roots, the plant will continue to develop, but if they are damaged, it is almost impossible to save the flower.

Natural causes

Each plant ages over time, and the death of several of its leaves in the lower part is considered a normal natural process that should not worry gardeners. It is quite natural that sometimes one or two lower leaves begin to turn yellow and soon dry up. Flower lovers need to help the plant remove these leaves in time, since the yucca will not be able to get rid of them on its own. It is recommended to take the yellowed leaf by the tip and pull it downwards, as if removing the peel.

Knowing the main reasons for negative changes in the appearance of a houseplant, it will be easier for beginners to care for it and create the necessary conditions for it.

They are mainly related with non-compliance with the watering regime Yucca

Watering in winter during the dormant period has an extremely detrimental effect. Excessive dryness of the room also contributes to weakening of the plant.

Why does the palm tree turn yellow and the leaves and their tips fall off?

Why do yucca leaves droop? What should you do if, indoors, the lower leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off? When a plant begins to turn yellow, this does not mean that the reason lies in the disease.

It could be due to natural process ridding a false palm tree of foliage. This is necessary for further active growth.

In the case where it is the lower foliage that is shed, this may mean that excessive or insufficient hydration. Find out the recommendations on how to properly water a false palm tree and correct the situation.

Well, if the roots were not damaged, then there is a better chance of resuscitating the yucca.

Brown spots on leaves

If When leaves fall, they have yellow spots, which then become oval in shape and change color to brown, this means that the plant is affected by brown spotting.

To cure it, you need to figure out whether you cared for the yucca correctly, and then treat it.

Causes of drying out

Why do yucca leaves turn yellow and dry? What to do to prevent this from happening? How to save? When there's not enough light, the plant also appears yellow at the tips of its leaves and they begin to dry out.

For the normal process of photosynthesis, it is advisable to provide it with bright lighting with scattered rays, but in no case direct, so as not to provoke the appearance of burns.

Impact of temperature

An alarming signal when growing a false palm tree at home is if Yucca leaves curl.

Low temperatures have a detrimental effect on the life of the plant, because it comes from the subtropics and absolutely cannot stand the cold.

Under the influence of low temperatures the leaves at the edges become brownish and gradually curl up. There are times when the temperature drops at night and the sensitive yucca freezes overnight. In winter, it is better to remove it from the windowsill in the evening until the morning, until it gets warmer.

With severe hypothermia, foliage can fall off en masse. The false palm tree does not tolerate drafts well. It is better to take care in advance that the flower is warm and cozy, especially in winter. Read how to insulate yucca for the winter.

Pests

false palm quite disease resistant and is rarely attacked by pests. But if the disease has already affected the foliage or stem, it is better to immediately take the necessary measures.

To do this, it is advisable to know what pests we can deal with in order to respond in time and cure the plant, and not throw away the yucca and the pot from under it.

Spider mite

Appears when living conditions are not suitable for the plant and it weakens - from excessive dry air or due to heat. It settles on the back side of the leaves and feeds on its juices. By sucking the juice from the false palm tree, it makes it weaker and contributes to wilting, because the flower then receives almost no nutrients.

Light spots and yellowness appear on the affected foliage; they are entwined with a thin web, causing the yucca to gradually dry out.

It is quite difficult to see the spider mite itself on the leaf, but from the above signs you can easily determine that it is the one that is infecting the plant.

Shield aphid or scale insect

It mainly affects plants of the agave genus, including yucca. She settles on the foliage. Dangerous because reproduces rapidly and is well adapted to the home microclimate.

At the early stage of the disease, it is problematic to notice shield aphids on the plant. When it becomes an adult, it is covered with a waxy shield. The larvae mature underneath it.

Damaged plant stops growing and withers. This is caused by the fact that the scale insect begins to eat the leaves, and if the necessary measures to eliminate it are not taken in time, the false palm tree will die.

How to save a palm tree from death?

How to revive yucca? A timely response will allow the yucca to be revived. It is important to know what to do if it is affected by fungal diseases or pests.

Resuscitation from fungal diseases

If the problem is fungi or bacteria, get rid of affected areas of the plant, and treat healthy foliage with a systemic fungicide. We reduce watering and do not spray at all.

These are productive measures for the first phase of the disease. When the disease is already actively progressing, the plant cannot be helped. It needs to be thrown away. We also throw away the pot from under the dead flower.

Fighting spider mites

Start spraying and rinsing the foliage, mainly its reverse side with a low concentrated solution of tobacco, onion peel or chamomile infusion, garlic infusion. We wash the leaf, starting from the stem and ending with the edge of the leaf. We repeat the procedure until the tick is completely destroyed.

Rescue from scale insects

The best assistant will be laundry soap.

Dip a cotton swab or cloth into its solution, wring it lightly and use it to remove pests.

At the same time, we spray the larvae with a solution of tobacco mixed with kerosene or alcohol.

You can use store bought ones insecticides– fitoverm, actellikom.

If the yucca has suffered from improper care

You can try to revive the plant. First of all change the soil. We clean the root system from dead and rotten areas. We disinfect the roots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, and then dry them and replant them in new soil. No earlier than 15 days later it is allowed to feed the false palm tree.

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Yucca grows in nature in conditions of low air humidity, relatively little precipitation and high light levels. Therefore, when growing a plant in a room, we must create conditions close to natural.

The plant will do well in bright and warm rooms. Optimum temperature + 20-25 degrees. A drop in temperature to +10-14 degrees, especially in one day, most often leads to the death of the plant. Yucca does not tolerate direct sunlight well If your room is oriented to the south, it is better to place the plant in the back of the room. Yucca is grown in well drained substrate: drainage made of expanded clay, fine gravel or broken brick must be poured onto the bottom of the pot. It is better to choose medium earthen mixtures. If the mixture is made of peat, then it must be neutralized to neutral pH values ​​(6.0-6.5). It is a good idea to add coarse sand (up to 30% by volume) to such a mixture. It is better to replant yucca in April - August. Watering in both winter and summer is moderate (see). Most types of yucca sensitive to dry air , so they should be regularly sprayed with cold boiled water from a fine spray bottle or place the pot with the plant in a container with a moistened layer of gravel. And the most common types in apartments Yucca elephantipes and Yucca aloifolia spray NOT need to. Feed from April to November once every two weeks. Plants respond well to feeding with infusion of mullein, horse manure, and leaf humus. Belarusians are lucky - we have the fertilizer "Peat Oxidate" (a product of peat processing), which is PERFECT for feeding any indoor plants and, especially, yuccas. At worst, you can feed them with complex mineral fertilizers. Feed carefully diluted solutions. The best results are obtained by foliar feeding (the leaves of the plant are sprayed from the underside with a diluted solution). All types of yucca should keep away from drafts and chapping during the cold season.

Your questions:

Question:
Of the three apical shoots of the yucca, two rotted and had to be removed. What to do with the places where they were? The third shoot produces weak, thin, drooping light green leaves. What to do to help the plant?

Yucca bends over. I bought it and transplanted it immediately. And now she's bending over. The leaves fall, the trunk below becomes softer. Tell me what can be done?

Answer:
Yucca DIE from waterlogging of the soil. The plant is watered in a day or two after the top layer of soil dries by 5cm. deep down.
And your plant is already rotting. It will not be possible to save him entirely. During the growth of the moon (see), use a sharp knife or blade to cut off the healthy top of the plant, sprinkle the wound with crushed coal (bought at the pharmacy). Dry the top for 2 hours (leave it in the air) and place it in a container with cold boiled water until roots appear. When yucca takes root on the cuttings, the lower leaves rot and an unpleasant odor appears. Decaying leaves must be removed, the water must be changed occasionally, it is important that stem cuttings didn't rot. After the roots appear, plant the cuttings in the ground.

Question:
Literally in a short period of time, Yucca’s trunk turned black, I realized that I had simply overwatered her. Transplanted. The leaves gradually began to turn black. Is there really nothing that can be done and she will die?

Answer:
If several leaves and part of the trunk remain light in color and feel hard and elastic to the touch, then you can try to grow new roots. Yucca can grow new roots in two ways. On the living part of the stem, 10-15 cm above the rotten part and not lower than 60 cm from the top, the bark is removed with a sharp knife in a ring 0.5 cm wide. The place where the bark was removed is tied with wet sphagnum moss and, on top, with plastic film so that the moisture from the moss does not evaporate. The moss should be kept constantly moist and, if necessary, moistened with a spray bottle. After 2-3 weeks, new roots usually appear above the area where the bark was removed. The roots are grown for another two weeks without removing the moss and film. When the roots grow and branch, the upper part of the plant with new roots is cut off below the point where the bark was removed. The cut is sprinkled with crushed coal, slightly dried for several minutes and planted in new soil, in a new pot. The new soil should consist of garden or humus soil and coarse sand, at least 25% of the total soil volume. The other method is simpler, but also more risky. Using a sharp knife, cut off the living part of the plant from the rotting part, trying to ensure that the living cutting is not longer than 30 cm. The cut is sprinkled with crushed coal, dried a little and planted in wet sand, covering the top with a large jar or setting up a greenhouse (stuck vertically into the sand in a pot with the cutting 3 -4 thin sticks, so that they are higher than the cutting itself, and cover the pot with the cutting with plastic wrap, tying it on the pot). The plant takes root in a month and a half, if you do not over-moisten the soil, but also do not let it dry out.

Question:
How to cut off the top of a yucca so that shoots come out of the trunk and there are several tops. The trunk is 30 cm, the leaves have all fallen off from below, the crown is green.

Answer:
So that the plant has several tops , choose a young well-rooted plant with a height of at least 30 cm, the taller the plant, the better. In spring or early summer, during the growth of the moon (see), the top of the plant is cut off with a sharp knife or blade (5 - 10 cm, but leaves should remain on the stem and the more the better), the wound is sprinkled with crushed coal (bought at the pharmacy) . The top can be rooted, and the remaining stem grows new tops.

Question:
Yucca has stopped growing. The leaves droop, the tips dry out and it looks clearly withering. There is no draft, but she may be very hot due to the heating. I already bought her food. I will water more often now. Well, what else can I do to help her?

Answer:
While the plant is sick IT IS FORBIDDEN feed. Need to water not more often, but correctly:
The plant is watered abundantly a day or two after the top layer of soil has dried, to a depth of about 5 cm. At temperatures above +18 degrees, the plant should be watered about once a week, and at least 2-2 times per 10 liters of soil at a time. 5 liters of settled water at room temperature. The soil should have time to dry out between waterings.

Question:
Yucca leaves turn yellow, curl and dry out. The plant is clearly dying. I tried to give fertilizer - it didn’t help. Please tell me what to do.

Answer:
The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out from insufficient or irregular watering, or from a draft.
If the plant dies - Touch the trunk:
If it is soft, then it rots and the plant needs to be cut.
If it is hard, then water the plant properly. A lot (of water), but rarely (in time).

Question:
They gave me a Yucca, the room is not very well lit, the temperature is 22 on average, I transplanted it into a larger pot, added drainage, watered it once a week, but it began to dry out, the leaves curled up and turned yellow, maybe I should buy some fertilizer, it would be a pity if it died. Do I need to spray the top leaves in the evening?

Answer:
The leaves curl into a tube due to waterlogging, but the same effect can be due to lack of light. With yucca this is more often due to waterlogging of the soil. The plant is watered a day or two after the top layer of soil dries. There is no need to feed the plant until April. There is no need to spray the leaves, because... In nature, yuccas grow in fairly dry places.

Question:
A few days ago I noticed that some of the leaves of two yuccas had turned black. The trunk is in normal shape, there are healthy leaves next to the blackened ones. Please advise what needs to be done, whether it is possible to simply remove the diseased leaves.

Answer:
wet, then cut off the diseased leaves, water the plant moderately (see) and do not place it in a draft.
If the blackened areas of the leaves feel dry, then move the plant closer to the light and water moderately.

Question:
A week ago I transplanted a 4-year-old Yucca. I planted it in a pot with a diameter of 40 cm, but the worst thing was that during replanting I removed a lot of roots, it seemed that they were rotten, so after trimming they looked like a hedgehog. I also discovered a hollow-like depression in the center of the root system. Over the course of a week, the leaves sank and the lower ones dried out, and today one of the large shoots sank to the bottom. What should I do???

Answer:
Yes, your Yucca is dying. If she survives, it will be a miracle! When transplanting you need SAVE MAXIMUM earthen lump around the roots - produce TRANSHIPMENT, not a transplant. Rotten roots are very soft and spread under your fingers, and they give off a rotten smell - so remove them. Healthy roots can be of any color and shape (with “hollows”, “legs and arms”) - if you doubt that the root is rotten, then leave everything as is.

What should I do???
Go light a candle... Maybe a miracle will happen.
Cut it - the whole Yucca will not survive, but it can with cuttings.

Question:
I bought a yucca and didn’t notice that its top seemed to be coated with something black. What is this and what should I do about it?

Answer:
If a solid trunk is coated, then it’s just putty and you don’t need to do anything. If the leaves are coated, you need to wipe it off.

Very often, when growing yucca, gardeners are faced with yellowing and falling of the leaves of this plant. Its leaves dry out at the tips, and then the leaf blades die off completely.

If this happens to the 2-3 lower leaves, a natural process of growth and development of the plant is observed.

But if it is rapidly losing leaf mass, it is necessary to look for the reason in improper care of this palm tree.

Yucca can lose leaves due to poor or abundant watering, too dry air and insufficient lighting. Also, the leaves may dry out and turn yellow if the plant is damaged by pests.

Soil drying out

In winter, when the yucca is at rest, complete drying out of the earthen coma will not harm the plant. But in the summer, when the palm tree grows intensively, the soil in a pot with yucca should not dry out to a depth of more than 5 cm.

However, inexperienced gardeners who know the dangers of waterlogging can water their plants very rarely. At the same time, the soil regularly dries out, which affects the appearance of the plant: the leaves dry out and turn yellow, starting from the bottom, and then fall off.

It should be remembered that yucca is not a cactus that is not afraid of the soil drying out. Its roots are different from the root system of succulents. Frequent drying out of the soil can be detrimental to the plant..

Waterlogging of the soil

Also, do not allow the soil to become waterlogged and become stagnant in the pot. Yucca loves moderate watering, so any waterlogging can cause root rot, which is very difficult to combat.

In the early stages of the disease, it will help to add new soil after cutting off all diseased roots and treating the sections with activated carbon.

If the rotting has spread to the trunk of the plant, you can root the upper part of the palm tree or take cuttings from healthy branches.

Waterlogging of yucca soil at low temperatures is especially dangerous..

When at rest, the plant consumes almost no water; it needs to be watered very lightly so that the soil remains slightly moist. During this period, even a single abundant watering leads to root rot.

In summer, watering yucca with cold water can lead to the onset of disease. To prevent this from happening, you need to water only with water whose temperature is 2-3 degrees higher than the room temperature.

Low humidity

If the plant is kept at room temperature in a heated room in winter, its leaves may dry out due to lack of moisture in the air.

Yucca tolerates low humidity well, but if the air is very dry and the plant is located near heating devices, then even such an unpretentious plant can begin to turn yellow.

During the cold period, you must first of all move the yucca away from the heating radiators.. Usually this is enough for its leaves to stop drying and turning yellow. You can artificially humidify the air near the plant by placing it in a tray with damp sand, expanded clay or moss.

Low light

Often in winter the plant experiences a lack of lighting. During the rest period, this cannot harm him much. But if yucca is kept at room temperature even in winter, then during this period it continues to grow. If it doesn’t have enough light, it stretches out, its shoots become thinner, and its leaves turn yellow and droop.

To prevent the yucca from losing its decorative effect and weakening in winter, you need to move it to the most illuminated southern window.

Moving the yucca to a south window is not enough, and to increase daylight hours, you need to provide the yucca with additional electric lighting.

Pests

Pests can cause leaves to dry out or turn yellow.