Handmade stool made of wood. Wooden stool: comfortable home furniture with your own hands

The stool has no back or armrests. Therefore, if you decide to assemble such a structure yourself, you are unlikely to encounter any special difficulties in the manufacture of such a piece of furniture. In this article we will tell you how to make a stool with your own hands.

If you have never assembled anything like this from wood, then it is unlikely that you will be able to make a high-quality and reliable product the first time.

You can use a material that does not require any special preparation for assembly. It can be chipboard or regular 20mm plywood. I must say that chipboard is a rather capricious and fragile material in itself. Also, a stool made from it will turn out to be quite heavy. In addition, due to its demand, it will roam from room to room, which will sooner or later affect the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, it is better to assemble a stool from plywood. It is also worth mentioning the fact that the chipboard sheet has dimensions of 2750 × 1830 mm, while the plywood sheet is 1525 × 1525 mm.

From one sheet of plywood, you can make three stools. To perform the work, you will need the following tools and supplies:

• Electric jigsaw with a set of saw blades for wood with fine teeth.
• Screwdriver.
• Joiner's square.
• Confirmed drill 5×50 mm.
• Screwdriver bits. It is better if it is a set, where, as a rule, there is a hexagon for confirmations.
• Sander or ordinary coarse and fine-grained sandpaper.
• Confirmations: 12 pcs.
• Furniture plugs for confirmations: 12 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 4×16: 24 pcs.
• Furniture metal (can be plastic) corners: 12 pcs.

Preparation

First, we mark the future details in size. We cut with a jigsaw 6 rectangular elements measuring 400 × 300 mm (legs) and 140 × 248 mm (stiffening ribs), also 3 square parts (seat) measuring 330 × 330 mm.

The height of the sidewall (legs) should in no case be less than 400 mm, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to sit on such a stool.

On one of the parts, which will be our sidewall or leg, we need to cut out the radius. How to do it? You can use a compass, or you can use a large oval plate. Attach to the sidewall and circle a semicircle with a marker or pencil. Using a jigsaw, carefully cut out a rounded depression into the details. Then we apply the cut out part to the second side of the leg and do the same procedure. For a square part, which will be our seat, you can find a smaller round plate and also mark the radii on each side, you can also round the corners. We make cutouts. After the radii are made on all the details, we outline the places where we will have fasteners.

If you decide to make the seat soft using foam rubber and upholstery fabric, then the radius cutouts on it will be superfluous.

Assembly

Now we proceed directly to the assembly. On all parts (legs) we drill two vertical holes with a confirmation drill.

When drilling holes in the sidewalls, you need to attach a stiffener to the place where it will be attached so that the drill, having drilled a leg, makes a notch at the same time in this rib. Then the holes will match better, and there will be no skew when twisting the confirmation. At what height from the floor these stiffeners will be attached, everyone decides individually.

After the legs with stiffeners are assembled, it remains to attach the seat to them through the corners. Let's go through all the corners with sandpaper (first coarse-grained, and fine-grained at the finish). We put caps on the hats of confirmations and that's it - the stool is ready. Stools of this design are very well suited for the kitchen.

If you decide to make a stool out of wood, then you will need a hewn board without knots 800 × 200 mm 25 mm thick.

Tools:

• wood screws with a sweat head - 8 pieces (6 × 60 mm);
• sandpaper holder (sanding block);
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• joiner's square;
• roulette.

Using a measuring tool, we measure the future seat, 200 × 400 mm in size. Then we measure out two parts that will be our chair legs. If you want to get a more elegant product, then they can be made curly. To do this, you need to prepare a template in advance. The simplest thing is to cut out a pattern from thick cardboard along the lines already drawn with a marker. It remains just to attach the cardboard to the wooden part and circle it.

Now we need to mark out another important structural element: the stiffener.

To give the product greater stability and rigidity, the jumper between the legs should have a trapezoidal shape, that is, one side may have a size different from the size of the other side, but strictly proportionally, so that 5 mm bevels fall on each side, for example, 220 mm and 230 mm. After you have drawn the entire board, you can start cutting the parts.

To ensure that all parts are cut evenly, the handle of the jigsaw must be held firmly, as it vibrates strongly when cutting. You can also cut evenly if you cut not along the line, but next to it.

After all the details are cut off, it's time to take on the sanding block. We grind the end parts and corners of the workpieces. Moreover, it is better and more convenient to perform grinding when the parts of the stool are not yet assembled into a structure.

Sandpaper 40-60K is mainly used when there are obvious bumps on the wooden part. Sandpaper 80-120K, when these irregularities are insignificant. Sandpaper 160–320K is used for finishing. Which type of sandpaper to use depends largely on the type of wood and the results of the cut.

And then came the long-awaited moment of assembly. It is best to do this on as flat a surface as possible.

1. We connect the stiffener with the legs, screwing through one self-tapping screw on each side. The smaller side (220 mm) should be at the top.
2. We put the seat on top and fasten it through two self-tapping screws on each leg.
3. We twist below one more screw through the legs to the stiffener.

The stool is ready. To give a noble look to your product, you can cover it with a mahogany stain and then open it with a transparent varnish for wood.

Making a folding stool

But what if the idea came to your mind to make a more complex element from the detachment of stools - a folding stool. The need for such a design may arise not spontaneously, but quite even situationally. For example, it is convenient to periodically take such a stool for fishing or for nature, or maybe somewhere else. The advantages of such a folding stool, first of all, are that it is quite compact and easily fits in the trunk of a car.

Now let's move from words to deeds. To do the job, we need:

• 4 wooden blocks measuring 470 × 40 × 20 mm, where 20 mm is the thickness of the part;
• 4 small planed crossbars measuring 320 × 40 × 20;
• 4 bars for sitting, size 350 × 90 × 20 (2 pieces) and 350 × 60 × 20 (2 pieces);
• 2 overhead cross-legs, size 320 × 40 × 20;
• 6 bolts with a diameter of 6 mm (length including cap is 40 mm), 12 self-tapping screws (45 - 50 mm).

Before assembly, all wooden parts of the stool must be perfectly sanded.

Assembly should begin with the fact that 470 mm bars are bolted together. We measure 260 mm and in this place we drill a hole of such a diameter that the bolt head and the fixing nut are recessed into the tree.

The fastening of the legs to each other should not be in the middle, otherwise the whole structure will turn out to be too high and unstable. Such a mount should be slightly off-center.

Now, through the bolted connection, we fasten the outer crossbars (320 × 40 × 20) to the upper parts of the outer legs. We do the same with the inner crossbars, fixing them to the upper parts of the inner legs.

We got a swivel that will allow our future stool to fold. Now, to the fixed crossbars, we fasten bars for sitting on self-tapping screws: two extreme, wide, 90 mm each. It is worth considering that these outer bars are attached as follows: one to the outer crossbar, and the other to the inner one, and they should protrude 15–20 mm in relation to the crossbars.

We measure 100 mm from the bottom of the legs and fasten the legs for rigidity. Now the most important thing begins - this is the fastening of two internal narrow bars 60 mm wide. It is from their correct installation that it will depend on how well the folding mechanism of the stool will work. Don't forget that these narrow seat bars are attached in the same way as wide ones: one to the outer bar, the other to the inner bar.

Approximately 15-20 mm should separate the narrow inner bars from the wide outer ones. In this case, the height of the entire structure of the stool can be up to 450 mm from the floor. This is a normal standard height at which a person can feel comfortable. If the stool turns out to be higher, you can reduce its height by inserting an additional bar with dimensions in the section of 20 × 20 mm.

Of course, the stool itself cannot be attributed to the class of ergonomic furniture. But it is always an integral part of the home interior. No matter what it is, this stool - small or large, folding or not. It is important that making a stool yourself, firstly, will save you money, and secondly, it will be a good indication that you have skillful hands.

Video

See how you can make a simple stool:

This video shows how to make an oak stool:

Photo

"Can you make a box? Yes? Okay, you'll make stools for now." This is from a conversation with a new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, making a simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than a box. That one can be more difficult if it is retractable in the nightstand. Therefore, it is better for those who are interested in carpentry to master it, starting with a stool. You won’t save much money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to take on large cabinet furniture, which will save you many times over, plus unique items in the interior.

A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable garbage, you can test your carpentry skills on the balcony or even in the kitchen. After making sure that the matter is going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you can no longer make furniture more impressive.

Device and something about terms

The classic wooden kitchen stool is arranged as shown in fig. It can also be seen that its construction is rather complicated for a beginner, but we will come to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for another.

The reader may think that to call the support beam a tsarga, and screeds / struts with prolegs are already purely furniture specifics, sort of like a bench for sailors - a can. As for the king, this is not so. Drawers can also be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams either in appearance or in the nature of the load.

In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads among the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it; make them work.

In the manufacture of furniture, the drawer is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, the kings and furniture are very diverse.

For example, at pos. 1 fig. (underside of a stool with legs in nests) tsargs are still quite tsargi-bearing beams, only from a bar. But already at pos. 2 tsargi - kerchiefs, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 kerchiefs can do without it. And on pos. 4 (dressing table) tsarga - jib, which is a beam no more than a scarf.

Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the side will be a shaped steel brace, because. only in this case does it keep the underframe boards from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the underframe boards will become both beams and drawers, because. support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the sides (!), because. the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting nodes of the legs are assembled and loaded.

Tsars from the board can also be vertical racks, and not beams. In this case, they are called combatant tsars, pos. 6. In general, you need to deal with drawers as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, and how they look is the second or fifth question. It was necessary to be distracted immediately by the kings, because. in furniture they are found all the time.

What do we do?

To make a stool, let's see what we can do. Not all, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.

A classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. Its design has developed over the centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the design allows you to use the stool as a work table, everyone knows this. You can take on a classic stool from the very beginning, having mastered several woodworking techniques, see below.

In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawstrings at all, into sockets in a thick, durable seat, or into sockets in scarf drawstrings. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, often in appearance, pos. 3.

In order for the lightweight stool to be durable, its legs are tied with screeds: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the screeds can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame of the couplers interferes with the legs of the seated person, and the cut into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or put couplers at different levels, pos. 7.

The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped system of ties (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; one such example will be discussed below.

Important subtleties

If you ever undertake to make a lightweight stool, please note, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option - the legs should be arched and expand upwards, see below. Without one or the other, the legs can break even with a slight swaying on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to proportions of 1:1.5, is a stool with screeds at different levels, it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower screeds.

Second, in order to cut the heels and the heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks must be assembled into a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique splay: it is still possible to adjust the vertical legs to the size along the length, but it is simply impossible to achieve the accuracy of the angles necessary for processing the legs one by one on a tree. The corners will already go half a degree-degree against the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.

Stools-pedestals, pos. 9 and 10 are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from the point of view of mechanics, of 3 tsargs located in mutually perpendicular planes. The same stools are easy to manufacture, and it is better to start mastering the furniture business from them. In such a case, in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the pedestal also cut into half a tree, see below; the mortise slot is not conventionally shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; put it on dowels, see below. Covers on round pedestal stools make them visually indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs when padded as described below.

Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It needs 4 parts, but it does not get stuck in loose earth either.

Box-shaped, or shield, stools (pos. 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and interfere with the legs less. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all the connections are doweled, which makes the job somewhat easier. Box-shaped stools can be stretched in length up to turning into benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known household stool (pos. 12) is from this breed. In general, shield stools are also a grateful object for a novice carpenter, so we also give drawings of several types for them: normal room height, on the right in the figure, household lower, on the left in the same place, and below - the device is a very small children's stool.

Note: in fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneer sidewalls. This stool is well suited to the country: simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and in terms of strength and convenience it is not inferior to the classic one.

Stools on pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs should be fastened with a proleg. True, in this case it is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.

The next variety available for self-production by beginners is stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the necessary strength, either 2 drawers and 2 prongs are required, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 tsargi-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 coupler between the crosshairs of the legs. The latter option can be inscribed in the interior of the living room or bedroom, but most of all, the racks are made folding. Suddenly become interested - in fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. It is possible to assemble a country set from such a garden folding table. In fact, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing rack to picnic furniture, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.

Note: all the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of details, therefore their creative executions in different styles, poses are possible. 17-20.

Materials, tools, technology

What to do?

Wood is suitable for the manufacture of any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its counterparts. Any quality wood will go on a stool, except for very soft and easily decaying species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.

The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this breed, see fig. Secondly, wood for furniture should be room-dry, with a moisture content of 8-12%. in the process of drying, a violation of its structure is possible and in the room furniture made of it may eventually crack or crack.

Note: The slanting and graininess of wood on furniture in piece handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because. allow you to get a beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curvy due to unfavorable growing conditions.

The tree is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is an ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on non-damp stands. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on stands at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the pile is also placed on stands; now you can use the same plots as them, laying a couple across.

Note: it is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or the light of incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.

On the seat of the stool they usually take pine or spruce, and on the legs a harder tree: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly affordable imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, mahogany are suitable.

A full replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - MDF of medium and high density. MDF is not impregnated with anything, it is made from sawing waste of commercial wood pressed at an elevated temperature, i.e. The material is quite environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to stuff hardwood soles on the heels of MDF legs.

From plywood, you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as clothed stools with an X-shaped coupler of legs (pos. 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar to them in terms of power circuit. Also, plywood will go on the seat of any stool. From chipboard, as a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely. in the designs of all the rest there are points of concentration of loads, which the chipboard does not hold. But chipboard will also go well on the seat.

Note: it is highly desirable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion from both faces and from the end.

About glue

Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone carpentry glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require drying to a tack before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But for its preparation, you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.

Very strong glue for wood "liquid nails". It also makes it possible to hide the adhesive seams, because. tinted under a tree with sawdust, or you can buy ready-made tinted. Water-based acrylic wood glue is even better.

Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost the same durable PVA, but not the usual office paper, but wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in stationery, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both connected parts. Exposure for strength gain - at least a day, only then you can continue to work or load the connection.

Note: all adhesive joints do not hold shear along the seam; they need to be reinforced in this direction in various ways; for some, see below.

What to do?

We will assume that since you are a workman, you have a simple measuring and marking and working tool, including chisels and chisels. It is also desirable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But, in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.

Firstly, a thickness gauge (height gauge) for marking, see fig. It can be done with your own hands, using a pair of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can also swing at a home-made thicknessing machine, amateurs do.

Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that, they will come out humpbacked and slitted. Shields need to be rallied, i.e. when assembling do not glue the boards, press the edges tightly against each other until the glue is completely dry and gains strength. See below for how shields rally, but for now you need to make adaptations for this: plaz or wyms. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for the plaza and 120x50 for the vime.

A very convenient plaz from a screw clamp and an emphasis with a dead point, pos. 1 in fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately knocking out with a mallet, and roughly under the size of the shield they put a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.

Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because at the same time, its base bends itself. In addition, the removal of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza of 250 mm boards, you can rally a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wyms, pos. 3. The fastening of the end bosses-stops in all cases must be very strong, on M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because very large forces act on the stops in work.

How to do?

To make a stool, you need to master, first of all, several types of connections of wooden parts:

• Half-tree tie-in (half-tree).
• Tongue-and-groove connection.
• Spike-groove connection.

half a tree

Half-tree connection, shown in fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable, if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working with a hand tool, the recesses are first filed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and an excess array of material is selected with a chisel. To make cuts deeper, so that later with one blow to knock down the excess - a manufacturing defect!

Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, so the crosses are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and deaf (closed) half, pos. 3, for tapping on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected both by layer, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only on glue without additional reinforcements; this is how the supports of pedestal stools are assembled.

Tongue and groove

For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-and-groove connection can be open single, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the comb, and the open tongue-and-groove joints can also be turned by turning the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove comb is technologically more complicated (a hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully gouged), but stronger and more reliable.

The tongue-and-groove and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections on pos. 1 and 2 in the old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tenon-groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the spike, unlike the shoulder of the crest, bypasses the spike from all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breaking out in 2 planes, along and across.

The spike, as well as the closed tongue-and-groove comb, can be wedged when assembled with a hardwood wedge, also pos. 4. The connection becomes one-piece, but very strong and no visible additional fasteners are required, glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged spike is generally “dead”, it is easier to smash the entire product to smithereens than to separate it.

Note: joints on spikes in furniture, many types are used; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.

Dowels

Dowel connection is the main thing in carpentry, because. it is strong enough and invisible; completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal spike made of hard wood, made separately from the parts to be joined. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in Fig., here you can’t do without a thickness gauge for marking.

Dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called pins; wedges must be placed across the wood fibers of the parts to be joined. The dowel connection is one-piece, but very strong and reliable. The joints on the dowels are usually glued.

The attentive reader probably already had a question: where to get them, these dowels? Random twigs-slivers will not be reliable. True, dowel sticks are commercially available, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:

Video: connection on dowels

Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows

Video: do-it-yourself dowel making tool

Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels

Rallying

Boards in furniture panels are rallied in different ways. On a tongue (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in the figure, it is easiest to rally if you use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of ​​the surfaces to be joined, adhesive tongues are very reliable and often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be rallied to the sheet pile, because. the crest of the tongue should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that the minimum thickness of boards from a wild array for rallying on a tongue is 30 mm, but it is not recommended to rally boards less than 40 mm on a tongue; the dimensions of the tongue for the magpie board are shown in fig. higher. Boards made of MDF and laminate can be stacked on a tongue with a board thickness of 16 mm or more.

Rallying in the rebate, pos. 2, it is safe only if the fold is with a lock. A lockless fold is just a quarter, and a shield made of quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a shield rallied into a rail, i.e. just the ends of edged boards. It is difficult to make a lock seam at home, therefore, like a lock tongue-and-groove, they are rallying shields made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.

Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, possibly solid boards from 20 mm and MDF / laminate from 12 mm, but laborious and difficult. It is best to rally thin boards into a smooth fugue, pos. 4. The grooves for the fugue will have to be selected with a manual wood router with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to rally "wild" boards from 12 mm.

About the seat

Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will fit here. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 fig. It should be noted right away that it is better to make the outer upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often casually, and expensive jacquard, etc. it will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.

The inner skin is put on glue with a wing inversion from 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it to a tack. Foam rubber is chosen “on a snap”: compressed to the limit with fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten up sharply, and not pull up smoothly.

The outer skin is also placed on glue, with an overlap of the inner wings by at least 30-40 mm. Its edges, so as not to creep, are pulled together with harsh threads up and down, and the threads, so as not to be accidentally torn, are sealed with thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape. Upholstery nails, if necessary, imitate pushpins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.

The wicker seat pos. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.

Note: dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and 300-450 mm in diameter is round.

Examples and Samples

The most reliable and functional is, as we see, still a classic stool; no wonder she got into the classics. Therefore, we give her drawings, see fig. Pos. A - general view and device; B - seat mounting method; B - detailing; G - scheme for rallying the seat on the dowels; D - base assembly; E - checking for evenness by measuring pairs.

However, the established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not needed for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight kitchen stool based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top trim), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the removal of the drawer side outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and comfortable design - there are no prolegs. And in terms of strength, it will not yield to the classics, only a wicker seat cannot be made.

And, finally, a variant of the base of a lightweight stool without prolegs. Assembly method see fig. Material - wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will go into any living room.

Finally

Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - in a good hour! From a simple stool to such a closet or bed that the grated designer will gasp in admiration.

There are several options for the manufacture of this piece of furniture, including wood.

We will focus on the process of making a wooden stool familiar to everyone with our own hands. How to choose the right material, process it, correctly draw up a sample drawing - the article will offer detailed recommendations on all points.

All stool drawings below are just examples. The process of their manufacture is not accompanied by precise calculations, as is required in the design of load-bearing parts of any structure or those that are somehow subjected to significant loads.

Therefore, below is only a recommended algorithm for making a stool on your own, that is, a general instruction. What kind of model to make, it's up to you, dear reader. After all, it is clear that with your own hands you can build anything you want. The main thing is that the resulting sample is fully consistent with its purpose, which, again, is determined by the master.

Choice of stool design

The given drawings and drawings clearly show which stool options are most often assembled for domestic use.

A more original version is a stool and a nightstand at the same time.

There is only one explanation - the more complex the configuration, the more time it will take to make a stool. But this is not the main thing. For various curly elements, you will have to look for the appropriate tool, or even resort to the services of a person (or workshop) who has a machine tool, cutters, and the like for personal use.

A simple example: to make curly cuts, exactly along the radii, with just a manual jigsaw, it will turn out only from plywood. And then, not the fact that the result will be satisfactory. In the event that the legs are planned to be made from a solid board, then if you have only the simplest household tools, it is better not to try - this requires many years of experience in processing wooden blanks.

Material selection

The fact that you have to work with wood is understandable. But which products can be used?

Solid wood in the form of a board and a beam is suitable for the manufacture of any parts of the stool: seat (1), mounting bars (2), crossbars (3), prolegs, drawstrings and the legs themselves (4). A more simplified version - with a plywood cover. By the way, this solution has the advantage that the furniture board (another name for this structural part) is easier to laminate and, if necessary, replace.

Type of plywood

It must be waterproof. Water will definitely get on the stool during its operation. FBS products are the best in all respects, but their cost is such that not everyone wants to purchase such plywood. In everyday life, as a rule, products of the FSF and FK brands are used. To save money, you can buy cheaper sheets of these series, category Sh1.

This means that only one side of the specimen was polished. The condition of the second (purl, back) seat of the stool does not matter. On sale there is also a multi-layer with ready-made lamination, but it, of course, will cost more.

Wood species and material grade

Let's start with plywood. If the stool will be located indoors, then the FC brand is better suited. It is less moisture resistant, but the glue used to hold the veneer together is not as toxic. But PSF for this reason is recommended mainly for external use. In addition, the degree of its moisture resistance is higher. So if the stool will always be in the back room, garden or somewhere else outside the building - the best option.

But by the choice of wood, you can write quite a lot. Without going into the specifics of various species, the author recommends using larch for a stool. Firstly, it is easy to process it with your own hands. Secondly, the cost of the material is quite acceptable. Thirdly, unlike many other species of coniferous trees in this price range, larch becomes even stronger when wet. Therefore, with careful handling of the stool, it will serve for decades. Fourthly, it will not be necessary to constantly treat it with preparations against decay and biological pests. Other inexpensive options are acacia and ash.

Having stopped the choice on a specific type of wood, you should study all the features of working with it. But there are nuances, and it is this approach that guarantees that there will be no problems later. For example, does everyone know that the same acacia is easy to process, only after it has been soaked? Dry harvesting of this wood is not much inferior to stone in terms of hardness.

Wood moisture level

In general, all wood should be properly dried. In construction, it is forbidden to use these materials with an indicator of more than 20%. As for the stool, you don’t need to be an expert here to understand - assembling it with your own hands from raw blanks, after a while everything will have to be redone. The reason is banal - the whole structure will “lead” after drying the tree.

Technology Choice

Often there are tips not to use tongue-and-groove joints. The main argument is difficult. But if you think about it, is it?

In order to make grooves in the legs, the author used an electric / drill with a small cutter. Previously, I drilled holes along the marked lines, which I then combined, choosing “partitions” between them. No matter what anyone claims, this type of connection is the most reliable.

It is much easier to articulate all the elements with self-tapping screws with your own hands. The heads can be hidden and masked. But such a design will start to creak pretty soon - checked. It turns out that the common element connecting 2 workpieces is just a thin and short metal "pin" - the leg of the fastener.

Hardware can only be used as an additional (for landing on glue) method of fixing parts. For reinforcement, elements such as corners, brackets, plates are also used. The master himself will understand what is more convenient for one or another version of the stool. And then, this is done mainly for bulky structures. If the product is small, then one glue is enough. Although, perhaps, the reader has a different opinion - the author does not insist.

Manufacturing of component parts

The main parts of the stool are shown in the drawings (see above). If the drawing is ready, everything else is “a matter of technology”.

Construction assembly

This is, so to speak, a preliminary installation, a kind of "bride" of the stool. At this stage, the accuracy of all dimensions, the correct fit of the parts are checked, defects (if any) are identified, and so on. Here you can still redo something, modify it without extra costs and loss of time.

Processing of structural elements

After checking the readiness of the entire structure for assembly, the wood is “brought to mind” - it is impregnated with special compositions, dried, and so on.

Stool assembly

• It is desirable to start work from the seat. All crossbars, support bars and the like are attached to it - depending on the model.
• Installing the legs. They can be attached directly to the lid or assembled into a separate frame, with the installation of crossbars.
• Final assembly of the entire structure.

Grinding

After the stool is mounted, it needs to be given a “marketable” appearance. How and with what to process the surfaces, the master determines. With your own hands, this is done mainly with sandpaper or with the help of a special nozzle that is inserted into the chuck of an electric / drill.

External design

Here the main adviser is your own imagination. Varnish, stain, paint - there are enough options.

The author deliberately did not indicate what specific section and length the bar would need, did not advise a certain thickness of plywood sheets or boards, and so on, so as not to limit the reader in anything. If the meaning of the work - where to start and how to finish - is clear, everything else is unprincipled. After all, when something is done with one's own hands, it is a priori meant - HOW I WANT, and not someone else.

Good luck with your home building!

All photos from the article

Simple ordinary furniture in the house is always useful, even if you prefer more extravagant products. This is especially true of the suburban area, where you do not appear so often. Today we will talk about a wooden stool, the dignity of which and functionality can be discussed for quite some time. Most likely you once made the first model at labor lessons, however, since that time a lot of water has flowed under the bridge, so it is advisable to refresh everything in your memory.

In the photo - a simple wooden stool for the kitchen

In the article, as the process is described, professional advice will be given. So by the time the story ends, you will be quite savvy in theory and will know some of the secrets of the masters. It is even possible that making wooden stools will become your hobby. Why not - any models are always in demand by buyers.

Material

Any product consists of parts, so before work, you should take care of the blanks. You should purchase or find in the country for:

Tip: legs can be made not in a trapezoidal shape, especially when there is little experience in furniture business, but rectangular.

Tool

To work with your own hands, you should use a reliable and properly sharpened tool:

• a metal ruler is suitable for measuring;
• for marking - a metal square;
• wood saw;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• sandpaper.

Sometimes this set is added:

• glue;
• additional fixture;
• paint (varnish);
• brushes.

The price of the specified set of materials is quite affordable for everyone.

Preparation

It begins with inventing the shape of a stool, while it should be noted that it should be as stable as possible. Therefore, we do not recommend taking into account elongated products, which can often be found near the bar ().

Tip: the height of the stool should not be more than 600 mm from the floor. The shape is as close to cubic as possible.

Ordinary standard models can be used in many ways - for relaxation, as a stand, from which you can carry out home repairs or harvest from trees in the garden.

The seat area should not be small, it is better when the range is from 350 to 500 mm. After defining the model, make a preliminary drawing of it, indicating all dimensions. This will allow you to determine the needs of the material.

Process

The proposed instruction will put everything on the shelves:

1. Make a drawing, and you don’t need to try to create them, observing GOST. It will be quite enough to have a regular sketch with exactly the specified dimensions.

There are two separate elements to highlight:

• drawers - necessary for fixing the legs of the stool and serve as the basis for the seat;
• prolegs - allow you to ensure the rigidity and stability of the structure.

The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

If you decide to master the process of making home furniture, you should start with the simplest designs. First, try to make a stool with your own hands. You can quite cope with this task, even if you do not have special skills in working with wood.

Drafting

To avoid mistakes, it is worth making at least a schematic drawing of the future design. Our stool will consist of the following parts:

Seats: its side can be equal to 350-430 mm;

The main details of the stool

Tsarg - bars under the seat, creating a solid foundation; it is to them that the legs are attached;

Legs (supports) 45-50 cm high and 35-50 mm in cross section;

Prolegs, which serve to give the structure additional stability; it is better to place them not exactly in the center of the legs, but a little closer to the bottom;

Crackers: corners made of wood or metal, mounted in the corners under the seat (we will talk about them below).

A simple do-it-yourself stool

Advice! A household stool can be made small - up to 260-280 mm high with a seat size of 260x260 mm.

Required tools and materials

To work with wood we need:

Ready-made bars or a dry board 200 mm wide (it will be more convenient to work with this size, it can easily be sawn lengthwise into several bars of 50 mm each);

Roulette;

Square;

A hacksaw with fine teeth or an electric saw for sawing wood;

Rasp;

Chisel;

Drill or screwdriver: they not only fasten parts, but also drill holes; you can replace it with a set of screwdrivers;

self-tapping screws;

Sandpaper.

It is great if there is a milling cutter available, with which you can quickly prepare the grooves and process the edges. Experienced craftsmen also use grinders - with circles of different grain sizes. However, you can also use the usual old-fashioned way - choose grooves and make spikes only with a chisel, jigsaw and rasp, and then sand the tree with sandpaper.

Grooving

Sawing and processing parts

1. First, we need to get 4 equal-sized blanks for legs, tsargs and prolegs.

2. To obtain a stable structure, cut the bars strictly at 90°.

3. When calculating the dimensions of the drawstrings and prolegs, do not forget that the length of the spikes must be added to their length (see the figure below).

Marking the prolegs

4. Our design should not have chips and scuffs, otherwise it will be easy to catch a burr during use. Therefore, after cutting the parts carefully we process with sandpaper No. 40-60, wound for convenience on a bar, edges and cuts of blanks. It is also necessary to clean out pronounced irregularities.

5. With sandpaper with a finer abrasive No. 80-120, and then No. 160-320, we again go through the entire plane of each part twice.

How to choose a groove and make spikes?

1. The connection with self-tapping screws is very unreliable - the stool will loosen very quickly. Therefore, for fastening the prolegs and the tsarg, we will use a tenon-groove connection.

2. The simplest option - rectangular spikes. Their width should be 1/3 of the thickness of the part, and the length should be about 80% of its thickness. That is, if the thickness of our proleg is 20 mm, then we must make spike 16 mm long and 7 mm wide(multiply 20 by 1/3 and get 6.67 mm, round the figure to 7).

Rectangular spike for connecting prolegs

3. So, we mark the location of the spikes on the sides and prolegs.

tongue-and-groove connection

4. Since the spike is much easier to fit than the groove, we start with making grooves.

5. It is more convenient to use a drill or a screwdriver to drill them. After making several holes (see photo), we select the excess wood between them very sharp chisel(A blunt instrument can only hurt you.)

6. To make the walls even, you can fix a small bar at the groove selection line - in this case, you can easily select a groove at 90 °.

7. Of course, it is much easier to make spikes on a milling machine. But you can cut them out using the old-fashioned markup method using the usual jigsaw and rasp, and if the house has a jigsaw, then things will go even faster.

8. Check the connection. It should be tight enough, and the spike should fit tightly into the groove to the very end.

Stool assembly

1. We assemble the legs in pairs, fastening them with drawstrings and prolegs. To check, first we assemble a stool dry without the use of glue. We check the accuracy of the dimensions of the parts and the fidelity of their fit. We eliminate the identified shortcomings.

We check the evenness of the parts in pairs

2. If there are no errors, we disassemble the structure and drip several grooves into the holes drops of glue, and then smear it with thin chips along the walls. After drying, you can additionally fix the connections with self-tapping screws.

3. To seat it didn’t warp quickly, it’s better to pick it up from several (5-7) boards up to 80 cm wide.

4. We glue the seat boards, smearing them with glue on the sides, and tighten them clamps(tools for tightening and tightly pressing parts to each other).

We tighten the glued seat with clamps

5. We are waiting for the glue to dry completely.

6. We apply glue again, but already on the back of the seat, apply the seat to our stool, align the structure and press it tightly. Remove excess glue immediately.

7. In principle, the seat can be screwed or fixed with wooden dowels (chops) 3 cm long.

8. To strengthen the back of the seat, we attach small corners to the legs and sides (they are called breadcrumbs) or use a furniture corner screed.

In the corners we fix the corners (crackers)

Furniture coupler for tsarg

You can also strengthen the structure with the help of ordinary bars attached to the inside of the stool in the tsarg area.

Plywood stool

You can make the simplest construction from scraps of 3 mm plywood for a summer house or garage in a couple of hours. Thinner sheets under the weight of the human body will quickly break. It is better to use birch plywood. It is easier to process, and products from it are painted more evenly.

There is no point in explaining the manufacturing process in detail - the figure below shows in detail the order of cutting and assembly. All blanks are cut with a hand saw or a jigsaw and carefully cleaned. The finished product can be varnished after assembly.

The simplest plywood stool

Plywood children's stool

Video: How to make a folding stool