Fungicides against gray mold. Rot - control measures

Like any fungus, botrytis prefers heat and high humidity. The pathogen infects weakened plants and, in the form of mycelium, winters well with grapes. If the summer resident is too lazy to remove fallen leaves and berries in the fall, they become a breeding ground for a fungal infection.

With the advent of spring, the mycelium and immobile spores grow and are carried by the wind in May. The rapid reproduction of the infection in the summer can completely ruin the garden, so you need to start fighting the signs of gray rot as soon as possible, using special preparations and folk fungicides.

The following factors increase the likelihood of infection:

1. Damp weather;
2. dense plantings;
3. Inflated indicators of air humidity;
4. Poor ventilation due to density and a large number of shoots;
5. Cultivation of varieties characterized by a dense cluster and a sugar content index of more than 15%.

Symptoms of gray rot on grapes

The main localization of gray rot is the aerial part of the bush. Let's consider each department in order and describe the specific symptoms of gray rot on grapes.

On the leaves

Brown spots with bloom on the leaves of grapes are a clear sign of gray rot. The plaque consists of conidiophores - fungi that scatter motionless spores. In conditions of heat and high humidity, botrytis is manifested by drying and falling of infected leaves.

On the run

On the branches of the vine, a fungal disease causes necrosis of the woody part. Dead tissue has a brown tint and a gray coating. Rot gives the vine a yellowish color or makes it discolored.

On inflorescences

During the flowering period of grapes, gray rot spoils its buds. Inflorescences change their color, fade and fall off the vine.

On bunches

Fungal gray rot on grapes touches the legs of the ridges and inhibits the development of brushes. Berries quickly wither and dry out.

On fruits

It is easy to distinguish gray rot on grapes by several symptoms:

• The formation of round foci of purple color.
• Darkening of the skin and loosening of its structure.
• Fruit death.

A common symptom of gray rot for different parts of the grape is a gray fluffy coating formed by mitospores of fungal agents. Grape disease got its name precisely on this basis.

How to treat gray mold of grapes

Prevention and treatment of gray rot in grapes is carried out 4 times per season:

1. When the plants have bloomed.
2. When forming clusters.
3. A month and a half before harvest.
4. After the fall.

In the absence of natural risk factors for the development of a fungal disease, the grapes are processed twice - before closing in the brush and shortly before cutting the ripe bunches. With a high prevalence of botrytis in the region, leaves and buds are additionally processed before flowering.

Used against botrytis:

More gentle options would be potassium iodide, diluted with water in a proportion of 2 g of the substance per 10 liters of liquid, and copper sulfate (15 g for each bucket of water). Spraying with Mikal, Antrakol and Folpan will also help protect grapes from gray rot. Some gardeners use a solution of baking soda and manganese crystals.

To rid the plantation of a fungal infection forever, it is important to prevent plants from getting used to drugs. To do this, when processing the garden, alternate spraying solutions.

Gray rot on grapes: how to deal with folk remedies

In order not to treat the fruit crop with chemicals, which, if mishandled, can lead to human poisoning and damage to plantings, we recommend using folk remedies for gray rot of grapes.

Here are a few recipes for an effective fight against botrytis:

1. Iodine solution. 10 drops of iodine are diluted in a bucket of water and the plantation is sprayed weekly.
2. Garlic infusion. During the day, 100 g of garlic peels are insisted on water heated to 40 ° C. The amount of liquid - 10 liters.
3. Mustard infusion. The powder is poured with hot water at the rate of 50 g of mustard per 5 liters of liquid. The solution is infused for 2 days and additionally diluted with water in equal proportions.
4. A solution of baking soda. To increase the sugar content of the culture, eliminate the mycelium of the botrytis fungus and treat the oidium, the grapes are sprayed with 8 - 10% soda concentrate.

Preventive actions

Prevention of gray rot consists in regular spraying of grapes and a careful examination of weakened areas of plants and places of cuts after green operations. Since botrytis loves an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, this factor must be eliminated.

Experienced agronomists know that the primary infection of grapes with gray rot in the spring does not develop further if the weather is consistently dry in the summer. However, this is no reason to risk the condition of the vineyard and not protect it from the fungus. Neglect of therapeutic and preventive measures is fraught with decay of the ridges and the fruiting part of the vine.

So that shrubs do not grow, it is important to comply with the norms for planting young growth per unit area. With this approach, the nursery will be able to be well ventilated and protected from infection in a natural way.

Proper feeding and watering of grapes, as well as timely pruning, chasing, thinning the ovary, crown formation and spraying of shrubs, are an integral part of the fight against gray rot. The frequency of watering in order to avoid increasing the humidity in the garden should be determined by the stage of development of a particular bush.

Rot is a whole group of diseases that spreads first to parts of plants, and then to the whole plant. The appearance of rot is caused by fungi, but there is also rot of a bacterial nature. Depending on the affected area of ​​the plant, there are rots of the root system, leaves, twigs and trunks, rot also affects fruits and berries. The pathogens that cause rot develop under the snow when there are no plants yet. There are white, black and gray rot. Let's talk about gray rot, the causative agent of which is the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

Gray rot affects indoor and agricultural plants. Tomatoes, grape leaves, strawberries, cucumbers and eggplants are especially susceptible to the disease. Gray rot, which appears when the conditions for storage and transportation of root crops are not observed, is called "hull rot". Very often, flower crops suffer from gray rot, especially those with white flowers.

The fungus spreads by air, infection is possible when caring for the plant and during harvesting. Fungus spores can be dispersed in water. If you still can't see the affected areas, this does not mean that the plant does not have sclerotia that cause the disease.

Common rot looks like brown spots, they quickly increase on young shoots and leaves. High humidity contributes to the appearance of gray fluffy spores and mycelium, which are carried by the wind and can infect neighboring plants. Rot spreads from one plant to another, any vegetable and berry crops can succumb to the disease.

Kinds

Rot is a fairly common problem, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits defeat is huge. The list of vegetables includes tomatoes, lettuce, onions and beets, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, radishes and cabbage. In some cases, the fungus of this disease is specially applied to the plant, for example, on grapes for Tokay wine, because the combination of rot on the berries forms a special real taste of Tokay. A favorable condition for the fungus is a rainy cold summer.

Gray rot on tomatoes looks like brown spots, which dry out after a while and the fruit rots. Healthy bushes very quickly become infected with the disease. To protect strawberries from gray rot, it should be removed in early spring, and it is better to burn all damaged and diseased leaves. The disease on strawberry bushes manifests itself in the form of gray-brown mycelium growing on the surface of infected tissues. Healthy bushes from infected berries are rapidly infected with rot.

The grape tissues in the affected areas become dead, their color becomes brown, later a fluffy coating appears. Spores appear on individual berries, they are lilac and brown. The most favorable time for the development of gray rot is hot and humid weather, and violation of the integrity of the peel also contributes to suppuration. If you plan to plant grape seedlings, you need to protect the grafting site. Rot can appear at any time of the year, so medicinal preparations should be applied in advance, before harvest.

On cucumbers, gray rot appears as shapeless gray spots, sometimes they have a yellow-brown tint. At the same time, the fruits are affected, so preventive measures should be taken to remove the diseased leaves of the plant. And also maintain optimal air humidity (in greenhouses).

The defeat of the gooseberry begins with the lower parts of the shoots, then the disease passes to the berries, which rot and fall off. It is necessary to remove and destroy infected stems and berries in a timely manner, in order to avoid crop loss and drying of the bushes. If gray rot gets on lettuce leaves, a gray coating forms on the surface and the plant falls down. Inside the head, the leaves rot.

Gray rot on apple trees leads to the drying of large areas of wood, the fruits affected by rot disappear, the rot is accompanied by an inconspicuous whitish coating. In order to prevent apple trees, it is recommended to feed them with special fertilizers during the growing season. Carrots can also become infected with gray mold, particularly during storage. Root crops begin to rot from the tip, then become covered with a gray felt coating.

Video “Biological preparations”

Fighting methods

The most common method of dealing with gray mold on strawberries is spraying with an iodine solution. A weak solution of 5 ml per 5 liters of water can destroy the rot pathogen. Also effective are the drugs Boxwood, Horus, Strobi, Falcon. To combat rot on tomatoes, the fungicides Fundazol, Acrobat, Bayleton are used.

From gray rot on grapes, drugs such as Cabrio-top, Fundazol, Topaz, etc. are used. For preventive purposes, fungicides such as Bordeaux mixture, Antrakol and Rex are perfect for cherries and gooseberries. For treatment, Arceride and Bayleton are needed. To combat rot on tomatoes, you need to feed the root system in time with a mixture of phosphorus and potassium. You can also pour a solution of ash under the root (300 grams per 10 liters).

Prevention for plants

So, from the conditions for the spread of rot, it should be said that the plants should be planted at a sufficient distance from each other, for good ventilation of the stems and access to the sun. Do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers, as they make the leaves soft and susceptible to disease.

If you use greenhouses on your site, make sure that the room is well ventilated. When processing plants, removing excess shoots, it is necessary to minimize the place of the wound in order to reduce the possibility of rot. This is done with a sharp knife on a dry sunny day.

If you notice signs of aphids on plants, treat them, most likely the plant will begin to rot. It is necessary to pre-treat the plants with preparations in order to destroy the causative agent of rot. To prevent rot from remaining for the winter, it is necessary to burn the remains of plants on which there were clear signs of rot. Try to prevent the reproduction of snails, ticks and slugs, they carry the causative agent of gray rot.

Video “Rot and methods of dealing with it”

This disease is dangerous for many types of plants and vegetables. To get rid of it once and for all, you just need to read the information in the following video.

Gray rot is a fungal disease caused by the action of a pathogen from the genus Botrytis cinerea. The peculiarity of the infection is that it affects only weakened areas of rose bushes that have mechanical damage.

It may seem that gray rot appears out of nowhere, like a bolt from the blue. In fact, the fungus is always located next to flowering shrubs, it gets to them through the remains of grass and cultivated plants, the pathogen also accumulates on the soil surface in the form of sclerotia or mycelium. As soon as favorable conditions arise for him, he immediately activates, absorbing plants one by one.

Note!

Gray rot is a disease not only of roses, but also of other flowers, as well as garden crops. More than 200 plant species are susceptible to this infection.

Reasons for the development of the disease

There can be many reasons for the activation of the pathogen, most of them are associated with violations of agricultural technology. Climatic conditions also naturally influence - the fungus massively infects plants in a cool, humid summer.

An infection appears when:

• air humidity is exceeded (more than 70%), the average daily temperature is within + 20-23 degrees. It is this climate that is the ideal habitat for a rapidly multiplying fungal colony;

By the way!

Below +3 degrees and above +30 degrees, the fungus does not die, but stops its development until better times.

• the roses are planted too densely. If the bushes are located too close to each other (leaves of neighboring plants are in contact), they are poorly ventilated, air and moisture stagnate. Condensation accumulates more often, which is “in hand” for the fungus;
• the soil lacks nutrients. Due to the lack of chemical elements necessary for the full development of plants, the immunity of roses weakens. Plants cannot fight the pathogen;
• plants are damaged. Due to poor-quality pruning, unhealed wounds remain on the sections, through which not only infections, but also various pests penetrate into the plant.

Fact!

Often the cause of the appearance of the fungus is an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

Symptoms

Due to excessive moisture, the ends of the stems and leaves, buds and pedicels are damaged in roses. This is where mold first forms. Slightly depressed dark spots appear on the edges of the leaves, which grow rapidly, spreading throughout the entire leaf plate. The same pattern is observed on young stems and inflorescences. Painful foci are covered with a "shaggy" light coating - fungal spores. Then, having dried up, black rounded bodies - sclerotia - begin to form on the moldy areas. Affected stems and leaves dry out and crumble.

As soon as the most vulnerable organs of the plant are attacked, previously healthy areas will begin to suffer. The buds die before they even open. The mushroom picker covers them completely, mummifying. If already opened flowers are affected by rot, then on the petals you can see a lot of whitish small spots, which darken over time, forming a mycelium. The flower quite quickly becomes completely covered with an ugly bloom, while the leaves turn yellow, shrivel and rot.

By the way!

It is believed that white and pink types of roses are most often affected.

How to cure the disease

If the infection was noticed in time, then there is every chance to save the roses from complete destruction. It is important to cut out all damaged areas and get rid of them, as well as create a dry warm climate for the plants. To do this, watering is completely removed for a while, and the earth is loosened for better aeration.

A good help in the fight against gray rot are biological agents that do not pose a danger to plants and humans, but at the same time protect roses quite well from pathogens. They are mainly used as a prophylaxis and at the initial stage of the disease.

Frequently used tools:

1. Phytosporin belongs to the group of systemic fungicides. The active ingredient of this remedy is beneficial bacteria, which, penetrating inside the plant, negatively affect the pathogenic fungus. For the treatment of roses, 1.5 grams of the substance is used. Treatment is carried out every two weeks.
2. PhytoDoctor - which is part of the hay stick, has a detrimental effect on many types of fungi. The tool is used mainly as a preventive measure. For the treatment of roses, 20 grams of the composition is usually taken per 10 liters of water.
3. Trichophyte is a concentrate containing a mixture of Trichoderma mushrooms. Analogue of preparations trichodermin and phytosporin. For horticultural crops, 200 grams of the drug are used, which are diluted in a bucket of water. Processing is carried out 2-3 times every 10 days.
4. Fundazol - the main active ingredient benomyl prevents the reproduction of the fungus. It is very effective at the first signs of the disease - foundationol can completely cure the plant in a few applications. For spraying flowering shrubs, 1 gram of powder is mixed in a small amount of water, and then the concentrate is diluted with another liter of water. The procedure is carried out 3-4 times until the bush is completely healed.
5. Planriz is a biological product based on soil bacteria. The bacteria Pseudomonas fluorescens, which form the basis of the drug, inhibit the development of pathogenic microorganisms that cause the development of many diseases. The treatment of roses during the growing season is carried out with a 0.5% solution of the drug every 12-14 days.
6. Mikosan - active substance - extract from the tinder fungus. Penetrating into the soft tissues of the plant, beneficial microorganisms activate the growth of enzymes that destroy the pathogen. For garden flowers, you will need to prepare a solution of 100 milliliters of a remedy and 3-4 liters of water.

Spraying with these preparations can be carried out repeatedly, with an interval of 7-9 days, until the white coating that has appeared completely disappears.

Note!

Biological preparations are used only in warm weather. At temperatures below +10 degrees, their effect is neutralized.

Chemical agents are connected only when biological preparations have failed. Most often summer residents use:

1. Teldor is a broad-spectrum drug. To process the flower garden, a solution is prepared from 8 grams of Teldor and 10 liters of water. Spraying is carried out three times per season, with an interval of 1.5-2 weeks.
2. Switch is a two-component preparation (in the composition of cyprodinil - 37%; fludioxonil - 25%), it has an inhibitory effect on the mycelium of the fungus. The solution is prepared from 2 grams of the product and 10 liters of water. It is permissible to carry out two treatments per season.
3. Hom - copper oxychloride affects the microorganism, disrupting its vital activity and neutralizing it. 30 grams of crystalline powder is diluted in a bucket of water. Spraying is carried out before and after flowering.
4. Horus is a modern pesticide aimed at combating fungal diseases. The substance cyprodinil inhibits the biosynthesis of the pathogen, disrupting its life cycle. To treat one hundred square meters of plantations, a solution is prepared from 3 grams of fungicide and 10 liters of water. The drug can be combined with other chemicals.
5. Kurzat is a highly effective contact fungicide. It has a fast and long-lasting effect. Depending on the degree of the course of the disease, to prepare the solution, you need from 30 to 60 grams of powder, which must be diluted with 10 liters of water. Up to four rose treatments can be carried out during the summer.

Additionally, with medicinal solutions, you can shed the soil under the bushes before sheltering for the winter, as well as in the spring, after the bushes are released. Simultaneously with the supply of fungicides to the plants, the bushes should be treated with the Silyplant silicon-containing preparation (for planned treatment, 50 milliliters of the drug per 1000 liters of water will be needed. To protect plants from fungus and pests, the concentration can be increased to 300 milliliters per 1000 liters).

If a fungal disease is caused by phosphorus, potassium, boron starvation, then the bushes are treated with complex compositions of nutrients. First, diseased areas are cut off from the plants, and the remaining shoots and buds are sprayed with one of these universal fertilizers:

• agricola aqua - for flowering plants, it is necessary to prepare a solution of 5 milliliters and 2 liters of water. Roses are processed every 14 days;
• microvit standard t - the affected rose bushes are sprayed at intervals of 12-14 days with a working composition of 1 milliliter of fertilizer mixed with 10 liters of water;
• fertika crystal flower - once every 7 days, spraying with a broad-spectrum agent is carried out. To prepare a useful solution, 10 grams of the drug is diluted in a bucket of water.

In parallel, organic and mineral compounds are introduced into the soil. You can use both universal and specialized ones, for example, Omu for Roses.

Of the traditional remedies, Bordeaux liquid is still popular - a 1% solution is used to spray heavily affected bushes every two weeks.

In order to avoid the appearance of fungal infections on roses, gardeners recommend using an ash-water solution (300 grams of ash per 10 liters of water).

Whey solution protects rose bushes well (1 liter of dairy product per 10 liters of water). After spraying, a film is formed that prevents the penetration of the fungus into the plant.

Prevention measures

Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely get rid of the causative agent of infection, but it is quite possible to create conditions that will restrain the reproduction of the fungus. Prevention must be done continuously throughout the year.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, it is necessary to clean the rose garden from plant debris, old foliage, since they are often carriers of all kinds of infections.

Before the plants enter the vegetative stage, sanitary pruning should be carried out, removing all damaged areas. Slices must be lubricated with garden pitch or crushed coal.

For the prevention of plants, it is necessary to treat with copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. The first processing falls on mid-April. Then the procedure can be carried out at the end of May and mid-July.

During the winter, most of the nutrients are washed out of the soil, so the first dressing should be applied in early spring with a complex mineral fertilizer. For this purpose, ammophos, azofoska are suitable. From organic matter, rotted manure is used. Useful fertilizer is prepared in this way: 10 kilograms of manure is poured with water and allowed to brew for 10 days. The prepared solution fertilizes the areas under the bushes. It will not be superfluous to “cover” roses with humus before wintering.

In autumn, the ground in the flower garden must be thoroughly cleaned of plant residues, the soil should be loosened, and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be introduced in order for the roses to overwinter better.

Basics for the normal life of roses:

1. Often roses get sick due to a dysfunctional neighborhood. It is known that grapes, strawberries, pumpkins, fruit and berry bushes suffer from the same diseases as flowers. In order to avoid getting fungus on roses, they are planted away from such crops.
2. Rots appear in thickened plantings. Therefore, bushes should not be placed too close to each other. The optimal distance is 50-60 centimeters.
3. The appearance of mold on roses can provoke watering in the late evening. The foliage does not have time to dry, the pathogen is activated, and the process of decay begins. Therefore, watering is more rational to carry out in the early morning or after lunch. You need to pour water under the root, without affecting the green parts of the plant. Do not allow moisture to accumulate at the base of the bush.
4. To maintain immunity in roses, they need to be regularly treated with traditional means, harmless to humans, but detrimental to fungi: soap and soda solution, potassium permanganate, garlic infusion, slurry.
5. It should be remembered that any plant will develop healthy and strong only in nutritious soil, therefore, it is necessary to correctly apply fertilizers, depending on the needs of the flowers at a particular vegetative stage. Roses require nitrogen in spring, potassium in summer, and phosphorus in autumn.
6. Winter shelter should be warm, but at the same time let in fresh air. Only with good ventilation will roses be able to survive the winter-spring temperature fluctuations.

Note!

It is advisable to plant roses in close proximity to calendula, marigolds, mustard, nasturtium. These plants secrete phytoncides - substances that suppress the viability of fungal pathogens.

Pro Tips:

• Feed your roses with a long-lasting fertilizer. First, they save money, time and effort. Secondly, such dressings contain the optimal amount of nutrients that will evenly saturate the soil and plants. In this case, the roses will not experience either hunger or overdose;
• roses grow healthy and strong in light, well-aerated soil with a weak alkaline reaction. Therefore, it is best to dig up the earth in the rose garden every year in spring, make it loose with compost, straw or peat;
• mulch made from walnut shells, needles, and tree bark will help to avoid the penetration of diseases into the soil. However, the land must be completely cleared of weeds;
• if buds appeared on the bushes, and the weather does not favor, then it would be more rational to thin out the flower stalks, freeing the plant's strength to maintain viability in adverse conditions;
• if the roses were affected by rot, then most likely all neighboring plants also managed to become infected. Therefore, it is necessary to exterminate the pathogen immediately in the entire garden, processing all crops;
• you can’t plant roses next to strawberries, since it is gray rot that “chooses” it for its meal and only then moves on to neighboring plantings;
• if it rains for many days, then an awning stretched over roses will help reduce humidity. Or you can put a plastic bag on the bushes until the weather clears up.

fungus resistant varieties

Through the efforts of breeders today, many varieties of roses have appeared that can resist fungal infections. Most often these are hybrids of different types of culture.

Fact!

You can determine the degree of stability of a rose of a particular variety by the leaves: if they are dense, glossy with a slight wax coating, then this is a stable flower. It's all about the wax - it prevents the penetration of the pathogen into the plant.

The best varieties:

• hybrid tea - Eliza, Happy Day, Gand Amor;
• floribunda - Fortuna, Cherry Gold, Black Forest;
• scrubs - Postillion, Hercules;
• climbing - New Down, Jasmine, Golden Gate;
• ground cover and miniature roses - Larisa, Topolina, Weg Der Schein.

Note!

There are no varieties that are absolutely disease resistant. Even those varieties that are classified as such lose this quality by the fifth year of life. This is due to the ability of infectious agents to adapt to environmental conditions and the flower organism.

Conclusion

Gray rot is an insidious infection that has the ability to spread at lightning speed through the rose garden. If no action is taken, the disease will "eat" all flowering shrubs in 7-10 days. The development of the pathogen can be avoided only by systematic agrotechnical measures that will avoid not only the appearance of rot, but also other dangerous diseases and harmful insects.

Gray rot disease affects a huge number of plants. It can affect cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and garlic, lettuce, strawberries, grapes, gooseberries, currants and other crops. Without treatment, gray rot spreads through the garden at lightning speed. If you do not use effective methods to combat gray rot, you can lose not only the crop, but also the plants themselves.

Affected leaves, stems and fruits are covered with brown softening spots, on which a mossy coating of spores appears.

At the initial stage of the disease, it is necessary to lubricate the affected areas of plants with gruel prepared from lime and water.

A gray fluffy coating forms on the surface of rotten strawberries, which crumbles into dust when touched. The most susceptible to the disease are strawberries located close to the soil. Brownish spots form on the stalks, which combine to form a ring on the stalk, which leads to its drying.

Look at the photo: gray rot on the vine affects all above-ground parts. The leaves of the grapes dry up, and a gray coating forms on the clusters of berries.

Brown leaf spot appears on the currant. In white currants, wood can also be affected, on which lumps of mold become noticeable.

On gooseberries, gray rot affects the lower part of the shoots.

A thick gray coating appears on lettuce leaves, the plant wilts. The leaves are starting to rot.

Carrot roots are affected by gray rot mainly during storage. A gray coating forms on them, the roots gradually rot.

Pay attention to the photo, what gray rot of cucumbers looks like: a piebald coating appears on the affected fruits.

On the tomato, rotting spots form on the stems, leaves and fruits.

In onions and garlic, the rotting process begins with the neck, and then moves on to other parts of the bulb.

Wintering of the causative agent of gray rot takes place on mummified fruits and infected branches.

Gray rot spreads in summer by spores carried by wind and rainwater. The disease spreads especially rapidly in years with rainy and cool summers.

Methods of dealing with the disease gray rot

In the process of how to deal with gray rot, it is necessary to regularly collect and destroy the affected fruits, remove dead branches and leaves. It is important to observe the water and light regime when growing plants, and to feed them in a timely manner.

It is important not only to carry out the treatment of gray rot, but also preventive measures to combat insects.

The disease often occurs in storage facilities where disinfection is not carried out.

To reduce the damage to plants by gray rot, planting should not be thickened.

It is necessary to carry out timely fertilization of crops, remove leaves and fruits affected by gray rot.

Rot - a group of diseases that are manifested by browning and decay of individual parts or the whole plant. They are caused mainly by fungi, but bacterial rot, or bacterioses, also appear. Conventionally, rot can be divided into rot of the root system, trunks and branches, leaves, berries and fruits.

ROOT ROT

There is browning and decay of the lateral and central roots of plants.

They are most often caused by pathogenic microorganisms that persist on plant residues in the soil.

Soil pathogens include fungi that cause rots such as fusarium, verticillium, white sclerotal, gray, late blight, as well as bacteria that cause bacterial rot.

The infection penetrates the root system through mechanical damage, damage by soil pests and with planting material grown from rotted cuttings and seeds.

1. Fusarium and verticillium rot dangerous because the mycelium of the fungus-causative agent penetrates into the vascular system, fills it, and from the roots moves up the stem to the leaves and flowers. In herbaceous plants, such as strawberries, fusarium (photo 1a) and verticillium (photo 16) rot cause rotting of the root system and browning and death of the aerial part of the bushes.

In woody shrubs (currants, gooseberries), the root system and vessels of the stems are affected, which is manifested by tracheomycosis wilt, when nutrients from the roots do not reach the growing shoots and leaves. In this case, the affected individual branches and whole plants suddenly wither and dry out. On the affected roots, sections of cuts, sections of the central veins of the leaves, a whitish coating of mycelium of the fungus develops.

2. Late blight rot Recently, it has been constantly found on strawberries and is distributed with imported planting material. Affected bushes wither (photo 2a), black spots appear on the leaves (photo 26), petioles and growth points gradually turn black. A dense dark mycelium develops on the affected tissues, which can be seen even after overwintering (photo 2c).

3. Gray rot affects growth points, growing stems, leaves, fruits (photo For) strawberries. In some years, entire plantations of this crop die from the spread of gray rot.

After the snow melts, the plants have a characteristic appearance (photo 36), black sclerotia are visible - the fruiting bodies of the fungus. With thickened plantings, bushes of currants, gooseberries, wild roses and roses also suffer greatly from gray rot.

The causative agents of all these rots are low-temperature pathogens, they actively develop under the snow cover when the plants are at rest.

From this in the spring we observe that the leaves on the strawberry bushes are all brown, dry, and in some places fruiting bodies have already been formed on them - sclerotia (photo 36), in which the fungus remains for many years. Tree and shrub seedlings are most affected by root rot in nurseries, in thickened plantings, when a high background of soil infection is observed in the soil.

4. Peripheral wood rot, or butt rot(butt - the lower extended end of the tree trunk). It is caused by the fungus mushroom (photo 4). Under the bark of the roots and the base of the trunks, it forms a grid of black flat rhizomorph cords, with the help of which it actively spreads from plant to plant. The appearance of fruiting bodies of everyone's favorite edible mushroom in the garden is a symptom of big problems for woody plants.

STEM ROT

5. Rots caused by tinder fungus.

The appearance of tinder fungi of various shapes, sizes, and colors of leathery fruiting bodies is a sign of damage to tree wood by rot (photo 5).

6. non-infectious rot. When pruning trees, when carrying out phytosanitary cleaning of dried and broken branches and skeletal branches, stumps and saw cuts often remain unpainted with paint. Bare wood dries up, cracks, dies off, under the influence of rain and snow begins to rot, the wood is destroyed without the participation of a fungal infection (photo 6).

7. Gray rot. Often affects unripened shoots of weakened shrubs after overwintering (photo 7a). An example is young bushes of currants, raspberries, wild roses, grape stalks (photo 76).

8. penicillium rot. Penicillium rot is also common on grape stems (photo 8). Sporulation develops as bluish-green or olive-colored pads. Spores quickly re-infect neighboring berries and young shoots.

9. shrinkage(photo 9) of trunks and skeletal branches often causes bacterial necrosis of the bark, or bacterial cancer, in which the wood of boles and branches rots and a sharp sour smell of fermentation appears.

10. Takes a special place monilial stone burn, which manifests itself in some years not only by the drying of skeletal branches, but often leads to the rapid death of entire trees. The spread of the disease begins in the spring with browning and drying of flowers, ovaries, fruit twigs, young leaves also turn brown, which do not fall off for a long time (photo 10). A grayish coating of mycelium develops on the affected bark and leaves.

LEAF ROT

11. Gray rot. It appears on the leaves as brown zonal spots, the necrotic tissues of which crack and fall out in hot weather, and at high humidity a smoky-gray mycelium of the fungus forms on them.

They are caused by the fungus that causes widespread gray rot (photo 11a - browning and drying of currant leaves affected by gray rot; photo 11b - gray rot of a grape leaf; photo Non-gray rot of berries and raspberry leaves).

ROTT OF BERRIES AND FRUITS

They can be caused by both gray rot, penicillinous rot, and monilial rot.

12. Monilial rot also called fruit rot. It affects almost all crops and the pathogen fungus is the same for all (photo 12a - the beginning of the appearance of apricot fruit rot; photo 12b - hazel fruit rot; 12c - quince fruit rot; 12d - apple tree fruit rot). On the surface of decaying berries and fruits, numerous light-brown sporulation pads develop, located in concentric circles (photo 12d). The infection persists in affected or mummified berries and fruits (photo 12e), as well as in the tissues of one-year-old shoots with mycelium.

13. Black is widespread on strawberries. berry rot, or rhizopus, which manifests itself in hot weather with high humidity on overripe berries (photo 13).

HOW TO FIGHT ROT - CONTROL MEASURES

1. Use of healthy planting material, compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, timely culling of affected plants with a clod of earth, collection and disposal of mummified fruits and carrion.

2. In industrial cultivation against root rot, preventive and eradicating sprayings are carried out with the systemic fungicide Fundazol at a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per 10 l of water).

3. Against gray rot on strawberries during the budding period, spraying with bacterial preparations Alirin-B, Planriz is carried out. At the beginning of tying berries, bushes can be dusted with fluffy lime (15-20 g per bush).

4. Against late blight rot, honey agaric fungus, stem rot and fruit rot, preventive spraying is carried out with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (HOM, Abiga-Peak) when buds open and immediately after flowering crops. With a strong spread of diseases, spraying is repeated in the fall, after harvesting, with the same preparations.

Rot and types of rot - photo

Photo and text - phytopathologist L. TREYVAS