Lifting and attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling is not easy, even if you have experience and work with an assistant. As a rule, all kinds of devices are used, for example, mops to support the sheet from below, or something similar. It's very difficult to do this job on your own. The conversation will be about a device with which it is possible to lift the drywall sheet and fix it to the ceiling.

One of the possible design options for lifting drywall sheets (GKL) and the principle of its operation is shown in rice. a-g. It is arranged quite simply - from ordinary building goats, to the legs of which two high racks are rigidly attached. On the upper part of these racks, a light platform is pivotally fixed with an emphasis in its lower part, on which a sheet of drywall is laid. This stage of preparation for starting work is shown in rice. a. The process of lifting a sheet of drywall laid on a lifting turntable is shown in rice. god

Scheme and principle of operation devices for lifting and mounting gypsum boards on the ceiling: a - the initial position of the device - installing the sheet on a lifting and turning platform; b - the first stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the first folding stand); c - the second stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the second folding stand); d - the final stage of lifting - the platform is fixed in the working position.

A device with a lifting and turning platform for mounting GKL on the ceiling.

A distinctive feature of this design is that it provides for the possibility of lifting in several stages, which is very important for safe work alone. To do this, two folding stands of different heights are freely suspended from below to the platform, which, during the ascent, under the action of their weight, fall and alternately occupy a vertical position - first, a shorter one, and then, at the second stage of the ascent, a longer one. The platform, which is in a vertical position, can be temporarily supported by the platform in order to safely change the grip of both hands and continue lifting in a more comfortable position.

The first stage of lifting - the platform is fixed on the first folding stand.

Both intermediate stops are shown in fig. b and c. The height of the first and second stands should be chosen based on the following considerations. It is advisable to make the first stop when the lower end of the platform is at the level of the worker's belt or slightly higher. As a rule, it is in this position that it is convenient to change the grip of both hands in order to continue lifting. The second stop should be provided when the platform is at shoulder or head level. It is more convenient to raise the platform higher (up to the ceiling) without climbing up the ladder, but by holding the second, longer stand with both hands, standing on the floor. This option is more convenient and safer.

At the final stage, it is more convenient to lift the platform not with the help of a ladder, but standing on the floor and holding the second, longer stand with both hands.

In the highest position, when the platform is raised to the ceiling, it is fixed with a pre-prepared and cut-off rail ( see fig. G). However, for reliability, it is better to additionally attach the free end of the platform with at least one self-tapping screw to the crate on the ceiling. Having fixed the platform, they install scaffolding and proceed to the main part of the work - fixing drywall sheets to the crate on the ceiling. To do this, the sheet is shifted so that it takes its place on the ceiling, it is temporarily pressed against the crate with wedges and fastened around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws. So one by one, all sheets of drywall are mounted, each time rearranging the device for lifting to a new place.

For reliability, it is better to additionally attach the free end of the platform with a self-tapping screw to the crate on the ceiling.

For ceiling sheathing of small rooms, for example, bathrooms, hallways or corridors, where non-standard sized gypsum boards are used, it is better to make a lifting and turning platform smaller so that it is more convenient to handle in cramped conditions. The main part of the device - goats with high racks - should be made universal. For this, any construction goats that are usually used for the construction of scaffolds, 0.6-0.8 m high and with a distance between the leg supports of 0.8-0.9 m, are suitable. Racks are best made from a standard U-shaped profile and a nested a wooden slat in it (to give greater rigidity). When attaching vertical racks, it is desirable to shift them from the longitudinal axis of the goats a little back so that they are located closer to the wall - by about 10-15 cm ( see fig. a). This is especially important when working in small spaces.

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Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on the ceiling

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How to decorate the ceiling with drywall with your own hands

So the installation of drywall on the ceiling. Lifting and fixing drywall sheets to the ceiling is not easy, even if you are working with a partner. As a rule, for this you have to use various devices, for example, racks in the form of a mop to support the sheet from below, or something else of that kind. But to cope with the work alone without special lifting devices is almost impossible. We are talking about a device with which you can lift the drywall sheet and fix it in a horizontal position, as close as possible to the ceiling.

One of the possible design options for lifting drywall sheets (GKL) and the principle of its operation is shown in fig. a-g. It is arranged quite simply - from ordinary building goats, to the legs of which two high racks are rigidly attached.

On the upper part of these racks, a light platform is pivotally fixed with an emphasis in its lower part, on which a sheet of drywall is laid. This stage of preparation for the start of work is shown in Fig. a. The process of lifting a sheet of drywall laid on a lifting and turning platform is shown in fig. god

A distinctive feature of this design is that it provides for the possibility of lifting in several stages, which is very important for safe work alone.

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For this, two folding stands of different heights are freely suspended from below to the platform, which, during lifting, under the action of their weight, fall and alternately occupy a vertical position - first, a shorter one, and then, at the second stage of lifting, a longer one. The platform, which is in a vertical position, can be temporarily supported by the platform to safely change the grip of both hands and continue lifting in a more comfortable position.

Fixture for installation of drywall on the ceiling by one person

Both intermediate stops are shown in Fig. b and c. The height of the first and second stands should be chosen based on the following considerations. It is advisable to make the first stop when the lower end of the platform is at the level of the worker's belt or slightly higher. As a rule, it is in this position that it is convenient to change the grip of both hands in order to continue lifting.

The second stop should be provided when the platform is at shoulder or head level. It is more convenient to raise the platform higher (up to the ceiling) without climbing up the ladder, but by holding the second, longer stand with both hands, standing on the floor. This type of lifting is more convenient and safer.

In the highest position, when the platform is raised to the ceiling, it is fixed with a pre-prepared and cut-off rail (see Fig. d).

However, for reliability, it is better to additionally attach the free end of the platform with at least one self-tapping screw to the crate on the ceiling. Having fixed the platform, they install scaffolding and proceed to the main part of the work - fixing drywall sheets to the crate on the ceiling.

To do this, the sheet is shifted so that it takes its place on the ceiling, it is temporarily pressed against the crate with wedges and fastened around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws. So alternately mount all sheets of drywall, each time rearranging the device for lifting to a new place.

For ceiling cladding of small rooms, for example, bathrooms, hallways or corridors, where non-standard gypsum boards are used, it is better to make a turntable of a smaller size so that it is more convenient to handle in cramped conditions.

The main part of the device - goats with high racks - should be made universal. For this, any construction trestles, which are usually used for the construction of scaffolds, with a height of 0.6-0.8 m and with a distance between the leg supports of 0.8-0.9 m, are suitable.

Racks are best made from a standard G1-shaped profile and a wooden lath embedded in it (to make it more rigid). When attaching vertical racks, it is desirable to shift them slightly back from the longitudinal axis of the goats so that they are located closer to the wall - by about 10-15 cm (see Fig. a). This is especially important when working in small spaces.

The height of the racks should not be made - under the ceiling, it is better to install small triangular brackets with a “shoulder of 10-15 cm” from below near the lifting and turning platform (see photo). This will greatly facilitate the constant movement of the lifting device during operation.

As for the turntable, it should be strived to be as light as possible, but at the same time strong and rigid.

Ideal for this metal U-shaped profile, which is used to install drywall. It is also desirable to insert a wooden lath inside the profile. The free opening of the platform should not be unnecessarily cluttered with longitudinal or transverse crossbars, scarves and other reinforcing elements. The rigidity of the platform should be ensured mainly by reliable dressing of the carrier rails in its corner joints, since any reinforcing elements blocking the free opening will interfere with screwing screws when attaching the gypsum board to the crate on the ceiling.

The device for lifting the GKL shown in the photo has been repeatedly tested in a variety of conditions and, despite its simplicity, has become an indispensable assistant, especially when you have to work alone.

And in those cases when it is possible to work together, the performance during the installation of plasterboard ceilings increases several times. In this case, the partner does not require any special skills. The process of fixing the plasterboard on the ceiling is also facilitated, since there is no need to additionally support the sheet from below.

Drywall on the ceiling: do-it-yourself installation

Photo on the left: Fixture with lifting and turning platform for mounting drywall sheets on the ceiling.

On right. To work in small areas where non-standard plasterboards are used for ceiling sheathing, the lifting and turning platform can be made smaller.

At the bottom: Scheme and principle of operation of the fixture for lifting and mounting drywall sheets on the ceiling: a - the initial position of the device - the installation of the sheet on the lifting and turning platform; b - the first stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the first folding stand); c - the second stage of lifting (the platform is fixed and rests on the second folding stand); d - the final stage of lifting - the platform is fixed in the working position.

1. The first stage of lifting - the platform is fixed on the first folding stand. 2. In order not to waste time, it is advisable to apply all the marking lines for screwing in screws on the sheet at the bottom, before installing it on the platform. 3. At the final stage, it is more convenient to lift the platform not with the help of a ladder, but standing on the floor and holding the second, longer stand with both hands. four . For reliability, it is better to attach the free end of the platform with a self-tapping screw to the crate on the ceiling. 5. Collapsible scaffolding. 6. The plasterboard sheet is shifted so that it takes its place on the ceiling, and is temporarily pressed against the crate with wedges.

Note: Ceiling - questions and answers

Before puttying, I leveled the ceiling using a building level, and it turned out that in one room the difference is more than 5 cm, and in the other - less than 5 cm. Tell me how to level the surfaces?

Maxim Vorobyov, Minsk

With a ceiling drop of 5 cm, you can install a plasterboard structure. The suspension system and stretch ceilings are also suitable.

If the difference is less than 5 cm, then the ceiling is plastered, then puttied with special mixtures, preparing for painting. When the difference is only 2 cm, the reinforced mesh is fixed, then everything is puttied. If the difference between the levels of the ceiling is insignificant, it is sealed with leveling and finishing putties in several steps.

How to choose a tile for the ceiling and fix it correctly?

Nadezhda Teplyakova, Smolskaya region Ceilings of different rooms are tiled with tiles - with a base of concrete, chipboard, drywall, etc.

There is a tile with a self-adhesive base, as well as with a front side covered with a polymer layer. Such material does not fade in the sun, but it can be painted with acrylic or water-based paint. But plastic tiles with a protective layer are not painted.

In general, ceiling tiles are easy to clean, they provide additional sound and heat insulation, and are not moldy. However, keep in mind: this material is combustible, it is difficult to remove soot and grease stains from it. When installing such tiles, noticeable seams remain.

When buying a tile on the ceiling, carefully inspect it, check the integrity. I advise you to buy about 10% more than the calculated quantity, because the part will go to scrap or still turn out to be of poor quality. Before sticking, this material must be in the room for some time to adapt to temperature and humidity, otherwise it may be deformed.

Clean the ceiling, level if necessary, wash off the whitewash, prime the base. Start gluing from the middle of the ceiling to maintain proportionality. Apply glue to the center and edges of the tile. Then press it firmly against the surface and hold it for a while with a clean cloth.

Seal the seams with putty, sealant, and then paint over with a water-based emulsion. After that, glue the ceiling plinth.

How to deal with old stains on the ceiling due to leaks?

Anatoly Kus, Minsk region

These areas require special treatment. First clean and wash thoroughly, and then wait until it is completely dry. If there was a fungus before, treat with a biocidal solution. And don't wash it off! Immediately after this, coat the ceiling with a universal blocking primer, which will not allow stains to show through putty and paint.

How to hang a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling

Drywall is a versatile building material and can be used with equal success for arranging walls, floors and ceilings. However, ensuring the requirements declared by the manufacturer is possible only if the recommendations regarding the transportation, storage and installation of drywall sheets are fully observed. In addition, one should clearly understand the method of aesthetic design of already assembled structures in order to ensure not only their mechanical strength, but also their external attractiveness.

One of the important issues of the final arrangement of the ceiling is the installation of lighting equipment. And if we got acquainted with the technology of installing spotlights in previous materials, today we would like to analyze in detail how to hang a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling.

Features of mounting a chandelier

Of course, before fixing the lighting fixture to the GKL, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic installation recommendations:

• It is advisable to determine the choice of a chandelier and the method of fixing it in advance (even before installing a suspended ceiling system);
• It is desirable to provide the place of the proposed installation of the ceiling chandelier with an additional profile or embedded structure;
• In the case of fixing the chandelier directly to the drywall sheets, stock up on specialized fasteners (butterflies, folding spring dowels);
• All work should be carried out taking into account safety requirements (using reliable scaffolding, de-energizing the electrical circuit, using specialized personal protective equipment and diagnostics).

Direct installation of the chandelier to the plasterboard

Given the relatively high mechanical properties of drywall, it is possible to fix lighting devices directly to the body of the material. However, before giving preference to such a method, certain limitations should be considered.

Firstly, according to the manufacturer's technical documentation, a correctly mounted gypsum board is capable of carrying a load of up to 6 kg per square meter. In view of which, in the presented manner, only small devices by weight can be hung.

Secondly, when calculating the loads on drywall sheets, one should take into account not only the weight of the chandelier, but also possible deformations that may result from the operation of the device (replacement of lamps, children's games, etc.).

Therefore, in view of the foregoing, it is recommended to fix the chandeliers directly to the drywall sheets only in extreme cases (for example, when completely replacing the lighting fixture).

The very same method of mounting a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling in this case is not particularly difficult and involves the use of special fasteners for plasterboard.

That is, first a hole is drilled in drywall with a diameter equal to the diameter of the mount. After that, the spring dowel or “butterfly” is inserted into the interceiling space and the fasteners are fixed in a high-quality manner. Why the spring dowel is pressed with a nut with an enlarged washer, and “the butterfly is simply pulled up with a self-tapping screw (until it clicks). Moreover, both the dowel and the “butterfly” in the configuration can have a hook or a hairpin, so by choosing any of the fasteners, you can attach a hook or a mounting plate to the drywall, and subsequently fix the lighting device to them. Moreover, the technology of electrical switching of the chandelier in this case will not differ in any way from the standard method of installing chandeliers.

Standard chandelier fixing technology

In 90% of cases, the chandelier is not fixed to the finishing material, but a mounting bracket or hook is screwed to a pre-mounted profile (through drywall). In view of what it is desirable to take into account the basic recommendations for the standard installation of lighting equipment:

1. The mounting profile-mortgage must be located at the same level with the frame elements so as not to deform the ceiling during the installation of the hook or mounting plate;
2. Fixing the embedded profile to the base base of the ceiling should ensure that the chandelier is kept suspended;
3. To install the hook, it is enough to use one mounting profile; when the console is to be mounted, it is advisable to take care of installing two mounting profiles, to each of which a mounting plate will subsequently be fixed;
4. Search for the location of the profiles can be done using a magnet;
5. In the process of fastening, self-tapping screws for plasterboards should be used, taking into account the length (at least 15 mm of the self-tapping screw must be screwed into the frame);
6. For the convenience of work, the conductor outlet should be equipped with a special non-conductive sleeve.

How to hang a heavy chandelier on drywall

In a situation where the mass of the chandelier exceeds 6 kg, the listed methods cannot be dispensed with, because even such a structure attached to the profiles can cause their deformation and destruction of the entire false ceiling. Therefore, in this case, it is better to give preference to a collet-spacer mount and fix the lighting device not to a suspended structure, but directly to the base base of the ceiling, that is, to the existing ceiling.

The method of mounting the chandelier in this case is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Using a perforator with an elongated drill, a recess equal to the diameter of the collet is drilled in the concrete ceiling;
2. The collet is tightly inserted into the resulting recess by hand (it is not permissible to use a hammer), for which the collet spacer is pre-screwed onto the holding pin for 2-3 turns;
3. After the collet is inserted into the recess, the stud is screwed into the mounting hole using a key, as a result of which the collet clamp bursts and prevents the entire structure from falling out.
4. At the end of the work, the quality of the fastener installation is checked (for which you can even hang on it), and a hook or mounting console is fixed to the bottom of the stud, ensuring that the chandelier is fully fixed to the ceiling.

From the foregoing, it can be noted that before hanging a chandelier on drywall, it is advisable to choose the most appropriate option based on the design features of the ceiling and the lighting fixture itself.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the method of self-installation of a chandelier on a GKL ceiling in the following video:

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.

How to install a plasterboard ceiling alone

Decide with a purpose - why the design is needed in the first place: for simple alignment or still masking communications. In the first case, it is enough to make markings at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling, in the second - preferably lower to leave enough space for cables, pipes or insulation.

• draw up a repair plan;
• calculate the number of sheets, profile, fasteners;
• purchase the necessary material;
• choose the right tools;
• clean the ceiling surface;
• make markup according to the scheme.

Professionals know a few secrets on how to properly install drywall on the ceiling. For example, they recommend fastening the panels so that their joints do not match. This means that the first row consists of whole sheets, the second - of cut ones, or vice versa.

We fasten the panels to the longitudinal and transverse profile with self-tapping screws, the step between which is not more than 20 cm. At the junction of two sheets, we slightly shift the fastening, increasing strength. The main parts will have straight sides: We cut the sheet with a knife, then break it by hand. A complex element is best cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw. Installing the panels one by one, we cover the entire ceiling.

To protect the planks from sagging and make them more rigid, we use hangers. We fasten direct suspensions directly to the ceiling, bend the free ends. In addition to long longitudinal rails, we also install transverse ones in order to install fragile drywall on the ceiling with our own hands and along the short side.

Tips on how to screw a sheet of drywall to the ceiling alone

Dividing the sheets in half, make a cut with high quality and evenly. Otherwise, in the future you will encounter a lot of inconsistencies during the installation process. For a quality cut, use a flat bar. In its absence, the building level is suitable. If you live on the upper floors of an apartment building, then the first thing you will encounter is the question of how to bring a drywall sheet into an apartment.

This material is 1.2 m wide and 2.5 m high. And regardless of the thickness, it does not fit in an elevator, even a cargo one. If we talk about climbing stairwells, then this option is also inconvenient, since the material barely fits on the site.

The lift will damage the corners of drywall sheets, or leave a mark on your neighbors doors.

• use a special mounting belt for fastening a screwdriver or drill;
• use nozzles with a magnetic tip, this will simplify some tasks;
• When choosing a power tool, give preference to a cordless screwdriver over a wired one.
• there is a pocket for screws in the mounting belt, use it.

The support resembles a mop. The width of the crossbar is about 90 centimeters, and the length is 10 centimeters more than the height to the frame profiles. Such supports will require 2 pieces. In addition to them, use a bar the size of the floor to the frame. if such an installation solution is not up to you, then the installation of drywall alone cannot be done without props.

Moreover, this method is relevant if you are using not half a sheet, but a whole one. In this case, you need to make them and apply. It is often necessary to move drywall boards by hand.

It is worth noting that doing this alone is inconvenient, a drywall sheet has considerable weight and area. Sheets are usually carried by two workers, but even with such transportation to the floor, the sheet can be broken. There are special systems for carrying sheets of material, for example: As you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing a drywall lift, it is enough to prepare the material in advance and be patient. Further work is carried out in the same order. Although the process will take a long time, this will allow you to glue all the elements extremely securely.

Before starting work, it is necessary to think through all the actions in order to avoid problems. Screwing the plates is very difficult, this will require auxiliary devices. It is easiest to control the plane in which the frame will be mounted by pulling a thread or cord from corner to corner of the room, at the level where horizontal structural elements should be located. Lowering each of them to contact with the cord, you can place them all in the same plane without distortion. There is an easier way - take not a standard drywall, but a thin one.

Especially for bends, a material is used that is only 6 millimeters thick. It is often called "arched". The thickness does not affect its strength at all - in the middle, this type of gypsum board has a special reinforcement that does not allow it to break.

But the material of this thickness bends much better.

How to lift a sheet of drywall alone

For plasterboard ceiling sheathing, the construction industry offers a variety of lifts - factory-made or home-made, allowing the worker to carry out the installation alone. Which option to choose depends on the weight of the building materials and the frequency of use. Installation work can also be done alone. But to lift the GKL and hold it for fixing with self-tapping screws is not an easy task. Uncut drywall weighs about 30 kg, and a large area makes it difficult to grab it comfortably.

Let's figure out how to lift a sheet of drywall to the ceiling alone. Drywall is a lightweight, environmentally friendly material with high strength, indispensable when you want to create a smooth ceiling with levels and lighting. Drywall is produced in sheets 2.5 - 4.8 m long, 1.2 - 1.3 m wide, 6.5 - to 24 mm thick, and two or more people are required to manually lift it to the ceiling.

If there is no device for lifting drywall to the ceiling in the arsenal, you can do it yourself from improvised means. This requires experience in performing work with a welding machine and a grinder. Components for adaptation can be purchased at hardware stores.

Hello everybody! If you have encountered such a problem as the installation of drywall sheets on the ceiling, and since this procedure is very difficult without an assistant, then you may be interested in this topic. So I had to solve this problem. The solution is quite simple - a homemade drywall sheet lifter. This lift is easy to manufacture, easy to disassemble for transportation, weight less than 20 kg. This homemade product can be made by almost anyone with a minimum of tools and available material.

For manufacturing you will need:
Welding machine
Bulgarian
Drill or screwdriver
Drill
Keys
Hand tool
Sandpaper
Paint, brush
Profile pipe (20*20, 20*40, 25*50)
Power window drive VAZ “classic”
Bolts and nuts - M10 and M6
furniture wheels
Steel wire 4 mm
A piece of pipe half an inch and a steel rod along the inside diameter of the pipe
Iron sheet 2 mm

At the initial stage, the question arose of what to make the lifting mechanism. On the Internet, there were many options with various winches, ratchet mechanisms, etc. but all of them are bulky and difficult to perform or expensive.

Quite by accident, a mechanism from a manual window regulator of a domestic VAZ “classic” car turned out to be at hand. This mechanism is compact, inexpensive and, most importantly, has an automatic lock, namely, if you do not rotate the gear knob, the shaft with the cable remains locked, and when rotated in any direction, the lock is turned off - this is just what you need. But a little modification was still required. The essence of the alteration is that the standard mounting bolts are very short and unreliable.

For the alteration, it was necessary to drill out two fasteners and install bolts with a diameter of 6 mm of the required length and fix with nuts to preserve the integrity of the mechanism case.

Next, I cut out a plate from sheet iron for mounting the lifting mechanism. The dimensions of the plate are approximately 11 by 8 cm and at least 2 mm thick.

I drilled two mounting holes and connected the plate to the gearbox with two nuts.
As you can see in the photo, the cutout made in the center serves for a tighter fit of the plate to the mechanism.

Next, I took a profile pipe 50 * 25 * 1.5 mm 155 cm long, which will be the main stand of the lift. Stepping back from the edge of the rack 25 cm, fixed the lifting mechanism with the mounting plate by welding.

I decided to make the rack with removable and adjustable struts. To do this, I cut out four segments 11 cm long from a 50 * 25 profile pipe.

I drilled two holes with a diameter of 11 mm in each segment on one narrow side, stepping back from the edges by about 2 cm.

I installed 10 mm bolts with nuts in the drilled holes for centering and welded the nuts to the profile. At this stage, I want to make an amendment - in this case, one hole with a nut on each section of the profile will be enough. This was confirmed in practice after the complete assembly of the lift.

I welded two parallel guides for longer racks to the bottom of the rack, and welded the remaining two pieces of pipe perpendicularly above these guides. All this looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing, but it makes it possible to adjust the distance of the spacers for each separately.

The spacers themselves were made from a profile pipe 20 * 40 * 1.5 mm. Spacers that will be located along the width of the sheet are enough sections of a profile pipe of 50 cm each, in my case 60 cm. For spacers along the length of the sheet, pipes of 70 cm are enough, I have 90 cm. Since the lift was made without any drawings and calculations and in this case, more is better than less, and it is easier to make a short one from a long pipe than vice versa.

Since the guides for the struts are at different levels, I welded pipe sections of the appropriate height to the struts of the upper level to align.

For the convenience of positioning drywall sheets, the lifter equipped with furniture wheels, which were screwed into nuts welded at the ends of the spacers to pre-drilled holes.

Further, for the operation of the retractable, telescopic mechanism, it also required a rotating fulcrum. This support consists of a roller for the cable from the power window mechanism, a dozen bolt with short thread nuts and a mounting plate with a thickness of at least 2 mm. All this is assembled into one whole as in the photo. During assembly, I lubricated the bolt and the inner hole of the roller with automotive grease (lithol).

I cut a small groove in the upper part of the rack, into which a roller with a cable should partially enter to lift the inner pipe. The inner tube 20*40 has a length of 170 cm.

The plate with the roller is fastened by welding, but the inner pipe must first be installed, which should not come into contact with the roller, and the gap between them should be minimal. This will reduce the play between the pipes.

In the inner tube, stepping back from the bottom edge of 35 cm (the indent serves to prevent the inner tube from completely flying out when lifting), I drilled a hole with a diameter of 5 mm for the cable. I passed the cable from the power window through the hole inside the pipe, made a loop at the end of the cable and additionally clamped it with a bolt so that the cable could not be pulled back through the hole.

All retractable rack is ready.

This required three pieces of a half-inch pipe of 7 cm, a steel rod of 25 cm of suitable diameter, which fits snugly into the inside of the pipe segments. Two plates for the gap between the parts, a piece of a 25 * 50 profile pipe that will be put on a retractable rack and a main 25 * 50 profile pipe 80 cm long for a drywall sheet holder. The assembly process can be seen from the photo.

I divided the main pipe with jumpers at the ends and, stepping back from the edges of the pipe by 20 cm, drilled holes in the center, installed pieces of nails inside the pipe and fixed them by welding. This is done to eliminate the backlash of the two inner pipes 20 * 20 80 cm long, which will move inside. To fix the internal profiles on the outer pipe, I welded nuts along the edges to pre-drilled holes, as described earlier. Similarly, I divided it with jumpers and welded the nuts to two segments of a 10 cm long profile pipe 25 * 50. Pipes 20 * 20 55 cm long will be fixed inside these profiles, all connections are independently adjustable.

After the assembly was completed, the profile pipes were cleaned with sandpaper and painted with a primer for metal.

When assembled, it turned out as in the photo.

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Drywall lift: an overview of factory models and recommendations for assembling homemade ones

Do you want to facilitate and speed up the process of installing a plasterboard ceiling? The experience I have accumulated allows me to assert that a drywall lift will do just fine for this purpose. A review of current offers from manufacturers will help me prove this. And the instructions for making a homemade copy will give you the opportunity to make an alternative purchase decision.

Proposals from manufacturers

The lift for drywall (gypsum boards) provides significant advantages during operations with drywall sheets in comparison with the implementation of all work manually:

• Reduces the number of installers to one person. No matter how virtuoso you are, you will not succeed in attaching a drywall sheet to the ceiling alone. The strut lifter makes this trick possible;

• Facilitates the transport of drywall sheets by construction site. The device in question allows not only to lift and hold sections, but also to transport them from place to place.

In hardware stores you can find the following fixtures for installing drywall on the ceiling:

Please note that the prices in the article are current in the summer of 2017.

Levpano 1

The Levpano 1 drywall lift is the brainchild of the German company Knauf, which has long and rightly earned a reputation as a manufacturer of high quality products. Specifications:

Premos

The lifting height of the purchased model must be at least 350 cm, so that it is convenient to use even in rooms with high ceilings.

Premos is a professional drywall lift capable of handling tasks of varying complexity. It is noteworthy that it costs, despite the high operational capabilities, inexpensive.

Specifications:

EDMA

Models in the design of which there are unreliable plastic elements, I recommend ignoring. As practice shows, their service life is short, and the risk of sudden breakdown during operation is very high.

"Edma" is a representative of a popular French brand, a distinctive feature of which can be called the possibility of operation in a limited space. Specifications:

DIY manufacturing

The first thing you will need when you decide to make a drywall lift with your own hands is drawings. There are plenty of them on the Internet, choose at your discretion. An example of one of them:

There are four main nodes that you need to think about for your lift and implement:

1. tripod. This is the base that holds the entire device. For convenience, it is usually supplemented with wheels and locking mechanisms;

1. Tripod. Telescopic stand, which is most often made of profile pipes inserted into each other with sections of 80, 60 and 40 mm;

1. Rotary table—stand. H-shaped design, on which the GKL will be laid;

1. winch. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made one, since assembling it yourself, even for a specialist with special equipment, is a time-consuming and difficult task.