Carved wood porch. Porch for a wooden house: do-it-yourself manufacturing technology

Every person sooner or later thinks about where to spend the weekend or one evening alone or with family and friends. More and more relevant in resolving this issue is the purchase of a country mansion or cottage. By purchasing this property, the owner begins to equip his home. Often, modifications begin with the alteration of the porch.

Currently, the types of porches are distinguished by originality, practicality, convenience, beauty, and are ideally combined with the main building, decorating it. For the construction, modern building materials are used, they are selected taking into account the style of the house itself and serve for more than one year.

If we talk about the practical side and convenience, then it is better to choose a covered extension that will protect both in the rain and in the cold.

Characteristics

All extensions differ from each other in size, shape, style, location to the main building. So, a small vestibule of a simple appearance, without frills, is suitable for a small garden house. A medium-sized concrete structure is suitable for a house of standard sizes, and any shape can be given to it, whether it be rectangular, square, trapezoidal, round or asymmetrical.

But do not forget that the appearance of the porch is selected individually, in accordance with the overall design of the facade. The square and rectangular extensions are clearer and add rigor, accuracy, constancy to the house, while the round one adds softness, comfort, romance.

The porch is covered partially or completely. Each option is somewhat different in design and technical characteristics. So, a completely closed annex in all respects resembles a small room. This design has a floor, walls, ceiling, entrance doors leading to a closed platform. The fully enclosed porch of a private house is more practical, but it is more complex in design.

The semi-closed version has special poles for support. In addition, railings can be used for greater convenience. With a semi-closed design, the doors do not need to be installed.

There are many options on how to build a vestibule, veranda or balcony, as well as building materials. Some people like a more environmentally friendly option and their choice falls on a beam or a board, others - a brick in combination with glass, while others are crazy about poles with forged elements.

If you choose concrete, then it can be finished and decorated in every possible way to your liking. Some firms offer to fully glaze the vestibule, which adds style and at the same time comfort and transparency.

Covered outbuilding options

Before you start building an extension, evaluate all the nuances of the building itself - in what style it was built, what materials, what kind of foundation, windows, doors, and whether there is an exterior finish of the building. All this must be taken into account when choosing the design of the porch.

So, you can perform the following options for extensions:

Traditional wooden version– budgetary and practical at the same time. The porch is set on the foundation. A large-scale visor protects the entrance from moisture even if there are open fragments in the upper part where windows are installed. This version will look great with a wooden house.

Russian The porch version is a close relative of the rustic style, but with the addition of modernity and novelty. Such a vestibule-porch in a private house is necessarily made of timber or wood, has a large number of ornaments on the facade, railings, roof. In this option, naturalness is valued, that is, the tree is not painted with colored paints, but left natural, natural, preserving the natural pattern. Cover the beam only with varnish for greater durability.
Finnish style- full or partial glazing of the walls, looks good with wood and brick. Also in the design there are forged products that further emphasize the chosen direction. If the house is built in the Finnish style, then the porch should be small, but at the same time, in addition to wood, you can use stone in combination with glass as a building material.
Brick or concrete extension. Partially or completely closed with blank walls or glazed. Such a vestibule is ideal for a house made of bricks of the same color or stone.

Project

A kind of closed extension is a porch with a vestibule. This is a construction of a small area, most often 3X4 meters, which provides a comfortable microclimate of the dwelling. We will look good both with a one-story house and with a cottage. The vestibule can be made as a small separate house, in the form of a square, an extension with a transition to a glazed veranda, elevated with a staircase or ground. It is located both in the center, at the main entrance, and on the side, behind.

As a rule, the porch is formed on the foundation. For walls, brick, wood, rounded timber, concrete slabs, stone, blocks are chosen, and they can also be partially or completely glazed. The selected material should be similar to the material of the main building. The timber is selected for houses from a log house, slabs. Brick steps are suitable in most cases, but wooden planks can be used everywhere.

The difference between this design and the rest is that this porch looks like a small room - it has a floor, walls, windows, a door and a roof. It can be insulated and lit and used as a hallway.

If you are a fan of doing everything with your own hands and understand construction, then building a porch on your site will not be difficult. Its design can be different, the main thing is that the vestibule is combined with the main supporting building.

Glazing

Porch glazing can be done in several ways. It all depends on what goals the owner of a private house pursues. Currently, there is a huge selection of glazing options. These can be sliding and frameless systems, PVC, aluminum profiles or wooden windows. Each type has its own characteristics and this must be taken into account when building a porch.

PVC windows- the most popular and budget option. Plastic windows are warm and cold. Double glazing is used to insulate the extension. Now there is a huge selection of PVC profiles on the market, so it will not be difficult to match it in color and texture to the main building. But it will not be possible to completely glaze the entire porch or veranda with PVC windows without a partition, since they have a limited size (the maximum area of a PVC window is 2.8 m2). Another significant disadvantage of plastic windows is their rather large weight.

Aluminum systems allow you to glaze the porch with maximum light opening without any additional lintels. Windows are warm and cold. Warm 3-5-chamber double-glazed windows and special inserts, thanks to which they are heat and sound insulated. Cold windows have only one chamber and are equipped with lightweight fittings without any inserts, so they are often used for glazing summer extensions.
Wooden windows are a traditional, budget and simple option for porch glazing, if we talk about single 4 mm glass frames. But they do not retain heat in the extension during frost, so it is better to use more expensive wooden windows or 2-3-chamber double-glazed windows. Frameless glazing is an ideal solution if the porch needs to be closed from gusts of wind and precipitation, but it will not protect the extension from the cold. Typically, such glazing is used for the porch in a large country house or cottage.

DIY

A closed porch - although a non-residential structure, is nevertheless an important and functional element of any building. Building a porch with your own hands is not difficult, but you need to do it correctly and in stages.

The foundation of all foundations is a well-executed project. It is very important to calculate the parameters, as well as take into account the size of the porch, its height whether there will be a ladder and in which direction it is better to place it. You need to proceed from your own preferences and the amount of money. When designing, the ratio of the width of the extension and the doorway is also taken into account. All this can be seen in the drawings, which are drawn specifically for each plan.

After the plan is drawn up and all calculations are prepared, materials for construction are prepared and the foundation is laid, that is, the foundation is poured. From what raw materials the annex will be built depends entirely on the main building.

A wooden porch can be made on the basis of a bar. The boards are suitable for the construction of platforms and steps, and the side racks are best made from slats. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent decay.

After the foundation is ready, they begin to build walls, a roof or a visor, and also make a kosour (bearing part of the stairs) and steps. The railing and the visor are equipped at their discretion.

The porch performs not only decorative functions. In winter, it protects the front door from snow drifts, and in summer - from rain or heat. It can be made of metal, stone, brick, concrete, but the best option for a wooden house would be a solid wood porch. You can build a porch to a wooden house with your own hands if you approach this matter prepared, and for this we recommend that you read our article.

Porch dimensions

For a free approach to the front door and its opening, you need free space. According to building codes, the upper platform of the porch, adjacent to a single-leaf door, should have a width of 1.6 m, to a double-leaf door - from 2 m. The distance from the door to the first of the steps is 1 m. To protect against rain and snow, a canopy over the porch is made slightly wider than the site (30 cm).

Must be normalized width and height of steps, while the average step width of a person is taken as a basis. Their optimal height is 16-19 cm with a width of 25-33 cm. Since a person starts climbing stairs and finishes it with one foot, the number of steps should be odd.

Standard step sizes

In winter, the steps are often covered with ice, so the porch should be equipped with handrails. If there are more than 3 steps, their manufacture is mandatory. Standard railing height- 80-90 cm.

Important! The top platform of the porch should be 5-10 cm below the door threshold. Otherwise, during seasonal fluctuations in the soil, it may rise and block the door.

Foundation

The simplest foundation for a wooden porch are piles. They can be made from a wooden beam treated with an antiseptic or burned in a fire, or metal pipes. Depth such supports should be slightly lower (by 20-30 cm) than the level of soil freezing.

To install piles, a small layer of sand is first poured into the pits prepared for them, and then gravel. Such a pillow will remove moisture from the supports and protect them from premature decay.

Porch foundation on wooden piles

After installing the supports and leveling them, the space between them and the ground is filled with concrete mortar. Extreme supports attached to the wall of the house with large nails or self-tapping screws. Further work should be carried out only after the concrete has completely cured.

Important! In the event that a concrete foundation is chosen for the porch, it is necessary to provide between it and the base of the house expansion joint. Otherwise, during seasonal ground movements, due to the difference in the load on the supports, the foundation at the junction with the structure may crack. To avoid moisture ingress, such an expansion joint can be filled with any flexible material (rubber gasket, mineral wool, etc.), and then closed with a flashing.

An expansion joint should be provided between the base of the house and the porch

What is a kosour?

The side sloping boards to which the steps are attached are called bowstrings. The steps in them can be inserted into special grooves cut in the bowstring, fastened with screws, dowels, studs or special steel fasteners.

stair bowstrings

But most often stairs are made, the bowstrings of which have cutouts on which the steps lie. This type of bowstring is called kosour.

Stairs with one stringer are rare. Most often, the steps are mounted on two or (if the span is large enough and ranges from 1.2-1.5 m) on three supports.

Making a kosour

Staircase on three stringers

All kosoura are divided into two main types:

Ordinary stepped; have cutouts of a triangular shape, placed at an equal distance from each other; a significant disadvantage of this method is the thinning of the wooden beam after cutting it;

FROM "fillies": small bars (dowels) to support the steps, which are inserted into the slots of the stringers; quite complex, but more durable design.

Kosour with fillies

The kosour is the most complex structural element, so its dimensions and the width of the cutouts should be measured with great care. To facilitate the process, you can use a stencil made from a piece of plywood or thick, even cardboard.

Horizontal cutouts for steps in the stringer should be equal tread(step width). The size of the vertical section is riser(step height).

Important! When measuring the size of a kosour or bowstring, it should be taken into account that the tread of the first step should become a continuation of the site.

So that the support beams do not bend under the weight of people walking up the stairs, the boards from which the bowstrings or stringers will be made must be thick enough - from 60 mm with width from 30 cm. They are made of high-quality hardwood (spruce, pine, maple, oak or beech), which does not have cracks and knots.

More durable and reliable are stringers made of a metal profile. For this you can use steel corners.

Stringers from the channel

Porch Assembly

Before starting the assembly, to protect it from decay, the wood should be carefully treated with any antibacterial agents and painted several times with drying oil or varnish.

1. After the concrete mortar has hardened in the supporting pillars holes are punched for laying the upper part of stringers or aunts (they are attached without nails). The lower part of the bowstring should lie on support pads, resting on nickels.

Fastening the upper part of the stringer

Cuts for fastening the bottom of the stringer

2. On the supporting piles are placed lags and fastened with self-tapping screws. For their manufacture, 5-centimeter durable boards are used. They lay on the logs floorboards thickness from 2.5 cm.

3. To ensure ventilation between them, be sure to leave a small 20mm gap. The same gap is left between the steps and the tread. It is not necessary to make too large a distance between the boards - after all, during operation, the wood will dry out and the size of the cracks will increase.

4. Start laying steps from the bottom. If desired, you can do without risers, laying one tread.

Steps for the street porch can and should not be done

5. Treads and risers are attached to wide head screws. They are slightly (a couple of millimeters) recessed into the boards. For fastening, you can also use metal brackets. The ideal option would be to use boards with a tongue and groove system.

Fastening steps and risers

Having decided to build on an individual project, the private developer often finds that the porch, which is being built along with the house, accounts for a disproportionate share of the estimated costs. Designers and builders do not cheat here: the extra corners of the foundation and its protrusion under the porch require in-depth calculations and technical measures to ensure uniform shrinkage of the building. Therefore, in many cases it turns out to be advisable to build a house without a porch, and then attach a porch to it with your own hands. Moreover, such work is feasible for a person with initial experience as an amateur builder or who does not have one at all, and a porch correctly attached to the house will not affect the strength of the building structure.

Material selection

The porch to the house can be attached brick, stone, concrete, wood or steel, welded from profiles or cold forged. Brick is undesirable: natural soil chemistry, microflora and microfauna get on it with splashes during rain, which quickly destroy the material. It is for this reason that brick houses are built on a basement with a height of 400 mm or more. A completely forged or stone porch is difficult to perform and will be very expensive. It will be much easier and cheaper to build a porch of simple shapes and then revet it under a stone or the same brick or decorate it with overhead forged elements.

As for the aesthetic qualities of the remaining materials, the assertions that, they say, a concrete porch is needed for a concrete house, and a wooden porch for a wooden one, are not substantiated by anything. The houses in the photo below with a porch made of materials that seem to be incompatible with each other and with the main structural material of the building. However, it is immediately clear that they are combined. Technically, it is quite possible to attach a porch of any material to any house. What are we going to do.

Base

It is necessary to build a porch so that during seasonal ground movements and due to uneven shrinkage, the house and the porch do not affect each other. Cracks along the contours of the junction of the house with the porch are undesirable in any case, but in no case should they violate the design of both. Suddenly, the crack nevertheless went, it is necessary to be able to repair it without starting complex construction work.

The fulfillment of these conditions ensures a properly executed base of the porch. A private house and a porch subsequently attached to it must have separate foundations; this, generally speaking, is the general principle of building extensions to a house that has already shrunk. Schemes of the bases of the porches for different occasions are given in Fig., And we will analyze the ways of pairing the porch with the main structure along the way, because. for different materials of the porch, they are different.

Note: if the height of the slab foundation under the porch is more than 200 mm, then its reinforcement (see below) must be made 3-level. It is highly undesirable to replace non-buried and columnar foundations with masonry from ready-made concrete blocks, with rare exceptions (see below). then, due to the low weight load, the base of the porch will turn out to be unstable.

Wood

A wooden porch looks great in any home and with any decorative design. Building a wooden porch is the easiest. The base for a wooden porch also requires the simplest to complete: a columnar or shallow foundation, see fig. The last (on the right in the figure), in general, as they say, a song is one of 2 cases when ready-made concrete blocks can be used - “bulls” 400x400x200. If the span of the stairs of the porch (see below) from the forty board is up to 900 mm, a couple of “bulls” will suffice. Span up to 1300 mm - the treads of the steps are reinforced from below with backing bars 40x40. The span is longer - additional support blocks are needed.

On the 3rd fig. Below are typical projects of wooden porches. Typical design of individual housing is carried out by studying the requests of developers, therefore, it is quite possible that you will find a porch here that is suitable for you. But most importantly - pay attention to the ways of connecting wooden parts.

The great advantage of a wooden porch is that it is able to "play" according to the movement of the ground, while remaining tightly attached to the house. Therefore, a wooden porch does not need a particularly stable foundation. But it is also not necessary to “tighten” the frame of the wooden porch, it should walk a little as if on hinges, see fig. on right.

No special hinges are required; ordinary carpentry joints are quite elastic and pliable for this. Each porch in Fig. with the projects, it is done in such a way that it will win back the movements of the soil up to the strongly heaving one, without transferring excessive stresses to the structure of the frame house. And the “framework” will withstand, any other will survive.

Stairs

Stairs are the most difficult knot of any porch, and a wooden staircase is more difficult to make than others. However, heavy long-term work is not required for this, and a wooden staircase can be attached to any other porch. Therefore, it is from the stairs that you should start developing your own porch to the house.

Main elements

The ladder, as you know, can be made in bowstrings and on stringers (skewers), see fig. At the stairs in bowstrings, the ends of the platforms of the degrees - the risers - are closed by the beams that carry the steps, and at the stairs on the stringers, the ends of the steps are free. Wooden stairs for outdoor use are preferably made on stringers so that moisture does not stagnate in the gap between the bowstring and the step and does not cause the wood to rot.

The gap between the underside of the upper step and the tread of the lower one is called the riser; it can be open and closed (deaf). The steps of one flight of stairs, assembled in bowstrings or stringers, make up the flight of stairs. The overhang of the step over the riser (step overhang) allows you to increase the width of the tread without reducing the angle of inclination of the march, and, accordingly, the departure of the stairs - the length of its projection onto the underlying surface. Giving a step overhang of more than 30-40 mm is undesirable, people will cling to it with their toes. In order for the shoes to slip less over the overhang, the deaf riser is sometimes made beveled anteriorly flush to the front edge of the tread of the upper step.

Note: general schemes for the device and fastening of wooden stairs are given on the next. Fig., and we will deal with the details further.

Calculation

The outdoor stairs may be wet, icy. On it often rise tired, chilled and wet. Therefore, the height of the steps of the outer staircase should be kept optimal - 160-175 mm, and the angle of inclination of the march should be within 30-40 degrees. For the same reasons, the width of the tread is taken more than for internal stairs - 280-320 mm. It is not necessary to give it over 350, it will be inconvenient to ascend. The span of the outer staircase, in terms of walking in outerwear, should, if possible, be taken no less than the inner staircase of a double passage, i.e. from 1300 mm.

Note: the slope of the march is calculated as arctg(h/w), where h is the height of the step, and w is the width of the tread without overhang.

Also, for the convenience of walking and reducing the likelihood of slipping, stairs are designed so that a person descends from the last step with the same foot that stepped on the first. It follows that the steps of the ladder must be an odd number. According to these data, knowing the area available under the stairs from the outside, it is calculated. If the calculation does not converge in any way, it is necessary, firstly, to “play” with the size of the overhang. In addition, the stairs to the porch most often go to the platform. This allows the upper last, the so-called. frieze step, do it already. Well, and the space in front of the house to fit the removal of the stairs, most often, is also enough. Finally, you can vary the width of the platform, but if it goes out less than 750 mm, it is better to refuse the platform altogether.

Staircase on stringers

The most important node of the stairs to the porch is its connection with the building. On the left in fig. ways of pairing stairs on stringers without a platform are shown. Pairing according to pos. 1 (kosour with a gash) is preferable for a wooden house, which also “plays” well and shrinks less. The cross section of the platform beam (which in this case is attached to the lower crown of the frame or log house) here is enough 75x50 mm.

For fastening a kosour without gash (pos. 2 on the left), a platform beam of 100x50 mm in diameter is required. This method is preferred for attaching stairs to stone and concrete structures. In any case, the surface of the tread of the upper step should be located 50-60 mm below the top of the door threshold, based on further shrinkage of the house.

On the right in fig. - methods of fastening the flight of stairs to the platform, depending on the width of the frieze step. If the platform is wooden (see below), then it will be a damper between the stairs and the building; in this case, the stringer can be fixed tightly to the platform beam, for example, with steel corners and self-tapping screws. Otherwise, the kosour is attached to the beam with a tie-in without gash.

Methods for attaching steps to the stringer are shown in the following. rice. Mounting on fillies and steel holders is laborious, but the good thing is that you can put an ordinary bar 150x50 or 150x75 on the stringers. Molded lumber of greater width per cubic meter is significantly more expensive, because. great waste of wood when sawing timber.

Note: dowels in this case are wooden dowels, not furniture dowels!

Area

A wooden landing is usually a frame made of timber from 150x150. Support poles, if they are wooden - from the same timber. If the width / length of the platform exceeds 1.7 m, it is necessary to install a crossbar (s) also from a bar 150x150. The strapping bars of the frame and the crossbar at the junctions cut into half a tree.

The flooring of the platform is laid on the logs 150x50. The logs are placed parallel to the short side of the site in increments of up to 750 mm (under the flooring of the forty board) and cut into the frame and crossbars also half a tree. Floor boards must not be tongue-and-groove, they will rot! The porch area is covered with boards with rounded corners with gaps of 2-3 mm for water drainage. Spacer boards for mounting outdoor wooden decking are commercially available, on the left in fig.

Note: in general, the entire porch should initially be designed so that the ends of the boards / beams are protected from direct moisture. It is better to immediately give a little surplus and cut it off than to rack your brains later on what to do with rot. An example of the correct implementation of the porch railing is on the right in fig.

Staircase in bowstrings

The staircase on the stringers does not always fit the chosen design of the porch. In this case, the ladder in bowstrings must be designed in such a way that it is as stable as possible in external influences.

The general arrangement of a wooden staircase in bowstrings is shown in fig. You can get by with pairs of narrower boards for bowstrings instead of one wide one with the help of overlays for steps - surfboards - pos. a. The ribs are cut from a board material resistant to external influences, for example. OSB. Their thickness, for steps from forty and bowstrings from "fifty kopecks" - from 18 mm.

Fastening bowstrings with screw cords is the simplest and most reliable, but, you know, the pieces of iron stick out. Sufficiently reliable and invisible fastening with strands on steel wedges, however, bowstrings with a thickness of 75 mm or more are needed for it. Fastening on steel wedges is laborious and requires considerable carpentry skills: for wedged spikes of strands with a height of 50 mm or more in bowstrings, you need to choose deaf sockets of the dovetail profile. When assembling the frame of the march, the bowstrings are strongly, but evenly and accurately, tapped with a wooden sledgehammer - a snow leopard. The whiskers of the spikes of the cords are then tightly wedged in the dovetails. Bowstrings for assembly on strands with steel wedges need oak, and strands (from 60x60 mm) - from high-quality straight-grain pine. Not from larch, it is fragile!

Of great importance for the accuracy of the assembly of stairs in bowstrings is the accuracy of their marking under the steps. The main ways of installing (joining) steps in bowstrings are given in Fig.:

The steps of outdoor stairs in bowstrings should be placed on backing bars or surfs. This, firstly, reduces the possibility of moisture accumulation in the grooves for treads / risers. Secondly, the march frame can be assembled and, if necessary, trimmed before installing the steps. Both make the manufacture of a wooden staircase in bowstrings feasible for beginners.

The scheme for assembling the stairs in bowstrings "for dummies" is given on the next. rice. In this way, a green novice carpenter can even make beveled risers (shown in pale tone). On the right in fig. - ways of fastening steps to it. Here it should be added to the above that it is not necessary to put treads on steel corners in the outer staircase - rust will flow.

metal porch

A metal porch is the second most popular after a wooden one. With their own hands, a steel porch is most often made for giving: here the appearance, as they say, does not beat very much, but the entire structure can be welded in advance in production conditions, brought and delivered ready. A steel porch without wrought iron decorations will cost less than a wooden one, not to mention a concrete one.

Due to their elasticity, metal structures are very little susceptible to damage by soil movements. But she is able to transfer great efforts to the construction of the building. Therefore, on soils of medium and stronger than average heaving, the steel porch must be made floating, like a concrete monolith (see below). The foundation under it can be laid slab lightweight, with a slab 100 mm thick flush with the ground surface and single-level reinforcement. On weak and non-rocky soils, a steel porch can be made cantilevered (see below) with supports from a pair of bullock blocks under the heel.

The steel porch is usually assembled on stringers as shown in fig. Channels for stringers and platform frame take 60 mm; corner for frames of steps - equal-shelf 40 mm. Logs under the platform flooring are made from the same corners welded into a T-shaped profile (half-tee). Steel pipes from 100 mm go to the support pillars.

This design is optimal for production in industrial conditions, incl. piece and small-scale handicraft. The fact is that for accurate welding of step frames, volumetric conductors are needed. When welding outdoors on the weight, the steps of a novice welder will most likely come out skewed. Or, to assemble such a ladder on the spot, you need some experience, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of assembling a metal staircase

A beginner can get out of the situation in several ways. The first one is shown in pos. and the figure above: instead of voluminous frames of steps on the plaza (a flat, durable fireproof platform), flat fillies are boiled under the steps. Tread them - either wooden hanging, or any (for example, stone) laid in flat frames from the same corner. In either case, the tread or frame for it is attached to the filly with screws, which allows you to align the steps. Bad in this method is its high labor intensity and increased consumption of material. Wooden treads will also not receive proper support, so you need to take thick ones from them.

The second method is shown on the left side of the footprint. rice. Here, the labor intensity and material consumption are less, because. supports from pipes after welding are cut into the horizon by a grinder according to the level and cord-mooring. According to this scheme, there is a temptation to reduce the volume of earthwork and concrete work by making a ladder on one stringer, on the right in Fig. However, it requires a cutting machine: the slightest distortion of the filly supports from the channel - and the steps went for a walk. You can make a cutting machine yourself by fixing the grinder on a swinging arm, the hinge of which is installed in a solid frame, but whether it is worth doing it is a master's business.

Finally, the simplest solution is a porch for OSB or plywood sheathing, and decorative trim along it, on a straight frame. Its device is clear from the next. rice. All parts of the frame are flat, cooked on the plaza. The foundation for such a porch is not needed at all, it hangs on the foundation of the building, this is the so-called. cantilever porch (see also below). It rests on the blind area of the house with adjustable screw legs, so please note: the frame is fixed to the foundation of the building only at the top, as shown in the figure! Fasteners - bolts from M8x130 with steel collet anchors. The pitch of the attachment points is up to 600 mm. Since the porch is always wider, intermediate posts are needed in the rear frame frame. Which will not interfere with other frames with a height of more than 400 mm.

concrete porch

A concrete porch is actually a little better than a brick porch: laborious, and the work is hard, material-intensive. Requires a reliable stable foundation for itself, it interfaces very poorly with the building. True, it will stand on a separate foundation no less than the house itself. Aesthetically, a concrete porch justifies itself only with a house of a purely utilitarian design (on the left in the figure); technically well combined with a patio porch (terrace, veranda, on the right in the figure), but a terraced porch must be built along with the house.

Also, at the same time with the building, a cantilever (hanging) and cantilever-supporting porch is being built, pos. III and IV on the next. rice. Since we are talking about an attached porch here, we will confine ourselves to the observation that the cavity under the concrete porch (wing liner) must be well ventilated, otherwise it will turn into a hotbed of dampness and a nest of all obscene living creatures.

Only a floating concrete porch is attached to the existing house, pos. I and II. A more detailed diagram of its device is shown at the bottom right in Fig. Instead of rigid mineral wool, a deformation seam (width - 10-12 mm) can, and even better, be laid with basalt cardboard. A piece of mineral wool or a sheet of basalt cardboard is taken out on the sides outside the porch monolith and temporarily attached to the foundation of the building with self-tapping screws in dowels through wooden slats. It is impossible to fix the filling of the seam to the foundation of the house in the area where the porch adjoins it!

A typical, one might say, defect of a floating concrete porch is a chronically occurring crack between it and the foundation of the building. It is not dangerous, but it flaunts in plain sight, like a red nose and bags under the eyes of an alcoholic, and generally without cracks is better. Therefore, it is better to attach a concrete porch to the house on a separate foundation, slab or pile-slab, depending on local conditions (see the figure with foundation diagrams).

About the foundations for a concrete porch in RuNet, what miracles you read! It is advised, say, to do it on undercut, pressed or driven piles. And the house is nearby, close, what, is it standing on a monolithic Precambrian rock? Pile work will not affect the reliability of its foundation in any way? If the concrete porch is made on a pile-slab foundation, the following should be borne in mind:

Piling holes are drilled manually with a garden drill.
Piles are reinforced and poured into ruberoid clips using a standard method.
Piles are located symmetrically along the diagonals of the foundation slab with an indent of 250-350 mm from the corners.
If any of the sides of the projection of the porch is more than 1.8 m, the piles are laid in an envelope (item 1 in the figure below).
The belts (levels) of the reinforcing grid of the slab are fastened with a knitting wire to the vertical branches of the reinforcement of the piles immediately after the concrete has set in them. The distance from the lower reinforcement belt to the top of the bedding is 40-80 mm.
To speed up the work, a sand and gravel cushion under the slab can be poured through the reinforcement grid of the slab. The remnants of the backfill from the armature are swept away.
A slab with a thickness of up to 200 mm is poured in one layer, and a larger thickness - in layers of 15 cm.
A freshly poured layer of concrete is pierced with a sharpened steel bar approximately in the middle of each grid cell to release air.
The next layer of concrete mortar is poured as soon as the previous one begins to set. With this method of filling, the so-called. hydraulic compaction of concrete.

Note: it is possible to reinforce the foundation of a concrete porch with both steel and fiberglass (composite) reinforcement.

The porch is poured when the concrete slab reaches approx. 15% durability. Practically - on the 2nd - 3rd day after setting the concrete of the foundation slab. There is no need to reinforce the concrete porch with multi-level powerful reinforcement (item 2 in the figure); enough for each step of one reinforcing belt made of steel mesh from 40x40x3 to 60x60x5, pos. 3.

The formwork boards must be soaked in advance with mineral oil (by mining, for example), so that they can be removed more easily later. If the concrete porch does not go under the finish, it is advisable to carefully sand the formwork from the inside, and seal the seams between the boards with wood putty. So the outer surfaces of the porch will be smooth.

Pros, working on order / for hire, pour the porch in one step, time is precious to them. Working for yourself, the porch can be poured in stages, pos. A-E in fig. In addition to saving material, the porch will turn out to be insulated and less prone to displacement by soil movements. Each successive step is poured as soon as the concrete of the previous one has set. The concreting of the steps of the porch is carried out in the next. order:

The leveled and compacted gravel or expanded clay backfill is poured with a cement-sand 1:3 mortar of increased fluidity, with a water-cement ratio (VC) of 0.72, until all the pebbles or granules are hidden. That is, the solution should be the density of liquid sour cream;
As soon as the initial pour begins to set, pour the usual concrete mortar (cement: crushed stone: sand 1: 5: 3) of normal consistency with a layer of 4-6 cm;
just grabbed the first layer of concrete pouring, lay the reinforcement and pour the step to the top of the formwork section. If wooden or stone treads will be installed on concrete, screw anchors are walled up for them at this step;
The filled step is deaerated (de-aired) as described above;
Immediately after pouring the next step, the previous one is ironed: sprinkled with dry cement M400 and carefully rubbed with a wooden block (item 4 in the figure)

Note: scheme according to pos. A-E is for a floating porch. The pouring of the porch on the foundation by this method differs only in the absence of the primary pouring of the first stage with a cement-sand mortar.

The back wall of the porch (pos. E) is poured in layers of 15 cm with de-airing and hydro-sealing. The order of its filling is the same as for the steps. Wooden or stone treads are placed on propylene spacers with steel washers, pos. 5.

Canopy and canopy

A porch with is definitely better than an open one. Not only in terms of convenience, but also the safety of the building: the front door opening is the place from where most often the violation of the building structure begins under the influence of weather conditions. The roof of an attached porch can be a canopy on columns or a hanging canopy attached to the wall of the building.

The columns of the canopy of the attached porch must be concreted separately from the foundation of the porch, and even more so from the floating porch. The removal of the bases of the columns forward and to the side from the outer corners of the porch or its foundation - from 0.5 m; better - 1 m or more. The reason is the same difference in the shrinkage of the porch and the house. If the bases of the columns are not rigidly connected to the porch, frost heave forces will press the canopy against the wall. On the contrary - to tear it off the wall.

Note: the lower parts (roots) of wooden columns must be treated with bitumen at least 400 mm above the ground. The reason is the same for which it is possible to build from bricks only on the basement. Wrapping the roots of wooden columns with roofing material, in addition to impregnation, will not hurt, but keep in mind that it will not protect the aerial part of the root of the column! In the light, roofing material is destroyed over time by solar ultraviolet (UV).

The hanging visor does not fundamentally create shrinkage matching problems. It cannot be mounted only on frame and prefabricated panel walls; in all other cases, a hanging canopy is technically preferable to a canopy on columns. Schemes of porch visors welded from a 40-mm corner frame are given at the top in the figure, and drawings of a wooden porch visor are also below. All these canopies, except for arched and gable ones, must be equipped with a drainage gutter with an outflow to the side (s). The overall width of a wooden canopy made of timber 75x75 can be increased up to 2.5 m; for this resp. increase the size marked with an asterisk.

Fastening of peaks to a stone or concrete wall - with 8x130 self-tapping screws in propylene dowels or M8x100 bolts in collet anchors. To a wooden wall - self-tapping screws for wood M8x120. Canopy roof decking - any suitable (soft, steel or ceramic tiles, polycarbonate, slate, etc.); under any roof, except for polycarbonate, a crate is required. It is necessary to cover the visors with polycarbonate, observing the rules for working with this material: turn it outward with the UV-resistant side, structure channels along the slope, close the edge with a filter tape, fasten it to the frame using thermal washers, etc.

About porch glazing

The glazed porch is cool and fashionable. In many cases, it is also convenient. But - glazing without fear is only possible on a porch built together with the house on a common foundation with it. As for the porches attached to the house, no technical guarantee for the safety of their glazing for more than one season is possible in principle.

Finally: how to search for information

You may need exact working drawings of some of the typical porches. For example, you were self-built according to a standard project, but so far without a porch. Unfortunately, there is no way to include at least part of the technical documentation even for one project in a review article, but the most popular of the standard projects of individual residential buildings are available on the Internet in free distribution.

In order not to “google” in vain for a long and painful time, but to go straight to the porch, in the search bar of the browser you need to type “Typical project 18…” or “Typical design solutions 8…”. A number of preliminary results will pop up for you according to documents available for free download like “Typical project 186-214-9.87” (this is a precast concrete porch from ready-made monolithic parts) or, say, “Typical design solutions 820-1-088.88” (drawings of a metal porch ), or “Standard project 189-000-362.85” (these are drawings of a wooden porch), etc. Further - it is clear. We look at what suits - we download, we determine the materials and costs, we build.

By definition, a porch is an external extension to a building through which people enter and exit a dwelling. A modern cottage or a house without a porch will look like unfinished buildings.

The purpose of the porch is not only aesthetic, it also performs practical functions. In winter, it protects the entrance to the house from drifting and performs additional thermal insulation functions. There are three main types - simplified, attached and built-in.

The design of the porch can be more original. For example, in recent years, you can often see a patio porch, the fashion for which came to us from Western Europe.

Such a porch is a kind of intermediate option between a classic platform and an open terrace. The video gives the most complete picture of how to build a porch with your own hands (see).

This novelty has become popular due to its undeniable advantages - simplicity of design and functionality. Building a porch of this design will not be a problem. If you have the necessary tools and materials at hand, you can start building.

Drawing of a wooden porch

Even a simple (typical) drawing, drawn by yourself, will help to avoid difficulties in its construction.

The drawing of the porch must contain the data:

porch appearance. It makes it possible to visualize the final view of the structure;
porch width - should be one and a half times wider than the doorway (you can calculate how wide the porch should be in this way: multiply 1.5 by the width of the door, this will be the minimum allowable width). This width will allow you to open the door while on the porch platform;
the width of the stairs to the porch (flight of stairs) - must be at least 700 mm. Otherwise, there will be difficulties in moving people and objects along the steps;
the location of the platform (flooring) of the porch. The floor of the porch should be 30-50 mm below the threshold (doorway). The porch platform lowered down will prevent the doors from blocking due to snow or raising the porch structure;
the angle of the porch;

Note. Professionals advise making the slope of the porch and steps 2-3 ° to avoid water accumulation. An alternative would be to install deck boards with a gap of 2-3 mm.

foundation. Types, depth of laying, characteristics of the soil under it;
the number and size of steps of the porch. The standard recommends adhering to the following dimensions of steps: height - 170-180 mm, step depth (tread) - 300-350 mm. It is desirable that the number of steps be odd. Such dimensions will make the movement on the steps comfortable;
the presence and place of installation of the fence (balusters and railings).

Note. In construction practice, there are no norms and rules governing the parameters of the porch. The recommendations concern only the parameters of the steps.

A drawing of a wooden porch, as a good example:

Scheme of a wooden porch

It is convenient to work when the scheme of the wooden porch is made on a large sheet of paper and is always in front of your eyes.

A good alternative would be a life-size cardboard template. A paper template is indispensable in the manufacture of a flight of stairs on a bowstring.

How to build a structure in stages

Materials needed for building

So, we build with our own hands.

For this you will need:

Pine lumber or pine log for the manufacture of floor beams and rafters (pine lumber 100 x 200 mm)
Boards for steps and landings, railings and side posts
Several boards for a canopy, (thickness 50 × 150 mm or 50 × 200 mm).

Foundation device

Like any other capital building, the porch needs a foundation. For the porch, the best option is a pile foundation. Its advantages are simplicity and low cost. In addition, you can build such a foundation with your own hands in a short time, without resorting to the help of specialists.

The second stage of work begins with a bowstring. In the case of making a patio porch, it is also necessary to additionally build two medium stringers.

The bowstring can be of two types - the choice is up to the owner of the house. A simpler and more affordable option is a bowstring with cut ledges. A slightly more complex option is a bowstring with embedded steps.

In order to prepare a bowstring, you will need the following tools and materials:

Thick board of the right size
Pattern in the form of a triangle

The procedure and rules for the manufacture of steps

So:

Tip: In order to better understand how to build a porch with your own hands, video tutorials will clearly show you the entire installation process. To do this, just go to the Internet and ask the search engine the appropriate question.

Installation of the platform (wooden floor of the porch)

This stage of building a wooden porch is simple, and can be performed even by a beginner who does not have experience in such work. Over time, the boards from which the flooring is made begin to dry out.

As a result, gaps are formed between the boards, which can be quite wide. Such flooring becomes unaesthetic and unsafe.

To avoid the appearance of large gaps as a result of the drying of the wood, it is necessary to lay the floor boards as close to each other as possible.

When the flooring is almost ready, and the stringers and bowstrings are securely fastened to the lags, the next step comes - the installation of risers and treads. The riser and treads are connected in the same way “thorn in the groove”, the bowstring from the risers are attached to each other in the same way.

The opinion that the elements can be fastened together with the help of self-tapping screws and nails alone is erroneous. Such a design will not have sufficient strength.

The construction of the porch with your own hands is over - everything is ready. Compliance with building codes and regulations ensures that the porch will be reliable and durable. However, it must be taken into account. What matters is not only the quality of joinery and carpentry.

The durability of any wooden building, including the porch, largely depends on how well the wood was prepared and processed. Before starting work, it is advisable to make sure that the wood is properly dried. And in order to prevent rotting and pest infestation, wood must be treated with appropriate chemical compounds.

How to build a porch with your own hands: video.

Mistakes in the manufacture of a wooden porch

The most common mistakes when building a porch are:

The device of the attached staircase is too close to. In winter, the ground will freeze, and the ladder can rise several centimeters. As a result, the door will open with great difficulty or become jammed.
Another common mistake is the construction of a porch on an insufficiently deep foundation. It should also be borne in mind that if waterproofing is not done, moisture will sooner or later lead to swelling and damage to the wood.

Tip: The problems listed above can be avoided. To do this, you can make a threshold in the doorway. Also, to get rid of such difficulties, the installation of a ladder 15 centimeters below the level of the doorway.

But it must be taken into account that in both cases a step is formed, which may be unsafe. You can trip over it, so this design also has a drawback.

After the wooden porch is almost ready, you can think about decorative elements. If the porch has three steps or more, it is advisable to install a railing.

Optionally, you can make a canopy of wood or other materials (see), as well as other details to decorate the product and give it the appearance of a finished architectural element.

It's no secret that building a porch in a country house is not an easy task, given that it must fit into the overall look of the building, as well as be truly functional.

In most cases, it is the originally designed porch that can become an unusual business card for the house.

There are a huge number of different options for the final stage in building a house. Everything primarily depends on how you see a truly beautiful porch for yourself and what budget you have.

At the same time, it is worth noting that if you are interested in how to make a porch with your own hands, then it is quite simple and all you need to do is read this article and perhaps use some of the advice of builders.

What is a porch?

In fact, a constructive porch built in a private house is the simplest open area with a staircase that is made right in front of the entrance to the building. In this case, the porch can be of the most diverse form, with or without an additional canopy.

If we talk about the design itself, which can be chosen for the porch and which determines the design for the most part, then they can be divided into three main types: simple, attached or built-in.

The porch of the latter type is almost always designed at the stage of building a house.

The most popular simple type of porch is the platform, which has additional steps and a canopy above them.

During the construction of this type of porch, the most difficult thing is pouring the necessary foundation, which will be needed anyway, even if it is a lightweight structure and you planned to make a wooden porch yourself.

The attached porch is very similar in appearance to the beautiful built-in porch, but it is very often rebuilt and modified in various ways.

Foundation - foundation

An important point that you should definitely pay attention to when laying the foundation is that its depth during construction work must necessarily coincide with the depth of laying the foundation itself for the entire building. Otherwise, after the settlement of the soil, it is quite possible that deformation will occur completely at the entire structure of the porch.

If, after the settlement of the soil, the structure is shifted towards the house, then the destruction will begin from the foundation of the porch. In this case, cosmetic repairs will not be possible and you will have to build a porch from the very beginning.

During the construction of the foundation, special attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the foundation being built.

Varieties of the porch for the future home

First of all, before starting the construction of the porch, it is imperative to decide which material you like best. Most often it is either concrete, or expensive metal, or stone, classic brick, affordable wood.

Having decided to make a porch to the house out of wood, many simply hope that this is the easiest and most affordable option, in fact, they are not even aware of the large number of nuances.

It is a photo of a porch made of wood that can be easily found in various magazines more than others. This is due to the fact that wood is considered by many to be a traditional material.

All you need to build such a porch is minimal building skills, a circular saw, and a construction square.

Note!

If possible, it is best to use either larch or any coniferous species as a material. They are distinguished by good strength indicators, and are also quite easy to independently process.

After a specially made impregnation, the material will definitely not be inferior, for example, to material from any other hard rock.

Above the porch, you should definitely take care of the visor. This will not only protect the steps of the stairs and its platforms from various precipitations, but also allow you to decorate the wooden porch in an interesting way in a short time without serious financial investments.

Photos of a wide variety of canopies can also be found on the Internet and magazines dedicated to the construction of various country houses.