How to make a ring from epoxy resin. A frozen miracle with your own hands: learning to make jewelry from epoxy resin DIY jewelry from epoxy resin

Resin is poured into portions, dyes, glitter, a knife (I made it myself, from a bearing race), shavings, molds for filling (silicone is the most convenient) and/or you can make paper ones by gluing them with tape. (you can easily remove the workpiece), cups for additional mixing And be sure to work with gloves (either latex ones are sold in pharmacies, or in the store “everything for 51 rubles” I bought from cellophane)

The first step is to mix the shavings with resin and tint - these dyes give a bright, dense color, so add drop by drop, on the tip of a toothpick, until the desired saturation

in this case I used 3 dyes - black, green and blue.
added glitter sparkles in a simple way))

Mix the resin with the hardener in the specified proportion: 10 parts resin to 1 part hardener. What are the white cups for? We pour the resin-hardener mixture into them and mix again. Since the initial cup may contain unmixed resin and hardener, and if you pour it into the mold, you may be unpleasantly surprised by the stickiness of the workpiece. Therefore, we pour it and mix again. During the mixing process, air bubbles appear in the resin, and we get rid of them as follows:

There is one more secret - before vacuum treatment, we heat the resin in hot water to 50-60 degrees - it becomes thinner, and the bubbles leave the resin faster. Vacuum for 10-20 minutes. After this you can pour it into the mold.

after pouring and 10-15 minutes have passed, use a lighter to remove small bubbles and leave for 24 hours until completely hardened (according to the instructions). Practice shows that the heated mixture hardens completely in 4-5 hours. The simplest part is over.
These are the cubes I pulled out of the mold this morning.

Processing... Here we IMMEDIATELY put on clothes for dirty work, and be sure to wear a mask - since there will be a LOT of dust, and if possible, do everything in a checked room and/or with an exhaust hood.
It’s much easier for me to take it to work and grind and drill there on machines. At home I use a regular drill for drilling and a file))) First of all, I drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the center of the workpiece and after that I go to make a circle from the square))

This is how I look after turning the blanks on a machine with a hood. So I remind you once again that this is a “very dirty” stage

I grind it with a round file to almost the right size.

And the first “meditative” process with sandpaper begins - rough grinding of the ring. Bad photo, but the essence is clear - the ring is taking shape.

And the important stage begins - “get the size”))) because 15 mm and 15.5 mm is a huge difference for wearing a ring comfortably. Girls know what a small ring means - the finger swells and it is very difficult to remove the ring without the help of soap, cream, thread (you don’t have to mock :-))))
And the second “meditative stage” of polishing begins. For this I use waterproof (important) sandpaper 600,1200,2500 grit.

We do all the sanding with water; water prevents the sandpaper from becoming clogged. We “pass” each ring through all the skins from 600 to 2500 - we remove all the scratches. I usually start on the inside and depending on how well I sand the inside, how well the ring will look on the outside. I spend about 30-40 minutes polishing one ring and the final treatment is polishing. I bought polishing paste by weight at the car market - “For optics with plastic lenses” and with the help of an engraver the rings take on their final form.

I devoted this entire week to working on orders from Rakhman from Grozny

Alexandra from Moscow

Oleg from Kolpino

And Yulia from St. Petersburg

Rakhman, Alexander, Oleg and Yulia, you saw how YOUR rings were made. Thank you for your attention.

Resin is poured into portions, dyes, glitter, a knife (I made it myself, from a bearing race), shavings, molds for filling (silicone is the most convenient) and/or you can make paper ones by gluing them with tape. (you can easily remove the workpiece), cups for additional mixing And be sure to work with gloves (either latex ones are sold in pharmacies, or in the store “everything for 51 rubles” I bought from cellophane)

The first step is to mix the shavings with resin and tint - these dyes give a bright, dense color, so add drop by drop, on the tip of a toothpick, until the desired saturation

in this case I used 3 dyes - black, green and blue.
added glitter sparkles in a simple way))

Mix the resin with the hardener in the specified proportion: 10 parts resin to 1 part hardener. What are the white cups for? We pour the resin-hardener mixture into them and mix again. Since the initial cup may contain unmixed resin and hardener, and if you pour it into the mold, you may be unpleasantly surprised by the stickiness of the workpiece. Therefore, we pour it and mix again. During the mixing process, air bubbles appear in the resin, and we get rid of them as follows:

There is one more secret - before vacuum treatment, we heat the resin in hot water to 50-60 degrees - it becomes thinner, and the bubbles leave the resin faster. Vacuum for 10-20 minutes. After this you can pour it into the mold.

after pouring and 10-15 minutes have passed, use a lighter to remove small bubbles and leave for 24 hours until completely hardened (according to the instructions). Practice shows that the heated mixture hardens completely in 4-5 hours. The simplest part is over.
These are the cubes I pulled out of the mold this morning.

Processing... Here we IMMEDIATELY put on clothes for dirty work, and be sure to wear a mask - since there will be a LOT of dust, and if possible, do everything in a checked room and/or with an exhaust hood.
It’s much easier for me to take it to work and grind and drill there on machines. At home I use a regular drill for drilling and a file))) First of all, I drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the center of the workpiece and after that I go to make a circle from the square))

This is how I look after turning the blanks on a machine with a hood. So I remind you once again that this is a “very dirty” stage

I grind it with a round file to almost the right size.

And the first “meditative” process with sandpaper begins - rough grinding of the ring. Bad photo, but the essence is clear - the ring is taking shape.

And the important stage begins - “get the size”))) because 15 mm and 15.5 mm is a huge difference for wearing a ring comfortably. Girls know what a small ring means - the finger swells and it is very difficult to remove the ring without the help of soap, cream, thread (you don’t have to mock :-))))
And the second “meditative stage” of polishing begins. For this I use waterproof (important) sandpaper 600,1200,2500 grit.

We do all the sanding with water; water prevents the sandpaper from becoming clogged. We “pass” each ring through all the skins from 600 to 2500 - we remove all the scratches. I usually start on the inside and depending on how well I sand the inside, how well the ring will look on the outside. I spend about 30-40 minutes polishing one ring and the final treatment is polishing. I bought polishing paste by weight at the car market - “For optics with plastic lenses” and with the help of an engraver the rings take on their final form.

To work you need:

- epoxy resin;

— silicone molds (for epoxy resin);

— disposable gloves, syringes, cups, stirring stick;

— various natural materials (dried flowers, shells, pebbles, etc.);

- gold leaf, stained glass paints, Perlex powder.

I work on a regular file so as not to stain the table.

To create the hemisphere pendant, I selected two different dandelions so that I could compare how they would look in the final version.

Before starting work, thoroughly rinse all molds that we plan to use and wipe them dry. Wearing gloves, pour resin and hardener into disposable cups (it’s more convenient to fill them with a syringe). We work in a well-ventilated area.

Having measured out the required amount of resin, pour it into a clean, dry glass, use another syringe to measure the required amount of hardener and add it to the resin. Different manufacturers have their own proportions, so carefully read what is written on the packaging and follow all recommendations for work. The final result depends on the accuracy; if the resin has not hardened, it means the proportions have been violated, or the mixture is not mixed well enough.

If you take a syringe with a rubber insert inside, the hardener will not splash when you pour it into the epoxy. Using a wooden stick (you can use skewers for kebabs) thoroughly mix the resulting mixture. I time it for 10 minutes and stir it in a circular motion to prevent air from getting in.

We carefully place the dandelion in the mold (I removed the lower parachutes with tweezers)

After mixing, I leave the resin for about half an hour so that the chemical reaction takes place: you can judge that the reaction is taking place by the heated glass of resin. I found experimentally that you should not work in very hot weather, the reaction will begin to proceed very violently and the resin will harden completely within half an hour. This applies to the resin I use; different manufacturers have different criteria.

Gently pour the resin into the mold in a thin stream, onto the dandelion.

Because After it hardens, it will settle a little, pour it so that you get a small convex lens.


Now I will show you how you can make beautiful rings from pieces of glass washed and polished by the sea.

Pour a little resin, place the pebbles, carefully add on top, as when working with a hemisphere, to create a convex surface.

I'm making earrings with dandelion parachutes. Pour some resin and spread it with a stick. At this stage, the resin begins to gradually thicken, this is exactly what is needed so that the parachutes remain in the position in which they were placed.

We arrange the bouquet.


Top it up with resin with a small bulge. If you do this carefully, you will end up needing minimal sanding.

A truncated ball is obtained in exactly the same way. Pour resin halfway into the mold.

We place the required number of parachutes with a toothpick or, as I did, with a large needle (it’s good to wipe it off the resin).

Add resin to the mold with dandelion.

Now we’ll make a bracelet with shells from the Black and Azov Seas. In the same way, pour epoxy resin into a clean, dry bracelet mold. By this time it has become even thicker, so some of it remains on the walls, which is what I need. Add shells, pebbles, starfish, anything interesting to the mold) Pour out the crushed shells, which stick to the walls, creating the effect of a suspended state.


Half an hour before this, I prepared a new portion of resin, very carefully pour it on top to avoid the appearance of unnecessary bubbles. If there are still bubbles, you can preheat the oven to 80 degrees, ventilate, place a mold with resin there (molds can withstand temperatures up to + 204 C). The bubbles will come out.

It is important that the mold stands on a flat surface, otherwise the resin will harden in an inclined position. The more carefully you pour the epoxy, the less sanding you will need to do later. I poured resin as much as possible to the very top, with a slight bulge.

Now we wait a day until the resin dries completely. To prevent debris/dust from getting onto the surface of the products, you need to cover them with something, a box, a lid.

At this time we will make a pendant. We prepare the main background - apply liquid plastic to the workpiece. Cover with polymer clay, rolled into a thin layer, distribute and bake in the oven. Let it cool and you can start working.

We pour a few drops of resin so that it can be distributed on the surface and, using tweezers and a needle, we make a composition from completely dried leaves - flowers. The resin acts as a glue that prevents the light dried flowers from moving from their place. You should not use live or poorly dried flowers for filling with resin; over time they will deteriorate and turn black.

Because There is a holder on the back of the pendant, I had to put it in a mold so that the surface was horizontal. I never think in advance what the composition should be, so I lay out all the suitable flowers and herbs and with inspiration begin to assemble a small living picture.


The end result is such a small world. We leave it to dry, after the resin has hardened, you can fill it with a second layer, forming a convex beautiful lens.

A day passed, the resin was completely cured and I took out all the resulting blanks. This is a bracelet, its upper part.

Using the same principle, you can make a pendant, earrings, ring, etc.

This is a hemisphere with a dandelion, next to it is a second one, orange, for comparison.

These are the resulting truncated balls with parachutes:

I also filled in small hemispheres:

Rings made from sea glass; for comparison, I used the ones I made earlier.

If you add a drop of stained glass paint or Perlex powder to the resin, you can get different shades of resin. When painting with stained glass paint, you should add just a drop, because... The proportions between the resin and hardener may be disrupted by coloring, and as a result the product may not harden or may become sticky when touched.

You can add gold leaf and get interesting decorations.

And these lenses with parachutes, as you can see, lie beautifully. Just as it was intended.

The reverse side remained flush with the edges of the lenses.

After complete hardening, it is necessary to sand down uneven and sharp edges.

Epoxy resin jewelry is becoming more popular every day. A variety of pendants, earrings, bracelets, and, of course, rings. The beauty of such products is simply mesmerizing. But the cost of such jewelry on the market is quite high, so many people learn to create masterpieces on their own. Is it easy to make rings from epoxy resin at home? Let’s try to figure it out.

Kinds

Jewelry made from epoxy resin surprises with its variety. Despite the fact that the general manufacturing technology remains the same, making some adjustments allows you to achieve a truly unique look.

Epoxy rings are surprisingly smooth and even, but they can also be versatile:

  • transparent without patterns;
  • multi-colored;
  • interspersed with shavings;
  • with dried flowers;
  • half made of wood.

These are just the types of rings that are most commonly found. The ring can also be ordinary jewelry, and only a “pearl” is made from epoxy resin.

The main requirement for fillers for products and wooden parts is that they must be completely dry. Even a small amount of moisture will cause the product to become cloudy from the inside. In dried form, any materials can be used, even organic materials, for example, insects to imitate amber.

What you need

To make epoxy rings, the craftsman will need a set of certain items and tools. The list can be adjusted depending on the selected pattern.

First you should prepare your work area. To do this, you will need a table, which must be covered with oilcloth or cellophane. Such measures will protect the surface from accidental ingress of particles of resin, hardener or other components.

It is necessary to work in a well-ventilated area; high-quality ventilation is one of the most important components of worker safety.

The workplace is located:

  • epoxy resin and hardener, can be bought as a craft kit;
  • mixing container, a regular plastic cup is enough for one ring;
  • a form for pouring the composition, a cardboard box wrapped with tape, or a special silicone one;
  • dye to give the desired color to the ring;
  • wooden sticks (spatulas) for stirring the composition;
  • wood shavings, glitter, dried flowers or other filler;
  • sandpaper of different grits (P60-P2500);
  • drill with a drill, with a crown or a cutter;
  • pliers and thin-nosed pliers;
  • round file;
  • linseed oil or polishing paste.

Today, fashionable rings made of epoxy resin are quite popular; they have a variety of shapes, as well as various additives and fillers, and the resin can be given any color. You can put shavings, glitter, or some kind of insect into the blank, everything turns out very beautiful and interesting, and most importantly unique, which comes first in our difficult times.

Despite the apparent complexity, the whole technology is quite simple and understandable, you just need to delve into the process a little and you can make yourself a dozen rings of different sizes)))

The base is epoxy resin and hardener in a ratio of 10/1, glitter and wood shavings are added. First, the required amount of resin is poured into the container, then glitter is added to it and everything is thoroughly mixed, then the shavings and stirred again. The epoxy resin is painted with color; you should add a little at a time at the tip of a toothpick, stirring to catch the desired color. The hardener is added last in a ratio of 1/10 of the total proportion of resin, that is, for example, 10 grams of resin and 1 gram of hardener, everything is mixed very thoroughly.

So, let's look at what exactly is needed to make an epoxy resin ring?

Materials

1. epoxy resin
2. hardener
3. glitter
4. wood shavings
5. color

Tools

1. container for preparing the solution (plastic cups)
2. silicone mold
3. emery
4. pliers
5. drill
6. round file
7. waterproof sandpaper with grain 600/1200/2500 grid
8. mini grinder
9. caliper

Step-by-step instructions for making a ring from epoxy resin with your own hands.

The first step is to prepare all the components so that everything is at hand during the work, you also need to wear gloves made of latex or mica, because the resin is very sticky, and the hardener is aggressive; if it gets on exposed skin, you can get burned, so safety comes first Total. A respirator is also a mandatory safety measure against fumes of resin and hardener; in small quantities, of course, it’s not so scary, but still..

To fill the blanks, it is best to use a silicone mold, because it is very easy to remove the filled figures later and nothing sticks; you can also make the mold out of paper and cover the inside with tape, which is also a good option for starting work)
It is advisable to spread mica or a simple bag on the table so that drops of resin, color and hardener do not stain the surface of the table.

After which the author pours epoxy resin into the container, adds glitter and makes it smooth, then wood shavings, adding color a little at a time on the tip of a toothpick so as not to overdo it with contrast. In this case, the author used 3 dyes: black, blue and green.

Everything is mixed very thoroughly.

Attention important point! A hardener is added to the finished solution, 1/10 of the total share of epoxy resin, mixed and poured from glass to glass several times so that the hardener and resin are thoroughly mixed; if this is not done, the solution will not harden completely and the workpiece will be sticky. Mix everything thoroughly!

Next is important! It is necessary to expel air bubbles from the solution, and the author does this using a homemade vacuum installation. That is, a glass of resin is placed in a jar and air is pumped out from there within 10 minutes. Additionally, the resin can be heated in a water bath to 50-60 o C
this way it will become even more elastic and air bubbles will come out much faster.

Epoxy resin with an added hardener hardens after 24 hours; the hardened workpieces come out of the silicone mold quite easily.

These are the blanks for making rings. The work is very dusty, so we change into work clothes and protective equipment: respirator, goggles, gloves.

Then we begin to sand the ring from the inside, sandpaper was used with 2500/1600/600 grit. It is necessary from the inside, because the degree of polishing of the product will be determined by the inside.

The outer part of the ring is sanded with waterproof sandpaper.

Starting with coarse grain and gradually reducing to 600.

Polish the ring with a burr with polishing paste. The author bought it at a car dealership.

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