How to make a table for a circular saw. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw - according to our drawings and instructions, anyone can do it How to make a shaft for a circular saw from a pipe

In the household, a circular saw always comes in handy. Major repairs are a costly and troublesome task. Not everyone can afford to buy expensive tools for processing wooden materials. A DIY circular saw allows you to carry out safe work and speed up the construction process. A saw made by yourself has a number of advantages, such as reliability, efficiency and sharpening for immediate needs.

A circular saw

Purpose of a circular saw

Before you begin assembling the machine, you need to clearly define its purpose. For preparing firewood and simply cutting large pieces of wood, a firmly fixed table with a slot for a saw is sufficient. This type is common in villages and rural areas; the machines are not safe and have increased functionality.

For a more varied range of carpentry jobs, you will need a better option. The circular machine must be equipped with a coordinate table with special guides, this allows you to change the degree. The manufacture of small-sized products requires increased safety. Speed ​​control is installed and discs can be changed.

Design features of a circular machine

Circulars of any fixed type consist of main parts.

  1. Table for connecting mechanisms. An assembly combined with higher power engines is preferable to a table made entirely of metal. The surface of the table must be made level with your own hands, for a higher quality product at the end.
  2. The engine in most cases is used from what is in stock. Electric motors designed for long-term operation from the network will be preferable to commutator drives.
  3. The shaft is the most critical component of the circular. Finished products are used most often; in other cases, the assembly is made on a lathe. It is important to calculate the mounting holes and eliminate runout.

A table for a DIY table saw can be used as a cutting machine. The cut cannot reach more than 8 cm, so larger jobs will require the use of a larger machine.

Stationary machine with your own hands

To perform everyday or one-time tasks, a hand-made circular saw is quite suitable. Small-volume sawing work does not imply heavy loads on the disk drive. The compact tool has small dimensions, which makes it possible to put it away after finishing work in a certain place. An experienced carpenter will need to make a large stationary type circular saw.

Making a stationary circular saw with your own hands will require precision and literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in manufacturing. It is worthwhile to treat every component of the unit competently and carefully, because the circular machine is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.

Circulation table

Saw blade

The design of a DIY circular saw must contain a saw blade. The working surface of the disk is set to one third of the total diameter. For example, with a diameter of 210 mm, the disk should protrude 70 mm from the table. Parts with greater thickness will require a powerful motor, from 1 kW. A miniature circular saw will not cope with such tasks.

The splitting knife installed on some models serves to prevent short circuits and jamming during operation. It is located at the back a few millimeters from the teeth of the saw blade. The device may also be needed when making a circular saw with your own hands.

Adjustable side support

Any type of work will require a stop. The side support is made of a block of dense wood. In other cases, it is possible to make it from a metal corner. The arrangement should be slightly longer than the table structure. The stop is installed using bolts. The template is installed between the table and the cutter for precise installation and better settings.

Shaft

Homemade shaft

The most important part of the design is the shaft mounted on the circular saw. A self-made shaft for a circular saw can damage the structure and cause injury. The reason for this is runout, which cannot be avoided when making a shaft using artisanal methods. The manufacture of the shaft should be entrusted to a specialist with good turning equipment. You should remember that there is a cutter that needs a seat. The holes must be symmetrically machined and machined.

Finished shafts are sold in specialized markets. Preference should be given to parts with a self-aligning bearing. Otherwise, the conventional mechanism may soon render the circular machine unusable.

Broadcast

There are several types of gears that can be used in the design of a DIY circular saw:

  • V-belt transmission;
  • mechanism consisting of gears.

The preferred option is to use a belt drive. Using a mechanism with gears can lead to jamming if a foreign body enters and injury to the worker. When choosing the pulley diameter, the maximum number of revolutions of the saw blade is taken into account.

Motor

In most cases, homemade machines are equipped with an engine from an old washing machine. The main features are increased service life and efficiency. The speed of such engines is not high, which makes working on a circular saw assembled with your own hands safer, longer, and has a positive effect on the result. The use of a special three-phase motor implies the presence of a 380 Volt network. If one is not available, you will have to use a starting and running capacitor, which leads to additional costs.

Circular saw from a grinder or circular saw

When working with small workpieces, it is enough to get by with a small circular saw. A circular saw is made with your own hands from available power tools; you will need a grinder or a circular saw.

There are many options for stationary use of improvised tools. It is enough to secure the device from the bottom of the table to access the material to the disk. The height is adjustable depending on the workpiece, but for safety reasons should not exceed one third of the size of the saw blade. This installation option is not available for the switch; it is necessary to modify the device for convenient operation.

A fairly common option is to use a frame on guides. The simple design allows you to use the tool to work at any angle. It consists of two parallel metal pipes or angles on which the saw is mounted.

A hand-made circular saw makes the work you do faster and more economical. Such a device will be needed during major repairs and other actions related to cutting wood. The simplicity of the design, the possibility of using scrap materials, makes the cost almost zero, and making it yourself allows you to add the necessary functionality for the job.

You may also be interested in the following articles:

How to make wood cross-cutting machines with your own hands DIY disc sawmill

A circular saw is a device that is used mainly in industry, but you can find people using it in private home settings. Some people try to make it themselves. The most important part here is the shaft. Most often, the shaft for the circular is made to order. To do this, you need to contact only a highly qualified turner. Fortunately, it’s not difficult to find something like this today. However, such work will be quite expensive. There are alternative methods to solve this problem. The easiest way is to create a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands. Of course, this requires a lathe.

It is even possible that it will be numerically controlled. You will have to acquire some additional tools. You can't do without materials here.

Tools and materials

In order to make a circular saw shaft with your own hands, you need to provide the following tools and materials:

  1. Cutters for various purposes. Here you will need not only a standard tool, but also a groove cutter.
  2. A cylindrical shaft of appropriate dimensions, which will be made of 45 steel.
  3. Measuring tool. In this case, a clear caliper may be needed. Only with its help can you take the most accurate measurements in order to get the perfect part at the end.

Basically, this is enough to make a shaft for a circular saw. In some cases, additional measuring tools may be needed.

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Important details

In the case of the shaft, it is worth using high-quality steel. We are talking about a material that has the numbers 45 in its name, of course. We are talking about steel. In your work, you must be guided by the corresponding GOST, which describes the location of the shafts and seating surfaces. On the saw blade mounting side, the clamping inner sleeve, bearings and the saw blade itself sit on one surface.

As a result of the fact that there are many parts, each of them will have its own fitting size, which is indicated in the drawing. It must be made first in accordance with the dimensions that this tool has. You will have to focus on them when creating the circular shaft. All tolerances and fits must be indicated on the drawing. A caliper is used for accurate measurements. You can also prepare gauges with appropriate sizes in advance. In private home conditions, it is quite difficult to find them, so often everything is limited only to a caliper.

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Manufacturing process

So, a person has all the necessary tools, a shaft with a certain diameter, as well as a drawing. First you need to fix the part in the lathe. Regardless of its type, double-sided fastening is used. Any lathe has a spindle. The shaft is secured here using special clamps. On the other side is the tailstock. She presses the material from behind. Now you can proceed to rough processing.

For these purposes, a flow cutter is used. For roughing, rough removal is used, so there are no specific requirements for the tool. The most important thing is that it is sharpened. Otherwise, burrs may form on the workpiece, and this is unacceptable. The machine is simply started and processing is carried out according to the largest diameter.

You need to leave a small allowance.

It will be needed for finishing with a cutter.

Now you can move on to processing other surfaces. Since there are quite a lot of seats, each of them will be processed in accordance with the drawing. It is worth working at high speeds so that the surface is as high quality and smooth as possible.

Once roughing is completed, you can move on to finishing turning. An appropriate cutter is also used for these purposes. All allowances that remained previously will have to be removed. Here you should definitely focus on the drawing dimensions. They are processed. It is advisable to check the size after each finishing pass to ensure that the final product is truly correct.

Next comes the groove cutter. It is used for turning special grooves for keys. There will be several of them here. They will allow you to attach a wide variety of parts to the shaft. It is necessary to cut in accordance with the dimensions shown in the drawing. After the work is completed, you can once again check all available dimensions.

If necessary, you can remove the shaft and then try to fit the bearing and other parts that will be used onto it. If everything is fastened normally, then we can safely state that the work was carried out correctly, and, therefore, the circular shaft is ready for use. Of course, you can use additional sandpaper to get a cleaner surface.

To process the workpiece with its help, the latter is fixed again in its position. Now take a sheet of sandpaper and run it along the shaft. In this case, the clamped workpiece should rotate. You should use non-coarse sandpaper to get a mirror shine, after which the shaft can be removed from the machine. It is completely ready for installation on a circular machine. Of course, you will have to do a number of manipulations with other blanks so that they all fit perfectly on it.

In fact, the work is not difficult, but it is still better to turn to professionals, especially since not every person has a lathe at his disposal. It is better to carry out the work on a machine with numerical control, as this makes it much easier.

Thus, the work is completed, which means we can sum up some of its results. Now everyone knows how. In fact, everything that was described above consists of processing a simple shaft.

In some cases, it can be obtained from a rod of the appropriate diameter. All remnants of the workpiece are subsequently removed. They can simply be sawed off using a hacksaw. You can also use another tool. For example, a grinder with an appropriate circle that is capable of cutting metal is ideal for these purposes. It all depends on what a person has available in his workshop.

Contents:

Circular-type machines belong to the class of specialized processing mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.

This example of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and country house.

When assessing the possibilities of purchasing ready-made equipment, you will encounter a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.

The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular saw with your own hands, using materials and equipment that are commercially available.

Note! In order to save money, in small-sized models of machines, an autonomous circular saw, which is rigidly mounted on the bed, is most often used as a cutting tool.

Using a homemade machine, you can saw boards, plane slabs, and also make bars of the desired cross-section.

If desired, you can significantly expand the functionality of your product by providing it with the ability to process wood using an electric planer.

Design requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all the structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular saw may consist of the following functional units:

  • bed, which serves as the basis of the entire product;
  • tabletops with an industrial prototype of a hand-held circular saw installed on it;
  • remote control panel for turning on and off the actuator (circular saw).

Small-sized tabletop circular saw

The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden frame. For capital equipment manufactured on the basis of metal profiles (angles), its diagram has a slightly different form. Such a product must include the following elements:

  • a base made of steel frames and brackets on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
  • a table top with slots for the processing blade, installed on top of a metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
  • a set of special drive electrical equipment located in the lower part of the frame and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of frame is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and load-bearing structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a homemade machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.

Stationary circular saw

In addition, before preparing a sketch of the future product, the technical characteristics of the equipment used should be taken into account, such as:

  • The depth of cut, which specifies the permissible thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This figure for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the frame that allows you to change the position of the disk in height.

  • Before manufacturing a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the electric motor rotor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes with which you will most often have to deal. For simple cutting of wood pieces, this figure can be relatively low, but to obtain a perfectly smooth (“clean”) cut you will need a higher rotation speed.

Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a rotation speed not exceeding 4500 rpm. At low engine speeds, the frame can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibrations of the mechanism.

  • When drawing up a sketch, ergonomic requirements should also be taken into account, implying ease of control of the operation of the equipment, as well as safe handling. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, restricting access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical security of the drive or individual controls.

After all possible requirements for the future machine have been taken into account, you can begin to assemble it directly.

Bed based on metal profiles (corners)

It is most convenient to make the upper part of the metal frame in the form of a rectangular frame 600 by 400 mm, welded from 25 mm corners. Pipe blanks 220 mm long are welded to the four corners of this structure (recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).

The bed must ensure rigidity of the machine structure

Two longitudinal angles are fixed to the frame using bolts, used to secure the shaft in the bearing race.

The distance between the angles is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are secured to them with special clamps.

In order to give it greater stability, the lower part of the frame frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.

A closed type bearing is used to secure the working shaft.

Two jumpers made of the same material are welded across the frame, used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform intended for mounting launch equipment.

Bearings are attached to the frame using special clamps

At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).

Closer to their edge, special clamps (wings) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.

The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:

  • first, bearings No. 202 are taken and driven forcefully onto the working shaft;
  • after that, a pulley, previously turned on a lathe and having an internal groove diameter of 50 mm, is fixed on the same shaft with tension;
  • then at the end of the shaft a thread is cut for the bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for a more reliable fixation, paronite and metal washers can be placed under the bolt);
  • upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to installing a drive manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW (1500 rpm). A pulley with an internal groove size of approximately 80 mm is mounted on the shaft of such an engine;
  • at the next stage of assembling the frame, the two finished halves of the frame are connected together (in this case, pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
  • At the end of the work, the belt is tensioned on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position using special “wing” clamps.

Machine on a wooden frame

The simplest and most affordable way to make a machine bed involves using ordinary boards or thick plywood for this purpose. In this design option, the executive unit is placed directly under the table (tabletop), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.

The wooden frame is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a frame with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for attaching a hand-held circular saw to it. The length of a tabletop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.

Note! The height of the structure can be adjusted if desired, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the tabletop can be increased to the required size. In this case, you will have to worry about installing additional support legs.

The most convenient material for making countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, other materials can be selected for these purposes (plexiglass or fiberglass slabs, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable, as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.

To make a machine on a wooden base, you will need the following materials:

  • sheet metal preparation;
  • standard sheet of thick plywood;
  • a pair of beams with a cross section of 50×50 mm;
  • thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
  • steel corner required to increase the rigidity of the guides;
  • a circular saw;
  • two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

  • classic screwdriver and electric drill;
  • a simple wood hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
  • portable milling cutter for wood processing.

If you don’t have such a milling machine, you can use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine on their farm.

Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from used kitchen tables. However, such a design will not be durable, since the source material was used for a long time in a damp room. That is why it would be wiser to manufacture all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Making a countertop

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, you can process its edges using a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the tabletop is carefully processed (rubbed) with medium-grain sandpaper.

Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. To make measurements easier, the blade is simply removed from the saw, after which you can easily determine the dimensions of the seat.

For ease of marking the tabletop, the saw blade is removed

Upon completion of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of its attachment points is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are specified).

The finished plywood table top is covered with a steel sheet attached to it using self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings to the working surface, allowing the position of the wood piece to be adjusted during its processing.

Frame assembly

Both transverse and longitudinal frame beams, used as stiffening ribs, are also mounted on the lower plane of the tabletop. A total of four such strips will be required:

Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the tabletop by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).

Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to mark the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and crossbars, at which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.

When marking points, the outermost one is selected at a distance of approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the block (in this case, the step between them should be about 23-25 ​​cm).

Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and table top). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the tabletop are pre-coated with wood glue.

After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed using clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried.

Attaching the support legs

The table legs are made from bars of a suitable cross-section (most often the same 50x50 mm blanks are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, i.e. individually.

This should take into account the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular saw when the tabletop is at hip level. Before their final installation, the shape of the legs is modified so that they taper towards the supporting part (the area of ​​contact with the frame base must exceed the area of ​​support on the floor).

To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used, which are pressed in such a way as to provide additional “strut” for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with their heads facing outward.

Electrical diagram

In the capital version of the circular saw design, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the electrical network according to a triangle diagram.

Wiring diagram for an asynchronous motor of a circular machine

To control the operation and ensure automatic starting of the electric motor, the circuit provides a magnetic starter built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.

To build a control circuit for a machine on a wooden frame (an option involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and securing them to one of the legs of the tabletop

You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.

For greater convenience, the hand-held circular saw can be mounted on a table. This design will help you process and saw wooden parts quickly and without problems.

Working with a circular saw mounted on a special table greatly simplifies the cutting process and is safe when using special tools.

In this article we will tell you how to make a hand-held circular saw with your own hands.

Circular saw table design

The table base for a circular saw can be wooden or metal.

The tabletop is made of metal or sheet wood materials. A hole is made in it for a circular saw blade.

Supports ride along guides in the tabletop, which move timber and any other sawing material.

First of all, the table should be comfortable, stable (not wobble!), the surface of the tabletop should be flat. These factors will help a person avoid injury during work.

The hole in the base is cut for a specific brand of saw

Before you start cutting the material and assembling the circular table, you need to calculate its dimensions and make a drawing.

The hole in the base must correspond to the dimensions of the circular saw platform. For each brand of saw this will be a specific size.

The slab installed on the tabletop should not overhang the table to one side - the base must be resistant to external mechanical loads.

The dimensions of the tabletop must correspond to the flow.

For some, a folding table, a small table with a removable circular saw, is enough. People who have a spacious workshop need a full-fledged table for a circular saw or even a circular saw.

Note: If you plan to leave materials on the table while working, then the area of ​​the tabletop should be at least a square meter. The optimal size for such a table is 120 x 120 cm.


Materials from which you can make a table for cutting wood:
  • solid wood;
  • Chipboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood;
  • metal (steel or aluminum).

Plastic is not suitable as a material for making a saw table.

Prior to final assembly, all wooden parts of the table should be protected from moisture and rot.

To make a saw table with your own hands, we will need the following materials:

  • Laminated chipboard or plywood 21 mm thick;
  • timber for the table frame (you can use a 50 x 150 mm edged board 3 meters long - 5 pcs.);
  • wooden dowels 10 mm – 12 pcs.;
  • wood glue;
  • metal fastenings for drawers and legs – 4 pcs.;
  • metal corners – 10 pcs.;
  • self-tapping screws

Tools required for work:

  • pencil, marker, tape measure, meter;
  • jigsaw;
  • manual ;
  • Sander;
  • medium and fine grit sandpaper;
  • plane;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver

Step 1. First, use a plane to trim all sides of the beam. We assemble the table frame from the timber: in each side of the tabletop we drill two 5 mm holes for dowels for each drawer and one hole for each table leg.

Step 2. You need to make two holes (5 mm) in the drawers, and one (5 mm) in the legs.

Step 3. We install the dowels into the tabletop, having previously lubricated them with wood glue. Tsars and legs are installed on top.

If you have clamps with ties, you can secure the table with them. After the glue has completely dried, the drawers are fastened to the legs and to each other with special metal fasteners for tables and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Note: the table will be stronger and more stable if you use metal corners for additional fastening of the tabletop: two on the short side and three on the long side.


Step 4. Now you need to secure the circular saw to the inside of the tabletop. There can be two options: fasten the saw platform with M4 bolts or fasten the platform using bars with self-tapping screws. The first option is faster and more reliable. The second option does not require drilling holes in the metal pad for bolts.


Step 5. You can secure the saw with bolts or bars with self-tapping screws. We will fasten with blocks, so we make a cut in small blocks the width of the saw platform. Using blocks with self-tapping screws on both sides, we fasten the circular saw to the tabletop.


Step 6. When the saw is installed, take another larger block and screw it to the tabletop with self-tapping screws (directly to the previously marked points along which the saw platform was aligned exactly). This block is necessary so that later, when removing the saw from the table, you can quickly return it to its place without resorting to markings.

Step 7 Place the circular saw blade in place and saw through the tabletop to create a longitudinal hole. Turn the tabletop over.




Step 8 We make a parallel stop. To do this, we saw off two strips of plywood with a length equal to the width of the table and a width of about 8–10 cm. We round the corners using a protractor and a pencil.


Step 9 We sand both strips and fasten them using self-tapping screws at an angle. We screw a metal corner inside.


Step 10 When constantly working with a table for a circular saw and the need to secure the stop on the tabletop, a guide is fixed perpendicular to the disk. The roller or the second part of the guide is attached to the bottom of the fence so that the fence can move up / away from the circular saw blade.


Workplace safety

In order to avoid injury during work, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the saw table, its stability, and strength.

Before each use of the circular saw, check that it is securely in place.

Holding the cut material with your hands is strictly prohibited! This can lead to injury to your fingers or the wood to bounce into your face when hit by knots or uneven surfaces.

Also, to avoid eye injury, be sure to wear safety glasses while working.
Do not neglect these simple rules, take care of your own health.

For more information on how to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, see the following video:

It is not difficult to assemble a circular saw with your own hands. Homemade devices are often found in the workshops of people who have the necessary skills to work with tools.

All actions during manufacturing must be performed carefully, observing safety regulations.

Drawings of the device will make the process of assembling a circular saw with your own hands more understandable.

Assembly order

A homemade circular saw can be easily assembled with your own hands if you have an unnecessary grinder in your home workshop.

To complete the assembly of the device, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • aluminum corner;
  • nuts;
  • metal rod or pipe;
  • metal sheet;
  • sliding stop (needs to be assembled);
  • axial handle (needs to be made).

First of all, a stop with the necessary holes is constructed. It is constructed using short parts of a metal angle. The corner trims will be located on both sides of the toothed disk.

For them, it is necessary to make recesses on the sides with a depth of 0.2 to 0.5 cm. To ensure that the lower edges of the corners do not come into contact with the element being cut, they should be smoothed.

The parts are secured at the back and front with transverse ligaments using nuts and bolts.

The assembly diagram of the stop is not complicated. A metal clamp is placed on the body, the tie of which is made from the bottom of the device.

Then a hole is prepared through which the product is secured with a clamp for rear fastening, which secures the stop for subsequent sliding.

In the gearbox of the device, holes with threads are drilled into which small parts will be attached.

At the beginning of work, the gearbox is disassembled to determine a suitable place where the recesses will be made.

Recesses are required for subsequent fastening of the axial handle. If you use the handle located on the side of an ordinary angle grinder, then making a hole will be quite difficult.

The next stage is making the handle. The part can be constructed using a rod or tube made of metal bent upward. Its ends will later be attached to the gearbox.

If the handle is made in the form of a horn, then its far end should be flattened and recesses made for the axle. A forward-facing part is inserted into the recesses located in the gearbox. The edges of the part are pressed.

Using washers under the front part of the stop, the gap parameters are equalized along the entire length of the circular saw.

If you use a 0.6 cm rod, you will need thin washers. A thread is applied to the back of the rod.

The part is then placed into the recess on the handle. The device is now ready for use.

When operating a circular saw, you must follow safety rules, especially you should not drink alcoholic beverages, as their consumption leads to impaired coordination.

Table saw assembly

Assembling a circular saw with your own hands at home is not a very difficult job; you just need to prepare all the necessary parts and tools, select the design and follow the drawings and instructions exactly.

A table circular saw is easily assembled from a regular one. The finished device will have compact dimensions.

To do this work, you need to assemble a frame from a thin tube or rod 18 - 20 mm, made of metal, to which the lever is attached.

The part of the structure located below must be bent in the direction of the cut. This element is attached to the table with self-tapping screws.

The stand for the device must be stable. Rocking the saw while working can be very dangerous because any careless movement can result in the loss of fingers or an arm.

It is best to make your table out of metal, securing its supports to the floor.

On the crossbar you need to place a lever made of a tube in the shape of the letter “T”. The lever should turn freely.

The part is cut across into several sections. After completing the installation of the structure, all elements are connected using clamps.

A homemade mini circular saw is pulled and fixed with clamps to the vertical outer part with your own hands.

The assembled circular saw can be used in the home workshop as a cutting tool. Before starting work, insert a cutting wheel into the grinder.

To process thick boards, you need to use a full-fledged machine. The carriage is used to trim the elements. It is assembled from several beams attached to the base and performing a guiding function.

Having understood how to assemble the device, you need to select the materials and tools suitable for the job. At a minimum, you will need a working grinder and various consumables.

But to assemble the device yourself, you need special skills. If you do not have the necessary dexterity, then it is better to purchase a circular electric saw, in the correct, reliable and safe operation of which you can be absolutely sure.

The described method allows you to assemble a small circular saw that can be used in a home workshop or your own shed.

How to assemble a stationary device?

Having learned how to make a circular saw, we begin to assemble the device. A stationary saw differs from a mini tool only in the size of the saw blade.

The statina must have a base of sufficient width without curvature, with a cutout for a saw. More often, the base is made using plexiglass, plywood, chipboard and ordinary sheet metal.

The parameters of the closing surface are determined taking into account the pressure exerted on the statin. The power cord for the circular saw is also attached to the base.

The statin cover must be freely removable, since access to the machine may be required at any time.

The table for the structure will need to be made independently.

It is covered with a tin or steel sheet, since the wood passing over plastic and wood during work gradually forms grooves on the coating. Because of the holes and indentations, it will be very difficult to make a quality cut.

If the plank is planned to be sliding, then it is necessary that the table surface have absolutely parallel opposite edges.

For smooth sliding along the edges without changing the desired angle, slides are made using an aluminum corner.

The cutting disc should protrude no more than a third of its diameter above the table surface, otherwise the tool will be dangerous to life.

But even a minimal protrusion of the cutting element can cause serious injuries if used incorrectly.

Before starting work on assembling a circular saw, you should compare the power of the existing electric motor with the required one. Parts with a thickness of more than 150 mm will be quite difficult to saw with a homemade machine.

The stop, which can be adjusted during operation, is made from a fragment of a metal corner 7-8 cm. It should be 40 mm longer than the tabletop.

Then a stop is placed on the surface of the table, which is secured with bolts. The emphasis is set according to special measurements previously established between the working part of the device and it.

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