Wooden mini planers with their own hands. Do-it-yourself jointing machine based on an electric planer

For a lot of people, working with wood is a pleasure. It's nice to make a table for the veranda yourself or make a bench for the garden. You should know that this is a lot of physical labor. However, today the work can be much simplified by using electric planers. Everyone, even a beginner, can work with such a tool.

This device has been around for a long time. Externally, modern electric planers resemble old designs, but in terms of performance they are several times superior to mechanical designs.

With the help of an electric planer, you can process wood, reduce the thickness of wood blanks, plan, adjust, process boards on a bed, bevel edges. With this device, it is not possible to process large surfaces, but in the case of small volumes, it makes sense to use such a tool.

The planer is more intended for leveling the surface of wood, which has previously been roughly processed. After leveling the base with this tool, all irregularities and defects will disappear from the product, as a result of which it will become extremely smooth. Finishing wood in most cases is done with a grinding planer. With this tool, you can also make a groove or chamfer in the part.

How to make a planer with your own hands?

Figure 1. Scheme of planer elements.

In order to work with concave or convex bases, humpbacks-moulders were invented, with the help of which they produce textured planing of wood blanks. These elements have a special form. They have no special advantages over modern planers. In addition, working with these devices is quite difficult. To produce high-quality processing of parts, you will need to have some experience and special skills.

Today, it is very difficult to find kalevka in construction stores, since almost all stores sell electronic equipment. That is why it is much easier to make a planer yourself.

Elements that you will need in order to make your own planer:

1. iron element.
2. Chip breaker.
3. Wood preparation.
4. Simple pencil.
5. Wedge.
6. Band-saw.
7. Plywood sheet.
8. Chisel.
9. File.
10. adhesive mixture.
11. Drilling device.
12. Clamps.
13. Bar with a section of 12x12 mm.
14. Planer.
15. Micro skin.

A self-made planer with docking points for all elements can be seen in fig. one.

The iron element will determine the dimensions of the tool body, so the first step is to make an iron element and a chip breaker. For a small planer, you can use an iron element from an old tool, and for a planer with oval-shaped elements, ready-made “pieces of iron” that can be purchased at a hardware store. These fixtures are initially filled with a radius, they can be purchased complete with suitable chip breakers.

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How to select and process a workpiece?

In most cases, the planer is made from the most common types of wood - birch, maple, etc. The workpiece must be made 30-50 mm larger than the final dimensions of the tool being manufactured. The width can be determined by the following formula: the dimensions of the “piece of iron” + 3 mm + 20 mm for the cheeks + an additional 6 mm for processing on the machine. If a small planer is made, then the cheeks can be approximately 6 mm thick.

The marking of the tool must be done in such a way that the rings are perpendicular to the sole, and the fiber runs down from the front to the back. So that after sawing all the elements can be connected in the correct order, on the front of the block you will need to draw a triangle with the top up.

First of all, you will need to make 2 elements of the middle section, between which, with the help of a wedge, you will need to fix the “piece of iron” and the chipbreaker. After that, 2 cheeks are attached.

The body of the tool is assembled from a blank, which is sawn into 2 parts. Cheeks are sawn out with a band saw. Next, the middle section is sawn into several parts. At the same time, it will be necessary to form the bed of the iron element and the opening of the chipbreaker. The wedge can be sawn from the unused trim. Upon completion of the assembly, the body and sole must be machined to shape. At the end, the planer is adjusted.

The middle element should be 4 mm wider than the piece of iron. In addition, there should be an allowance of another 4 mm for processing the middle structural element to the shape of a rectangle. You can mark the cheeks using the same saw. A bed of “piece of iron” is placed at an angle of 45 ° so that chips can easily exit. At an angle of 60 ° there is a notch of the front opening. The middle element is sawn into the front part, which is called the toe, and the back part, which is commonly called the heel.

Next, you will need to make an ordinary template from plywood sheets, with which a groove for the screw head is selected, which ends at a distance of approximately 20 mm from the bottom of the case. The groove can be selected with a chisel.

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Pre-assembly of the structure

Before assembling the planer, the mouth of the middle element must be lightly filed using a “piece of iron” shape. Further, the rear part of this section is installed on the edge, the iron element is put in place, after which the front part is moved towards it. At the end, you need to check the correctness of the fit.

Further, the structure is moved apart so that a gap of 3 mm is formed between the parts of the middle structural element for an iron element 4.5 mm thick, which forms the mouth of the tool. After that, all parts of the planer will need to be aligned and compressed. Through the cheeks in the middle section on the 2 sides, you will need to drill holes in order to install the dowels and glue them.

In most cases, planers are rectangular in shape; you should not waste time on ennobling the structure. In the side walls, you should choose small niches for the fingers. To make it convenient to grip the tool, you need to chamfer the corners.

When the planer has its final shape, the bevels will need to be sawn off. Up to this point, they will be able to ensure the exact exhibition of all elements, so that it is possible to fit the transverse rod. So that during the process of gluing the elements of the tool, the dowels do not interfere, they must be sawn off flush with the cheeks.

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Completion of the construction

On the extreme parts of the rod, you will need to install round spikes that will go into the holes in the cheeks. Due to these spikes, the structure will be able to rotate at an angle to the wedge. In order to be able to make holes for the rod on the top of the planer, an additional line must be drawn at right angles to the side parts. Next, 1 cheek is removed from the assembly, and with the iron element and chip breaker installed, the line is transferred to another cheek. The second cheek is removed from the middle part and at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom of the structure and 12 mm from the top of the chip breaker, the center of the hole for the rod is marked.

To ensure the exact location of the rod hole, you will need to make a hole on the drilling device.

The cheeks are aligned along the drawn lines, compressed with clamps, after which a hole is drilled.

The rod can be made from a bar with a section of 12x12 mm. The length of the rod should be equal to the width of the tool, taking into account the cheeks. The length of the spikes is determined based on the thickness of the cheeks. At each end of the rod, you need to make 4 shoulders. After that, the spikes are rounded with a knife.

To ensure smooth chip exit, the upper ribs of the middle core element will need to be rounded off. After manufacturing the rod, you will need to check its fit to the tool. The rod must rotate freely.

For many, working with wood brings great pleasure. It's nice to make a table for the veranda with your own hands, assemble a garden bench or change a leaky board. Only the joys of creativity are overshadowed by the routine physical work that electric planes are designed to deal with. Everyone, even a beginner, can work with a manual electric planer.

The purpose of the electric planer

The planer is the oldest woodworking tool after the axe. Any professional treats him with special respect. The painstaking work of the designers and the electricity of the planers made it even more perfect and efficient. Thus, modern electric planers outwardly resemble their mechanical counterparts, however, new designs are several times more productive than manual labor.

The electric planer is intended for processing wood, reducing the thickness of wood products, preliminary planing, fitting, processing boards on a frame, beveling edges and creating an extended recess of various shapes in products (chamfers, quarters, tongues). All this is called by one term - planing. This tool is not suitable for processing a larger area, but with small volumes it makes it easier for the frequent repairer or professional when working with wood.

The main function for a planer is to level a wooden surface that has previously been roughly processed. After leveling the product with a planer, all irregularities and defects disappear from the surface, and it becomes extremely smooth. Finishing wood is usually done with a grinding planer. With an electric planer, you can also make a chamfer or groove in the workpiece.

The design of the electric planer

The design of an electric planer is quite simple. Let's take a closer look at the electric planer circuit and its constituent elements.

Rotating drum

In the body of the electric planer, on the base plate, there is the main working element - a rotating drum, on which the knives are attached. As a rule, in the "knife drum" there are two, less often three or one, knives, which are engaged in cutting the upper surface of the planed wood. The knife shaft is much more technologically advanced than a conventional cutter, and the power of the tool allows you to work without any additional effort.

Knives are made from tungsten, hardened steel or carbide. According to the number of knives that are fixed on the drum, electric planes are "two-legged" and "one-legged". The first type of tool works only with precise alignment, otherwise only one knife will work, the second is simple and productive. Electric planers with a knife, which is fixed obliquely on the drum, are able to make a specific “spiral” cut for high-quality planing of the board.

Over time, knives wear out. There are reusable knives that need to be sharpened or disposable knives that need to be changed. The frequency of these procedures is largely determined by operational loads: the type of wooden surface and the time of their processing.
To remove the knife, slightly loosen the bolts that press the knife holders. They are easily removed from the grooves of the drum. Knives after sharpening are put in place, leveling in height with each other, as in the video about the electric planer.

Straight carbide knives, thanks to the presence of a centering groove, are easily mounted in their place in the holders, which in turn are inserted into the grooves of the drum. Sharpened steel knives need more careful height alignment.

Electric planer sole

The sole of the electric planer is made of cast aluminum and is divided into 2 parts relative to the drum - front and rear. The rear part is fixedly attached, while the height of the front part, which is able to move on the still unfinished wood, can be set using a knob or a button. The position of the front part primarily determines the depth of planing or, in other words, the thickness of the chips.

The sole affects the stability of the electric planer. In any case, this element should not interfere with work and be smooth. The soles, which are produced by some manufacturers, have several V-shaped grooves in their surface, which are needed for chamfering the corners of the workpiece.

Electrical part

The rotating drum is connected to an electric motor by means of a drive belt, which is responsible for the transmission of rotational motion. The drive belt needs to be changed from time to time. But this activity is not at all troublesome, because belts are sold in all tool stores. The old belt can be dismantled independently. To facilitate this operation, the manufacturers made the protective cover removable.

The electric motor has a power of 580 - 900 W, its rotation speed reaches 1000 rpm. The quality of the treated surface depends largely on the engine power. The electric planer device has a switch with a lock and a cord with a plug, as well as various electronic components: changing or stabilizing speed, soft start, drum balancing, overload protection, and even an electronic brake.

Tool handles

Two handles are used to move along the working surface of the electric planer. The back of them allows you to push the tool, it has a start / stop trigger with a double security system. With the help of the front additional handle, they only direct the movement of the electric planer, the same handle allows you to work “on a grand scale”. If you press hard on the front handle, then at the end of the processed material you can remove a large layer of wood.

Since the adjustment knob is sometimes used as a second knob, it is often made with internal notches so that it can be raised when switching, otherwise it is possible to knock down an inadvertently set chip thickness during operation. A handle without such notches is able to adjust this parameter on the go, but this does not allow you to get rid of unwanted switching.

The switching step is usually 0.1 millimeters, but each electric planer has its own differences. The cutting depth can be set by turning the knob. At the same time, the front part of the sole drops or rises, opening the drum with knives less or more.

Knife protection

Two types of protective devices protect the work surface and fingers from below and to the side from contact with the knives. At the bottom of the sole there is a leg, as in the photo of an electric planer, which is automatically ejected, slightly lifting the back of the sole. The movable safety leg will recline when the electric planer is not working and protect the workpiece from contact with the knives. Also, the planer can be laid on its side, with the drive belt cover down.

The protective plate on the side of the spring closes the edge of the knife drum and rises as much as the planer will go deep into the wood when choosing a quarter. The side edge of the knife drum, which allows you to select a quarter, is hidden under the turning plate.

Chip ejection

The direct chip ejection procedure eliminates clogging of the electric planer and occurs in three ways. In the first case, technical excesses are not required, the chips will scatter throughout the room, but the work surface will not clog.

The possibility of directing the ejection chute in some models facilitates the removal of chips, this is the second option for ejecting chips. The bag holds a large amount of chips, although it is not too bulky. If you need a bag, you should ask if there is one in the kit and if it is possible to buy it in addition.

A good solution to the problem is to connect with a corrugated hose to a vacuum cleaner, but it will not completely rid you of debris. Depending on the location of the operating electric planer, it is convenient to direct the ejection of chips in a certain direction.

To do this, you just need to switch the key to the desired position. The method is simple, but inconvenient in some cases, because the hose and cord limit the maneuverability of the structure.

Electric planer accessories

There are many different accessories for the tool, regardless of the price of electric planers. For example, wavy knives made of hardened steel of different overall dimensions, which are used for roughing, as well as equipment that allows you to install a planer motionless and turn it into a planer and an automatic jointer at the same time.

The side stop, together with the depth gauge, is able to accurately set the width and thickness of the chip being removed. To cut a corner, it is customary for some limiters to tilt from 0 to 45 degrees. When planing a thin edge, the side stop will help to give the planer the necessary balance. Of all the accessories described above, of all possible ones, they must be included in the kit.

Specifications

The power of the electric planer is 0.4 - 2 kW. For home use and do-it-yourself repairs, an electric planer is suitable, which has a power of 500 - 900 watts. For simple and short-term work, a household-class electric planer or a home-made low-power electric planer is suitable. And for real masters, you only need a professional powerful tool.

The rotation speed of the cutter can affect the surface finish and is 10 - 18 thousand revolutions per minute. In some models, the rotation speed can be changed. It is also able to be maintained at a constant level by electronics, which is very convenient when working with hardwoods.

The planing width is 82 millimeters or more. This figure matters when you spend most of your time working on boards. For many companies, the planing width of wood usually does not exceed 82 mm, but there are companies on the market, for example, Interskol, which have increased the planing width to about 102 millimeters.

You can set the depth of planing within 0 - 4 millimeters. It is smooth and step by step. The depth of the edge sampling comes from 0 to 25 millimeters, respectively.

Making an electric planer with your own hands

The electric planer that you will be making is designed to process wood that is up to 120 millimeters wide and up to 1.2 millimeters deep in one pass. The workpiece will rest on a plate with a hole for the knife shaft. The guide square is attached to the base plate with 2 screws M8, which have plastic heads, it prevents the lateral displacement of the product during processing.

To the base plate are attached from below with M6 screws that have countersunk heads, the bearing bearings of the knife rotating shaft. It is customary to install a V-belt pulley outside the base plate at the end of the knife shaft. The plate is fixed with 10 screws to the body of the electric planer, which is welded from a steel corner measuring 20 by 20 by 3 millimeters.

The protective casing is connected to the body with three M6 screws with cylindrical heads above the V-belt transmission through spring washers. The electric motor of the tool is placed inside the body and connected to it by means of 2 supports in the form of steel strips. They have 2 holes with a diameter of approximately 6.5 mm, which are designed for mounting on the body of the electric planer with their own hands, as well as 2 grooves each for installing and adjusting the position of the electric motor to tension the belt.

The electric motor of the device is controlled from the remote control located on the front of the case. Under the U-shaped bracket inside the remote control there are 2 phase-shifting capacitors, which are fixed in parallel and have a capacity of 4 microfarads. The switch is mounted outside on the console. From direct hit of dust and shavings the motor is protected by a casing.

First of all, make a base plate. The most time-consuming operation is the execution of a figured slot in the plate, which is intended for the exit of knives. To do this, use an electric drill with a cutting wheel of small diameter or drill along the contour of the hole, and then file the slot. After drilling the mounting holes in the base plate, threaded holes are made along them in 4 upper corners of the electric planer body.

Before welding, the upper corners are attached to the base plate with 10 screws, the remaining corners of the body are attached to them by welding. Then the base plate is removed, and the body is finally welded along the contour, cleaning the welds. Particularly carefully cleaned along the plane in which the housing is adjacent to the base plate. At the same time, gaps are unacceptable, because they provoke vibration during the operation of the electric planer. Consider this before you make an electric planer with your own hands.

Make sure after assembly that the cutter shaft will rotate counter-clockwise - in the direction of feed, as judged from the console. This feature is of great importance, because the technique of fastening the V-belt pulley to the knife shaft does not allow it to move in the opposite direction. Fasten the planer body without gaps with 4 M6 screws before starting work.

The knife shaft for cutting grooves is equipped with 2 knives that have a width of 120 millimeters, or one knife. On the opposite side of the shaft, in the latter case, a counterweight is installed to eliminate imbalance and vibration. Each knife is fixed with pressure plates and 3 M8 screws, which are screwed into the through threaded holes of the rotating knife shaft.

For knives, the most affordable blanks are the worked-out hacksaw blade for metal, which has a thickness of about 3 millimeters. The sharpening angle of the cutting edge of the knives should be within 30 - 40 degrees. With curly sharpening, you can get a relief surface for artistic frames or platbands.

Narrow and thin profile strips that have a width of less than 10 millimeters can be prepared by ripping a wider board. When working with narrow knives (less than 12 millimeters), it is not recommended to process grooves that have a depth of 8 millimeters, due to a lack of tool strength.

Now you know how to make an electric planer, it remains to learn how to properly sharpen knives for it. We'll talk about this in the next article.

Wood processing- one of the most popular types of activities among enthusiastic people around the world.

This material is relatively cheap, easy to polish, and the finished product, coated with varnish, paint or stain, will serve for a dozen years without losing external aesthetics and strength.

Interior items, furniture and much more can be made independently, for this it is not at all necessary to spend money on the purchase of expensive equipment or materials.

Even the fact that plastic, various metal alloys are replacing wood products everywhere does not reduce the interest in woodworking among enthusiasts.

This is both a great hobby and an opportunity to surprise loved ones with unique handmade items.

The advice of experienced woodworkers suggests that it is not necessary to run to hardware stores if you need an additional tool to perform a certain type of work.

Some things you can do with your own hands. For example, such a carpentry tool as a jointer.

What does he represent? Jointers can be classified as planers familiar to us, but with slight changes in appearance, which means they are designed to perform certain tasks.

Increasing the length of the jointer makes it possible to process wide flat surfaces. The planing mechanism in this case is the same as when working with a planer.

Separate decorative or small elements cannot be processed with such equipment, but if it is necessary to achieve a smooth and flat surface of the product, it is indispensable.

Making a hand planer from a planer and long, sanded pieces of wood is a simple task for any person who is more or less experienced in carpentry. Therefore, it is not worth spending large sums on its acquisition.

Having devoted several evenings to the manufacture of such a tool, you will replenish your arsenal with quite practical and necessary equipment for woodworking.

Jointer from an electric planer do it yourself: how to do?

For those who have turned their hobby into something more and are looking to expand their range of tools, we suggest trying to make a jointer yourself. Interesting and useful at the same time.

The option of manufacturing woodworking equipment presented by us, subject to the technology, allows us to obtain a tool with high accuracy.

To do this, we will use boards or plywood sheets already processed in advance with the help of a jointer and thicknesser.

Jointer from an electric planer: how to build equipment yourself

In order to make a jointer with your own hands, you will need a wooden box, firmly hammered together, three sheets of plywood of different thicknesses (for which we will explain along the way so as not to confuse), an electric planer, bolts and nuts for fastening. Let's start with the box.

You can take a ready-made box without a bottom, but it's better to do it yourself. The fact is that the box should be an elongated rectangular shape so that there is where to swing when jointing.

We cover the knocked-up box with a sheet of plywood, having previously cut a hole in it, and place the planer in the box, with the knives up, or with the sole, which is actually the same thing.

If the planer is Interskolovsky, then it has a special device for attaching it to the table upside down with knives, these elements are called fixtures.

On top of the base sheet of plywood with the planer already attached, we put two more sheets.

What is special: one of the sheets will be 2 mm thicker. This will be the receiving sheet, that is, the one on which the wooden beam leaves after jointing (we assume that 2 mm will be the layer that will be hewn with a jointer).

The second sheet is respectively 2 mm thinner. This will be the feed layer, the one from which the wooden beam is fed to the planer blade.

The sole of the planer should be raised above the main plywood sheet in such a way that the sole and the receiving layer make up the same plane, are on the same level, and the feed plywood is 2 mm higher.

The jointer must be firmly screwed with bolts and nuts so that, if necessary, the fastening can be adjusted.

Jointer from an electric planer: instructions for making

Method 1. Vertical placement of the working surface of an electric planer

Turning an electric planer into a jointer does not take much effort and time. You don't need materials either. Remains of wood are suitable, which can be attached to the common good. The first option for using an electric planer as a jointer provides for a vertical arrangement of the working surface and the cutting knife.

This placement allows you to process both narrow and wide workpieces. In this case, the workpiece moves freely on the surface of the table.

The idea of ​​​​the fixture is quite simple, but the caveat is that it is not suitable for use on any table, for its use you need a carpentry workbench of a special design with the possibility of external side mounting.

With it, it is very easy to install an electric planer in a vertical position. It should be noted that the device is made of plywood 12 mm thick, for the DeWalt 680 OS electric planer. If you have equipment of a different model, then the device adapts to the design features of the existing planer.

Installation of equipment includes the following operations:

• we insert the mounting bolts into the T-shaped profile and do not clamp them, but only slightly fasten them;

• remove the pressure plate and install the planer;

• we put the pressure plate in place, but do not tighten it, but only lightly bait it;

we expose the working surface of the planer strictly perpendicular to the countertop using a measuring tool;

the angle must be 90º. You can get the angle value using the M8 adjusting screw connection. The nut is installed in the plywood plane, and the screw passing through it rests against the handle of the electric planer, thereby changing the angle between the sole and the table surface. On the handle of the tool, it is advisable to install a metal plate on the double-sided tape in the place where the screw will be pressed. After setting the required size, the screw must be tightened with a lock nut;

we remove the standard side stop from the planer, and in its place we put a protective cover made by ourselves. As a protective cover rod, it is best to use a Ø8 stud with a 30 mm threaded end. Casing size 150x150 with rounding;

a distinctive feature of this installation is the ability to install knives tangentially, as shown in the photo. Then the cleanliness of processing improves and the workpiece is much easier to feed;

after all the settings are completed, we tighten all the wing nuts and install additional clamps in order to avoid accidental violation of the settings during the planing process.

Pay attention that the cutting tool of the planer does not touch the table surfaces. This point must be taken into account when making the device.

As a clamp, you can use a flat board or level, having previously exposed and clamped them with clamps, and it is even more correct to make a comb, following the example of a milling machine. The comb should be fastened with clamps.

Before fixing it, we set the processing depth. The recommended amount of material removal in one pass is not more than 1 mm.

Now you need to clamp the comb with clamps, which in length should go to the unregulated side of the working surface of the planer.

It is better to orient the sawdust suction downwards. This will prevent clogging of the nozzle. In this position, the processing waste can be collected without connecting the forced suction of chips, it is enough to tie a plastic bag.

Due to the fact that the inclusion of an electric planer is blocked, it is best to turn it on using a remote outlet, but if one is not available, then it is necessary to use a switch, placing it in a convenient place near the working jointer.

Next, we take the workpiece and check the operation of the electric jointer, made by hand. We check the treated surface for cleanliness and perpendicularity of the planes. The new planer based on an electric planer is ready to go.

As noted earlier, vertical jointer installation requires a professional table. If you are constantly engaged in carpentry work, and you have such a table available, then the vertical installation of the planer is for you. But if your carpentry activity is reduced to one-time work from time to time, then you will be more interested in another way of jointer with a horizontal arrangement of the working surface.

Method 2. Horizontal placement of the working surface of the electric planer

Consider the manufacture of a jointer based on an electric plane of the Status PL82SP trademark.

There are two reasons why we chose this tool. Firstly, it is quiet, which is a huge advantage in a small home workshop. Secondly, the delivery set includes brackets for mounting the planer exactly horizontally. We will use them when making a jointer with our own hands.

Let's take a board 85×12 cm. We suggest using a thermal wood, it does not gain moisture, so it does not lead during operation. But this is not important, you can use any material that is at hand. This board will serve as the base of our planer. We drill through holes Ø 6.5 for mounting the planer brackets.

On the reverse side of the board, we drill a hole Ø12 to the depth of the height of the head of the M6 ​​bolt.

We insert the M6 ​​bolts and tighten the nuts.

We fasten the brackets to the bolts and install the planer. The axis of the tool must match the axis of the base.

Since the back of the working surface is not adjustable, let's take it as a base. We set a level on it and measure the height from the top of the base to the work surface along both edges of the bottom board. They must be identical. In our case, this is 18 cm.

We prepare two blanks from the board, which will serve as table extensions. One of them is 27 cm long, the other 35 cm. Width 10 cm.

We also cut out a blank from a 5 cm thick board, the length of which corresponds to the sum of the lengths of the extensions, and the width in total with the height of the extension equals 18 cm.

We cut the blanks to length and cut in the middle at an angle.

We are preparing 4 more blanks. Two of them are 25.5 × 7.5 cm, and two more are 20.5 × 7.5 cm.

Now in these blanks you need to make a groove. To do this, you can use a milling cutter, but if you do not have such equipment, then we do it with a jigsaw and a hand drill. First, we drill holes for the entry and exit of the canvas, and then we cut a groove. Using sandpaper, we clean and adjust the size of 8 mm.

We drill through holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, using a countersink we make a chamfer on the hole.

We connect the blanks strictly in the middle, as shown in the photo, be sure to first secure them with clamps.

We take the counterpart of the workpiece, drill a hole. We insert a furniture bolt with a square bearing and twist the wing nut with a washer. The table lift assembly is ready.

The next operation is gluing the table extension to the lift unit.

We fix the tables to the base with self-tapping screws. When fastening, it is important that the edge of the back overlaps the knife.

We make a parallel stop, fix it shown in the photo. When installing the stop, it is important to maintain an angle between the table surface and the stop of 90 °.

We test the received machine. Such a budget version of the jointer will be a great help in your workshop.

Basic safety rules when working on a jointer.

In view of the fact that the table is equipment of increased danger, we consider it necessary to dwell on the safe rules of its operation.

1. The machine must always be securely fastened. If this is a mobile version, then two clamps are used as fasteners, if the jointer is stationary, it is securely fastened to the table with bolted connections.
2. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of fastening of the knives and, if necessary, tighten them. Do not work with blunt knives, as you have to apply excessive force, and this can lead to injury.
3. A protective cover is required. It cannot be removed. To process workpieces, use all kinds of pushers, exclude work by hand in the zone of rotation of the knives.
4. Excessive vibration, imbalance, beating and extraneous noise of the equipment is not allowed.
5. It is forbidden to work on the machine with gloves.

Jointer + thicknesser from an electric planer: an idea

Sometimes there is a need for a gauge. Turning an electric planer into a thicknesser is quite simple. Of course, if we are not talking about a potential machine, but about some do-it-yourself device to obtain two parallel planes.

To make such a primitive machine, you need to spend a little time with the same amount of material. We divide the process of making a thickness gauge into three stages.

Stage number 1 Preparation of the base.

We take the board, securely fasten it. On it in the middle, in the size of the width of the planer knives, we fasten two slats. The distance between them will be the maximum width of the workpieces. We fasten two planks along the width of the board with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage number 2 Preparation of the tool.

To adapt the electric planer as a working tool of the future thicknesser, it is necessary to remove the front part of the working surface of the planer and replace it with a sheet of plywood or OSB sheet. We fasten two planks along the width of the plywood with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage No. 3 Connection of the structure.

We use 4 slats as legs, which we connect with self-tapping screws to the strips on the tool and the base of the fixture. For convenience, you can use a bolted connection using a furniture bolt with a wing nut. The processing size is set according to the calibrated part.

Such an idea of ​​​​a thicknesser will not satisfy the needs of a carpentry workshop, but in a household with a single production, it has the right to life.

Jointer from an electric planer with his own hands: pros and cons

The main advantage of a jointer made from an electric planer is its price. The materials necessary for the transformation of the tool will always be at hand. The costs will be minimal, unlike the acquisition of a new jointer. In addition, mobility and now the versatility of the unit captivates. Another plus is the high surface finish.

The final processing of wooden products on such equipment is a very interesting, and, most importantly, convenient activity. The disadvantages of the design are that it has a small jointing width and a small length of the working surface.

It is worth considering in advance such important issues related to cleaning the air in the working room and removing sawdust.

For example, since the jointer is homemade, you can come up with something like a bag for collecting sawdust, this will save you from fine wood dust, not completely, but still. The power tool not only speeds up the performance of certain operations, but also increases the amount of debris flying around the corners. The use of a vacuum cleaner will ensure maximum suction of chips from the working area.

Lighting also plays an important role when working with it. A machine with increased danger, therefore it is necessary to ensure sufficient luminous flux. Best of all, such work is carried out outdoors in daylight.

If the season or other conditions do not allow this, arrange your workplace with maximum comfort.

And also you can watch a video of jointers from an electric planer

Tailored for you:

In the current age of innovative technologies in production, hand tools are rarely used, and are not used at all in mass production. However, there have always been, are and will be craftsmen - cabinetmakers, for whom working with wood is not only part of the business, but also a favorite pastime.

For them, making a product with their own hands is always a pleasure. Such specialists have a lot of hand carpentry tools in their workshop.

Introduction

Planer types

A planer is a hand tool for woodworking, which allows you to bring the surface of the product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the whole set of types of this tool, you can not only process the surface, but also make various carpentry crafts.

Planer has a whole arsenal of types:

Flat planing:

• sherhebel;
• jointer;
• semi-joiner;
• bear;
• sander;
• cynubel;
• end face;
• single;
• double.

Shape planing:

• zenzubel;
• federgubel;
• false bed;
• headquarters or headquarters;
• tongue and groove;
• mold;
• grubbel;
• hunchback

Having the whole set of hand tools, if desired, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor in successful work is do-it-yourself sharpening of planer knives, which is an expensive production service.

Of the curly planers, the zenzubel stands out with useful features. It is used for the manufacture of grooves, quarters, stripping and bringing the spikes and cuts to the desired size. The manufacture of this type of instrument will be discussed.

The article outlines an algorithm for how to make a planer with your own hands.

additional information

All of the tools listed above are standardized products. Therefore, in order for them to perform their work correctly and accurately, they must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15987-91. Below are extracts from GOST that define the basic requirements.

materials

The list of required materials from which you should make a manual planer with your own hands:

• ash;
• maple;
• hornbeam;
• white acacia;
• birch (allowed).

The wood must be well dried, without knots, cracks and rot. For gluing parts, you must use waterproof glue.

Requirements for the metal used

Knives are made from the following types of two-layer steel:

• the main layer is made of brand 30, GOST 1050, (U8, U8A, U9, GOST 1435 is allowed);
• cladding layer - from grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС, GOST 5950.

It is allowed to use metal of other grades, but not worse than those given in the standard. Knives must be perfectly sharpened, and have an appropriate sharpening angle.

Tip: in order for the work surface to be of decent quality as a result of the work of the tool, it is advisable to have a device for sharpening the planer with your own hands in the workshop.

Preparation for work

To make a planer with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools.

Equipment and tools

Name	Quantity
Ruler	1
Joiner's goniometer	1
Pencil	1
Reismus	1
Circular saw	1
Electric jigsaw	1
Drill	1
Drill, 10 mm	1
Planer	1
Miter saw	1
Band-saw	1
Vertical drum grinding machine	1
Milling machine	1
Finger cutter, 10 mm	1
Half round cutter	1
Chisel, hammer	1
Metal file	1
Clamps	8

Materials and accessories

Name	Type and dimensions, mm	Quantity
metal knife	according to the drawing	1
Light wood	Ash 270x100x25	1
Wood dark	Oak 200x80x15	1
Glue	Carpentry waterproof	1
Sandpaper	Grain 100, 500X100	1
Sandpaper	Grain 600-800, 500x100	1
Varnish on wood	Colorless, waterproof	50 g

Description of the manufacturing process

The material of the heel, nose and sole of the planer is ash. Cheeks and wedge - oak. The thickness of the planer should be equal to the width of the knife blade, 20 mm.

Then you need to cut a hole for the hand. For this:

1. Using a drill, drill holes of 10 mm for a file;
2. An electric jigsaw makes a cutout for the hand along the marked contour;
3. On a grinding machine, the inner surface of the hole is processed.

If the workshop has mastered such an operation as sharpening a planer with your own hands, then the sharpening angle of the blade should be 45 degrees so that the protruding cutting edge of the knife is parallel to the plane of the sole.

To do this, the oak blank is cut into two halves, the surface and ribs are cleaned with a planer.

Similarly, a cutout is made on the second cheek. On both cheeks, with the help of a trimmer, a hacksaw and a chisel, a hole for the knife is cut out.

At the next stage, you need to glue all the parts into a single structure with your own hands. First, the nose and heel are glued to one cheek. To do this, carefully smearing the parts with glue, apply and press with clamps. After drying, glue the second cheek on the opposite side.

After the glue dries, the workpiece is finally cut along the contour on the band saw and the outer and inner edges are manually processed on the grinding drum. With a semicircular cutter on a milling machine, all the sharp edges of the planer blank are processed on both sides.

In conclusion, it is required to carefully grind the entire planer blank by hand. Of particular importance is the quality of the sole, which is the working part of the tool. The purity of the workpiece depends on its condition.

The processing of the flat sides of the workpiece is done by hand, using sandpaper pressed against a perfectly flat surface. For this, a planer plate is suitable. First, sand with sandpaper with a grain of 100-150. The sole is brought to a “mirror state” with a grain of 600-800.

Important! In order to check the quality of the surface of the planer with your own hands, you can use the thinnest probe for measuring gaps. The test is carried out on both sides of the sole.

The tool is coated with a waterproof colorless varnish, and the do-it-yourself planer is ready.

Conclusion

With this tool, in addition to making grooves and sampling quarters, it is very convenient to make thin cleaning of surfaces, trimming corners, which are difficult to handle manually with a chisel.

For a better mastering of the manufacturing process, it is recommended to watch the video.

Do-it-yourself planer video

It is extremely useful, fits comfortably in the hands and is inexpensive to manufacture. This beautiful tool will make your lips stretch into a smile when you feel the beauty of working with it.

Overall dimensions, homemade planer mm: 54x178x76 (width x length x height)

The cost of high-quality planers with wooden inserts, which are produced in limited series, is measured in hundreds, and sometimes thousands of dollars. This tool is similar to them, but it is smaller and more convenient, and better suited for working with small details. Craft it from inexpensive maple wood with contrasting exotic porosity accents, adding an S25 blade.

How to make a planer block

1. Start with a maple blank measuring 64x60x230 mm. Mark vertical and oblique lines on the side face (Fig. 1) and extend them to the other three [workpieces. Using a drill press, make a 6mm hole in the center of the workpiece. Then drill four 6 x 25 mm holes in the corners on both sides (photo A).

2 Saw off cheeks A from the workpiece (photo B) and draw lines again on the rest of the workpiece. Cut the workpiece along the marking so that the saw blade passes close to the lines, and separate the heel B and toe C (photo C).

Add a planer sole to the block

1 Assemble the last by gluing cheeks A, heel B, and toe C together (photo D). When the glue dries, sand the underside of the last to make it flat. Brief advice! Use spray adhesive to attach a piece of sandpaper to a cast iron table saw or a piece of thick glass to level the underside of the block.

2. To add a durable outsole D, glue a 19x57x185mm cocobolo piece to the underside of last A/B/C, center aligned, and secure with clamps.

3. With a pencil, mark the thickness of the sole D by drawing a line parallel to the bottom edge of the shoe at a distance of 3 mm. Remove excess material with a band saw (photo E). (- save the cut to make a wedge of it E. Then file the protruding edges flush with the cheeks of the last. Sand the sole in the same way as before and remove all traces of sawing.

Form a mouth

1. Extend the oblique marking lines from the cheeks A to the underside of the sole D. Drill holes for the mouth (photo F) and trim the edges with a chisel (photo G).

2. Make a copy of the side template of the last (Fig. 1), and attach to one and: * Cheeks A using spray adhesive. Cut along the contour with a band saw (photo H), then widen the gap of the mouth so that a planer blade can pass through it (photo I).

Finish planer to final shape and add wedge

1. Glue a 6 mm brass rod into the holes of the cheeks (Fig. 2, photo J) and align its ends flush with the cheeks A using a file.

Then make a copy of the profile template (Fig. 3) and stick it on a piece of thick cardboard. Carefully cut out the template along the contour lines and mark the shape of the bell with it (photo K). File off the excess material with a band saw and sand the planer smooth.

2. Mark and cut the wedge blank E from the rest of the sole blank (photo L). Sand the beveled edge flat and check how the wedge fits into the shoe (photo M). Further sand or file the clip so that it fits snugly between the brass rod and the blade.

Note. If you have the same rounded blade for the Scherhebel planer, make it square before sharpening it at a 25° angle. We also shortened it to 95 mm with a hacksaw, but you can leave the original length and this will not degrade the properties of the blade.

3. File the wedge to the final length and shape (Fig. 4). Then round off the top corners of heel B and toe C to make the planer comfortable to hold. Sand all the flying with #220 sandpaper and apply wax paste for finishing. Use a wooden mallet to adjust the blade reach. If you hit it lightly on the heel of the block, the blade will retract and the chips will be thinner. With light strokes on the blade, it can be extended, as well as tilted to the right or left.

Do-it-yourself planer - photo

A. The workpiece is first sawn into pieces, which are then glued together again. Auxiliary holes will help to accurately align them when gluing.

B. Saw off cheeks 6 mm thick from the workpiece. To safely guide a short workpiece and control the cut, use a pusher from a wide board cut.

C. To keep your fingers at a safe distance from the blade and make precise miter cuts, clamp the workpiece to the cross fence pad.

D. Apply glue evenly on heel B and toe C, glue cheeks A and insert 25 mm dowels into the holes.

E. Sole blank D protrudes beyond the cheeks of the last. To ensure that the block is horizontal when sawing, attach a 6 mm board with double-sided tape.

F. With a 5mm center point drill, carefully make a series of holes between the marking lines and remove excess material at the edges of the gap.

G. Resting the blade on the bevels of heel B and toe C, guide the chisel to trim the edges and corners of the gap, removing excess.

H. While cutting along the dotted lines of the template, remove the dowel ends and shape the last into the shape shown.

I. Widen the gap first with a coarse file, then file the surfaces with a velvet file until smooth.

J. Apply cyanoacrylate ("second") glue to the top edges of the holes so that the inserted brass rod will push the glue into the depth.

K. Using a cardboard profile template, draw smooth lines from toe to heel. Press the template firmly so that it does not move.

L. Mark a 10° angle on the edge at one end of the workpiece. Tape the blank to the rectangular cut and cut along the line with a band saw.

M. Insert the blade into the block, then the wedge blank (without shortening it yet) and make a few light blows with a mallet. Dents will appear on convex places.

List of materials and parts
	Final dimensions, mm
D* outsole

* Blanks of parts are sawn with an allowance (see instructions in the text).

Designations of materials: M - maple; S - cocobolo. Optional: cyanoacrylate glue; brass rod with a diameter of 6 mm; dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. Cutting tool: drills with a diameter of 5 and 6 mm.

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