Repairing electric kettles: do it yourself, video and diagram on how to repair a kettle, device and contact group. How to fix an electric kettle at home Why the electric kettle does not turn on - working stand

Classically shaped teapots have a wide bottom. Electric boilers have a smaller bottom circumference. They require less space to place on the table, but they are taller. This was done so that the devices could hold more water. Despite the practicality of modern devices, kettle repair remains a popular service.

Most models of electric kettles today turn off on their own after the water boils. There are modifications with manual shutdown. Before first use, it is recommended to fill the product with water and bring it to a boil. It is also necessary to wash the kettle at least 2 times before use. If the products have not been used for a long time, you should do the same steps. Modern devices are made of heat-resistant plastic or stainless steel.

Before cleaning electrically powered devices, you must unplug them. If they are cold, wash the outer surface with a damp cloth. The use of abrasive substances is prohibited. Water is heated thanks to the presence of a special element inside the kettle. It is attached to the body. Fixation is achieved using:

threaded bushing;
metal nuts;
screws holding the housing to a watertight seal.

Often such seals cause leaks. In the latest models on the market, the disc element is closed and located at the bottom of the water compartment. This is done to make cleaning surfaces simpler and easier. This measure also ensures better descaling. In various models, seals are made in the form of:

gaskets;
washers;
bushings

As soon as the water boils, steam enters a tube or small hole, passing onto a disk or bimetallic plate. These components are designed in such a way that they bend when heated, thus turning off the kettle.

A safety device is provided in almost all models. It is responsible for turning off the device after the water boils. This element is triggered if someone turns it on without first pouring water. In addition, modern products are designed in such a way that the user can visually control the amount of liquid poured.

To connect to the power supply network, there is a cord or wire, the feature of which is flexibility. At one end there is a plug, and at the other there is a power connector block. It has sockets that provide contact. A coiled power cord is provided to save desk space. It is also good for families with small children, as it is less accessible to them.

This device has a base-stand on which the block and power connector are connected. Connection to the electrical network is carried out thanks to a cord that is connected to this very stand. Due to this design, it is possible to pick up the kettle without removing the plug from the socket.

There are modifications that are installed in a fixed position on the base. However, modern products can be placed facing any direction. The base also has a special compartment for storing excess cord. Cordless kettles contain:

It would seem that there is nothing simpler than filling a kettle with water. But if this process is not performed correctly, serious problems and even accidents can occur. Before pouring water, you must remove the plug from the power supply and disconnect the cord from the kettle.

Cordless models removed from the base. Be sure to check whether the water covers the heating element. You need to pour at least one cup into the kettle. Underfilling can cause failure of individual components of the device. If there is a lot of liquid, it will turn off without bringing it to a boil. At the same time, boiling water will splash out.

A tight seal on the lid is very important. Without it, the automatic shutdown device will not work. If the kettle is equipped with a cord, wait until the water stops boiling, and only then remove the plug from the socket.

Before you start repairing electric kettles, it makes sense to check basic things. For example, you should make sure that the kettle is turned on and that the plug is firmly plugged into the socket. The power connector must also be well inserted. In a cordless kettle, you need to check whether it is positioned correctly on the base.

Disassembly of the device must be carried out according to the rules. The classic option is to remove the base cover, after which the mounting screws located at the bottom of the handle and in its upper area are removed. After this, remove the handle itself, the plastic rocker, and any parts that interfere with further manipulations. Lift the switch and inspect the metal plate for defects.

First of all, you need to inspect the filter. Modern devices contain mesh products for cleaning liquids from scale particles. These items can be replaced in a workshop. The filter should not be removed until the water in the kettle has cooled down. Normally, these products are removed from the surface easily and without much effort. When they become clogged with scale particles, you have to wash them with a nylon brush under running water.

If there are more serious deposits, you will have to soak the filter in descaling agent or plain vinegar overnight. Before use, you will have to wash it thoroughly with water. You will also need a new filter to replace the damaged one.

Some users notice that the water begins to boil more slowly than usual. This may be due to a thick layer of scale on the heating element. Gradually, it begins to overheat, which causes the protection switch to trip prematurely. To get rid of lime deposits, use an anti-scale agent that does not damage plastic.

For this procedure, fill the kettle halfway with water and bring to a boil. Turn it off and remove the plug from the socket. Add the amount of product indicated in the instructions to the water and leave until the bubbles on the surface disappear. This is usually enough to fix the problem. If deposits still remain, turn on the kettle and heat until the water hisses. It cannot be brought to a boil. Drain the liquid, add a new portion of water and boil. Drain again and rinse. If a lot of deposits have accumulated, you will have to re-treat.

The circuit breaker sometimes fails to operate when steam is not discharged properly. Normally it is directed to a bimetallic strip. It is responsible for the functions of the switch. This happens if the lid is not tightly closed. To fix the problem, simply turn off the device and let the water cool. After this, close the lid so that it fits tightly to the surface.

The situation when the steam outlet is blocked often occurs in older models of kettles. In this case, the steam is not directed through the corresponding hole or tube. In modern products, this area is larger in size, and therefore, to clog it, a larger amount of scale is required, detached from the heating element. To eliminate such a malfunction, clean the kettle from scale and carefully inspect the steam outlet.

When absent automatic shutdown of the device The switch is probably to blame. The bimetallic strip cannot activate it. This happens when the switch pusher gets stuck or the plate itself is damaged. Classic types of switches act as a component for fastening the heating element. Therefore, checking such products and replacing them becomes a real problem. Accordingly, in such cases you cannot do without the help of a specialist.

The switch on a jug teapot often plays the role of a separate part that is installed in the handle. Accordingly, you can inspect and check it by removing the casing. This can be tricky as they sometimes use screws with non-standard latches and heads. If inspecting an element is accompanied by difficulties, it is better to shift this task to a professional.

After removing the switch cover and handles, remove the rocker arm located on top of the switch. The upper and lower parts must be marked so that in the future it will be possible to correctly assemble the structure. It is likely that the mounting screws, as well as several parts, will also have to be dismantled. This is required to lift the switch.

Subsequently, the object is turned over and the disk along with the metal plate is examined. Check how smoothly the stroke of the pusher, which is responsible for controlling the switch, operates. If there is no mechanical damage, touch the contacts with the probes. This is how the ability to pass current is tested. This procedure can be performed if the wire is disconnected from at least one of the contacts. If the wires are soldered, you will have to head to the workshop.

This problem is also not uncommon. This is not surprising, since electric kettles operate for a long time and sometimes cannot withstand such voltage. Some part becomes loose, causing the device to malfunction.

To understand, you need to study the structure of the device. If you find a broken part, you must go to a specialized customer service center. Sometimes the water indicator breaks down. To determine the presence of such a malfunction, remove the cover that covers the switch. There is a plastic indicator here. It shows the presence of certain defects.

The appliance may leak due to a weakened heating element. Quite often it can be repaired by tightening the nuts and screws that act as fastenings for the classic heating element. If the leak is not eliminated in this way, you will have to go to a specialized center. It employs experts who are well versed in solving problems.

When the gasket is damaged, tightening the fastening elements alone is not enough. The gasket rarely causes water to leak in the kettle, but if this happens, you need to replace the damaged element with a new one. This is the only way to resolve this problem.

There could be several reasons for this. Probably, the plug with which the kettle cord is equipped is non-separable. You can try changing the fuse and see what results it gives. If all other devices powered by electricity stop working, you need to check the shield. It's worth checking to see if the fuse has blown. Sometimes this indicates that the RCD has tripped.

When the appliances have a faulty cord and a break, repairing electric kettles no longer makes sense. The easiest way is to go to a parts store and buy a new one. When the switch wears out badly, it practically cannot be fixed in the on position. In this case, you can change it in a workshop or buy a new device for heating water.

When the kettle works even after the water has boiled, the protection switch may be triggered. It is recommended to leave the kettle without adding water for at least 10 minutes. During this time, the protection switch should turn on on its own. Damage to the heating element results in the kettle not working, despite the measures taken. Sometimes it depends on the model. On some older modifications, after the protection is triggered, you have to turn it on yourself.

Recently, a kettle broke in our office. On the same day we bought a new one, because... There is nothing to do at work without a kettle. Nowadays, a kettle is not expensive, but, nevertheless, I want to tell you how you can bring an electric kettle to life without special knowledge and tools.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos because I didn't intend to write an article on this topic. In general, let's take a little break from design.

Our kettle was from BOSH. The company is good, but to disassemble such a kettle you need to sweat a lot. After 5 minutes of analysis, I realized that I needed to ask Yandex for help. Fortunately, I found a video on YouTube of the analysis of exactly such a kettle.

Somehow, but I almost took it apart, although it was only possible to unscrew the lower part where the heating element is installed.

To repair a kettle, like any other electrical appliance, you need to know its design.

The main elements of the kettle are: heating element, thermostat, button, signal lamp.

Always try to improvise. If you don’t know something, don’t be afraid. First of all, check all contact connections. Then you need to check the heating element.

If the heating element in your kettle burns out, then you can throw the kettle in the trash.

In my case, it was necessary to remove the bottom part of the kettle to get to the heating element. To find out the condition of the heating element we need a multimeter.

If the heating element is working properly, then its resistance will be about 25 Ohms. The resistance depends on the power of the kettle:

R= U 2 /P=220 2 /2000=24.2 Ohm

If your kettle stops working, it is most likely due to the failure of the button with the contact. You can try cleaning the contacts. I didn’t succeed - I broke it, perhaps it was already broken.

Due to the fact that at home it is practically impossible to find a spare button or another element of the kettle, we have only one way to bring the electric kettle back to life - to connect the heating element directly to the power wire.

One wire that comes from the network will already be connected to the heating element, and the second wire needs to be reconnected bypassing the button. I think it will not be difficult for you to connect the two necessary wires.

I got it all quite primitive:

This scheme has more disadvantages than advantages, but the kettle works if used correctly and does not require complete disassembly of the kettle, and this is very important.

These simple steps can extend the life of your kettle. Of course, using such a kettle is not entirely convenient, since you need to control its operation.

Only after I assembled the kettle did I realize that it was possible to leave the thermostat and lamp in the circuit, removing the contact with the button from the circuit.

Ideally, it should have turned out like this:

If the design of the kettle is repairable, then this will not be difficult. In the case of BOSH, it is better not to try, because... it will be very difficult to assemble it, and some of the latches will simply break during disassembly.

I was fiddling with the kettle not because I wanted to fix it. I was just wondering, and if an old thing can be revived, then it’s also nice.

Don't rush to throw away household appliances. Perhaps minimal repairs will extend the service life

Often such an unpleasant situation arises as the kettle breaking down, and at the most inopportune moment. You can return a broken electrical appliance for repair, but this will take time. There may also be no available craftsmen and you will have to go without a kettle even longer. Or, perhaps, the cause of the failure could be a minor, easily fixable malfunction - then it would be a pity for the money wasted on repairs.

In general, why not try to do the repairs yourself, saving time and money? In this article we will provide recommendations that will help you identify a malfunction of the electric kettle and, if possible, eliminate it.

Electrical circuit and operating principle of an electric kettle

Most electric kettles, regardless of their cost, have a similar design. For clarity, here is a typical diagram of an electric kettle:

In order to troubleshoot an electric kettle, you need to understand the principle of its operation. Let us briefly describe the principle of operation of the above diagram, clearly showing all the elements of the scheme. Electricity from the household network flows through the plug and wire to the stand.

Next, the current flows from the stand to the kettle through a special contact part. Directly in the electric kettle, the grounding conductor is connected to the metal parts of the electric kettle. The neutral and phase conductors in a special unit are routed to terminals 1 and 2 (see diagram).

The same unit contains thermal protection - a thermal relay. The electrical diagram shows that the thermal relay is located in a phase conductor break.

Thermal protection serves to protect the kettle from damage if the kettle is turned on without water, or if the kettle lid is open and it works for a long time without automatically turning off. In normal mode, the thermal relay contact is in the closed state. It opens in case of excessive overheating for the above reasons.

The kettle power button allows you to manually turn the kettle on and off; it has a bimetallic plate, which, when a certain temperature is reached, turns off the button - that is, when the water boils, this button automatically turns off the electric kettle.

An indicator lamp or backlight is connected parallel to the terminals of the heating element of the kettle, depending on the design features of the electric kettle. This can be a regular lamp or LED backlight connected via a power driver.

So, let's start troubleshooting. First of all, you need to make sure that the reason for the kettle’s inoperability was not the activation of the above-described thermal protection. If there was an operation, then you need to wait until the protection returns to its original state - that is, until the contacts close. If the protection did not operate, we proceed to troubleshooting.

Don't rush to disassemble the kettle. Very often, the reason why the kettle does not heat is a lack of contact between the contact elements of the electric kettle and the stand or a broken contact in the power cord and plug.

Unscrew the screws on the stand and remove the cover. We take a multimeter and check the integrity of the cord from the plug to the contacts. In inexpensive electric kettles, in order to save money, the manufacturer uses a cord with a cross-section that is lower than the permissible load of the electric kettle.

For example, for a 2 kW kettle, a supply wire with a cross-section of 0.75 square meters is installed. mm, but in fact there may be an even smaller cross-section. During operation of the electric kettle, such a wire heats up, which can ultimately lead to its damage or burnout at the point of connection to the plug.

If the test shows a broken wire, then you need to purchase a new wire with a larger cross-section that matches the load of the kettle. For example, for a 2 kW kettle, a wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 square meters will be sufficient. mm. You also need to purchase a new plug - a Euro plug designed for a load of 16 A will do.

Regardless of whether this is the reason why the kettle is not working at the moment, you should clean the contacts from carbon deposits and bend them a little, ensuring greater rigidity of contact with the electric kettle.

You should put the stand on the kettle, and pay attention to the contacts - they should bend when installing the kettle on the stand. If the contact does not press, it means it is loose and needs to be slightly bent upward. You cannot bend the contacts too much, so as not to move them out of place.

We assemble the stand and check the functionality of the electric kettle. If the kettle still does not work, then we proceed directly to troubleshooting inside the electric kettle.

Checking the functionality of the electric kettle heating element

A situation is possible when the indicator light (backlight) of the kettle lights up, but the kettle itself does not heat. In this case, there are two reasons - the heating element has burned out or the contact at the point of connection to the heating element has been broken. Remove the lid of the kettle by unscrewing several screws. Certain types of kettles, including the one discussed in this article, in addition to screws, have special grooves that hold the kettle lid.

Without experience in opening electrical appliances, you can damage the electric kettle, adding another one to the existing fault. To remove the cover, you need to bend it inward. Insert screwdrivers into the existing holes - first into holes 1 and 2, then into 3 and 4. By bending the cover inward, the grooves securing the cover come out and it is removed.

Let's go back to troubleshooting. We check the integrity of the circuits inside the kettle. Next, we check the integrity of the heating element by sliding the insulation to access the terminals. We set the multimeter in resistance measurement mode to the lowest limit - in this case 200 Ohms and measure the resistance of the heating element.

The device showed a resistance of 24.1 Ohms, which indicates the serviceability of the heating element. A burnt-out heating element shows a very high resistance - the multimeter will show several megohms. You can also check the heating element with a multimeter in dial mode.

If the heating element is working properly, the device will show a small voltage drop, and if the heating element is faulty, the device will show a break - one.

If there is a need to remove the terminals, then you should not rip them off, as is often done out of ignorance. When put back in place, a torn terminal will not ensure normal contact and will cause the kettle to fail next time.

The terminals are easily removed if you lightly press a sharp object into the hole, while simultaneously tightening it. If there is insulation on the terminal, it must be moved before removing the terminal.

A normally removed terminal is also easy to put back on. But in any case, it is necessary to check the reliability of the contact, and if the terminal is not put on tightly enough, then it should be removed and slightly pressed with pliers.

If the check shows that the heating element is faulty, then in this case it is necessary to think about whether it is advisable to purchase a new heating element. If the kettle is inexpensive, then installing a new heating element will cost the same as a new kettle.

If the heating element is working, but the kettle does not heat, then you should check the integrity of other circuits. It is necessary to check whether voltage is supplied from the contact part of the kettle to terminals 1 and 2.

We use a multimeter as shown in the photo. If one contact rings and the other does not, this indicates that the thermal relay contact, which was mentioned at the beginning of the article, is open. There are cases of spontaneous opening of protection contacts.

If there were no signs of overheating, the kettle did not turn on without water, but the thermal protection contact was open, then this indicates a malfunction of this element. You can try to bend the bimetallic plate (or plates, depending on the design of the electric kettle), ensuring the closure of the protection contact.

If the fault cannot be eliminated, it is recommended to completely replace the unit. It is also possible to turn on the circuit directly, without thermal protection, by forcibly closing the contacts in this node. But you should remember the consequences of the lack of thermal protection.

If you turn on the kettle without water and there is no protection, the heating element will heat up until it burns out. This may cause the kettle to catch fire. To avoid negative consequences, you should not operate the electric kettle without a thermal relay.

Another reason for the electric kettle not working may be a broken kettle power button. The inoperability of the button is determined by making a connection between terminal 1 and the output of heating element 3 (see diagram).

If, when the button is in the on position, the device shows a break between contacts 1 and 3, this indicates that the button is faulty or the integrity of the contact at the point of connection to the button is broken. It is necessary to open the part of the electric kettle body on the handle, gaining access to the button and, depending on the malfunction, restore the integrity of the contact or replace the button.

There are also certain types of electric kettles with built-in electronic devices that provide timer functions and adjust the temperature of water heating. If such a kettle malfunctions, you can check the components discussed in this article - heating elements, contacts, connecting conductors. But if the cause of its malfunction is the failure of electronic components, then to eliminate such a malfunction you need to have the appropriate skills and qualifications - therefore it is better to have such a kettle repaired by an experienced specialist.

Typical faults

An electric kettle is a simple device that contains few elements that can fail. But there are still common problems, among which are the following:

slow heating of the liquid;
the device turns off prematurely;
the kettle does not turn off;
the device does not turn on;
heating element burnout;
Water is leaking from the housing.

Slow heating of liquid

If you notice that the kettle does not heat the water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of scale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which is why it takes more time to heat the water. If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.

In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn.

To get rid of scale, you can use regular citric acid, sold in stores. It is enough to pour 1-2 sachets of citric acid (20 grams each) into the tank, bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in the container for 30 minutes. After this, the container must be rinsed well with running water to remove any remaining scale. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.

The device turns off prematurely

This behavior of an electric water heater is explained by the fact that the device shutdown may be due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it trips and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to descale the heaters.

The kettle does not turn off

When water boils in the apparatus’s container, steam should be collected under the lid and directed through a special channel to the thermostat. If the lid is not closed tightly, this will not happen and the appliance will operate without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole, which is located on the side of the handle, is not contaminated with scale. If everything is fine with the hole, we can assume that the kettle does not turn off due to thermostat failure.

The thermostat of the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the body, and to get to it to replace it, you will have to completely disassemble the device.

For example, we took an ordinary budget device, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as in the Vitek VT-7009(TR), the container is made of heat resistant glass. So, let's analyze the unit using the following algorithm.

Repairing a kettle should begin with disconnect it from the power supply. Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws located on its bottom panel.
After this, it is necessary to pry off the plastic cover located on the handle with special care using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different device models the latches may be located in different places and can be easily broken.
After removing the cover, you can see the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.
After unscrewing all the fasteners, using a little force, disconnect the handle with the cover from the body.
Next, disconnect the housing from the bottom of the unit.
At the bottom of the case you will see all the main elements of the device: contact group, thermal relay and heating element.
pay attention to bimetallic strip(on the right in the picture). If damage is visible on it or it has a worn-out appearance, then this may be the reason why the electrical appliance has stopped turning off. The plate is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.

But how to disassemble a Bosch kettle if, when you unscrew all the screws on the bottom, it does not come off? Those who disassembled such a device encountered difficulties, which often ended in the breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite difficult to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.

The device does not turn on

There may be different reasons why your boiler won't turn on.

Faulty electrical cord and plug. To do this, you will need to “ring” the cord using a tester, touching the probes to the contacts of the plug and the contacts on the stand (base). If a break is detected, the cord should be replaced with a new one.
Poor contact in the stand(base). Long-term operation can cause the contacts to burn, which impairs their conductivity. If burns have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But if they melt, they will need to be completely replaced.
Internal switch faulty in the device. Since the switch has to experience quite heavy loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts may melt over time. This may cause the device to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and if there is a malfunction, it looks as shown in the figure below.

In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a malfunction of the button, in which you can fix the kettle yourself without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts that close in the “on” position. If on them carbon deposits form, the device will not turn on.

To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine-grained sandpaper, a nail file or a thin file. To make cleaning more convenient, you will need to slightly “rework” the button, namely, remove the edges using pliers.

Another reason why the device does not want to work is mechanical power button malfunction. This breakdown most often occurs in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic slats are built into the handle of the electrical appliance, which transmit translational movement from the outer button to the inner one, located at the bottom of the unit.

Once this part breaks, turning on the Tefal kettle becomes impossible. To understand in more detail how to repair an element that has broken, you can watch the video, which discusses one original way to correct the defect.

Heating element burnout

When repairing electric kettles, both older models and newer ones, the most common breakdown is a burnt-out heating element. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating if scale is not removed in a timely manner.

Before repairing a kettle with a disk heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit in the manner described above. After this, take the tester and connect the probes of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the light on the device lights up or it makes a sound, then the heating element can be considered working.

How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out to be very simple. It is necessary to connect the zero from the electrical network to one contact of the heater, and the phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 light bulb into the socket from which 2 insulated wires come out. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater, and the other to the opposite one. If the light comes on, it means the heating element is working.

If it turns out that the disk heater has burned out, it cannot be replaced, since it is one piece with the bottom of the electrical appliance, such as in the Scarlett kettle or Vitek VT-7009(TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heating elements can be replaced.

Water is leaking

If you notice that water is flowing (leaking) from the device’s reservoir, it is recommended to use such a device for a while until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the seepage of liquid. If this does not help, you will have to buy a new “boiler” if the warranty period has expired.

Another reason that the tank is leaking could be loose connection between the electric heater and the device body(if the heating element is open type). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber sealing gasket, which is worn out.

Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair a boiling water unit on your own. But if you lack certain skills in repairing household appliances, then the best option would be to buy a new kettle. Repairs at a service center are not justified from a financial point of view, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.

An electric kettle is the most common household appliance that every family probably has today. Its popularity is due to its speed of boiling water, which is superior to other heating methods. Therefore, these simple devices have won a special place not only in the home, but also in offices and other workplaces, where you can enjoy hot tea or coffee during a break. But, like any other equipment, an electric kettle can also fail, and its owners will probably have a question: is it possible to fix this device with your own hands, without going to a repair shop?

Design and principle of operation of electric kettles

An electric kettle is a household appliance, the design and operating principle of which can be understood even by a person who knows little about technology. All kettles are designed the same way, regardless of the model, and work according to the same scheme. They consist of the following main components and elements:

the body, which is also a flask for water (some models of electric kettles have a separate bowl placed in the body);
a heating element in the form of an open spiral, similar to a boiler, located directly at the bottom of the water container or (like most modern electric kettles) in the form of a disk heating element;
This heating element is located at the bottom of the water flask
The disc has a smooth surface on the inside
a stand (base), on which there is a connector for connecting the kettle and a power cord for connecting to a household electrical outlet (all modern electric kettles that are cordless have it);
The base is only available in cordless models
power connector pads on the bottom of the kettle base, which can have a central (like most models) or side location;
a thermostat that serves to turn off the kettle when it boils;
This type of thermostat is installed under the button
power buttons.

Today on sale you can find electric kettles with a thermostat, with which you can heat water not only to 100°C, but also to any desired temperature, and even maintain this temperature for a certain time. This property is necessary for proper brewing of various types of tea (black, green, white, red), each of which requires water at different temperatures from 60 to 90°C. An electric kettle with a thermostat is an ideal purchase if there is a small child in the family. After all, preparing baby food formulas does not require boiling water, and with the help of such a device you can set the desired temperature. And for adults, repeated boiling of water is highly undesirable if they adhere to a healthy diet.

In this model, the control panel is located on a stand

Naturally, each model of electric kettles has its own design features, but they are not fundamentally different in design.

The operating principle of the electric kettle is also quite simple. When heated, the heating element heats the water in the flask until it boils. Steam is supplied through special channels to the bimetallic plate of the thermostat, made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion; when it bends, it presses on the button lever or opens the contact terminals, disconnecting the device from the network.

The diagram shows the movement of steam through the channels in the handle, but the tube in the kettle itself can also be used for this purpose

The most common faults

The following malfunctions are typical for electric kettles:

Failure of the heating element. The cause of the defect is scale formed on the heating element, which makes it difficult to transfer heat to water, and the coil itself heats up. Heating elements of the spiral type are more susceptible to such damage than disk heating elements, which require more time to form a critical layer of scale. The reason for the burnout of the heating element can also be a violation of the operating rules, for example, if the kettle was plugged in, forgetting to pour water into it.

The electric kettle power button is broken. There are two possible reasons for this - the formation of carbon deposits and oxidation on the contacts of the button, or a break in the rod connecting it to the power supply terminals.

Leakage in the housing of an electrical appliance. This malfunction is more typical for kettles with a plastic body, as well as those equipped with a disk heating element. In the first case, the breakdown may be a consequence of deformation of the kettle due to overheating at the place where the heating element is attached, and with disk heaters, the cause is corrosion along the seam connecting the disk to the body of the electric kettle. Often the cause of such a breakdown is a deteriorated seal or cracked glass of the water level indicator.

Premature shutdown of an electrical appliance. This malfunction is a consequence of scale. The water does not have time to boil, but the heating element has already overheated and the thermostat disconnects the device from the network.

Failure of the thermostat. The design of electric kettles with a thermostat contains additional components and parts - a thermometer, temperature sensors, a memory unit, an electronic board and a control panel. The more parts a device has, the lower its reliability and the higher the likelihood of any of them breaking. In kettles with thermostats, the regulator itself most often fails, in which the contacts oxidize or burn.

Breakdowns that allow you to return the electric kettle to the store

You can return a faulty electric kettle to the store during the warranty period if during this period its significant shortcomings have appeared, namely the following faults:

irreparable damage;
periodically repeated breakdown of the same unit;
a breakdown that cannot be repaired without disproportionate costs close to the cost of the kettle itself;
a malfunction that requires a long time to eliminate, as a result of which the device cannot be used for more than 30 days throughout the year.

There can be a variety of malfunctions here, but the most serious of them are leaks not associated with mechanical damage and leaky gaskets, but arising due to deformation of the housing or damage as a result of corrosion processes.

Significant breakdowns include the failure of the heating element, provided that the kettle was used correctly and there is no scale on the heating element.

Electric kettles are household appliances that are included in the list of technically complex goods. Therefore, you can return them back to the store with a refund of the money paid only if they are of inadequate quality. When contacting the store with a written complaint, you need to indicate a breakdown that is often repeated or requires costs. comparable to the cost of an electric kettle.

The seller has the right to offer the buyer to contact the service center, but if the breakdown has not been fixed within 20 days, the store is obliged to return the money or exchange the device for a new one. The seller also has the right to appoint, at his own expense, an examination of the product, which will determine whether the breakdown was caused by the user or whether it is caused by a manufacturing defect. In the first case, the buyer must reimburse all costs for the examination. In the event of a defect due to the fault of the manufacturer, you can demand not only a refund, but also compensation for moral damages. Moral damage can only be claimed by a court decision.

Diagnosis of electric kettle malfunctions

To determine the reasons for the breakdown of the electric kettle, you only need a screwdriver needed to disassemble it, and an electrical measuring instrument - a multimeter or avometer. The diagnostic procedure for this device is quite simple. It consists of sequential ringing of the electric circuit of the kettle, starting from the plug connecting it to the electrical connector, and to the heating element.

Checking with a tester

If the electric kettle does not turn on, does not heat up, and the operation indicator light does not even light up, diagnosing the device, no matter how strange it may sound, should begin by checking the presence of voltage in the electrical outlet into which the device is connected. To do this, you can connect any other electrical household appliance that is known to work, or measure the voltage with a tester.

If there is voltage in the network, you need to diagnose the kettle itself. To do this you will need:

Check the serviceability of the appliance plug, connecting cord and contact group on the stand to which the electric kettle is connected. In the dialing mode, having finished one probe of the multimeter with the pin of the plug, with the second probe we alternately touch the contacts on the base connector. As a rule, there are three of them, and they correspond to two current-carrying conductors and a grounding contact connected to the device body. On the stand they can be located in the middle in the form of circles or on the side in the form of a three-fingered connector. At which contact the device signal sounds corresponds to the pin of the plug, which indicates the integrity of this cable core and contact groups. We repeat a similar operation for the second pin on the plug and the ground contact. If the ringing occurs along all three lines, it means that the base is working and can be put aside and begin diagnosing the kettle.
Since the fault lies in the electrical appliance itself, you need to remove its bottom cover. To do this, you will need to unscrew three screws (sometimes there are more - 4 or 6).
The next step is to ring the power connector terminal block at the base of the kettle. Usually it is combined with a thermostat and mounted on thermal paste. Before unscrewing it, you should disconnect the cable that goes with it. The left and right contacts of the block, when they are closed to the corresponding elements of the device connector, must ring, respectively, each on its own ring - internal or external. If this does not happen, you need to disassemble the block by removing the bottom plate of the thermostat and clean the contacts with sandpaper or a file, removing carbon deposits and oxidation from them. Along the way, you need to check the availability of contact
After cleaning the contacts, the block must be reassembled and ringed again. If the defect is eliminated, screw it into place.
Next, the functionality of the kettle's power button is checked. To do this, touch one probe of the multimeter to the contact of the wire going to the button, and with the second, touch the wire coming from the button to the heating element. When the switch is in the off position, there should be no reaction, and when the button is turned on, the device will give a sound signal, symbolizing that there is a circuit, which means the button is working. Otherwise, you need to replace it or try to repair it.
At the last stage of diagnostics, the serviceability of the heating element is checked. To do this, you need to ring the output contacts of the spiral, to which the wires from the central connector of the stand and from the button are connected. If the ringing occurs, it means that the spiral is not broken. By completing one of the leads of the heating element with its body, you can check whether the broken spiral is shorted to the body of the heating element. If the device gives a signal, a breakdown occurs on the housing, and the heating element is considered faulty.

Video: Diagnostics of an electric kettle with a multimeter

Diagnostics of a kettle with a thermostat

The presence of additional structural elements in electric kettles with a thermostat, compared to conventional devices that can only boil water, somewhat complicates the diagnosis of devices that are more saturated with details. But difficulty here can only arise when determining the health of the electronic board and memory unit. However, it is quite simple to determine that the cause of the kettle breakdown lies precisely in the thermostat.

When diagnosing kettles that heat water to a certain temperature, there are two possible options for placing the control panel:

in a teapot stand

on the electrical appliance itself (usually on its handle).

Typically, electric kettles with adjustable heating temperatures have not three contacts in the connector of the base-device connection, but five. Two more contacts for the thermistor are added to the power circuit for the heating element (two cable cores) and the grounding contact.

The ringing of a kettle with a thermostat is carried out in the same sequence as for a conventional electric kettle:

First of all, you need to determine which of the contacts on the device’s stand correspond to grounding and the two wires of the power cable. To do this, in the dialing mode, having finished one multimeter probe with a pin on the plug, with the second we touch the contacts on the stand connector one by one. We repeat a similar operation for the second cable core and grounding.
The remaining two contact rings included in the thermistor circuit must be checked for resistance. The device should show a certain resistance of approximately 100 kOhm. With other readings (1 or infinity), we can conclude that there is a malfunction in the thermostat circuit.
If everything is in order with the stand, you need to ring the kettle itself, as was already described earlier. When ringing individual elements of the circuit (power button, heating element, terminal block, with which the thermostat is usually combined), you must first disconnect the electronic part of the thermostat and temperature sensors.

Checking the heating element coil

Knowing the power for which an electric kettle is designed, you can easily calculate what resistance the spiral of its heating element should have. To do this, you should first calculate the current strength, which can be found by dividing the power in watts by the network voltage (220 V). Next, according to Ohm's law, well known to everyone from the school physics curriculum, to find the resistance, we divide the voltage in the network by the current. For example, for an electrical appliance with a heating element power of 2000 W, the current will be 2000 W / 220 V = 9.09 A, and the resistance of the nichrome spiral will be 220 V / 9.09 A = 24.20 Ohm.

The calculated resistance of the heating element spiral should not differ significantly from the actual one. To measure it, you need to remove the bottom cover of the kettle and measure it with a multimeter, setting it to resistance measurement mode.

How to fix an electric kettle with your own hands

The fairly simple design of electric kettles allows you to fix many of their malfunctions yourself, without contacting service workshops. But you can start repairing it yourself only if the warranty period for the electrical device has already expired. Let's look at some of the most common problems that can be easily solved if you have a simple tool at home and, without fail, an electrical measuring device.

If the kettle begins to leak, you must first of all identify the place where its seal is broken. It could be:

leakage along the gasket installed at the junction of the disk heating element with the inner walls of the housing;
water leakage in the place where the open-type heating element is attached;
flow along the glass of the level gauge, which shows to what level the water in the kettle is filled.
presence of a crack in the body of the electric kettle.

In the first case, the cause of depressurization of the flask may be a leaky gasket, or scale getting under the gasket. For any of these options you must:

Remove the bottom lid of the kettle.
Disconnect the top cover, which is usually held on by latches and can be easily removed.
Remove the heating element along with the gasket by pushing it out by hand.
After removing the rubber gasket from the disk heating element, thoroughly rinse the kettle itself, its heating element and the sealing ring. If the latter has abrasions, tears or excessive wear, the gasket must be replaced with a new one.
It is good to dry the heating element with all the parts attached to it with a hairdryer.
Reassemble in the reverse order, and after filling the kettle with water, place it on a dry cloth for 15 - 20 minutes. If leaks no longer appear, we can assume that the defect has been eliminated.

This process can be seen more clearly in the following video.

Video: Fixing leaks in an electric kettle with a disk heating element

If an electric kettle with a heating element in the form of an open spiral has a leak at the place where the heating element is attached, you must:

Remove the bottom cover of the electrical device housing, as well as the cover on its handle to provide access to the heating element mounting nuts.
If the fastener is loose, you need to tighten it and check if the problem is resolved.
If the tightness is not restored by tightening the fasteners, you need to dismantle the top cover of the kettle and, unscrewing the fastening screws, remove the spiral along with the gasket.
Thoroughly clean the surface of the heating element adjacent to the gasket and the sealing ring itself from scale. If necessary, replace the gasket.

How to disassemble a kettle with an open spiral heater and remove the heating element along with the gasket can be seen in detail in the following video.

Video: How to remove a spiral heating element with a gasket from an electric kettle

Leakage of the kettle along the glass of the level gauge may be the result of wear of the silicone gaskets or the appearance of microcracks in the plexiglass itself. And if the problem with the gaskets is solved quite simply (by replacing them), then to get rid of the cracks you will have to resort to using glue.

For gluing plexiglass (or plexiglass), professional adhesive Acrifix 116 or 117, vinegar essence, moment glue “Moment”, as well as adhesive compositions Cosmofen or Colakril can be used.

If there are cracks in the body, it is better to purchase a new kettle, since any glue that you try will be in contact with water, which is undesirable for health. The process of eliminating a leak on the glass of the level gauge can be seen in the following video.

Video: Eliminating leakage of a kettle on the glass of a level gauge

The reason that the electric kettle does not turn off when boiling may be:

unclosed or loosely closed top cover;
clogging of the hole for supplying steam to the bimetallic plate of the thermostat;
faulty button or thermostat.

After checking whether the lid is tightly closed, use a toothpick to clean the steam outlet hole, which is located under the lid at the junction of the handle and the body. If the problem is not resolved, you need to remove the bottom cover of the kettle, and then proceed according to the following algorithm:

Remove the bottom cover of the electric kettle body and the cover on its handle. A bimetallic plate, which should, when arched, turn off the button or electricity access to it, is available both on the button and under the terminal box of the kettle, where the thermostat is usually located.
Make sure that the contacts are intact and that they can open under the action of the bimetallic strip. If the contacts are stuck to each other, or the pin that should open them has melted, you need to restore the functionality of this system, and if it is impossible to eliminate the breakdown, replace the problematic part - a button or thermostat.
Reassemble the device in reverse order and check if this problem is resolved.

Another problem that may arise when using electric kettles is when the water has not yet boiled, but the device is already turned off. This defect can occur due to scale formed on the heating element, which prevents the transfer of heat to the water and heats the coil itself. If the coil overheats, the thermal fuse or thermostat at the base of the kettle is triggered. In this case, you need to descale the kettle, for which you can use:

special household chemicals “Antinakipin” or Major Domus;
Coca-Cola, which contains phosphoric acid;
citric acid at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 500 ml of water;
baking soda 3 - 4 tbsp. spoons per 1 liter. water.

These solutions need to be boiled in a kettle and held for 15 - 20 minutes, after which boil clean water in it 3 - 4 times for rinsing.

If there is no scale on the heating element, you need to check the thermostat contact. It may be too close to the bimetal pusher and just needs to be bent back a little, as demonstrated in the following video.

Video: What to do if the kettle turns off without boiling

There are times when the kettle does not turn on, this means that there is a break in its electrical circuit somewhere. It may be associated with burning and oxidation of contacts. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to find the location of the rupture, as was already described earlier about fault diagnosis.

If the electric kettle does not heat water, but its light is on, this may indicate a break in the nichrome spiral of the heating element or burnout of its leads. In the first case, the heating element will need to be replaced, and in the second, the contacts will need to be cleaned.

A situation may arise when the electric kettle button does not lock. The cause of such a breakdown is a slipped or burst spring. To eliminate the defect you must:

Remove the lid from the handle by unscrewing the screws under the top lid of the kettle and prying it with a screwdriver to release its latches from the grooves.
Remove the button by disconnecting the wires from it and unscrewing the screw.
After disassembling the button, replace the spring that came off.
If the spring is broken, the easiest way is to replace the button with a new one, because it is unlikely that you will be able to find a similar spare part.
Reassemble the kettle in reverse order.

Replacing the disc heater

Electric kettles with a disk heater are especially vulnerable to the formation of rust, which corrodes the metal, damaging their surface and compromising the seal of the electrical appliance. With such a defect, the device is not operational. The only way out is to replace the disk, which requires:

Remove the bottom of the kettle by unscrewing the screws (in some models it is also held in place by latches).
Remove the top cover.
Putting your hand into the kettle, squeeze out the heating element along with the silicone gasket.
Disconnect all components and parts installed on it from the disk.
Connect the terminal block, thermostat and other elements to the new heating element and assemble the kettle in the reverse order.

How to replace the spiral

To check the serviceability of a spiral heating element, you need to measure its resistance. If the multimeter shows one or infinity, the heating element needs to be replaced. To do this you need:

Remove the bottom, lid of the kettle and the cover on the handle to get to the screws securing the heating element.
Disconnect the supply wires from the spiral terminals.
Unscrew the three screws securing the heating element and remove it from the kettle.
Place a silicone gasket on the new heating element (can be removed from a burnt-out coil if it is not scuffed or damaged) and, installing it in the mounting hole, tighten it with screws.
Reassemble the device in reverse order.

The process of replacing the spiral is clearly shown in the following video.

Video: Replacing the spiral heating element of an electric kettle

How to connect an electric kettle directly

Connecting the electric kettle directly is carried out as a temporary measure if the power button fails. If it cannot be repaired, and at the moment there is nothing to replace it with, you just need to disconnect the wiring that goes to the button and connect them together with a twist. When connected directly, the device will no longer turn off automatically, and you need to ensure that it is turned off so that the heating element does not burn out.

An electric kettle today is available to people with different incomes, who can simply buy a new device if the old one breaks down. But if this is not possible at the moment, you can easily fix it yourself without spending money on paying for the services of a repairman.