Saw cleaver. Universal combat cleaver Description and features

Type- weapon;

Damage – 50;

Where to look- do it yourself;

Foldable- No.

Description and features

Well, what can you say about a cleaver that will deal 50 units of damage, created in the Tinkers Construct mod? This is a wonderful indicator that covers the fact that with this cleaver you get a level 3 Fatigue effect and deal blows much slower than usual, and such damage can significantly simplify your existence and fight against malicious pests - hostile mobs, and even in the PVP arena. you can wave, although in this case a lethal rapier is still a better solution, since armor is essentially not a very serious hindrance to it. So, let's figure out how you can make such a miracle cleaver:

First, let's assemble a regular cleaver:

For assembly you will need:

A large manulin blade of a sword, and this is made by casting manulin melted in a smelter into a special mold;
Paper plate;
Two strong paper rods.

When creating this weapon, we received 3 slots for modification, and also due to 3 paper parts + 3 more slots for modification, that is, now there are 6 of them.

To add three more slots we go to the Tool Forge, and right-click on it, going into their interface. You will see approximately the following (the interface of the tool station is shown here, however, in the forge everything will be the same, only some weapons and tools will be added):

In cell 2 you place a cleaver, and in cells pos. 1 modifiers in turn, which you see below (there are 3 modifiers):

Now there are as many as 9 total slots for modifications.

We begin sharpening the item and use quartz blocks for this. You will need a lot of them - 160 blocks of quartz, so you will have to work hard in the Nether, collecting this material, so when collecting it is better to use a pickaxe with the “Luck” effect (this can be obtained by enchanting or simply creating such a pickaxe, because in Tinkers Construct you can do this too )

Having placed the quartz blocks in cells position 1, we place the cleaver in cell 2. We see in cell position 3 a cleaver with already changed characteristics. We take the cleaver from cell 3 and place it again in cell position 2. You will have to repeat this until all 160 blocks are gone, that is, taking into account the fact that there are 160 blocks, you will need 80 movements, however, look what awaits you result:

50 units of damage is no joke, so with such a weapon you will feel comfortable in almost any fight.

Knives have been used by mankind since ancient times. They were used as tools or as weapons. In modern society, the purpose of such products has remained virtually unchanged. Even the most ordinary cleaver knife is used today as a survival tool. However, we should not forget that at one time this type of similar product was used as a formidable weapon.

Why is it better to choose a cleaver?

It should immediately be noted that each specific job requires a separate tool. That is why, throughout the history of mankind, a huge number of different knives have been invented, which differ in their shape, length and the presence of additional elements. If we talk about camping conditions or survival, then it is necessary to have a universal tool that is made of high-quality steel, is easy to sharpen, has a certain thickness and is very convenient to carry. It is these parameters that the cleaver knife meets.

General characteristics

This one is quite large in size. It can be classified as a bladed weapon, which can not only chop, but also stab. A typical cleaver knife has a length from 20 to 70 centimeters. At the same time, the width of its blade is 4-5 cm. These models are usually characterized by one-sided sharpening, although sometimes you can find other product options.

Some cleavers are equipped with a hand protection device. Round or cross-shaped guards are attached to them, and sometimes even hilts with complete closure of the hand. However, for a survivalist or tourist, the presence of such an element is not necessary.

Story

It is officially believed that the cleaver knife, the photo of which is simply terrifying, appeared in the first half of the 18th century. However, many historians disagree with this. The fact is that the weapon, which was smaller in size than an ordinary sword, but at the same time larger than a knife, has been known to mankind since ancient times. It was used by pirates for fighting in the hold, used in some fencing schools back in the 15th century, and even armed soldiers in China. For hunters, such a product became generally indispensable, since it could be used to cut up an animal carcass and even chop branches for a fire.

In the middle of the 18th century, the cleaver-knife was officially put into service with the Russian army. It was there that it acquired its name, since it was convenient to trim logs with its help. This knife was used in almost all branches of the military and was the most common.

Application area

The versatility of the design allows you to both cut or chop with a knife, and stab. With this in mind, this product is perfect for a hike. They can be used to chop branches, clear a path, be used for hunting, butcher game, and even be used as a shovel, as the width of the blade allows.

Also, such a product is excellent for carrying out certain operations in cooking. It usually has a name. Why it is slightly modernized by widening the blade and making it a little shorter. This design is almost irreplaceable when cutting large fish or when working with animal carcasses. In Chinese cuisine, very often this type of knife is considered universal.

Self-production

This will be followed by a story about how to make it. At the same time, it is immediately worth clarifying that this process is selected in such a way as to try to optimize costs, simplify work and at the same time obtain a high-quality product.

Design selection

You can often find a cleaver knife, the photo of which shows that on the back of the blade it has a saw-shaped notch. This model was most often used in sapper workshops or it was supposed to carry out certain work with wood or other available materials. Currently, such an add-on is not required. The saw is much easier to replace with modern string systems.

In fact, each user determines the appearance and shape of the knife for himself, focusing on personal needs. The main thing is that the product is comfortable, practical and durable. This applies to both the thickness of the blade and its width.

Selection of materials

It’s worth noting right away that a typical Transbaikal hunter’s cleaver knife is made of steel, which contains a small amount of carbon. The fact is that modern products usually focus on such a parameter as hardness. In this case, the blade becomes very sharp and dulls very slowly. However, if you need to be outdoors for a long time and use the knife as much as possible, then such grades of steel are not suitable. They are very difficult to sharpen and require a lot of effort.

It is much easier to choose a steel that is straightened using the most ordinary stone, which is simply irreplaceable in wild conditions. It is these types of knives that are valued by practical hunters who prefer not to take extra cargo with them and do not intend to spend a lot of time working with the tool.

It is believed that the blade from a mechanical saw is best suited for creating a cleaver. However, this opinion is erroneous, since the product will be too soft and it will not be possible to perform certain operations. For a cleaver, steel grade 95X18 is suitable. The result will be a product that can be used even as a shovel, since it will withstand even high breaking pressure.

Blank

Let's look at what is needed to make a cleaver blank:

To make it we need a strip of steel with dimensions corresponding to the chosen shape. The thickness of the workpiece is determined independently. Some people think that this will require 8 mm metal, although 6 mm will be quite sufficient.
First, we cut out a mock-up of a blade with a handle from paper. At the same time, it is very important to maintain all dimensions by adding 2-3 mm along the contour.
Next, they paste the layout onto it, trying to place it so that there is less trimming work. To do this, you should use one edge of the strip as the edge of the workpiece.
The next step is to trim the metal according to the glued template. In this case, it is best to use sandpaper.
Next, the blade is lowered, but without making an edge. At the same moment, holes are drilled to fix the handle and attach the lanyard.
The workpiece is ready for hardening.

Hardening

Typically, large cleaver knives are hardened in a special way, forming different hardness zones. This process requires a certain skill and the availability of appropriate equipment. Some people try to complete this process on their own, using improvised means, but the results are mediocre. Therefore, it is best to entrust this process to a specialist.

A true craftsman will harden the edge of the blade while leaving the area near the handle softer. A professionally hardened knife will sharpen well, cut well and not break when exposed to bending. Since ancient times, it was believed that this process is the main one, since it gives the blade certain properties and qualities. It is important to remember that each grade of steel has its own temperature regimes for both heating and cooling.

Typically, thermal therapists charge relatively little for their services. However, the skill level of these specialists is very different. That is why it is very important to describe the desired result in detail or rely on the recommendations of professionals. When processed correctly, the finished product should have a certain strength in specific places. It is checked with a special device, which is usually available in all thermal workshops.

Finishing

How is the blade polished?

After the workpiece has come from hardening, it should be turned into a full-fledged product. To do this, the metal is first treated with sandpaper to remove scale or plaque.
It is worth noting that a standard Magadan hunter’s cleaver knife is usually not polished. Shiny products reflect sunlight well and can reveal a person’s location. Also, professional hunters consider such designs to be impractical. Therefore, the product is left in rough external processing.
Next, all dimensions are adjusted to the required parameters and the descent is reduced to the very cutting edge. In fact, you should get a full-fledged knife, but only without appropriate sharpening. It is not done so that the craftsman does not get injured when creating the handle.

Handle

This process depends almost entirely on the personal preferences of the master. However, this article discusses the most optimal and simplest method in which a cleaver knife is created, which means we will make the handle elementary.

First we choose the wood. Any type of hardwood is suitable for this. However, the material must be dry and ready for processing.
First of all, we grind out the overlays. Their outer part can only be partially processed, but the inner surface is made perfectly smooth.
The pads are fixed to the knife handle with glue. Before this, the locations of the holes are marked on them. This is necessary for the subsequent installation of rivets.
At the next stage, we take a drill whose diameter matches the holes on the knife itself. With its help we drill through the handle.
Next, you need to take a drill with a large diameter and make shallow grooves in the holes. It is in them that the rivet head will be hidden. Therefore, the depth is chosen in accordance with the dimensions of the future handle.
At the next stage, the wooden overlays are sanded down to almost the required size.
Next, take a copper wire with a diameter equal to the hole in the handle. Taking this into account, all dimensions should be agreed upon in advance. The wire is heated over a fire until red-hot and allowed to cool. This will make the copper soft and malleable.
The wire is inserted into the holes of the handle and cut so that only small tips protrude onto the surface.
Next, you need to place the product on a metal surface and rivet it by striking the protruding ends of the wire with a hammer. As a result, it should fit tightly into the grooves made and secure the linings well.
At the final stage, the handle is sanded using different grain fractions. Then it is polished.

When the knife is finished, it is worth making the appropriate sheath for it. For each hunter or tourist, such an accessory is selected individually, depending on personal preferences or individual ease of carrying. There are many different methods and technologies for their manufacture, so this process must be described separately.

Conclusion

A knife of this shape is very convenient and practical. It is indispensable for long hikes or hunting. This is why many professionals choose it, because this model is universal. At the same time, it is very easy to manufacture and maintain, especially if you choose the right type of steel.

This cleaver was designed and manufactured for use on hikes. It will be useful for cutting branches, or cutting out some bushes, tree branches, etc.

What you need

Material:

Old wood saw.
Rope (2.5-3 m.).

Tool:

Bulgarian.
Ruler.
Pencils.
Sandpaper. etc.

Let's start making a cleaver

To begin with, I drew this simple drawing of the future cleaver, which anyone can make for themselves. Now I will clearly show you how to do this. The thickness of the metal can be thicker, but I haven’t found one.

For example, the length of the handle should be the length of your eight fingers.

The width of the handle should correspond to the thickness of two fingers.

The length of the blade, from the tip to the beginning of the handle, should be the length of your clenched fist to your elbow.

The width from the beginning of the rounding to the tip should be 10 cm, the size of your palm.

At the end of the handle we make a protrusion like the one in the photo.

And we begin to cut with a grinder according to our drawing, observing safety precautions.

As a result, we got something like this, almost looking like a cleaver.

From our workpiece we remove all the burrs along the entire contour, right down to the small protrusions.

I put a thicker disc on the grinder and cleaned the cleaver on one side and the other. This is best done using a grinding machine.

In the end, this is what should happen.

Let's move on almost to the main process, this is SHARPENING. You need to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees, on one side and the other. This is best done using a special machine.

Here's what I got. Don't judge strictly, I'm doing this for the first time.

You need to sharpen NOT all the way to the handle, but only after retreating 2 cm, as in the photo.

I took fine sandpaper and finally cleaned our cleaver, almost to a shine. You can also polish it to an elegant shine on a special machine.

Somehow this is how it should work out.

As a handle, I use a small piece of cord, two meters long.

Here is the process of winding the cord around the handle. First, let's fold it like this, as in the photo, this one is needed to thicken the handle.

On the other hand, we do the same thing; at the end of the handle a loop like the one in the photo should form.

We begin to wind the cord, turn to turn, you can first moisten the cord itself, and when it dries it will seem to tighten.

When you have already wound the cord, we thread it through the loop and make one turn.

Hello! Today I would like to talk about how to make a good and reliable cleaver - a formidable and terrible weapon of a cutting nature. The cleaver is especially popular among all sorts of heroes; they usually use it to deal with zombies or some other creatures when the cartridges in the horn have run out... but this is lyrics. Let's move on directly to manufacturing.

First, the cleaver itself

Its handle is wrapped in genuine leather, which gives it a special grip comfort; it just begs to be held in your hands. The weight of the cleaver is 800 grams, the width of the blade is about 7.5 cm, the length is 29 cm, the handle is 13 cm, the thickness of the blade is 4 mm.

I made it from carbon steel, or more specifically, from a sawmill circular disk (diameter - a little less than a meter). Unfortunately, I didn’t film the process itself, because... I didn’t even think about writing articles back then.

First, I came up with the shape of the future cleaver, choosing from several options (there was an option without a bevel of the butt to the tip, but I didn’t like it too much). Then at the dacha from. To do this, I had to kill two 125-diameter disks with a thickness of 1 mm (in my opinion, cutting with this disk is more accurate and economical). Further, all work was carried out with a grinder with different attachments. It took a long time in the workshop to clean the workpiece from rust. Actually, the numerous spots and specks that give the blade a peculiar “antique” appearance are traces of this rust. I cleaned it with a cleaning disk, but I don’t recommend it for the future - I was tired of removing the holes later. It’s better to sweat longer with the 40th petal. Using the same disk, I selected all the curves of the contour, the heel of the blade and the finger rest on the butt, and worked out the slopes. It is important here not to overheat the steel. If yellow streaks appear, it means the steel has begun to temper and it’s time to cool it. If this is not done, the blade will be bad. Next is sanding.

Consistently changing first the 40th petal disk, then the Velcro attachments 40 - 240 - 480 numbers. Here it is even easier to overheat the blade than when turning, and therefore the disk must move quite quickly along the surface of the blade. When the surface was in a completely satisfactory condition, I carried out a partial tempering of the steel in order to prevent the handle from breaking off from the blade in the event of extreme bending load (anything can happen in life). I released the handle to a gray-violet color (see the article about heat treatment), the butt to a blue-red color, which turned into yellow towards the middle of the blade, and did not release the triggers at all. Let me remind you that in heat treatment there is a “shirt effect”, i.e. the surface changes its properties from surface to core at a speed of about 1-2 mm per minute. Those. the surface of the cleaver turned out to be somewhat softer than the core, because I did not keep it for the required time in order to avoid heating something that does not need to be heated (iron is a heat-conducting thing). This one is almost ideal, although here it will not manifest itself too much, and it is unknown when it will reach the vacation zone...

Using the same 480-grit sandpaper, we remove thermal stains and sharpen the edge. Here again it is important not to overheat! Although overheated parts will quickly wear down and grind down to hard metal, this will not improve the contour of the blade.

Now let's get started. I wanted it to turn out not mirror polished (it would spoil anyway, and the shine makes me sick), but slightly corroded, but well cleaned. To do this, you need to add traces of lighter corrosion to the existing large sinks. You can, of course, put the workpiece in a bucket of water, but you can also speed up the process. We take a 12-volt power supply, copper, sea salt from the store and alcohol. We will need very little solution. Pour water into a glass 5/6 full, add excess salt there so that there is a supply of reagent, so to speak, the rest is alcohol, which will need to be added a little at a time during the process. We connect the cleaver to +, the copper to -, apply the solution to the surface and touch it with copper. Please note that the copper itself does not touch the cleaver, otherwise there will be a short circuit and nothing will come of it. Then it all depends on what you need. To achieve clearly visible stains, it took me an hour on both sides. The key here is patience. As slag accumulates (a snot-like brown-dark green mass, which is generally harmless Fe(OH)2 - Fe(OH)3), you need to rinse the blade with cold water, but do not clean off what remains.

Here are the effects:

At the very end we clean it with 1000-grit sandpaper and then lightly with GOI paste.

Now the hilt

Here in the photo you can see the chamfers on the ends of the cleaver. Don’t forget to do them - this will only give the product a more civilized look and eliminate “cutting corners” that are not very pleasant.

The handle lining is made from a regular car tire. Carefully cut out the shape, correct any protrusions, round the corners for convenience. I glued them with 88-glue using clamps and let them sit for a day. Next is wrapping with fabric. For what? Cutting and shaping the handle using only pads is almost impossible. With fabric we can thicken it in some places, and make sharp transitions smoother in others. Here the noticeable thickening closer to the top of the handle is formed precisely by the dense winding. It also provides more reliable fastening of the pads in the tail. The fabric is well saturated with glue, and then the skin is immediately wrapped and glued on top of it. The ends of the handle are additionally glued with second glue for reliability and hardness (fabric impregnated with this glue becomes similar to PCB). Any holes and cavities are filled with either glue or, better, polyethylene thermal adhesive. The joints of glue and metal are additionally filled with the same second glue to eliminate corrosion of the handle under the pads.

On the pommel I made a steel ring for a lanyard, which I plan to weave or sew from a belt in the future. Ring from a thick spring. All that remains is to finally sharpen and thread the blades to a knife sharpness.

Well, our cleaver is ready. You can go for firewood or in search of zombies... by the way, about him. He chops a three-finger-thick stick effortlessly (if you hit it obliquely), he snatches very decent pieces from thicker trunks after the second blow, and stabs well. The rounded part of the blade cuts especially well. This device does not count, because its tip angle is more than 70 degrees. but cutting something off for them...without any problems. But this is a question of application, and here everyone decides for themselves. Our task is completed: the sword of the 21st century is ready.