Do-it-yourself circular saw – reliable, practical, cheap! Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw: drawings, photos, dimensions What to make a shaft for a circular saw from.

For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine is time saving and work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a strong table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small-sized workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the operator’s safety. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.

You won't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal angle (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.

Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

What to make a table for a circular saw from?

The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheet. It is permissible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture-resistant plywood. Galvanized sheet metal is placed on top of the plywood.

The main condition is that the material should not crack from vibrations., have a smooth surface and do not allow deflections under a weight of at least 50 kg. If the tabletop cracks or warps, the circular disk will jam.

Universal homemade table for a circular saw and router. I recommend watching this video

This will lead to injury and damage to the workpiece. The use of popular materials OSB and chipboard is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations and can collapse at the most crucial moment.

There are two options for making a working groove for a circular disk:

You can cut a groove.
or place two halves of the tabletop at a distance from each other.

First I'll tell you about my hobby. I love tinkering: creating with my own hands things needed in the house that increase comfort and decorate the home. I especially like working with wood - carpentry, carpentry. The desire to have at your disposal an “assistant” that speeds up work and improves its quality was the main motive for the creation of the presented combined machine for producing carpentry blanks, or, one might say, a woodworking mini-complex.

My practical, albeit small, experience of working on industrial machines, both woodworking and metal-cutting, turned out to be very useful in the design and manufacture of this mini-complex. Now, with its help, you can perform a wide variety of processing: sawing (both in the longitudinal and transverse direction of the fibers); planing; grinding and polishing, turning and drilling (and you never know what else - it’s difficult to list everything) of wood products, and some operations even of metal.

The mini-complex consists of two, in general, independent machines (except that the first serves as a base or support for the second). The first is a circular saw with an electric jointer. The second is a turning and drilling machine.

Today we’ll talk about the first one. Let’s look at its structure in more detail. But first of all, I’ll note that it was designed, so to speak, according to an aggregate diagram (the jointer knives and the circular saw have a common drive and are mounted on one working shaft - the rotor). This solution allowed me to make the design simpler and more technologically advanced, which undoubtedly affected the rational placement of the main components and assemblies. This machine has components both industrially manufactured, those ordered from professionals and, of course, made with one’s own hands. There are even unusual parts, for example, the supporting part of the machine - the frame, is nothing more than “legs” from an old sewing machine. And it successfully fit into the overall design with virtually no alterations, or rather, the width of the plane table was adjusted to its appropriate size. The main parts of the frame (drawbars, cross members, spacer supports) were made from channel No. 5. Both structures: frame and bed are welded.

A three-knife rotor installed on the machine with double-sided (double-edged) jointer knives, saw blades with carbide tips, and various types of devices make it possible to produce high-quality lumber products. In the jointing (planing) mode, the width of the processed surface is 260 mm, and the cutting depth is up to 2 mm.

Jointer and circular saw drive

Tables (receiver and outlet), jointer and control panel (in the foreground)

Woodworking machine-jointer and "circular" (click to enlarge): 1 - frame (from a foot sewing machine, stamped steel channel 50x50x50, 4 pcs.; 2 - hinged under-motor platform; 3 - additional frame stand for attaching the lifting table "circular" "(corner 50x50, 2 pcs.; 4 - tray (duralumin sheet s1.5); 5 - longitudinal drawer (rolled channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 6 - under-table spacer support (rolled channel No. 5, 4 pcs.; 7 - circular saw (Ø300x32); 8 - control panel; 9 - subframe of the circular table lift (angle No. 5); 10 - mechanism for lifting the circular table (jack); 11 - transverse drawer (rolled channel No. 5, 2 pcs. .; 12 - jointer; 13 - driven pulley; 14 - V-belt (2 pcs.; 15 - drive pulley of the V-belt drive; 16 - electric motor (N=3 kW, n=1500 rpm, U=380 V); 17 - cross brace (steel profile, 4 pcs.; 18 - jointer outgoing table; 19 - plane receiving table; 20 - "circular" lifting table; 21 - trimming device guide (pipe Ø17); 22 - bearing housing of the working shaft (2 pcs.

The rotor (or working shaft) is the most important, complex and critical part of the machine. In addition, it is common to the jointer and circular saw. I made it (or rather ordered it to a turner, and then to a milling machine) according to the drawings published in the article “Small, but universal” by V. Avtukh from the Belarusian city of Grodno in the magazine “Model Designer” No. 11 for 2003. But since this part is very important, and the publication was quite a long time ago, I will give the drawing of the rotor again, especially since I made my own changes to it: for example, I lengthened the knives, and, accordingly, the rotor, the seats (trunnions) for other bearings, etc. d.

In the same issue of the magazine, I also “spotted” the mechanism for lifting the “circular” table - by adjusting its height on the machine, replacing the circular saw with a suitable cutter (or with the same saw in one or several passes), you can select grooves, “quarters” and folds various sizes.

The saw blade has a diameter of 300 mm and allows for a maximum cutting height (or groove depth) of up to 80 mm in one pass. A device mounted on the edge of the circular saw table helps cut the edges of the board at different angles. This sliding mechanism (I'll call it a slide) is very convenient when processing the end edges of a board.

The reliability of this machine was tested in the process of creating another machine - a lathe. Working on its frame, for three hours in a row I cut longitudinal guide oblong holes (grooves) on the upper flanges of its channels using cutting wheels installed in place of the saw blade, and then polished them.

Jointer table: 1 - longitudinal frame element (angle 45x45, 2 pcs.; 2 - rear frame element (angle 45x45); 3 - front frame element (angle 45x45); 4 - table top (steel sheet s5)

Frame of the engine platform: 1 - longitudinal strapping element (stamped steel channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 2 - transverse strapping element (stamped steel channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 3 - frame suspension eye (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 4 - frame cross brace; 5 - cross brace eye (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 6 - frame suspension axis (steel, circle 20); 7 - cotter pin

Rotor of the jointer and circular saw (click to enlarge): 1 - M8 screw with spring washer; 2 - pressure washer O35x25 (steel, sheet s4); 3 - driven double-groove pulley; 4 - bearing housing cover (2 pcs.; 5 - bearing 18037 (2 pcs.; 6 - bearing housing (2 pcs.; 7 - rotor (steel 45); 8 - thrust washer; 9 - saw blade; 10 pressure washer; 11 - M20 nut; 12-knife clamping strip (3 pcs.; 13-jointer knife, 3 pcs.; 14 - spacer (M6 screw, 12 pcs.

Lifting table of a circular saw with a mechanism for trimming workpieces

In the middle of the frame (half the length) there is a working shaft, the bearing units of which are fixed to it using M20x1.5 bolts 70 mm long. The shaft drive is carried out on the left side. If you look from the side of the working place, then the left part is the knife part of the planing head. On the right side there is a shaft journal with a diameter of 32 mm. Depending on the operation being performed, it can be equipped with: a circular saw, a milling cutter, an emery wheel, a grinding wheel or a cutting wheel. Important! The nut securing the tool to the shaft has a right-hand thread. The working surface of the machine is formed from three steel plates (tables). Two plates are located on either side of the planing rotor (shaft). The first is the receiving table, located closer to the carpenter, the second table is the outgoing table. Both tables have the same dimensions. The outfeed table does not have a special mechanism for adjusting the height relative to the cutting tool, and this operation is carried out as necessary using steel spacers.

The table surfaces are made of 5 mm thick steel sheet in the form of inverted trays (or troughs), installed in frames of 45x45 angles and welded to them.

The circular saw table, on the other hand, can be easily adjusted in height relative to the saw blade during operation using the built-in lifting mechanism. On the right side of the “circular” table, on the longitudinal guide, there is a mechanism that has an angle setting scale, with the help of which you can trim the ends of the boards, not only at a right angle, but also at any other angle. This mechanism is based on the corresponding device for a hand saw.

I note that the described device can be easily removed: removed or lowered. The longitudinal guide is made of a steel pipe with a diameter of 17 mm; it is fastened using brackets-ears on the edges of the circular saw table.

On the same side of the same table, using clamping bars with M10 bolts, a guide bar made of rolled steel angle 50x50 mm is attached to the table. The distance between the saw blade and the bar determines the width of the workpiece to be cut. And the bar itself helps to maintain the specified width along the entire length of the workpiece without marking the latter.

Mechanism for lifting the circular table and attaching the guide bar to the table (click to enlarge): 1 - frame, 2 - frame thrust cross member (angle 50x50); 3 - jack (screw M20x2); 4 - thrust cross member of the lifting table (angle 45x45); 5 - lifting table stopper (special screw M12x1,5,2 pcs.; 6 - circular saw; 7 - guide bar; 8 - drawer (angle 40x40, 4 pcs.; 9 - lifting table stand (angle 40x40, 2 pcs.; 10 - strut (angle 40x40, 2 pcs.; 11 - tabletop; 12 - additional frame support; 13 - pressure block (steel, 2 pcs.; 14 - half-pin retainer with M10 nut (2 sets; 15 - special M10 screw, 2 pcs

Mechanism for trimming workpieces (parts pos. 3,4,6 are used from a device for a hand saw) (click to enlarge): 1 - base (board s15); 2 - stop (board s18); 3 - stand (steel); 4 - plate with scale (steel); 5 - fastening the plate to the base (M8 bolt, 2 pcs.; 6 - stopper (special M8 nut with knurling); 7 - fastening the bushings to the base (M8 nut, 2 pcs.; 8 - circular lifting table; 9 - bracket fastening the guide to the table (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 10 - guide rod (pipe Ø17); 11 - backing plate (steel, sheet s5); 12 - bushing (steel, 2 pcs.; 13 - fastening the guide rod (screw M12, 2 pcs.

The drive of the rotor - the working (tool) shaft - is carried out by a two-ribbed V-belt drive (although in practice I use only one belt) from a three-phase (380 V) electric motor with a power of 3 kW with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm. The engine is located at the very bottom inside the frame and is hinged on a cantilever-hung subframe, which made it possible to solve the problem of belt tension without an additional roller. To ensure high-quality processing of the material, the rotation speed of the working shaft was increased due to an accelerating V-belt drive. The diameter of the motor pulley is one and a half times larger than the diameter of the working shaft pulley, therefore, the knife rotor and circular saw rotate at an angular speed of about 2250 rpm. The electric motor is powered through a four-wire cable, the electrical wiring meets all safety standards, and the frame is grounded. In case of a short circuit or overload, the starter can almost instantly turn off the power supply in automatic mode. After operation, the machine should be de-energized and cleaned of sawdust and dust.

The machine has been in operation for six years. I carry out routine maintenance: I inject bearing units, check the serviceability of the jointer knives, the condition of the saw blade teeth, inspect the drive V-belts and power cables of the machine.

It would not be amiss to remind you that the machine is a high-risk mechanism. Rotating parts and cutting tools not in use must be covered with secured covers. Operating the machine requires extreme concentration and compliance with safety regulations. Don't rush, don't force yourself to speed up the process, work for your own pleasure. The carpenter's workplace should be well lit, the space around the machine should be sufficiently free, and the floor covering should not be slippery.

Circular saw shaft and bearing assembly

Let's look at the picture, which shows a cross-section of the shaft assembly

Shaft (1)
bearing housing (2)
bearings (3)
internal saw blade clamping sleeve (4)
external saw blade clamping sleeve (5)
clamping nut (6)
driven shaft pulley (7)
clamping nut, lock washer, key (8)

Sharpened from steel 45. The manufacture of the shaft can only be entrusted to highly qualified specialists, where a prerequisite is strict adherence to the technical requirements for the seating surfaces of the shafts and housings according to. On the saw blade mounting side, the following are mounted on the same diameter: a bearing; clamping inner sleeve; saw blade; clamping outer sleeve, so take this into account when you add tolerances and fits to the working drawings.

BEARING CASE

It is sharpened from steel 20. M6 threads are cut into the four mounting holes. Before pressing the bearings, fill the housing with Li-tol-24 lubricant.

BEARINGS

1204 ball radial double row spherical. They have two rows of balls. The inner surface has a curved shape. Covers can be provided in the bearing housing to protect them from dust and wood chips. But this solution, in general, will significantly complicate the design and increase its overall dimensions, therefore, we will not use it.

INNER CLAMPING BUSH

Made from steel 45

EXTERNAL CLAMPING BUSH

Made from steel 45

CLAMP NUT

The M16 round spline nut in accordance with GOST 11871-88 clamps the driven pulley.

LOCK WASHER

Multi-claw (version 2), serves to fix the nut relative to the shaft and does not allow it to unscrew during rotation.

KEY

Keyed connection with parallel keys, tolerances and fits

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in domestic conditions. In principle, it won’t be difficult to make a circular saw yourself even if you don’t have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and here a steel angle, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine will do. The assembled circular saw can be placed on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for the circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use a unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Manual device from an angle grinder

If you have a grinder on your farm, then you won’t find a better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of metal corner of a small cross-section, located on both sides of the saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and back sides with a transverse ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part with which the handle is attached to the gearbox are equipped with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to prevent the handle from deflecting during the operation of a circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjustment rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how, at home, you can convert an angle grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Mini table saw

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two equal parts, which after installation are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame with a clamp. An assembled hand-held circular saw table can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and to process larger lumber you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed further.

Stationary machine

A circular saw, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, so before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the figure, homemade circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of assembling them. Before making a circular table, as well as mounting a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each part of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of the cut will be uneven. It is better to make cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle of 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side stop. The homemade table on which the circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.

Saw blade

The toothed disk should rise above the surface of the table of the circular saw by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the same parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, a motor with a power of 1 kW will also be required. For workpieces with a diameter of over 150 mm, a mini circular saw made by hand is unlikely to be suitable. Some factory circular machines have a riving knife, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closure of parts of the sawn workpiece, so it can also be very useful in the case when a homemade circular saw is assembled.

Adjustable side support

It is possible to install a high-quality stop from a steel angle with a cross-section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm greater than the thickness of the table. After installation, the emphasis is fixed on a homemade circular table in a given position using bolts. This element is adjusted according to a template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft installed on the circular saw is the most critical component, so its turning and testing together with the disk should be carried out exclusively by a specialist using special equipment. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is immediately excluded, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution would be to purchase a ready-made shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the unit you made yourself will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case, the ideal option would be a V-belt drive, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail suddenly gets caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to fracture, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually selected based on engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw wheel, the higher its rotation speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.

Motor

Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular machine assembled from a washing machine motor. This choice is explained by the fact that its operating scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from a washing machine operates at lower speeds, which means that it lasts longer, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible to all sorts of blockages. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and operating capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from a washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.

A circular saw is a device that is used mainly in industry, but you can find people using it in private home settings. Some people try to make it themselves. The most important part here is the shaft. Most often, the shaft for the circular is made to order. To do this, you need to contact only a highly qualified turner. Fortunately, it’s not difficult to find something like this today. However, such work will be quite expensive. There are alternative methods to solve this problem. The easiest way is to create a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands. Of course, this requires a lathe.

It is even possible that it will be numerically controlled. You will have to acquire some additional tools. You can't do without materials here.

Tools and materials

In order to make a circular saw shaft with your own hands, you need to provide the following tools and materials:

Cutters for various purposes. Here you will need not only a standard tool, but also a groove cutter.
A cylindrical shaft of appropriate dimensions, which will be made of 45 steel.
Measuring tool. In this case, a clear caliper may be needed. Only with its help can you take the most accurate measurements in order to get the perfect part at the end.

Basically, this is enough to make a shaft for a circular saw. In some cases, additional measuring tools may be needed.

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Important details

In the case of the shaft, it is worth using high-quality steel. We are talking about a material that has the numbers 45 in its name, of course. We are talking about steel. In your work, you must be guided by the corresponding GOST, which describes the location of the shafts and seating surfaces. On the saw blade mounting side, the clamping inner sleeve, bearings and the saw blade itself sit on one surface.

As a result of the fact that there are many parts, each of them will have its own fitting size, which is indicated in the drawing. It must be made first in accordance with the dimensions that this tool has. You will have to focus on them when creating the circular shaft. All tolerances and fits must be indicated on the drawing. A caliper is used for accurate measurements. You can also prepare gauges with appropriate sizes in advance. In private home conditions, it is quite difficult to find them, so often everything is limited only to a caliper.

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Manufacturing process

So, a person has all the necessary tools, a shaft with a certain diameter, as well as a drawing. First you need to fix the part in the lathe. Regardless of its type, double-sided fastening is used. Any lathe has a spindle. The shaft is secured here using special clamps. On the other side is the tailstock. She presses the material from behind. Now you can proceed to rough processing.

For these purposes, a flow cutter is used. For roughing, rough removal is used, so there are no specific requirements for the tool. The most important thing is that it is sharpened. Otherwise, burrs may form on the workpiece, and this is unacceptable. The machine is simply started and processing is carried out according to the largest diameter.

You need to leave a small allowance.

It will be needed for finishing with a cutter.

Now you can move on to processing other surfaces. Since there are quite a lot of seats, each of them will be processed in accordance with the drawing. It is worth working at high speeds so that the surface is as high quality and smooth as possible.

Once roughing is completed, you can move on to finishing turning. An appropriate cutter is also used for these purposes. All allowances that remained previously will have to be removed. Here you should definitely focus on the drawing dimensions. They are processed. It is advisable to check the size after each finishing pass to ensure that the final product is truly correct.

Next comes the groove cutter. It is used for turning special grooves for keys. There will be several of them here. They will allow you to attach a wide variety of parts to the shaft. It is necessary to cut in accordance with the dimensions shown in the drawing. After the work is completed, you can once again check all available dimensions.

If necessary, you can remove the shaft and then try to fit the bearing and other parts that will be used onto it. If everything is fastened normally, then we can safely state that the work was carried out correctly, and, therefore, the circular shaft is ready for use. Of course, you can use additional sandpaper to get a cleaner surface.

To process the workpiece with its help, the latter is fixed again in its position. Now take a sheet of sandpaper and run it along the shaft. In this case, the clamped workpiece should rotate. You should use non-coarse sandpaper to get a mirror shine, after which the shaft can be removed from the machine. It is completely ready for installation on a circular machine. Of course, you will have to do a number of manipulations with other blanks so that they all fit perfectly on it.

In fact, the work is not difficult, but it is still better to turn to professionals, especially since not every person has a lathe at his disposal. It is better to carry out the work on a machine with numerical control, as this makes it much easier.

Thus, the work is completed, which means we can sum up some of its results. Now everyone knows how. In fact, everything that was described above consists of processing a simple shaft.

In some cases, it can be obtained from a rod of the appropriate diameter. All remnants of the workpiece are subsequently removed. They can simply be sawed off using a hacksaw. You can also use another tool. For example, a grinder with an appropriate circle that is capable of cutting metal is ideal for these purposes. It all depends on what a person has available in his workshop.