Growing different varieties of garlic in the Urals.  When to plant garlic for the winter in the Urals When to plant garlic in the Urals

If you are interested in the question of when to plant garlic in the Urals before winter, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of astrologers. Many summer residents use the Lunar calendar. It contains basic information about the location of the Moon. If you plant crops only on favorable days, you will be able to get a good harvest and get the maximum benefit from your work.

To find out before winter in 2018 in the Urals, you need to look at the Lunar calendar. In the northern regions, planting work begins in September. All basic information is contained in table No. 1.

Table No. 1

If planting was not completed in September, you can continue work in October. This month will also be good days for planting. Table No. 2 contains information as of October 2018.

Note!

The New Moon days in September and October coincide. During this period, it is forbidden to work with plants; you will not be able to get a positive result.

Table No. 2

Rules for planting garlic

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to observe not only the sowing time, but also adhere to a certain technology for growing the crop. The lunar calendar will tell you when you can do this or that work, but we must not forget about natural and climatic conditions. Winter garlic must be planted 2 weeks before frost. In addition, seed and soil should be prepared.

Preparing the Garlic

Before planting, the seed material must be prepared. To do this, follow these steps:

1. We break the head into cloves.
2. We inspect them and select only healthy and large specimens for planting.
3. Before planting onions and garlic, we disinfect them. Soak the cloves for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.

Soil preparation

The site must be prepared in advance. To do this, you need to dig up the ground, remove all vegetation and debris.

Advice!

You can use a shovel or cultivator to cultivate the soil.

Planting work

As soon as all preparatory activities have been completed, it is necessary to begin planting the crop. The photo will make the process more clear. Planting work consists of the following:

1. Using a rake we draw a straight line.
2. We take a shovel and make small indentations.
3. Plant garlic in 3 grooves. If desired, you can make more of them.
4. Leave the distance between the cloves approximately 10 cm, the planting depth should not be more than 8 cm.
5. Place the garlic with its roots in the recess and lightly sprinkle with soil.
6. Compact the soil using a rake.

Advice!

To prevent the cloves from rotting, sprinkle them with sand on top; 1 hole will require about 1 tsp. The sand will act as drainage.

Many summer residents plant garlic cloves. This method is simpler and more accessible. In addition, it allows you to quickly harvest a good harvest.

How to plant garlic bulbs

When to plant garlic bulbs before winter is a fairly popular question. Preparatory work should begin in early autumn. The growing process consists of the following procedures:

• preparing beds;
• sowing seeds;
• crop care;
• harvesting.

Site preparation

The bed in which the garlic will grow must be prepared in advance. The culture prefers to grow in a sunny, open area. It is advisable to avoid lowlands.

First of all, the garden bed needs to be cleared of weeds and debris. The soil should be dug up and fertilized.

For 1 sq. m. requires 7 kg of humus, 300 g of ash, 50 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate. Next, the soil needs to be leveled.

Planting work

Summer residents distinguish 2 methods of reproduction:

1. With a one-tooth transplant. The option is as follows: in the first year, the bulbs are planted, harvested in the summer, and planted again in the fall.
2. Without transplantation single tooth. The main difference from the previous method is that the seeds do not need to be replanted. This is how they grow in the garden beds.

Planting garlic before winter

You need to start planting in the fall, a month before the onset of frost. By this time, the bulbs will already be able to take root and will not germinate. When determining the timing of planting crops, it is necessary to take into account natural and climatic conditions. The second half of September - early October is the most preferred time.

Planting process

The process of planting bulbs is simple. Even a novice summer resident can cope with the task. Planting work consists of the following activities.

Garlic is grown in almost every garden. Of course, this healthy and tasty root vegetable is one of the most beloved in the Urals. What are the timing for planting and harvesting garlic in this region, and how to properly care for it? Let's look at this in more detail.

Winter or spring

All experienced gardeners are well aware that the best time to plant garlic is in the fall. In this case, it germinates faster, grows larger and is stored better. Ural summer residents are no exception in this regard. Therefore, further we will talk about exactly how the climate in the Urals is sharply continental. This means that it is cold here in winter and very hot in summer. Therefore, it is important to plant the cloves within a strictly defined time frame.

Together we plant garlic in the fall. Timing, soil preparation

Plant garlic no earlier than three weeks before the onset of frost. In the Urals it is the middle or end of October. Compliance with this condition is actually very important. If garlic is planted too late, the roots simply will not have time to strengthen, which will certainly affect the yield. You can even navigate the deadline simply by weather conditions. Some Ural gardeners plant garlic immediately after the first snow has passed. After it melts, it will take about three weeks before the real frosts. The garlic bed is traditionally dug up several weeks before planting. This is necessary so that the soil has time to shrink. Therefore, it needs to be prepared somewhere in mid-to-late September.

Planting dates according to the lunar calendar

Many gardeners prefer to learn about this from the lunar calendar. It is quite possible that the phases of the Earth's satellite actually somehow influence plant growth. Since this year everyone has already planted garlic a long time ago, we will give a deadline for next year. In 2015, according to the lunar calendar, winter garlic will need to be planted either on October 4-5, or from 12 to 15.

Planting garlic before winter according to the lunar calendar for the Southern Urals will most likely be optimal in the second term, for the Middle Urals - in the first.

Soil preparation

So, let's plant garlic before winter. First, let's talk about how to properly prepare the soil. In terms of soil quality, garlic is a very fastidious plant. Therefore, the bed needs to be fertilized. To do this, add half a bucket of humus and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride and superphosphate per square meter. It is best to raise the bed slightly above the ground. Garlic is a plant that absolutely cannot tolerate soil acidity. In such areas, the soil must be limed. In this case, the garlic will grow much larger and will be stored much better.

An unconventional way to prepare the soil

The method discussed above is traditional and practiced by most summer residents. However, recently many amateur gardeners are abandoning it. In particular, an experienced gardener, the author of the book “How to Effortlessly Receive High Yields from Your Garden Plot,” advises preparing beds without digging up the soil. He says that it needs to be lifted with a flat cutter. In his opinion, this can significantly increase the yield of a plant such as garlic (in the Urals and in any other region). The fact is that, in cross-section, any soil represents a kind of “pie”, in each layer of which bacteria of a strictly defined variety live. The roots of plants, and garlic in particular, are designed in such a way that each part of them is responsible for the absorption of nutrients formed as a result of the activity of bacteria of the corresponding variety. By digging up the soil, the gardener simply violates the structure of the “pie” created by nature itself. Which, in turn, leads to a significant decrease in yield.

Preparation of seed material

Planting garlic in the fall in the Urals (as in other regions) will be successful only if the seed is selected correctly. It is best to plant it with large or medium-sized teeth. Before storing for drying, the heads are carefully inspected. Anything suspicious - rotten, damaged by insects or diseased - is thrown away.

Let's plant garlic before winter: rules for planting cloves

When planting, it is important to prevent the plants from becoming too crowded. The holes are made four centimeters deep, at a distance of 20 cm in a row and 25 centimeters between rows. When using this scheme, you are guaranteed to get very large and light garlic. If there is not enough space on the site, you can plant plants more often. In this case, the row spacing is also made 25 cm wide, and about ten centimeters of free soil are left between the plants.

After the bed is mulched, it needs to be watered thoroughly. Just before frost, it should be covered with a layer of 10-15 centimeters of fallen leaves. In the spring (as soon as the soil warms up), this layer is removed with a rake. Usually you can already see sprouted garlic feathers underneath it.

Loosening and watering

Thus, we have found out how garlic is planted in the fall in the Urals. Now let's talk about how to properly care for it. Garlic should be watered approximately once every ten days in May, June and early July. This plant does not tolerate excess moisture at all. After watering, the bed should be carefully inspected. If the tops of some of the garlic are bare, they should be covered with soil. You can reduce the frequency of watering by mulching the bed with a two-centimeter layer of humus. In this case, you don’t even need to carry out loosening. The last procedure for garlic is not advisable at all. The fact is that when loosening, the upper roots of the plant are definitely damaged. As a result, it begins to lag behind in development. If we turn to the lunar calendar, then it is especially undesirable to perform loosening on a new moon. That is, May 18, June 16 and July 16.

Stop watering the plants approximately three weeks before harvest. In the Urals, this is approximately July 25-30, since root crops ripen around July 15.

How to fertilize garlic

It will not be successful if fertilizing is done incorrectly. Garlic is fertilized for the first time in the spring, a week after the snow melts. The soil is watered with a urea solution (1 tbsp per bucket of water). The consumption is 2-3 liters per 1 m2. The next feeding is done after two weeks. In this case, use nitrophoska in the amount of 2 tbsp. l. per bucket of water, two to three liters per 1 m2. The third feeding is done in mid-June. The soil is watered with a solution of superphosphate (2 tablespoons per bucket, 4 liters per 1 m2.)

Fertilizer application is only necessary if the soil on the site is poor. In oily soils, chemicals can be replaced by bacteria. To ensure their vital functions, additional compost is added to the bed. It is believed that this method can increase productivity.

According to the lunar calendar, it is best to apply fertilizer to plants in 2015 from April 5 to 12 and from April 18 to 26, from May 5 to 11 and from May 19 to 25, from June 3 to 9 and from June 16 to 24.

When to Harvest

Thus, we have found out when to plant winter garlic. Now let's take a closer look at the timing of the harvest. Everyone knows that garlic shoots arrows. They definitely need to be removed. The fact is that they take a lot of nutrients. If you leave them untouched, the yield of garlic will drop greatly, and the heads themselves will grow small. The arrows are pinched off at a height of 10 cm from the soil level. One or two are worth keeping.

Subsequently, from the developed bulbs it will be possible to grow single-clove garlic. In addition, their development can be used to judge the timing of harvest. Root crops are dug up immediately after the film covering the bulbs bursts. This deadline, like the planting time in the fall, should not be missed under any circumstances. Harvesting garlic on time means ensuring its 100% keeping quality. In overripe garlic, the film on the head breaks and the cloves crumble. Such fruits will not be stored for long. The cloves will simply dry out after a while.

from bulbs

Planting garlic in the fall in the Urals can be done not only with cloves, but also with bulbs. This method is good because it helps prevent the degeneration of the culture. In order to get bulbs, you need to leave arrows on several bushes. They are torn off immediately after the spirals of the arrows are completely straightened. Next, the material is tied into bundles and hung to ripen in the attic. The bulbs are separated from the arrows immediately after the stem dries. They need to be planted in the soil in the Urals in mid-October, just like cloves.

Next year they will grow into one-toothed garlic. In July they are dug up and laid out to dry, and in October they are planted again in the soil. From this material, at the end of the second year, it will also be possible to obtain single-prongs, but of much larger sizes. In the third year, unusually large heads of varietal garlic grow from them. Thus, by growing garlic from cloves and bulbs at the same time, you can prevent the degeneration of this plant.

How to store garlic

You now know some tricks for planting garlic for the winter. However, it is important not only to grow a good harvest, but also to preserve it in winter. You can store garlic both in braids and in nets or even nylon stockings. The main thing is that the air temperature in the room does not rise above -1 degree. In room conditions, garlic begins to sprout very quickly, losing some of its taste and beneficial properties. When stored in a city apartment, after four months the nutritional value of root vegetables will be halved. After eight months, the beneficial qualities will disappear completely. In this case, the cloves usually even lose their characteristic smell.

If it is not possible to place the garlic in a cold room, you should simply limit the access of air to it. For example, the heads can simply be placed in jars or boxes, sprinkled with layers of flour. Its top layer must have a thickness of at least 2 cm.

Principles of crop rotation

We hope that now you understand when garlic is planted before winter (according to the lunar calendar and based on the weather). Garlic cannot be grown in the same place two years in a row. Firstly, the yield is significantly reduced, and secondly, the plants begin to get sick much more often. Garlic can be planted in its original place no earlier than after five years.

This plant develops very well if it is planted where zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, peas, beans, sorrel or lettuce previously grew. The main thing is that the soil is sufficiently loose and not depleted.

How to choose a variety of garlic

Of course, for cultivation in the climate of the Middle Urals, you should choose only zoned and specially bred varieties for this region. These, for example, include: “agate”, “amethyst”, “granite”, “Vyatka”, “azure”, “nazus”. The latter grows the largest heads. All these varieties are included in the state register of breeding plants approved for use.

Thus, we found out when they start planting garlic in the fall in the Urals, and how to care for it. This is not a difficult matter. The main thing is to meet deadlines and follow the rules of watering and fertilizing.

Hello friends. Autumn has arrived, and it would seem that it’s time to finish all the work with gardens and dachas. The harvest has been harvested, the preparations have been made, what else is needed? But it turns out that rest is not so close. After all, it is in the autumn season that many vegetables, flowers and other vegetation require special care. For example, in order to get a good harvest of garlic next year, you should prepare and plant it in the ground now. Otherwise, you won’t see this useful fruit in the summer.

Garlic protects the brain from aging, preserves good memory and vigor, and has a great effect on the functioning of the body’s immune and nervous systems.

Therefore, today I suggest you understand in detail when and how to properly plant garlic in open ground for the winter in the fall. We will also analyze planting dates according to the lunar calendar and care rules.

I think it’s no secret to anyone that there are two ways to grow garlic:

• winter (planted in autumn, before winter);
• spring (planted in early spring).

We will focus on the first method. Since growing winter garlic is not at all difficult, the main thing is to observe the planting dates.

If you plant garlic early in the fall, it will have time to germinate and therefore die in the winter. If, on the contrary, it is too late, then the plant will not have time to take root and overwinter safely.

Plus, don’t confuse winter and spring garlic. Their main difference is the landing time. Well, the following reminder will help you if you are just a beginner gardener).

Of course, the choice of planting dates will depend not only on the lunar calendar, but also on the region and weather conditions. Experienced gardeners believe that garlic should be planted in the fall three weeks before the first frost.

When and how to plant garlic before winter in autumn 2019

First, I suggest you take a look at the Lunar calendar and look at favorable dates.

So, if you are a resident of the northern regions of our country, then planting winter garlic should begin in September. At the same time, it is better if you do this on the waning Moon on the Days of the Root, that is, the Moon must pass through the fertile signs of the Zodiac.

Please note that landing during the full moon and new moon is not recommended.

But for the majority of Russian residents, garlic is planted before winter in October. The lunar calendar recommends the following favorable dates: October 6, 8, 9, 11, 12.

If November is warm, then it can be used for planting on the following days: November 5-7.

We take December into service only if climatic conditions allow it: December 11-14, 17.

• in September – 1, 6, 16, 20;
• in October – 5, 6, 16;
• in November – 4, 8, 9, 10, 18;
• in December – 1-3, 18, 29.

Also, do not forget to focus on the planned planting depth:

And since we have decided on the planting dates, we move on to the next point - how to plant this vegetable correctly.

After what crop should garlic be planted before winter?

I will immediately answer the question of many people: “After what can you plant garlic?”

It is advisable that tomatoes, legumes or cucumbers grow in the garden before the garlic. Zucchini, pumpkin or early cabbage are also good predecessors.

But where potatoes or onions grew, it is better not to plant garlic. Also, do not plant in an area where you applied manure this year. Otherwise, the plant will produce abundant tops and loose heads, and will be susceptible to fungal diseases.

Now let's talk about choosing a bed for growing this vegetable.

How to choose a place for a garden bed and prepare it for winter garlic

Firstly, find on the site the most fertile soil with normal or low acidity. Make a bed on the sunny side, and place it from north to south.

Secondly, in advance prepare the ground. Starting from the end of August-beginning of September it needs to be fertilized. So, for each square meter of area, add 10 kg of humus, 1 cup of chalk or 2 cups of ash, then add 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate. Distribute all this evenly over the soil, and then dig up the ground. In this case, the digging depth should be at least 20 cm.

After fulfilling the above conditions, proceed to formation of beds.

It is desirable that the bed be up to 1 m wide and up to 25 cm high.

Then give time for soil shrinkage. That is, just leave the bed alone so that the soil settles after digging. By the way, if September is not very rainy, then for better shrinkage you can spill the prepared soil with water several times.

The next stage is tillage. This work is needed in order to prevent garlic diseases. Treat the ground with a 1% solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water. Using a watering can, pour the solution over the entire area of ​​the bed, and then cover it with film.

But on the eve of planting garlic, you can scatter urea (10-20 grams per 1 sq. m) on the surface of the bed and water the soil with water.

Preparing garlic for planting

• Cloves (garlic heads are divided into parts);
• Seeds (bulbs).

The easiest way to get a good harvest is from cloves. So let's take a look stages of preparation this planting material.

1.Disassemble the head into teeth.

First, inspect the garlic and separate the heads into individual cloves. Select the largest and healthiest ones from them.

If you take planting material from non-shooting varieties of garlic, use only the cloves of the outer tier.

2. Disinfect the cloves.

To do this, soak the cloves for a day in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

That's all, the garlic is ready for winter planting in open ground.

Planting winter garlic

Now it’s time to look at the technology for planting vegetables in the fall.

1. Make holes.

On the prepared bed, mark the location for planting the cloves. Take a stick and make holes in the soil at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The depth should be from 3 to 15 cm (here everything depends on the method and time of planting).

The distance between rows is 20-25 cm.

2. Bury the garlic cloves.

Just place the cloves in the holes. At the same time, there is no need to press them into the ground, because this will delay root formation.

3. Cultivate the land.

Spill the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

4. Fill the holes.

Cover the holes with rotted compost.

5. Mulch the garden bed.

For this procedure, use peat, pine needles or fallen leaves. The optimal layer of mulch is approximately 10 cm.

Please note that in warm regions there is no need to mulch winter garlic.

As a matter of fact, these are all the secrets of planting and caring for winter garlic! And by the way, don’t forget that every two years the vegetable’s place of residence needs to be changed.

If you want to use a second material for planting - seeds or bulbs, then watch the following video. I'm sure you will succeed. 😉

When to plant garlic in the fall before winter for different regions of Russia

Well, in conclusion, I would also like to pay attention to what are the favorable days for proper planting of vegetables for certain regions of our country.

Planting garlic before winter for residents of the Moscow region according to the Lunar calendar 2019

Planting garlic in the fall before winter for residents of Siberia

Planting garlic before winter in the Urals

For residents of the Urals, the correct dates will be October 16, 20, 21, 22, 23. Well, if you are from the Southern or Middle Urals, then focus on these dates: October 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30.

That's all I wanted to tell you about today. I hope that you will not have any difficulties planting garlic and that next year will be especially fruitful. Have a great mood everyone and see you again!

Allium sativum is the name given to two crops in Latin: onion and garlic. Genetic roots go back to the long-pointed onion species. Scientists have confirmed the hypothesis of the complete identity of these two species. These plants belong to the genus Onion, which has just under one thousand species. The genus belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. The greatest concentration of varieties grows in Asia, so the region is considered to be the birthplace of the plant.

Know! Initially, the plant was cultivated for medicinal purposes. The specific aroma and pungent taste of the vegetable attracted the Asian peoples much later, where the purposeful cultivation of the vegetable began.

The leafy mass of the plant is elongated-lanceolate. The foliage can be erect or drooping. The surface of the pointed green plates is covered with a waxy coating; there are no voids. The thickness of the layer depends on the variety; in some cultivars the coating is so pronounced that the foliage appears bluish. The height of garlic bushes is 30-90 cm. Each leaf is equipped with a keel - a stem-encompassing extension. Due to the dense layering of keels on top of each other, the garlic stalk becomes very strong.

Under the ground, the vegetable forms a flat-round bulb with a dense root lobe. The head consists of daughter bulbs, the number of which ranges from 2 to 50. Each clove is protected from mechanical damage and damage by pests by dense integumentary scales. The color of the baby cover and the outer scales of the head depends on the variety. Most have a silver-gray color, but there are specimens with light straw, purple, and pinkish scales. The shape of the daughter bulbs is convex, narrowing towards the inside.

The peduncle of the plant reaches a height of one and a half meters. At the end of the flower stem there is an umbrella inflorescence. The closed umbrella is packed in a thin white film, with a sharp end on top of the film. Due to the resemblance of the peduncle to an arrow, it was nicknamed the arrow. Young shoots closer to the inflorescence are twisted like a spiral.

Know! Not only the head is eaten. The leaves are often added to salads, fried, and various sauces and pickles are prepared from the flower stalks.

The inflorescence produces sterile flowers. The corolla consists of six petals. Flowers form empty boxes after wilting. Along with the buds, inside the inflorescence there are bulblets - aerial bulbs that gardeners use to grow garlic sets.

When propagated using this method, it will take two years to cultivate the vegetable. In the first year, a single-toothed onion (set) will grow. After another season, the seed will grow into a head with babies. This method of propagation saves money, because up to 150 bulbs are formed in the peduncle, which completely retain the varietal characteristics. This allows you to rejuvenate the old variety, because if you constantly use only cloves for propagation, the heads will become smaller over time.

The appearance of a peduncle is not observed in all varieties of vegetables. Non-arrowing cultivars are easier to care for, since the peduncles must be removed (unless propagation through bulbs is planned). Otherwise, the crop will attempt to form aerial bulbs, which will affect the size of the underground bulb. Shooting varieties are more resistant to weather vagaries and are less susceptible to diseases.

This is interesting! The formation of a peduncle is possible even in non-shooting cultivars. To do this, it is enough to grow them in a favorable climate. Harsh conditions, on the contrary, prevent the growth of shoots.

The fungicidal, antimicrobial, antimycotic, and anti-inflammatory properties of the vegetable have been known since ancient times. The aromatic harvest strengthens the immune system, prevents the formation of cholesterol plaques, and strengthens the walls of blood vessels. The aroma caused by the presence of phytoncides stimulates appetite and destroys pathogenic flora. The antioxidant allicin destroys free radicals and inhibits the growth of cancer cells.

What else is important to know about the hot vegetable? It should not be given to cats and dogs. Allicin, which is part of the chemical composition of the plant, is beneficial to the human body, but is poisonous to animals.

Features of growing garlic in this climate

The majestic Urals have difficult climatic conditions. Growing crops here is hard work for a gardener, so the territory is included in the list of risky farming zones. Summer is short and hot, nature wakes up late in spring, and frosts rush to destroy vegetation already at the beginning of autumn. Winter is so harsh that even frost-resistant crops need shelter. Let's add to this the predominance of a mountain climate with uneven distribution of precipitation and we get a set of factors unfavorable for cultivation.

Attention! The climatic conditions of the region drive gardeners into strict limits. It is important not to make a mistake with the timing of planting, otherwise the crop will be in danger of complete destruction.

Vegetable growers recommend using winter varieties of hot vegetables for planting in the Urals. Moreover, they must be selected in strict accordance with the zoning rules. Although there are not many cultivars for this region, even in this region you can get a good harvest. Winter varieties are more resistant to climate influences, get sick less often, and are more productive.

It is important to provide the plant with all the conditions for optimal development - choose the right site taking into account crop rotation, prepare the soil and cloves using a certain technology, and organize shelter for the winter. Sowing bulbs is often used, which can rejuvenate the plant and improve productivity.

With the arrival of spring, you should pay special attention to the garlic bed. It is important to support the vital activity of seedlings using proper care. Only if you follow agrotechnical rules in the Urals, you can harvest an excellent harvest of burning heads.

What varieties of garlic are suitable for the Urals

Let us remember that few winter varieties are zoned for the region, but some cultivars originally from Siberia are also cultivated in the Urals. Among the best representatives of the winter group, gardeners preferred the following cultivars:

1. Bogatyr.
2. Scythian.
3. Flight.
4. Saved.
5. Dobrynya.
6. Lyubasha.
7. Nazus.
8. Sofievsky.
9. Novosibirsk.
10. Bashkirsky 85.

Bogatyr is a large-fruited cultivar that forms flat-round bulbs weighing from 75 to 120 grams. There are only 5-7 teeth inside the head, the weight of individual children is up to 25 grams.

The taste has a pronounced pungency. Winter hardiness, high productivity, long-term storage are the main advantages of Bogatyr.

On a note! The hybrid Bogatyr has a very dense bottom, so it is not afraid of a nematode attack.

Skiff appeared on the market relatively recently - 15 years ago. The cultivar was bred specifically for the harsh climate of Siberia, but it will also overwinter well in the Urals. The gray husk is dotted with bright purple veins. Heads weighing up to 40 g hide 4-6 cloves. Skif never gets sick. Gardeners highly appreciated its adaptive capabilities and good productivity.

Poljot is a arrow type cultivar. It is characterized by medium ripening, productivity, increased frost resistance and good health. Flat-round onions weighing 35-40 g contain 5-6 sharp segments. The cover is pink-violet.

The Spas hybrid is not afraid of diseases and pests; even the Ural frosts will not reduce its high productivity. Spas produces arrows, forms very large bulbs weighing 80-110 g. Inside there are 6-8 burning children. Keeping quality is long lasting.

Dobrynya is a very productive winter hybrid; up to 3 kg of crop can be harvested from one square meter. Freshness will remain for six months. Dobrynya ripens later than other cultivars. Heads weighing 55-60 g, segments of moderate sharpness in the amount of 10-12 pieces. The integumentary scales are grayish with purple veins.

On a note! Dobrynya is resistant to diseases, fusarium, and highly productive.

Lyubasha is a highly productive hybrid of Ukrainian selection. It is distinguished by especially large fruits, the weight of which reaches 150 g. Experienced gardeners, with good care, managed to obtain specimens weighing over 300 g. The pungent segments are universally used. Number of children 5-7. Keeping quality is long lasting. Lyubasha is comprehensively resistant to diseases and is not affected by pests.

Nazus is one of the best bolting hybrids for the region in question. Inside the flat-round head there are 5-6 large teeth. The bulb weighs over 60 g. Nazus is absolutely not afraid of frost. The yield is about 1 kg per square meter of bed.

Bashkirsky 85 - the name of the cultivar indicates early ripening. Ready for harvesting in 85-90 days. Neat round bulbs weighing up to 60 g are covered with purple scales. The flesh of the slices is dense, the taste is very sharp. Bashkir 85 is frost-resistant, highly productive, does not get sick and is not affected by pests. Powdery mildew poses a danger, but if you follow the growing rules, the fungus will not settle on the foliage.

Sofievsky withstands unfavorable conditions, pests bypass it, and strong immunity to diseases has been developed. Sofievsky has large light purple onions weighing over 100 g. Productivity is stable. A clove with a spicy taste.

Novosibirsk does not produce flower stalks. The integumentary scales of the flattened head are painted in soft pink tones. The average weight of the fruit is 25 g, the number of segments is 5-10, the taste is moderately hot. High yield, frost resistance, shelf life up to 6 months are the advantages of Novosibirsk.

On a note! The yield of the Bashkir 85 hybrid is up to 7 kg. This indicator is a big plus in favor of cultivation.

What to choose – winter or spring variety, what is their difference

In the Urals, due to climatic conditions, previously only winter varieties of vegetables were planted. The trend has continued to this day; only a few gardeners cultivate spring cultivars, of which there are very few for this region. What is the difference between winter and spring garlic?

The bulbs of the winter crop have a core base in the center, which is formed after the stem dies. Large daughter bulbs “sit” in one row around the rod. The cloves taste very sharp. The quantity rarely exceeds 10-12 pieces. The time for planting winter varieties is early autumn, harvesting is carried out 2 weeks earlier than the spring variety - by mid-summer.

Old varieties of the winter type are not stored for long; they are suitable for direct consumption during the season; before the New Year, the fiery seasoning is served at the table. Breeders have endowed modern hybrids with good keeping quality; the crop retains its quality until the next season.

The spring vegetable has a mild pungency. The middle of the head does not contain a hard rod; the tiniest teeth are located in the center. Larger specimens are located around them in 2-3 rows. The total number of children is up to 20-25. The spring vegetable is planted in early spring and harvested by the end of summer. Shelf life lasts 9-18 months. The spring variety Permyak has been released in the Urals.

Important! Spring plants develop more slowly, so it is very difficult to achieve full productivity from them in harsh climates. Therefore, Ural gardeners do not have a question about what kind of garlic to plant; the answer is clear - winter.

Planting garlic in the Urals according to the lunar calendar 2017

The lunar calendar is an indispensable companion for the advanced gardener, who relies not only on his own opinion, but also on the knowledge of his ancestors. People have long noted that the satellite of our planet influences many natural processes. Ebbs and flows, according to our ancestors, occur not only at sea. This phenomenon is also observed inside living organisms, because flora and fauna mostly consist of water.

During the increase in the disk of the moon, all the fluids of the plant body form a tide, that is, they accumulate in the upper part. This phenomenon promotes increased upward growth of plants. The reverse process occurs when the lunar disk decreases - liquids move underground and circulate in the roots. Therefore, on the waning moon, gardeners plant plants that form a harvest underground.

Do not forget that the process of migration of cell sap occurs gradually; plant organisms need time to rebuild. It falls on the full moon and new moon. For several days during the restructuring, it is better not to carry out work related to planting various plants.

Know! The moment of restructuring is conducive to the fight against excess vegetation, pruning, loosening, and destruction of pests.

It is problematic to achieve fruiting, so gardeners resort to the help of the lunar calendar. In 2017, winter planting is favored by the beginning of September - on the 8th and 9th, and also at the end - on the 23rd, 24th, 27-28th. Avoid working on the 6th and 20th. In October, planting will be successful on 10-11, 16, 22, 25 and 26; planting cannot be done on the 5th and 19th. In November you can’t plant anything in the Urals; winter is gradually coming.

Planting garlic

The more meticulous you are about the process of planting and pre-planting preparation, the higher the chance of an excellent harvest.

Landing dates

Typically, the Asian guest is planted 40 days before serious frosts. A month is enough for the cloves to develop the root lobe, but it will not be enough for germination. Not a single gardener can tell you the exact planting date. So, in the Moscow region it is customary to plant in the first ten days of October, but in the south of Russia you can postpone planting until November. For the Urals, the optimal time comes in the second ten days of September. If prolonged rains and a sharp cold snap are forecast, you should hurry a little. Wait until the temperature at night is no higher than 10⁰C, then start planting work.

Important! If you are planting cloves at a greater depth, start the activity a little earlier, from the end of August. This approach will protect the planting material from freezing and promotes rapid rooting.

Selecting a location

Although the newcomer from Asia is distinguished by its increased winter hardiness, its natural abode is full of sun and warmth. Select a slightly elevated area for the garden bed; when spring comes, the snow will melt faster in such a place. The place should be illuminated as much as possible throughout the day.

An important condition is the presence of fertile land. Light loams with a slightly acidic reaction suit Asians perfectly. If you planted early crops in this area in the spring, remove them 8 weeks before planting. The space for root vegetables and onions is not suitable for crop rotation reasons. In the first case, the soil is greatly depleted, and in the second, the risk of disease increases. Melons, members of the legume family, peppers, and early potatoes are excellent predecessors. Have you decided to give the earth a rest? Plant green manure on the site. In a short growing season, these plants will grow, loosen and enrich the soil with minerals.

Remember! Onion brethren should not be cultivated in the selected location for at least 3 years. It is unacceptable to plant the plant in the same place every year.

Soil preparation

Asian roots live in the top layer of soil; they draw nutrients from the soil, quickly depleting it. The site should be dug up along with organic components 3 weeks before planting. Fresh manure is not included in this list, as it causes burns and rotting of the bulbs. Take peat, compost or humus at the rate of 8-15 kg/m2. Sprinkle 50 g of a mixture of potassium and phosphorus salts onto each square meter of the future bed, add a glass of ash.

If necessary, put the mechanical composition in order, providing the plant with medium-density soil. On loose soil, the planted segments will fail, and as the dense soil freezes, they will be pushed out.

Remove weeds while digging. The height of the garlic bed is 20 cm. Treat the soil by pouring 5 liters of copper sulfate per 1 m2. The solution concentration is 1%. Throw a film over the bed.

Preparation of planting material

Pre-planting preparation consists of sorting and disinfecting planting material. Only large teeth with an intact shell are suitable for planting. Make sure they are tight and have no signs of spoilage.

An important stage is etching. Disinfection is carried out with a solution of potassium permanganate, the children are soaked for 24 hours. The time can be significantly reduced by processing in a solution of wood ash. Two hours of soaking will be enough. The third method of processing is to alternately immerse the slices in a salt solution. For a five-liter container you will need three tablespoons of copper sulfate (concentration 1%). Soak the planting material for two and one minutes, respectively.

On a note! To prepare the ash infusion, boil 400 g of stove ash in two liters of water for half an hour. Wait for the mixture to cool completely.

Disembarkation rules

You need to plant before winter according to the following instructions:

• 3-4 days before planting, irrigate the garden bed abundantly;
• form furrows 15 cm deep in increments of 20-25 cm;
• Fill the bottom of the groove with sand drainage 3 cm high;
• plant the slices in increments of 13-15 cm for large specimens and 6-7 cm for small ones;
• Cover the surface of the bed with a sheet of roofing felt and cover it with spruce branches.

It is practiced to plant tines in two tiers. Different depths for embedding segments save space. Deepen the first “floor” by 17-20 cm, and the second by 10-12 cm. Then two heads will grow in one place. Due to the different planting depths, they will not interfere with each other during the growth process.

Planting with aerial bulbs

It is acceptable to use bulblets as planting material. They are pre-soaked in clean water for 24 hours, changing the liquid every 5-6 hours. This approach will allow you to detect non-germinating material. It will float to the surface of the container.

The bed is prepared in the same way, but sowing is carried out to a depth of 20-30 mm. The step between the bulbs in a row is 3-5 cm. To prevent the tender bulbs from freezing, be sure to cover the bed with roofing felt and place spruce paws on top.

Caring for garlic after planting

After organizing the shelter, the bed is left until spring. It is not customary to carry out any manipulations with it. When winter ends, remove the cover and begin caring for the young shoots.

Watering, mulching

Young sprouts should be watered abundantly, making sure that moisture does not stagnate. Natural precipitation will serve as a guide. If it rains regularly, water the garden bed once a week. Gradually, the intensity of irrigation decreases, and 2-3 weeks before harvesting it completely stops. Mulching is carried out after complete absorption of the liquid. Sprinkle the soil with a layer of humus or peat chips 1.5-2 cm high.

Know! Mulch will conserve moisture, slow down the growth of weeds, and prevent the formation of crust on the surface. Thanks to this, there will be no need to loosen the soil.

Loosening, weeding

Try to pull out weeds before their stems become thick. Otherwise, the risk of pulling out the head along with the roots of the weed will increase. As soon as pointed flower stalks appear from the depths of the stem, they should be cut off. If you want to renew planting material, leave arrows on 2-3 bushes.

The Asian needs systematic loosening of the soil after watering, but if a mulch layer is laid out, there is no need for it. Loosening will provide oxygen access to the roots. You should not bury the tool, because you can damage the bulb.

Top dressing

The appearance of two leaves is a reason to support the development of the plant by applying fertilizer. Now the shoots need nitrogen, because the nutrients in the bulbs are heated during photosynthesis, and for this you need to produce green mass. Add mullein infusion or water the bed with urea (20 grams per 10 liters of water). In June, feed with a natural mineral complex - a solution of stove ash. Stir 200 g of ash in a bucket of water.

On a note! Fertilizer will not only satisfy the Asian needs for potassium and microelements, but will also protect against pest attacks.

Ripening time for garlic in the Urals

Most varieties sown before winter ripen within 90-110 days from the appearance of the first greenery. In the Urals this happens by the end of July. Growing early ripening cultivars “Bashkirsky 85” and “Novosibirsky” reduces harvesting time to 85-90 days. For the late-ripening cultivar “Dobrynya” the terms extend to 120 days. The heads ready for harvesting have already formed dense integumentary scales. Check its condition by digging up 2-3 specimens from different parts of the garden bed.

When and how to harvest

It is important to harvest the crop on time. If this is not done, the bulb will wait a short period of rest, and then a sprout will appear from each segment and the growth process will resume, because the plant is a perennial in nature. Focus on the ripening time of the cultivated cultivar.

The appearance of the bush will indicate its readiness for harvesting:

• lack of new growth;
• lodging and the appearance of yellowness on the leaves;
• set of weight inherent in the variety;
• maturation of the integumentary scales.

The excavation is carried out on a fine autumn day using a pitchfork with flat teeth. The rows are dug at some distance so as not to injure the bulbs. Carefully remove excess soil from the surface using a glove. The harvest is dried for 10 days in the open air or under a canopy. Transfer the collected heads to the barn and dry for 2 weeks at temperatures above 25⁰C. Before storing. Remove the root lobe and leaves. If you do not plan to weave into braids, cut the stem at a height of 2-3 cm.

Important! During drying, inspect for damage. Remove affected specimens.

How to properly store garlic

Winter garlic is not stored for a long time, because it is intended for consumption before the New Year. Hanging will help prolong freshness. You can simply collect bunches and tie them together or braid them. The braids are hung in a room with a temperature no higher than 5⁰C. The optimal humidity level is 60-80%. A cell in a vegetable store or cellar is suitable. Bunches or braids are evenly ventilated, they are easy to inspect and remove spoiled specimens.

Storage in salt is acceptable. Fill a wooden box with salt and heads in layers. There should be a layer of salt on top. Or you can simply put the onions in a canvas bag or stocking and hang them or put them in the refrigerator, tying the bag tightly.

On a note! A good way to preserve freshness is to store it in vegetable oil. Fill a glass container with peeled slices and fill with oil to the top. The teeth will remain fresh, and the aromatic oil can be used for culinary experiments.

Folk signs for planting garlic in the Urals

It is difficult for beginners in gardening to navigate the timing of planting an Asian guest. The ancient signs used by our ancestors will come to the rescue:

• your hands feel cold in the open air - it’s time to plant;
• a garlic bed is laid when the shoals of birds flock to their native lands;
• If your bare feet get cold on the damp soil, you can start planting.

But the most common sign is about the meeting of autumn and winter, which occurs on the day of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos. It is better to finish autumn plantings before October 14th.

Conclusion

In the Urals, due to the harsh climate, it is preferable to plant garlic in the fall (before winter). If all agrotechnical maintenance standards are met, planting and harvesting times are observed, even in this region you can reap a rich harvest of useful vegetable crops.

Article at the request of my gardener friends.

Many years ago, when I was just beginning to discover the joys of gardening, my kind neighbor (a really good woman) gave me a handful of garlic cloves, told me how to plant them and how to care for them. I did everything in accordance with her recommendations and at the end of the summer I received the fruits of my labors. The garlic heads were “terribly good”, plump, white, slightly larger than a walnut, each of them consisted of almost 12 cloves. This was my first garlic harvest, I was incredibly proud of it and tried to treat every guest who entered the house.

My brother-in-law, who likes to eat a garlic clove during lunch, agreed to try my harvest a couple of times, but then politely refused the treat. I wondered: why didn’t he please him?

In the end, everything turned out to be much simpler. Once, while visiting my sister, I noticed an amazing garlic lying on her kitchen table. The heads are the size of a child's fist, each with only 5-6 large teeth. I thought that such wonderful garlic was most likely the result of the labor of the inhabitants of the Middle Kingdom.

Noticing my interest, my sister said: “Oh, Galina Vasilievna gave it to me.”

Galina Vasilievna is her mother-in-law, a wonderful woman who absolutely does not want to correspond to the image that has developed among the masses about the “blood-drinking mother-in-law.”

Admiring the garlic from Galina Vasilyevna, I understood why Sergei (her son and my brother-in-law) refused my treat; of course, he was not used to peeling match-sized garlic cloves.

I immediately called Serezha’s mother. It turned out that this garlic was winter and her personal creation, grown in the garden plot.

Galina Vasilyevna shared her experience with great pleasure, and in the fall I received a gift from her, a whole bowl of seed material.

Since then, growing winter garlic has become my favorite pastime in the garden, because without much effort, from a three square meter garden bed, I can harvest enough for planting, harvesting, and food.

I no longer grow spring garlic, although it has an undeniable advantage over winter garlic: the possibility of long-term storage. However, the large number of small teeth makes it less attractive in my eyes. In addition, spring garlic in the Southern Urals reproduces only vegetatively, and therefore, sooner or later the plant will begin to degenerate, losing its varietal characteristics.

As for winter garlic, it will, of course, not be stored as long as spring garlic, but it is quite edible until mid-summer. Positive quality: large teeth and the ability to form bulbs, which makes it possible to obtain a large amount of seed material in one season and reduce the risk of degeneration of the variety to a minimum.

In general, every gardener chooses what he likes. Personally, I prefer winter garlic, if only because in the spring there is more than enough worry in the gardens, but garlic planted in the fall does not require any effort or special attention until the shoots appear.

Now let’s learn more about how I grow winter garlic the size of a child’s fist.

To be honest, there are no special secrets here. Observing the futile attempts of my friends to grow winter garlic of a decent size, I came to the conclusion that the problem lies not in care, but in elementary neglect of the biological characteristics of the plant. Planting dates, planting patterns and depths are violated, and the plant’s attitude to watering and fertilizing is not taken into account.

Let's start with the timing.

Timing for planting winter garlic in the Southern Urals.

Winter garlic is planted in the Southern Urals from October 5 to October 10. If you plant garlic earlier, the cloves will have time to take root and sprout. This must not be allowed, otherwise he will simply freeze to death. If you plant it later, the garlic will not have time to take root and will also freeze. For many years now I have been planting garlic from October 5 to October 10, and there have never been any incidents.

Soil preparation.

About a month before planting, you need to prepare the bed. How I do it:

• I dig the soil deeply with a garden fork, carefully removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds.
• I add a bucket of well-rotted organic material (humus, compost) per 1 square meter of bed. I'm digging again.
• Then I also add a bucket of sawdust (or fresh) per 1 square meter of ridge and carry out deep loosening.
• Next, I add 1 liter jar of wood or grass ash, followed by deep loosening.
• One handful of superphosphate per 1 square meter of bed.
• You can also add 1 liter jar of dry crushed bird droppings, fluff lime or bleach per square meter of deeply loosened beds.
• I form the ridge, level it and leave it alone until the time for planting the garlic comes. The prepared bed can be covered with cardboard to protect it from the external environment.

Perhaps for some, preparing the soil for garlic in this way will seem somewhat labor-intensive, but believe me, it’s worth it. The fact is that to obtain a large head of garlic, it is necessary to plant it quite deeply, and if you neglect seasoning and deep mechanical tillage of the soil, then no amount of fertilizing will subsequently help to grow a good harvest.

The plant is light-loving, therefore, we choose a well-lit area. The best predecessors for garlic: tomatoes, peppers, early and cauliflower, carrots, pumpkin, legumes.

Preparing winter garlic for planting.

For planting, I take one clove grown from bulbs, or I choose large, undamaged heads without signs of disease (by the way, my garlic has never been sick with anything, and I’ve been growing it for almost 15 years). For planting, it is completely unacceptable to take those plants on which arrows were left.

I carefully separate the selected heads of garlic into cloves, which I soak for a couple of minutes in a saline solution (3 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water), then immediately lower them into a solution of copper sulfate for 1 minute (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). I take the teeth out of the solution and start planting without washing or drying. I do the same with one tooth.

Planting winter garlic.

In order to grow large garlic, it is necessary to provide it with sufficient feeding area. The best option in this case, according to my many years of observation, is to maintain a distance between the cloves of 16-20 centimeters, and make the row spacing at least 20-25 centimeters.

On a ridge 1 meter wide and 3 meters long, I mark approximately 13 transverse furrows (this makes it easier for me to care for the plantings, since my entire garden is geared towards the Fokin flat cutter). I remove the soil from the marked furrows with a bayonet shovel to a depth of at least 20 - 25 centimeters. I water each furrow generously; as soon as the water is absorbed into the soil, I plant 5–6 cloves, immersing them in the mud to the required depth.

Why so deep? The fact is that garlic belongs to the bulbous genus, and for best development, planting material is planted to a depth of three (four) heights. My teeth, as a rule, have a height of 4 - 5 centimeters, so the planting depth should be no less than 16 - 20 centimeters, which is what will happen after the furrow is spilled with water.

I level the planted ridge and leave it alone until frost. When a frozen crust forms on the surface of the garlic bed, I sprinkle it with humus or ready-made compost in a 2-3 centimeter layer and leave it until spring. For better snow retention, you can lay on it branches of berry and fruit trees obtained during autumn pruning, which must be removed immediately after the snow cover melts.