When the greenhouse frame is completely covered and the building takes on its final form, it seems that the desired finish is already on the horizon. But this is only half the battle - next in line is the arrangement of the polycarbonate greenhouse inside, on which the quality of the harvest depends almost to the same extent as on all the previous stages. How to create conditions for growing plants through proper planning, what should be in a country greenhouse, what options, in addition to traditional beds, are applicable for subsidiary farming?

Basic rules for arranging a greenhouse

You can get an idea of ​​what the proper internal structure of a greenhouse should be like by walking around an industrial greenhouse. On such a scale, the slightest planning error results in a significant deterioration of conditions, an increase in the costs of maintaining them and, as a consequence, an increase in the cost of the final product.

Ideal conditions for plants

What to consider when planning

For small greenhouses, losses are not so painful, but they can also be avoided if you listen to a few basic recommendations:

• initially build a greenhouse for a specific purpose - cultivation of seedlings, flowers, tree seedlings, common or exotic vegetable crops;
• consider the method of growing and watering - it may be more profitable to replace the beds with containers, straw bags or hydroponics;
• in the project, foresee in advance whether the polycarbonate greenhouse will be heated, and if so, what type of fuel;
• analyze whether the future structure needs artificial lighting and forced ventilation systems, and where they should be best located.

Industrial projects make the most of space

Thus, proper organization of space inside largely depends on the availability of a specific greenhouse plan. By compactly planning the premises, you will receive a structure that is fully functioning in accordance with agronomic tasks and does not occupy an unreasonable amount of space.

In fact, it often happens that they begin to think about how to equip a polycarbonate greenhouse inside once it is ready. In this case, it is necessary to determine the location for the equipment, leave enough space for crops to grow, and ensure that people working inside do not experience inconvenience based on the existing conditions.

It is important to provide access to the far edge

Minimum set of equipment

Given the small dimensions of the greenhouse and its operation only in the off-season, you can get by with ordinary windows and manual watering. However, keep in mind that such a greenhouse, although cheaper in cost, will require maximum attention and effort in care. To equip the structure correctly and make your life much easier, you only need to add two devices:

• automatic pusher - helps maintain the internal temperature at a given level by opening and closing the window at the right time;
• drip irrigation – provides a dosed supply of water directly to the root zone of plants and thereby saves time and energy.

Barrels for manual watering

To organize drip irrigation, think in advance where you will place the container with water - it must be raised 1-2 m above ground level and placed on a solid foundation. The best place inside is in the darkest corner, and with a U-shaped bed layout, at the end of the path. To save space, the barrel can be installed outside, but in the morning the water in it will be cold and you will have to water it in the evening.

In the middle and northern regions of the country, daylight hours are short, and to obtain extra-early or extra-late production, additional illumination is necessary. Its use reduces the harvest time, but at the same time increases monthly costs and requires the selection of high-quality lighting installations - fluorescent, LED, infrared or others.

Automatic watering

It is important to distribute the lamps at a height that provides sufficient lighting, but eliminates the risk of burning plants:

• incandescent lamps - no closer than 1 m;
• sodium illuminators with a power of 400 W - approximately 2 m;
• luminescent - 30 cm;
• LED - installation near the seedling is acceptable.

Lighting equipment

Of course, these distances are indicated approximately, since the distribution of lamps depends on many factors - the light-loving nature of the crop, the size of the illuminated area, the power of the devices, and so on.

Ventilation and heating of a greenhouse

With the onset of heat, excess heat and moisture quickly accumulate inside a polycarbonate greenhouse, and a ventilation system is needed to remove them. This can be done in two ways:

• natural;
• forced.

Natural air circulation is ensured by open doors and vents. The number of the latter is determined by the length of the greenhouse: for every 2 m, one window measuring 900x600 mm is required, for the entire total area - 25% of openings. It is important to place them on top of the building so that the plants do not suffer from drafts.

If you are building a large building (longer than 6 m), you will need fans that turn on during hot, low-wind periods and create uniform wind flows. For arranging forced ventilation inside a polycarbonate greenhouse, devices with a high degree of protection from moisture are suitable. In domestic buildings they are usually installed at both ends above the doors: one is circulation, the other is exhaust.

Year-round and very early cultivation of vegetables, berries or flowers is impossible without technical heating. Depending on your preferred heating fuel type, you can set:

• electric convectors and IR heaters;
• heated floors - electric or water;
• gas, solid fuel boiler and pipe system with coolant.

Providing ventilation

A boiler in a polycarbonate winter greenhouse requires a vestibule - it not only prevents heat loss during entry and exit, but also ensures uniform heating inside. It is also convenient to store equipment and greenhouse accessories. However, if you do not want to change the layout of the structure, but are ready to protect the plantings from boiler heat with a casing made of metal or brickwork, you can do without a separate extension.

Layout options and possibilities

From the rational distribution of technical equipment, move on to the layout of the greenhouse. The design can be either familiar - in the form of various beds, or more modern, based on the use of shelves and racks. Think about the layout in advance, preferably in a sketch and in several versions. When looking for the best, consider how comfortable it will be for you to plant and care for plants, taking into account their height.

Design of space for ground work

When deciding what the internal structure of the greenhouse should be, start from its configuration:

• in a long structure 2 m wide, it is convenient to organize two ridges of 0.6 or 0.7 m each with a central passage between them 0.6–0.8 m wide;
• the wide (3–4 m) gable design allows you to make three beds - one in the center (the widest is up to 1.2 m, since it has access from both sides) and two side, narrower ones (up to 1 m), with such layout, separate them with paths of 0.5–0.7 m;
• In the center of a domed polycarbonate greenhouse, it is logical to install irrigation equipment or a raised bed, and around them around the circumference to arrange a concentric ridge, separated by a passage.

Arched greenhouse inside

Recently, smart beds according to Mittlider have become popular. They are narrow strips 0.45 m wide, limited on the sides by boards or earthen sides. The width of the passage ranges from 0.85–1.05 m. With such dimensions, the cold does not linger in the passages, and the soil inside the beds warms up faster.

The photo inside the polycarbonate greenhouse shows how simply the beds are arranged “American style”, but at the same time they provide a lot of advantages:

• suitable for indoor gardens of any size;
• limit the territory for feeding and feeding;
• allow you to use land economically and plan the harvest;
• facilitate physical labor and reduce water consumption.

Layout of narrow areas for planting

Even if you do not take into account foreign methods, it is also better to place beds of standard width not on the ground, but at a height of 0.2 to 0.8 m. Determine how much to raise them in your case, based on theses:

• the earlier you plan to harvest, the higher you raise the soil;
• raised ridges are the optimal solution for high groundwater levels;
• with limited watering, it is not recommended to arrange beds higher than 0.2 m;
• the optimal height of a warm biobed is 75 cm (15 cm – sawdust, 30 cm – manure, 30 cm – fertile soil).

Beds for tomatoes

When forming ridges, do not be lazy to check their horizontalness. A tilt that is not noticeable to the naked eye can lead to uneven distribution of moisture and nutrients, resulting in the loss of part of the crop.

Beds and paths - photo examples

Before setting up a greenhouse inside, it is always useful to study the experience of advanced vegetable growers. In the photos that are usually shared on gardening forums, you can see the solution you are looking for, fortunately, almost all greenhouses have standard shapes and dimensions. One of such finds can be considered the Pikalevsky method of planning.

Schematic arrangement of beds according to Pikalevsky for greenhouses of different sizes:

Arrangement of beds in a greenhouse 3.2x4.1 m

Layouts with wide beds are still popular, especially if small plants are grown (carrots, onions, parsley), the yield of which directly depends on the sowing area.

Conservatively minded summer residents are inclined to the classic arrangement scheme - moderately wide beds with small passages. The rows are separated by homemade or specially purchased boards made of wooden boards treated with an antiseptic, concrete, brick, galvanized metal.

Making a mini-garden from blocks

The methods of designing paths are no less varied - in order to avoid slipping on wet ground, they are not left open, but covered with sawdust, crushed stone or sand, cemented, and laid with paving slabs.

Walkway covered with crumb rubber

Arrangement of a rack greenhouse

If you want to grow berries, flowers, herbs or seedlings, the inside of a polycarbonate greenhouse may look a little different. For low-growing plants, shelving space organization is excellent, thanks to which even in a small greenhouse with problem soil you can get a harvest sufficient for both your own consumption and for sale.

Before equipping the inside of a polycarbonate greenhouse with shelving, thoroughly prepare the floor in one of the following ways:

• fill with concrete (the entire area is not necessary, columnar supports are sufficient);
• lay out with brick or tile;
• install a strip base made of boards or timber (suitable for greenhouses on clay soils).

Metal corner shelving

To make the frame of the rack structure, select the material:

• wood is cheap and easy to process, but requires constant care and cleaning from pests;
• metal profile - only galvanized material is suitable, which cannot be welded, and assembling the structure with fastening hardware will take a lot of time;
• brick - it makes a heavy structure that shades the sun, but it increases the amount of stored solar heat;
• pipes made of polypropylene or PVC are light and quite durable; they, however, can be used to install small-sized drawers or shelves, and the purchase of transition elements will cost a considerable amount.

Shelves for growing herbs

The algorithms for arranging shelving made of any material are similar:

1. Build racks, the length of which depends on the overall height of the rack.
2. Make crossbars for the top trim.
3. If necessary, strengthen the crossbars with jibs.
4. Loosely lay a flooring made of planks or reinforcing rods on the top tier.
5. Use the same method to build the lower tier.
6. To organize the third level, attach pots to the crossbars of the greenhouse frame.

Convenient wooden rack

Select the height and width of the shelving structure according to the type of crop being grown. Take into account your height - it is convenient to care for plants inside the greenhouse when the upper tier is located at the level of the arm bent at the elbow or slightly lower, and you can reach the far edge without changing the position of the body.

Video: how to make beds in a greenhouse

You can learn about the pros and cons of a two- and three-row bed layout inside a greenhouse, not from your own experience, but from someone else’s experience. Two enthusiasts joined forces and spoke about their opinion on this issue in a video. Please note that in one of the examples presented, the beds are made in the old fashioned way - on the same level as the aisles.

Video: Pros and cons of different layouts

The second video shows how to quickly make beds with trellises for tall tomatoes or cucumbers in a three-meter greenhouse. To equalize the temperature of the soil inside the greenhouse, the author uses homemade heat accumulators from plastic bottles filled with water. During the day they heat up, and at night, when the structure cools down, they gradually release heat into the ground.

Video: Arranging beds with all-round access

Video: growing crops on racks

Shelving equipment inside a greenhouse does not have to be complex and bulky. See how you can grow strawberries on small pyramidal stands made from scrap material, and fill the remaining free space with bales for grape seedlings.

Video: Strawberries on racks and grapes in bags

The following video explains in detail how to grow berries in vertical structures - trukars. And another interesting technology demonstrates the possibilities of using racks for growing radishes in egg trays.

Video: What are trukars in a greenhouse

Video: How to grow early radishes on a shelf

Video: heated floor in a greenhouse

Heating the soil inside a greenhouse has a positive effect on the quality and quantity of the harvest, and the modern building materials market allows you to build heated floors for relatively little money. The principle of the device is simple: a drainage and insulating layer is laid on the floor of the greenhouse, on top of them is a heating cable or mats, which are covered with waterproofing and fertile soil.

Installation of the system requires that the contractor have electrical experience, and if he does not have it, it is better to order this service from specialists. The increase in costs is justified by safe operating conditions and a reduction in energy consumption for air heating of a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Video: Installation of soil heating, part 1

Video: Installation of soil heating, part 2

The long-awaited greenhouse has taken pride of place on your site, but it’s too early to relax. This is only the first step towards obtaining a high yield of agricultural crops. The next step is to properly arrange the inside of the greenhouse. The solution to the problem includes several points: from planning the beds to organizing the optimal temperature regime. The direction of work largely depends on the form of operation of the structure, whether vegetables will be grown there or the purpose of the greenhouse is to grow plants in pots, seedlings, and ornamental shrubs.

Design of greenhouse space for ground work

Giving preference to working with soil, it is right to start with designing the location of the beds. It is necessary to take into account their size and quantity, what crops are planned to be cultivated.

Marking beds

The number and size of rows directly depends on the area of ​​the greenhouse. It is better to equip small buildings with two parallel beds; wide structures allow you to divide three rows. The width of one bed should be properly arranged in the range from 1.0 to 1.5 meters. It all depends on the physical characteristics of the owner of the greenhouse and the location of the passages near it. The main guideline is the ability to care for plants without stepping on the soil. An excessively wide bed will inevitably force the amateur agronomist to stand on the ground, this is fraught with negative consequences:

• soil compaction provokes a lack of oxygen in the root system of plants due to deterioration of air circulation;
• the amount of work to care for plants increases due to the need for unscheduled loosening.

Designing a small greenhouse makes it possible to arrange one path between two rows of plants. Correctly calculating the width of the passage will allow taking into account all the needs for caring for agricultural products. During the growing process, it becomes necessary to carry buckets of fertilizers, remove weeds, remove crops, and at the same time not damage your land. Based on the experience of greenhouse owners, it is correct to arrange the minimum width of paths within half a meter. The desire to drive with a wheelbarrow will require an increase of another 20-30 cm. Of course, you can expand the passage up to a meter, but the use of usable space will be sharply reduced.

The spacious greenhouse allows you to arrange three rows of beds. The side strips should be correctly designed to be one meter wide, the central row reaches one and a half meters, since a two-way approach is provided to it. It is irrational to design paths of the same width; it is more correct to arrange one passage wide - for moving with a wheelbarrow, for the second the standard 50 cm will be enough.

Advice ! For ease of movement in the greenhouse, depending on the total length of the structure, properly arrange one or two transverse passages along the central bed. This function can be performed by ordinary flooring in the form of two boards or several bricks.

The geodesic greenhouse has a rather unusual shape. Place the beds inside under the dome correctly along the perimeter, their width reaches 1.2 m. In the center of the greenhouse you can install a reservoir of water that accumulates the energy of the sun's rays during the day and releases heat at night. If there are no technical capabilities or a modest budget, the container inside the greenhouse will successfully replace an ordinary round bed.

Path design

Considering the question of how to properly arrange the inside of a greenhouse, we will separately dwell on the design of the paths. It is impractical to leave the passage between the beds in its original form. Regular watering of plants allows moisture to seep throughout the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, and walking on soggy ground is extremely inconvenient. When choosing covering options, take into account the high humidity in the room, so properly equip the passages with material that ensures safe movement. Bricks or other stone products are organically suitable for these purposes. In addition to their aesthetic appearance, they are easy to clean and facilitate convenient movement.

Preparing the soil layer

It is impossible to equip the inside of a greenhouse correctly without high-quality soil. The soil requirements include the following:

• lightweight structure providing good ventilation;
• absence of harmful bacteria and weed seeds;
• saturation with useful substances;
• ability to absorb moisture at a high level;
• frost resistance.

Advice ! Raised beds can protect the root system of seedlings from frost in a greenhouse.

Experts recommend arranging a planting site with a minimum height of 20 cm from the ground surface. To do this, a board fence is installed along the edges of the passages, exceeding the planned planting level by 5-10 cm. It will serve as borders, prevent soil from crumbling and facilitate the work of caring for plants. The boards are installed edgewise and pegs are used to secure them. Correctly nail the board border to the support or install stakes on both sides of the fence. Finally, the surface is filled with soil that meets all the soil requirements intended for greenhouses. Agricultural crops require different soil compositions, so it is wise to purchase an option designed for a specific plant family or prepare the soil yourself.

If there is swampy or rocky soil, arrange the beds inside the greenhouse correctly in boxes. Their dimensions are similar to traditional rows: width 1.0-1.5 m, length varies depending on the area of ​​the greenhouse, height of the structure - 40 cm. They are filled with specially prepared or purchased soil. The key advantage of the method is rapid heating of the soil; among the disadvantages, there is an increased water consumption for irrigation.

Shelving configuration and arrangement

Greenhouse owners who prefer to breed seedlings or grow seedlings are recommended to equip the structure with shelving. This option allows you to make the most of the usable space with all sorts of shelf variations. The lower space can be conveniently equipped for storing household equipment. If your priority area of ​​work is growing indoor flowers and other plants in pots, properly arrange shelves with low sides. This will facilitate the process of supplying tubes for capillary irrigation. High sides will be required for rooting cuttings and planting seedlings.

Properly selected shelving sizes can ensure ease of work inside the greenhouse. The optimal width of the side shelves does not exceed 95 cm; the central structures can be arranged up to one and a half meters. The height of the racks directly depends on the height of the person involved in growing greenhouse crops. The height of the work surfaces in the kitchen will help you orient yourself correctly. At this level, it is better to arrange a shelf intended for the main area of ​​work on transplanting and picking plants. The number of passages inside the greenhouse depends on its size; their optimal width ranges from 40 to 70 cm. It is also worth taking into account the physical parameters of the greenhouse owner. To germinate seeds, properly arrange an area in one of the corners of the greenhouse, equipping it with lighting and insulating it with glass.

When breeding indoor plants inside a greenhouse, you should worry about organizing a quarantine zone. Purchasing a new plant carries the risk of introducing pests. A small area on the shelf, fenced with glass, will prevent the spread of unwanted microorganisms. An aquarium with a capacity of 100 liters with a tight-fitting lid is optimal for these purposes. Arrange it correctly in a shaded area, protecting plants from overheating.

Note! Quarantined crops require regular ventilation. It is better to carry out the procedure in the fresh air, eliminating the possibility of contamination of the soil inside the greenhouse.

Arrangement of the vestibule

Experts offer the option of modernizing a greenhouse using a vestibule. It performs two functions. First of all, it creates an air gap between the street and greenhouse air, preventing the formation of drafts. The second purpose is to create space for storing equipment. An old cabinet that can be locked with a key will make it possible to isolate all kinds of fertilizers and fertilizers from children or pets. And the appearance inside the greenhouse will not be spoiled by household equipment. If there is no desire to arrange a vestibule, install the cabinet correctly at the beginning of the greenhouse, reducing the time for collecting tools throughout the room.

If you want to diversify your personal diet, and, moreover, please your family with real natural vitamins before the next seasonal harvest appears, and with the right approach, even deliver fresh berries and vegetables to the table throughout the year, it is optimal to purchase a greenhouse or greenhouse from us, and if you have With certain skills and free time, you can build a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself. How to make a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself?

Of course, before you get down to business, you should think through the various parameters and nuances of the potential process, and thoroughly understand the question of how to create a greenhouse with your own hands:

• you need to decide how much area of ​​the site can be free;
• solve the issue of the functionality of the design, that is, will the greenhouse be relevant throughout the year or will it be used only in the spring. The year-round option requires a lot of effort and materials, because you will have to additionally provide heating, lighting, water and equip high-quality ventilation;
• then the type of structure and the materials from which it will be built are determined.

In order not to make a mistake in this case, it is better to consider the variations of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses

Nowadays there are many modifications of greenhouses and greenhouses, and based on the general principle of their arrangement, craftsmen create personal options, sometimes individual details for a given agricultural structure. Greenhouses are usually divided according to different criteria, for example, according to the forms and materials of release, stationarity, and also the time of construction.

Design features of greenhouses and greenhouses

The frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is usually made of boards, and the useful volume is formed thanks to a lid in the form of glazed frames; they can be opened if necessary. This solution is optimal for growing seedlings and herbs, so that all this appears on the table as early as possible.

A temporary type of greenhouse, installed only for the period from spring to summer, is considered to be a combination of a wooden frame, plastic film, and fiberglass reinforcement. This solution will last for quite a long time if you disassemble the structure into parts in winter and store everything indoors. As a result, you will simply replace the film with a new canvas; it is not difficult and not expensive.

Some craftsmen install a greenhouse in a large old barrel; it is also used in the spring, but it is not necessary to remove it from the site in winter, because the structure can serve as a flower bed, or even an open bed.

The next solution requires forced heating, and is used immediately after the snow has melted. The structure is made of boards, metal-plastic reinforcement, covered with plastic film, and in order to look after the plants, you can go right inside.

A permanent greenhouse is equipped with various necessary parts and a certain microclimate is created inside it, which guarantees the operation of the building throughout the year. To do this, it is enough to make a not particularly deep foundation, then a brick base, and thoroughly insulate everything.

Such a greenhouse can even be attached to one of the walls of the living space, then it will be easier to connect the system to communications. It is convenient to care for plants throughout the year if you have access to the greenhouse from your home.

In order to save on heating in the winter season, you can install a kind of greenhouse-thermos; a pit is dug for it, the depth of which is 1.7-2 m, then everything is covered with a transparent roof. The solution is interesting, but the main thing is to take care of the ventilation system. Of course, this option is labor-intensive in its own way, but the resulting design guarantees savings in energy costs.

What should the roof shape be?

Before you make a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands, you need to determine its shape; do not forget in any case that you will also need to install a roof, and this is an effective detail in growing plants. The most popular solutions:

• gable roof, greenhouses of this type are in demand, because they are really spacious and comfortable to be in, moreover, for both plants and gardeners. With proper design, installation and choice of material, the room will be illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. Greenhouses of this type are equipped as winter gardens, planting them not so much with vegetables, but with exotic plants. Of course, this option will be realized only when the proper conditions are organized, there are reliable heating systems, lighting and irrigation;

• arched roof, this solution for an arched greenhouse is extremely easy to install when compared with its gable counterpart. The bottom line is that a form covered with polycarbonate, or, alternatively, plastic film, ideally diffuses sunlight throughout the room, so the plants will receive maximum natural heat. Another important point in this case is that due to the arched shape, no precipitation in the form of snow remains on the roof, that is, it will not be deformed or damaged due to the increased load in the winter season;

• a pitched roof is ideal for greenhouses, which have one wall adjacent to a massive building, for example, a house, or even a large stone fence, always on the south side. You can really save money on the construction of this greenhouse, because one of its sides will be a finished wall, with the base itself attached to it. In addition to all that has been said, it will be extremely easy to carry out communications into the greenhouse. When designing a greenhouse with a pitched roof, you should choose the slope of the slope correctly, this is the only way snow will not lie on the surface of the roof, because the increased load will only damage the coating.

Basic material for greenhouse covering

When making a greenhouse at home, you need to understand that certain greenhouse designs require different materials, but usually they are united by one feature - the material for covering the walls, as well as the roof, must be transparent, transmitting a sufficient amount of light.

The table below contains information about the current physical, as well as technological, and, moreover, performance indicators of the three most popular materials. Namely polycarbonate, polyethylene film, and also classic silicate glass.

Technical and operational parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Difficulty of installation and weight	Light weight, self-supporting material. It makes it possible to reduce the number of frame parts and even completely abandon the foundation	Glass is a heavy material, therefore, if it is chosen for coating, the building must have a strong frame and a reliable foundation (foundation)	A very light material that needs to be securely fastened to the frame.
Durability	The practice-proven operational period of the coating is about 20-25 years, the manufacturer provides a guarantee for 10 years of its service. Polycarbonate, due to its rigidity, is itself an element of the load-bearing structure. Once secured, it does not cause deformation or distortion.	The material is durable if protected from the mechanical effects of heavy loads (snow and hail).	The service life of the film is very short, at best - 2-3 years, since it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
Noise insulation	The material, thanks to its cellular structure, dampens wind noise well.	If the installation is poor, the wind can penetrate into the greenhouse, and the glass can make ringing or rattling noises.	It creates almost no sound insulation, and in strong winds it rustles in the wind.
Appearance	The aesthetic and modern appearance of the material makes the greenhouse even, to a certain extent, a decorative element of a suburban area	The glass has a fairly neat appearance if installed according to all the rules.	The material looks neat only in the first year after it is fixed, then the film becomes cloudy and collapses, especially if it is left on the frame for the winter.
Safety	Polycarbonate is safe and does not break when dropped. It is 200 times stronger and at the same time 15 times lighter than fragile and quite heavy glass.	Glass shards are very dangerous if they fall into the soil, as they can cause serious injury. Therefore, for safety reasons, glass installation must be carried out in strict compliance with all safety rules.	From the point of view of causing injuries, it is completely safe.
Care	Dust is practically invisible on the surface of the material, and if it is heavily soiled, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.	Raindrops can linger on the surface of the glass, and then, when dry, they leave cloudy marks. To wash off these stains from the surface, you will have to make a lot of effort.	It is not recommended to wash the film, as cloudy stains will remain on it, which will prevent the penetration of light.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate perfectly insulates the room. Droplets formed as a result of condensation of rising evaporation flow down the walls of the greenhouse and do not fall on the plants or on the gardener’s head. The material transmits and diffuses sunlight very well. The heat generated by plants and soil does not escape through the greenhouse covers, and therefore the necessary greenhouse effect is formed.	Glass does not provide the same high thermal insulation as polycarbonate, so the greenhouse effect is significantly reduced. The material transmits light well, but does not scatter it, and low-quality glass often begins to act like a lens, which is undesirable for plant leaves.	The new dense film creates good thermal insulation, but after working for one season, it becomes thinner and cloudy, so it loses its ability to completely retain heat and transmit light.

Taking into account the indicated parameters, it is possible to determine the best material for a particular greenhouse or greenhouse, which will be more consistent with their design.

Careful preparation for the construction of a greenhouse, its placement on the site

In order for the planting in the greenhouse to receive the light it needs for development, and to receive it throughout the day, the structure should be correctly distributed and oriented on the site. The final harvest largely depends on how long the beds are illuminated with natural light. For this reason, it is customary to install greenhouses in open space, alternatively with a transparent plane to the south.

Having decided on the type of greenhouse or greenhouse, and having found the optimal place for it on the site, plus, having distributed personal forces and capabilities, you can proceed to drawing up a sketch, and also a small drawing.

Designing a greenhouse or greenhouse

It is not at all necessary to draw every detail using a ruler, given the strict rules of drawing art. If you are the owner and want to do everything on your own, the project is intended for you and your assistants; you can simply draw a greenhouse by hand in a projection in which you can see all sides of the building, then indicate the dimensions of the main parts on them. Marking is usually done using rope and pegs; they are simply driven in around the perimeter of the potential pit.

What do you need to know about the pit and foundation?

If you have chosen a thermos greenhouse that will function throughout the year, then before digging a pit, it is best to carefully remove the top fertile layer of soil from the area. This soil is transferred to an individual pile, then it will be placed in the beds of the greenhouse. When deepening a pit, you suddenly come across layers of clay located under the fertile base; it is also better to put it aside, separately from the mixed soil.

Clay will pay off when adobe bricks are produced; they will be used to insulate the greenhouse. The depth of the pit should reach at least 1.7 m, but most often it is deepened to 2 m. It is at this distance that the natural geothermal heat that comes from the ground is preserved, thus the soil never freezes. Naturally, if a greenhouse is not equipped in the northern regions of the country, there is always permafrost there, even at shallow depths.

As for the width of the pit, the optimal figure is 2-5 m, and the length is determined based on desire. You cannot make the greenhouse wider, because it will quickly cool down, and heating and lighting will require a huge amount of electrical and other energy. Apart from the pit itself, a smooth descent is made, where as a result the entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed. If the place is marked for an all-season version of the greenhouse, it is optimal to dig a trench there for a strip foundation, up to 0.3 m wide and deep.

This is really enough, since the structure is not heavy, so there is minimal load on the foundation. In height, directly above the ground, it is optimal to raise the foundation by 0.2-0.5 m, although sometimes only 0.1 m is poured, the rest of the wall is built from brick if necessary. Then sand is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 0.5-0.7 m, then crushed stone in an identical layer. Afterwards, formwork is installed along the trench, with a slight recess into it, and as a result it is filled with concrete mortar. You should make sure that the concrete lies tightly and there is no air in it; to avoid problems, it is optimal to carry out bayoneting by piercing the poured mortar with a bayonet shovel.

Sometimes it happens that support posts made of metal pipes are built into the foundation; other parts of the greenhouse or greenhouse will eventually be attached to them. It is possible that the basis for the greenhouse can be a wooden frame made of timber; it is treated with an antiseptic and installed on a sand cushion.

Installation of greenhouses

Everything is clear with the base, you can move on to installing the option you like.

Greenhouse or greenhouse on a wooden frame

A greenhouse that does not require a concrete foundation, where the base is a strong wooden frame, is installed without any particular difficulties:

A base box made of timber, with a cross-section of 20x15 cm, is laid on a smooth, prepared platform, covered with sand. The base should be in close contact with the surface of the earth over the entire area. For this reason, if, when laying the frame, a gap appears between it and the surface, it is better to seal it with a stone lining. It is imperative to level the frame, otherwise the greenhouse will be uneven and its operation will be unstable.

After you level the box, you need to drive 0.7 m long pieces of reinforcement into the ground at its inner corners; this measure is important to fix the base in one place.

The next stage is driving in reinforcement along the long side of the box, moreover, 0.7-0.8 m should go into the ground, and 0.6-0.7 m should remain on the surface. The reinforcement should be at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from each other, moreover, opposite similar rods installed on the other side of the box, since this is the basis for securing the pipes.

Pre-prepared metal-plastic pipes of the required length should be placed on the surface part of the reinforcement. A kind of arcade is formed, which will serve as the basis for a transparent coating.

To ensure that the pipes stay tightly in one place, it is better to strengthen them with metal loops that are screwed to the box with self-tapping screws.

If the structure is voluminous, it is better to strengthen it well at the end sides; they should stand rigidly. This frame not only guarantees rigidity, but also forms the doorway.

To do this, you need to place the bars vertically, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm, then fasten everything in several places with horizontal crossbars. Sometimes, assuming that transverse fastenings are indispensable, pipes for arches are connected with cross adapters, and horizontal sections of pipes are installed in them.

Another option for imparting full rigidity to the structure is to fasten the arcade at the top of the vault with a single pipe.

Fastening can be done with wire or plastic clamps, construction tape or “ties”.

The frame, which is formed from pipes, must be covered with thick polyethylene film, it is laid out with an overlap of 0.2-0.25 m. In the lower part, the film is attached with construction staples and a stapler to a wooden box. Initially, the film is well stretched over the arcade, then attached to the end sides; at the doors, the material is folded into the greenhouse.

The door itself should be light, but be a rigid structure. It is usually created from a 0.5 x 0.3 m block, plus to prevent deformation, a pair of slats are attached diagonally. Then the resulting fabric is covered with plastic film. It is customary to hang the door on a previously prepared opening using hinges. Window openings are installed exactly like this part; they are located almost under the ceiling, on the opposite side of the door. This will ensure natural flowing air circulation.

Features of a thermos greenhouse

Construction of foundations for walls

After the pit for the greenhouse is ready, a strip foundation is created along its perimeter. To do this, a trench must be dug, then various actions are carried out, identical to those described earlier, where we were talking about the foundation for a winter greenhouse.

When the foundation is completely ready, the walls begin to be laid; we must not forget about installing one or two ventilation pipes. They are installed in the lower part of the end side of the building, opposite the entrance door, at a height of 0.5 m from the floor.

After installing the roof, it is customary to raise the pipes to a height directly above the ground, at least 1 m.

Proper wall laying

The walls are usually laid from adobe, foam concrete blocks, sometimes from permanent formwork made from polystyrene foam blocks; their cavities must be filled with cement mortar. If the latter option is the most relevant, you can immediately get insulated walls, but in this case it is valuable to separate the structure from the ground with plastic film. As soon as the stone walls are erected, the gap between the soil and the masonry should be sealed with clay, while compacting it well. The diagram of the greenhouse-thermos is clear in the lower figure.

The walls need to be raised from the foundation above the ground by at least 0.5-0.6 m. If permanent formwork was not used for them, then everything should be optimally insulated to the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the regional climatic conditions where the greenhouse is being built.

Insulation can be installed on the outside of the wall, that is, between it and the ground. For this reason, the gap between them will have to be widened, then the insulation will have to be separated from the ground using a waterproof film. When the insulation is polystyrene foam, it will rise above the ground surface, in particular, from the outside of the building, while it is important to waterproof everything, then seal it with an external decorative coating. It is optimal if it turns out to be a material that does not rot when moisture comes into contact with it. For example, a plastic lining will do.

Closing the insulation can be done using another method, for example, covering the entire outside with expanded clay and covering it with roofing material on top. In this case, corrugated sheeting is justified; it is attached below the polycarbonate, or even glazing. In this case, polyethylene film for covering the roof will pay off.

Frame installation

The next stage will be the installation of a frame to cover the walls, and also the ceiling, with polycarbonate, because its installation is simple and safe.

Initially, the bars are laid and secured with anchors on the walls that are raised from the pit; their cross-sectional size is literally 10-15 cm.

The rafters, as well as the ridge beams, should have a similar cross-sectional size as the beams mounted on the walls. A sparse sheathing is attached to the rafters, literally 2-3 bars per slope. In this case, it is needed to guarantee the rigidity of the structure. Then polycarbonate sheets are attached to the sheathing. They are attached with certain self-tapping screws with a large head, in other words, a press washer, and also a rubber gasket.

Upon completion of the installation of the roof covering, the end walls of the greenhouse are finished with polycarbonate, then the finished door is installed. It’s great if it has a glazed part. In addition to all this, the upper part of the ventilation, a kind of hole, is installed almost under the roof itself, and a pipe is attached there.

How to strengthen the structure?

It is important to focus on the fact that you need to leave the part of the roof that faces south open to sunlight, because the sun spends more time there during the day. Another roof slope from the inside of the greenhouse is covered with foil insulation, which will reflect the light falling on it through the transparent part of the roof. For this purpose, it is optimal to use foamed polyethylene, the thickness of which is 5 mm, with a foil part.

Fastening occurs to the roof rafters thanks to self-tapping screws with a wide head. At the junction, the insulation must be folded onto the wall. In a similar way, it is customary to insulate the walls of a greenhouse; the material is fastened on vertical stone planes with liquid nails, or even a sheathing of thin slats is installed on the wall, plus polyethylene foam is secured with self-tapping screws.

The purpose of the foil coating is not simply to reflect light into the space, but also to conserve carbon dioxide, heat and moisture, which are vital during the photosynthesis that occurs in plants.

How to organize heating in a greenhouse?

To prevent heat from escaping outside the greenhouse or greenhouse for a long time, it is customary to install doors on the ventilation openings. The room can be heated in different ways, for example, with an electrical “warm home” system, then with convectors and a long-burning stove. And if the greenhouse is located near the house, it is possible to install water heating directly from a gas boiler into it.

If a “warm floor” system is installed, then before placing it, you need to prepare the bottom of the greenhouse, because energy can be wasted in the ground. The system should be installed under the beds, although if necessary it can be placed under the paths between them.

Preparation takes place in stages:

• a heat-insulating sheet is applied to the ground; it’s good if it contains foil;
• be sure to pour a layer of sand about 5 cm thick;
• a reinforcing mesh is placed on top, the cell size of which is 3x3 cm;
• then the heating cable is fixed;
• it is covered with a sand cushion of 5 cm;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid again;
• 30-40 cm of soil is placed on it.

Each layer is laid in formed beds, with bricks or boards protruding as sides. The beds are usually arranged along the walls, but if the greenhouse or greenhouse is wide, then an additional line is installed in the middle. It is good to create the beds at a slight angle, so the soil surface will be slightly turned towards the transparent roof slope on the south side. Quite often lately convectors have been installed in greenhouses for heating.

They really have many advantages that are ideal directly for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• They dry the air minimally, compared to other heaters, because they are designed in such a way that they create artificial circulation of warm air;
• easy to install, just hang the convector on a bracket mounted on the wall, plug it into a power outlet, and set the temperature level on the regulator;
• I’m pleased that there is an automatic mode for turning the heater on and off, taking into account the selected temperature, this saves energy;
• The device is small, with an aesthetically modern look.

Before purchasing a convector for heating a large space, it is better to look at the characteristics of the device, take into account the power, then it will become clear how many heaters are needed for your area. Another heating solution is a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit.

To install such a system, you will have to do a lot of work:

• First, the boiler is installed, its installation is carried out directly in the greenhouse, or even in an adjacent room;
• you need to build a chimney that can be raised to a height of at least 5 m;
• for the pipe to pass through the hole equipped for it, it is better to isolate the combustible materials of the greenhouse from the high temperature during the heating of the boiler;
• it is important to calculate the correct slope of the circuit pipes, then install supply and return pipes for the coolant, most importantly, correctly distributing the radiators;
• the system needs to be filled with water, then a temperature sensor must be installed directly in the greenhouse.

The installation of the described system is probably really complicated in comparison with other analogues, in particular, if we draw a parallel with the converter heating system.

When heating the greenhouse, it is important to note that for normal development and growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at +25...+30 degrees, and the soil temperature should reach +20...+25 degrees. Moreover, it is important to maintain a normal level of humidity in the room.

What will a greenhouse or greenhouse look like on a foundation?

A greenhouse mounted on a strip foundation will easily function throughout the year if the necessary conditions are there.

Accordingly, the assembly of the building is carried out extremely carefully, because it must be generally airtight, not counting, of course, the installed ventilation system. For the frame, it is optimal to prefer wood, since it conducts cold minimally, in comparison with a metal profile, it is guaranteed to create “cold bridges.”

The frame for this version of the greenhouse is installed in stages:

• waterproofing material, mainly classic roofing felt, is laid on adobe or stone plastered walls that are 0.5-0.7 m above the ground;
• thick wooden beams are attached to it with anchors, their width depends on the walls, and their height ranges from 5 to 15 cm;
• It is better to seal the gaps between walls and beams, or even metal profiles, with polyurethane foam;
• further work depends on what material will be the main one in the greenhouse, it may be a ready-made metal-plastic frame, or the foundation of a metal or wooden frame;
• then double- or triple-glazed windows are installed in metal-plastic frames, wooden frames with glass or double-glazed windows are installed in a wooden frame, polycarbonate is usually attached to a metal analogue.

The foundation, then the floor and the lower level of the greenhouse wall must be insulated. For this reason, in this case, it is better to prefer a “warm floor”, its structure is described above, and in addition you need to install high-quality converter heating. It will maintain the temperature in the room.

If the greenhouse is located in a cold region where there is a lot of snow in winter, then when clearing the yard of snowdrifts, it is better to pile the snow right next to the walls; it will serve as insulation and will make it possible to save on heating costs in the winter. For walls, it is better to prefer thick glass, about 5-7 mm, or even cellular polycarbonate, 10-15 mm. The honeycomb material has an air gap between the main planes, all of which works like insulation.

Lighting organization

Any greenhouse that is used in winter must be additionally illuminated, thus, the room will appear in a spring state, due to the fact that the length of daylight hours, as well as the intensity of winter solar radiation, will be really small.

In order to save energy in the form of lighting fixtures, it is possible to use lamps with LEDs. They are sometimes of different shapes, but are located only at the highest point of the ceiling. Naturally, if desired, it is possible to install classic lamps; they are mounted at the junction of the roof and walls, or, alternatively, high up directly on the walls.

To adjust the lighting hourly, it is possible to install a control unit with a specific timer, set on it the time when the light in the greenhouse needs to be turned on and off. The described system will make it possible to save energy and create extremely comfortable conditions for plants.

If a greenhouse or hotbed is needed only for the spring-summer period, it is not difficult to justify it, because no special insulation conditions or lighting are required. The winter option, in turn, is extremely complex, especially in calculations and construction, and in everyday use in general. Typically, these complexes are arranged by those people who professionally grow flowers and vegetables, and some exotic plants. Thus, they simply cannot do without a comfortable room with a special microclimate. All these maintenance costs will pay off over time when the sale of plants or fruits begins.

Greenhouses are the best structures for growing fruit and vegetable crops on protected soil. By design, it consists of a frame and a coating that transmits light (propylene, glass or film). In addition, the structure must have windows, doors and vents for maintenance and ventilation. Also, some walls can be sheathed with boards or covered with bricks for additional protection and insulation.

It’s easy to build greenhouses with your own hands from scrap materials, but at the same time such structures have fairly high functionality and allow you to grow vegetables, fruits and herbs all year round.

How to make a greenhouse at home

Many greenhouse owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to use a conventional structure in the cold season. It’s worth noting right away that without special equipment for heating and ventilation, a conventional structure will not be suitable for growing vegetables and fruits (Figure 1). Based on this, it is worth asking the question of how to build a greenhouse for winter growing fresh vegetables and herbs.

Figure 1. Types of winter greenhouses

In general, all greenhouses are built according to the same principle: first they build a foundation, then a frame, after which they begin cladding and installing the necessary equipment. But when building winter types, there are certain features that we will describe below.

Conditions

A winter greenhouse can be made either single-sloped or double-sloped, and the structure can be either adjacent to the house or located at some distance from it. But it should be taken into account that wall structures are more suitable for small farms, since the wall of the house will protect the structure from the cold and reduce heating costs.

Before construction, you need to choose an area with maximum sun exposure. To do this, it is better to place the building from east to west: this way the plants in it will receive a sufficient amount of light, although lamps will still have to be used for additional lighting. In addition, if cold winds are often observed in your region, you need to provide wind protection: locate the room near another building or plant a hedge a few meters away from it.

Peculiarities

The technology for constructing a winter greenhouse is typical, but still has some features that help retain heat for normal crop growth.

If you are interested in how to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands, be sure to take into account the following rules:

• The foundation must be strong and high enough so that cold from the ground does not penetrate into the structure;
• Inside, it is advisable to arrange warm beds with a special soil mixture (sand, turf soil and humus);
• Heating and lighting devices must be installed to create an optimal microclimate inside. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system, and it is better to use stove or gas heating.

Figure 2. Marking the foundation

At the same time, it is necessary to equip all life support systems with automation so that growing crops indoors requires minimal human intervention.

DIY greenhouses from scrap materials

The construction of a greenhouse begins with marking the location for the foundation. To do this, take a cord and several stakes and mark one of the side walls. Stick the stake into the ground, measure the required length and pull the cord. After this, use a square to determine the location of the end wall, measure its length and insert another peg. The remaining stakes are placed using the same principle, and a cord is pulled between them. Next, we check the angles and measure the diagonals (they should be the same). Detailed instructions for marking and building the foundation are given in Figure 2.

Which covering material is better?

It is impossible to build a greenhouse without the correct selection of covering material. Many people prefer to use ordinary plastic film for this purpose, but this material is far from the most successful of those presented on the modern market.

Figure 3. Types of covering materials: film, glass and polycarbonate

Let's try to figure out which material is best to use as a covering for the frame (Figure 3).

The use of glass is considered a fairly popular method of making cladding. For example, you can make a small greenhouse from old window frames, but if the greenhouse is large, you will have to order glass for it separately, and they are quite expensive. Despite the high cost, this design will last a very long time, and the glass itself is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, can easily withstand the heavy weight of snow and helps maintain a stable temperature inside the structure.

Note: Film coating is considered a more economical option, but it is not durable enough. Regular film can last only one season, so for more durable buildings it is better to choose reinforced film, which does not need to be replaced for 6-8 years. In this case, it is advisable to fasten the film so that it is not damaged by sharp corners.

The best coating is considered to be polycarbonate. This is a lightweight and durable material that allows sufficient sunlight to pass through while retaining heat inside the structure. Since it is quite expensive, it is worth buying it only if the room will be used constantly.

Greenhouses: how to make soil for planting

The abundance of the harvest largely depends on the quality of the soil used for growing plants. It is impossible to pour ordinary soil from the garden onto the beds, as it may contain weed seeds and pathogens of dangerous diseases that will destroy the plants.

Note: If it is not possible to prepare a special soil mixture for the greenhouse, and ordinary garden soil will be used for the beds, it is advisable to disinfect it using special preparations (for example, Inta-Vir).

But, if you want to get a really rich harvest, you still have to spend a little time making a suitable soil mixture. The most fertile substrate is considered to be one that contains one part each of peat, humus, turf soil and sawdust. This soil is quite light and fertile, so additional fertilizer is required only at the stage of direct cultivation of crops. But, as in the case of ordinary garden soil, it is advisable to disinfect the mixture before laying it on the beds.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood

Depending on the design, greenhouses can be single-pitched, gable, hipped, arched, wall-mounted, pit-built, or be part of the house. In addition, they can be stationary (the structure cannot be disassembled) or portable.

Additionally, they are divided by type of coating (film and glazed) and heating method (heated by the sun or equipment).

When choosing a form, you should take into account the location of the building relative to parts of the world, other buildings on the territory, as well as the purpose and shading. The optimal location is one in which the southern part of the horizon is visible from the entrance. To do this, imagine that you are standing with your back to the entrance. If positioned correctly, the sun will pass from east to west in a clockwise direction. The transparent wall should be oriented to the south, since in this case the maximum amount of light will get inside.

Note: The location of the greenhouse on the cardinal points is important only if the walls (all or several) are made of opaque material. If it is completely covered with film or glass, these indicators do not play a decisive role.

If the building is shaded by trees or neighboring buildings (for example, in a small area), its northern side is made of opaque material that will prevent hypothermia inside the building. To improve the reflection of heat and light, the roof is made transparent, and one of the walls is covered with white paint or a reflective screen.

Each type of greenhouse has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages(Figure 4):

• Single and double slope- one of the most popular. They are rectangular and can be placed in any part of the site, and the internal space is used almost completely. If a structure of this type is built on a foundation and equipped with heating devices, crops can be grown all year round. The only drawback of single- and double-slope types is the rather complex construction and the need to purchase a large amount of materials.
• Arched They are easier to build, but they are not intended for long-term use due to the insufficiently strong frame. However, the streamlined shape makes it resistant to gusts of wind, and the condensation that collects inside drips onto the ground and not onto the plants. In addition, it is difficult to grow garden plants in an arched greenhouse (special shelves are equipped for them). Additional costs will be incurred by ventilation equipment, since standard side ventilation is not suitable for this type.
• Wall mounted Greenhouses and residential buildings are primarily used as winter gardens. They are more economically beneficial, since the heat in them is maintained by heating the house. The disadvantage is that to grow full-fledged plants, additional lighting equipment will be required.
• pit There are single and double slopes. Their main feature is that the side walls are made of brick and immersed in the ground. Thanks to this, heating costs are significantly saved.

Figure 4. Main types of greenhouses: 1 - single-slope, 2 - gable, 3 - arched, 4 - wall

If the greenhouse will be used not only for growing crops, but also as a decoration for a personal plot, it can be made polygonal. But in this case, construction costs increase significantly.

What is needed for this

Building a greenhouse with your own hands from wood is quite simple, because it requires a minimum of knowledge, tools and materials (Figure 5).

A frame is built from wood, which is then covered with glass or film. The main condition is to properly prepare and process the wood. The beams that will be used to build the frame are cleaned of dust and dirt, washed with clean water and dried. After this, they need to be sanded and treated with an antiseptic solution to prevent early rotting.

Figure 5. Construction of a greenhouse made of wood with your own hands

The beams are fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws, and after the structure is completely ready, it needs to be painted, painting not only the wood, but also the metal parts.

Where is the best place to place it?

When planning the placement of a greenhouse on a site, you need to take into account the prevailing winds and the movement of the sun. In order for the plants inside the structure to be illuminated as much as possible by the sun, it is better to place it from east to west.

If your region often experiences strong winds, it is advisable to install the structure near other buildings or large trees. At the same time, too much shading of the structure should not be allowed.

Foundation

When marking the area for the foundation, use a level, since the ground must be absolutely level. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the frame, and if its parts can be adjusted and mounted, the structure will be subject to overload and the frame may become deformed.

Note: According to the rules, the room must have a slight slope for water drainage, but even when constructing small structures this rule may not be followed.

After marking, you can begin building the foundation. It must be very durable, since it not only supports the weight of the greenhouse itself, but also protects the plants from cold air and pests. As a rule, ready-made collapsible structures include materials for building a foundation (beams or pipes). But they are not strong enough and do not protect against frost and rodents. Therefore, it is recommended to lay it out of concrete or brick. The width must be at least 10 cm, and it should be placed below the freezing level of the soil.

You can also use special blocks to build the foundation. They are hollow inside, so after installation the inside is filled with concrete. They also use curb stone laid on a layer of concrete. Options for foundation construction are shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6. Options and order of foundation construction

If the foundation is high (for example, located at a height of 30 cm from ground level), it will be inconvenient to bring or bring fertilizers and water inside. In this case, decking is installed at the entrance or the door is lowered to ground level, using the free space to equip shelves on which seedlings can later be grown.

Additionally, it is covered with waterproofing material to retain heat inside. During construction, care should also be taken to equip a container for draining excess water. It is better to bury such a container in the ground so that it does not take up internal space. The drain must be tightly closed to prevent condensation and irrigation water from entering it. Practical recommendations for marking and building a foundation are in the video.

Construction stages

Several methods are used to build the basement:

• Sheets of heat-insulating material are laid on the inside, a binding wire is laid and the surface is filled with concrete;
• Cast blocks with gravel are placed on the base. This material retains heat well and has a high load-bearing capacity. But if the wall is expected to be high, it is additionally reinforced with reinforcement;
• Wooden materials impregnated under pressure with protective compounds are laid. In the future, the tree is additionally insulated.

The choice of material and method for building a basement depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on the type of soil and type of foundation. In addition, certain types of plinths require additional processing. For example, a concrete base does not need to be painted, but if it is built from concrete or sand blocks, the surface must be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint (Figure 7).

As a rule, the kit of finished products includes a frame that only needs to be mounted. But if you are building with your own hands, the frame is most often made of wood or metal.

Figure 7. Base construction technology

For this, planed lumber or metal profiles are used. When choosing materials for the frame, you should pay attention to several important details:

• Lumber intended for construction is treated with a special green compound, so the frame will have to be additionally painted. Such wood is quite expensive, but its service life is longer than regular wood. It is important that the impregnation composition is poisonous, so the roots or leaves of plants should not be allowed to come into contact with the tree.
• Pillars, ceilings and other vertical elements can be made from boards (50 x 100 or 50 x 125 mm). To install beams, timber is used, the size of which depends on the length of the building.

The construction of the frame begins with roofing felt or rubberized material being laid on the base. On lumber intended for horizontal fastening, mark and drill holes for bolts and place them around the perimeter of the plinth. After this, we outline the places for attaching the vertical beams. A detailed frame installation diagram is shown in Figure 8.

Having attached the horizontal elements to the base, check them at level, cut the vertical beams into pieces of the required size.

Note: It is not recommended to saw vertical beams in advance, since they may cause errors when installed on a plinth.

The next step is to attach the vertical posts to the top beams. Having marked the position of each board or beam, fix it with an obliquely driven nail. The optimal distance between the vertical posts is considered to be 30 or 60 cm, since in this case it is easy to glaze.

Figure 8. Frame installation diagram for gable greenhouses

At the final stage, the vertical posts are attached to the lower and upper beams with nails, and to strengthen the structure, it is recommended to tie the joints with steel staples, wire or tape with an anti-corrosion coating. After this, the cladding boards and gutters are attached. During the work, all cut points and holes for fastenings must be treated with an antiseptic. You will learn detailed recommendations for installing the frame from the video.

How to make a greenhouse from old window frames

Do-it-yourself greenhouses made from scrap materials are practically no different in functionality from expensive polycarbonate structures. Of course, they are not very suitable for winter growing crops, but they will successfully serve for several seasons under operating conditions in spring, summer and autumn.

One of the simplest structures is considered to be a greenhouse made from old window frames (Figure 9). For it, you need to make a concrete foundation, and if the building is located on clay or swampy soil, you need to additionally equip a gravel cushion.

Figure 9. Construction of a greenhouse from old window frames

But the most important step is the preparation of the raw materials themselves - old window frames. To do this, remove all handles, latches, hinges and other metal parts. The old paint is removed, the wood is treated with an antiseptic and repainted. In most cases, frames are fastened together with nails. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the glass in advance so as not to damage it during the installation process.

The frames are attached to a frame made of wooden beams. You can leave several vents for ventilation, and make the roof polycarbonate. The remaining windows that will not open during operation are carefully sealed with sealant.

How to make a foundation

The choice of material for building the foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil and the type of greenhouse itself. Let's look at the most popular options.

• Made from concrete

Suitable for homogeneous soil composition with average bearing capacity. In this case, a support is made directly at the construction site: wooden formwork is installed in a hole 30 cm deep, and the space is filled with liquid concrete. The bottom of the pit should be level and covered with a layer of crushed stone or sand. If the site has rocky soil, dig a hole down to the rock and thoroughly clean its surface (Figure 10).

The formwork must be square (side length 30 cm). The boards must be tied together so that they do not deform when pouring. Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork and concrete is poured.

• From piles

For areas with soft soil, a pile foundation is more suitable. Typically, piles are made of concrete and buried or driven into the ground. However, this method of construction is too expensive and requires the use of special equipment. Therefore, on a personal plot, you can use other methods of constructing a pile foundation:

1. Drive old rails or other metal beams into the ground;
2. Use sleepers impregnated with special compounds for longer service life.

Figure 10. Procedure for constructing a strip concrete foundation

Metal piles can be freely driven into the ground without fear of deformation. In this case, choose beams long enough so that their lower part reaches soil layers with high load-bearing capacity.

Note: Before driving piles, mark the area so that enough space is allocated for the foundation. This is necessary, since during the driving process the pile may encounter a stone or other hard rock, and its direction will have to be changed.

You need to drive piles while standing on a special stand. But even if you decide to build a small greenhouse on stilts, it is better to consult a specialist in advance.

• From concrete slabs

A foundation built from concrete slabs is quite expensive. But its cost is compensated by its high strength, reliability and load-bearing capacity even on soft soils.

It is based on a reinforced concrete slab 20 cm thick, which evenly distributes the load. However, concrete slabs cannot be laid on loose soil. If this is still necessary, the soil layer is removed and replaced with crushed stone or gravel. Styrox (10 cm thick) is laid on the crushed stone and the surface is filled with concrete. The technology for constructing a foundation from piles and concrete slabs is shown in Figure 11.

Figure 11. Construction of a foundation based on piles and concrete slabs

Selecting a foundation is especially difficult for clay areas or soil that changes its composition in depth. In this case, it is better to consult with a specialist so that the greenhouse does not deform after construction and has sufficient thermal insulation.

Construction stages

To make a greenhouse from old window frames correctly, you need to follow certain rules.

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse include the following steps:

1. Construction of the foundation: since this structure is quite heavy, it is advisable to make the corners of the foundation from stone, and between them to make a structure of concrete on a bed of gravel and sand.
2. Prepare building material: remove all metal fittings from old frames, remove old paint, treat the wood with antiseptic and repaint.
3. Make a floor: to do this, they first compact the earth, and then make a concrete screed on it, on which the beds will be located in the future
4. Construction and framing of the frame: the base to which the frames will be attached is made of beams of the same thickness as the frames. The parts are fastened together with nails, and the roof can be made of film or polycarbonate.

After the greenhouse is completely ready, beds are arranged in it or shelving is installed. It is also advisable to provide a vestibule in which inventory and necessary equipment will be stored.

How to make a greenhouse yourself from a profile pipe

Profile pipes are widely used in construction, and since this material is light and durable, it can also be used to make a greenhouse.

Since it is difficult to bend a profile pipe at a right angle without the use of special equipment, it is best to build arched models with it.

Where is the best place to place it?

A greenhouse made from a profile pipe can be placed on almost any part of the site. Since this structure is lightweight, it does not carry much load on the soil, and they can be built even in marshy and clayey areas.

Figure 12. Recommendations for building a greenhouse from a profile pipe

It is important to take into account that greenhouses made from profile pipes are subject to the same requirements as buildings made from other materials. To protect the structure from strong winds, it is advisable to build the greenhouse under the protection of other buildings or hedges. And to provide plants with optimal lighting, it is advisable to place the building from east to west.

Foundation

A profile pipe is much lighter than wood, so the foundation for a greenhouse made from it can be anything. However, if you plan to operate the building for a long time, it is better to make a permanent foundation of concrete.

If a greenhouse made from a profile pipe will be used only in the summer, you can bypass it without a foundation by installing the frame supports directly into the ground. But in this case, it is necessary to provide additional protection to the plants by installing wooden formwork around the perimeter.

Construction stages

The construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe begins with site preparation (Figure 12). It is advisable to choose a flat area with sandy soil. If there is no such place, the soil is leveled manually, and drainage is installed on swampy soils.

Next, they begin to manufacture and install the frame. If you want to build a rectangular greenhouse, you will have to buy special equipment with which the pipe can be bent at the desired angle. To avoid additional costs, it is better to build arched structures. In this case, the pipe can simply be bent into an arc and dug into the ground on both sides.

At the final stage of construction, the frame is sheathed with film, glass or polycarbonate, the floor and beds are made, or shelving is installed.

Make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands (drawings)

The most modern and functional option is the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse (Figure 13). This is a lightweight, durable and wear-resistant material that will last for many years. Its only drawback is the high price, so it is worth building such greenhouses only if it will be used for a long time.

You can make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands according to the drawings, but many people prefer to buy ready-made structures and install them on site. We will tell you how to save money and build a protected ground structure with your own hands.

What is needed for this

First of all, you need to buy polycarbonate for construction. Another advantage is that the sheets have a standard length and width (12 and 2.10 meters, respectively). This allows you to build a greenhouse 3.5 meters wide and cover the roof with one whole sheet.

In addition to the polycarbonate itself, for construction you will need materials for the foundation, fittings for fastening sheets and a plastic U-shaped profile, which covers the edges of the polycarbonate to protect its honeycombs from dust.

Peculiarities

Apart from the high cost of polycarbonate, the material has no other significant disadvantages. Of course, its honeycombs can become clogged with dust, and the coating will lose transparency, but this problem can be easily solved with the help of a plastic profile that is attached to the edges of the sheet.

Figure 13. Procedure for constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse

Like other types of structures, polycarbonate greenhouses require a foundation, but its purpose is not to strengthen the building, but to protect the plants from the external environment.

Where is the best place to place it?

In addition, it is advisable to install the greenhouse so that the plants receive the maximum amount of sunlight. To do this, you need to position the structure from east to west.

Foundation

To build a foundation that will exactly fit the size of the greenhouse, you need to place the site by installing pegs and stringing rope between them. After this, you can begin installing the foundation.

Note: Since polycarbonate is a lightweight material, the foundation can be built either strip (from concrete) or wooden - from beams and supports.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as supports, which are installed in the corners of the greenhouse. The soil around them is compacted, and the foundation is made of wooden beams. It is better to treat the wood with an antiseptic and paint it so that the structure does not rot.

Construction stages

The steps for constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse are the same as for other materials. First, the site is marked out and the foundation is built. After this, the installation of the frame begins. It can be made of wood, profile pipes or aluminum. The latter option is considered preferable, since aluminum is quite light, but at the same time durable.

At the final stages, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, equipment for watering, heating and ventilation is installed inside the structure, and the beds are arranged.

How to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands

The design of a heated greenhouse is practically no different from conventional structures. But you need to take into account several important nuances. First, you need to carefully seal all the cracks so that heat does not escape from the greenhouse.

Secondly, you need to install heating equipment. You can make warm beds by arranging them according to the principle of a warm floor and laying pipes under the ground. But a more popular option is to install heating: a gas, electric or stove boiler.

All summer residents are familiar with this picture: May, it’s warm, the sun is shining brightly, there are the first shoots of early planting, the next morning you look out the window, and snow has fallen. Of course, this is not a completely favorable phenomenon, which will negatively affect yields, especially on crops that are sensitive to sudden temperature changes. If you are waiting for an early harvest to sell, then losses cannot be avoided. But it is quite possible to get out of this situation. It will not be possible to stop the snow, but everyone can protect the seedlings from it. This is precisely why a greenhouse is being built.

You can find many original ideas on how and what to build it from. We suggest you figure out how to build a greenhouse using polycarbonate. The article will present options for its arrangement, tell you what kind of foundation can be built, what to make the frame from and how to mount polycarbonate. We are sure that after reading the material you will be convinced that it is possible to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself.

Varieties of types and forms of greenhouses

Today you can find different forms of greenhouses. Most Popular:

• arched;
• tent

They differ from each other in the shape of the roof. There are also other differences, they are listed in the table:

Comparison of greenhouses
The name of this greenhouse speaks for itself. The shape of the roof is semicircular. It's a kind of tunnel with walls. For this shape, the ideal covering option is polycarbonate. It bends easily, forming a smooth arc.	Its production is carried out from separate blocks. On average, the height of the building reaches 2500 mm, sometimes higher. Length and width are determined individually. The roof shape is predominantly gable.

Some greenhouses are not built for growing certain crops directly in the ground. In this case, the construction of special racks and shelves will be required.

There are options for greenhouses with removable insulation panels. For example, they can be removed during the warm season. When it gets cold, removable shields are put in place, and they protect the plants from cold and precipitation.

In any case, regardless of the chosen form of construction, the following must be taken into account:

• The greenhouse must be durable and functional.
• All plants must be freely accessible.

Polygonal dome-shaped greenhouses attract with their originality and shape. The process of making them is labor-intensive. Moreover, it is extremely difficult to cover them with polycarbonate.

Important nuances of choosing an installation location

There are several important nuances that should be taken into account when choosing a location for installation:

• soil composition;
• landscape drawing;
• side of the world.

As for landscape design, it is important to take into account the nature of the terrain or the dynamics of soil conditions. For example, if the greenhouse is installed on a slope, will it be flooded when snow or rain melts? Also pay attention to the level of soil freezing and groundwater levels. The values ​​should be no higher than 1.2 m, otherwise the rising water will wet the roots, which will eventually rot.

Note! If the groundwater in your area is higher than 1.2 meters, then it is necessary to construct a drainage system to remove moisture.

As for the choice of cardinal directions and suitable soil, it is worth talking about this in more detail. If you do not pay enough attention to this issue, the yield in the greenhouse may be poor. This will be discussed further.

Determining soil for growing greenhouse plants

The soil should be relatively dry and level. If you dig a shallow hole where you plan to put a greenhouse and find clay in it, then this place is not suitable for a greenhouse. Clay retains moisture, so after each watering the water will remain on the surface for a long time.

Sandy soil is considered the ideal soil. If you don’t have sand on your site, then it is important to perform a number of additional works: dig a pit, pour sand gravel and fill in a sand cushion. A layer of fertile soil should be poured on top.

Selecting cardinal directions

To begin with, it is worth noting that the correct location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions contributes to serious savings on your money. If the greenhouse receives enough sunlight, there will be no need for lighting. In addition, sunlight will provide the plants with the necessary warmth. Agree that organizing the heating and lighting of a greenhouse will require a lot of money, but finance is still needed to maintain the systems and keep them in working order.

So, there are 2 good ways to install a greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions:

• from east to west;
• from North to South.

The first option is the most effective. Thanks to this arrangement, the plants will receive sunlight throughout the day.

Note! If your greenhouse is square, then these requirements do not apply to it. Determining the cardinal directions is necessary for greenhouses with dimensions of 3×6, 3×8 m or more. You can install a square greenhouse in a way that is more convenient for you.

Determining the location relative to buildings and trees

The location of the greenhouse in relation to existing outbuildings and trees also plays an important role. So, no shadow from the house or trees should fall on the greenhouse. If you place the greenhouse close to a tree, then foliage will accumulate on the roof of the greenhouse, preventing the penetration of sunlight into the greenhouse. You will have to constantly ensure that the roof is clean.

Having examined the main nuances of the location of the greenhouse, we suggest returning to our main topic. Let's talk about the advantages of using polycarbonate, as well as the features of its choice.

Features of polycarbonate greenhouses

Traditionally, the greenhouse is covered with glass or polyethylene. These materials are affordable. However, if we compare them with polycarbonate construction, the latter has a clear advantage in durability. There is a very high risk that the polyethylene will break. Moreover, you don’t need to make any special efforts for this. Glass is fragile and may break. Of course, polycarbonate can be broken, it just has more advantages in terms of strength and practicality. If glass breaks, shards can get into your eyes and exposed skin. Moreover, fragments that fall into the ground are very dangerous, because a large amount of work in the ground is done manually.

The advantage of such a greenhouse is that you can make it yourself. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of polycarbonate greenhouses:

Advantages	Flaws
High transmittance of sunlight.	The material is flammable, which is a danger in case of fire.
The polycarbonate fixed to the greenhouse frame is resistant to mechanical stress.	Compared to other materials, the final cost may be higher.
The plasticity of the material allows you to give the greenhouse an arched shape.
The service life is about 20 years.
Polycarbonate is resistant to the negative effects of precipitation.
Attractive appearance.
The light weight of the material does not require the manufacture of a powerful foundation.
Possibility to choose any color palette.

Which polycarbonate to choose for a greenhouse

The market offers polycarbonate in different designs. Our goal is to select the most suitable material for the greenhouse. This is an important stage, because polycarbonate plays an important role in obtaining a good harvest. So, when starting to make a choice, it is worth remembering the following:

• It is not uncommon to find low-quality polycarbonate. The worst thing is that it is sold under the guise of branded materials.
• There is lightweight polycarbonate on sale - it has thin walls. Its use is cost-effective in warm climates. With sudden changes in temperature, such polycarbonate will become brittle. Moreover, it will not provide sufficient strength to the greenhouse.
• Often the parameters indicated on the packaging do not correspond to reality. For example, if the sheet thickness is stated to be 4 mm, it may turn out to be only 3.5 mm. But it is not recommended to buy such polycarbonate.
• If you want to purchase wear-resistant polycarbonate, then weight plays an important role in its choice. A normal and high-quality sheet of standard sizes will weigh about 10 kg. Lightweight version - 8.5 kg, or even less. The latter are not highly durable - they are fragile.
• High-quality polycarbonate always has a mark on the method and method of its installation. The presence of a special protective film against ultraviolet rays also indicates quality.
• High-quality polycarbonate is elastic and easy to work with. It shouldn't be too fragile.

If you are planning a large purchase of material, you can ask for documentation and a quality certificate. Usually the weight, size, manufacturer and other necessary data are indicated there.

New polycarbonate must be packaged in polyethylene. There must be appropriate markings on the side that is protected from ultraviolet rays and on the edge of the elements. If you don't have it, it's better not to buy plastic.

Cellular polycarbonate is most often used to construct a greenhouse. And this is logical, because it is relatively transparent, transmits up to 88% of light, and these indicators do not decrease during operation. If we talk about impact strength, it is 100 or more times greater than that of glass. Let us also highlight other features of this type of polycarbonate:

1. The thermal conductivity of a material with a thickness of 4 mm is 2 times greater than that of glass. Which saves energy up to 30%. High thermal insulation is achieved due to the presence of an air gap.
2. The material is self-extinguishing, so it is considered fireproof.
3. Easy to install. The greenhouse can be given any shape.
4. The material is resistant to various atmospheric conditions. Recommended for use at temperatures ranging from –40°C to +120°C. During operation, it does not lose its qualities.

Now let's pay attention to the appropriate thickness of the material for the greenhouse. The optimal thickness is 8 mm. The thicker the polycarbonate, the larger the pitch allowed in the sheathing. Thin material has a lower price, but the lathing must be done in small increments, plus its impact resistance is lower.

So, when choosing polycarbonate, consider the following recommendations:

• for greenhouses – up to 4 mm;
• for a small greenhouse - 6 mm;
• for the average greenhouse area - 8 mm;
• if the greenhouse has a large vertical part, then the recommended thickness is 10 mm;
• in case of large spans, a material with a thickness of 16 mm is recommended.

An important factor is the choice of material density. For a greenhouse it should be 800 g/m2. You can even determine the density visually. If, in a lying position, the sheets do not look skewed, do not have bends or other deformations, then the polycarbonate is of sufficient density. But it is best to ask for documentation with technical specifications.

Which is better – ready-made or homemade?

If you don’t like to do things yourself or don’t have time at all, then the ideal option would be to buy a ready-made greenhouse. You will purchase a complete kit, which includes a frame, fasteners, cover, etc. However, such greenhouses have a number of disadvantages that cannot be ignored. Factory-produced greenhouses often do not comply with stated GOST standards. As a rule, such frames are less stable. Therefore, before installing them, you should make a good foundation and further strengthen the structure.

The metal frame often corrodes, and very quickly the need for repairs arises. It's a completely different matter when everything is made independently. By doing everything from scratch, you will never skimp on consumables.

Below we suggest watching a video where a version of a ready-made greenhouse is provided.

Video: the process of assembling a finished greenhouse from a metal profile

Options for polycarbonate greenhouse frames

The frame can be made from different building materials. Each of them differs in quality, which affects the duration of operation. For example, a greenhouse can be made based on:

• profile pipe;
• wood;
• galvanized profile;
• polypropylene pipe, etc.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is the best, because each has undeniable advantages:

Polycarbonate greenhouse frame options
	The material is durable. Does not corrode when exposed to moisture. The advantages include ease of installation. The structures are lightweight, so there is no need to make a heavy foundation. However, there are also disadvantages. If there is a lot of snow in your area, the galvanized profile may bend and cannot withstand the load.
	This material is budget-friendly, unlike its analogues. This frame will last for many years. Polypropylene does not corrode. However, due to the light weight of the structure, the frame must be attached to the ground. And very reliable. Otherwise, the greenhouse may overturn under the influence of wind.
	Also quite accessible material. Using this material, you can completely independently make a frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse. But there are some disadvantages here. Wood itself absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is susceptible to corrosion and rots. Accordingly, a reliable foundation, high-quality antiseptic treatment of the frame and high-quality wood are required.
	This material is light in weight. However, in terms of price it is the most expensive. Considering that a thick aluminum profile is required for the frame of the greenhouse, in the end everything will be very expensive. Although the quality of such a frame will fully justify itself.
	This material is undeniably the best in its strength. However, to assemble such a greenhouse you will need a welding machine. A bolted connection is not the best option, although it is possible. To prevent the formation of corrosion, it is necessary to treat the profile pipe with a special compound. The installation process is quite labor-intensive and requires a lot of labor.

What you should pay attention to when determining the frame design:

• Plan the correct location of the windows. For normal ventilation, 2 small windows are enough.
• If the greenhouse is large, then ventilation vents should be located every 2 meters.
• It is often necessary to think about organizing lighting, especially if you are growing vegetables for seedlings.
• Correctly calculate the number of sections and arcs in the future frame. Remember, the strength of the frame depends on the profile section. The step between each section should not exceed 700 mm. Although today you can find ready-made greenhouses with a pitch between arcs of up to 2000 mm. This is not the most durable option.
• Select the correct thickness of polycarbonate. We discussed the subtleties of this process above.

So, these are the main nuances that should be taken into account when forming the frame design.

Foundation manufacturing options

Like any other structure, the greenhouse must also be located on a foundation. It just may differ in the material used. It is worth noting that the base for the greenhouse must perform several important functions, including:

• providing a reliable basis for the frame;
• preventing direct contact of the frame wall with the ground, which provokes heat loss of up to 10%;
• preventing moisture from penetrating into the greenhouse;
• preventing moles, shrews and other “uninvited guests” from entering the greenhouse.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with several types of foundations that are successfully used when constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse:

• tape;
• wood;
• columnar.

We offer step-by-step construction instructions for each type of foundation. Of course, you may know other methods, but we will describe the most accessible and common ones.

Tape

This type of base has a high degree of strength. You can mount a frame for a greenhouse on it from any building material. In addition, it provides excellent protection against the penetration of cold and excess moisture. The production of such a foundation is carried out in several successive stages, which are reflected in the table:

Stages of work	Instructions
Stage No. 1	First, the strip foundation is marked. To do this, pegs are installed around the perimeter. To obtain the correct size, you should measure the diagonals and the angles themselves. The diagram shows how to perform these processes: For a polycarbonate greenhouse, a foundation with a width of 250 mm to 400 mm will be sufficient.
Stage No. 2	Now after marking it is necessary to carry out excavation work. A trench along the entire perimeter of the foundation is dug to a depth of 600 mm.
Stage No. 3	The bottom of the trench is leveled, and a sand cushion with a thickness of about 100–150 mm is filled in. The layer of sand and crushed stone must be compacted. This layer is necessary in order to create a good base for the concrete and prevent it from mixing with the soil.
Stage No. 4	Now you need to set up the formwork. In the photo you can see a small section of the formwork, namely the method of its installation: The formwork must be securely fastened. Supports in the form of stakes or struts must be installed outside. It is necessary to tighten the formwork together with a tie made of wooden beams. The strip foundation should rise 300 mm above the ground level.
Stage No. 5	Reinforcement in the form of a wire-bound frame must be laid at the bottom of the trench. This will give strength to the base.
Stage No. 6	Now mix the concrete solution. It is best to pour the foundation at one time. Having laid a layer of liquid concrete, be sure to compact it and vibrate it. This will prevent the formation of voids in the concrete body.

That's all, the strip foundation is ready. Depending on the type of frame, you can immediately insert metal embedded rods into the concrete, which will stick up. But this depends on the type of frame chosen. After pouring the concrete, it is recommended to cover it with polyethylene. This is especially necessary if the weather is sunny and hot outside. The concrete will gradually dry out.

Wood

If we talk about the simplest and most inexpensive foundation, then it is wood. Such a foundation will allow you to move the greenhouse to another location if necessary. However, remember the important disadvantage of such a base - the wood is subject to corrosion. The wooden foundation is based on timber. Manufacturing work consists of the following:

Technology for manufacturing a wooden foundation for a greenhouse
	First of all, it is necessary to make markings. This stage of work is performed regardless of the type of base. In this case, wooden beams 100×100 mm are used. Depending on the weight of the frame, the thickness of the timber may be greater or less.
	The bars are measured strictly according to the specified size. Using a marker, they are marked and prepared for cutting.
	It is convenient to use a chainsaw to cut timber. It is important to maintain a 90˚ angle.
	When you lay the beams, use a level. Thanks to this, the frame for the greenhouse will be level.
	There is a method of connecting beams groove to groove. In this case, a metal corner will be used. The edges of the beam are placed on supports. First, a base of bricks, blocks, or concrete is laid in the ground.
	Again, pre-measure everything by level. At this stage, the supports under the beam have already been laid and clearly installed.
	At the next stage, the diagonals are measured.
	Their sizes must match. If this condition is not met, problems may arise.
	If the dimensions all match, then soil is poured under the beam. It is also worth making control measurements using a level.
	At the last stage, the metal corner is fixed using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
	At the same time, control the diagonals so that your previous measurements are not violated.
	The end result is this kind of foundation for a future greenhouse.

It is important to highlight some nuances here. In the method of laying a wooden foundation described above, the timber has direct contact with the ground. For this reason, the timber must be treated with a special anti-corrosion mastic. But this is short-lived, so after some time the base will have to be repaired. To eliminate this problem, some build a wooden base on a metal column foundation. How to do this, see the prepared video materials.

Video: marking and preparing the base for a wooden foundation

Video: what will happen if you don’t measure the diagonal when marking the foundation

Video: instructions for making a wooden foundation

Columnar

This type of greenhouse base is combined with a strip base. We will give instructions for making a columnar foundation on metal pipes. Wooden beams will be laid on top. All instructions are presented in the table:

Sequence of work	The process of making a strip base
	After the marking is completed, we determine the places for laying the support pillars. The support pillars must be located at the corners of the greenhouse. On the long side, the step between the pillars can be up to 3 m. Everything will depend on the weight of the future greenhouse structure. Wells Ø300 mm are manufactured.
	Roofing material is placed in the finished well, which will protect the concrete from direct contact with the ground. The roofing material should precisely form the required hole diameter of 300 mm. A pipe is inserted in the middle of the well, the walls of which must be at least 3 mm thick. As for the diameter of the pipe, it can be different: 50, 75, 100 mm, etc. The pipe is installed strictly vertically.
	Concrete work is now being carried out. The inside of the roofing felt is completely filled with concrete. To prevent the concrete mixture from pushing through the roofing material, it is necessary to simultaneously add and compact the soil. The level of poured concrete should be level with the soil or slightly protruding.
	According to this scheme, each support is installed under the foundation of the greenhouse.
	When the concrete has completely hardened, it is necessary to make preparations so that the columnar supports are cut to the same level. For this purpose, such a device in the form of a clamp is useful. Once you have marked the cut level, you can use the template to make an even cut.
	The next step will require a laser level. At one point you need to install it and “shoot” a laser beam at it at all installed pipes. Cutting marks are placed on the pipes.
	After this, using a special clamp, a cut is made along the marks using a grinder and a metal circle. Thanks to this technology, you can ensure a flat surface on the top of the columnar support.
	At the next stage, the concrete mixture is prepared. A kind of watering can is made that will direct the entire concrete mixture into the middle of the pipe. The entire inside of the pipe must be filled with concrete. As you know, when concrete comes into contact with metal, the latter does not rust. As the pipe fills, take a piece of metal reinforcement or other rod and pierce the concrete to completely eliminate any air from inside the concrete.
	When the concrete has gained 50–60% strength, you can proceed to the next stage. A sheet of metal 8 mm thick is taken. For the corner pillars of the support, these corner plates are cut. Holes are made in them through which wooden beams will be attached.
	The intermediate beams will have metal plates like this, which will allow you to either connect two beams together or fasten the beam along its entire length.
	As waterproofing for each columnar support, these “beddings” are cut out of roofing felt. Already on top you can lay the beams and fasten them for the subsequent formation of the greenhouse frame.

Today, there are other technologies for making a polycarbonate foundation for a greenhouse. You should choose the most suitable option. At the same time, always take into account the fact that polycarbonate itself does not have much weight. Therefore, the strength of the foundation is determined based on the weight of the frame. It is clear that if it is a metal frame, then a stronger foundation is needed. Next, we suggest looking at several options for making a frame for a greenhouse.

Greenhouse frame

As for the frame of the greenhouse, it can be made of several materials. For example, the simplest one is a wooden beam. More expensive technologies are also used, including aluminum profiles, metal pipes and metal profiles. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making frames using different building materials.

First of all, it is worth considering the features of this material. Is it so good for making a greenhouse? A metal profile pipe is a pipe with a rectangular cross-section. This material is widely used due to the following technical characteristics:

• the load is distributed evenly along the edges, this ensures greater strength of the frame;
• a linear meter has a very affordable cost;
• the presence of smooth sides simplifies the installation of polycarbonate;
• The greenhouse made from the profile ends up being quite strong and durable.

Most often, a profile pipe with a cross section of 40×20 or 20×20 mm is used.

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe. What is important to consider

When making a drawing of a frame from a profile pipe, it is important to take into account that the length of rolled profile pipe is limited: 3, 6, 4, 12 m, etc. Knowing the parameters of the future greenhouse, as well as the length of the profile, you can save a lot. How? For example, you can design a drawing to minimize waste. Moreover, the dimensions of the greenhouse can be adjusted to the existing dimensions of the profile pipe.

Note! If you are buying a profile for racks, then it is better to give preference to pipes with a cross-section of 20×40 mm; if we are talking about cross-sections, then pipes of 20×20 mm would be a suitable option.

When making a drawing, be sure to prepare the following elements:

• roof;
• upper/lower trim;
• vertical racks;
• openings for windows and doors;
• additional elements.

The installation step of each rack can reach 1 m.

As for the manufacture of the roof, it is necessary to prepare unique trusses. They can have two slopes or be in the shape of an arch. It all depends on your preferences. But not only that. To create an arched roof, you need to bend the profile pipe using a special pipe bender. As for the gable roof, only welding is necessary.

Note! Among other things, be sure to consider the dimensions of the polycarbonate. For example, find out the width of the sheet and determine exactly where the joint will be.

If you have an arched roof, then take into account the fact that to build a greenhouse about 2 m high, you will need a 12 m profile. You can use this option: buy two 6 m profiles and connect them together.

To form the roof of a greenhouse, a simple option is used. This will also require minimal welding work. So, you need to make cuts with a grinder in suitable places on the pipe and simply bend it. This is the form that appears:

It is extremely important to take accurate measurements and cuts to avoid mistakes. Each segment must be welded together:

A calculation is also made regarding the location of the ventilation window and the door at the end of the frame. Look at the diagram:

There is also a diagram for assembling a greenhouse from a profile pipe, on which all connections are indicated:

Instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame with a gable roof

Now we offer small instructions for making a frame for a greenhouse from a metal profile in the table:

Sequence of work	Processes
Foundation preparation	To construct a frame made of a metal profile, a strong foundation is required; it is advisable to fill it with a strip foundation. You can also install embedded elements in the form of anchors into the foundation, through which the future frame will be secured by welding or bolting.
Profile preparation	Now you need to cut the purchased profile into the appropriate sizes. First of all, the frame racks are formed.
Installation of support pillars	After this, support pillars along the perimeter are welded to the mortgages in the foundation. Be sure to do it in the corners, as well as in increments of around 1 meter. It is important to use a level to install the racks strictly vertically.
Installation of the top trim	At this stage, it is necessary to weld the trim around the perimeter of the upper part of the pipe. Thus, all installed racks will be connected into one structure.
Spacers between posts	To make the greenhouse structure stable, cross members and spacers are welded. They can go perpendicular or oblique. Their main task is to impart the greatest rigidity.
Roofing production	To make a gable roof, two sections of profile pipe are measured. Afterwards the ridge is formed and the pipes are welded at the top point. You can use the method described above by making cuts with a grinder. By bending the pipe, you immediately get 2 slopes, which remain to be welded to the frame structure.
Door installation	Doors must be installed on one end side. Loops are used for this. The door frame is also made of pipe, after which it is sheathed with polycarbonate.

There is a technology by which all the main elements are assembled on a flat horizontal surface. After which the assembled trusses are connected to each other and attached to the foundation.

If you want to give the roof an arc shape, then cut off part of the pipe and, using a pipe bender, bend it to the desired radius. Of course, work needs to be done here. If there is no pipe bender, some home craftsmen make cuts on the pipe and bend it along them. But this method is ineffective; it is better to use a pipe bending device.

We offer several videos on making a greenhouse from a metal profile. At the same time, consider options with a gable roof and in the shape of an arch.

Video: making an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe

Video: making a gable roof from a profile pipe

Wooden frame for a greenhouse: gable and arched

A wooden greenhouse frame has its own characteristics and advantages. Among the positive aspects are the following:

Advantages of a wooden greenhouse
Low cost	Unlike metal, the raw material for a wooden greenhouse is much cheaper.
Easy to use	There is no need to use welding units during construction. For work you need a screwdriver/screwdriver, a hacksaw and a hammer. These are basic carpentry tools.
Maintainability	If one of the structural elements breaks, it is very easy to replace.
Easy to mount polycarbonate	It is easiest to attach polycarbonate to wooden blocks. There is no need to drill holes.
Environmental friendliness	The material is absolutely environmentally friendly and does not pose any threat to the environment.
Light weight	The overall structure of a greenhouse frame made of wooden beams will have much less weight, in contrast to a metal profile pipe.
Easy to care for	There is no need for special care during operation.

Indeed, wooden greenhouses are an excellent solution. They will fit perfectly into the landscape of your suburban area. Now we propose to consider 2 instructions for making an arched greenhouse and a gable one.

Arched greenhouse made of wooden blocks

The main problem with an arched greenhouse is making the arch out of wood. The manufactured arcs must have high strength. But anyone can make such a greenhouse. You will see this for yourself now.

To begin, prepare the following building material:

• boards 50 mm thick;
• timber 50×50 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal furniture corners.

As for the tools, this is a standard carpentry set, including a hacksaw, hammer, screwdriver, drill, level, tape measure, etc.

We offer you to follow step by step how to make such a greenhouse. It is immediately worth noting that this type of greenhouse is ideally combined with a wooden foundation:

Below are some dimensions. Based on your circumstances, you can replace them with your own, increasing or decreasing the greenhouse design. So, first of all, the most key element is made - the arch or arc. It will consist of many similar elements:

For ease of work, it is first recommended to make a pattern; thick cardboard is suitable for this. After this, take a board 50 mm thick and place your pattern on top of it. Use a marker to transfer its outline onto the board. To reduce waste, place the pattern on the board in the most efficient way.

Having cut the required number of similar elements, you can begin assembling the first layer of the arc. In the provided diagram, 17 such elements were used. In your case there may be more/less.

The elements to form an arc are laid out on a flat surface as shown in the diagram:

Each element must be laid next to each other as tightly as possible and without gaps. The result will be an arc like this:

The second layer of the arc should act as a fastener. Fastening is carried out according to this principle:

Both ends of the board should be in the center of the already fixed element, that is, with a slight offset. All elements are connected to each other with self-tapping screws. To prevent the elements from splitting, it is recommended to drill holes for the screws. But the diameter of the hole must be smaller than the diameter of the mounting screw. This way you will assemble a whole arc. The number of such farms will depend on the footage of the entire greenhouse. The step between them should be no more than one meter.

Note! Once you have made all the finished elements of the greenhouse, you need to treat them with a special antiseptic against rotting. This will prevent them from being destroyed by moisture.

At the next stage, it is necessary to attach the arcs to the foundation. This is done according to this scheme:

Fastening can be done using furniture metal corners. Step by step you will get this frame:

Afterwards, the stiffening ribs must be fixed. For this, a beam with a cross section of 50×50 mm is used. The length of the beam depends on the length of the greenhouse. In the end you should get something like this:

Every summer resident can make a similar frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse on his own. You will end up with a design like this:

Video: an original idea for making an arched greenhouse

Manufacturing technology of a gable wooden greenhouse

Making a greenhouse with a gable roof is much easier. Detailed drawings and diagrams will help here. Thanks to them, it will be easier to collect the necessary building material. The frame design can be based on 50×50 mm bars as supports for a 100×100 mm frame.

It is worth noting that the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse is similar to the sequence of manufacturing a greenhouse from a profile pipe. Only in this case everything is much simpler. Support columns are installed along the perimeter: in the corners of the greenhouse and in increments of up to 1000 mm. For greater strength, a lower frame and an upper one are made; timber is used for this purpose. To ensure the rigidity of the walls of the structure, cross members must be fixed.

The formation of two roof slopes is performed on a flat horizontal surface. Using prepared drawings and diagrams, you can cope with this work quite easily and quickly.

To connect the bars, self-tapping screws, metal corners, and in some cases, nails are used. Below we suggest looking at the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse.

Video: how to make a wooden frame with a gable roof

Greenhouse made of galvanized profile

This material is also used to make a greenhouse. It has many positive aspects, among which the following stand out:

• simple installation;
• a small set of tools for installation;
• galvanization does not corrode;
• the frame does not need to be painted or coated with protective compounds;
• the total weight of the greenhouse will be small, which allows you to save money and build a small foundation;
• unlike a profile pipe, a galvanized profile is cheaper;
• speed of assembly.

The manufacturing process is relatively simple, the description is presented in the table:

Stages of work	Process description
Stage 1	To make a frame, a flat horizontal surface is required. Otherwise, there is a risk that the frame will have unevenness, which will negatively affect the installation of polycarbonate. So, first of all, the frame of the rear and front walls is made. Lay out a rectangular shape or square on the ground (depending on the chosen shape of your greenhouse). Its upper and lower parts are the width of the greenhouse, and the two side ones (left and right) are the support posts.
Stage 2	Measure the diagonals of the structure. They must match. The difference is allowed up to 5 mm. That is, you should get an even figure, but in no case a rhombus.
Stage 3	After inserting the profile into each other, fasten it with metal screws. The galvanized profile is relatively soft, so there is no need to drill holes. For each fastening unit, 2 self-tapping screws must be screwed. This will give the frame structure greater rigidity.
Stage 4	Afterwards, find the middle of the upper part of the assembled square/rectangle and draw a perpendicular line from it upward to form the roof ridge.
Stage 5	From the marked point, use a tape measure to measure the distance to the edge of the upper corner of the greenhouse. As a result, you should have 2 skates of the same size. Then a profile of the appropriate size is taken and cut in half. At the cut, the profile is bent, and this is how a gable roof is formed.
Stage 6	The roofing element is attached to the frame. The finished structure is also additionally secured with stiffeners. The cross members can be located diagonally or crosswise. There is no strict rule here. The main goal is to create the necessary rigidity. According to this scheme, the second part of the end side of the greenhouse is assembled.
Stage 7	An opening for the door must be formed in the end part.
Stage 8	Taking into account the size of the polycarbonate sheets, it is calculated how many additional trusses need to be installed and in what places. Standard polycarbonate has a width of 210 cm, so the normal span will reach 105 cm.
Stage 9	When all the frame elements are prepared, all that remains is to install the greenhouse. Be sure to attach spacers, ties and cross members for greater stability of the greenhouse.

To eliminate the unpleasant phenomenon of a broken greenhouse, additionally install a profile diagonally between each rack. Even a strong wind load in this case will not damage the integrity of the greenhouse frame made of galvanized profile.

Note! To make such a frame, a plasterboard profile is often used. Therefore, you can calculate which will cost less.

Video: making a greenhouse from a galvanized profile

Homemade frame made of polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene pipes are successfully used not only for laying water supply systems. They can be used to make homemade greenhouses covered with polycarbonate. This material for this purpose has the following advantages:

• the pipes and components themselves are inexpensive;
• it is possible to move the greenhouse to another place due to the low weight of the structure;
• simple installation, and for work you need a special welding soldering iron and scissors;
• polypropylene does not corrode, the greenhouse will last 20 years or more.

As for the disadvantages, it is light weight. Such a greenhouse will have a strong windage. For this reason, it will be necessary to provide correct and reinforced fastening to the foundation or ground.

So, making such a greenhouse will not take much effort. All work consists of several successive stages:

1. First, let's do the markings.
2. At the corners of the future greenhouse, reinforcement is driven into the ground, and it should protrude from the ground level to a height of up to 500 mm.
3. Afterwards, a pipe is taken and one end is inserted into the fittings sticking out of the ground. It is carefully bent, and the other end is inserted into the opposite section of the reinforcement.

The entire frame of the greenhouse is assembled using this principle. When all the trusses are installed, the cross members must be fixed. This will require special fittings: tees and crosses.

To attach the crossbars, perform the following steps:

1. A pipe is cut at the top of the arch; later a cross or tee will be soldered at the cut site.
2. A plastic cross should be welded onto the cut parts of the pipe (for this work you will need help: one holds the pipe, bending it, and the second solders).
3. It will be necessary to solder crossbars into those with 2 exits from the cross, thus the entire structure will be connected to each other.
4. The end parts of the greenhouse are also cut, and the tees are soldered.

Doors and windows can also be formed from polypropylene pipe. Watch interesting videos. One shows how to assemble such a greenhouse using self-tapping screws, and in the second everything is done using soldering. The polycarbonate is attached to such a greenhouse with self-tapping screws, which is very convenient and quick.

Video: features of making a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes

Fastening polycarbonate to a greenhouse - technology

So, the features of manufacturing the foundation and frame of the greenhouse were considered. As you can see, there are many technologies that differ in complexity of execution, cost of raw materials and more. Now we have come to the next stage of greenhouse manufacturing - installation/fastening of polycarbonate. First, let's discuss the options for fastening materials.

Ordinary screws will not work here. There are special thermal washers on sale that do not damage polycarbonate, but on the contrary, securely hold the material. Special sealing thermal washers are used. They have the following positive aspects:

• The ability to easily attach polycarbonate to any type of sheathing.
• Moisture and cold air will not penetrate inside through the bolts, since their design involves the use of a special rubber gasket.
• The thermal washer allows the polycarbonate to expand in extreme heat without destroying it.

Neoprene material is used as a seal. It's quite soft. If the temperature regime changes, then the maximum that happens to neoprene is compression, but it does not lose its tightness. That is, the polycarbonate sheet will move, but in no case warp. As for the self-tapping screw, it is a type of “beetle”, that is, the tip of the self-tapping screw resembles a drill. After tightening the screw, the cap is closed with a plastic plug, which gives an aesthetic appearance. Plus, the self-tapping screw will be protected from direct moisture, which eliminates its corrosion.

There are also special profiles for attaching polycarbonate on sale. They can be of different types, for example, H-shaped, ridge - RP, one-piece connecting - HP and detachable - NSR, end - UP, detachable connecting - SP, wall - FP.

An aluminum fastening system is also known. Of course, this technology is supported by the high strength and durability of the entire greenhouse structure. The fastening aluminum profile is available in lengths of 6 m and thicknesses from 6 to 25 mm.

Video: types of fasteners for polycarbonate

Features of polycarbonate installation

In fact, it does not matter at all what position the polycarbonate sheet will be placed in: vertically, at an angle, horizontally, etc. Special attention should be paid to sealing the joints. If an aluminum profile is used for fastening, it has a special rubber seal. Polycarbonate sheets are joined together to form a hermetically sealed joint.

When screwing a self-tapping screw through polycarbonate, do not overtighten it. The sealing rubber should lightly press the sheet to the frame. Special attention should be paid to the edges and ends of the polycarbonate. They should be framed with a special protective plastic profile.

If, after cutting the sheet, you find burrs, uneven and very rough edges, then all this must be removed. Otherwise, it will not be possible to ensure sufficient sealing. Additionally, we suggest watching videos that clearly show the process of attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Video: technology for attaching polycarbonate to a greenhouse

Communications in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Building a greenhouse is one thing, providing it with the necessary communications is quite another. Among the main ones are the following:

1. Lighting.
2. Ventilation.
3. Heating.
4. Watering.

This is especially important if you plan to grow vegetables year-round. If your work involves this, then you should think about automating most of the processes. This will significantly save your time, although you will first have to raise a lot of money. We recommend that you watch the videos in these subsections. We are confident that this information will help you make the right decision.

Artificial lighting as a complement to natural

We already said at the beginning of this article that the correct location of the greenhouse will save you money. If the chosen place is well lit by sunlight, then this is a huge plus. However, some crops are sensitive to even a slight lack of light, and this can cause negative consequences affecting their development.

To organize lighting, lamps are used:

• conventional incandescent;
• high pressure mercury;
• high pressure sodium;
• luminescent;
• halogen;
• LED.

Let's consider the features of these types of lamps in terms of their use for lighting in a polycarbonate greenhouse:

Types of lamps	Specifications
Incandescent lamps	This type of lighting produces an excess of rays. This has a bad effect on the development of plants, so their installation will not achieve the original goal.
Mercury	In addition to illumination, this type of lamp also provides heat. However, their main disadvantage is ultraviolet radiation. Their use is allowed in combination with other types of lighting.
Sodium	High level of light output. The light emanating from them has a yellow-orange hue. This is excellent for the development and fruiting of all plants in the greenhouse.
Luminescent	This type of lamp is considered the most efficient. The light they emit has a beneficial effect on the development of plants. The low temperature that they emit allows them to be placed in close proximity to plants. Additionally, you can use ultraviolet lamps, which will prevent the development of bacteria and other harmful microorganisms.
Halogen	High cost and short service life are a serious disadvantage. However, the light emitted most closely matches the spectrum of sunlight.
LEDs	The radiation acquires shades of blue and red spectrum. They are very popular due to their cost-effectiveness. It is recommended to use white LEDs in the greenhouse.

Subtleties of organizing wiring in a greenhouse

When running electrical cables in a greenhouse, it is important to consider one characteristic feature. There is always high humidity in the greenhouse. Therefore, the wires should be reliably protected from moisture. This also applies to the watering process. Therefore, the wires should be placed in special boxes. It should be mounted higher from the ground, on the ceiling and walls.

To ensure the most beneficial development of plants, the lighting process inside the greenhouse can be automated. This will cost you at first, but you will experience significant savings later on.

Video: features of lighting in a greenhouse

Heating is inextricably linked with lighting

Heating a greenhouse is directly related to lighting. Therefore, if you decide to carry out the necessary communications, then heating should be in the foreground. Today, several heating methods are known. For example, stove heating. To implement it, you need to build a special vestibule in the greenhouse. The main disadvantage is the low efficiency and labor intensity of the heating process. As for modern technology, this includes water heating and electric heating. It is distinguished by its high efficiency. Plus, it’s quite possible to automate the process using special automation.

There is an interesting technology for heating the ground, this is a kind of “warm floors”. Soil is an excellent conductor of heat, so this technology is in great demand, but requires considerable financial investment. We have prepared several videos on the effectiveness of one or another heating method in a greenhouse.

Video: features of organizing heating in a greenhouse

Ventilation – automatic and manual

Ventilation also affects plant productivity. Today there are several ways to organize ventilation in a polycarbonate greenhouse. The simplest is mechanical, that is, manual. For this purpose, the frame is provided with vents (small windows). If necessary, the vents are opened to allow a change of air. Windows for ventilation can be located at the end of the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is large, there may be several such windows. In principle, this method is suitable for summer residents who live in the country during the period of growing a particular crop.

If your financial capabilities allow, then it is quite possible to build an automatic ventilation system. It comes in several types:

1. Electric.
2. Biometric.
3. Hydraulic.

Automatic ventilation type	Features and differences
Electric	This method of ventilating a greenhouse is considered the cheapest. To implement it, an electric fan and a thermal relay are required. The key link in the entire circuit will be the thermal relay. It will send a signal to the fan when the fan turns on/off. One advantage is that multiple fans and thermostats can be installed along the entire length of the greenhouse. To increase the efficiency of such a system, it is recommended to install windows at different ends of the greenhouse that will open when the fan is turned on. A significant disadvantage is energy dependence. If the power supply is turned off, the ventilation will not work.
Hydraulic	This ventilation option is considered the most effective, reliable and durable. This system consists of levers that are connected to each other by a transom. The principle of operation is as follows: water is poured into the container. When water heats up, it expands; when it cools, it contracts. When the liquid expands, the vents open, and in the reverse order, when the water contracts, the vents close. A vessel installed inside the greenhouse can be used as a thermometer. A container fixed outside is a compensator. Hydraulic hoses are used to communicate the containers with each other. Everything is relatively simple. You can watch the video at the end of this section.
Biometric	In this system, the design and operation of automatic ventilation is possible due to the increase in material as the temperature rises. To implement such a project, two metals with different expansion coefficients are used. As a result, such a system has a low cost, is easy to install, but has a long service life.

Video: organizing ventilation in a greenhouse

Irrigation - water, the source of life

Another important communication is watering. The irrigation method depends on the crop being grown. For example, tomatoes should not be watered from above; water should immediately flow into the root system. Plants especially need watering in the summer. With all this, when organizing watering, you should avoid excess water and its lack, adhering to the golden mean.

This can be achieved through the manufacture of an irrigation system, which can be of the following design:

• sprinkler system;
• subsurface irrigation;
• drip irrigation.

Let's look at the features of each of them.

Sprinkler system. The simplest method is considered to be precisely this method of irrigation, where water comes from above. It is implemented using a shower spray. There is also a fountain sprayer. In this case, water is sprayed using a rotating spray head. Among the positive aspects of such watering are:

• increasing air humidity in the greenhouse;
• imitation of rain irrigation;
• high productivity;
• uniform watering of plants.

Subsoil irrigation. With this type of watering, the roots are immediately fed with moisture. Channels are created in the ground through which water flows. It is evenly distributed throughout the root system of certain plants. Plastic pipes can also be laid to a depth of up to 350 mm. A plastic film is spread at the bottom, then a perforated pipe is placed and the whole thing is covered with soil on top.

Among the positive aspects of this type of watering are:

• significant reduction in weed growth;
• slight moistening of the top layer of soil;
• regular replenishment of the plant’s root system with moisture.

Drip irrigation. Well, the last method of watering is drip. Based on its name, it becomes clear that water is supplied in drops. At the same time, it goes directly to the roots. This solution has a number of positive aspects, for example, water is used rationally, the formation of fungal diseases is excluded, etc.

Each of the described irrigation systems has its own characteristics, and all of them can be automated. It will be necessary to purchase sensors and all kinds of automation.

Video: watering a greenhouse, how best to do it

So, the question of how to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself was examined in detail. If you want to add anything, you can leave reviews and comments on this article. In addition to everything, we offer a series of photographs of ready-made greenhouses. Perhaps they will come in handy when building your own polycarbonate greenhouse.

Photo: options for ready-made polycarbonate greenhouses

Greenhouse made of polycarbonate and metal frame Greenhouse made of polycarbonate with plastic windows and doors In a polycarbonate greenhouse you can carry out the necessary communications