Planting garlic before winter must be carried out at strictly defined times. When to plant garlic in the fall When to plant winter garlic

Garlic is a favorite spicy vegetable of many nations. Without it, it is impossible to imagine the taste of many dishes and pickles. Nutritionists advise consuming garlic daily, because in addition to the spicy taste, it has many beneficial properties and has bactericidal qualities. That is why the spicy vegetable is popular among gardeners who plant both spring and winter garlic on the beds. Its cultivation and care will not take much time, but in order for the harvest to be good and of high quality, you need to know: when to plant garlic in spring and autumn, how to plant garlic and how to care for it. We talked about all this in detail in our article.

Plants whose fruits grow and develop in the ground are recommended to be planted on the waning moon. During the “rest” of the Moon, the growth of the stems stops, and all the juices and strength go into the root system. As a result, the heads of garlic grow well, develop and become large. In order for the green sprout of a spicy vegetable to grow faster, many summer residents plant garlic cloves and heads in the initial phase of the growing moon.

When to plant garlic in spring?


It is recommended to plant garlic cloves no later than the first decade of April. Such landing dates are suitable for residents of central Russia. In the Urals and Siberia, the soil on the site begins to thaw only at the end of April, so garlic is planted here in May.

According to the lunar calendar, in 2019 the following dates are favorable for planting spring garlic:

  1. March - this month the vegetable is planted in the southern regions of the country. The best days for planting: 1, 2, 3, 4, from 24 to 30.
  2. April - favorable days: 3, 21, 23, 26, 30.
  3. May - The moon wanes at the beginning and at the end of the month, so landings are recommended: 4, 20, 22, 23, 26, 31.

Astrologers do not advise planting on the following days of spring:

  • March: 5, 6, 21, 31;
  • April: 5 and 19;
  • May: 5 and 19.

When to plant garlic in the fall?


Winter garlic is planted in the fall 35-45 days before the onset of frosty days. Therefore, in the northern regions of the country, they begin to plant in August, in Siberia and the Urals in September, in central Russia they plant vegetables in October, and in the southern regions in November or even December. But in any case, the landing time depends on the weather conditions. It is necessary to plant garlic in the fall so that it does not yet have time to start growing, and forms a root system, about 10 cm long.

Favorable days for planting garlic in the fall of 2019:

  • August: from 19 to 24;
  • September: from 18 to 23 and 30;
  • October: from 16 to 22;
  • November: from 16 to 23.

If it is not possible to plant a spring type of vegetable these days, then you can start planting on any other day, except for unfavorable dates:

  • August: 1 and 15;
  • September: 14 and 28;
  • October: 14 and 28;
  • November: 12 and 26;
  • December: 12 and 26.

Since the plant is planted early in the spring and the soil is still frozen at this time, the bed for planting is prepared in the fall. Best of all, a spicy vegetable grows in loamy, neutral and fertile soil. During digging, for each square meter of the garden, it contributes:

  • humus - 1 bucket;
  • potassium salt - 20 grams;
  • superphosphate - 30 grams.

Planting material preparation

Plant garlic with cloves, which should be straight and healthy. Soft, damaged and twisted planting material is rejected.

The selected teeth are placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, after which they are disinfected in one of three solutions:

  • 1% solution of copper sulfate;
  • weak solution of potassium permanganate;
  • ash solution, which is prepared from a liter of water and 20 grams of ash (the mixture must be boiled and cooled for 30 minutes).

In a solution of copper sulfate and potassium permanganate, the planting material is kept for 12 hours, and in an ash solution for 2 hours.

After what crop can garlic be planted?

Planting spring garlic in spring

Two days before planting in open ground, spring garlic can be wrapped in a damp cloth and polyethylene so that it germinates. Grooves are made in the garden with a distance of 20-25 cm, and with a depth of 7 to 9 cm. The teeth are placed at a distance of about 7 cm from each other (you need to make sure that their bottom is located at the bottom). Dry soil after planting is watered, and if the soil is moist, then watering is not required.

A bed for winter garlic is prepared two weeks before planting. This type of spicy vegetable is usually larger than spring, so the grooves for it are made 15-20 cm deep, at a distance of 8 to 15 cm. The distance between the grooves depends on the size of the cloves.

Winter garlic can also be planted with bulbs (air bulbs), which are arranged according to the 2X10 cm pattern to a depth of 3 cm.

After planting before winter, it is recommended to mulch the bed with a mixture of sawdust with soil or dry peat with a layer of 2 cm. When the snow falls, the shelter will need to be removed.

How to grow large garlic?

Caring for garlic is quite simple, however, in order to get a good harvest and large heads, you need to carry out some procedures:

  1. Watering garlic. If it rains regularly in spring and summer, then the beds with spicy vegetables can not be watered. In dry weather, plantings are watered abundantly, using from 10 to 12 liters of water per square meter. In order for the heads to gain volume and weight, watering must be stopped in August.
  2. Weeding and loosening. These are mandatory procedures that are recommended to be carried out after rain or watering.
  3. Removing arrows. In order for the forces of the plant to be spent on the development of the onion, as soon as the arrows are formed, they must be removed.
  4. Feeding garlic. During the season, plants are fertilized only four times. The first time, top dressing is applied as soon as the greens appear, and the second time - two weeks after the first. Urea, mullein or Fertak's top dressing are used as fertilizer. All these fertilizers contain nitrogen necessary for the development of bulbs.
  5. Protection from diseases and pests. In order for the plants to be affected as little as possible by diseases and pests, it is necessary to process the teeth before planting and observe the crop rotation. It is better not to use insecticides and fungicides for the prevention and treatment of garlic, since the heads will absorb all the poisons.

When to dig winter and spring garlic

At the end of July, you can start harvesting winter garlic, and from mid-August, they begin to harvest spring garlic. The fact that it's time to dig a spicy vegetable can be recognized by the following signs:

  • the feathers turned yellow and died;
  • no new feathers are formed;
  • heads acquired the desired volume and color.

You need to collect the vegetable on time, otherwise it will start growing again, its onion will decay and become unsuitable for storage in winter.

Unstorable head of garlic

The heads are pulled out of the ground or dug with a pitchfork and laid out on a bed to dry. That is why cleaning should be done in dry weather. The dried earth is shaken off the bulbs and hung up for a week to dry in a room with a temperature of about +30 degrees. If the temperature outside is within +25 degrees and there is no rain, then the heads can be hung under a canopy and dried for 10 days.

If garlic is intended for long-term storage, then after it dries, its roots and greens are cut off. For arrowing varieties, the neck should be left 2 cm long, and for non-shooting varieties - about 5 cm.

How to store garlic in winter?

Spring varieties are best stored, and winter varieties are capricious, quickly dry out and are affected by rot. Conditions for storing garlic:

  1. The air temperature for winter garlic should be from +2 to + 4 degrees, and for spring - from +16 to +20 degrees.
  2. Humidity in the room should be in the range of 60-80%.

Heads can be folded into baskets and stored on a veranda or glazed loggia. Garlic is stored for a long time if it is put in boxes and sprinkled with salt.

In private houses, a spicy vegetable is stored under the roof of attics or sheds, after tying the heads in a bunch. If the false stem is not cut off, then it is woven into braids and hung under the ceiling of a ventilated and cool room. Onions can not be tied, but simply folded with a net or a nylon stocking.

When storing garlic in the winter at home, it is necessary to regularly sort out the heads, throwing out those that begin to deteriorate.

As you can see, planting and caring for garlic is quite simple and will not take much time. If everything is done correctly, then by the fall large heads of healthy vegetables will grow on the beds, which can be stored at home in the winter.

To get a decent harvest of garlic, you do not need elite seeds or any complicated care rules.

It is enough to properly prepare the planting material and plant them in a sunny area in a timely manner, keeping in mind the seed shift.

Selection of planting material

Experienced gardeners pay special attention to the quality of planting material, because by planting something that does not fit the table, you can get a crop that you don’t even want to harvest.

This is due to the fact that the vegetative propagation method - the most common option for planting garlic - not only allows you to get a full crop in one season, but also leads to the rapid spread of diseases.

After all, the defeat of the uterine bulb is the presence of a pest on each tooth. In addition, small teeth are simply unable to turn into bulbs worthy of an exhibition in the time allotted for ripening.

For planting select large bulbs with tightly adjacent to each other, well-developed cloves. The bottom of the garlic head should be dry and clean, free from dark damp spots and mold.

The garlic cloves should be firm and not show any signs of yellowing or browning. If at least one tooth is soft or empty to the touch, the head is discarded, since the rest are also infected, despite the absence of signs.

Garlic is disassembled into teeth immediately before planting or a maximum of a day before it, doing this with extreme caution so as not to damage the protective scales.

For seeds, large slices are selected from the outer row of the head. Small teeth of the inner layers are used only in conditions of acute shortage of planting material, since they develop worse and their yield is an order of magnitude lower.










Planting dates for garlic

Most gardeners plant winter garlic closer to stable cold weather, which is fundamentally wrong and is applicable only in regions with frosty dry winters.

With this option, garlic does not have time to develop a strong root system before the onset of stable cold weather and continues to build it up in the spring. As a result, the crop ripens too early and consists mainly of small bulbs.

Where the climate pleases with relatively mild winters, the absence of prolonged bitter frosts and heavy snowfalls, beds of winter varieties must be formed starting from the second decade of September.

Subject to the deadlines, garlic has time to develop strong roots and foliage, but does not have time to form a head.

After hibernation, with the onset of the first warm days, it wakes up and continues to grow along with daylight hours. It ripens almost a month later than its counterparts planted under frost, having managed to grow a bulb with a large number of large teeth.

Ardent garlic is usually planted in early spring, even before the arrival of steady heat.

If January or February pleased with a prolonged thaw, and the soil has melted to a state suitable for planting, do not waste time and start your gardening season in winter. Subsequent frosts will only benefit the ardent varieties.

And having started to grow with a still fairly short day, it will form a fairly large bulb with a large number of covering scales. The vegetation period with early planting is significantly reduced, and the crop is stored much better than late planted heads.

We form beds

Regardless of the variety, garlic loves sunny areas with light, moderately moist soil. The soil for planting is prepared in advance: loosened and fertilized.

Organic fertilizers, such as rotted manure, are most preferable. In preparation, the beds are watered and mulched with sand.

Immediately before planting, prophylactic treatment of the teeth is carried out: they are soaked for 10-15 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then the teeth are planted to a depth of 7-10 cm, avoiding indentation into the ground.

There should be about 10 cm between adjacent plants in a row, and at least 40 cm between rows. When growing “on the table”, you can save space by reducing the distance between the teeth to 5-7 cm.

You should not plant garlic in the place where potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, beets, onions or garlic grew last year. Cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage and peppers are considered good predecessors.

Winter varieties are prone to degeneration, so planting material is changed every three to four years. For a change, air onions are ideal - bulbs, which are formed on garlic arrows.

To increase the size of the heads in winter varieties, it is customary to cut the arrows. Just cut off, at the level of the upper leaves, but in no case pull out.

Photo ideas on how to plant garlic

Winter garlic is planted in the fall. Planting garlic in the fall allows you to get a crop much earlier than in the case of spring, and it is much better stored. And although the variety is very popular, not all gardeners know how to grow it. The article will describe how, where and when to plant winter garlic, as well as give valuable advice on planting technology and further care for the crop.

How to choose a variety and prepare garlic for planting?

All winter garlic can be divided into two subgroups - shooters and non-shooters. The first has 5-12 teeth in the head, they are large, weighty, located around the center arrow. Non-shooting varieties of arrows do not have, their teeth are small and spiral outward from the center. Of the arrowing varieties, the following are popular: Lyubasha, Gribovsky 60, Antonik, Alcor. Of the non-shooters, it is worth mentioning the following varieties: "Healer", "Losevsky", "Podmoskovny".

Heads for selecting seeds for sowing are selected full-fledged. If there are 3-4 teeth in the head - this is bad material, it should not be taken. For the autumn planting of garlic, you need to select the best planting material: whole, healthy, of moderate size. The day before planting, it is sorted out, individual teeth are separated. It is not recommended to do this before, as the garlic can dry out.

To protect the planting material from diseases and improve germination in the spring, you can soak it in a salt solution (1 tablespoon / 2 liters of water), and then in a solution of potassium permanganate. An alternative could be a solution of copper sulfate or special preparations: "Barrier", "Barrier", "Fitosporin", etc. It is important to understand that an excess of such funds can lead to early germination of the plant right in winter, and not in spring, as expected.

When and where should garlic be planted?

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Planting garlic in the fall in open ground is carried out from September 30 to October 20. During this long period of time, you need to have time to do all the work so that by mid-October it will be planted. Although in different regions, the extreme numbers can vary greatly. The fact is that the main task of the gardener is to plant the crop before frost so that it has time to take root, but if you do this very early, the garlic can germinate strongly and the entire crop will freeze over the winter. Therefore, it is best not to be equal to any dates, but to look at the temperature. During the planting of the crop on the street should be about 13-15 degrees Celsius.

The plant grows well in the place where legumes, cabbage, greens or pumpkin previously grew. At the same time, a sunny, bright, not low-lying place is selected for the plant, so that there is not much moisture, the best option is a plain.

How to prepare the soil for winter planting?

The earth is prepared 2 weeks before the autumn planting of garlic. The first step is to remove all excess grass, weeds. Then fertilizers are applied. The type of fertilizer may be different - depending on the type of land on the site. During fertilization, the earth is dug up to a depth of 20 cm. Humus is added to the sandy soil (5-6 kg / sq. M.), Peat is added to the clay soil (1 bucket / sq. M.), Chalk can be added to the loamy soil, dolomite flour.

It is important to note that it is not recommended to fertilize the land for cultivation with manure or nitrogen means, since weeds grow from them, which can “strangle” the head of garlic with their roots.

How to plant garlic?

Planting garlic in the fall begins no earlier than 2 weeks after fertilizing the soil. The earth is well leveled, the weeds that have appeared are removed. Then rows are made at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other, depending on the volume of planting material.

The depth of the pits directly depends on the size of the teeth, if they are small, then 4-5 cm, and if large - 7 cm. A distance of 7-10 cm (palm length) is left between the holes. Holes or holes can be made with any tool (hoe, pegs, garden shovel, etc.). Pour a little wood ash into each hole - this is the best fertilizer for teeth for the entire winter period.

After the preparatory work, you can land. To do this, individual teeth are placed at the bottom of the pits and lightly sprinkled with earth. You can not press them into the ground, as this can damage the teeth. A clove is planted in the hole along with the skin, otherwise the applied fertilizers can “burn” it.

How to care for garlic before winter?

Watering at this time of the year is very limited, the reason for the frequent rains and the fact that the plant cannot grow quickly, otherwise the winter frosts will destroy it. Care is limited to weeding. You can also mulch the bed with the plant with a layer of dried grass or sawdust. Mulch will keep moisture in the ground and protect crops from severe frosts.

When to plant garlic before winter and what and how, so as not to be late with the landing and the onset of frost did not destroy the culture? Let's talk about the timing and other subtleties of planting winter garlic.

Experienced gardeners know that the planting time for this crop should be chosen accurately.

Important! If you are late with planting in the fall, then the garlic will not have time to take root. Planting too early will produce shoots that will also die in a cold winter.

The wrong time to plant garlic in the fall will lead to the loss of part of the crop or to its complete death. In order for it not to freeze and give a rich harvest, there are some rules.

When to plant garlic before winter

The main rule is that garlic should be planted before the arrival of frosty days. The ideal time for planting is 15-20 days before frost. When the air temperature in the region stays around +5 degrees for 2 weeks, then the crop needs to be planted, as it will be cold soon.

Interesting! According to lunar calendar for central Russia, including the Moscow region, this time falls on the end of September - the beginning of October. In regions with a warm climate, the procedure for planting crops is scheduled for the month of November.

What kind of garlic can be planted

There are 2 types of garlic:

  • winter;
  • spring.

They have different characteristics and have many differences among themselves. Need to know what kind of garlic is planted before winter. This is a winter species, which has obvious differences in size, taste, ripening and storage time.

Winter

A distinctive feature of this species is the head, which consists of 4-12 fairly large teeth. They are covered with a pink film with purple streaks. The teeth are held by a strong rod.

The taste of winter garlic is sharp, even burning. This type is usually used for various preparations for the winter. Also, it is used for sowing. In its pure form, it is not left for storage in the winter season.

Spring

This species does not have a stem. Small cloves in the amount of up to 25 pieces are collected in a circle in several rows. It tastes much softer than winter. It can be stored throughout the winter until warm spring days.

Winter and spring garlic are also divided into the following groups:

  • shooter;
  • non-shooting.

arrowed

These types of garlic release an arrow during the ripening period. Air bulbs are formed on it, in which children are placed. They can be planted in the ground to produce single teeth, which can then be planted in the fall. Consider several arrow varieties of garlic.

Alekseevsky. A fruitful variety with a large head. Weight can reach up to 180 g. Some specimens reach up to 240 g. The scaly coating is gray. There are approximately 5 large teeth in the head. The plant itself looks impressive, it can grow up to 1.5 m in height (with an arrow). It is perfectly stored for a long time. The taste is intense. The variety is valued for its resistance to Fusarium.

Gulliver. This variety has a large head weighing about 120 g. The largest garlic can reach up to 250 g. The coating is gray, the taste is burning. There are about 12 cloves in one head. The mid-late variety Gulliver can be planted not only for the winter, but also in the spring.

Belorussian. The head of this variety of garlic weighs about 80 g. It contains up to 8 cloves. The finish is white with purple strokes. The variety belongs to early ripening.

Lyubasha. The ripening period of this culture is medium. The head of garlic is not small and weighs up to 120 g. It usually contains 7 cloves. Garlic has a spicy taste.

Nazus. Usually this variety is planted by gardeners living in cold regions. One head of garlic, which contains 5-6 cloves, weighs about 65 g. The vegetable is covered with red-white scales. Refers to the mid-season type.

Non-shooting

This group of plants does not develop an arrow.

Novosibirsk. The variety has small heads, weighing 22 g and about 6 cloves inside.

Cover color is light pink. The taste of garlic is not as sharp as its counterparts. The variety is mid-season, gives a good harvest.

Podmoskovny. Mid-season variety, which is endowed with a sharp taste. One bulb can weigh up to 60 g.

Inside there are 6-8 cloves. The color of the coating of the vegetable is gray with purple splashes.

After which crops to plant

Years of gardening experience has shown after which cultures on the site sow winter garlic on the site. The vegetable grows well in the area where its predecessors were:

  • legumes,
  • cucumbers,
  • tomatoes,
  • pumpkin,
  • early cabbage,
  • zucchini.

After these crops, the land is rich in organic fertilizers and minerals.

Do not plant a vegetable for the winter in the garden where it previously grew:

  • potato.

The fact is that garlic is susceptible to such diseases (fusarium, nematode, etc.), so there is a risk of infection.

Important! On land that has recently been fertilized with manure, garlic cannot be planted for the winter.

Garlic will “leave” in the green with abundant tops, and the heads of garlic will be loose, which will make them vulnerable to various diseases.

Watch the video! Proper planting of garlic in the fall

How to plant

Choosing a place for winter garlic

For planting garlic in the fall, you should choose the most fertile land, which has normal or low acidity. It will be better if the site is located on the sunny side. The beds should be arranged in a north-south direction.

Soil preparation

The land must be prepared in advance. You can work from the end of August to mid-September. First, add fertilizer to the soil. To do this, prepare a mixture:

  • humus - 10 kg,
  • ash - 2 cups,
  • chalk - 1 glass,
  • potassium sulfate - 2 tbsp,
  • superphosphate - 1 tbsp.

Important! This amount of fertilizer is applied per square meter. The fertilized area must be dug well to a depth of 20 cm.

We are preparing a garden

Before planting garlic, it is imperative to form a bed correctly. It should have the following parameters: width - up to 1 m, height - up to 25 cm.

Soil settling time

After the site has been dug up, it is necessary to give time for the shrinkage of the earth. If there is not enough rain at the beginning of autumn, then you can water the bed several times with water.

It is important to know, when to plant vegetable. A big mistake of gardeners is to rush when planting garlic without waiting for the soil to shrink. This negatively affects its development. Over time, the earth will still settle, and the planted cloves will be deeper in the ground than expected. In the spring, they will need more time to germinate.

We cultivate the soil

It is necessary to carry out another important procedure before planting winter garlic. In order to prevent infection of the culture, the area should be treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

To prepare it, you need to take:

  • 1 tbsp copper sulphate;
  • to a bucket of water.

Using a watering can, water the entire bed for sowing with this solution. One bucket of liquid is enough for approximately 2 square meters of area. Immediately before planting a vegetable, scatter urea over the area (10-20 g per 1 sq.m). Then pour water over it.

How to prepare garlic for planting

Before landing work, you need to familiarize yourself with what kind of garlic can be planted in the autumn, as well as with the rules for preparing vegetables for planting.

  • We disassemble the head into teeth. We carefully sort out all the cloves and select the largest, dry and healthy ones. Teeth of non-shooting varieties for planting should be selected only from the outer layer.
  • Disinfection. Healthy cloves, which were selected for planting in the fall, are soaked for 24 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.1%). You can also use a solution of copper sulfate (1%).

Single tooth planting

We create holes

After preparing the site, we plan places for the holes. For this purpose, you can use an ordinary stick, with which we make holes in the soil every 10 centimeters. We place the rows at a distance of 20-25 cm from one another.

Depending on how the garlic is planted, the depth of the holes can vary from 3 to 15 cm.

Deepen the garlic cloves

Place one healthy clove of garlic in each well. It is not recommended to press them into the ground, as this can cause late root formation. Dry soil should be watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We fill the holes with rotted prepared compost.

We mulch the garden

As a mulch, the layer of which should be about 10 cm, you can use:

  • dry leaves,
  • needles,
  • peat.

Advice! In warm areas, beds with planted garlic for the winter do not need to be mulched.

An alternative way to plant winter garlic

Gardeners use this method in rare cases, but it has its advantages.

  • First, you need to fertilize the area where winter garlic will be planted.

In the last days of August, the following fertilizers are applied per sq.m:

  • potassium sulfate - 2 tbsp;
  • superphosphate - 1 tbsp;
  • humus - 10 kg;
  • wood ash - 2 cups;
  • chalk - 1 glass.

Fertilizer is applied in dry form to the entire area.

  • Now it is necessary to carry out high-quality cultivation of the soil. For faster shrinkage, it should be well watered. If it rains at this time, then watering is not needed.
  • An important point of this method is the planting of oats, peas and white mustard along the beds for garlic. We place the rows of these crops 35-45 cm from the prepared beds.
  • A couple of days before the procedure for planting a vegetable, top dressing is applied:
    • 10-20 g of urea per 1 sq.m.;
    • After that, the entire area is well watered.
  • In early October, peas and oats will already grow over 20 cm in height. Now is the time to plant garlic in the beds located between the green shoots.

Although this method is not as popular among gardeners, it is quite effective. The foliage of the crops will collect snow in the area, so the garlic will be provided with a warm covering. With the advent of warm spring days, it will be provided with moisture.

Watch the video! Planting garlic before winter

If you haven't planted garlic this fall yet, now is the time to do so. Moreover, garlic can be planted before winter both winter and spring - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than planted in spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

Garlic is winter, which is planted before winter, and it is spring, which is planted in spring. The difference between winter garlic and spring garlic lies in the fact that winter garlic has a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not shoot. It reproduces only by teeth.

Outwardly, they are easy to distinguish: spring has two rows of small teeth, and winter - one row, usually of 4-6 large teeth. Winter garlic, respectively, gives a flower arrow in the middle of summer, but the seeds ripen only in the southern regions. But at the end of the arrow at the end of July, small onion bulbs are formed, which are used to propagate garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only with cloves, since it does not produce seeds or bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it is well stored in the apartment in winter.

Both spring and winter garlic do well only in fertile soil, moisture and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate a little shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clay soils, soils poor in organic matter, as well as on acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frost, it sprouts early in the spring, because after planting the root system of garlic has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively, planted in open ground with cloves in the fall. As a rule, gardeners use their own planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, seduced by the beautiful appearance of the garlic heads, buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, winters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in the Northwest region.

If the cloves are without traces of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there is any doubt about diseases, then soak the cloves before planting for half an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-West region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. If planted too late (late October in the North-West region), the root system does not have time to grow, and garlic with early frosts from the ground sticks out. But even in this case, if in the spring you again deepen it into the soil by about 5 cm, it will yield a crop, but somewhat later than usual.

I have been planting garlic a little differently for many years. I prepare the bed around the middle of August, two weeks before planting. I bring in compost (bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, a liter jar of ash) for every meter of plantings. I lightly dig a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I don't use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I spend on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, mark up 15x15 cm and even 20x20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when used and I prefer to grow garlic, in which the teeth are medium in size, so I mark up according to the 10x pattern 10 cm

I pour a tablespoon of coarse river sand into each hole, lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer, then lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After that, I close up the plantings with soil. The sand introduced into the wells creates a microdrainage around the tooth, and then around the growing head of garlic, therefore, it saves it from waterlogging.

From such a great depth, garlic does not sprout in autumn (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it rises, do not worry, it will winter well. Garlic, planted in August, has time to grow a good root system during the long autumn and rises early in the spring. Plants stand as a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not need any feeding all season. Such garlic ripens a month earlier than the one that was planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When a flower arrow appears on garlic planted in any way, it should immediately be broken out. No twisting and tying of the tops does not get rid of the arrow, but it harms the plant, because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, an infection enters the resulting tissue damage and ruptures, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow in order for the bulbs to grow. As soon as the cover on the flower arrow bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They will be required to improve their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. To do this, in the summer you can leave a few large arrows of garlic, sow seeds from ripe bulbs in the fall into the ground. The next year, the heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After the lower leaves of the garlic have turned yellow, it can be dug up, preferably with a pitchfork, not a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, having tied it in loose bundles, hung in the attic or in the attic to dry. When the nutrients from the leaves are completely transferred to the head, the leaves will dry out.

How to store garlic at home

Plants need to cut the roots, remove excess husks, weave a braid and hang it in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly set it on fire. This will protect the head from premature moisture loss. Then spread the dried garlic in three-liter jars, tie a hole with a cloth and put it on the windowsills to be stored. Do not store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic disassembled into individual cloves in jars, sprinkling it with salt. This method does not give anything but an extra waste of salt, because the salt takes all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Should not be planted in waterlogged soil - cloves can rot in wet and cold soil. So there is no need to hurry, although garlic is cold-resistant, and it can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Care for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. Pests and diseases they have in common with onions.

Dig up spring garlic later than winter, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, immediately dig up, because the head can crumble into individual teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of a kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, unlike the generally accepted planting of spring garlic in the spring, just plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then his teeth will be almost the same size as that of the winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

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