Tips for a beginning modeler - Guide: How to assemble good models. Instructions for assembling paper sculptures Project why you need a paper scan

Before you print out the details of the model, carefully examine them and decide which pages and on what thickness of paper you will print.

For parts that need to be rolled into a small diameter tube, regular office paper with a density of 80 g/m2 is suitable.
It is better to print the bulk of the parts on paper with a density of 160-200 g/m2.
Individual parts can be printed on paper 240-320 g/m2.
For glazing, you can use film for laser printers.

Print the downloaded PDF or DJVU files on a printer on A4 sheets.

Cutting

Step 1 Before you start cutting out parts, clear your workspace of unnecessary things and papers so that you do not lose small parts.
Before cutting parts from the sheet, lightly press down the folds with a ballpoint pen with a dry tip or something similar. The main thing is not to scratch the surface of the paper.
This will help you make neater curves along the line.

Step 2 Cut each sample individually, leaving enough margin around the edges.

Step 3 Once you have cut out the piece, carefully write the number on the back so you can keep track of which pieces you have.

Step 4 Carefully trim off any excess margins on each piece.

Step 5 Always cut along the outer edge of the black line. That way, when you start assembling the pieces, they will fit together well.

Bending parts.

Use a ruler when bending straight sections. For the inside fold, place a ruler along the fold line. Then lift the paper and press it against the edge of the ruler.

External bend. To make an outer bend, place a ruler on the edge of the table and place the template on top. Carefully align the fold line with the edge of the ruler and fold the paper down.

Curved parts To give the part a natural bend, you need to rub it on the corner of the table. This will make gluing easier.
You can also wrap the part around a pencil, and then unfold it and give the part the desired rounding radius.

Gluing.

Waiting for the glue to dry completely is key to ensuring good model assembly results.
If you have glue on your hands, you will ruin your models, so make sure you keep your hands clean at all times and wash your hands immediately, or dry them with a damp towel.

Step 1 Use clear, quick-drying glue. You can use PVA (the thicker the better - the paper will warp less), "super Moment Profi", "TITAN", "DRAGON", "Moment Crystal".
Squeeze a small amount of glue onto a piece of cardboard or plastic.

Step 2 Then, using a strip of construction paper or cardboard like a spatula, scoop out the glue. Remember to apply glue to only one side of the spatula.

Step 3 Use this spatula to apply an even, thin layer of adhesive to the flap for bonding.

Step 4 Hold the parts tightly in the gluing area until the glue dries completely.

Step 5 Assemble the parts separately and wait until they are completely dry before assembling the entire model!

To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive tools - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of sandpaper: coarser-grained for initial processing and very fine-grained for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.

putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking tape

Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

A wide variety of model paints are available, from miter to water-based acrylic paints. It is better to finish with acrylic or oil paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be sprayed with semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte surface, but the airplane model should have a slight shine.

Brushes

For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.

Brush "Revell", marten, No. 4/0

Brush "Revell", No. 2

A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen table when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.

Tool location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and CP

It is good to store separated small parts in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.

Tweezers

In a complete model kit there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. An airbrush and a compressor will require the largest financial allocations, separated from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, but in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (the experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them at Tools Store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal alligator clips are a great help. Used by radio installers. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when modifying the model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. You can also use a drill to process the surfaces of the model using different attachments.

Wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

File

A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punchers of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We are buying a model

We have acquired a tool, now we can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stick with something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War: the North America P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero or the R-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they do not contain so many details. For the most part, it's like Thunderbolt. Both the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It’s better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don’t have experience, then why ruin an expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller-driven monoplanes, you can move on to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” on a scale of 1:48 and higher (if you have the desire and have a separate apartment for ready-made models).

Examination

Once you receive the model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all the parts stated in the instructions are present, decals and especially the cockpit canopy. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find complete compliance with the kit, thank the seller and run home to assemble the model. At home, select the tools you need and carefully place them on your work table. You can move on to the next stage.

Studying the instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions on the way. This is by no means forbidden (but also not encouraged - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instructions critically. Its author has his own view on the process of assembling the model, you may have yours. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. Don’t rush to scold the author if you don’t like something. Try to delve into the ideas that prompted the technologist to adopt this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?

Checking for lice

The overall quality of the model is quite easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. To avoid losing the cut parts, it is recommended to keep them in a special box. The parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but under no circumstances should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Cleaning parts

There may be traces of mold grease and other grease stains on the castings; these should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts in warm water for about ten minutes, then scrub them thoroughly with soap and an old toothbrush. Rinse under running water and leave to dry.

Stripping

After the parts have dried, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper and go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place where the halves are glued completely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better glue adhesion. Also clean the places where the parts attach to the sprues.

It happens that one of the fuselage halves is cast with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small block of wood, wrap it in sandpaper and sand the end of the fuselage rugs, especially carefully sanding the area of ​​the protruding part. It is best to scrape the part itself not with sandpaper, but with half a razor blade. Use a modeling knife to remove the flash. In addition to the factory, a small “burst” may appear when sanding. Some plastics will peel. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of ​​the cutout for the cockpit canopy, in the air intake opening, and in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when the defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Adjusting the lantern

Fold the fuselage halves. They must fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat sanding the halves using sandpaper. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (while it can be secured with rubber bands). The lantern, again, must fit perfectly “in place”. Otherwise, carefully sand it down to fit it to the fuselage. There are “deadly” options - the canopy is thicker than the fuselage. Well, sand the plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the flashlight to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American floor polishing liquid. Adds transparency and shine to clear decals.

It is much worse if a gap forms between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the back of the fuselage. Such a defect can be “treated” with putty. The trouble is the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the inside of putty with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a model of a ship in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cutout for the center section.

Customizing the cabin interior

It's time to separate the cockpit interior elements from the sprues: the dashboard, the floor, the rear wall. Adjust the parts to fit by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and instrument panel are too wide for the fuselage halves glued together. On some models, the side panels of the cabin are cast integrally with the fuselage halves; on some, the floor of the cabin together with the side panels forms a kind of bathtub. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Adjust it to fit.

Now cut off the small parts of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control handle. pedals, pilot's seat. Peel them and put them in a box so as not to lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes during the construction of a model it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removing broken parts, traces of pushrods, cleaning casting seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay careful attention to the selection of paints for the cabin interior. Group the pieces by color. Parts that are painted in different colors are conveniently clamped in “crocodiles”. Make sure that the alligator’s “teeth” grip the parts securely - a stream of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping away a poorly secured part. First of all, the cockpit itself is painted in the base color (most often, these are the inner sides of the fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the cabin “decoration”: radio remote controls, trimmer controls, oxygen supply valve, etc. Most often these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting the visible internal surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the included decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals, at best, correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent. Much greater realism can be achieved by brushing the dashboard with water- or oil-based paints. Painting the dash the base color is necessary even when using a decal. It is easier to paint instrument panels on which individual instruments are imitated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the instruments are outlined with a lead pencil. Finally, a drop of liquid glass or, at worst, colorless nail polish is placed on the scale of the device; after drying, the varnish or glass is lightly polished.

The Thunderbolt's instrument panel was painted black, and the instrument dials were painted white. Again, you'll have to start by painting the dashboard matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation instrument scale and “smeared” to the edges of the instrument. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. The scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the interior elements of the cabin, you can begin assembly. Provided the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause any difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from a physics course. The two parts are pressed tightly against each other, and a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. The drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the cabin interior is made in the form of a “bathtub”, as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and after gluing it must dry at least overnight. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and go to bed to fill it up. If not, adjust it using the familiar method of sanding, cutting and filing away excess plastic. After gluing the “bathtub” and the glue has set slightly, make a final check - once again put the fuselage halves together, one of which already has the cabin glued into it.

Assembling the fuselage halves

Typically, the instructions recommend applying glue to the joining surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most people do just this, but in this case there is a high probability of uncontrolled squeezing of excess glue onto the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and coat them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, this case also has its pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on your fingertips, and the latter can leave imprints that are difficult to remove on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers away from the fuselage seam when applying the glue. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After drying for several hours, it is necessary to clean the adhesive seam flush, having previously protected the pilot’s cabin from sawdust with tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be given time to dry thoroughly. The seam is cleaned with sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been completed. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Let's add a wing and tail

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and rudders, the height is easy to approach.

Correction of defects in the brutal tail

On most small scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the stabilizer halves are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most often they are free of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to use “hot cleaning”.

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with the unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part and straighten it before it cools down. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thinner parts require less heat. All tail surfaces have fairly thin leading and trailing edges; if you simply eliminate the defect by bathing in hot water, you can easily damage the edges. It is advisable to bend only the thick layer of stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying and degreasing.

Adjustment of tail surfaces

Insert the stabilizer half into the fuselage. As a rule, the joint location, even on good models, requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but in the meantime we need to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer matches the sagging on the fuselage. If the bead is thicker, then it needs to be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, but if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have adjusted the tail unit in place, you can begin gluing it. If the rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the mating surfaces and press the rudder to the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued as if it were in the neutral position, so check several times by inspecting the model from the front, rear and top to ensure that the rudder is in the correct position.

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has cured, you can begin to attach the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. It is best to check by eye that the stabilizer is glued correctly by inspecting the assembly strictly from the rear with a 90-degree turn. In this case, the stabilizer takes a vertical position and it is easier to mentally compare the relative positions of its halves; the halves should be on the same axis. Having set right angles, secure the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

Wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and a common lower part for the right and left planes; there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Aligning and gluing the rigid wing

Defects in the rigid wing are eliminated using the already familiar “heating-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing the planes, you should control the transverse “V” angle and the installation angle of attack. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and “V” for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. It is convenient to control the uniformity of the transverse angle by the width of the gaps between the planes and the center section. Gluing the planes. Check the installation angles and secure the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. Working with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage is extremely inconvenient, and the jointing is almost always damaged during the work. However, there’s nothing you can do, don’t leave a gap. With the proper skill, it is quite possible to restore the jointing.

Alignment and gluing of wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes using sandpaper; a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's fold the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and jointing lines should converge. In practice, we usually have to remember the saying “the tail is out, the nose is stuck.” After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the jointing lines do not match. It is best to take the coincidence of the jointing lines of the upper and lower halves as a reference point when gluing. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and secured with narrow strips of camouflage data. Gluing occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After the glue has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto the joints that they covered. While one plane is drying, you can work on the second. Finishing of surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the glue has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage in the same way as solid halves. Once again, it doesn’t hurt to remind you: control the installation angles, first of all, the transverse “V” angle.

Aligning and gluing a three-piece wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower one, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Replace the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check the installation angles. Then place the upper ladles of the planes in place and also secure them with tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of a four-part wing: mismatching of the tips and jointing lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert thin plastic spacers of the same thickness into the gaps between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine, make the capillary effect work for the good cause of gluing the upper halves to the lower part. After the main adhesive seam has set, remove the tape and apply glue to the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before puttying and cleaning. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in assembling the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.

This question always arises before people who want to take on a new type of activity. The same question will torment novice paper modelers.

Let’s put aside the mental anguish that often torments beginning “cardboard makers” about the correctness of the chosen path. I will only note that high-quality models can be made from paper; for this you need three components:

1. Accuracy
2. Perseverance (Patience)

So, you have decided on the direction of your activity, now the next step is to choose your area of ​​interest, and you also need to take into account your own character traits. Below we will try to consider the main trends in cardboard modeling and briefly describe them:

1. Aviation. The main scale of cardboard models is 1/33, less commonly 1/24, 1/32, 1/48, 1/50, 1/72, 1/100, 1/144 can be found. Airplane models, as a rule, do not take long to assemble, so they should interest the impatient (but no one canceled accuracy). When assembling airplane models, great importance should be attached to smooth transitions of sections, since any step transitions can turn your model into a paper toy (streamlining is one of the key qualities that aircraft designers fought for). Some difficulty may arise when assembling transparent lanterns.
2. Ground equipment. The main scale of cardboard models is 1/25, less often 1/16, 1/35, 1/72, 1/100. The assembly of ground vehicles, especially armored vehicles, is one of the most popular. Features of the BTT assembly include relatively simple forms, which undoubtedly makes life easier for the modeler; on the other hand, many samples have tracks, which are still recommended to be made either from separate tracks (represented in most models) or using laser cutting ( sold separately). The process of making such a “goose” is a long process and consists of a number of monotonous operations (a tank caterpillar usually consists of 70-100 tracks, and there are 2 of them), which may not please many modellers, especially beginners (though they say that during this procedure most reaches enlightenment). Tracks made from paper tape look, to put it mildly, unnatural and can ruin the impression of the model. Beginners can be advised to get acquainted with armored vehicles through various wheeled armored personnel carriers and vehicles, which, in my opinion, will not let them get bored.
3. Fleet. The main scale is 1/200 (for sailing ships it is 1/96). Frequently found scales are 1/25, 1/50 (various types of boats and small submarines), 1/72, 1/100 (quite a popular scale for small ships like destroyers, torpedo boats, etc.), 1/300, 1350, 1/700. Particularly noteworthy are the scales 1/250 and 1/400 - these are popular scales of ship models along the waterline, i.e. without underwater part. I don’t even know if ship assembly can be recommended to novice modelers, since ship modeling is one of the most labor-intensive areas in the cardboard world. What complicates the assembly is, first of all, the small scale, the high saturation of the ship with various mechanisms, and the frequent repetition of elements. An important stage is the production of a neat underwater part, without kinks and sharp boundaries (most modelers putty, sand and paint the bottom, which significantly increases labor intensity and in some way reduces the attractiveness of paper models). In addition, assembling a ship takes more than one month, so those in a hurry and choleric people should refrain from working with a paper fleet. On the other hand, a neatly assembled ship looks simply incredible.

In addition to these trends, which are undoubtedly the most popular, we can talk about the existence of architectural models, railway models, fantasy and science fiction figures and accessories. Probably, here too there are standards and features, but to me, as a person not interested in these areas, these standards and features are unknown.

So, the area of ​​interest has been chosen, and your hands are itching to take up the scissors again. Take your time, you want to enjoy the process and the result, right? Therefore, you have a very responsible and difficult step ahead - choosing the first model. What criteria must be taken into account in order not to get into trouble:

1. Convergence– this is the most important criterion, especially for the first model. If adjacent parts do not fit together, then it will be extremely difficult to make an accurate model without gained experience. Therefore, I recommend choosing models with computer development (almost all new models are developed on a computer). There are many hand-drawn models on sale and on the Internet; they are clearly not worth choosing as your first-born. You can learn about convergence on the forum by looking at assemblies of models that interest you, and you can use them to estimate the labor costs that await you on the thorny and slippery path of modeling. Try to find out the author of the models you like, since you can assume that if one model is assembled perfectly, then others by this author will be no worse.
2. Model complexity– also an important factor, the first model should be as simple as possible, although most modelers tend to want to make it spectacular (therefore, the first model is a compromise between common sense and the modeler’s superego). I strongly recommend that the first model be assembled from printed magazines. As a rule, in normal publications the paper and color scheme are chosen correctly, which also does not float upon contact with glue, wet fingers, etc. Someone might argue that there are a lot of free (and if you are not constrained by moral principles, then pirated) models on the Internet and why buy, what can you get for free, and besides, if you spoil one copy, you can always print another more. I want to say right away that you need to keep in mind all the difficulties that await you along the way, and there are quite a few of them. Let's look at them in more detail:
   • The need for a color printer, preferably with a mode of high-quality photo printing and high-quality consumables. Probably, most people have a color inkjet printer; they will also need photo paper with a density of 160 - 180 g/m2 (most models are printed on paper of exactly this density).
   • Correct color rendering. With free models, things are a little easier because they are digital, which guarantees the same color on different sheets of the electronic model. All guarantees disappear when printing the model, since some printer models (especially when a color runs out) give a different color, and even more so it will appear if you use paper of different thicknesses and manufacturers or print sheets over a long period of time. A very bad situation can happen with scanned models, since scanning can seriously distort the colors and here you will have to master Photoshop or a brush.
   • Correct transfer of geometry and scale. This is also important, since the convergence of the model will depend on this. If you overlooked the print settings, you may end up with a set of sheets with different scales, but almost any printer will try to introduce geometric distortions, and they will certainly appear if you include a scanner in this chain.
   • The need for post-printing processing. Inkjet ink (and most will print exclusively on inkjet printers) tends to blur when exposed to moisture (wet hands, water-based glue, etc.). To protect the pattern during work and the finished model, it is advisable to cover the printed sheets with matte acrylic varnish (autovarnish, or varnish that is sold in art stores).

     To summarize, before you start printing a model, think carefully and calculate not only the labor costs, but also the cost of printing; it is quite possible that it is cheaper to buy a published model.

3. Details of instructions and assembly drawings. Due to the lack of experience in the first model, questions arise constantly, even when assembling simple components and parts. Some will not hesitate to ask in the forum, others will figure it out on their own, but it is still desirable to have a lot of wiring diagrams (It is not a shame to use pirated products in the form of “scans” to familiarize yourself with the assembly instructions). Most models are published in Poland (the Mecca of paper modeling), so the language of instructions is often Polish (sometimes English), and if you want to understand what the authors of the model are writing about, then the easiest way is to find Russian-language publications (fortunately, these are also available).
4. Historical accuracy or similarity to the prototype. This is probably the most controversial point, since everyone has their own criterion of historical authenticity. The similarity of appearance will be enough for one, the other will express dissatisfaction with the number of rivets in the seam, but in any case, assembling models similar to the prototype is much more pleasant.

When choosing your first models, do not hesitate to contact more experienced modelers, for example, through the forum. A polite, well-posed question will always be answered.

Well, is the chosen model now in your hands? Then you can take up the tools!

In order for the paper model to have smooth and regular fold lines, immediately before the fold you need to use some kind of blunt object (this could be a mechanical pencil, a non-writing ballpoint pen, etc.) and draw it along the fold line, making a small groove.

Typically, this procedure is performed before cutting out parts of a paper model: a blunt instrument is carried out along the fold lines, making a small groove. Thus, when you try to bend along the fold line, the part will bend exactly where you passed the tool.

To get very sharp edges when making models from thick paper (cardboard), you can follow the fold lines with a paper knife, but not all the way, cutting only the top layer of paper. The next time you bend it, its edges will be sharp.

Cutting

Cut out the details of the paper model either with scissors or a paper knife. Scissors work well for large pieces, and there are two types of scissors you can use - large ones with straight blades, and nail scissors with small curved blades. Straight scissors are useful for cutting out large pieces, while nail scissors are useful for cutting out smaller, curved pieces. A paper cutter is great for very small parts and also for cutting out internal holes.

Before you begin, make sure that the area of ​​the table where you are going to work is well lit. This is important so that you can clearly see the cut lines. When using a paper cutter, it is a good idea to have a cut-resistant mat to protect the table as well as the knife itself.

It is important to always use a sharp blade and not press too hard on the knife. Cutting paper will then be very easy.

Don't try to twist your hand along all the curves of the line to cut out complex shapes. It is necessary to twist the sheet. This way you will do it faster and more correctly.

Cut one part at a time, do it exactly when you need that particular part. There is no point in cutting out all the details, because they may simply get lost. If you did this (cut out all the parts at once), do not forget to put a serial number on the back of each of them.

Fold

There are 2 types of bend - external and internal.

To make an outer fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is above the folded sides. The result should be a so-called convexity; it’s not for nothing that in English the outer fold sounds like a Mountain fold, mountain in English means mountain.

To make an inside fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is below the folded sides. It should look like a notch, it’s not for nothing that in English the internal fold sounds like Valley fold, valley translated from English - notch, gutter.

The most commonly used type of fold in paper models is the outer fold.

As a rule, each type of bend on model parts has its own symbol. Dotted lines (_ _ _ _ _) are usually used for outer folds, dash-dotted lines (_ . _ . _ . _) for inner folds. Solid lines (______) are usually used for cutting lines.

Gluing

Gluing is one of the most important stages of paper modeling. The appearance of the model and the correctness of its assembly depend on correct gluing. Pay great attention to this stage.

Most paper model parts have special tabs for applying glue, so to glue two parts together you will have to apply glue to the tab and press the parts together.

Important tip: don't use too much glue! It is enough to apply just one drop of glue to the part and spread it over the surface with a brush or finger. If you have used a lot of glue, it will end up on the model itself; at this point you need to quickly remove it by wiping it with a cloth or your finger. It is important to use glue that does not leave marks on the model itself.

In some situations, it is necessary to apply glue not to special tabs, but to the parts being glued. This applies to internal gluing, when one part is placed inside another. In this case, glue is applied to the side edges (see figure).

Fillet

Many models use cylindrical parts, these can be the masts of paper ships, the columns of historical buildings and much more.

To round a part, to make it more pliable for making a cylinder, you just need to draw it along the back side of the part, for example, with a mechanical pencil or a metal ruler. The part will immediately become more rounded, and it will be much easier for you to give it the desired shape.

For very small paper pieces, you can use a toothpick.

Docking

Some models use a separate special tab, with which two parts are glued together. A special tab is glued under both parts, giving the surface an almost perfect look.

Typically, this method is used to create airplanes and spaceships to give the fuselages an ideal look.

Painting joints

When two pieces are glued together, their edges remain white - the cross section of the paper. For paper models made in dark colors, this point becomes critical.

As a workaround, after cutting out the pieces before assembling, use colored markers or pencils to tint the edges the color you want.

What techniques do you use when making paper models?