How to saw correctly on a band sawmill. How to use a chainsaw: pro tips How to work with a circular saw

Without a hacksaw, it is impossible to imagine a professional carpenter or carpenter, and in everyday life it is used quite often. The widespread use of this tool contributed to the emergence of its various types, designed for certain operations.

To choose the right hacksaw, you should study its characteristics, imagine what exactly needs to be sawed with it and how often it will be used.

Kinds

Like any common tool designed to perform a large number of jobs, a wood saw is classified according to several parameters.

By type of cut and purpose

Hacksaws can be designed for cross cutting, longitudinal (sweeping) or be universal. Between themselves, these species differ in the shape of the teeth.

The teeth of saws designed for longitudinal cutting of wood have the form of an oblique triangle. The angle between them is from 45 to 60°, which allows you to cut wood in only one direction, while providing an accurate and even cut line. Most often they are used in the manufacture of furniture.

Hacksaws with teeth resembling an isosceles triangle are used for cross-cutting wood. Sharpening at an angle of 45-55 ° makes it possible to cut workpieces both in the forward and in the opposite direction. Such a saw works most effectively on dry wood.

The universal hacksaw has two types of teeth - triangular and semicircular (with semicircular more triangular). When the saw moves forward, long teeth set the direction, and wider, triangular ones widen the cut, which allows sawdust and chips to freely exit. The smaller the angle between these teeth, the more accurate the cut.

Depending on the purpose, hacksaws for wood are classic, round and tenon. Classic saws are used for longitudinal or transverse cutting of wood. Circular hacksaws for wood are designed for cutting holes. With the help of tenon saws, elements are formed to connect individual parts.

Tooth size

One of the main parameters of any wood saw is the size of the teeth. The size is understood as a step, that is, the distance between adjacent points. Depending on this parameter, the saws may have teeth:

• small;
• medium;
• large.

Hacksaws with fine teeth (from 2.0 to 2.5 mm.) provide cutting wood with high precision and are most often used to work with products of the smallest sizes.

Saws with large teeth (from 4 to 6 mm) are used for cutting logs or beams.

Hacksaws with an average tooth size (from 3.0 to 3.5 mm) are used when processing small parts.

There are also types of hand saws for wood with teeth arranged in groups of 6-7 pieces, separated from each other by gaps. Raw wood is processed with such a tool. Thanks to the gaps, wet chips do not clog the cut channel.

Design classification

Structurally, hacksaws for wood are:

• narrow;
• standard;
• with a butt;
• with an award
• beam;
• folding.

Narrow hacksaws saw blanks, the thickness of which does not exceed 10 cm. They are also used for sawing branches in the garden, sawing out curved parts and other works. Structurally, these saws are a narrow blade with triangular teeth connected to an L-shaped handle.

The blade of a standard hacksaw (GOST 2615-84) can have any kind of teeth. Often they are equipped with sets of interchangeable sheets designed to perform a wide variety of carpentry and joinery work.

When processing hardwoods, hacksaw blades can be strongly bent. Saws are spared from this drawback, the blades of which are equipped with a butt, which acts as an additional stiffening rib. However, its presence does not allow making a cut deeper than the width of the blade itself.

A hacksaw with an award looks like a planer. It has two handles and is used in cases where it is necessary to make grooves or spikes. However, the depth of these elements can be different.

A bow saw is a blade stretched over a base made in the form of a large arc. It is connected to the handle by means of a threaded or tensioned connection, which allows the use of different types of blades during operation. In turn, this makes it possible to single-handedly cut blanks with complex sawing lines.

On the market you can also find folding hacksaws for wood. They are very light and have a small size when folded, which makes it possible for outdoor enthusiasts to take them with them on a hike or fishing trip. This saw has a short, pointed blade with small teeth.

Other varieties

There are other types of wood saws. Among them, a garden hand saw is distinguished, equipped with a narrow blade, for the manufacture of which chromium steel is used. It is equipped with widely spaced teeth inclined towards the handle. It is convenient to work with such a tool in cases where the emphasis during the cut has to be done on yourself.

There is a two-handed saw with which it is convenient to cut large logs or cut down trees. Two people should work with her.

A chain hand saw is a short chain with hardened teeth and two handles at the ends. It is compact and suitable for travel use. You can work with it as one person, and two.

A modern and versatile tool is an electric saw, with which you can perform a large amount of various work. In some cases, it completely replaces the circular. Changing blades, it cuts not only wood, but also plastic and metal.

main parameters

The efficiency of using a hacksaw for wood depends largely on its technical characteristics. The main ones are:

• the material from which the saw blade is made;
• the length of the canvas and its shape;
• the size and shape of the tooth;
• handle type.

When choosing a tool, you need to pay attention to each element of the characteristic. Only in this case you will not have to regret the purchase.

Web material

The blade of modern hacksaws for wood is made from high-quality tool (alloyed) steel with a high content of carbon and silicon (65G, 8HF, U7 ... U10). Hardness should be at least HRC 45. There are also models that use a combined, more wear-resistant blade with a cutting part (teeth) that has increased hardness (HRC55 ... 60).

The length and shape of the canvas

On the domestic market, you can find wood saws with a length of 250 to 650 mm with a step that is a multiple of 25 mm. This parameter is set by GOST 2615-84 and depends on the distance between the teeth.

Note! It is necessary to choose a saw, guided by the rule: "The length of the blade should be 2 times the thickness (diameter) of the workpieces."

Otherwise, it will be uncomfortable to work with a hacksaw, as a short blade will stick inside the solid wood.

As a rule, hacksaws with a narrow blade have a length of no more than 350 mm and are equipped with a large number of small teeth. Universal tools are equipped with blades about 500 mm long with medium-sized teeth. Hacksaws with a wide blade are made with large teeth located at a great distance from each other (large step), their length can reach 650 mm.

Traditionally, a saw on a tree looks like a triangle narrowed on one side. This tool can work with any kind of wood. In addition, there are hacksaws adapted to work, for example, with tree branches or other objects located at some distance from the sawyer. They have a rounded shape and are light in weight.

Size and shape of the tooth

The dimensions of the teeth (pitch) of the hacksaw blade directly affect the performance and accuracy of the tool. The larger the teeth, the higher the speed of work, but the accuracy and quality of the cut deteriorates. Using a saw with fine teeth, on the contrary, guarantees a clean and even cut, but at the same time the speed drops.

The cutting accuracy is determined by the number of teeth per 1 inch of the blade length (TPI coefficient), that is, their density. Its value is marked on the side surface of the canvas (for example, 7x1 ″ or 7TPI). The more TPI, the smaller the step. So, 2TPI=12mm, and 12TPI=2mm.

When choosing a hacksaw for wood, it must be borne in mind that the minimum thickness of the workpiece must be more than a three-tooth pitch.

Essential when working with a hacksaw for wood is the appearance of sharpened teeth. In this case, teeth are considered standard, sharpened on both sides and having the form of an acute-angled or isosceles triangle.

Important! The latest generation of saws are equipped with hardened teeth of a non-standard shape. They have the appearance of a trapezoid and are distinguished by the presence of three sharpened edges and increased wear resistance. Blades with such teeth cannot be re-sharpened.

Handle type

The type of handle and the material from which it is made largely determine the convenience of working with a hacksaw for wood. It is best to work with a saw equipped with a one-piece molded plastic handle with rubberized finger inserts. The handle, made of two parts, is less comfortable, as it does not have sufficient rigidity.

There are also hacksaws with flip-over handles. They are, as a rule, equipped with universal and bow saws, in which blades can be changed during operation.

Overview of the best wood saws

On the tool market, hacksaws for wood are presented in a wide range. Among them there are products of both domestic and foreign production, which have proven themselves from the best side.

Saw "Zubr Expert" is a universal tool with which you can carry out both longitudinal and transverse sawing of wood. The blade, 40 cm long, has hardened teeth set in a special way, arranged in 5 mm increments.

The Banco Laplander 396-LAP mini file is specially designed for outdoor use. The narrow, pointed blade has Sandvik XT-shaped teeth, which provide high-quality cuts in wood both along and across the grain. The length of the hacksaw when folded is 23 cm, and it weighs only 200 g.

The Gross Piranha hacksaw blade is made of high quality steel with a hardness of HRC 52. At the same time, the teeth, hardened to a hardness of HRC 66, have a trihedral shape with laser sharpening and are coated with Teflon, the use of which improves the sliding of the blade and the cleanliness of the cut.

When choosing a hacksaw, you need to pay attention to its marking, study the parameters and, if something is not clear, check with the seller. After purchase, the tool should be looked after, cleaned after use, stored in a dry place, sharpened and wired if necessary. Only in this case it will last as long as possible.

Source: https://DrevoGid.com/instrumenty/pily/nozhovka-po-derevu.html

How to cut a board straight: from a circular saw to a hacksaw

Greetings to all readers and subscribers of my blog. Today I, Andrey Noak, want to talk about how to cut a board straight. Wood is considered to be one of the highest quality and environmentally friendly building materials.

Introduction

The tree has found its application in a variety of industries. This raw material has always been popular due to its versatility, ease of extraction and processing. Furniture, interior items and even entire houses are made from wood.

Any master is faced with this material, but, as practice shows, not everyone succeeds in making a neat cut of the board. After the tools, chips or notches often remain on the cut, which does not add beauty to your product. So which is better, do-it-yourself sawing or ordering?

Many firms offer to cut your boards when buying, besides, the price for this service is not too high. In the production, sawing of boards is done by a qualified craftsman using precise equipment, which makes it possible to obtain high-quality blanks of the desired size and shape.

Of course, you yourself can get expensive equipment, but is there any point in this if you need to cut several boards. It’s up to you to choose, but if you still decide to cut boards at home, then I’ll tell you how and how it’s more convenient to do it.

Circular saw

This is the most convenient tool for sawing boards. Compared to some other power tools, it has greater performance. But it is worth remembering that circular saws differ in characteristics and scope.

Before buying a saw, decide for what purposes you will use it. The main use of circular saws is cutting or sawing boards.

When choosing a saw, the depth of the saw must be taken into account. On sale there are circular saws with a cutting depth of 30 to 130 mm. You need to find out with what thickness of the board you will be sawing and, based on this, give preference to one or another saw.

It is also worth taking a responsible approach to choosing a blade for your circular saw. If you need to make a neat cut, you should choose a saw blade with a higher tooth frequency.

If the teeth on the disc are rarely located, then the work will be faster, but much rougher. It is important that when working with a circular saw, the cuts are even and practically without chips. More about this in my book.

More details about it in the "BOOKS" section.

To start working with a circular saw, set the cutting depth equal to the thickness of your board. Thanks to this, you can make the most beautiful cut on almost any surface without leaving marks.

But it is worth remembering that if you make a cut at 90 degrees, the depth of cut will be one, and for a cut of 45 degrees, the depth of cut will be much greater. Then check that nothing interferes with the protective casing, otherwise it simply will not open.

Fix the board, it is necessary that in the process of work it does not slide on the table, this requires an emphasis along and at the end of the workpiece. By the way, some saws are equipped with a knurled screw that allows you to set the angle of the cut. Circular saws typically have a range of 90 to just under 45 degrees, which allows for neat miter cuts.

Do not forget about safety when working with a circular saw. Always wear protective goggles, and even better, a full face mask. Remember that almost all tools are designed for right-handers, which means that all sawdust and other debris will fly out from under the saw on the left side, so left-handers should take more care of the safety of their eyes and respiratory tract.

Angle grinder or grinder

Some masters advise using a grinder if you have a large amount of work, low quality requirements.

Do not under any circumstances try this method. The grinder is designed to give a beautiful look to the weld or to cut bricks, and you just can’t do it without a saw. Sawing boards with a grinder is traumatic.

When cutting boards with this tool, craftsmen advise putting a notched disk for a circular saw on it.

Imagine that when working, the grinder captured a piece of wood in one of the notches, you immediately release the power button (the one who worked with her knows that after turning off the disk will make a few more turns) and it is not known where you will find your tool after that, on floor a couple of meters away from you or in your body.

Or, for example, the disk has heated up and burst, which is also quite possible, pieces of the hot cut-off wheel are scattered over the entire area, and some of them may land on you. Other craftsmen use a disk with a winning solder, which can also easily be in your leg.

Therefore, it is better not to take risks, but to use a tool specially adapted for this work.

Hacksaw

In order to make an even cut with a hacksaw, first you need to draw a cut line with a pencil on the board, then set the workpiece so that it is convenient for you to work with it, fix it in this position. The next step, you need to set the hacksaw at a position of about 60 degrees to the product, guide the saw with your thumb so that it runs exactly along the cut line.

Start sawing as soon as your notch is deep enough for the saw to “walk” in it without straying from the mark, you can turn it to a position convenient for you, usually 90 degrees, and continue washing down until you achieve the desired result. If the wood is wet and soft, then the teeth of the hacksaw will get stuck in it, which will make the work more tedious and time consuming.

To facilitate your work, lubricate the tool with soap, which will greatly facilitate your work. For a novice master, the first cuts are not very even, so it is better to use a bar that will serve you as a guide.

If you need to cut at an angle, use a miter box. It has pre-cut grooves for a hacksaw. You just have to attach it to the workbench, insert the part into a special groove and cut it at the angle you need. The cut will turn out even, practically without chips.

In order to cut the boards beautifully, it is better to use the help of a qualified craftsman, if you think that you yourself are able to cope with this work, then in no case do it with a grinder, it is better to use a hacksaw. For neat cuts along the board, the best tool is a circular or circular saw.

An important point in cutting boards is accuracy and accuracy, this is painstaking and time-consuming work. The main thing is to never forget that any hand, and even more so power tools can harm you, never neglect safety rules, it’s better to play it safe, because health is the most important thing.

More related videos

I wish you good luck in all your endeavors. and stay up to date with all the interesting materials on my blog. Don't forget to recommend them on social media.

Source: http://andreynoak.ru/pervichnaya-derevoobrabotka/kak-otpilit-dosku-rovno/

How to operate a hand saw

The saw must be driven, otherwise it will start to “walk”. This must be taken literally. Wood is a living material and its behavior is unpredictable. Hard growth rings, knots, cracks, high humidity and high resin content can seriously complicate sawing.

For this reason, there is no universal tool that could take into account all the whims of the tree, but there are many different special saws. The shape and order of alternation of their teeth are determined not by the material from which the saw blade is made, but by its purpose. Some tool can only cut in a straight line, the other, on the contrary, goes better in a circle.

When sawing, only the saw moves, the workpiece must be securely fastened. Therefore, you will need a stable support. For example, a workbench or goats. The workpiece is fixed with a clamp or held by hand, and especially large - additionally with a knee.

Sawing begins and ends with repeated light pulling of the saw in the opposite direction, that is, a “trace” is laid. At the end of sawing, you need to hold the residue firmly so that it does not break off along with a piece of the main wood.

Sawing is one of the most common processes in wood processing. A clean, even cut is not a problem if you choose the right tool and know how to use it.

hand saws

In the photo (from top to bottom): large and small hacksaws; saw with a "back"; saw with a narrow blade. On the left side is a saw for fine sawing.

For each workpiece - its own saw

The hacksaw cuts quickly, but the wide tooth pitch leaves a rough mark in soft material. On the other hand, it would be difficult to cut a thick cant with a fine saw.

In a word, the material and the tool must fit together. Only then can you count on high-quality work and obtaining a smooth, defect-free part.

We offer a brief instruction: which tree should be processed with which saw.

How to protect your saw from damage

Any saw (especially its cutting edge) should not come into contact with other tools during storage. From such a neighborhood, it can quickly fail.

If the saw does not have a sheath, then a simple method will help protect its teeth from damage. A cut of the required length is made in a piece of hose, after which the hose is mounted on the saw blade. A rigid hose lined with a fabric is best suited for this purpose. It adheres tightly to the saw blade even after repeated use.

If longitudinal sawing is carried out in large volumes, then it is better to purchase a circular saw. To do it with a hand saw - you get dirty. This is the first, and the second: the information that can be gleaned from the texts in the frame is incomprehensible to a beginner, and useless to a professional.

Basic Hand Saws

Any home workshop should have at least three to four different types of saws.

1. Hacksaw with a wide blade for rough sawing of large parts and workpieces. The longer the canvas, the faster the work goes. However, for the same reason, the mobility of the blade itself increases, due to which the saw, as they say, leads away. Therefore, it is important to carefully monitor the cutting line, not allowing it to deviate from the markup. A novelty of recent years is the Teflon coating of the hacksaw blade, which greatly facilitates sawing fresh wood, and also protects the saw from rust.
2. A saw with a “back” differs from a conventional hacksaw not only in that it has a rigid nozzle that “dampens” blade vibrations, but also in smaller, closely spaced teeth. Such a saw allows you to make a clean and thin cut.
3. A fine cut saw ensures a clean and precise cut.
4. A narrow blade saw is designed for sawing rounded parts and large holes. The basic rule of care for any saw: its blade should always be dry and clean. Saw teeth - even hardened ones - should be sharpened regularly.

How to saw correctly

It is always necessary to cut from the cutting side, close to the marking line. This applies to both rough cuts with a hacksaw and fine cuts with a fine-toothed saw.

In the process of sawing, the part must be held firmly by hand all the time (a large-sized workpiece - also with a knee) - in other words, only the saw should move.

Sawing begins with the first short strokes at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Only after the saw blade has entered the wood and fixed in it, you can start working with a saw for the entire length of the blade.

At the edge of the cut, saw only in short, sharp strokes. This will avoid breakages from the underside of the workpiece.

Cutting along the wood fibers is always a “critical” situation, especially if the wood has a large swirl. The saw naturally wants to follow the path of least resistance, and if not restrained, it will begin to "walk". That is, in such cases, the saw has to be pressed harder than usual, which, in turn, requires the most stable position of the workpiece.

With large cross cuts, a conventional hacksaw can jam. In such cases, it is better to use a rip saw with very set teeth. Just keep in mind that the cutting strip will be much thicker than the saw blade.

preparing the saw for work

Sawing fresh or damp wood will become easier if the saw blade is smeared with wax or soap.

hacksaw for longitudinal cutting of wood

The blanks are firmly pressed against the lintel, its right edge guides the saw.

Tsulaga

When processing small workpieces, the collage shown in the figures below can be of great help.

To make it, you will need a piece of carpentry board about 20 x 30 cm in size and 2 mm thick, as well as two planed strips, which must be fixed to the board as shown in the figure. To prevent warping and breaking of the slab, the planks must be placed across the direction of its core layer.

How to work with a circular

The lower bar of the tulage rests against the edge of the tabletop and thus sets the correct direction for cutting, the shortened upper bar ensures good centering of the saw.

If you have to cut long boards or planks, then a second cleat will not interfere, which will serve as a stop for the other end of the workpiece.

A piece of carpenter's board and two pieces of plank are enough to make a practical tsulagi.

Before starting sawing, the saw set at an angle must be pulled several times towards you.

Teeth and their shape

The capabilities of the saw depend on its shape and size of the teeth. A large number of teeth on a given blade length means thin sawing but slow progress. A small number of teeth gives a rough cut.

Wood is made up of fibers that separate when sawn. In this case, sawdust appears, which must be removed. The finer the teeth, the faster the cut and the cutting edge of the saw are clogged with small sawdust - saw flour.

The teeth can no longer grip the wood to its full height. Sawing is becoming more and more tedious and, most importantly, unproductive.

But large teeth almost never clog due to the greater distance of their tips from each other.

Almost any saw has teeth that are divorced, that is, their tips alternately deviate either to the left or to the right. The greater the angle of inclination, the wider the cut band, and therefore it is less clogged with sawdust, and the saw jams less.

Over time, saw teeth become dull and need to be sharpened. In this case, the broken wiring must be restored. Even for a specialist, this is not an easy job. Therefore, we recommend purchasing saws with hardened teeth. They do not dull so quickly, and they are easier to sharpen than the teeth of a conventional saw.

You just need to put the saw blade on the table and run the whetstone twice along the cutting edge from the end to the handle, then turn the blade over. The saw is sharpened, you can get to work.

Steep teeth for ripping

This is how the teeth are located on almost all hand saws, including hacksaws and saws with a "back".

The cutting edge of the teeth is located vertically. Suitable for longitudinal cuts.

ripping with a hand saw

When ripping, the workpiece should protrude sufficiently beyond the workbench - this makes it easier to cut.

The marking below the gap indicates where the saw is deflected.

Bevels

The connection of two wooden parts at a right angle, for example at picture frames, is often carried out using a glue line with an angle of 45 degrees to the edge. A cut at this angle must be made very accurately. Even a slight deviation will not allow the parts to connect tightly.

A miter box will help to accurately and accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 degrees. This device, made of hardwood, is a block with two parallel sides, in which oblique slots provide the saw with the desired position. Moreover, in three positions, that is, the saw can divide the bar obliquely to the left or right, or at a right angle.

The plank should lie tightly in the miter box: any displacement of it can lead to a change in the cutting angle.

It is best to fix the part with a clamp. Well, if the miter box itself is fixed on a workbench, or at least has a stable position with an emphasis. Sawing on a miter box with a saw with a "back" or a saw for fine sawing.

With frequent use of the miter box, its sides can be damaged, which will inevitably lead to a distortion of the cutting angle. Such a miter box will have to be replaced.

There are also expensive miter boxes made of metal. They don't wear out and last a long time.

how to cut timber at 45 degrees

The miter box will help to accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.

In the arsenal of a home master there is always a multifunctional and comfortable circular electric saw. However, there are situations when it is required to saw off a part and perform a small amount of woodwork, and there is no time or desire to deploy and connect the unit. In many cases, a hand hacksaw comes to the rescue. Alas, how to choose a manual hacksaw for wood, so that it is comfortable during work and easily and simply “gnawed through” any species of tree species, let's see in detail.

The saw is really considered the ancestor of a huge family of hand tools. Since the creation of the first type of tool from iron, the saw has undergone a huge number of configurations, having managed to acquire countless “sisters” capable of doing 10 jobs.

In the household, it is unrealistic to do without "toothy helpers": they are indispensable when trimming the garden, small carpentry and joinery work

Hand saws for wood differ from each other in many ways: blade size, steel grade, tooth shape, handle design. Let's dwell on each parameter in detail.

The main part of the tool is a hacksaw blade. The first place to look when choosing products for yourself is the length of the canvas. For this reason, the ability of its implementation depends almost in everything on the parameter. At the same time, the longer the canvas, the more it simply springs, which also complicates the process, especially when working with hard woods such as ash, maple, in other words beech.

The long stroke allows less effort to be applied when sawing, since in one stroke the cut is made by a huge number of teeth

For sawing small parts such as skirting boards, bars or narrow slats, many get by with a hacksaw with a blade length of 25-30 cm. When planning to use the tool when performing more severe construction work, choose a product with a blade of 45-50 cm.

When determining the length of the hacksaw blade, follow the rule that the length of the saw exceeds the diameter of the parts being processed by two. If you do not follow this advice, you will only complicate the work for yourself. The teeth of a short hacksaw will jam inside the wood, and in order to advance the tool to free it from sawdust, one will have to make a lot of effort. Uncomfortable work will cause premature lethargy.

Usually the width of the fabric of the product varies in the range of 10-20 cm. Models with a narrower fabric are not allowed for technical reasons, as they become unusable with the smallest twist. Alas, it is worth considering that very wide canvases are inconvenient for manual production.

Of no small importance is the material of fabric production, which in most cases is alloy steel, and additionally its degree of hardening.

For hacksaws, tool alloy steel with the highest content of silicon and carbon grades is used:

• 65G, 60 S2A;
• 8 HF, 9 HF, 9 HS;
• U7, U7A, U8, U8A, U8G, U8GA, U9A, U10

Hardening of the metal is carried out by applying the influence of alternating magnetic fields there, when an electronic current of the highest frequency occurs. Spreading over the surface, it heats the surface layer of the metal, which hardens after cooling.

The standard parameter is the metal hardness of 45 HRC, however it is better to choose products whose web hardness is 55-60 HRC. A hacksaw with a blade of the highest hardness has sufficient elasticity, but the highest stability of the teeth. During external examination, such a tool is determined by the darkish color of the sharpened teeth.

The determining indicator of the performance of the tool and the accuracy of cutting wood is the size of the teeth.

The teeth of a hacksaw for woodworking have a dual function: they cut wood and at the same time remove sawdust

Read also

Sawing accuracy is determined by the "TPI" indicator - the number of teeth per inch.

There is an inverse relationship between these technical parameters:

• canvases with large teeth set the highest speed of work, but the saw cut with all this comes out rough and sloppy;
• hacksaws with small teeth guarantee a clean and precise cut, but at a relatively low working speed.

When determining the desired size of the teeth, one should be guided by the type of material being processed. For example, for work with chipboard, where the highest precision of the cut is required, choose a tool with the highest TPI 7-9, for sawing logs and gardening, where the cleanliness of the cut is not so significant - TPI 3-6 .

When choosing a rational version of a hacksaw for yourself, be guided by the rule that a small thickness of a log should be, as a result, not just a step of 3 teeth

When to associate a hardened and ordinary tooth, the difference lies in the fact that in the first variant, in the circumstances of everyday use, the product does not dull for a long time. However, a hacksaw with a hardened tooth can no longer be sharpened again. When she starts to cut badly, she will just have to be thrown out.

An ordinary tooth can be sharpened. At times, there is an option to do it with the help of a special file marked with an accident (for sharpening saws). To sharpen the blade, it is enough to perform several movements on each tooth.

Based on the type of teeth used, there are three types of hand saws:

1. For longitudinal sawing. Products are equipped with teeth in the form of an oblique triangle and look like hooks on the outside. The tool allows you to cut wood along the fibers. Such saws have sharpening from 2 sides of the tooth, therefore they are able to cut both when passing forward and in the opposite direction.
2. For cross cutting. The teeth of the tools are made in the form of isosceles triangles. A similar design makes it easy to cut through the material both in forward cutting and in reverse. However, this type of tooth is only suitable for working with dry blanks, but not the freshest tree species.
3. For mixed sawing. Products have a combined composition in which triangular edges are mixed with slightly elongated semicircular notches. This solution allows, when moving the hand forward, semicircular teeth to make a guide cut, and when returning, to expand the channel with a triangular one, removing chips and sawdust with its use.

Some types of modern tools are equipped with teeth that are made in the shape of a trapezoid. This solution makes the fabric stronger and more durable.

However, it is worth considering that sharpening such a blade is very problematic, since it is difficult for trapezoidal teeth to give the desired shape. This significantly reduces the service life of the product, after which it is necessary to change the canvas, as it is also called, to get a new tool.

For sawing new branches, it is more convenient to use blades equipped with triangular teeth processed by parallel sharpening, at which one the element is sharpened only a positive moment in that and in a checkerboard pattern

Often in market conditions we also meet a modernized type of hacksaws.

How to quickly and easily sharpen a hacksaw with a file

Both narrow and ordinary saws are prone to twists with increasing rigidity of the material being processed. In these cases, it is excellent to use canvases equipped with a backing, which acts simply as a stiffener.

Hand saws equipped with a butt are designed to create shallow cuts in a wooden surface of any thickness.

The presence of the butt does not allow the saw to make a cut deeper than the width of the blade, as it prevents the cutting blade from passing further into the tree.

Bow-type saws are more massive devices, acting as an analogue of a jigsaw.

The main purpose of saws of this type is to create a clear cut while working with surfaces located at any angle.

Due to the solidity of the design and the threaded connections of the handles, bow-type saws are able to easily overcome knots, cutting along radii and curvilinear patterns.

Depending on the purpose and design solution, the saws will:

• swing - for longitudinal cutting;
• transverse - for sawing blanks across the wood fiber;
• rounded - for cutting holes, making roundings and figured sawing;
• spiked - for cutting connecting spikes, as well as cutting out ordinary geometric shapes on a workpiece.

Only with a bow-type hacksaw it is possible to cut the material up and down, sawing blanks with difficult lines and doing the work alone without recruiting an assistant.

The procedure for choosing a hand saw for wood is quite simple:

1. Determine the purpose for which the tool will be used. For carpentry work, choose products with small teeth that provide the highest sawing accuracy, for carpentry - blades with large teeth.
2. Implementation frequency. If the hand saw will be used only for one-time work, choose a tool with hardened teeth. The resource of operation of this type of products is quite large. Already today, there is no need to worry about sharpening and setting teeth during use.
3. Canvas uniformity. While inspecting the tool, try to carefully bend the blade, setting an angle of 30-45 °, and then release it. Re-examine the blade: the smallest difference in the fold point, even at a time of 2.4 mm, indicates poor quality of the metal.
4. Product price. As well as choosing other tools, keep in mind that high-quality models from leading brands are always many times more expensive than consumer goods. This overpayment acts in some way as a guarantee of wear resistance and durability of the saw. Alas, for one-time work it is pointless to spend money on an expensive tool.

How to do the wiring of hand saws on wood

Ordinary pens are made of plastic. Prefabricated plastic handles, made of 2 halves, do not have sufficient rigidity. It is much more convenient to work with inventory that has a solid-cast handle, which is armed with a rubberized finger pad. The presence of a rubber insert makes a tighter grip, preventing the formation of calluses on the palms.

Look at the design of the tool handle: it is better that it has an ergonomic shape that allows you to correctly transfer force to the canvas

There are products with regular and flip-over handles for sale. The second option is comfortable in that it allows you to change the worn canvas to a new one if you wish.

Keep in mind that initially, that not all hand saws are already sharpened for sale. And from this, it is impossible to imagine # in cases of the absence of these very teeth, the little things in almost everything depend on how soon it will not be difficult to start work.

How to choose the right blade for a circular saw for wood - step by step summary This is the main reason why this electric / tool (aka trimming, circular saw, circular saw) is currently being purchased for ...

Although power saws now dominate the vast majority of carpentry shops, sooner or later you will inevitably encounter situations where manual sawing can be made easier or more efficient. Here's how to get the most out of hand saws in critical situations.

When you need a hand saw

Some operations, such as trimming protruding dowels and plugs flush with the surface, forming oblique tenons, or sawing off short finishing profiles, are best done by hand. It is often faster and safer to cut cross-cut into blanks with a conventional hacksaw than trying to balance with a long board at a saw machine. And many carpenters simply enjoy hand-cutting tenons and other joints.

Although a hacksaw is often the best tool, the cuts usually don't come out as clean as a miter saw or a high quality circular saw. Therefore, when the quality of the cut is important, sawing by hand should be slightly to the side of the intended line, and then remove the allowance by planing or grinding, or sawing to the final size on a machine with a saw blade.

Three main saws

Of all the varieties of hand saws in every workshop, it is useful to have these three.

Japanese saws.

Such saws, various in size and design, including options with a back, work when moving "on themselves". This stretches the steel blade, making it thinner than for push saws. A stretched thin blade is less deformed and less likely to get stuck in the cut. Many consider this method of sawing more controllable. Japanese saws are used both for filing to size and for making joints.

If you often need to saw off protruding plugs and dowels flush, add a Japanese hacksaw with no set teeth to your collection - it leaves almost no scratches on the surrounding surface. (For most saws, the teeth are set apart, that is, slightly bent to both sides alternately so that the width of the cut is greater than the thickness of the blade, and this is necessary so that the blade does not get stuck in the cut).

Classic longitudinal and transverse hacksaws.

Today, traditional European-style saws have a different number and shape of teeth, allowing them to cut faster and with less effort. For most tasks, it is convenient to have a 350 mm hacksaw (saw length is measured along the teeth). A hacksaw 550-650 mm long for transverse cutting of long boards or sawing out draft blanks will also not hurt.

Edge saw.

Designed for more precise cuts and joining, this saw usually has finer teeth than conventional hacksaws. Its distinctive feature is a steel or brass butt on the upper edge of the blade, which gives rigidity and increases the accuracy of sawing.

How to cut with a saw correctly!

When hand sawing, stand in front of the workpiece and make sure that your elbow, wrist, and end of the saw blade are in a straight line at all times. The movements of the arm should be straight, starting from the shoulder, reminiscent of the movements of the piston in a steam engine. Hold the saw at a right angle to the workpiece, looking at the reflection on the side of the blade.

The workpiece should not look broken along the cut line. Make long strokes so that all teeth engage in sawing and wear evenly. As you near the end of the cut, support the part you are cutting so that it does not break off, leaving chips at the corner of your workpiece.

Hold the instrument correctly. Take a classic European hacksaw by inserting three fingers into the notch of the handle, and point your index finger forward along the handle (left photo). The long handle of a Japanese saw must be completely covered with the palms of both hands (right photo).

Teeth must be sharp

Hang the saw on a nail or wear a saw to protect the teeth when stored.

Saws with induction hardened teeth stay sharp three times longer than non-hardened ones.

If the blade gets stuck in the wood or the cut always deviates in the same direction, the cause must be sought in improper sharpening and setting of the teeth. If you do not yet have the skills and experience for independent divorce and sharpening of teeth, seek the help of professionals.

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Choose the right cooling solution
Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is wrong to use water as a lubricant when operating band saws. There is no need to use lubricant at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” on the saw. In the event that this happens, optimal lubrication should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubricating chainsaw tires.
This mixture should be evenly sprayed on both sides of the bandsaw blade. And in this case, ordinary car glass cleaners work perfectly. There should not be a lot of cooling solution, the operator will easily notice by the characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
Using this lubricant instead of water will also reduce the amount of blooming boards, and extend the life of the belts on the sawmill drive pulleys, since they will no longer “limp” from sawdust and water falling on them.
Relieve tension from the band saw as soon as you stop sawing
In the process of sawing wood, the canvas heats up, and therefore, stretches, increases in length. As the blades cool, they tend to shrink back to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words, excess voltage. The canvas also “records in memory” the shape of both sawmill pulleys, which also does not make its life carelessly long. Add to this the inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the blade, as well as the “hump” on the belt that buckles over time, which ensures the saw is self-centering on the pulleys.
Band saws - correct wiring
The layout can be considered optimal when a mixture of 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air is present between the cutting blade and the treated wood. Ejection of 80-85% of sawdust from the cut indicates that your saw is set correctly.
If the saw set is too large, a large amount of loose sawdust will remain on the cut, and, most likely, characteristic scuffs and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small divorce of the saw, tightly pressed, hot sawdust remains on the surface of the board. You can't imagine anything worse for a saw. The sawdust should feel warm to the touch, not hot or cold.
A saw that is set too far is likely to run in jerks, and a saw that is not set too far will leave “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing a log with a diameter of 30 cm at a good feed, everything goes like clockwork. Do not think that everything will be fine with a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now you need to remove twice as much sawdust from the cut. Correctly! Divorce should be increased (approximately 20%). Therefore, among other recommendations, we allow ourselves the following: before sawing, logs should be sorted by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be bred, in no case under the “root”. After all, only a sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the sawing process. Do not forget also that the softer the tree you are sawing, the larger the divorce should be.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the blade is sharpened after wiring, and not vice versa. Sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when setting.
And finally, never turn off your intuition, formulas will not help here.
The Importance of Checking the Adjustable Device Indicator Regularly
Do not forget about such a device on your adjustable device as an indicator. It doesn't cost anything to reset it. It works in an extremely intense mode, judge for yourself: your saw has approximately 220 teeth, you sharpen the saw 15 times, it turns out that the indicator works 3.5 thousand times during the life of the saw. The indicator wears out over time, so check its installation more often.
Band saws - tooth shape
If the idea crosses your mind that a saw will work great no matter what shape the tooth has, chase that thought away. The shape of the tooth has been developed and verified over the years. Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?
Practical advice: when you go to buy canvases again, ask for a piece of canvas about 30 centimeters, make a hole in it and chain it to a grinding machine. Here is the standard by which you can copy the shape of the tooth!
Some problems that arise during the operation of band sawmills and how to solve them
At the entrance to the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it works smoothly, until the end of the log, after which it falls down. This is the so-called "squeezing" or "squeezing", that is, when the saw is squeezed out. Most likely, the reason is that the angle of sharpening the tooth is too large. Try decreasing the angle by 2 degrees.
At the entrance to the wood, the saw went up. The result is a curved board like a saber. The reason is that the sharpening angle of the tooth is too large with insufficient wiring. Try decreasing the angle of the tooth by 2 degrees, and increasing the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
The saw dives and then goes straight. This behavior is due to several reasons, for example, the cutting blade has become dull. However, most likely, the sharpening angle is small, or maybe the sharpener simply did not fill the stone in time. Look at the canvas carefully, if the shape of the tooth seems perfect to you, then you should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees.
The saw "dives", and the resulting board is curved, like a saber. The angle of sharpening is small and at the same time the wiring is insufficient. You should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees and increase the set by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
There are too many sawdust loose to the touch on the board. Divorce is too big. If you look closely, you can see characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
The sawdust on the board is pressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is not enough. Should be increased.
Wavy cut. If the saw is sharp, it is due to too little set, increase the set by 0.006-0.008 inches per side. Remember, working with an unset saw is the most flagrant violation of technology, leading to a blade break!
The fabric is cracking at the trailing edge. This is because the back stops of the idlers are too far from the trailing edge of the blade. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sawdust "rolls" on the saw blade. The divorce is small and there is not enough air left in the cut, excessive friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to heating and “baking” of wood dust onto the metal. Increase the set 0.005" per side.
The sawdust "rolls" on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. Poor quality of sharpening (too much feed or too much metal removal, and, consequently, poor surface quality at the tooth cavity), or too large a sharpening angle of the tooth. Or they continued to cut the canvas after it had already become dull.
After regrinding, the blade is covered with cracks in the cavity of the tooth. This is usually associated with a change in the geometry of the tooth. Compare the tooth geometry with the original. And last but not least, a note. Many problems are created by the fact that the sharpening stone is not refueled often and accurately enough.
If you consider the recommendations mentioned above to be irrelevant, you may not adhere to them. Remember, no matter how perfect the machine you purchase, it remains a device for “running” the saw blade through the wood. 90% of the result depends on the correct maintenance of the band saw blade and only 10% on the overall setting of the machine!

Myths and reality of band sawing

Part 4.1
Band saw tooth setting
Any timber merchant who is going to buy a sawmill, of course, hopes to make a profit. But you need to remember that for the stable operation of the sawmill, it is necessary to prepare saws with high quality. And you have to do it almost every day. In previous articles, we talked about setting up the process of preparing band saws, about a new method of sharpening saws, and also started talking about one of the most difficult processes in preparing saws for work - the process of setting teeth. In this post, we will talk more about this process.
Work on band saw machines, or, as they are more commonly called, band sawmills, however, like on any other equipment, consists of two main parts - organizational and technical. Many people neglect the first part, thinking in vain that all organizational issues can be solved directly in the process of work. The result of such neglect is barely breathing or closing production. In this article I will try to describe the problems that should be solved before buying equipment.
We are often asked: on the band sawmill of which manufacturer and in what configuration is it best to cut? It seems to many that our rich experience of dealing with hundreds of owners of sawmills and with almost all of their manufacturers, knowing the problems they face on a daily basis, will help to give an accurate answer to this “simple” question. In fact, on the list of sawing questions, this, although a very important question, should be at the last place. Those who first bought a sawmill and only then thought about how to properly organize work on it usually organized this very work for a very long time, and some could not set up production at all in order to receive 500-1,000, and not 50-100 rubles from sawn cubic meter of sawlog. At the same time, most often they blame all the failures on the fact that they bought the wrong sawmill.
In order to get a good profit when sawing logs with narrow (27-60 mm wide) band saws, several basic issues must first be resolved. Moreover, without solving at least one of the issues listed below, it is better not to undertake such sawing at all, because otherwise you will get a lot of problems and a complete headache.
1. It is necessary to work independently as a machinist and sharpener at an existing sawmill. It is to work for 1-2 weeks, and not to look at work for 1-2 hours. If you do not do this, you will never be able to understand the intricacies of production. And as a result, machinists and sharpeners will give many reasons why they cannot work better, and you will not be able to correctly assess the correctness of their arguments, which means that you are unlikely to get the maximum profit.
2. Will you be able to spend at least 10-12 hours a day in production for at least the first year in order to control and debug the entire work process? Do not think that this can be entrusted to your companion, much less a hired master. Unfortunately, a companion can rarely be trusted, and any hired craftsmen most often deceive entrepreneurs. I know more than one example when hired craftsmen live very well in poorly functioning industries without constant control of the owners.
3. It is necessary to decide how the saw log will be cut:
a) on order, sawing the required dimensions of sawn timber from the sawlog, that is, it is not optimal, each time losing 10-15% of the possible output volume, saving a little on storage costs;
b) with the optimal cutting of each log, obtaining the maximum yield of sawn timber, but at the same time partially sending finished products to the warehouse, with a delay in the sale of slow-moving sizes, that is, with a slight freezing in time of working capital, although in the end more profit.
4. Will you yourself first saw the sawlog with the optimal yield of lumber and train your assistant to work in this way, so that you can replace yourself later, or do you already have an experienced machinist who will immediately work perfectly, and not just “drive cubes”. Almost all machinists are paid for sawn cubic meters of sawlogs, and not for the edged lumber obtained from this sawlog. Therefore, it is more profitable for them to quickly cut out thick boards, timber and take another log. Large slabs and large parts when cutting unedged boards usually go to waste. And that's the lost profit. Depending on how well the production is organized, the percentage of finished product yield can range from 50 to 75%.
5. Decide how the drivers will receive the saws:
a) you will simply issue them as needed, that is, the machinists will not be interested in the long operation of the saw and will be able to calmly tear them one after another, and you will only listen to their claims that the framer does not know how to saw, and the sharpener does not sharpen the saws correctly, and calculate your losses
b) interest everyone in caring for the saw and sawmill.
Here is an example. Payment to workers is calculated as follows: for cutting 1 m³ of sawlogs, the driver receives 76 rubles, two assistants - 62 rubles each. Only 200 rubles. This includes the cost of a band saw at the rate of cutting 40 cubes of sawlogs with one saw. If the saw cuts more before breaking, the earnings are higher, respectively. More than 100 cubes began to be sawn with a saw. The only clarification: sawing is carried out with bimetallic saws. Deducted for a torn saw: from the driver - 450 rubles, from each assistant - 200 rubles. Only 850 rubles. If the saw is torn on a nail, then a new one is issued free of charge. The sharpener receives an average salary (if he serves several sawmills) from all machinists. Thus, they are all interested in keeping the saws running for as long as possible. And now no one needs to follow them.
Drivers closely monitor the operation of the sawmill, since even its slight misalignments (beating of the pulleys, walking of the saw on the pulleys, changing the correct settings of the guide rollers, uneven supply of coolant, grinding of the cleaning scrapers, etc.) lead, in addition to the formation of a wave on the lumber, also to an accelerated breaking the saw, which is very disadvantageous for them. And any malfunction is easiest to eliminate at the beginning - there will be less marriage, and subsequent possible large repair downtimes are practically excluded. In order to avoid large waste, various systems of fines can be applied. As practice shows, once or twice fined machinists cut much more competently. But all this works only when there are several crews and, in extreme cases, the driver can be replaced by his assistant. When the driver works alone, it is very difficult to cope with him.
6. Find a good mechanic in advance, that is, a person who will debug the work of the sawmill and will constantly monitor it, keeping it in good condition.
7. Solve the problem of the band saw preparation site, taking into account that any sawmill is only a saw pulling device with a set of service functions. The quality of the sawn timber obtained during sawing (dimensional accuracy, straightness (without wave) of the surface), and the productivity of the sawmill (the amount of sawn timber sawn per unit of time, that is, the actual profit) almost completely depend (with an adjusted sawmill) on the correct daily preparation of saws . There are two options:
a) find a highly qualified sharpener in advance who will be able to try (most often unsuccessfully) to prepare saws daily on inexpensive, low-quality and obsolete grinding and adjustable machines. The result of such preparation is quickly torn saws, low-quality lumber (wave on the surface), low productivity;
b) you can buy right away, paying a little more, good sharpening and adjustable machines, on which almost any person can prepare saws with high quality every day and saw them with maximum profit for themselves. How to choose the right sharpening and adjustable machines was described in previous issues of the magazine.
8. Decide how the sawing process will be organized:
a) with minimal costs, but also with minimal profit: sawing is carried out by one driver and one assistant, the saw unit works only 20-25% of the working time, the rest of the time is spent on feeding the log, preparing it for sawing (leveling, tilting, etc.). ) and removal of the resulting finished lumber;
b) with slightly higher costs, but in the end (due to increased productivity) an increase in real profit - the most common option. Sawing is carried out by one machinist and two assistants, the saw unit has been working for 25-35% of the working time;
c) with the highest possible performance at the lowest initial cost. Sawing is carried out by one driver with two assistants, but at the same time an additional 6-meter section is attached to the main rail track. Two logs are stacked in series. Now, when one log is being cut, the assistants perform the necessary operations with another. The saw unit works 35-50% of the working time.
9. Decide which market you want to work in:
a) internal;
b) external.
When working for the domestic market, the productivity of the sawmill due to a possible increase in the feed of the saw unit can be 10-15% higher. The small deviations of the nominal dimensions obtained in this case or a small wave on the surface are of no fundamental importance.
10. Decide what you want to saw at the sawmill:
a) sawing is not very fast, but very high quality (furniture panels, valuable wood species, etc.), sawlogs are mostly large (more than 40 cm) in diameter;
b) sawing into edged lumber, mainly sawlogs with a diameter of up to 40 cm.
When working according to option a), you will need additional hydraulic or electromechanical devices, an electronic ruler, automatic reverse return of the saw unit.
When working on option b), it is worth seriously considering how necessary these systems are. With all due respect to such systems, they improve working conditions at the sawmill, reducing its real productivity by 10-20%, and besides, they constantly break down.
An experienced machinist will tune in to the desired size much faster than electronics (the movement of the saw unit up and down must be electromechanical) and return the saw unit after cutting back. I know many who started working with these electronic components, but then they were simply turned off so as not to interfere. Two assistants perform all operations with a log much faster than hydraulics or electromechanics, and even during real work with logs with a diameter of 25-35 cm they practically do not get tired. It is only necessary that the stops are not screw, but eccentric. Do you agree to such losses in productivity, especially since the installation of these systems, as a rule, doubles the cost of a sawmill?
11. Decide what real sawlog diameters you will be sawing:
a) mostly diameters greater than 40 cm - when sawing such a sawlog, you need a sawmill with pulleys of at least 600 mm, which allows you to work with a band saw up to 60 mm wide and a saw length of more than 6 m;
b) more than 90% will be less than 40 cm in diameter - it is worth considering whether it is necessary to overpay a lot for the opportunity to cut three to five large logs per month. They can be cut in extreme cases in a circle. With pulley diameters of 520-560 mm, the cost of a sawmill is usually up to 30% less. When cutting with a saw with a width of 32-40 mm and a length of 4-4.5 m, while obtaining the same quality of lumber and the productivity of the sawmill, you will not constantly overpay almost one and a half times for the width and length of the band saw with almost the same cut to break each cubic meter of sawlogs.
12. Decide if you need a debarker. In my opinion, this is really not the most expensive, but a very useful device, as it allows the band saw to work until it becomes dull much longer, especially if a dirty log is being cut.
13. Decide if you need a laser pointer. It is also a very handy device, as it allows assistants to set the log faster and more accurately, thereby increasing the productivity of the sawmill and reducing waste, which often increases with suboptimal cuts.
Only when you solve all the questions listed above, you can start choosing a specific sawmill with the necessary equipment. Let's go back to the original question. So all the same, which band sawmill is better than others: it breaks less, cuts with high quality and is not very expensive? The paradox is that I cannot answer this question. Almost all manufacturers that exist today have been producing sawmills for 10-15 years or more. The rich experience allowed the designers of these industries to develop and manufacture very good new modifications to sawmills, which are practically not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of parameters, and at a price much lower. Real profit can be made much faster by building your production on the basis of Russian sawmills. But the problem of all our productions is that our manufacturers could always develop and produce a prototype and show a polished model at exhibitions, and receive diplomas for these design works. But, unfortunately, almost no one can constantly produce high-quality products. Making a high-quality weld, manufacturing components for exact observance of all necessary parallelism and perpendicularity only in special conductors, the concept of tolerances when connecting components of 0.01 mm or 0.1 °, high-quality electrical wiring connection and much more, that is, everything that can be called one capacious expression - the culture of production is still a practically impossible requirement for many of our manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing a sawmill from a Russian, Belarusian, Ukrainian manufacturer, you should always remember that you are buying a constructor that you will assemble and bring to a greater or lesser extent to a normal state for the first 1-3 months. There is nothing terrible here. It's just that at the initial stage, either a good personal experience or the presence of a competent mechanic is required. But then these sawmills will work no worse than imported ones, and the money saved can be used in the form of working capital or spent on the purchase of additional equipment.
Much is said and written about the low productivity of sawing sawlogs by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide.
For reference, I will give the following figures: with a well-functioning sawmill, high-quality preparation of the saw and organization of the sawing process according to option 8b, the average yield of edged lumber should be 1 m³ per hour with a real exit from the log of 70-75% of the finished product. With the correct organization of production, working in several shifts, it is realistic to receive 400-600 m³ of finished edged lumber per month from only one sawmill.
Now, if you independently calculate all the initial costs, productivity, real output of finished products from one log, you can be sure that sawing up to 3 thousand m³ of sawlogs per month by band sawmills operating with narrow saws 27-60 mm wide will be the most economically feasible. compared to all other sawing methods.
I am sure that all the talk about the impossibility of working productively and obtaining good quality lumber at sawmills of this type is carried out by those who simply did not manage to properly organize the work of their production.

How to work on a band sawmill

Pro Tips
1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE
The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, rails. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame with a cutting tool (band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.
The use of a band sawmill allows you to:
to produce boards with high surface quality from the material
receive a BOARD with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;
band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,
reduce energy costs;
quickly adjust the sawing size,
The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.
the band sawmill works in the conditions of UHL 4 (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical type saw unit lift.
2. "Band sawmills" - work and device:
2.1 The main components and parts of the band sawmill:
A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;
saw frame;
Raising the saw frame mechanism;
Electric cabinet;
log clamp;
Movable slider of the driven pulley;
Leading pulley;
Driven pulley;
V-belt transmission;
Rail guides of a band sawmill;
Tensioning band saw mechanism;
Band saw mounting socket;
Band saw sheave cover
coolant tank
Saw guide fixed
Saw guide movable
The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The lifting of the saw frame is carried out by two sliders located on the racks of the bed. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.
The frame is made of two channels, which are parallel and interconnected. On one end of the frame, the leading saw pulley is fixedly fixed, on the other end, the driven one, which has the possibility of longitudinal movement. The band saw blade is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens the thermal expansion of the saw band. In the manufacture of a band sawmill, the tension for a saw with a width of 35 centimeters is calibrated. The risks of the W tensioner housing and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw band. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame, two band saw guides (movable and fixed) are installed, which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and a bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley - V-belt transmission. The coolant reservoir is fixed on top of the saw-bevel guard. The supply of liquid is regulated by taps located on the tank. The band sawmill control panel is located on the top jumper of the machine.
Guides collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. Below are the base plates into which the anchor bolts are screwed. On top of the guides of the band sawmill supports the logs. The log on rail guides is fixed with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS
3.1. The machine provides for adjusting the position of both pulleys relative to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg / mm sq. in cross section by one branch did not leave the rims of the saw pulleys.
3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in a vertical plane, exposing them at a right angle with respect to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, the Ml0 bolt is screwed in from below to its axis, and on the driving pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is performed by the manufacturer.
3.3 To adjust the position of the saw pulleys of the horizontal plane, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed to the axis of the driven pulley.
It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:
3.3.1 Turn off the automatic power supply on the control panel.
3.3.2 Open the saw pulley guards.
3.3.3 Install the band saw on the pulleys in such a way that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the value of the tooth height plus 2-5 mm.
3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).
3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the nut of the tension mechanism to the optimum value for this type of band saw (based on 6-8 kg/mm2).
3.3.6. Turning the hand for the driven pulley in the direction of sawing (counterclockwise), you need to look at what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the tape runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then without loosening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slider).
3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and the M16 lock nut.
3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs off, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.
3.3.9 If the band runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.
3.3.10. Loosen the Ml6 lock nut, M12 lock nut and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.
3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment is correct.
3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs off the drive pulley during rotation, then the adjustment should be started from it.
3.3.13 To do this, depending on the direction from which the belt runs (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and adjust in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.
3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.
3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley covers.
3.3.16 Turn on the e-mail dispenser. energy on the control panel.
3.3.17 Briefly switch on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready to work.
4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BANDS
1. During the operation of the band sawmill, in order to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.
1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined by the device "Tensometer".
1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung out in a free state for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stresses.
2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.
As a cutting fluid (coolant), in most cases, just water is enough, or water with the addition of detergent (“Fairy”, etc.). However, at low temperatures it is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or chainsaw tire oil. Good results when sawing conifers are also given by the use of turpentine.
In the case of using water as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and the belt with oil at the end of the work.
3. Always loosen the band saw tension.
When you're done, take the tension off the saw. When working, the blades heat up and stretch, and then when cooled, they shrink by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period. Therefore, the belts left on the pulleys under load overload themselves, and the imprint of the two pulleys is formed on them, which causes cracks in the cavities between the teeth.
4. Use the correct tooth setting.
The setting is correct if you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air in the space between the saw blade and the treated wood. If your tooth setting is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood, there will be too much air in the cut and not enough sawdust. You will have excessive sawdust losses, and as a result, a large roughness of the processed wood. If the spread is not sufficient, you will not get enough air flow to remove sawdust from the kerf. Hot sawdust is a sign of this. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short, the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cold to the touch. And, finally, with insufficient divorce and the wrong sharpening angle, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with the same set of teeth with logs of different diameters, timber and cant.
You must sort the timber.
For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by about 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out control cuts of a certain log. Increase the set by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks are visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After that, reduce the setting of the teeth by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Note: You should only breed the top eight, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to fill completely when sawing. When you work with soft wood, whether wet or dry, the wood chips increase in volume by 4-7 times compared to their state at the cellular level. Hard woods, wet or dry, increase in volume only 1/2-3 times. This means that if you are sawing 45cm pine logs, you will need to set your teeth 20% more than when sawing 45cm oak logs. Always set teeth before sharpening.
5. Sharpen your saw properly.
There is only one way to sharpen band saws. The stone should travel down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth, and up along the back of the tooth in one continuous motion.
You must maintain the profile of the tooth and the interdental cavity.
The space between the teeth (gallet) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, the cooling of steel and the removal of sawdust depend on it.
If you have the correct set of teeth, the air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result, the sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it considerably as it passes around the inside and outside of the next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth be filled by 40%, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the time of the saw.
6. Set the correct sharpening angle.
Thanks to the deep gutters, we can use reduced sharpening angles that transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The series uses a 10 Degree hook angle that is able to penetrate most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.
The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.
Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your grinder!
The pins and guides on it wear out. In the course of work, the profile of the stone changes.
To control the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; we recommend changing saw blades every two hours of continuous operation, while allowing them to rest for at least a day.
During the operation of the machine, it becomes necessary to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.

If you decide to cut down a tree yourself and then remove the wood from the territory, you need to know the basic safety rules. And the efficiency of your work depends on the observance of the correct sequence of sawing wood. Of course, it is best to contact specialists on this issue, since such work is classified as dangerous and complex. The help of a professional will help to avoid possible injuries and damage on the territory of the log house.

Safety Rules for Cutting Wood

When felling trees, you must work with at least one partner. Cutting trees alone is undesirable. A partner will help you keep track of all aspects of work and safety. Also, you can not smoke and make fire during sawing. If a fire or other source of open fire is already lit on the territory, it should be extinguished before using the chainsaw.

Protect your face from sawdust or dust. Calculate the trajectory of the fall of the tree trunk so that it does not hit animals, people, buildings or electrical wires (cables). In strong winds, all work should be stopped, as air currents can change the landing site of the cut tree.

Compliance with safety precautions is an important link when working with wood.

Preliminarily clear the area around the tree and in the place of its future fall from all objects that can provoke its overturn or cause damage.

If you are sawing a thick wood pole, hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands, feeling the tension from the wood.

During operation, use the entire surface of the saw blade - this will reduce the recoil force and help to avoid accidental shutdowns of the device from overload. If you are sawing thick branches or poles, try to raise the tool above shoulder level.

Important safety points when cutting wood:

• when splitting dry wood, do not allow sparks or even smoke to enter the chainsaw - gasoline combined with dry wood can easily ignite and cause harm, not to mention slowing down the work process;
• before turning on the saw, make sure that there are no children and animals nearby; only employees or superiors can be around;
• always hold the saw in your hands, even when it is turned off - falling the tool can hurt someone or something below;
• start work in clothes made of dense fabric and in a mask that protects your face from dirt and dust;
• special headphones with soundproofing will help to avoid a headache from the prolonged noise of a chainsaw; this is especially important if you work regularly;
• when sawing, position yourself so that part of the tree trunk protects you from flying sawdust and dust.

The main stages of sawing wood

Make a corner cut on one side of the tree. To do this, you need to determine where the tree leans more. An angled cut is two inclined cuts that intersect approximately in the middle of a tree trunk, after which you can pull out a "slice" of wood.

A horizontal cut is made from the back of the trunk, which reaches the angle of the cut made earlier. The barrel under its own weight will “move out” towards the first notch and begin to fall.

If the calculations were made accurately, the sawn tree will fall in the right direction from which the first cut was made.

The processing of the trunk begins - branches and knots are cut down, the trunk is sawn across into several parts. Thin branches are cut in one step, thicker branches - in two. Do not let the chainsaw chain touch the ground - this will dull it faster. Cut the branches on which the trunk has fallen carefully so that the tree does not settle or begin to roll.

Stages of sawing wood.

The sawing of a tree pole starts from the top. First, cuts are made, marking the length of the detachable fragments of the trunk. Then the tree is cut into several pieces.

It is best to start cutting small branches from the base of the tree to its top - the lower part of the trunk lies more stable, which allows you to cut knots and branches without fear that the tree column will move.

How to cut a tree trunk correctly?

To cut trees into several pieces and not damage the chainsaw, you must first cut to the middle of the trunk and turn off the saw, leaving it in the wood. Then drive a wedge into the resulting hole to widen the gap. This is done so that the saw chain does not deform under the pressure of the two halves of the barrel. After expanding the hole, the tree is sawn to the end.

If the chainsaw bar is stuck in a tree, especially if it is hard wood, immediately turn off the device, and then try to pull the saw out while working on both halves of the trunk.

To do this, you need the help of a partner. This is one of the reasons why you cannot work alone when cutting down trees - there are too many moments in this business when you cannot do without the help of a second person.

How to cut wood?

After sawing down a tree, it is important to properly divide it in order to get as many finished wood materials as possible - boards, beams, etc. It is best to cut a still fresh tree that has been cut down recently. Three factors affecting the quality of the finished wood product:

• the quality of the feedstock (the presence or absence of knots and bumps on the trunk);
• barrel thickness and shape;
• correctly chosen method of sawing wood.

At home, for sawing the trunk, you can use the main set of tools - an electric jigsaw, hand or electric saw.

Sawing with a jigsaw requires preliminary marking.

Sawing wooden beams with an electric jigsaw requires preliminary marking. To get smooth and neat products, you must follow the rules:

• sharpen the saw, and bend its teeth in different directions so that the chain does not get stuck in the wood;
• before work, make markings with a pencil, marker or pen; make sure that the marking lines do not cross the defective areas.

What are the types of wood sawing?

If you resort to laser cutting, sawing trees will be done accurately, saving time and raw materials - this technology allows you to accurately cut wood with a minimum amount of residue and waste. The laser can cut wood of any thickness. Cool the cut areas to avoid fire, as laser cutting heats the cut.

Types of sawing wood.

Machine tools for the production of wood materials are used on an industrial scale. These devices are very bulky, but can work for a long time without interruption. Among the machines, there are circular saw and multi-blade models. The former perform longitudinal and transverse sawing with a circular saw, while the latter saw and cut wood with several saws - simultaneously or alternately.

A tree sawing line is a complex of one or more machines. This device is expensive and is purchased only with a large amount of wood raw materials. There are several types of this type of machine:

• splitting and sawing - sawing and splitting logs of any breed using a chain or circular saw;
• round timber processing line - equipped with two saw modules and a pneumatic system that removes sawdust;
• log sorting line - helps to optimize sawmilling;
• optimizing line - automates the supply of stems for processing, allowing you to replace manual labor.

Frozen wood processing

Frozen wood is more difficult to cut than normal dry wood, so this type of sawing is a separate category. Since trees are often sawn in the cold season, the choice of the optimal method for processing such raw materials is an urgent problem. To do this, you will need tools with a more durable design - frozen wood becomes more durable due to the freezing of the moisture in it.

Video: Types of sawing wood