How to remove the plastic clamp. Clamps for dishwashers

Household appliances such as washing machines, dishwashers or spin extractors have flexible water hoses in their designs. They are usually put on a rigid pipe and fastened with clamps.

In general, such clamps are a pair of rings made of spring steel. Compressing the free ends of this spring loosens the clamp on the hose. These clamps can usually be removed with a reasonably strong pair of pliers, but larger clamps may need to be removed with special spring clamp pliers.

Rice. 1

Screw clamps

Most screw clamps are made in the form of a strip of galvanized or stainless steel, which is rolled into a ring and loosened and tightened with a screw. Some screw clamps are made from wire. Both types are reusable.

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Ratchet Clamps

These factory-installed nylon ties lock securely with a ratchet.

This type of clamp is removed by shifting the lock halves in different directions relative to each other.

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This clamp is factory installed on the hose and is a perforated metal strip that can be removed but cannot be reused. Replace it with a suitable screw clamp.

/WALK AROUND THE MARKET

CLUTTERED

KEEP YOUR HOSES YOUNG

TEXT / DMITRY ERYGIN

You will find cooling system clamps in all domestic (except that Zaporozhets did not have them) and most imported cars. Why they are needed, it is probably not necessary to explain. Under the hood are located not only the engine and radiator, but also the intricacies of different hoses and pipes. Clamps all this just docked to each other.

There are four types of them: tape, wire, bracket-shaped (as on the exhaust system of the "Zhiguli") and worm. Tape ones are slowly starting to disappear from cars and you can hardly find them on the market. Staple-shaped ones also die off, as they do not provide proper tightness of the connection. Wire ones are used on some foreign cars, primarily "Japanese". On the last option - worm clamps - we decided to stop.

With a seemingly large selection on the shelves of markets and shops, we came across products from four companies (see photo). We bought two samples of each type and a slide of nozzles for which they are intended. The inspection program consisted of a thorough inspection and evaluation of clamps and tubes after tightening to the limit. They tear - they don't tear, they cut - they don't cut. So...

One of the advantages of a worm clamp over the old tape clamps is the convenience of tightening. With the most “correct” of them, you can work with Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, open-end and box wrenches (“7” or “8”), and even the corresponding socket head. If the clamp is not very "correct", the socket head, as well as one of the screwdrivers, may not fit. Screwdrivers - due to an inappropriate slot, the head - due to a too short worm, when the clamp band itself prevents the tool from being put on. Using the head in the latter case is extremely inconvenient - it simply jumps off.

What is the result? The most successful clamps are "Norma" and their copy (see photos 1, 2). The other two, including the "native" VAZ, will have inconvenience when using the end head. A slotted screwdriver is also not suitable for a VAZ driver, and a Phillips screwdriver for its colleague from Taiwan (photo 3).

Let's go further - let's check how gentle the clamps to the pipes will be. After all, both of them have to work in difficult conditions. During operation, the engine constantly oscillates in the engine compartment, and the radiator is fixed relative to the body motionless. Because of this, even good clamps cut the rubber a little. Bad ones cut pipes an order of magnitude faster.

The audit showed that among those tested, there is no unanimity in this. But there is a pattern. There are two ways to "cut the thread" on the tape. Or make slots, or notches by extrusion. It turned out that the latter option is preferable. Two clamps with such a tape (“Norma” and its copy) treated the hoses much more carefully.

1. Manufacturer / NORMA.

Price / 10 rub.

Dimensions / 25–40 mm.

Tool - head (key) "7", slotted or Phillips screwdriver.

I liked it. When tightening the clamp to the limiting moment, the notches are sheared from the tape. After removing the clamp, an even trace remains on the pipe without rubber cuts.

2. Manufacturer / unknown

Price / 10 rub.

Dimensions / 25–40 mm.

Tool - head "7", slotted or Phillips screwdriver.

Not bad. When tightening the clamp to the limiting moment, the notches are sheared from the tape. After removing the clamp, an even trace remains on the pipe without cuts. Very good copy of NORMA. The only difference from the original is the color of the screw. Here it has a yellowish coating.

3. Manufacturer / unknown, Taiwan.

Price / 8 rub.

Dimensions / 32–51 mm.

Tool - head "7" (uncomfortable), slotted screwdriver.

Not bad, but if you tighten it very tight, the nozzles will have to be changed more often. The worm head is close to the belt. When the clamp is tightened to the limiting moment, the tape is crushed and torn. After removing the clamp on the pipe, cuts remain on the rubber.

4. Manufacturer / unknown, from the VAZ assembly line.

Price / 10 rub.

Size / not specified.

Tool - head "8" (uncomfortable), Phillips screwdriver.

It will live, but it is very inconvenient - the worm's head is located close to the tape. When the clamp is tightened to the limit, the tape is wrinkled and cut or even torn. After removing the clamp, cuts remain on the nozzle.

TO NOT BLAST

Motorists often remember the cooling system only after the appearance of steam from under the hood or (less often) when the interior heater fails. If the level of "Tosol" in the expansion tank began to decrease, the first thing to look at is how tight the connections of the pipes of the cooling system with the radiator or engine are. Leaks increase in the cold season. To find leaks, in the morning immediately after starting a cold engine, inspect all connections in the pipes of the cooling system. Some antifreezes leave traces at the site of leaks.

On the “Norma” clamps, a pair of teeth (on the tape) is cut off when tightening, but the “VAZ” or Taiwanese ones can break.

That's what a bad hose clamp can do in a few years.

Hello to all do-it-yourselfers!

Currently, during repairs, as well as just in everyday life, plastic clamps of this type are very widely used.

They come in different sizes and are really very comfortable, as they tighten very quickly and hold quite firmly. They can be used to fasten and tie various wires and cables, fix long thin parts such as pipes or rails, and in many other cases.

And, perhaps, the only drawback of plastic clamps is that they are disposable. That is, if it is necessary to remove or replace any part fixed with such clamps (for example, a wire or cable in a bundle), then the old clamps have to be cut or bitten with wire cutters and then new clamps must be used to re-fasten.

However, sometimes there are situations when a supply of new clamps is not at hand. So recently I had to change an old electrical wire in a shed in the attic. And this wire was just fastened to several other wires with similar plastic ties. Naturally, at first I just wanted to bite these clamps with wire cutters, remove the old wire, and after installing the new wire, fix it with new clamps, but it turned out that I had run out of clamps. In the meantime, it was already evening in the yard, so that it was already too late to go to the store, and I really did not want to postpone the matter for later.

However, as a result, after a little thought, I found a way to carefully remove the old clamps without cutting or damaging them, and then, after installing the new wire, fastened it to other wires with the same clamps.

Of course, after this incident, I bought a pack of clamps at the first opportunity, replenishing my supply. But most importantly, it turned out that plastic clamps can, if necessary, be very simply and quickly unfastened and removed, and then reused.

To do this, we need a set of small screwdrivers (watch screwdrivers work well). As an example, I tightened the coiled extension cord with four clamps.

So, we select a suitable watch screwdriver with a flat tip and carefully insert the tip of the screwdriver into the slot of the clamp lock from below, under the tip of the clamp emerging from there, so that the tip of the screwdriver presses the locking tab of the clamp.

At the same time, it is desirable that the tip of the screwdriver be thin enough and well pointed, and everything must be done very carefully so as not to damage the tongue and teeth of the clamp, since we will reuse it.

Thus, continuing to press the tip of the screwdriver on the tongue of the clamp, with the fingers of the other hand we take the clamp by the tip and carefully loosen it, and then completely disconnect the clamp.

At the same time, since we did everything carefully and slowly, the tongue of the clamp turned out to be completely undamaged.

In the same way, remove all other clamps.

To make sure that the clamps were not damaged, I hung an eight-kilogram weight from one of them. And as you can see, the clamp can easily withstand its weight.

So this method can be used if you have a shortage of spare clamps. True, I advise you not to get too carried away by removing and rearranging the same clamp many times, because, after all, over time, the tongue and teeth of the clamp will be damaged, and it will not hold the load well, or even will not tighten at all. But, nevertheless, once or twice it is quite possible to use this technique by removing the clamp and using it again.

Well, that's all for me! For now, everyone, don’t despair if you don’t have the necessary parts or fasteners at hand, because you can always come up with something!

Clamps come in different designs, without knowing which one you need to remove correctly, it is not possible to give an exact answer. I will dwell on the most common cases, in front of us is a collar consisting of a metal tape with slots, plus a lock, plus a bolt). It is this bolt that needs to be unscrewed, most often there are slots on the bolt head for a Phillips screwdriver, we unscrew it, pay attention to the correct selection of the “sting” of the screwdriver, it should be no less and no more slots. We insert the screwdriver into the slots and, with a certain effort, turn it counterclockwise, while pressing the screwdriver against the clamp, the screwdriver should not slip so as not to "lick" the slots. After the bolt has been loosened, you can insert a tighter screwdriver between the hose and the clamp, but change the “sting” to a flat one (or pick up another screwdriver if this one does not have interchangeable “stings”). That, in fact, is all, there are no special tricks here, the main thing is not to rush and work carefully to keep the hose intact. In the end, I want to add that most of the bolts on the clamps are also equipped with a turnkey head (usually a turnkey of 8 mm), you can also use it if the clamp is very "stuck".

It depends on what kind of clamp we are talking about, if it is a home-made wire clamp, it just needs to be untwisted and removed, if it is cut short or broken off, it should be eaten with wire cutters in any convenient place without damaging the hose. If these are ordinary factory clamps, then it must be loosened by unscrewing the clamping bolt or nut, depending on the modification of the clamp, and after loosening it, push it a little onto the hose. Next, remove the hose and remove the clamp from the hose.

How do I remove these miracle clamps?

They are used in places where a high load is expected. For example, in an internal combustion engine, on the radiator pipes, on the hoses of the internal combustion engine cooling system.

There is a spring collar with a check. When installing such a clamp, no special tools are needed during installation. It is necessary to install the clamp in the desired place, pull out the pin and the spring clamp itself compresses the hose or pipe.

In almost any situation, they can be opened and reused, not to mention those that have already been broken, since any part can be useful in solving various problems. They are used in construction, during cable installation, even the policemen use them to fix the hands of detainees instead of handcuffs. A little useful advice on how, if necessary, you can quickly unfasten and remove the plastic clamp without cutting or damaging it.

Plastic fastening clamps of the screed are produced from such high-strength and reliable materials as polyamide.

Plastic ties hold the load well - it is impossible to break or stretch them, but a sharp shock load simply rips off the latch tab from the protrusions on the tie and the impromptu handcuffs can be easily removed. There is a small opportunity to open the clamp, for this you need to open the lock with a small strong screwdriver or an awl, i.e.

We have a wooden door and an intercom, they couldn't open the magnet, they ripped the door off. The special design of the lock allows you to re-open the tightened clamp if necessary.

In the cold season, it is often impossible to open the gas tank hatch.

You can buy plastic numbered seals in Krasnodar at the address: st. In order to remove such a device, you need to bend the front edge, loosen the clamp and pull it towards you with a flat screwdriver.

fucking left tie rod how to remove the large clamp and generally share ...

In order to disassemble a plastic beer keg, it is necessary to bleed off the gas that remained after pouring the drink. The magnetic lock thus does not fit snugly against the door, and the door is much easier to open - with a strong jerk or an improvised "tool," wrote a resident of Kiev. An ordinary cable tie or a plastic clamp can easily cope with this problem.

I do this every time I fill up, because I need to open it with a key.

Open the cylinder valve again and apply pressure, and check that there is no etching of air from the regulator. Tell me, please, I live in a private house, I want to move the kitchen from one room to another, there was a question about draining the water in the sink.