What applies to outbuildings? Building a utility block with your own hands: personal experience

Outbuildings are an integral part of country life. A country house, dacha or cottage is not complete without the necessary outbuildings that create additional amenities. A summer gazebo, a garage, a stable, a barn for birds and animals - all this and much more are attributes of country life.

Turnkey projects of houses and outbuildings

Depending on the design, outbuildings can be either separate or form a complex. Everything will depend on your desires and available space. Buildings look most harmonious if they fit into the overall design and represent a single whole with the main building. Therefore, you need to think about placing outbuildings in a country house or countryside from the moment you start thinking about building a house. Of course, buildings can be included in a finished project, but this requires some experience.

Outbuildings at a dacha or a personal plot provide the necessary comfort. In our catalog you will find a large number of ready-made projects, and if desired, they can be remade or optimized for your needs. Our architects will do everything necessary to ensure that every square meter of your site is used with maximum efficiency.

An individual approach to each project allows us to achieve the desired result as much as possible. Depending on the wishes of the customer, outbuildings can be made of one material or another. Here you will find both budget options and projects that can satisfy the most demanding customer.

Our company has many years of experience in designing country houses and outbuildings. That’s why we offer a multi-year guarantee on all our company’s projects, and also provide post-construction support and maintenance.

We offer projects:

• Saraev;
• Buildings for animals;
• Outbuildings with a garage;
• According to the German model;
• Frame buildings.

High-quality and functional projects for every taste; we take on objects of any complexity and make your wishes come true. Outbuildings for different tastes and in the shortest possible time.

Ready-made solutions, free drawings with dimensions, photos, various configuration options.

Characteristics of the presented buildings:
- type of small building: adjoining buildings.

Key points of cooperation with us:

• Full control over the implementation of all stages of construction,
• clear systematization of work stages,
• compliance with all standards.

Number of outbuilding projects - 39 pcs.
Price for projects from - 20,240 rub.
Projects with area from - 1 m2

When settling in a summer cottage, the first thing they do is build a utility block from various materials and different sizes. In many cases, this is just a change house or temporary shelter until a permanent structure is built, but some people strive to create amenities almost like in an apartment.

Options for utility room - choose for your needs

Building a utility block with your own hands after purchasing a plot is the next task for its owner. Why do it on your own, because you can buy a change house or order construction? There are several reasons why many people prefer to build themselves. Firstly, the financial issue: after purchasing a plot, not everyone will have the money to purchase a utility unit or pay for construction by contractors.

Secondly, many cabins available for sale often cause dissatisfaction with those who bought them because their service life is too short. And thirdly, if you have construction experience and leftover material, you can build a utility block yourself, not of a standard type, but based on your needs. It will last a long time economically, and the experience gained during its construction will be useful in the future.

Having bought several acres, summer residents strive to immediately build a reliable utility unit for various purposes:

• as housing until the house is built, in order to later remodel it for other needs;
• outbuilding for equipment and other property;
• as a dressing room, pantry, bathroom, summer kitchen;
• as sheds for rabbits, poultry, and livestock.

The utility block is a universal room; everyone can adapt it to their needs. If the owners spend a lot of time working on the land at their summer cottage, then they will think about a rest room, about a bed in it to spend the night. A small compact structure can look like a simple barn or a house from a fairy tale. It all depends on the needs, capabilities, and priorities of the owner.

Materials and projects - what and what to build from

Construction begins with the foundation and ends with the roof. There is no particular choice in materials here. The foundation is made strip or columnar. For tape you need sand, cement, crushed stone or concrete blocks. Columnar is made of brick or stone. Recently, asbestos-cement pipes have been used, which are filled with concrete. The utility block is usually covered with inexpensive material: slate or corrugated sheeting.

The construction of walls often confronts a summer resident with the problem of choosing a material. One should proceed from several factors: cost, labor intensity, thermal protection, if they are going to live in the utility block in the winter. Cheap material will save money, and lightweight material (panels, aerated concrete) will allow you to build a cheaper foundation. Large blocks, panels, sip panels, boards, and corrugated wall sheeting will significantly speed up construction.

To build a utility block, one of the simplest schemes is increasingly used - frame.

Having sorted out the material, we decide on the purpose and, accordingly, the dimensions, and make drawings. The smallest storage shed, which can also serve as a temporary shelter, has dimensions of 3.5 x 2.5 m. If we expect to have a warehouse, a room separated by a partition, or a corner for cooking in the utility unit, we will need dimensions of 4.5 x 3.0 m. In both cases, it is impossible to find a place for a bathroom; you will have to install a toilet and shower in the yard. A 6×3 utility block will allow you to place everything you need for living with minimal amenities.

Frame project 6×3 – how much material is needed

Let's look at how to build a 6x3 m utility block, how much and what material will be needed. We focus on one option, because it is impossible to consider all the diversity. If the dimensions of your frame structure differ, it is easy to calculate the amount of material by increasing or decreasing it.

When starting construction, we make sure to draw a drawing as best we can, and based on it, we draw up a list of materials. You shouldn’t rush into this; it’s better to think it through carefully until you find the ideal option.

You will need bars 100×100 mm:

• for lower and upper frames 6 m long - 6 pieces, three-meter ones - 8;
• for vertical supports – 2.4 m – 11 pieces;
• 2 pieces of 6.6 m each for rafters;
• plus horizontal bars on doors and windows.

Boards needed:

• 20 pieces 25×150 mm for the floor, the same number for the ceiling or replace with another material (plywood, fiberboard, etc.);
• for the sheathing – 7 pcs. 25×100 6 m long;
• for windshields the same 2 pieces, but 3.6 m long;
• for fastening rafters – 50×100×3600 – 6 pieces.

If we are making a metal frame for a building, we focus on the length of the lumber. We calculate the amount of material for the foundation and covering based on the size of the building. If the foundation is strip, you will need quite a lot of sand, cement, and crushed stone. The columnar one will cost much less; for a frame utility block it is a good option.

We begin construction - foundation and lower trim

We make a columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 150 mm. First, we mark the place for the foundation: remove the turf and a layer of earth to the depth of a spade bayonet. Fill it with 10 cm of sand and tamp it down well. At the place where the pipes are installed, we dig holes 1.2 m deep, fill the bottom with sand, and tamp them. We place pipes of the required length into the holes.

Using a building level, we check the verticality, horizontality and correct location around the perimeter of the building. We fix the position by filling the space between the poles and the ground with sand. We fill the pipes inside with concrete or cement-sand mortar. First, fill it to a third of the length, lift it slightly so that the solution goes into the hole and forms a solid base at the bottom. We fill the pipes to the top, compacting the concrete so that cavities do not form. In the center of each pipe we place an anchor to secure the frame frame.

While the foundation takes several weeks to gain strength, we prepare the frame. We make a rectangle from 10x10 cm beams, fastening the corners into half a tree, fixing it with nails and self-tapping screws. To strengthen the frame, we install logs across it inside. We treat the wood for the frame, as well as for the entire structure, with antiseptics or twice hot drying oil. At the top of each column we lay roofing material for waterproofing. Place the frame on the anchors and tap lightly to mark the locations for the holes. We drill holes, install the lower trim on the foundation, securing it with nuts on the anchors.

Continuation of work - erecting a frame, assembling rafters and roofing

We begin assembling the frame from the ends, fastening the building materials to the lower frame using metal corners. To strengthen the fixation, you can install diagonal struts from beams or temporarily fasten them with a board using self-tapping screws. We assemble the front part of the frame, installing the vertical posts, then the rear. The distance between the posts is 1.8 m. We strengthen the frame with diagonal struts made of beams.

Don’t forget about windows and doors, creating openings in the places where they are installed. The size of the doorway is 2x0.85 m. We install crossbars for the windows: the lower horizontal at a height of 80 cm from the frame, the upper - 1 m from the bottom. If we plan to arrange several sections inside, we install partitions. We finally fasten the frame racks at the top with beams.

We make the roof depending on the method of assembling the frame. If the building has front and back sides of different heights, we install rafters on the longitudinal beams of the walls and attach the sheathing to them. If the walls are the same height, we assemble the rafters on the ground, and then install the finished ones on top. We create the necessary slope by raising the front part by 50 cm. But you should keep in mind that one person will not be able to lift them, so if there is no assistant, we assemble them at the top.

We cover the roof, lay the floor, sheathe the walls

Immediately after assembling the frame, we cover the roof. The list of available roofing materials is large, so we make the sheathing for large sheets sparse, and for rolled material - continuous. Before laying the floor, it is advisable to insulate the subfloor: fill the openings between the pillars with any material, fasten them with cement mortar, and fill the inside with expanded clay. We lay the floor from the boards along the joists.

We cover the walls, starting from the front wall, going from bottom to top. The material can be different: boards, lining, siding, corrugated sheets, etc. We insulate with glass wool; it is not advisable to use polystyrene foam - mice adore it. from the inside, we make partitions, install windows, hang doors - the utility block is ready and, undoubtedly, will become a decoration of the land plot.

In any debate about the advantages of living in a country house over living in a city apartment, there is an indestructible argument - comfort. Comfort is when you don’t have to worry about parking, cars stand quietly in a garage on the site, a workbench with tools is conveniently located in a well-equipped workshop, a pond is dug next to the bathhouse, and in the chicken coop the hens lay eggs in which no examination will detect any foreign chemicals. impurities - the freshest, right for breakfast.

In this article, FORUMHOUSE experts and participants analyze how to correctly locate outbuildings on a site with the convenience of the owners and in accordance with regulatory documents, how much space a particular building needs, how they should stand in relation to each other, the house and the neighbors’ land.

Placement of outbuildings on the site: we think about convenience

The main difference from living in an apartment is that people live outside the city. He spends a lot of time in the yard, garden and vegetable garden, so experts advise: more attention to functionality! Imagine how many annoying, unnecessary actions you will have to do in your life due to the placement of the garage in a place that is constantly flooded in the spring, that the terrace of the bathhouse is open to the views of everyone who passes along the street, and so on.

Vasily Zhurov Landscape architect

The “bathhouse opposite the garage” option is not very successful. A bathhouse is a place of relaxation; it should be not only functional, but also aesthetically pleasing. It’s unlikely that being next to a garage and a road behind a fence will put you in the mood for relaxation.

Everything should be convenient, and this should be taken into account at the planning stage. If you immediately think about the road network, where to place the recreation area and what the garden should look like, then the placement of outbuildings will be correct.

It is not difficult to conveniently locate outbuildings on a personal plot, but the difficulty may lie in the fact that the requirements for the development of the site of a particular cottage village or SNT (if we are talking about country houses) must be taken into account. Also, construction planning must be carried out in accordance with the following documents: and “Regulations on garden, country and individual construction”. The first document regulates the site planning rules and how buildings should be located on it. There you will also find the answer to the main question that usually interests the owners of a land plot: how should buildings be located relative to the boundaries of the land plot and what should be the minimum distance between them.

We allocate space for the construction of outbuildings

Having studied and taken into account the building standards and the village charter (SNT), you can proceed to allocating space for outbuildings. And we must remember that:

• If the garage is placed on the border of the site adjacent to the road, you will be able to save some space that can be occupied by something else. Not often, but still you have to see that a third of the dacha plot is not occupied by anything, because “ At this site we turn the car around to drive into the garage.»;
• Outbuildings connected to communication networks (shower room, bathhouse building, summer kitchen, etc.) are often attached to the house or located as close as possible to it. Experts recommend considering another option: placing them at the entry points of communication junctions. Moreover, according to SNiPs, a bathhouse and a summer shower should be located 5-8 meters from the house;
• Outbuildings for the dacha - a shed for storing fertilizers, garden tools and other structures are placed closer to the garden. According to SNiPs, compost pits and other “waste collection places” should be located at a distance of 15-20 meters from the house;
• Greenhouses are placed in sunny areas, so that they are not covered by the shadow of a house or large trees. The distance from the greenhouse to the fence should be at least 4 meters, especially if you are going to feed the plants with fertilizers, including organic ones;
• Buildings associated with recreation are located away from prying eyes. The bathhouse terrace should be facing south, but not towards the road, and in such a way that it enters the recreation area;
• Farm buildings are located as far as possible from the house (at least 15 meters, according to SNiPs). If we are talking about a farm building for a summer residence, then summer residents most often place it in the garden area;
• The distance of buildings from the boundaries of the land plot should be 4 meters for farmers and 1 meter for all others;

It is also worth paying attention to how the outbuildings on the site will be located relative to the cardinal directions.

Naple User FORUMHOUSE

I also previously wanted to place a bathhouse in the depths of the site, but I realized that the windows of the rest room would face north and onto the road. Let the bathhouse be closer to the road, but the windows of the relaxation room look south, into the garden - and the view is always beautiful. And it's quieter if the windows are open.

An outbuilding located on the border of a site can become a shield, a protective screen that separates part of the site from the road, therefore the shape of such buildings can be elongated.

Garage and outbuildings on the site.

Most often the garage is placed at the border of the site, with entrance from the street. The main advantage of this arrangement is that the site area is saved, this is especially important for country outbuildings. In addition, exhaust gases and engine noise with this arrangement do not disturb any household members. If the front part of the fence is long, then this is a very good option. Since garages in most cases are combined with workshops, this arrangement is also convenient - no one in the house is annoyed by the noise of operating appliances and the clanging of tools.

Garage supplied close to the house, has two obvious advantages: in a rainstorm or snowstorm, you can easily enter it directly from your home (which is especially important when the garage also houses a workshop); the same security system can be installed on this garage as on the house. Usually it is this kind of garage that becomes a sacred place for the owner. And since all communications to the house are already connected, there are simply no limits to the arrangement of such a room: there is water, and you can make a shower to wash and change clothes after exercises in the workshop and minor auto repairs. Often a washing machine gradually moves into such a garage, and gas equipment also settles there.

Lavista User FORUMHOUSE

I’m thinking about a boiler room in the garage; we’ll build an extension nearby - I don’t want to have gas equipment in the house.

The only thing: placing a garage close to a residential building is not recommended for families with small children, or if one of the household members is allergic to the smell of gasoline, motor oil, etc.

Detached garage They are placed on large areas that have an additional exit (as in the project above). The garage gets the northern side of the plot, the least valuable from a horticultural point of view. A garage is not the most beautiful outbuilding, and when it is located somewhere to the side, away from lawns and recreation areas, nothing disturbs the garden idyll. But do not forget that the construction should not infringe on the interests of the neighbors - the garage should be at least a meter from the neighbor’s fence and at least two meters from their house.

Carpentry workshop on site

It is better to locate the carpentry workshop away from your home and your neighbors’ houses so that the noise does not disturb anyone. A detached garage or an empty shed are quite suitable for this - the only thing is that it should be possible to provide good lighting there, including illumination of the workbench and machines, since injuries during carpentry work often occur precisely due to the lack of light.

It can be used for a used block container (its area is 14 meters), but for people without high carpentry ambitions, a more modest room is quite enough.

AlekX FORUMHOUSE user

10 squares is enough... To arrange and work comfortably - from 25 squares, comfortably and impressively move with a cigar from machine to machine - from 40-50 sq.m.

Farm buildings on the site

Raising farm birds and animals is truly a fun activity. “Raising piglets” and “babysitting chickens” turns out to be unexpectedly pleasant, and novice adherents of “life on earth” can fall into the trap of enthusiasm. At this stage of neophytehood, it is generally not advisable to build outbuildings for chickens or piglets - this matter requires a cold, serious approach, otherwise you can unnoticed build a homestead palace with central heating from unreasonably expensive material instead of a pigsty. The piglets won't appreciate it anyway, and you'll be wasting your time and money. Leave the construction for later, when you have cooled down enough.

AlexeyGrey User FORUMHOUSE

At the beginning we all declared: “Yes, I am for my chickens! Yes central heating! Yes, do-it-yourself European-quality renovation! Yes, mash three times a day!” But then the understanding comes that all this is ambition, and it needs to be done easier, cheaper and more convenient - first of all, for you. Chickens don’t care where to sleep or what to peck from.”

You need to consider the length and severity of winter in your area. Where winters are short and not cold, or when kept in summer cottages, chickens feel great in small houses, the main thing is that there are nests and perches. In areas with real winters, stationary chicken coops are needed. And they should not be cramped - since the chickens will spend almost all winter there, eating, drinking, walking, then 4-5 chickens will require a square meter of room. The larger the chicken coop, the greater the cost of heating it, and if you plan to keep no more than a dozen chickens, the area of ​​the chicken coop should not be less than 4 square meters, otherwise it will be inconvenient.

If you want to fatten a piglet, then plan a living space for it in advance in the design of your garden plot. The size of the pen for it should be 2-5 meters. 2-2.5 meters is enough for one young pig, 5 meters for a pig with piglets. The pen should be high, approximately 190 centimeters. Piglets are nimble animals and can escape. The pig house should have a chute for waste disposal, it should be convenient to clean, remove manure, and lighting should also be provided. The temperature in the room should be comfortable for the animals. You don't need many windows - excess light bothers the pigs.

Read on FORUMHOUSE, . Watch a video about how to create a real barnyard on just one hundred square meters. Also on our portal you will find a lot of valuable information about ready-made projects of outbuildings, etc.

A neighbor built a two-story bathhouse 6 meters high 1 meter from my site. As a result, a six-meter solid wall appeared, blocking the light from the eastern side and shading my site. The externally built bathhouse is a full-fledged residential building. Are there laws or other regulations prohibiting building bathhouses 6 meters high so close to the fence (1 meter)? What can I do in this case?

Consultations: 57

The standards for the location of buildings on a land plot are enshrined in building codes and regulations, including SP 30-102-99, SP 42.13330.2011, SP 53.13330.2011.

So, in accordance with clause 5.3.4 “SP 30-102-99. Planning and development of low-rise housing construction areas" (adopted by Decree of the State Construction Committee of Russia dated December 30, 1999 No. 94) to the border of the adjacent apartment area, the distances for sanitary conditions must be no less than:

from a manor house, one-two-apartment and blocked house - 3 m, taking into account the requirements of clause 4.1.5 SP 30-102-99;
from buildings for keeping livestock and poultry - 4 m;
from other buildings (bathhouse, garage, etc.) - 1 m;
from the trunks of tall trees - 4 m;
medium height - 2 m;
from the bush - 1 m.

As stated in clause 5.3.8 of SP 30-102-99, in areas with estate buildings, one- and two-apartment houses, the distance from the windows of living rooms to the walls of the neighboring house and outbuildings (barn, garage, bathhouse) located on adjacent land plots , must be at least 6 m.

In accordance with clause 7.1 “SP 42.13330.2011. Set of rules. Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements. Updated version of SNiP 2.07.01-89*" (approved by order of the Ministry of Regional Development of Russia dated December 28, 2010 No. 820) the distances between residential buildings, residential and public, as well as industrial buildings should be taken on the basis of calculations of insolation and illumination in accordance with the requirements given in section 14 SP 42.13330.2011, illumination standards given in SP 52.13330, as well as in accordance with fire safety requirements given in section 15 SP 42.13330.2011.

Distances (domestic gaps) should be taken between the long sides of residential buildings:

for residential buildings with a height of two to three floors - at least 15 m;
four floors - at least 20 m;
between the long sides and ends of the same buildings with windows from living rooms - at least 10 m.

In conditions of reconstruction and other difficult urban planning conditions, these distances can be reduced subject to compliance with insolation, lighting and fire safety requirements, as well as ensuring that residential premises (rooms and kitchens) are not visible from window to window.

In areas of estate and garden-dacha development, the distances from the windows of residential premises (rooms, kitchens and verandas) to the walls of the house and outbuildings (barn, garage, bathhouse) located on adjacent land plots must be at least 6 m, and the distances to barn for keeping livestock and poultry - in accordance with clause 8.6 of SP 42.13330.2011.

The distance from the border of the site must be at least m: to the wall of a residential building - 3; to outbuildings - 1. In the absence of a centralized sewerage system, the distance from the toilet to the walls of the neighboring house must be at least 12 m, to the water supply source (well) - at least 25 m.

In accordance with clause 6.6 “SP 53.13330.2011. Set of rules. Planning and development of territories of gardening (dacha) associations of citizens, buildings and structures. Updated version of SNiP 30-02-97*" (approved by order of the Ministry of Regional Development of Russia dated December 30, 2010 No. 849) a residential building or residential building must be at least 5 m from the red line of streets, and at least 3 m from the red line of passages m. In this case, between houses located on opposite sides of the passage, fire distances must be taken into account.

The distances from outbuildings to the red lines of streets and driveways must be at least 5 m. By agreement with the board of a gardening or dacha association, a shed or garage for a car can be placed on the site, directly adjacent to the fence on the side of the street or driveway.

Clause 6.7 of SP 53.13330.2011 states that the minimum distances to the border of the neighboring plot for sanitary conditions should be from:

residential building (or house) - 3 m;
buildings for keeping small livestock and poultry - 4 m;
other buildings - 1 m;
trunks of tall trees - 4 m, medium-sized ones - 2 m;
bush - 1 m.

The distance between a residential building (or house), outbuildings and the border of a neighboring plot is measured from the base or from the wall of the house, building (in the absence of a base), if the elements of the house and building (bay window, porch, canopy, roof overhang, etc.) do not protrude more than 50 cm from the plane of the wall. If the elements protrude by more than 50 cm, the distance is measured from the protruding parts or from their projection onto the ground (cantilever roof canopy, second floor elements located on poles, etc.).

When erecting outbuildings on a garden or dacha plot, located at a distance of 1 m from the border of an adjacent garden or dacha plot, the roof slope should be oriented in such a way that rainwater runoff does not fall on the neighboring plot.

If buildings were erected in violation of building codes and regulations, as a result of which the rights of neighbors on a land plot were violated, the violated right can be protected in court.

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