Roof from scratch with your own hands. How to quickly and correctly build a roof at home with your own hands

The task of independently building a gable roof is feasible, subject to a deep study of all stages of a multi-stage process. The calculation of the need for materials precedes the determination of the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. The design of a gable roof has many solutions when choosing options for connecting the main elements. The following information and videos will help you get a deeper understanding of all stages of construction.

Characteristics of a gable roof

There are several reasons to make a roof of a traditional form when arranging your own home. The key point is the ease of erection of a gable structure. As additional bonuses, you get an attractive appearance and a practical attic space. In addition to the design of the main building, there is often an extension with a gable roof, which is in harmony with the original facade.

First you need to decide on the configuration and choose the optimal angle of inclination. The calculation of the indicator is carried out taking into account the following factors:

Precipitation level in winter. The steeper the slope, the less snow will accumulate on the gable roof.
Wind loads inherent in this region. An excessively large angle of inclination increases the windage of the roof and reduces its strength.
Plans for the exploitation of the attic space. If you build a roof with an angle of inclination of less than 40 °, it will be very difficult for a person to stay there.
The consumption of roofing materials is directly dependent on the chosen slope angle: the larger it is, the higher the construction costs.

The main elements of a gable roof:

Mauerlat;
rafter system;
roofing cake.

Each of them has its own installation features. Rafters are mounted and layered, depending on the type chosen, they install additional elements of the system:

puff;
skate;
vertical racks;
struts.

The gable roof of the truss system is shown in the photo below:

Roof area calculation

To determine the volume of purchased materials for a gable roof, you must first calculate the area. This will prevent unforeseen expenditure of time and effort for additional purchase and delivery. So, how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200ba gable roof:

the entire roof structure is conditionally divided into simple geometric shapes;
using formulas from the school curriculum, each area can be calculated separately;
to calculate the length of the gable roof slope, include the gap from the cornice to the roof ridge;
the presence of skylights, chimneys and ventilation openings will not significantly change the consumption of materials;

Important! The type of roofing material affects the length of the slopes.

The use of soft tiles or roll coating reduces the slope by 70 cm. The calculation is carried out step by step: first, the parameters of the individual parts are determined, then the indicators are summarized. After determining the area, they proceed to the preparation of the material base.

material support

Arranging the roof with your own hands involves the independent purchase of materials and the preparation of tools. The main material for the formation of the Mauerlat and the truss system is a wooden beam. The information given in the following tables will help you navigate in choosing the required section for various elements of the truss system, and will also characterize various types of roofing:

You should also consider the option of gable roof lathing, depending on the chosen roofing. Rigid material allows you to build a lattice structure, the use of soft or rolled products requires the installation of a continuous crate made of plywood or OSB boards. The constructed roof must have a waterproofing layer. The operation of the attic space implies high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, fasteners in the form of nails and anchor bolts will be required.

Starting the construction of a gable roof, a set of all the necessary tools should be at hand. The following video will help you correctly calculate the consumption of materials:

Mauerlat

The construction of a gable roof begins with the installation of a mauerlat, the main function of which is to evenly distribute the gravity of the truss system to the supporting structures of the building. A bar with a section of 150 * 150 mm is able to withstand regular loads. The installation of a Mauerlat for a gable roof goes on walls parallel to each other.

Fixing is done in several ways:

With the use of a beam. A similar type of connection is planned at the stage of erection of load-bearing walls. The essence of the method is that the bars are inserted into the brickwork several rows before it ends. Then, with special brackets, the embedded elements are connected to the Mauerlat under the gable roof.
With the use of pins. Similar to the previous method, preparation starts before the end of the brickwork. The diameter of the studs varies from 12 to 15 cm, installation is carried out with an interval of 1-2 meters.
Fastening to the Mauerlat wall under a gable roof can be done with steel wire. Laying material with a cross section of 3-4 mm is also carried out below the upper edge for several rows of bricks. Upon completion of the masonry, there should be free ends of the wire with which the Mauerlat is tied. The number of ligaments should exceed the number of rafter legs.

Sometimes a reinforced concrete belt acts as a Mauerlat under a gable roof. Built after the walls were erected, it is equipped with studs. The installation of a wooden beam with prepared holes for the studs is completed by fixing the nuts.

Important! Regardless of the chosen method of fixing the Mauerlat under a gable roof, before laying it, waterproofing of the bearing walls is carried out. Roofing material acts as an insulating material.

One of the options for mounting a Mauerlat for a gable roof is presented in the video:

truss system

Installation of the truss system is the most important stage in the arrangement of a gable roof. Initially, the section of the beam is determined, which depends on the length of the rafter legs, the gap between them and the calculated gravity of the roofing. A properly selected gap between the rafters will help to speed up the process of designing a gable roof, which allows you not to spend additional effort on trimming the heat-insulating material.

Whether you're building a new home or building an extension with a pitched roof, the rafter installation process includes the following steps:

The arrangement of the truss system above the room attached to the main task can be studied in the following video:

Roofing cake and finishing touches

The next stage in the construction of a gable roof is the arrangement of a roofing pie. This tasty name means the installation of three layers of insulation:

The first is a waterproofing layer, the purpose of which is to protect the entire gable roof structure from moisture. The gap between the insulating and roofing material is 2 to 5 cm.
Next, the thermal insulation layer is laid. High-quality material will ensure the retention of heat under the roof during the cold period and will not allow heat to quickly penetrate into the summer heat. Installation of insulation is carried out between the rafters, its functions are performed by materials containing mineral wool.
At the final stage, a vapor barrier layer is formed to prevent steam from penetrating the gable roof structure. The fixation of the material is carried out with an overlap using a construction stapler. All joints are closed with a special tape.

Internal work on the installation of a gable roof is completed with sheathing. For these purposes, lining or drywall sheets are optimal. After that, they proceed to the formation of the crate, the type of which depends on the characteristics of the roofing material.

The final touch is the design of the gable roof with roofing. Installation is carried out taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer, compliance with which guarantees long-term operation without major repairs. One of the arrangement options is shown in the video:

Anyone with basic building skills can build a gable roof with their own hands. During construction, you will need step-by-step instructions.

To get a reliable roof you need:

Choose the type of roof that suits the structure of the building and a convenient method of construction so that the selected type ensures the strength and reliability of the entire system. To do this, you need to consider what kind of attic you want and how you will use it in the future.
Calculate the desired angle of inclination.
Consider in detail the design of the entire building.
Calculate and purchase the right amount of materials for construction.

In this article

Calculate the angle

To make a gable roof with a large angle means that its height will increase. Accordingly, it will easily cope with the accumulation of snow, and also reduce the load on the truss system from its own weight and the weight of the fallen snow. But if you look from a different angle, then a high roof requires a lot of material costs. Also, its windage increases sharply. The angle of inclination can vary from 5 to 60 degrees.

The smallest angle of inclination is specified by the manufacturer of the material. It depends on its type.

Tiles and slates use an angle of at least 20 degrees.
The corrugated board is laid at an angle of at least 12 degrees.
If the roofing is made of rolled materials, then the angle depends on the number of layers. The number of layers increases strength and reduces the angle. When using a two-layer coating, the applied angle should not be less than 10-15 degrees. 3-layer roll type roofings are well suited for flat roofs with 2-4 degrees of slope.
When using ondulin, the minimum angle is 6 degrees.
Metal tile - 14 degrees.

During construction, it is important to take into account the bearing capacity of all frame elements, as well as the load on the walls and foundation.

Design features and methods of construction

In order to make the right choice of type, consider the main types and methods of building a gable roof in order to build housing, car shelter, utility room and other structures.

The elements that form the basis of a gable roof are:

Horizontal base - rafters are attached to it. Mauerlat can be used - a bar that is laid along the walls that serve as the main support. Also used in the presence of wooden beams.
Rafter legs.
Lathing - its fastening is carried out to the rafters. The crate serves as the basis for the roofing material.
Roof.

Elements that serve to complement the roof:

to strengthen the strength use racks, stops, braces;
membranes, films - create a waterproofing layer;
insulation;
counter-lattice - bars with the help of which waterproofing is fixed. Their installation is carried out along the rafters;
wind and bridge strips;
skate.

When building a roof with your own hands, the rafters play a supporting role for the entire roof structure. The load that is created when a large amount of snow falls, strong wind gusts are transmitted through the rafters to the walls.

There are several main types of gable roofs.

Laminated rafters - make their support below and above on the supporting structures. There may be walls or a horizontal run.
Hanging rafters - from above they are supported and attached to each other. Form truss trusses.

How to build a gable roof? This question arises for many. The best and simplest option would be a gable roof with a layered truss system. But for this type of roof, the room on which it is being built must have a load-bearing wall or columns in the middle. In this case, the room in the attic is divided by a support post or wall.

Roofing with hanging rafters is more difficult. For this, there is a special guide and theoretical materials that you will need to familiarize yourself with. They will shed light on how to build and calculate everything correctly. The hanging rafter system allows you to make a roof without a supporting wall in the middle. The attic in this case will also become spacious, if desired, it will be possible to make an attic.

Required Items

The quantity and characteristics of materials are determined by the design of the building. The number of beams for the Mauerlat can be found from the dimensions of the perimeter of the building, plus a small margin. The material required for the truss system depends on the width of the span, the angle of inclination, and the installation step.

Roofing material directly affects the step of the installed crate.

In order to accurately find out the amount of materials, the best way would be to draw up a diagram-drawing of the building indicating all sizes, types, sections.

The tool for construction may be different, but the basis is:

an ax, a hammer with a nail puller, a hacksaw, a saw, a tape measure;
ruler, square, level, drill, plumb line.

The procedure for installing a gable roof

Support beam. Installation

Mauerlat is mounted in several ways:

pour concrete onto the walls and embed studs into it. The height of the belt is 20-30 cm, the step is 100-150 cm. The hairpin must be 2 cm higher than the Mauerlat beam in order to tighten it with a nut;
we install studs in concrete between bricks when laying the last row.

To begin with, before installation, you need to put a layer of waterproofing on the studs. We fix the Mauerlat with anchor bolts.

Installation of the truss system

First, we determine the cross section of the rafters. It depends on the length and distance between them. The distance should be suitable for convenient laying of insulation.

The nuances of installing rafter legs are as follows.

We collect a template for the further construction of roof trusses. We connect 2 boards equal to the rafters, on one side with a nail.
We install the template with a free edge on the supports for the rafters. The resulting angle will be the slope of the roof slope. We fix the structure with nails. To fix the angle, it is better to install a transverse bar.
The plywood template is great for rafter cuts to help with installation.
Cut out the mounting holes. Next, we make their connection at the calculated angle of inclination of the roof slope. The resulting triangle is a truss truss. We raise it to the roof with the help of a ladder and attach it to the Mauerlat.
According to the rules, for convenience, we first install the extreme farms. In order not to make a mistake, you need to fix temporary slopes horizontally and vertically.
We stretch a cord between the installed rafters. So it is convenient to determine the level of other farms.
We install all the rafters at a pre-calculated distance. It should be at least 0.6 meters.
We complete the installation by strengthening with the help of struts, crossbars, supports.
We fix the ridge beam on special supports.

Water and thermal protection

After installing the rafters for the quality of the roof of the house, we make its insulation from water and cold with our own hands. Parallel to the ridge beam, we fasten roll material from the inside of the rafters. The connections are overlapped and sealed with adhesive tape.

The distance between the rafters is filled with mineral wool insulation. To protect the roof from leaks or condensation, we install waterproofing. We mount it from the outside using staples and a stapler. Rails are nailed on top.

crate

The last step is the installation of the crate. It is necessary to use a dry, knot-free timber. We begin to nail it from the bottom of the cornices. To test the strength, simply stand on it with your weight of about 80 kg. There are no deflections - the work is done perfectly, the built house is ready for operation.

This video will help you figure out how to build a gable roof and decide on all its elements:

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his home on his own. According to their reviews, self-erecting a roof is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage, having in mind a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To figure out how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, the procedure for work and the features of fastening all components of the structure.

Roof types

First you need to decide on the form. To date, the most popular types are:

Form Features

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, then the labor intensity of the work will be the least, and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is mounted much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the four-slope, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular gables along the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before proceeding with the independent construction of a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. Such a system has more elements than the previous two. In addition, there is no way to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure is devoid of gables and installation is difficult or unavoidable.

The four-slope is difficult to construct, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, a combined design with. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper part. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the house built more comfortable.

A broken line is not the most “architectural”, but very efficient in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate sections of all elements. In most cases, they can be accepted constructively:

mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
runs - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
pads with a thickness of 32 to 50 mm.

The calculation is usually performed only for rafter and sloping legs. It is required to choose the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

roofing material;
snow region;
the pitch of the rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation, for mineral wool between the elements, 58 cm should remain in the light);
span.

You can choose the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case, it is recommended to make a small margin.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you do not want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you intend to make a warm roof, then the height of the section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, the installation of a counter-lattice (counter-rail) is provided.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:

taking measurements of the building box (the dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
preparation of materials and tools, wood treatment with an antiseptic;
fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
frame installation;
strengthening the roof with the help of racks, struts and puffs;
waterproofing;
crate;
provision of ventilation;
installation of drips;
cover installation.

Fixing the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fixed, care must be taken to securely connect it to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown of a bar or log acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This version of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation.

"Sliding" mount in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with a gash using corners, staples or nails.

Methods for attaching rafters to the strapping in a frame house

The construction of a roof made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete implies fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to put the Mauerlat on the wall:

on staples;
on studs;
for anchor bolts.

Mauerlat can be fixed on brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are laid in the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the other to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be classified as simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Mauerlat fastening on brackets. In the masonry of the wall, antiseptic wooden blocks are provided with a step of 1-1.5 m

Do-it-yourself fastening during roof installation can be carried out through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the edge, you need to lightly hit it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain on the beam in the places of fasteners. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After that, the timber is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete in the presence of a monolithic armo-belt.

Fastening rafters to Mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to carry out with the help of a rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both layered and hanging systems. The design assumes two ways:

with a notch;
without notch.

In the first case, the rafters are hemmed with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the Mauerlat. For the removal of the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will have greater reliability if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixing.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the frame overhang is provided by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, use persistent bars or boards. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Fastening rafters to the wall

The frame made must be fixed to the box of the building - this will not allow a strong gust of wind to tear off the roof. To do this, it is necessary to take as a rule the use of a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg at the place of support on the Mauerlat, and after that the wire is attached to the wall on an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in advance in masonry.

Windbreak protection

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

System Gain

How to strengthen the frame with spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this, struts and racks are used. It is necessary to make reinforcement taking into account the layout, it is important that these elements do not interfere with the stay of people and harmoniously fit into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. Racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They are allowed to be installed on the underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between the walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce thrust. Because of him, the rafters can simply disperse. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two puffs, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails or studs.

At the top, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross section of 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

crate

Before starting work at this stage, it is required to lay a waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor-diffusion moisture and wind-protective membrane. It is more expensive than plastic film, but provides better protection. Your home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fixing the crate. The type depends on the chosen roofing material. For metal, a sparse crate made of boards 32-40 mm thick will suffice. Under bituminous tiles, a solid crate of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood is needed.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding to the stage of laying the roof, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect the structure from mold, fungus and destruction.

Proper arrangement of ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

air flow through the eaves (the filing of the cornice is made with a rarefied board or special perforated spotlights);
air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
air outlet in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge (for this, a ridge and / or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roofing

The type of roofing is selected from aesthetic and economic considerations. It is also worth studying the offers of manufacturers and finding out the permissible slope. For example, bitumen shingles are not recommended for laying at a slope of more than 45 °.

Seam roofing is a lightweight, fireproof and durable coating.

The wall material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Roof installation is a complex multi-stage process. In order to independently assemble and install the truss system, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of connecting the elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you do not have the necessary experience, you should not take on complex designs. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a beam laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is fixed with threaded steel rods immured into the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the outer walls.

rafter legs- these are long boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The design of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of farms depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, one should take into account not only the weight of the coating, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in the winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. From below, the timber is supported by vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards, which are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks - vertical bars with a section of 100x100 mm, located inside each farm and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from timber scraps and set at an angle between the uprights and the rafters. The side faces of the truss are strengthened with struts, the bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Puff - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss, increases its resistance to loads.

Lying is a long bar with a section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical racks rest. Lying is used when installing layered rafters, when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The crate is a board or timber stuffed on the rafters. The crate is solid and with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the outer walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With such a system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other with nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge timber. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the outer walls. Due to the lack of racks, the attic space can be used to equip the attic. Very often, floor beams perform the function of puffs. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the upper puff at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

In the presence of a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered truss system. A bed is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to perform. If the ceilings in the interior are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The installation process of the roof includes several stages: fastening the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the truss trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, fastening the batten. All wooden elements before assembly are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in the air.

For work you will need:

timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
boards 50x150 mm;
boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
ruberoid;
metal studs;
jigsaw and hacksaw;
hammer;
nails and screws;
square and building level.

in wooden houses Mauerlat functions are performed by logs of the last row, which greatly simplifies the workflow. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

in brick houses or buildings from blocks, the installation of the Mauerlat is as follows:

Mauerlat bars should form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. In conclusion, markings are made on the bars for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the bar.

When choosing a hanging truss system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground, and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily ventilated areas, it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between the outer walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often, it is 4-6 m, taking into account the cornice overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlap, butt and "in the paw", that is, with cut grooves. For fixing use metal pads or bolts. Next, the lower and upper puffs are mounted, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceilings.

The extreme trusses are attached first: with the help of a plumb line, the rafters are set vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the Mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. So that during the installation process the farm does not move, it is strengthened with temporary jibs from a bar. After installing the extreme rafters, the rest are exposed, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are fixed, they take a board with a section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the eaves, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. Do the same on the other side of the roof.

The first option: on the rafter leg, at the place of contact with the Mauerlat, a rectangular groove is cut out 1/3 of the beam width. Stepping back from the top of the box 15 cm, a steel crutch is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is thrown on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fixed on the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

The second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped brick cornice, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut at the level of the upper corner of the eaves. This method is simpler than the others, but the overhang is too narrow.

The third option: ceiling beams are extended beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, fixing with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic.

The device of layered rafters

1 shows the cutting of the struts of the rafters into a bed laid on intermediate supports, and in Fig. 2 - supporting the rafter leg on the Mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered truss system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with flame retardants. Now you can start making the crate.

A beam of 50x50 mm is suitable for the crate, as well as boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm and a width of 12 cm or more. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the crate to protect the truss system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal stripes from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material spreads with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are fastened with adhesive tape. The bottom edges of the film must completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is the sheathing of the truss system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the rails, starting from the roof eaves. The step of the lathing is affected not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After the installation of the battens is completed, they begin to sheath the gables and overhangs. You can close the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated board - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. Sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters, nails or self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - Do-it-yourself gable roof

The main purpose of this article is to consider the process of self-construction of a gable roof for a country private house. Why double-sided? The fact is that this form is the most convenient both in terms of financial costs and ease of installation compared to other configurations. Another option is a shed roof, however, it is practically not suitable for low-rise construction and is usually used only for outbuildings, garages and other similar structures. However, you can find very successful solutions with shed roofs.

Construction teams may build the same roof in slightly different ways. Probably, some method can be called more reliable and simpler than the one presented in this article, but this is a topic for a separate discussion. There are two types of gable roof trusses: in the first case, the rafters are laid on the Mauerlat, in the second, the rafters are laid on the floors of the previous floor. This article discusses the second option.

Calculations hereinafter are given for a brick box measuring 8x8 meters and 3 meters in height. As with other roof construction options, the first step here is to install a Mauerlat. You need to mount the Mauerlat on the inside of the walls, and lay bricks on the outside for aesthetic reasons. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the upper part of the mauerlat does not protrude 2-3 cm beyond the facing brick. This is necessary so that the roof load falls precisely on the mauerlat, otherwise it will be transferred to the facing brick, which is fundamentally wrong.

floor beams

The next step is the installation of beam ceilings. First you need to install the extreme floor beams. Their removal will determine the width of the eaves. The width of the cornice, depending on the wishes of the customer, can be 40-50 cm. Beams are special beams, the cross section of which must be calculated separately, taking into account various points (snow load, wind load and other factors).

First of all, we put the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4.

For the specified brick box with a size of 8x8 meters, the cross section of the timber is selected 100x200 mm. When the extreme beams of the section are installed, it is necessary to pull the cord along the top and expose the other beams. In this case, it is usually required either to trim the Mauerlat under them, or to lay thin plywood. Remarkably, this has to be done often, especially considering that the ordered timber may be slightly different in cross section. If you order a beam of 200 mm, then they can bring 190-210. Such is the equipment in our country at sawmills.

It is necessary to take into account the step of the beams, based on the step size of the rafters that will be laid in the future. For example, if floorboards of 50x150 mm are taken, then it would be good to choose a step of 60-70 cm, it is even better to stop at 60 cm, taking into account that roofing insulation usually has such a width. After installing long beams, you need to put short ones. The step for them is most often 1 meter.

To attach the beams to the Mauerlat, 150 nails are suitable. Sometimes the use of self-tapping screws and metal rafter corners is allowed. In principle, if builders use a variety of fasteners, the result is an easier job to complete. A variety of fasteners makes life much easier for an inexperienced builder, because you do not need to bother creating notches and cuts.

Plank flooring

The next step is the flooring of the boards. It is acceptable to use inches, as well as floorboards. They do not need to be fixed, they are only necessary to be able to walk normally. Next, you should install the ridge beam. To do this, you first need to install with a level or plumb rack 50x100 mm, strengthen them with temporary struts. It would be optimal to choose a step for racks in the region of 3 meters. First of all, the extreme racks are installed, then the laces are pulled between them, then the intermediate ones.

When the roof truss is ready, the intermediate posts can be removed and work on creating living quarters on the second floor. It is necessary to select the height of the racks depending on the desired shape of the roof. The optimal choice is a height equal to the distance from the ground to the Mauerlat. First you need to install the racks, then put the ridge beam on top and fix it with several screws. As the latter, it is permissible to use a board measuring 50x200 mm.

Installation of rafters

The first step is to create a template from a board about 25x150. You need to attach the board to the end of the ridge beam, then to the beam and draw two lines. Then saw off the board, and now the template is ready. Ideally, you need to lay out the foot of the house with high accuracy and the mandatory installation of floor beams. In this case, you can quickly cut the rafters according to the template and install them immediately. However, this can be difficult to do, especially when the roof is updated on an old house.

First you need to make the top washed down in accordance with the template. After that, you should attach the workpiece to the beam, mark the bottom gash. Thus, you will need to install all the rafters. So that the load does not fall on the ridge beam, and it does not bend, after installing one rafter, you must immediately put the opposite one on it.

What to do if the slope at the roof is large enough and the length of standard 6-meter boards is not enough? There are two ways to solve the problem. First: just order longer boards. Immediately it is worth making a reservation that they will cost more by 15-25%. But in this case, the installation will be much faster and less effort will be required.

The second option is splicing two boards. For example, you can sew trimmings of 1.5-2 meters, the main thing is that the sections of the two blanks are the same. The joint is made at the bottom, an additional rack should be installed under it. You can attach the rafter to the ridge beam with several nails. You can attach the beam to the ceiling with mounting plates, self-tapping screws and a couple of nails. Less commonly, staples are used. When working with staples, non-professionals often make mistakes. It is necessary to ensure that the bracket works in tension.

The next step is the installation of racks and a crossbar under all rafters except for the extreme ones. During the construction of the mansard roof, the racks act as a frame for the side walls, and the crossbars serve as ceiling beams.

After strengthening the truss truss, you should move on to the gables. First you need to install additional racks that act as a gable frame. The installation can be controlled with a string that runs along the bottom of the rafters. After that, you should make a window opening. The choice of configuration and size - a wide scope for imagination.

After finishing work with the frame, it is necessary to sheathe the gable with an inch.

If in the future you need to install a drainage system and metal holders, you need to install the latter on the rafters immediately. At this stage, it is desirable to sheathe the frontal boards with siding. You can use plastic gutter holders, which should be attached to the front boards.

crate

It is necessary to fix the waterproofing film on the rafters using a special construction stapler. It is most convenient to work around the perimeter, unless, of course, the rafters are already installed. You can put them right away, because in any case this will need to be done when installing the roof, the drainage system and sheathing the cornices with siding.

After fixing the film, you need to nail the counter-lattice to the rafters. You will need to leave a little space for overlapping the next part of the waterproofing. After that, you can begin to manufacture the crate, which you need to cover the entire roof.

At the next stage, it remains to create a gable tide with a gable overhang. To begin with, to the emerging ends of the crate, you need to hem the wind board of the gable overhang 25x150 mm, insert it and fix it with the help of self-tapping filly screws of the gable overhang. It is necessary to observe the distance - about 1 meter between them.