Drawing of a chair with a back. DIY wooden chairs - solid and comfortable

Craftsman Tom McLaughlin designed this chair by combining elements from different furniture styles without sacrificing comfort for beauty. Using templates it is easy to make curved parts. Tom uses three machines to make joints: a band saw, a circular saw and a slotting machine (you can use a drill press with a slotting attachment instead). Having completed the carpentry part of the work, complement the chair with a comfortable seat, which is made in a simple and proven way.

Think carefully before you cut

The design of a chair consists of many parts that require attention and concentration in their manufacture and fitting. Here's what Tom advises.

Shape the legs

1. Using the diagrams as a guide, draw the contours of the posterior leg A real size (Fig. 1). Glue the drawing onto 6mm hardboard and cut out a template, marking the position of the sockets on it. Trace the outline of the template onto the back leg blank and cut with a band saw, keeping the cut close to the contour line. Then cut out the second back leg.

Tom advises! To achieve a better appearance, The texture pattern on the anterior side of both hind legs should be mirror symmetrical. To do this, when marking the contours, useswarm legs turn the template over, swapping its ends (photo A). Then you need to place several legs side by side along the width of the board. This ensures that you get paired parts that look like reflections in a mirror. (photo B).

2. Using double-sided tape, glue the template to the sawn leg blank. Secure a long pin in the collet of the router installed in the table.

piercing cutter with a bearing and adjust its offset, aligning the bearing with the edge of the template. Contour the back legs to the final shape. Mark the top and bottom of each leg with a pencil, remove the template and sand the legs to the outline lines.

3. Cut out the front legs IN(“List of Materials” and rice. 1). Mark those front edges. Angle the saw blade at a 7° angle and cut a bevel on the outside of each leg so that the front edge is wider than the back edge. Without changing the inclination of the disk, cut out two strips of wedge-shaped section 250-300 mm long, which will be required when selecting nests in the legs, under the same corner from the scraps.

Cut out the blanks for the back parts

1. Cut out the bottom crossbar WITH backrests (Fig. 4), but don't make bevels on its top edge just yet. Mark the positions of the four sockets.

2. Cut out the top crossbar D backrests (Fig. 5) with an allowance of 10 mm in length. Make two copies of the top rail template. Glue one copy to the bottom edge, but don't cut out the curved shape yet.

3. For the middle board E and side bars F backrests, make a blank measuring 13 x 178 x 533 mm (Fig. 6). You will saw off the side pieces later after cutting the tenons.

Select all slots

1. Mark the position of the sockets on the legs A, B (Fig. 1 and2) , remembering that the parts must be mirror copies.

2. Select a 10mm socket for the front drawer G in the front legs B (photo C, rice. 2). Rotate the front leg IN so that its beveled edge is adjacent to the stop on the table of the slotting or drilling machine (photoD) and make a 10mm angled socket for the side drawer N. Do the same with the second front leg.

WEDGES WILL HELP INSTALL PARTS IN THE RIGHT POSITION

To ensure that the walls of the socket are parallel to the front edge, place the leg with the beveled edge down, placing a wedge-shaped strip under it.

Place the part with the front edge on the wedge and use the second to secure it in the clamp. Do not use a second wedge if your machine does not have one.

3. If you do not have a large enough piece of workpiece left over from sawing out the rear legs, make a curved support (tsulaga) measuring 90x525 mm (photo E) from scraps whose thickness is equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the leg. It will help hold the leg at the desired angle when selecting a socket for the side drawer.

Transfer the outer marks of the drawer socket to a piece of board, trace the leg template and cut out the curved support-tsulaga with a band saw.

Align the marking lines of the nest on the leg and the tsulag. If the leg rests on the machine table, the socket will be selected at an angle.

4. Using a curved support (photoF), select in the back leg A 10mm socket for side drawer N. Do the same with the second back leg.

5. To select 10mm sockets for the lower backrest rail WITH in the hind legs A Press the flat edge of the leg (in which the previous socket was just made) against the machine stop and select a socket on the inside of the part.

6. Make an 8mm socket for the top rail D dorsum at the top of the hind legs A on the inside, pressing the front side of the part against the stop.

7. Select 6mm sockets in the bottom rail WITH backrests for middle board E and side bars F (Fig. 4).

8. Make the same 6mm sockets on the bottom edge of the top crossbar D for middle board E (Fig. 5). Making nests for the side bars F, insert a 4° wedge between the crossbar D and emphasis (step 2).

Now cut out the thorns

1. Make the simple tenon saw shown in the article “Safely and Easily Sawing Tenons.”

2. To cut tenons in three sizes, use the scraps to make three spacers with a thickness of 6, 8 and 10 mm, as well as a spacer whose thickness is equal to the thickness of the saw blade. The width of the spacers is 75-100 mm.

To cut 10 mm tenons on frames G, H, select a spacer of the required thickness for the first cut. Remove it before the second cut.

3. Cut out the front G and lateral N seat drawers (Fig. 7). Holding the appropriate spacers between the fixture and the part with your hand or a clamp (photoG), file at a 90° angle the cheeks of the tenons at the ends of the front G and lateral N tsarg, lower WITH and top D backrest crossbars, as well as on the blank of the middle board and side bars E/F backrests (Fig. 4, 5, 6 And 7).

Note. On the side drawers N Form 90° tenons only on the front end of the pieces.

(Although the backrest top rail tenons should have a final length of 17mm, make them 22mm long at this stage so you don't have to set up your saw specifically for this.)

Tom advises! Having made cuts on the test scraps that form the cheeks of the tenons, remove excess material using a band saw, but leave an allowance of about 6 mm at the shoulders to avoid jamming the trim between the disk and the longitudinal stop of the sawing machine. Check the fit of the test studs to the appropriate sockets. If the tenon is inserted too loosely, stick one or two strips of masking tape onto the spacer and cut out another test tenon.

Using the same settings, but tilting the saw blade at an angle of 7°, press the outer side of the drawer against the jig and cut out the tenon cheeks.

4. Attach a wooden pad to the head of the cross (angular) stop and make it in the lower and upper crossbars C, D, in preparation for the middle board and side bars E/F, as well as in the front drawer G cuts that form the shoulders of the tenons.

5. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 7° from the vertical and file the cheeks of the oblique tenon with a thickness of 10 mm at the rear end of the side frames N (photo N).

6. Without changing the angle of the saw blade, form the shoulders of the front and rear tenons on the side frames at an angle (photoI, J, TO).

Make the first cut so that the disc barely touches the cheek of the tenon. Using a crowbar and a marking knife, extend the line at an angle of 7° to the edge where you want to make the second shoulder. Finally, place the part on the other side of the disk and cut out the second shoulder according to the marking.

7. Increase the saw blade angle to 8°. Form cheeks and shoulders of 6 mm thick oblique tenons on the lower end of the middle board and side bars E/F just like in 5 steps And 6 (Fig. 6a). Return the saw blade to a vertical position and use longitudinal cuts to separate the side bars F from each edge of the workpiece. Using a jigsaw and chisel, cut a notch in the middle of a wide tenon on both ends of the middle board E (Fig. 6) and add 6mm wide cutouts around the edges (see DIY Tip below).

Make the first cross cut with a jigsaw from one rip cut to the back edge of the other. Then saw off the rest.

Hone your hand tool skills for a precise midplank fit

Making a cutout in the middle of a wide tenon using only machines or power tools is not easy. There is a better solution. Using a band saw or a well-sharpened back saw, make cuts up to the shoulders of the tenon, then use a jigsaw, the narrow blade of which will easily turn in the cut, to remove the excess, leaving a small allowance at the base. Finally, use a chisel to cut the remainder flush with the hangers.

Point the chisel inward at a slight angle. This guarantees the tightness of the joint along the hanger line.

8. Form the upper shoulders of the tenons on the front and side drawers G, N (Fig. 7). Shorten the ends of the top rail tenons D by 5 mm.

9. Dry (without glue) assemble the chair frame, adjusting the tenons of too tight joints using a chisel or file. First, insert the middle board and side timbers into the slots of the top and bottom backrest rails, and then fit the tenons of the rails into the slots of the back legs. Then start adjusting the tenons of the sides to the sockets of the legs. Once you have completed adjusting all connections, separate the parts.

Process all curved contours and narrowings

1. Using a band saw, create curved surfaces on the front and back sides of the top rail D backs and then sand smooth.

With three fingers pressed against the front of the piece, draw a line from the top parallel to the front edge.

2. Glue a second copy of the top crossbar template onto a piece of 6mm hardboard and file along the outline. Using this template, mark the bevel boundaries on the top and back sides of the piece. The marking line on the top side should be parallel to the front rib (photoL). Tilt the band saw table to 27° and cut the bevel along both lines. Sand all curved surfaces smoothly.

3. Mark and band saw the 16° bevels at the ends of the bottom rail C (Fig. 4). Then tilt the saw blade at an angle of 22° and cut the longitudinal bevels. Remove saw marks using a small plane. Using the top rail template, mark an arc on the bottom edge of the bottom rail. Cut out the arc with a bandsaw and sand smooth.

4. Using a band saw, make tapers on the back A and front IN legs (Fig. 1 And 2). Smoothly sand or sharpen the sawn edges.

Sequentially mill chamfers of different widths according to the markings. Then use a small plane and scraper to smooth out the transitions between them.

5. Place marks on the back of the rear legs A at a distance of 178, 470 and 533 mm from the upper ends. Attach an edge cutter for chamfers at an angle of 45° in the router collet and mill successively chamfers of different widths (on both sides of each leg): 6 mm wide from the top to the 533 mm mark, 8 mm wide between the 178 and 533 mm marks, 11 mm wide from 470 mark to last (photo M).

At the 533 mm mark, use a semicircular rasp to round and smooth the chamfer, achieving a smooth rounding.

Note. At the upper end of the leg, the chamfers and the middle flat bevel should be the same width. Do not make the chamfer too wide so that it ends below the shoulder line of the top seat rail.

6. Using a miter plane, make small chamfers around the bottom ends of all legs. A, B. At the upper end of the hind legs A chamfer 3 mm wide at the front and sides (Fig. 1). Then make a 12mm bevel at the back.

7. Finish sand all parts with 220-grit sandpaper using a sanding block.

Tom advises! Before the final sanding step, change all surfaces to raise the pile. This will avoid raising lint when removing wet sponge to remove excess adhesive and you won't have to sand in awkward places around joints.

Move on to assembly and finishing

1. Glue in the middle board tenons E and side bars F into the sockets of the upper and lower crossbars D, C backrests Then glue this assembly to the back legs A. Glue the front drawer G between the front legs IN. After thorough drying, glue in the spikes on the side drawers. N into the sockets of the front and rear legs B, A, fixing the assembled chair frame with clamps.

2. Cut out the front and rear corner braces I, J and install them in place using glue and screws to strengthen the connections between the legs and the drawers and make it easier to install the seat.

3. Apply any finish of your choice. (Tom recommends three coats of Danish oil or any varnish polish.)

4. Make the seat base K and cover it (Fig. 3 And 9). Once you've finished upholstering, attach the seat to the corner braces I, J screws 4.5x50 mm.

Templates

About the author of the project

Tom McLaughlin began carpentry professionally in North Carolina, initially copying classic designs made by famous 18th-century craftsmen. Tom now lives in New Hampshire, where he trains woodworkers in his own workshop - a large three-story mansion surrounded by maples, birches and oaks. He enjoys designing and making new chairs more than anything else. “The challenge of making them as comfortable as possible and looking flawless from all angles sparks a real creative passion in me.” He has designed more than two dozen chairs that have won numerous awards in design competitions.

A chair is the simplest basic furniture in a room. They are produced by many furniture factories, mass production, put on stream. But you want something unusual! That is why some craftsmen decide to make a chair themselves. This doesn't require much.

Varieties

Before you start doing anything, you need to understand what types of chairs there are. The difficulty of doing the work depends on this. The simplest basic chair can be considered a stool. Making it yourself is the easiest and requires practically no skills or special tools.

To begin with, you can practice and make a set of stools for your cottage or garage. When your hand gets full, you can move on to creating more complex designs.

If you’re scared to start with a stool right away, then you can try making a children’s hanging chair like a swing. In order to make it, you will need several medium-width boards, narrow blocks and strong rope.

So, first you need to make a seat. Wide boards are sawn so that three boards can be used to form a square or rectangular seat. On one side, small blocks are nailed with short nails to connect the boards together. The ends of the rope are connected to the four edges of the resulting structure.

Now the structure can be hung from a doorway or a strong tree branch in a summer cottage. For added safety, you can add a backrest and armrests. They are connected in the same way as the parts of the seat. When the work is finished, you can sand, paint and varnish the product.

Other models:

The most popular type of chair is the massive one chair with backrest. They are often for children. All parts of this design are, as a rule, massive and durable. which gives confidence that the child will not fall out of the chair. In addition, it will be difficult for a child to tip such a chair over.

When making this design, you need to carefully ensure that no splinters or other unsanded parts remain.

The next view is similar to the previous one. The only difference between them is that this one has a soft seat. You can make it from a beautiful thick fabric and fill it with cotton wool and foam rubber. Making it is a little more difficult than a massive one, since the soft part needs to be secured to the seat carefully so that the sharp parts do not peek out. You may need to use a staple gun for this.

Armchair chair is based on both previous products, only instead of a soft seat, it is completely upholstered in fabric and foam rubber. It's much more difficult, but worth trying. You can start by updating an old similar chair. Just cover it with new fabric if the old one is frayed. If the experience is successful, then you can already make a collection of such chairs yourself. Sometimes springs are added to the seat to make it softer. There should be a generous layer of soft material on the spring. This design resembles a sofa and is liked by many.

It’s difficult to do it yourself, if only because it requires careful selection of springs. You will have to spend a lot of time in a furniture fittings store.

Folding chair very convenient for a small apartment where you need to arrange furniture as compactly as possible. This type of seat can even be hung on the wall when folded, and lowered only when necessary, when, for example, guests come to the house. Often this type of furniture is used in country houses, where, as a rule, there is never enough space. It is very convenient to take them out onto the veranda or outside.

Another type of chairs that can most often be found in the country is hammock or sun lounger. To make it you will need a beautiful strong fabric and good blocks. A chaise longue provides a base for a hammock. If used without it, the hammock must be pulled between the trees. It is not at all necessary that it be a grid. Moreover, it is not convenient for rest, since the mesh knots dig into the body and interfere with rest. You can take a strong, beautiful fabric and sew a rectangle out of it. Sew sticks on two narrow sides, to the ends of which a strong rope is connected. The same principle applies to a sun lounger, with the only difference being that parts of the sun lounger’s structure – the legs – are attached to the ends of the sticks.

There are several types of chairs that you can hardly make yourself without special skills, tools and experience. These include forged chairs(they need to be made in a forge, this is a very difficult job), school to correct the child’s posture (to make this type you need special knowledge in orthopedics, otherwise you can, on the contrary, harm the child and his posture. In this case, it is better to entrust the work to a professional).

The same type belongs bar chairs, unless they are a simple structure of one leg and seat. As a rule, a simple design is uninteresting and unoriginal. The main distinguishing feature of bar stools is that their legs are much higher than regular ones. The sitting person's feet do not rest on the floor, but on the crossbar on the leg. The height of the bar counter varies, so you need to make a bar stool by carefully measuring everything.

Screw (rotating) chair most often found in homes that have a piano or upright piano. To make this type yourself will require a lot of skills. It is almost impossible to do it on the first try and without experience.

There are some other types. For example, Kentucky, on wheels, chair-saddle, reclining, with armrests, dining, collapsible, on a spring, Viennese, boat.

photos

Sizes and shapes

Chairs come in a wide variety. They accompany a person throughout his life. Acquaintance with them begins when a person is still small - from a high chair. Throughout life, a person uses all kinds of chairs of various shapes, sizes, types and purposes. In old age, many people prefer comfortable, homely ones. cozy rocking chairs.

The shapes of the chairs are also very diverse. Famous world interior designers create haute couture chairs - those that, if they end up in an apartment, are mostly as an exhibit, and not for sitting on. They are very beautiful and expensive.

You can find excellent examples in numerous catalogs of famous designers. Their chair can be round, triangular, rectangular, shapeless. But the classic rectangular or square seat shape is the most common and ergonomic.

If you create a chair with your own hands, then you need to carefully ensure that it fits the size of the table well. If they don't match, it will be uncomfortable to be at the table. Sitting too high will make you want to slouch, and this will cause back pain.

A seat that is too low will force you to raise your shoulders high so that you can rest your elbows on it. Both extremes will have a very negative impact on your posture. That is why the height of the legs, seat, and backrest must be measured very carefully.

Materials

Modern designers use almost any materials to make unusual interior furniture. In words it doesn’t look as beautiful as in reality, because even a heap of rubbish can turn into a masterpiece in the right hands.

The frame material can be anything, usually wood or metal. A solid wood base is definitely the best option. It is the most practical. If the base is made not of wood, but of metal, then special pads are made on the hard legs so that they do not spoil the floor covering. This is especially important if the stool is heavy. It can easily leave unpleasant, but difficult to remove traces.

You can make furniture from cardboard, wood, plywood, profile pipe (corrugated pipe), pallets, polypropylene pipes, chipboard, lining, boards, logs, chipboard, timber, stumps, tires, from improvised means, epoxy resin, glass and wicker.

Manufacturing technology

The complexity of the manufacturing technology also depends on the type of chair. If you strictly follow the instructions, the job will be easy. It is important to choose good material so that it does not cause inconvenience during the work. Good quality wood can be purchased at specialized construction hypermarkets.

The finished product must be sanded so that all sides are smooth. Splinters in furniture, both small and large, are a dangerous thing. A small one may not be noticed, but after it sticks, inflammation will begin. Larger ones leave serious wounds on the body, so the chair must be tidied up before applying the coating. After painting, you need to apply a layer of varnish to make the paint last longer.

The easiest way is to make it yourself buggy chair or bean bag chair. It does not require construction tools: only fabric, cutting and sewing skills, and filler. This chair is a fabric bag filled with pleasant filling. In such a chair it is comfortable to relax and watch TV. Children love buggies very much, so you can sew one for a child's room.

You can find out how to sew a bean bag chair in the following video.

Tools

Those who want to do something themselves at home often turn to stores to buy wood milling machines. They are used in large enterprises, and sometimes in home workshops. It is in woodworking that these power tools are most popular.

Woodworkers note that if you choose a horizontal spindle position, you can start developing round tenons and grooves.

What types of milling cutters are there? There are several types of stationary milling machines. The prices of wood milling machines depend on different characteristics.

They are:

Lungs. Such power tools are used for simple work. Their power is, as a rule, no more than 1 kW. Most often, these devices are used in home workshop activities. These can also include a manual milling cutter.
Average. This category includes more complex devices with a power of up to 3 kW.
Heavy. These are already professional machines that are used in large-scale production. The power of heavy machines is more than 3 kW.

You need to carefully study the catalog of wood milling machines to find power tools of all configurations. The operating principle of the unit is based on the rotation of a cutter mounted in a spindle. This is the main movement of the device. In this case, the workpiece itself is fixed. Auxiliary movement: the unit forces it to make straight and curved movements.

There are models in which these processes occur simultaneously. The online store allows you to find a car that suits your needs. Selecting the right tool is the key to successful work. You will also need other tools, such as a screwdriver, in order to fasten furniture elements with screws.

How to do it?

There are as many options for how to make any furniture as there are its types.

Simple

Above, the article has already described the types of simple chairs - stools and models with a back. Sometimes craftsmen decide to make it bent in order to add smooth lines and grace to the product. This is a good and successful solution, but, as in the case of a rocking chair, you will have to tinker with the bend of the wood. It may not work on the first try.

So, how to bend a board or any block at home? First you need to steam a piece of wood.

You will need the following equipment to carry out the work:

Steam chamber. It will contain the workpiece that needs to be bent.

Heat generator or steam generator. It is important to choose a quality product so that it is safe.

Thermometer. You will need to measure your temperature using a thermometer; it is very important to monitor it.

Hoses different types or diameters of tubes used to connect the generator to the steam chamber.

Steam must come out of the hole under pressure, so it is important to choose the correct diameter. It is important to ensure that it is not excessive, otherwise the camera will burst. If the pressure is insufficient, the effect will not work at all.

At this stage, the thermometer comes into operation. With its help, you need to ensure that the workpiece warms up to the boiling point, that is, up to 100 degrees Celsius. It is at this temperature that the tree becomes pliable and can begin to be bent as required. You can get absolutely any form you want.

Before you start bending, you need to make sure that the bends of all the parts are correctly related. This especially applies to rocking chairs, but you can read about them in the article below.

Step stool

A transformable ladder chair made of wood or metal is very convenient in everyday life. It’s not difficult to make it yourself for your home if you strictly follow the instructions. In this case, the proximity of the actions to the instructions is very important, since in the future it is planned to stand on the product at full height. If performed incorrectly, the person using the stepladder may fall and be injured.

Growing

A very convenient and practical model for a family with a child. The furniture grows with it. The seat needs to be of a constant size, and the legs will consist of two parts that are connected differently, depending on how high they should be.

The screws that will hold the structure in place must be screwed in tightly, but in such a way that after some time it is possible to unscrew them again, disassemble the chair and reassemble it with a new size.

Folding

Some home craftsmen decide to make a homemade folding chair. It's not as difficult as it seems, although there are specific features. The main advantage is that such furniture does not take up much space in the room. Sometimes it can be used not only as furniture, but also as decoration if you hang a beautifully painted chair on the wall.

The design of the chair itself can be completely varied. Sometimes compact models are made from plywood. But most often you can find models from a combination of different tree species.

Rocking chair

Elderly people spend a lot of time in soft chairs or rocking chairs, although the latter are becoming less and less common in modern apartments, as they take up a lot of space and cause great damage to the floor covering.

Making such a chair requires a lot of skill and experience working with wood, because to make the most important part that distinguishes it from other chairs, you will need to bend wooden parts. At the base of the chair are semicircular legs on which the entire structure swings.

To make the simplest model, you only need a jigsaw, a drill and several types of wrenches. With a little experience, such a product can be made in just one day.

Decor options

When the furniture is ready, you need to decorate the product to make it even more individual. To do this, you need to decide in what style the room will be decorated, where you plan to put the finished furniture.

A classic style or chalet will require monotony and clear lines. The increasingly popular shabby chic implies more original options.

Designers advise to do decoupage. This is a handmade version in which the surface is covered with a pattern from a special napkin for decoupage. This technique can be applied to the legs, back, and armrests. And if the furniture does not have a soft seat, then on it. Decoupage requires several tools; they can be purchased at almost any home craft store.

An important feature of this technique as applied specifically to furniture is that it needs to be carefully polished and varnished so as not to spoil the decor during use.

Carved legs and back- a popular decor option. Such decoration can be added by those who are fluent with a jigsaw and other similar tools. If such decorations are made with your own hands, then the furniture will become the highlight of the house. The figured leg is a very original and effective element. The elegant details of the furniture are memorable and give the interior a special chic.

Very simple decorate furniture– make original and unique covers for the chairs. Any beautiful fabric will do for this. You can buy it at the store or use an old blanket.

In addition, some home craftsmen make chairs together with their wives. Men make the base of the furniture, and women knit or sew the seat. Working together brings the family together. You can attract children, then the finished furniture will become even more loved by the family.

Another idea for those families where women know how and love to knit. Can be done gaiters, which will be put on the legs of the furniture. This solution will eliminate two problems at once: a boring design and marks from the legs of a heavy chair on the floor covering. A chair with leggings will not make unpleasant sounds when it is moved, and there will be no lines from the chair on the floor.

Finished wooden chair can be painted. In this case, paints can be mixed, different patterns can be made using masking tape, painted in layers. There is an original option for painting using blots, but this method will require preparation. You need to apply a coat of base paint to the furniture. Do not forget about sanding and priming first so that the paint lasts as long as possible. After this, the finished product must be taken out, for example, into the yard or placed in the center of the room, carefully protected from paint. To do this, you can cover the floor and walls with film or a thick layer of newspapers. Then you need to dip a thick round brush into the paint and start spraying it onto the chair.

You can make blots of several colors or one. It is important to be careful here so that the chair does not look like furniture used for renovation. You should get some kind of smart blots.

Some choose the option for decoration with carriage coupler, others decide to decorate the furniture antique. This option is very elegant, but you need to age furniture wisely. For example, there are special varnishes or other coatings that can make the finished chair look as if it has been used for several decades, and the product can be classified as an antique.

One of these ways is craquelure. The method gives a very unusual effect, but not everyone likes it. It gives the product a similarity to a chair that has old, cracked paint, and this effect looks extremely unusual.

First of all, after the primer, a layer of paint is applied, which will be visible through the cracks. Then craquelure and paint are applied, which will be cracked. It instantly cracks and creates a beautiful effect. This effect must also be secured with varnish when the coating dries so that the decor lasts as long as possible.

And in general, a chair decorated in this way, using white paint as the top layer, will look good in any interior.

Beautiful ideas in the interior

Sometimes furniture requires formal decor.

You can make beautiful drapery yourself. This design can be used for a variety of occasions. The color should be selected in accordance with the overall design of the room. The fabric needs to be draped beautifully and then secured with a wide ribbon.

It is best to take a bow either in a contrasting color or identical to the overall drapery of the furniture.

The fabric calculation should be as follows: you should carefully measure the height of the chair and add 20-25 centimeters to the resulting number. The finished result should be doubled. This is exactly the length a piece of fabric should be. As a rule, the resulting length ranges from one hundred and forty to one hundred and fifty centimeters.

A kitchen chair in the kitchen can be decorated with a thin, elegant cushion. You can also make it yourself. To prevent it from falling when someone sits down or stands up, thin ribbons can be sewn to the ends of the cushion. With their help, you can tie it to the back or legs. As an alternative to ribbons, you can use Velcro.

When the pillow is not needed, you can untie it. If it gets dirty, it can also be easily washed. It will be especially convenient if you make a pillow so that the cover is removable.

Making a chair for a schoolchild yourself is much more difficult, since such furniture requires special skill. If such furniture is improperly designed, it will harm the child. The back should be ergonomic and help maintain posture.

You can decorate the finished chair together with your child, which will help you bond and get him accustomed to work. Whatever the design of the furniture, the child himself, who, in fact, is the owner of the room, and, consequently, the furniture in it, must select it independently. So, girls may want to decorate a chair in a classic or baroque style. Thus, the room will resemble a princess's room.

Boys will probably want to decorate it in a steam-punk style or in accordance with the style of their favorite computer game or comic book. You should not resist such a desire, because then the child may not love his new room and furniture.

Making furniture at home yourself with the whole family is, although very labor-intensive, but entertaining. If all family members are engaged in one common job, then this brings people together. Chairs created by the wife, husband, and children together become a family heirloom. They will tell friends and grandchildren about them.

The process of creating such furniture will be remembered by everyone for a long time; perhaps at family holidays they will remember funny stories that happened during work or ideas that arose during the labor process.

If everyone likes the work, then over time their favorite hobby can bring in some income. Handmade fairs are often held in large cities, where such furniture is rarely found due to the specifics of production, but this does not mean that it is not in demand on the market. Of course, parting with a chair that the whole family made together will be quite difficult. But it will be replaced by another blank, which can be turned into furniture in the same way - together.

Those who are familiar with arranging their home “from scratch” know that this is a very expensive pleasure, from interior decoration to the purchase of furniture. And even such a seemingly insignificant trifle as a chair can cost a pretty penny. One well-made, but completely ordinary chair costs a lot of money, but you need at least three of them. What to do when guests come to celebrate a housewarming? The experience of building chairs with your own hands will help you not only save money on the family budget, but will allow you to create your own original designs that will match the character of the interior and your preferences. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a chair from wood.

Almost any wood is suitable for making a chair, but it is best to start with the cheapest, for example, pine. Later, when you have mastered the basic skills of handling turning tools, you can “swing” at oak, teak, cherry or other elite species.

When choosing lumber for a future chair, you should take into account the pliability of the wood, its color, durability and other characteristics. Thus, oak is very hard, and over time its color becomes darker, and the darker the oak product, the more noble and beautiful it is considered.

Stain is a special substance for treating wood that has coloring properties. It does not cover the texture, but makes the surface a tone darker, allowing you to create the effect of an expensive rock. Thus, you can make the same cherry or merbau from pine in a couple of hours.

To make a chair you will need ordinary turning tools:

hacksaw or jigsaw;
sanding machine or sandpaper of various grain sizes;
drill and set of drills;
wood screws;
screwdriver;
hammer;
stain (if necessary);
varnish or paint for finishing the product.

A little about the finishing of the chair. If you want to preserve the beautiful texture of the wood, coat it with clear (or tinted) varnish. If you plan to use the chair outside, for example, in the garden or on an open veranda, it is better to coat it with PF-170 alkyd varnish or Yacht varnish - these products will protect the wood from fading under the sun and humidity. For “home” chairs, use a special furniture varnish. Nitro varnishes dry quickly, but they emit a pungent odor, so it is better to work with them on a balcony or in a well-ventilated area.

Wooden stool

For those new to the world of DIY furniture, it's best to start with something simpler, like a stool. This is an elementary design, the manufacture of which will give an idea of the basic subtleties of working with wood. If you decide to make a chair from pine, be prepared for the fact that you will have to tinker with sanding, especially if you don’t have a sander. As an alternative, you can use beech - it is quite inexpensive, has a beautiful texture and is easy to work with.

Materials for the stool

For the stool you will need to make 4 bars with a square section of 40 mm, 8 bars of 40x20 mm for the crossbars and a square seat with a side of 350 mm. For the seat, you can use furniture board or thick plywood. Of course, you can knock it down from boards, but a solid surface looks more aesthetically pleasing.

We propose to make a classic stool designed for an adult of average height. The height of the legs will be 42 cm, and they will be held together by crossbars 21 cm long. Before sawing off the excess part, carefully check the evenness of the intended line and compliance with the dimensions. Contrary to the well-known proverb, this should not be done seven times, but at least a couple.

Sanding the stool

When the blanks are sawn, the silhouette of the future stool begins to emerge, but it is still very early to assemble it. First, you need to carefully sand all parts of the structure so as not to plant a splinter in the future. If the surface is very rough, use #4 sandpaper. When you have more or less smoothed out the knots and the surface becomes rough, wipe it with a damp cloth - the water will lift the small short fibers, after which they can be removed with No. 2 sandpaper.

You need to “raise” the wood fibers until the surface becomes perfectly smooth, each time reducing the number of sandpaper. In this regard, an electric grinder is very helpful.

Assembling the stool

Finally, you can start assembling the stool. How to do this is intuitively clear, but there are still some subtleties here.

How to assemble a stool with your own hands:

Helpful advice: Before painting, make holes for future fasteners and do not screw the screws into them completely. Once you have painted the piece, you can tie a thread to this screw and hang the leg or crossbar in the air. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the top part dries, then turn the element over and paint it from below, and this is fraught with the above-mentioned spots and stains.

If you feel a craving for creativity or want to involve children in creating an original interior for the family “nest,” you can paint the chair before varnishing it. Use acrylic paints or regular gouache for this. The decoupage technique is also very popular, which will allow you to create a beautiful drawing even without artistic abilities.

Chair with back

If you have successfully completed the manufacture of a stool, we suggest making a “full-fledged” wooden chair with your own hands. For such a product, you can already choose more solid wood - oak or walnut, for example. In addition to lumber, you will need screws, wood glue, the tools described above and a cutter. If it is not possible to work on a machine, use a set of chisels and a hammer. For tinting you can use the same stain.

Below is a table describing the number and sizes of parts needed to make a chair with a backrest. At first glance, it seems that there are too many of them (especially when compared with a stool), but such a chair will turn out to be very comfortable and will serve for many decades.

To make the task easier for you, we have prepared a visual plan for subsequent assembly with numbered parts. In the future, to create your own exclusive furniture, you will have to make a drawing of a wooden chair yourself.

Progress:

Making chairs from wood is a very interesting and creative process, which over time can develop into a useful hobby. Once you learn how to make basic designs, you can diversify the process by adding your own details, using wood carving tools, and combining different materials. Anyone can make wooden furniture, but you can start with an ordinary kitchen stool!

Wooden chairs: photo

What do you imagine when you hear the phrase “wooden chair”? An ordinary stool or a bulky, roughly processed structure? We have prepared a photo selection of original wooden chairs that will significantly expand your understanding of this piece of furniture.

This article will discuss in detail with drawings and instructions the topic of how to make a chair with your own hands. You'll love these comfortable wooden chairs with a high curved back and a soft seat.

Whether you make a couple of these pieces or a whole set of six chairs, you will be able to appreciate the simplicity and reliability of the design.

Plan the boards to a thickness of 38 mm for the front A and rear B legs of the chair. Mark the legs on the board and arrange them in groups to reduce waste. Size of blanks A - 38x38x419 - 2 pcs., size of blanks B before filing - 38x108x1032 mm - 2 pcs.

Click to enlarge

Using a band saw, cut the rear leg blanks to the dimensions indicated in the drawing. Sand the back and front legs along the contour. Trim their top ends perpendicular to the front. Otherwise, a DIY wooden chair will be unstable.
Mark the holes for the spikes on the front and back legs. Make sure the legs are symmetrical and mirror-like. Below is a short instruction on how to make your own nests.

Use a 6mm Forstner drill bit and clamp it into the chuck of a drill press or drill. Drill out the wood in the sockets

Direct the chisel perpendicularly to align the walls and corners of the socket

Bevel 3mm on both ends of the rear legs B and the lower ends of the front legs A as shown in the drawing above.

Drawers, legs, crossbars and backrest strips

This paragraph will present a large section on how to make a chair, that is, the production of the basic structure. A drawing of a chair with all dimensions and a diagram of the connection of elements will be presented.

From material 18 mm thick, cut out the front frame C, the front and rear legs D, the side frames E and the side legs F according to the following dimensions: C - 18x76x419 - 1 pc., D - 18x38x419 - 2 pcs., E - 18x76x406 - 2 pcs. , F - 18x38x406 - 3 pcs.

From a board 45 mm thick, cut two blanks 76x419 mm for the upper and lower crossbars of the backrest G, H. Save the scraps of blanks that have the same thickness and width as the parts for making test tenons.
In order not to spoil the making of wooden chairs, you need to practice a little. Using a mortise disc, try cutting test tenons on 18mm thick scraps to the dimensions shown in the figure below.

If step 3 was successful and you checked how these tenons fit into the sockets of the legs, then cut out the tenons on the parts C, D, E, F themselves and later in part I.
To make the design of the chair beautiful, mark the arcs on the lower edges of the front C and side F drawers. Cut them out with a band saw and sand along the contour.
Without changing the settings of the saw, cut out tenon shoulders 6 mm deep on the backrest crossbar blanks G, H in the places indicated on the crossbar template. Saw the same hangers on 45 mm thick scraps to make test tenons.

Set the cutting depth to 10mm and cut the first tongue of the tenon on the front side of the crossbars and 45mm offcuts as shown on the template.
Raise the mortise disk to a height of 29 mm and cut out the second cheek of the tenon on the back side of the trim. Check how the tenon fits into the leg socket and change the settings if necessary. Then cut out the second cheek of the tenon on the crossbar blanks.

Make four copies of the crossbar template for the narrow side and two copies of the template for the wide side. Using spray adhesive, glue narrow templates to the top side of the bottom rail blank G and to the underside of the top rail H, joining the halves together as shown. Cut out the crossbars with a slight indentation from the contour lines and save the trimmings.

Note. Wooden chairs are made from different types of wood, for example, solid oak, pine, birch. Plywood is often used.

Then use a 76mm sanding drum or random orbital sander to sand the parts down to the contour lines.
To make a template to support the curved crossbars when drilling the slots for the I strips, saw crosswise one of the outer trims of the crossbars into two halves. Using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, drill out the sockets in the crossbars where indicated on the template. Please note that the bottom rail sockets are 18mm long and the top rail sockets are 38mm long.

Using double-sided tape, adhere the outer cut of the backrest crossbar to the drill press stop. Using this as a guide, drill holes into the backrest slats.

To cut an arc on the upper edge of the crossbar H, glue the outer trimmings to it with double-sided tape. Using spray adhesive, adhere a copy of the front outline template to the front side of the crossbar. Then cut out the arc. Remove any scraps and sand the cut edges smooth. Remove the templates from the narrow side of both crossbars.
To make planks I, cut the material to a thickness of 6 mm. Cut the planks to the specified dimensions. Cut a 6mm deep tenon shoulder at the top end of the planks and a 16mm deep tenon shoulder at the bottom end of the planks. (The 16mm deep shoulder will reduce to 6mm once the planks are finalized.) Lower the disc to a height of 3mm. Saw out the cheeks on both ends. Check how the spikes fit into the sockets of the upper and lower backrest bars.

Video on how to make wooden chairs with your own hands. It's very detailed, be sure to watch it to the end. Interesting features are presented.

Make five copies of the outline template for the planks. Using spray adhesive, glue the templates to the I strips, aligning them with the sawn hangers at the top end. Extend the straight lines of the template to the bottom end of the plank. File the parts along the contour, leaving a small allowance for subsequent sanding. Remove templates.

Chair assembly

Glue and secure with clamps the front frame C and the front leg D between the front legs A, and the strips I between the lower and upper crossbars of the backrest G, H. Check the flatness and squareness of both assemblies.
Glue and secure with clamps the rear leg D and the assembled backrest G/H/I between the rear legs. Check the squareness of the assembly.

Connect the front assembly A/C/D to the rear assembly B/D/G/H/I by gluing the side drawers E and side legs F into the sockets (see detailed diagram of the chair). Check the squareness of the assembly by measuring the diagonals. Leave the glue on a flat surface until it dries.

Cut out the back drawer J and adjust its length to the distance between the side drawers E. Insert the back drawer between the side drawers, aligning the top edges flush. Drill mounting holes into the rear legs B and install screws.

Video about how my grandfather made a cool chair with a backrest with his own hands.

Cut out the corner ties K to the specified dimensions. Make bevels at their ends. With the bevel plane resting the ties on the drill press table, drill counterbore holes with mounting holes in the center. Then place the parts with the edge up, fix them and make countersunk mounting holes in the middle of their length and thickness.

Install the corner ties 3 mm below the upper edges of the drawers C, E, J. Drill guide holes in the drawers through the inclined mounting holes in the ties and screw in the screws.

We're approaching the finish line

Well, we are almost finished making a wooden chair with our own hands.

Sand all parts with up to 220 grit sandpaper and use a sanding block to soften any sharp edges. Carefully remove sanding dust.

If necessary, tint the wood with stain. Then apply two coats of clear varnish.

Watch a video on how else you can make a wooden chair. 7 cool options.

Add a seat

To make your own upholstered L seat, follow the instructions below.
Having finished upholstering the seat, place it on the chair close to the back legs B and in the middle between the side frames E. Using the countersunk mounting holes in the corner braces K, drill pilot holes in the seat L. Attach the seat to the corner braces with screws.

Step 1. Using spray adhesive, glue a piece of sponge to the seat with side trim allowances. Trim off any excess by running a knife blade along the edges of the seat. Try to make the cut strictly vertically.

Step 2: To ensure the edges of the seat are rounded, cut off the top sharp edges of the sponge. To do this, use a marker and a ruler to draw lines 100 mm from the edge into the seat and 25 mm down.

Step 3. Cut the top corners according to the markings made. Maintain a constant angle of the blade, aligning it with the lines on the top and side of the sponge.

Step 4. Place a piece of thick padding polyester measuring 540x540 mm on the workbench. Align the sponge seat with the center of this piece. Wrap the edges of the padding around the seat and secure them with staples. Trim off excess padding at the corners.

Step 5. Align the padded polyester seat with the center of a piece of upholstery material measuring 540x540 mm. Secure the edges of the upholstery with staples in the middle of each side of the seat. Working from the middle of the sides to the corners, pull the edges of the upholstery material taut and secure with staples.

Step 6. Gather the material in the corners and trim off the excess, leaving about 20 mm from the seat. As you stretch the rest of the upholstery, spread it evenly with staples. Trim off any excess material.

Examples of chairs

Please write your questions or comments in the comment box. Our experts will answer them.

If it’s still worth thinking about the cost-effectiveness of a homemade stool, then making a chair yourself is definitely justified: an ordinary common chair from a home workshop can look no worse than a store-bought one, but will cost 2-3 times less. This is if you purchase material “from scratch” without using accumulated reserves. And if you go for something exclusive, which is quite possible for an average craftsman with a chair, then the savings will reach simply unimaginable limits.

There is one more important point. A chair differs from a stool not only technically, as will be discussed later, but also ideologically. A stool is an essentially utilitarian product; it is generally considered bad form to keep stools in the living room, or better yet poufs. And a chair is one of the pieces of furniture that determines the face of the interior no less than a table, or even more.

Subtle experts in etiquette judge a person's dignity by the quality and condition of his shoes, and the state of his affairs by the chairs in the house. If a person has the ability, time and desire to make a chair with creativity and taste, then he deserves trust, even if he is still in cramped circumstances. And these are only non-transformable chairs, folding chairs and, say, step-ladder chairs - a special class of joinery products.

The coniferous tree from which such good stools were made is definitely not suitable for a chair, even hard larch. Reason: any coniferous wood is straight-layered, and in the chair there are loads that can cause chipping along the layer - I would like to see less, but where can I go? Coniferous wood will only go into a chair in the form of plywood on the base of the seat.

For a wooden chair, use deciduous, fine-grained, dense, durable species: oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, elm, rowan. Birch will be used for children's chairs; and birch plywood - for folding ones. Preparation conditions are general for furniture: room dryness (8-12%), not chamber drying, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion or other harmless biocides, for example, highly purified mineral oil for furniture, oil-wax compounds, acrylic compounds for furniture.

Wood for a chair will cost less if you take it not sawn, but in solids, and cut it yourself using a circular saw or an angle grinder with a circular saw in a homemade frame. For some products, such as bar stools, you cannot do without solid wood, since lumber of the required width is either not available or is very expensive. In this case, you need to know that solid wood is sold for decorative and structural purposes. The latter are more expensive, since their mechanical properties are standardized and checked, while decorative solids are not.

The last thing to consider when choosing wood for a chair is that “decorative” defects are unacceptable. In a stool or tabletop, slanted, twisted, tightly fitting knots can be beneficial, ultimately giving a beautiful texture, but a chair made from such wood will soon break.

To make furniture from solid wood or plywood, you will need carpentry tools. The ideal processing of structural parts is obtained on professional woodworking machines, which are usually owned by carpenters who have their own workshops. Of course, to begin with, it will be enough to have a hand tool, which craftsmen have used since ancient times before the advent of various mechanized devices, but when using it, you need to be patient and prepare for long and very labor-intensive operations to process the material. Therefore, the best option would be to purchase or at least rent electric hand tools for working with wood. These include:

An electric jigsaw will allow you to quickly and smoothly cut any desired shape of a part from a board or plywood. After cutting wood or plywood with this tool, the edges are smooth, but the cut corners remain straight, which is not very aesthetically pleasing or convenient for pieces of furniture such as a chair, stool or table. Therefore, a router is used to perfectly process parts, round corners or give them a shaped shape.

Hand router - this tool is indispensable for working with wood. It is necessary not only for edge processing of finished parts, but also for selecting grooves and holes included in the system of fastening units.

A grinding machine will significantly speed up the finishing of surfaces and corners of parts. It will help remove large and small burrs remaining after the initial processing and make the surface perfectly smooth.

Grinding machines can be eccentric rotary, vibrating, or belt. To go with them, you need to purchase appropriate sets of abrasive paper of varying degrees of grain size (for wood, from P80 to P400 is usually used).

Screwdriver. This tool is useful not only in the manufacture of furniture, but also for performing many other works in the apartment, and even more so in a private house, so purchasing it will never be a waste of money. It can easily replace not only screwdrivers, but in some cases also a drill, so you need to select a set of drills of different diameters for it.

Clamps of various working lengths are intended for tightening the parts of a structure to be glued together or for adjusting elements during trial assembly. Thanks to this tool, the connections between the elements will be stronger and more reliable, which is important for pieces of furniture that will constantly experience high loads.

In addition, the work will require the simplest tools - a hammer, a construction square, a tape measure, a 500÷1000 mm ruler, a marking pencil, a knife, and pliers.

In order for the work to be carried out efficiently, you need to prepare a comfortable place for yourself, and it is best if it is a spacious, reliable workbench.

This type of furniture, such as a folding chair, is indispensable in many life situations. Especially if the house is small and it is difficult to place large furniture in it, and guests need to be seated for the holidays. And if you are suddenly planning to go on a picnic, then you will undoubtedly need such a chair.

In order to make an ordinary folding chair, you will need:

Legs 4x2x47 cm - 4 pieces;
Crossbars for supporting the seat bars 4x2x32 cm - 4 pieces;
Legs 4x2x32 cm – 2 pcs;
For the seat: 9x2x35 cm – 2 pieces, 6x2x35 cm – 2 pieces;
Bolts with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of up to 4 cm - 6 pieces;
To attach the poles directly to the legs, as well as the bars to the support crossbars, you need self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 4 to 5 cm.