Gas burners: mini for soldering, metalworking and forging, heating, roofing. How to make a homemade gas torch for soldering Homemade miniature gas torch

For DIY soldering? At home, it often becomes necessary to solder metal parts yourself. Strictly speaking, the entire procedure for performing this work is simple. But very often a situation arises when a gas burner is not at hand. What to do? You can, of course, quickly go to a special store and buy everything you need. But you can make the device yourself.

Soldering using a gas torch is considered to be of very high quality and quite simple.

Making a homemade propane burner with your own hands is quite quick. Of course, in terms of power, a homemade device will be weaker than its industrial counterpart. Soldering large structures with its help will not work, but minor repairs and simple types of work can be performed with its help.

What materials and tools will be required?

brass pipes;
brass blanks that will be needed to make dividers and nozzles;
plates made of material resistant to high temperatures (if they are not available, you can take wooden blocks);
vice;
drill;
sealant (FUM tape or silicone sealant);
gearbox;
connecting hoses.

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Stages of work on manufacturing the device

Soldering with a gas torch must be done extremely carefully, at a maximum temperature of 700 degrees.

First you need to make a handle and a nozzle.

To do this, you need to attach a handle to the brass tube. As a consumable, you can use a handle from an old soldering iron. If you don’t have one, then a wooden block will do just fine. You need to drill a hole in a wooden block, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the tube. After this, you need to attach the product to the tube. This will require epoxy resin or silicone. At the last stage, the device is given the most compact shape; the handle should fit comfortably in the hand.

Manufacturing the nozzle is the most critical stage. The most preferred nozzle size is approximately 0.1 mm. However, using home tools, it is almost impossible to achieve such accuracy. For this reason, most often it is made a little wider, and the edges are adjusted to match the desired size. This work must be done very carefully; this stage will take a lot of time.

It is most convenient to use a vice. Therefore, the workpiece is secured in a vice and then struck with a hammer. The blows must be applied vertically, pulling them slightly towards the central part of the workpiece.

It should be taken into account that all work is performed in a circular direction. This is important to ensure that there are no deviations in the gas supply.

After the embossing is completed, the nozzle head is sanded with fine-grit sandpaper. A thread is cut from the back of the nozzle, which is needed to make the connection to the tube.

The most common method of connecting the nozzle to the tube is soldering. This method has a small but significant drawback. If repairs or replacement of parts are necessary, this will be extremely difficult to do.

This completes the production of the propane torch. In order to start working with it, you just need to connect all the parts, connect the gas cylinder and light the burner.

But then some difficulties may begin. Because there will be a need to adjust the gas flow. If you do not improve the flame regulation, then the only way is to adjust it using a tap installed on the gas cylinder. However, with this method it will not be possible to achieve maximum flame power. What can be done? Retrofit the burner.

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Burner retrofitting

As additional regulators, you will need a tap and a divider. Moreover, you can install the tap on the burner itself or on the tube that is connected to it.

The most comfortable position is close to the handle (2-4 cm above the handle is enough). The faucet can be “borrowed” from an old autogen. It is fixed to the tube directly at the connection point. Silicone or FUM tape is used as a sealant.

To make a divider you will need brass. The best choice for this is a cylindrical workpiece, which has a hole for the supply tube, as well as a parallel hole with a smaller diameter.

When mounting on a tube, it is necessary that the edges of the workpiece are located at a distance of 2-3 mm forward with respect to the edges of the nozzle.

This design will allow simultaneous solution of two problems: a protective function (side wind will not blow out the flame), the flow of oxygen will be stable.

It can be made simpler. This design is quite complex, so the divider can be somewhat simplified. To do this, you can use a brass tube, which has a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the tube.

The attachment is made to the tube in parallel. With this design, the flow of air will occur due to the fact that an area of lower pressure will form at the outlet of the gas nozzle, therefore, according to the laws of physics, air will be directed to this part of the structure.

Based on the principle of operation, the homemade product can be compared to the primus used by tourists. The only difference is the size and type of fuel. In this case, there is no need to create excess pressure; it is already in the gas cylinder. To operate a gas burner you will need propane or a mixture of propane and butane. Making a burner yourself is not difficult. If you make it this way, it will be durable, reliable and will serve you for a very long time.

Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating appliances. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?

The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors, which are pushed out under the action of compressed air. This effect is achieved by forcing air into the burner fuel tank.

What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?

The oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. The oil burns with the formation of a large amount of soot and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.

In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.

Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.

How to make a burner for mining yourself

For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.

The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wound around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.

The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
the presence of impurities in the fuel;
simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.

Flaws:

difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.

There must be a powder or salt chemical fire extinguisher in the boiler room!

DIY Babington burner

You can assemble the burner yourself from simple components; for this you will need:

- A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects of a similar configuration, for example, a spherical brass door handle, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.

Metal tube for supplying compressed air from the compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal threads.
A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.

Preparing burner components for assembly

1. The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in a spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power, there is no need to expand the hole - this will lead to larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.

Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:

1. The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
2. It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.

Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. The adapters are made of plugs with drilled holes into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.

The housing can also be made from a tee, in which the air duct is inserted into the upper part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.

The fuel path is made of a copper tube, one end of which is wound around the nozzle three times, and then led through a plug adapter into the housing at the top. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, a coarse strainer is installed and the other end of the pipe is inserted into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.

An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.

Video - burner assembly diagram:

Preparing fuel for the burner

Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive waste with a large number of foreign inclusions is filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.

When using edible vegetable oils, such as deep frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are sufficiently fluid at normal temperatures, so they can be heated in the tank only when the burner is started. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.

Security measures

floors and walls made of flammable materials are sheathed with metal or asbestos sheets;
fuel reserves are stored at a safe distance;
oil leaks must be removed in a timely manner;
electrical elements of the installation must be carefully insulated to avoid sparking in the oil spray area;
The burner must be placed out of reach of air currents and drafts.

A burner with an open nozzle must not be left running unattended!

The Babington burner, unlike a blowtorch converted to work in mining, is a reliable and durable unit that does not require complex maintenance. It is enough to periodically clean the fuel system, tank and sump, blow out the air duct in idle mode, and also monitor the serviceability of the compressor and oil pump. A working burner is a reliable and economical unit with a long service life.

Many home craftsmen know what a gas burner is. Thanks to it, you can weld, surfacing and other types of processing of metal products, heat them and connect them. The principle of operation of such a device is to mix flammable gas and oxygen. As a result, you can get a stable flame with a huge temperature, which is difficult to extinguish. Such burners can be universal or designed for specific jobs. The fact that the flame is stable allows this unit to be used outdoors even in windy conditions. You can either buy it or make it at home. If you are not one of those who are looking for easy ways, we suggest you figure out how to properly make a gas torch for soldering with your own hands.

Materials and tools for work

To make a regular burner, you will need the following parts and tools:

Bulgarian;
hammer;
sandpaper;
brass blanks for nozzle and divider;
thin brass tube Ø15 mm;
wooden bars;
vice;
FUM tape or silicone seal;
connecting hoses;
control valve.

Making a handle and nozzle

Take a brass tube and attach a handle to it. If you have a handle from an old burner, you can use it - it will be much more convenient. If you don’t have one, you can take a wooden block. To make the handle fit comfortably in your hand, it can be processed. You need to drill a hole in it for the brass tube. Their diameters must match. After which the tube is inserted into the beam and secured there with silicone or epoxy resin.

For ease of work, the brass tube must be bent above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

The next stage is the manufacture of the nozzle. This is a labor-intensive and long process. It needs to be approached with greater responsibility. The desired nozzle opening size is 0.1 mm. It is clear that it will be very difficult to achieve this size on your own without special equipment, so you need to drill the hole a little wider and adjust the edges to the desired size. Everything must be done carefully so that the hole is even and does not direct the flame in different directions. After making the hole, secure the workpiece in a vice. Then carefully strike the future nozzle with a hammer. This must be done vertically, with a “pull” towards the center of the workpiece. Gradually, the part must be scrolled, ensuring an ideal hole without slope.

After embossing the part, you need to sand the nozzle head with fine-grained sandpaper. Threads should be applied to the back of the part to connect it to the tube. A simpler connection method is to solder the nozzle to the pipe. But it should be noted that in this case it will be very difficult to repair any parts.

In principle, that’s all, now you can connect a gas cylinder to the tube, light it, and the unit is ready to work. But now certain difficulties arise that interfere with normal work and cause inconvenience. It turns out that you can regulate the gas flow only by opening and closing the tap on the gas cylinder. In this case, it will be very difficult to achieve the required flame strength. What to do?

Work to improve flame control

To ensure normal operation of our burner, it is necessary to equip it with a divider and a tap. A suitable place to mount the tap is near the handle, 2–4 cm higher. But it can also be installed on the supply pipe. A faucet from a burner from an old autogenous engine or its other analogue will do. It is permanently fixed to the tube with a threaded connection. To seal the connection, use FUM tape.

The divider will be installed on the pipe with the nozzle. It also needs to be made of brass Ø 15 mm. The best option is a cylindrical part with a hole for a tube with a nozzle. If there is none, do the following:

Take a brass pipe Ø 35 mm and cut a piece of 100–150 mm.
Stepping back from the end, use a marker to mark 3-5 points exactly distant from each other.
Drill 8–10 mm holes in it with a drill and use a grinder to make even cuts to them.
Now you can bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner tube.

To properly secure the divider, it must be placed so that the nozzle protrudes 2-3 mm from the connection point. Thanks to this device, two goals can be achieved: to protect the flame from strong winds and to provide it with a flow of oxygen, which is necessary for a more stable and strong flame.

All welding points can be smoothed using a grinder. Then your homemade burner will look more solid. That's all. Now all that remains is to supply gas and use the burner for its intended purpose.

Making a mini burner

If you need to work with small parts or circuit boards, then such a large torch will not suit you at all. In this case, you can make a small burner from improvised materials that will produce temperatures up to 1000ºC. You will need:

Regular dropper – 2 pcs.
Needle for inflating balls.
Needle for a medical syringe.
Soldering iron.
File.
Copper wire.
Pliers.
Grinding stone.
Flux for soldering.
Thermal gun.

Armed with all the tools, you can get to work. For convenience, we divide the process into the following stages:

Gas will flow through the thick tube, and compressed air through the thin (medical) tube. You can change the pressure of gas and compressed air thanks to the dropper regulators. This small burner will be useful for use at home.

A gas burner is a useful tool in capable hands. In order to have it, you don’t have to go to the store and spend money to buy it. You can do everything yourself. The main thing is to prepare all the materials and tools, as well as research the technology for manufacturing the burner. Before starting work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the structure of the tool and the principle of its operation. Then it will be much easier for you to do everything yourself.

Video

Watch a video on how to make a burner from scrap materials:

Video about making a miniature gas burner:

- another extremely useful thing in the household of a craftsman who works with metal. It is needed for many things: from soldering work to welding with preheating of workpieces or places of future welds.

Since the functions of gas heaters are the widest, their types are numerous and varied. Models for jewelry work resemble graceful pens. And devices for heating bitumen for roofing work are more like powerful spotlights. All of them are presented on the market: as they say, for every taste and budget.

The purchased model has one advantage - it has a safety certificate. If, according to the conditions of your work, the presence of such a certificate is mandatory, then there is nothing to think about: you need to buy a gas burner. But if you work independently, and official paper doesn’t make you hot or cold, then a DIY gas burner is an excellent solution in all respects.

Why and why? Firstly, this thing is not cheap. Secondly, the design is not too complicated, you will be able to do it, we promise. Before you make a gas burner with your own hands, you need to take into account some special information.

How welding works with a gas torch occur.

Features of gas burners:

The first thing is the material from which the nozzle should be made. Only refractory metal, because your device must produce really high temperatures - up to 1000 ° C, so the nozzle must be stable at such temperatures.
We don’t skimp on the crane, because your safety will depend on its quality. If a leak suddenly starts, the gas supply is instantly shut off using a tap. The faucet must be of high quality; it must not leak.
Another element of the device, the quality of which must be of the highest quality, is the connection point to a gas cylinder with or without a reducer; if the cylinder is small, then it has a valve. We remember that the overwhelming majority of gas-related accidents occur precisely because of a defective shut-off device.
Propane is most often used - this is for your information.
At its core, a gas burner is an evaporative type nozzle.
A gas torch for do-it-yourself soldering is, in principle, no different from a device for hardening metal parts, so it can be made for a wide variety of applications.

How does a gas burner work?

The mechanism of action of the injection type device:

Gas is supplied through a hose as a result of the pressure that is generated during the evaporation of liquefied gas inside the cylinder. This pressure is sufficient to ensure that the incoming gas is sufficient to create and maintain an even, constant flame. Not all cylinders have a reducer; in this case, the gas flow can be regulated by a working tap.
The shut-off valve is by no means functional, it has a completely different function, it is attached to the cylinder valve with the only task - to open or close the gas supply.
A gas stream is supplied to the nozzle through the gas supply tube. This tube goes into a nipple, which shapes the direction of the flame. This nipple, together with the gas supply tube, is located in a special liner, the function of which is to mix gas with air.
The insert, together with the nipple and the gas supply tube, is adjusted with a screw. It is best to make the device collapsible, since the nipple must be cleaned without fail.
After formation in the liner, the mixture of gas and air is supplied to a special nozzle of the nozzle, into which an additional portion of oxygen is supplied from atmospheric air. The nozzle needs ventilation holes; they will make the flame more even and stable.

Homemade burner options

We already know that one of the main elements of the device is the valve. Powerful, large-sized models must be equipped with industrial-type valves. These valves can be purchased, or you can use old ones while maintaining integrity and providing that there is no gas leakage.

With such dimensions, a standard 50-liter gas cylinder equipped with an angle valve and reducer is used.

Burner with valve VK-74

Cylinder and gas burner.

The main thing to remember is that this valve should only be used to regulate the flame. You only need to stop the flow of gas at the cylinder itself. VK-74 is a valve for an oxygen cylinder, to which a handle with a connected hose from the cylinder is attached. A cap with a hole for the jet is also screwed onto the valve; here you can use an element from a blowtorch or gas stove. A nozzle made of refractory steel on two wires is welded to the cap.

In order for air to enter the combustion zone, the distance between the cap and the nozzle must be at least 15 mm. The position of the nozzle is determined by wire holders so that the burner flame passes exactly in the center. How to light a flame: slowly open the valve by holding a lit match to the nozzle. The flame is regulated by a valve.

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

A homemade one is perfectly made from an acetylene cutter whose oxygen supply valve has failed. In this case, the mixing chamber needs to be reworked: everything needs to be removed from it to make it lighter, this also applies to the tap and oxygen barrel. The remaining hole needs to be soldered.

The reducer hose from the cylinder must be connected to the fitting. For ease of operation, the tip is installed at an angle of 45° using a union nut on the mixing chamber. Weld the nozzle to the flange, which is then screwed onto the thread of the tip. We make the nozzle in the same way as in the first version with the VK-74 valve.

Gas mini burner

Drawing of a gas burner.

This is called “minor” work - for example, jewelry. In this mode, it is most convenient to use a special mini-device. This one is made very simply from scrap materials. The main element in it is a needle for inflating balls. You need to work with this needle: first make a hole in the form of a cut approximately in the middle or a little further. Some needles already have such holes, then we are happy and continue to work.

We take another needle, this time from a syringe, bend it at an angle of 45°. The end of the needle should be sharpened so that its sharp end turns into a right angle cut, and the needle becomes like a narrow metal tube. We insert the syringe needle into the ball needle so that both ends come out of the larger needle. In this position, the needles need to be soldered to each other. After this, we connect droppers with clamps to regulate them to the base of the needles.

The clamps should be located as close as possible to the needles and fastened to each other - they will serve as valves, that is, regulate the supply of gas and atmospheric air. After connecting the gas source it will be ready for work. With all its simplicity and compactness, you can achieve temperatures of up to 1000° on it. And don’t forget safety precautions, you need to work very carefully with this baby.

So, building a gas burner with your own hands is a) real; b) profitable; c) useful. To do this, it is enough to decide what kind of work you are planning to determine the type and dimensions. The design of a gas burner is simple from a physical point of view; the main thing is to follow our advice regarding the main elements. We wish you quick solutions, high-quality valves and an even flame.

In a home workshop or garage, there is often a need to use a gas burner. It has the widest range of applications – from soldering to roof repairs. Not to mention the need to heat up the metal part for processing.

When doing metalworking work on metal, a gas torch can be used to heat the workpiece for the purpose of subsequent hardening. If you are engaged in electric welding, when working with some metals it is necessary to warm up the area of the future weld.

Tool stores sell a variety of tools for working safely with fire. A propane burner can be of any size and any configuration. The size of a ballpoint pen for jewelry soldering.

Or m new nozzle ramp for heating bitumen on the roof:

The advantage of industrial options is the safety certificate. However, there is nothing in the design that cannot be replicated at home. Since any product in the store costs a lot of money, we will tell you how to make a gas burner with your own hands.

Important! Homemade devices for working with fire carry potential dangers. Therefore, a propane torch manufactured without technical expertise is operated at your own peril and risk.

Drawings and step-by-step instructions for making a burner

Let's take a closer look at the nuances that you should pay attention to when making a burner.

First of all, it is necessary to use refractory metals. A properly configured burner can produce up to 1000 ° C, so the nozzle must match the flame temperature;
It is important to choose a reliable working crane. If something goes wrong, the gas supply is first cut off and the danger is eliminated. If the tap leaks, you will not be able to quickly extinguish the flame;
The connection point to the gas source (a bottle with a valve or a 5 liter propane bottle with a reducer) must be reliable. It is when operating low-quality shut-off valves that most accidents occur.