Building a wooden terrace with your own hands is a technology for making wooden terraces. How to build a wooden veranda - phased construction How to make a wooden terrace with your hands

Before proceeding to study the instructions on how to build a terrace in the country, you should understand the difference between this type of building and verandas that are in many ways similar to them. A terrace is an extension raised above the ground, equipped with a light canopy and open on three sides, used mainly in the warm season. The veranda is a more solid structure, equipped with a full roof, walls, doors and large glazed windows.

Project and materials for a country terrace

Country terrace - a covered unheated structure, which can be an independent stand-alone building or a structure attached to the main task. Decorated with flowers and light garden furniture, the graceful summer terrace not only decorates the courtyard, but also serves as a favorite vacation spot for all family members.

General view of the country terrace

Selecting the right project

For a small wooden country house, inhabited only in the warm season, the best option for a terrace is a light plank extension, decorated in a rustic folk style. The location and shape of such a structure may vary depending on personal preferences and the layout of the main building.

Usually, a terrace is attached in front of the frontal part of the facade, but options are also possible: to the side wall of the house or with a narrow ribbon that goes around the entire building around the perimeter.

The main condition that they try to observe when choosing a place for construction is that the house must have access directly to the terrace itself.

The shape of the site, as a rule, is given a rectangular one, the roof covering it is made single-pitched, resting with the rear part on the wall of the house, and the front part - on vertical wooden racks.

Simple open terrace with pitched roof

The standard width of the house terrace is considered to be 2.5 m, and its length is equated to the length of the adjacent wall of the building.

To give a special comfort, the terrace is often shaded with tapestries and fenced with low wooden railings, mounted on simple posts or carved balusters.

Basic building materials

To build a light wooden terrace in the country with your own hands, you will need:

terrace decking (aka deck flooring) is a specially processed wood material with extreme weather resistance. If necessary, the decking can be replaced with a 30-40 mm larch (in extreme cases, pine) grooved board, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and protective oil;
wooden logs - pine timber with a section of 80 by 150 mm;
oak or larch beams for the construction of support posts;
bars of coniferous wood for the upper and lower strapping;
shaped rail and balusters for railings;
tes, polycarbonate, roofing metal profile, metal tile - any material from this list, necessary to cover the roof;
screws, self-tapping screws, anchor bolts, metal brackets, corners and some other fasteners.

Terrace decking is not afraid of moisture

Step-by-step instructions for building a terrace in the country

Having decided how to make a terrace in the country, get the necessary tools and fixtures and clear the construction site. After completing the preparation, proceed to the construction of the foundation.

Preparing the site and tools for work

At work you will need:

hacksaw;
reverse drill with a set of drills and bits;
tape measure and construction pencil;
grinder with a set of cutting and polishing discs;
a coil of cord and wooden pegs;
hammer;
spirit level and cord plumb;
ladder;
flange brush.

Now you can prepare the site:

Clear the site of debris and vegetation.
Carefully remove weed roots and remove large pebbles.
Cut off the protruding bumps, fill in the holes.
Level the soil and, if necessary, compact it with a hand roller.

Transfer the terrace plan to the area - with pegs with a string stretched between them, mark the contours of the future building.

Arrangement of the foundation for an extension

The terrace, like any other building, must be built on a specially equipped base. Residential buildings are erected on a strip foundation, but under a small wooden terrace there is no need to build such a massive concrete substrate. The best option for a base for such a lightweight structure as a wooden extension would be an inexpensive and easily equipped columnar foundation.

Terrace on a high columnar foundation

The procedure for the construction of a columnar foundation:

Taking into account the rule that after laying on the logs, the terrace flooring should be located 25-30 mm below the floor level in the country house, calculate the height of the foundation pillars.
On the wall of the house, mark this point with a horizontal beam, on which the ends of the lag will rest in the future.
For better stability of the extension, build foundation pillars not only at the corners of the terrace, but also in the spaces between them. Place the pillars in two lines parallel to the wall of the house, with an interval in a row of 1.4-1.7 m.
For each post in the ground, dig a hole with a section of 40 by 40 cm and a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.
At the bottom of each hole, pour a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of fine gravel. Compact the sand and stone cushion with a manual rammer and line the pit from the inside with waterproofing material.
On the surface of the earth around the pit, build a wooden box formwork of the desired height and pour a thick concrete solution into the resulting forms.
When the concrete sets well, remove the formwork and align the top ends of the pillars in a single plane.
After the supports have completely hardened, wrap them with roofing felt glued to hot bituminous mastic. In order to prevent the penetration of soil moisture into the supporting beams of the boardwalk, cover the tops of the pillars with several layers of the same roofing material.

Having completed the construction of the foundation, proceed to the next stage of construction, namely, begin to equip the floors.

Wood floor construction technology

In country houses, double plank floors are usually made with intermediate lags and a layer of insulation, but for a light summer terrace it will be enough to build a single wooden decking or thick tongue-and-groove board.

The basis of such a floor is a massive lattice frame - a grillage made of thick (at least 100 by 150 mm section), pine beams impregnated with an antiseptic, laid on concrete foundation columns.

Pillar foundation with wooden grillage

The procedure for laying a wooden floor:

Lay the grillage bars cut to size strictly horizontally on the ends of the foundation columns covered with roofing material. Check the position of the bars with a spirit level, and attach them to the concrete base with special anchors or metal brackets.
At the joints, tighten the lattice ribs with powerful galvanized corners.
Perpendicular to the frame bars with a step of 50-60 cm, lay the logs on the edge and attach them to the base with anchors or long self-tapping screws, screwing them into pre-drilled holes.
Lay decking or tongue-and-groove boards tightly fitted to each other on the logs and attach them to the logs with flush-cut screws, the heads of which are covered with putty or covered with decorative caps.

When the floor is ready, proceed to the construction of the upper part of the terrace

Building a wall frame

For the construction of a vertical frame of the terrace, larch or oak beams with a section of 100 by 100 mm are used. Previously, such bars are treated with a fungicide, impregnated with a water-repellent composition and cleaned with sandpaper from scuffs and splinters.

The order of construction of the vertical frame:

Lay a row of lower trim beams on the terrace floor, connect them “in a straight lock” at the corners and attach the assembled trim to the load-bearing beams of the plank floor.
On the wall of the house, from the points of attachment of the edges of the terrace flooring to the building, draw two vertical lines upwards.
Along this marking, attach the first two support posts of the frame to the wall of the house.
Install two more such racks in the outer corners of the terrace.
After that, on the bottom trim, mark the installation locations for all other vertical supports. To do this, divide the length of each of the open sides of the extension into equal 70-150 cm segments.
At the marked points, cut out partial or full grooves in the bars of the lower trim, insert the support bars into them and attach each of them to the base with two steel corners.
Having assembled the vertical frame, connect the free ends of its bars with the beams of the upper trim and proceed with the construction of the roof.

Stages of arranging a reliable roof

The roof of the summer terrace is usually made single-pitched and gently sloping. To equip such a roof, they try to use the same material with which the country house is covered.

The procedure for the construction of a shed roof:

At the junction of the terrace roof to the country house, attach a long horizontal beam (the so-called run) to the wall of the building with anchor bolts.
Lay the roof rafters in parallel rows, attaching one of their ends to the run, and the other to the front beam of the upper trim.
Cover the rafters with a sparse (in the case of sheet roofing materials) or a solid (when using roll coatings) crate made of horizontally arranged thin edged boards.
Lay the selected roofing material on top of the crate and fix it in the appropriate way - with nails, slats or self-tapping screws.

Low wide terrace covered with cellular polycarbonate

After completing the main construction work, take care of finishing and decorating the terrace.

Finishing and decoration of the building

Enclose the terrace with railings, build steps, sand the details of the structure with fine sandpaper and cover them with waterproof paint, yacht varnish or special wax mastic.

Decorate openings with trellises, sun awnings or light linen curtains. Inside, decorate the extension with large flower vases, and furnish it with light garden furniture.

Option for arranging an open wooden terrace

Another option for decorating the terrace

Now, knowing how to make a terrace in the country with your own hands, you can safely get down to business. Do not deviate from the originally developed project, carefully follow all the instructions, follow the technological operations correctly, and as a result you will get a beautiful and practical summer extension to the country house.

The veranda allows you to profitably expand the usable space of a residential building. In a properly erected and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and in the cold season.

An extension is best built so that it closes the front door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda from any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be torn off from the main building and you will have to enter it through the street.

Extension dimensions are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a 3x4 m veranda is enough. It is also important to take into account the general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely attach verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen size and, in general, the features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project in hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

With the finished project, go to the local architectural department. Employees of the department will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that it takes about 2-3 months on average to review and approve a project, so it is best to deal with this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.

Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil along the perimeter of the future building and take it to the flower beds, to the garden or other place.

Second step. Align the resulting recess.

Third step. We do markup. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull the rope between the pins. We will be guided by it in the process of arranging the foundation.

We make the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on the bases of a columnar or tape type. The depth of the support is taken equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support with the foundation of the extension, because. these designs will have widely varying weights. Therefore, the degree of their shrinkage will also differ. To prevent a heavy house from pulling a relatively light extension, the latter must be erected on a separate foundation. To do this, leave between the foundations of approximately 3-4 cm gap.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the characteristics of the soil in your area and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

The tape type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, we keep the thickness at the level of 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench along the perimeter of the walls of the extension.

Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench, from wooden boards or shields, according to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-cm layer of sand and the same layer of gravel with the obligatory tamping of each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay the reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. So the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of gravel and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In the heat, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.

columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. Pits for poles are recommended to be made with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate racks for any size of the veranda. We maintain the distance between the supports within 0.8-1 m.

First step. We dig holes in the places of future pouring of the pillars. The best way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each recess with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour about 10 cm of gravel. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. Finished concrete supports are coated with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the cracks between the ground and the supports with sand.

Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the brick pillars. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.

Making a subfloor

The floor can be wood or concrete. For example, in a framed veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into an extension made of bricks.

We do the wooden draft floor like this:

we fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
we attach wooden logs to the bottom trim. We maintain the step at the level of 50 cm - so the floor will definitely not fail. We use the connection option described above;
we fill the space between the lags with expanded clay;
we make flooring from unedged boards or plywood with a thickness of about 50 mm. We fasten the flooring elements to the logs with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We do the concrete screed like this:

we fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
pour a layer on top;
laying reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a grid of bars with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is enough;
pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of the level.

We build a wooden veranda

Basic material properties

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other budget and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

With the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda, almost everyone can handle it. It is only necessary to properly mount the frame racks and sew them up with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The indisputable advantage of wood is its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the arrangement of expensive and difficult to build foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a brazier in such an extension or in its immediate vicinity is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and trifles. Therefore, it is better to take the source of fire somewhere far away from the wooden veranda.

Another significant drawback of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material needs serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

For the construction of the frame, we use a high quality wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm. We already have the lower harness and the subfloor, so we continue to work, adhering to the instructions below.

First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower strapping for the installation of vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements, we use staples and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. Therefore, the vertical beam, installed at the bottom of the slope, is made 50 cm below the opposite racks.

Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks, no questions will arise - we perform the connections in the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the posts longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low racks at the height of the low racks. We fasten the crossbars with high racks using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. The top harness is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam with all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beam with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the truss system.

Fifth step. We mount in increments of 50 cm. To do this, we use a wooden bar with a section of 100x200 mm. We perform the connection of structural elements by any of the previously discussed methods.

Sixth step. We sew the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, siding or other material is perfect for exterior. Between the materials of the outer and inner skin we lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse rails. The finishing material is also attached to them. When sheathing, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Prices for various types of timber

brick verandas

Basic information about building material

Brick is great for building capital verandas. In a building made of this material, it will be cool in summer and, if properly insulated, warm in winter. Brickwork is durable, fireproof and unpretentious in maintenance.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is a lot of weight. Such structures are built exclusively on, which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The order of the construction of the veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is even and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.

We first select the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options that are perfect for self-construction of a veranda are as follows:

spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
poke masonry. Wall thickness - 250 mm;
chain laying. Allows you to get walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord at two opposite ends of the foundation with a coupler. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We expose the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. To fasten building elements, we use a standard cement mortar.

Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the desired height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, therefore, the wall falling on the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, are made a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row of walls, we equip the armored belt. To do this, we fix a formwork about 70 mm high on each wall on the upper surface of the walls, put anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

We let the concrete harden, and then we attach a strapping of a wooden beam with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the truss system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with heat-insulating material. With single masonry, we carry out insulation, moisture insulation and interior decoration by analogy with a wooden veranda. The exterior finish is up to you. You can simply gently embroider the seams and finish it.

Masonry size	Length, L	Width, V	Height, H	Number of bricks thickness not included mortar joint, PC.	Number of bricks taking into account the thickness mortar joint 10 mm, PC.
1 m3 single brick laying	250	120	65	512	394
1 m3 thickened brickwork	250	120	88	378	302
	250	120	65	61	51
1 sq. m of masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 120 mm)	250	120	88	45	39
1 sq. m of masonry in one brick (masonry thickness 250 mm)	250	120	65	128	102
	250	120	65	189	153
1 sq. m of masonry in one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm)	250	120	88	140	117
	250	120	65	256	204
1 sq. m of laying in two bricks (masonry thickness 510 mm)	250	120	88	190	156
	250	250	65	317	255
1 sq. m of masonry in two and a half bricks (masonry thickness 640 mm)	250	250	88	235	195

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

We make the roof of the veranda

And the rafters have been installed. It remains to make the crate, mount the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The lathing can be continuous (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make a continuous crate from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the bars of the sparse lathing with a step recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the battens to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

The cells between the bars of the crate are filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay a waterproofing film on top and attach it to the crate using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous crate, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We fix the insulation plates with the help of transverse rails, nailing them to the crate.

In conclusion, it remains to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. Otherwise, we focus on our preferences and available budget.

Finishing the floor

If the draft floor is wooden, we put insulation in the space between them and fill the flooring from edged boards to the logs. Boards are painted and varnished.

On top of the concrete screed, you can also equip a boardwalk, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, such as linoleum.

At the end, the doors remain, furnish at your discretion and connect lighting if necessary. We will not pull the wire. It is enough to take the extension cord out of the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself veranda

Many owners of private houses, wanting to increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe building, seek to attach various structures to it. One of the most common is an open veranda. Consider how a terrace is made of wood - the most affordable building material in our country.

We draw up an extension project

Before you start building a veranda made of wood and any other materials, you should carefully study the project documentation. This will allow you to pre-calculate all the necessary materials, determine the shape of the future structure, and avoid possible mistakes during construction. Even if you do not have the necessary level of drawing or similar tools, we recommend that you make the simplest sketches of a future building with an indication of its dimensions.

Users often search:

During the preparation of the project, you should consider the entire sequence of work, the most optimal methods for its implementation. Similarly, you should decide on the equipment and tools necessary for the construction of the terrace.

Stage one - laying the foundation

After determining the sequence of construction, a do-it-yourself veranda made of wood is built step by step. You need to start from the base of the terrace, which is a tape shallow or columnar foundation.

As a rule, both types are quite widespread when performing self-manufacturing of house extensions. Consider the features of these types of foundation for the future terrace.

Column by Column

Simple and less expensive in terms of materials and physical effort is the columnar foundation of the veranda. It consists of several separate supports of rectangular section in a horizontal plane. The following materials are used for manufacturing:

red ceramic brick;
foundation concrete blocks;
construction concrete blocks;
masonry sand-cement mortar.

Before installation, pits of 0.6-1m are dug for future posts. The depth of penetration under the terrace supports depends on the quality of the soil and the mass of the future structure. The bottom of the pits is covered with sand and gravel with intermediate tamping. On top of the backfill under the base of the terrace, a concrete pad is poured for leveling.

The wooden veranda should evenly rest on all the elements of the foundation. To do this, the pillars are brought to a common level in height. For this purpose, partially cut blocks or bricks can be used, as well as various thicknesses of joints. After installing all the supports for the terrace, they must be protected from moisture. In this case, ready-made bituminous mastic and a roll waterproofer are used. Similarly, the waterproofing of the heads of the columns under the veranda is carried out.

Tape under the terrace - the pros and cons

The tape type of foundations for the terrace requires a lot of effort during construction. Main stages:

marking the tape along the perimeter of the walls of the terrace;
digging a trench to a depth of at least 0.6 meters with a width of about 30 cm;
installation of formwork for lifting the tape above the soil level to the beam strapping of the veranda;
filling the bottom of the trench with sand and gravel;
manufacturing and installation of a reinforcing frame made of steel rods;
preparation of concrete mortar in sufficient volume, pouring the tape to the upper edge of the formwork;
waterproofing of the frozen tape using ready-made compounds;
backfilling the trench with soil.

As can be seen from the description of the process, the technology for installing a strip foundation under a wooden terrace is a rather laborious and lengthy process, requiring higher qualifications than when installing a column base. In case of improper erection or high mobility of the soil, the tape can be torn and bent, which will necessarily affect the entire structure.

Stage two - the construction of the frame of the building

On the finished foundation, the frame of the structure is being installed. A do-it-yourself wooden terrace is made quickly enough, even alone. For work, you will need a construction beam with a section of 150x150 and 100x100 mm. The first beam will fit on the lower trim - the base of the veranda floor, the second - on the racks and supports for the railing.

Fitting the bottom trim

We lay a beam with a section of 150x150 on a foundation for a terrace previously lined with roofing material. If the dimensions of the extension exceed 6 meters - the standard length of lumber in our country, you will have to splice the strapping elements. The technology of the angular and longitudinal connection of the timber is as follows:

Select the most even, not behaving lumber.
At the ends, mark the cuts for half the thickness of the timber. The length of the future groove is equal in our case to 150 mm.
Saw the timber along the markup using a manual or mechanical tool - a carpenter's saw, circular or chain saw.
Connect the parts groove to groove at an angle or along.
Strengthen the connection further by driving in 2-3 #150 nails.

In order to avoid possible displacement of the terrace frame relative to the base (this should be considered at the stage of foundation construction), several pieces of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a free end length of 200-250 mm are left in the upper part of the pillars or tape. Before laying the strapping, holes of a larger diameter are drilled at the exit points of the steel rods, and the beam is laid on the pins, which are then bent flush.

After completing the timber strapping of the terrace floor along the perimeter, lay several transverse bars of the same section in the same way, installing them in pre-marked and sawn grooves in increments of about 1 meter, fastening them with long nails.

We install racks

To support the roof of a wooden veranda, it is necessary to install several vertical bars at the outer corners and along the long side parallel to the wall of the house. The length of which is chosen in such a way that the height of the terrace roof from the floor is at least 2 meters, and the slope of the roof from the main building is observed.

Scheme of connection of strapping and racks

If the terrace strapping beam is allowed not to be planed, then the racks must be pre-planed with an electric planer. This will give them a more aesthetic appearance and simplify further finishing and processing of the veranda. Fasten the racks to the strapping with self-tapping screws using reinforced steel corners. In the upper part, the ends of the beam are attached to the terrace strapping, which is a frame element that serves to increase the strength of the veranda structure.

The top harness is best made from planed timber 100x100. Assembly is carried out on the ground in detail, after which it is installed on the ends of the racks and attached to them. In this case, it is necessary to make sure that the vertical parts are perpendicular in two planes. To do this, use a plumb line or building level.

Stage three - installation of the terrace floor

The step-by-step process of installing a wooden terrace continues with the manufacture of the extension floor. Particular attention should be paid to the correct selection of material, these are operating conditions associated with constant exposure to moisture and sudden changes in temperature.

A standard pine or spruce floorboard is the worst you can get for a veranda. If you decide to use it, you must definitely treat the lumber twice with antiseptic compounds that protect the tree from decay and damage by various microorganisms. Pay special attention to the processing of boards from the end.

The best choice for a veranda floor is a larch floorboard. Its advantages:

resistant to moisture and damage by fungi, mold, insects;
has a beautiful wood structure;
lends itself well to additional processing with protective and decorative compositions.

Instead of larch for outdoor terraces, artificial flooring material - decking is often used.

To improve the decorative properties of the entire product as a whole, flooring can be laid not only traditionally along one of the sides of the terrace, but also at an angle to them. With this method, the expense of the floorboard on the veranda will be increased by 20 percent, but it's worth it. The floor of the terrace is also laid diagonally from the center, which requires precise corner cuts that can be made on a miter circular saw.

Stage 4 - roof installation

A quality roof will help protect visitors to the veranda and flooring from rain and solar heat. Its frame is made of wood, using a vertical strapping of the terrace and a horizontal beam-base, fixed on the wall of the house. When erecting the roof of the veranda, it is necessary to provide for a slope to in relation to the horizon of at least 15-20 ° in order to avoid the accumulation of large masses of snow.

As roofing materials for terraces, both traditional metal sheets or soft roofing, as well as less common glass or colored cellular polycarbonate, are used. Thanks to the use of the latter, the roof of the veranda can have a radius rounding or a domed shape. Of course, this will require the manufacture of a more complex truss system, but it will give the terrace a unique appearance.

Stage 5 - installation of railings, finishing

Wooden railings will help limit the interior space of the veranda and protect visitors from falling. They are made from profiled metal or planed timber. Balusters will add zest to the exterior interior.

After completing the installation of the fence, the wood should be treated with stains, mordants or oil-based paints, in other words, protect and prepare for use.

In this article, we have analyzed the question - how to build a veranda, as it turned out, this is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and step by step algorithm.

At some point in time, you think about the fact that it's time to equip the veranda in your suburban summer cottage. If you choose the right materials and perform high-quality finishing work, then the newly built building will be a great addition to an existing home.

You will not only have a summer recreation area with a brazier, but also increase the usable area of the building. Look at the photo of the veranda to visually see the design features and building options.

DIY veranda

Before embarking on the independent construction of a veranda, look at typical do-it-yourself veranda projects, instructions and diagrams.

The usual average summer resident, who has little experience in the field of construction, begins to confuse an extension with an ordinary terrace for relaxation. There are a huge number of differences between the 2 buildings.

Despite the fact that the terrace is the main extension to the house, it is an open area. It does not look like a single structure with the house. In some cases, a small fence is erected and a stationary roof is constructed.

The veranda is built in such a way that it becomes and looks like a single continuation of the building of the house, complementing the overall ensemble of the building, the extension of the veranda becomes an integral part of the building.

Simply put, a veranda is an additional room in the house, with no permanent heating and ventilation system. Although, installing the latter is not difficult. One of the walls of the veranda becomes one with the house, 3 walls are completely covered with windows to the floor.

The choice of materials for the veranda

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a veranda begin with the choice of materials for a future extension, pay attention to those used in the construction of a country house or cottage. Most often it is a foam block or brick, in some cases the buildings are made of wooden beams.

The easiest way is to make a veranda from a wooden beam, if your house is made of the same material, you are lucky. There are frame schemes from ready-made elements, in our article we will consider a wooden veranda with our own hands.

Different roofing materials are used for the final finishing of the cover. As with the extension itself, you should focus on the roof of the house. You can use shingles, slate, polycarbonate, natural tiles and other materials.

Foundation of the veranda

Like the construction of an ordinary house, the veranda begins to be erected from the arrangement of the very foundation, that is, the foundation. Of course, it will be good if you already have a ready-made veranda project attached to the project of your residential building or cottage. Then the foundation will be made in parallel and combined with the main project of the house.

The optimal choice for the base of the veranda, as well as gazebos, is considered to be a columnar type construction using brick supports. The pitch of the supporting structures should be 50-70 cm.

We place the foundation according to a pre-planned project with a foundation depth of 100 centimeters or more. The layer of sand at the bottom of the pit should be about 20 cm, then we press it. In the case of sandy or problematic soil, crushed stone is added to the sand.

From above, the backfill is poured with molten bitumen. After hardening, this material becomes an excellent waterproofing. Then a layer of mortar from concrete is laid on the surface of the pit. Use leveling tools to achieve a perfectly flat surface.

We lay out brick supports on the foundation. Focus on the height of the flooring 25-30 cm below the base of the house itself, so that the roof of the future veranda can be brought under the roof structure of the country house.

The height of the extension will fully correspond to the premises of ordinary rooms. For better waterproofing, brick supports are coated with bitumen. The voids are filled with rubble.

Veranda frame

The foundation of the veranda and the foundations are ready, you can start building the frame of the structure for the warm veranda with your own hands. We chose a wooden veranda, because this design is simpler and more aesthetically pleasing. For the construction of the veranda, a wooden beam with a section of 100 x 100 mm is used.

At the first stage of construction, a strapping of timber is placed on the foundation supports and the structure is connected to each other using a “thorn groove” or using metal brackets.

Vertical structural elements are fastened with galvanized screws, staples or nails of the required length. In some cases, dowels made of wood are used when holes for their installation are pre-prepared.

Support posts located vertically are installed in those places where the installation of windows and doors will be carried out. When the area of the extension is equal to the length of the wall of the house or is simply large, additional supports are used.

A strapping beam is mounted on the racks, fixed to the anchor bolts.

Roof for the veranda

The simplest version of the roof design for the veranda is a shed construction with a soft bitumen roof. Roofs with horizontal structures are not very convenient from an operational point of view.

DIY photo of the veranda

The veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area, get a place for a comfortable stay. Closed (glazed), it still reduces the heat loss of the house. The best part is that you can make it yourself. And there are options that require solid costs, there are inexpensive ones. There are a lot of varieties both in structure and in the materials used, you can decorate in any style.

What are

According to the method of arrangement, the veranda attached to the house can be closed - with glazing - or open. The open ones are used mainly in the warm period, the closed ones can serve as a place for recreation all year round. The veranda attached to the house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.

There are also walkways - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located from the front of the house, sometimes from the side of the courtyard, if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.

An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.

The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often - a hexagon, a semicircle, other non-standard shapes (it is more difficult to build such ones). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account materials.

An addition around the perimeter gives the house an extravagant look.

What materials are they made from

Most often in our area they make wooden verandas. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, the structural elements are made of metal, and the sheathing is selected to your liking. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.

They build the walls of the veranda from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can just make a fence, as in the photo above.

If the tree is expensive, or reluctant to regularly work with its processing, the frame of the veranda is assembled from metal. For this, a profile pipe, corners or channel is most often used - it depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach glass packs to metal, you can make not glazing, but use polycarbonate. This material can be of different colors and different degrees of transparency. Despite the apparent fragility, there is a fairly durable material that is used to build greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep warm well.

Veranda attached to the house: construction stages

First of all, you need to decide on the type - open / closed, from what material, choose the type of foundation. You also need to decide what size it will have, where and how to be located. All this is desirable to draw on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to the project is rather an exception for us, but at least a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, binding to paths, etc. you should have.

Do-it-yourself construction of a veranda to the house follows the following plan (we build it from wood):

With the help of pegs and twine, mark the contours.
Remove the sod and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the deck will rot, spreading aromas.
Lay out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: how high should it be. If you make the foundation incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you do not want the floor to be lower, you will have to make a high threshold in the front door: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height at which the floor of the extension will be located. It is nailed to the wall of the house, floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is beaten along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is beaten off.
How to mark the extension: nail the support beam at the required level, beat off the height of the foundation along its lower edge
Build a foundation.
While the concrete is gaining at least half the strength, you complete the preparation of the site. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer was removed) the soil passes water well (sandy, sandy loam), crushed stone is poured to the bottom. It can be compacted, but you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit with either the same soil (but not fertile) or pure clay. It must be well compacted so that voids are not created in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay layers soaked to a paste state).
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
Support racks under the roof are exposed and fixed.
They make the strapping of the racks: they nail a timber 100 * 150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed outside the racks or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the best option: the floor will quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to disassemble everything, up to the roof. If you first set the racks, and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.
This is how the assembled frame of the veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.
Floor beams (beam 100 * 150 mm) are attached to the foundation and the supporting beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or posts.
Assemble the truss system.
Side railings (for open) or walls (for glazed) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for the covered ones, it is longer, the open veranda is easier to attach to the house:
- For open beams, floor boards are nailed.
- For glazed make insulated floor. A draft floor is nailed to the beams. Above - logs, between them - a heater, on top - a finishing floor.
Roof laying.
Wall decoration inside and outside.

These are just general steps. To have a more complete picture of how to make a veranda to the house, we will further consider the most problematic moments of construction in more detail.

Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?

Foundation

If the veranda is attached to the house, the foundations are very rarely made connected. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to connect them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which there are no movements. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially open from wood or frame - and the bearing capacity is enough.

In general, they put verandas on the same foundations as at home. Another thing is that most of them stand on columnar bases: the costs are small, it takes a little time. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to put up the correct columnar foundation than (although the tape one is much more expensive), people put the pillars.

Column and pile foundation

If you decide to attach a veranda to a wooden house, you can put a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the posts depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are light materials - wood or light frame construction - you can set them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.

Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of bricks. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on a strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected

When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:

Bury below freezing depth. This is done on water-saturated soils prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand on the same level, without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is not more than 1.2 meters. At great depths, it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Pile holes are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. For the construction of columns for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda, which will be understood and lowered during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” in different ways and you will have to somehow rectify the situation. But this is on heaving soils (clay, loam). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving, there will be no such problems.

What is good about this option for a foundation for a veranda to a house? Quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is small.

The veranda is attached to a brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from the columnar one in that the piles are either screwed in / hammered ready, or poured into the formwork and turn out to be monolithic

Disadvantages: It is difficult to predict its behavior. And both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on the winter and the degree of saturation of the soil with water, which is impossible to foresee and calculate. With deep laying, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, you cannot do a geological survey at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, because of which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deep-buried columns, it is necessary to remember the lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or poles. Therefore, on problematic soils for piles, a strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is taken and they are also reinforced: in the manufacture of pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which masonry is carried out. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. In the manufacture of bored piles, three or four reinforcement bars are necessarily inserted inside, which add strength to them. Attaching a veranda with your own hands on a pile foundation can be quick and inexpensive, but the risks on heaving soils are high.

Monolithic: tape and slab

If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will either have to pour the tape, or make a plate. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Fully tech.

When building such a foundation, it can already be connected with the main one: you will have to make it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.

Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and duration of the construction process.

bedding

If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a scary tale, if it does not have a plinth, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is rammed, then crushed stone is poured, rammed, then sand, which is also compacted. Flooring can already be laid on this base: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.

The veranda attached to the house can be without a foundation

One “but” of the racks on which the roof will rest still needs to be strengthened in some way. For them, small piles are made or columns are folded (from about the same depth where they started laying rubble under the flooring).

How thick should the bedding be? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden boards (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you plan to lay paving slabs, you will have to consider its thickness. Although, it can be slightly raised above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then a curb is placed along the edge.

In this photo, an open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it is rather a summer canopy with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence

How to attach the rack and bottom harness

Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. Enough 50% of the calculated, and this at a temperature of + 20 ° C, will occur in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the racks or strapping will be attached, waterproofing is laid in two layers. It can be roofing material, roofing felt, folded twice. You can double coat with bituminous mastic or use other modern materials.

Then there are two ways:

fix the racks and then the strapping;
first strapping, racks to them.

If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation for racks during pouring. These can be different devices (see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter "P", to the bottom of which a hairpin is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A rack is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is verified, and it is fixed with bolts or nails.

How to fix the racks to the foundation

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, strapping bars are nailed between them.

In the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping bar is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded in concrete with some step. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and fixed with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, racks are installed.

Options for attaching racks to the strapping beam

Any of these methods does not exclude the use of metal corners. They make the mount more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the roof will be held on the racks, and the walls or the fence.

Fastening the lag to the harness

They can be mounted on top of the harness, or on the same level with its upper edge. It is necessary to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: it will depend on what level it will be necessary to attach the support burs to the wall of the house (the height of the lag is taken into account or not). Methods for fixing the floor lag are shown in the photo below.

How to attach the floor logs to the strapping

Veranda roof connection

The veranda attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as scrap. There may be several options and the organization of the adjoining of the roof depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof will be a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to splice two truss systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda adjoins the roof of the house.

Then the procedure is:

Top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the strapping. The ceiling is then hemmed to them.
The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
The rafters of the veranda are made from a planed board, which are cut off at an angle from the side of the roof so that they adjoin the existing ones (see the photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. Rafter legs are attached to the system of the house through nails, you can put metal reinforcing plates on the side.
To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.

If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed so that the support beam does not sag. It is better not to nail them on the side, namely, to insert them by surprise between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.

In order to prevent sagging of the roof, spacers are installed between the ceiling beams and rafters.

More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house adjoins the wall. In this case, a strobe is made in the wall, a special wall profile is laid into it, which is laid on the roofing with the second side. The place where it adjoins the wall is sealed with sealant.

The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover up possible errors when laying the roofing material at the junction. Also, in this embodiment, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge mounted in a strobe.

The second option for adjoining the roof of the extension to the wall of the house

Some questions may arise on how to attach the rafters to the outer upper trim, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on a Mauerlat. The usual solution: with the help of corners (see photo). Instead of corners, small cross-section bars can be used.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After everything is covered with roofing from above, the lining will be lined from below, they will not be visible.

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