Dutch oven in a private house. Dutch oven: types of designs and masonry recommendations

Despite the variety of modern heating appliances, they have not been able to displace the old, time-tested Dutch stove. It does not require a complex system for the circulation of the coolant and is much cheaper than any modern boiler plant. The small-sized design of the Dutch woman can be used not only for heating housing, but also for cooking.

Dutch design features

The Dutch chimney has 6 channels for the circulation of hot air - 3 lifting and 3 lowering. Coming out of the furnace, the smoke rises through the first channel, while heating the walls of the furnace. Having lost the temperature, it goes down where it heats up again and goes up, but through the second channel. Heating up and cooling down, the smoke alternately passes through all the channels of the furnace until it enters the last one, from where it is discharged outside the room through the chimney. The six-channel Dutch system extends the hot smoke path, which ensures uniform heating of the furnace walls without sudden changes and allows them to retain heat for a long time.

Thus, the main elements of the Dutch are:

firebox;
smoke channels;
chimney.

In its original form, the Dutch woman was used only for heating the room and did not have a blower and a grate. These elements were added over time, greatly increasing the efficiency of the oven. The functionality of the design was also expanded by adding a hob, oven and stove bench. Modern Dutch women are equipped with a tank for heating water or a tank for a water heating system.

The Dutch stove can have a variety of geometric shapes, but regardless of the configuration, the combustion chamber always has a large volume and a rectangular shape, which increases the heating efficiency and allows you to upgrade the design of the Dutch stove in the future by adding a water tank.

In a traditional Dutch woman, the smoke channel has a side exit - this is due to the fact that in medieval Holland, residents paid a tax on pipes and, in order to save money, led several stoves into one chimney. In the upper part of the structure there is a damper that allows you to adjust the heating temperature of the furnace.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Dutch

In terms of efficiency, the Dutch stove with a hob compares favorably with the classic Russian stove - the walls folded into half a brick warm up faster, and the small dimensions and elongated shape of the structure allow it to be placed in a fairly cramped room. As for the consumption of building materials, the construction of a Russian stove requires approximately 1,400 bricks, and the construction of a fairly impressive Dutch oven requires only 650-700 pieces.

The Dutch oven is better suited to those people who do not permanently live in a country house, but visit there from time to time. Warming up the room with a Russian stove takes several hours, and the Dutch woman will need no more than 30 minutes for this - the volumetric firebox can immediately be densely loaded with fuel and give the stove maximum heat.

Other advantages of the Dutch oven:

Despite the impressive list of advantages, the Dutch woman has a number of significant drawbacks:

The efficiency of the Dutch stove does not exceed 45%, which is incomparable with the Russian stove. To maintain a comfortable indoor climate, the stove must be heated at least 2 times a day.
Dutch refers to long-burning designs and is demanding on fuel quality. Fast-burning brushwood or straw is not suitable for the firebox; it is also not recommended to use wet fuel - this leads to soot settling in the chimney channels and the risk of its ignition.
The Dutch channel system is designed in such a way that it can work like a siphon, drawing in cold air from the street - if the damper is not closed after the firebox, the stove will cool down very quickly.
The Dutch oven is afraid of overheating. In this case, carbon monoxide is released and enters the room. The optimum temperature of the walls of the Dutch is 60 ° C.

In most cases, the Dutch woman is used to heat rooms with a limited area. If the house is spacious and has many windows, then it is better to use other types of heating structures.

Basic rules for building a Dutch woman with a stove

Regardless of the size and shape of the furnace, during its construction there are several rules that always remain unchanged:

The structure is always built on a separate foundation. It is desirable to think over its device at the stage of building a house - in this case it will be easier to determine the exit point of the Dutch chimney and avoid it getting on the elements of the roofing system.
The foundation is covered with waterproofing material.
For the construction of the combustion chamber, high-quality fireclay bricks are used, which are not tied up with ordinary ones.
Due to the low heat resistance, the cement mortar is not suitable for laying the furnace. The brick is laid out on a heat-resistant clay mixture. You can buy it ready-made or cook it yourself.
When laying the firebox, the joints should be no more than 5 mm, on the other elements - no more than 8 mm. This can be achieved by using an appropriate wooden lath.

If the decision to build a Dutch woman was already made in a finished house, then in this case it will be necessary to dismantle the flooring section and make a foundation without connecting to the main one. Neglecting this rule can lead to sad consequences, since during operation the structure shrinks and the furnace built on the main foundation can be deformed. As a result, the tightness of the seams will be broken and carbon monoxide will inevitably penetrate into the room.

In terms of fire safety, the Dutch woman is quite reliable, but a few basic rules should still be observed during its construction:

an asbestos slab laid in front of the stove will help to avoid accidental ignition from sparks and coals falling out of the furnace;
regular cleaning of the Dutch channels from settled soot should be carried out;
wooden walls must be protected from the furnace with refractory material;
it is forbidden to place pieces of furniture closer than 0.5 m to the stove;
it is necessary to minimize the number of metal elements during the construction of the structure.

All iron parts should not be in direct contact with the brick. In places where such a docking is provided, a solution is laid with a layer of 5 mm and an asbestos cord - this will protect the masonry from heating.

Construction of a dutch with a stove

Before starting the construction of the furnace, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which consists in pouring the foundation and preparing the mortar for masonry.

Foundation pouring

Ideally, the construction of a Dutch woman should be planned before building a house. If the work is carried out in an already equipped room, then it is necessary to remove part of the floor covering. The base of the Dutch woman is separated from the foundation of the house by a sand cushion. The depth of the foundation pit for pouring the base should be at least 0.5 m. Its length and width are determined depending on the dimensions of the furnace - 15-20 cm are added to the dimensions of the sides. A layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick is poured on top of the sand cushion and a formwork is installed, all sides of which must be wrapped with ruberoid. The formwork is poured with a cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1:3. After this, a technical break should be taken until the solution is completely dry.

After 25-30 days, when the foundation has gained sufficient strength, it is sprinkled with a layer of sand 3-5 cm and covered with roofing material for waterproofing.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

As noted earlier, the cement-sand mixture is not suitable for Dutch masonry - clay mortar is used for this. For its preparation, clay should be crushed and poured with water, the excess of which must be removed. After a few hours, when the clay is saturated with liquid, sand is poured in a ratio of 2: 1 and thoroughly mixed, then water is poured in an amount of 1/8 of the total volume. The process of preparing the clay mixture must be carried out 2-3 days before the start of the construction of the furnace.

To check the quality of the prepared mixture, it is enough to move it with a trowel to the side. If the trace remains smooth, without torn areas, then the mixture is cooked perfectly. If the solution does not have enough density, and it spreads, then in this case it is necessary to add more clay.

Ordinal Dutch masonry with a stove

The laying of the furnace is carried out according to the scheme, which indicates the number of rows and bricks. Experts recommend pre-folding the structure without mortar, and applying marks on the bricks for reference. In order for the furnace to have a strictly vertical position, it is necessary to pull the plumb lines and control the masonry at all stages with a bubble level. Before laying, the bricks are placed in water so that they do not draw moisture from the clay mortar.

The construction of the Dutch is carried out in the following sequence:

At the final stage, the chimney is laid, which is displayed above the roof surface to a height of 60 cm.

The first Dutch firebox with a stove

The first furnace furnace can be made in 10-14 days - this time is necessary for the complete drying of the structure. The firebox door must be left in the open position. If construction work was carried out in the cold season, then a lamp can be placed inside the Dutchwoman to speed up the drying process. It is forbidden to melt a prematurely damp oven, otherwise it may crack.

First of all, you should check the draft; for this, a sheet of paper is set on fire in the fuel compartment. If the smoke leaves normally, then you can proceed to the test furnace furnace. The Dutch firebox is filled with 20% brushwood or sawdust and kindled, while all dampers must be fully open. The furnace in this mode will completely dry the structure. During the first week, make sure that the temperature inside the oven does not exceed 600°C.

The centuries-old history of the Dutch oven begins in the fifteenth century. The classic Dutch woman has a rectangular shape and is traditionally tiled - it is believed that it was the Dutch stove that discovered this unique finish to the world. The compact and simple design of the popular model is explained by the tightness of the premises, characteristic of Dutch dwellings. Initially, the stove was exclusively heating, but now many changes have been made to the simplified scheme that have improved the ancient hearth.

The device and principle of operation of the Dutch oven

According to the device and the principle of operation, the first Dutch ovens were distinguished by the absence of a blower and a grate. However, later these important elements were added to the design, which significantly increased the efficiency of the hearth. The movement of gases traditionally passes through six channels located one above the other - three lift and three release. Modern stove-makers introduce their modifications into the channel system, which increase the efficiency, and use a more efficient bell-type system.

Initially, the vault of the firebox had an arched shape, but it was replaced by a voluminous rectangular firebox. Over time, craftsmen learned to complement the standard design with a stove, oven, fireplace and hot water box. The modern Dutch brick oven has become an affordable universal unit that can satisfy the needs of a summer residence and a residential building.

Benefits of a brick dutch

Fans of this popular hearth without hesitation will name a dozen advantages that distinguish their favorite model from other stoves. Here is just a short list of good reasons to choose a Dutch stove as a home oven:

compact dimensions - if desired, you can find the order of the Dutch heating stove measuring 0.5 * 0.5 meters;
saving building materials - for a large construction, 650 bricks are enough, which is two times less than for laying a small Russian stove;
only a firebox is laid out of fireclay bricks, red brick is suitable for the rest of the details;
light weight, which simplifies the installation of the foundation;
the ability to build a hearth on two floors (there are craftsmen who can pull stoves up to 3 and 4 floors);
high heat transfer, while the walls of the hearth do not heat up above 70 degrees;
simplicity of masonry, which a beginner self-taught stove-maker can easily cope with;
Dutch stoves for the home do not need regular firing and “acceleration” after a long downtime - an excellent choice for seasonal summer cottages.

Among the shortcomings of the overseas pet, it is worth noting its high requirements for the choice of fuel. Slow-smoldering fuel, which forms a minimum of ash, is more suitable for the firebox. The low efficiency of channel furnace equipment is annoying with frequent fireboxes - to maintain a comfortable temperature in the house, at least two fireboxes per day will be required.

Do-it-yourself Dutch construction

Building a Dutch stove with your own hands is much easier than building a complex Russian stove. Modern stove-makers have developed orders of models for every taste and size. A ready-made laying scheme for a Dutch oven is the most affordable and reliable way to lay down a hearth without the help of craftsmen.

Basic rules for laying stoves

There are a lot of stove schemes, but the principles of masonry remain unchanged:

the hearth is installed on a separate foundation, covered with waterproofing material;
the first row is always laid dry, without mortar;
for the firebox, only refractory bricks can be used, which cannot be tied up with ordinary bricks;
for construction, you need to knead the clay mortar or buy modern heat-resistant mixtures recommended by the manufacturer for furnace equipment;
the thickness of the seam when laying refractory bricks should be 3-5 mm, and when working with ordinary bricks, a mortar layer of 5-8 mm should be adhered to;
it takes at least two weeks to dry the building, for this period the doors are left open.

To heat the house, you can try to fold a simple Dutch oven with your own hands according to the drawings and the ordinal scheme, laying out the rows step by step.

Ordinal Dutch scheme with increased efficiency

The author of this heating furnace managed to increase the efficiency of the hearth due to the modified design. In the upper massif of the structure, the channels for gases are supplemented by four caps. The firebox has two small windows 7*10 cm in size. There are several stoves in the body.

The equipment is designed for a room ranging from 50 to 60 square meters. The size of the base is 102 * 153 cm. To build a simple Dutch stove with your own hands, you will need a ceramic brick with even edges. The finished structure does not require plastering and finishing.

Heating and cooking stove with stove and oven

To maximize the functionality of the overseas hearth, domestic stove-makers supplemented it with a hob and oven. Such a modification has become a worthy alternative to the multifunctional, but cumbersome and expensive Russian stove.

The cast-iron plate is mounted at the height of the third, fourth or fifth row from the firebox. The stove is located in a niche of a high structure, but this design looks spectacular and is convenient enough to use the device for its intended purpose.

The location of the oven and stove relative to the firebox

A cast iron oven is placed above the firebox. For this purpose, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made accessory. If you need a Dutch oven with a stove and oven, the compact dimensions of the design expand a little. The oven is built in parallel with the door of the furnace compartment, and the hob is placed above the furnace.

Scheme of a Dutch woman with a stove and oven

Two-story Dutch woman with a stove - a scheme for experienced stove-makers

Fireplace stoves based on Dutch

Modern man needs not only warmth and food, but also spectacles. The answer to the increased needs was Dutch stoves with fireplace inserts, closed with transparent fire-resistant glass doors.

To build a Dutch fireplace stove with your own hands, you should slightly expand the base of the structure. The formation of an ash pan and a chimney begins already on the second row of masonry, and holes for cleaning are also provided here.

Stylish Dutch woman with a fireplace for a modern home

Inexperienced craftsmen, starting to delve into the process of building a hearth, often face a problem: those designs for which there is enough knowledge become uninteresting, and complex and functional stoves require skill. There is only one way out - to entrust the work to a professional and carefully observe the process, gaining the missing knowledge.

Video: Dutch oven from A to Z

The Dutch brick oven is one of the most efficient solid fuel devices used for heating by many people in our time. This is a compact device of rectangular or oval shape with high heat transfer, which is explained by the presence of sufficiently long smoke channels. Flue gases generated during the combustion of firewood or coal circulate through them, while heating the thin walls of the furnace and preventing them from cooling for a long time.

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Materials and their quantity

To independently fold the Dutch oven without a stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials and furnace casting:

No. p / p	Name of material and furnace fittings	Unit rev.	Quantity
1	Ordinary ceramic brick M150 - M250	Thousand PC.	0,65
2	fireclay brick	Thousand PC.	0,05
3	oily clay	kg	90
4	coarse river sand	m³	0,5
5	Grate 250x250 mm	PC.	1
6	Cleaning door 130x70 mm	PC.	3
7	Firebox door 250x280 mm	PC.	1
8	Blower door 250x140 mm	PC.	1
9	Gate valve 130x130 mm	PC.	1
10	Gate valve 130x250 mm	PC.	1
11	asbestos cord	m	10
12	Annealed steel wire	m	10
13	Steel strip 50x5 mm	m	3,5
14	Heat-resistant adhesive for reinforcing masonry joints	kg	20

To build the foundation you need to buy:

portland cement - 1 bag (50 kg);
sand - 0.01 m³;
crushed stone - 0.5 m³;
reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 0.84 m²;
roofing material - 0.84 m²;
bituminous mastic - 8 kg;
board for formwork assembly - 152 m³;
nails - 0.2 kg;
knitting wire - 15 - 20 m.

Required Tools

For laying a Dutch stove with your own hands, a set of tools is prepared in advance, consisting of:

trowel for stone work (trowel);
tape measure, level and bubble level;
rules;
shovels;
2 tanks for mixing mortar and concrete;
wire cutter;
hammers - picks;
rammers;
stitching;
mason's square;
grinders with a disk on a stone.

Stages of work

The layout of the Dutch oven is quite simple, the materials used do not have special quality requirements. You can use an ordinary full-bodied ceramic brick and a clay-sand mortar of medium fat content in the consistency of thick sour cream. Masonry work can be performed by any novice master who knows how to lay down a straight wall with dressing of seams.

Preparatory work

Before you fold the Dutch oven with your own hands, mark up for the support of the future heater. It should be a separate structure, unrelated to the foundation of the house. And it is desirable to build it at the stage of construction of the main building. Otherwise, under the device of the Dutch oven, you will have to raise the floor covering and cut a hole in the plank floor, retreating 10 - 15 cm from all sides of the contour of the base of the furnace.

The material must be stored closer to the place where the furnace is laid, so as not to interrupt the work process. All aggregates of concrete and masonry mortar must be screened and cleaned of foreign matter. Sand and gravel, if necessary, are sown dry, but the clay must be soaked for several hours in advance, and then rubbed through a metal sieve. At hand, there should also be schemes for laying the rows of a Dutch oven for the house and its chimney.

Execution of the foundation

The Dutch woman weighs less than other models of brick ovens, but still needs a high-quality and reliable support. A good foundation option for it would be a monolithic reinforced concrete structure in the form of a slab.

The algorithm of actions when arranging the foundation for a Dutch oven is as follows:

marking the boundaries of the future support;
excerpt of a pit with a depth of 60 cm;
sealing the bottom of the pit;
backfilling of a crushed stone cushion 15 cm thick along the bottom of the pit with layer-by-layer compaction;
installation of formwork with a height of 20 cm;
fastening to the walls of the formwork of a polyethylene film for waterproofing;
installation of one row of reinforcing mesh over the entire area of the monolithic slab at a height of 6 - 7 cm from the surface of the crushed stone base. You can raise the grid using wooden props or metal pins, hammering them into the ground;
installation of vertical elements of reinforcement in the corners of the cells of the reinforcing mesh with fastening at the junction points with knitting wire;
pouring concrete into the prepared formwork;
alignment of the upper plane of the base;
ironing the freshly laid mortar with a layer of dry cement 2 - 3 mm thick.
dismantling of the formwork 7 days after the initial hardening of the material.

Before you lay down the main elements of the Dutch stove with your own hands, the concrete must gain full strength within 25 to 30 days.

Expert opinion

Pavel Kruglov

Baker with 25 years of experience

To prevent the absorption of moisture from the soil by concrete, the walls of a monolithic slab must be coated 2 times with heated bituminous mastic. On top of the structure, glue 2 layers of roofing material, hydroisol or other material with water-repellent properties on bitumen.

base for oven

Mortar and brick

To increase the adhesion of the brick to the mortar, and also to prevent the brick from excessively absorbing moisture from the masonry mixture, it must be completely wetted before laying, completely immersed in water for a few seconds.

When preparing a clay-sand mortar for laying a furnace, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of the components. Otherwise, the mixture will not be plastic enough, and the masonry joint will not be able to withstand prolonged exposure to condensate, it will quickly crack and collapse.

The main binder component in the composition of the solution is natural material - clay with a low sand content (greasy). It is not afraid of high temperatures; when dried, it forms a strong homogeneous layer that perfectly adheres brick surfaces to each other. Only, unlike Portland cement, it needs to be prepared in advance by soaking in water for at least 24 hours, and this kind of mixture dries for 6-7 days or more, depending on external conditions.

The proportions of the mortar for laying a Dutch brick oven for a summer residence are as follows:

for the combustion chamber, where the temperature is highest, the ratio in the mixture of clay and sand should be 1:1;
for the construction of the instrument case, chimney - 1 portion of clay to 2 parts of sand.

Checking the quality of the solution

Masonry and ordering description

The presented ordering of a Dutch stove without a stove involves the construction of a medium-sized structure that can heat a private house of a small area.

Dutch order

Description of the order of the Dutch oven without a stove:

row number	Description
1	The brick is laid dry solid, the level of the bed is checked. Then the row is poured from above with a clay-sand mixture.
2	The formation of the ash pan and vertical gas ducts began, the installation of a cleaning door.
3; 4	Installing a blower door. In order for the door frame to hold more firmly, a wire is used, sinking it in the seams. Thermal insulation of cast iron is performed with a basalt seal or asbestos cord.
5	Installation of transverse parts made of angle steel, which will hold the roof of the blower.
6	Covering the ash pan, installing a grate.
7 — 11	Formation of the furnace, lining it with fireclay bricks, installation of the furnace door in the same way as the doors were blown.
12 — 14	Covering the combustion chamber, building up the furnace body.
15 — 16	Installation of another door for cleaning the channels of the device. Arrangement of a bypass for the exit of heated gas from the channel in the central part to the channel located closer to the rear wall of the furnace.
17 — 18	The division of the gas duct in the central part into two channels. Overlapping of the heat exchanger from the back.
19 — 25	Further formation of the heat exchanger.
26 — 29	Cover device. Starting from the 27th row, the internal space of the unit is narrowing so that its connection to the chimney is more organic.
30	Installation of a metal valve

Appearance of the future furnace

There are several more ordering options:

Chimney Requirements

The chimney begins to be placed on top of the furnace, having previously installed a tube. The masonry technology is the same as in the construction of the walls of the case, but there are some features:

for the construction of the chimney, only whole bricks must be used. Laying quarters and halves will lead to an increase in seams, which will reduce the level of reliability and safety of the structure as a whole;
for lining, use fireclay bricks, laying it on edge;
the height of the pipe depends on the configuration of the roof, but to ensure good draft in the furnace it must be at least 3 m;
the distance between the wall of the house and the chimney duct must be at least 40 cm, and in the area of passage through the ceiling and roofing, the structure must be broadened and thermally insulated with an asbestos or lead apron;
the laying of the chimney must be carried out strictly in accordance with the order, the joints between the bricks must be carefully sealed to ensure the maximum possible draft and heat transfer, and also to avoid the penetration of caustic combustion products into the room.

After masonry

Drying

Drying a brick heater is one of the mandatory activities that are carried out before the start of active operation of the device. The oven is dried in two stages:

in natural conditions. The period of this type of oven drying after completion of masonry work is approximately 6 - 8 days. At this time, all doors and valves must be open, providing natural circulation of the air flow, which, passing through the channels of the device, removes wet vapors through the chimney to the street. Thus, only the drying of the surface of the masonry layers is ensured;
forced drying. It is carried out with the help of dry small firewood daily for a week in the warm season. In the autumn-winter season, the time for forced drying should be extended by 1 - 2 weeks.

The end of drying can be signaled by the absence of condensation products on the doors and latches of a closed appliance.

Pavel Kruglov

Baker with 25 years of experience

In order to increase fire safety, heat-insulating material must be placed on the flooring in front of the blower door, and it must be covered on top with sheet steel, the width of which must be at least 0.6 m.

First test furnace

When all parts of the furnace and the chimney are completely dry, it is necessary to conduct a test firebox of the furnace.

Basic moments:

Short-term ignition is best done in the late evening, when the temperature outside is lower than indoors. Bookmark fuel at the first firebox should be minimal. If the ignition was successful, you need to add some raw wood that smokes more.
If the chimney is of sufficient height, well insulated, then the smoke will not enter the room. If the situation is reversed, then you need to check the channels for installation inaccuracies and damage.
The last stage of the first furnace is the maximum heating of the unit for several hours. During this period, check whether cracks have appeared in the seams on the front plane of the device.

Conclusion

Making a Dutch brick oven with your own hands is not difficult at all. It warms up quickly and cools down for a long time, easily fits into any interior design and can become a hallmark of suburban real estate.

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In Russia, the Dutch stove appeared during the reign of Peter I, when there was a ban on heating structures without an installed chimney. A Dutch oven is a device made of bricks with internal pipes for long-term circulation of gases, which increases heat transfer.

You can build a square or round oven. If a hob is installed, then such stoves are called swedes. Design harmonizes with any room design. Therefore, her more often build houses and in the country. If necessary, the surface can be finished or painted. In Holland, such stoves are finished with tiles, thanks to this, the device has excellent aesthetic characteristics.

Any beginner will be able to make a Dutch oven with their own hands. For this, you do not need to have special knowledge. The main thing is a responsible approach to the performance of work. If necessary, you can watch a special video that demonstrates step-by-step construction instructions.

Design features

High degree of fire safety.
Maximum heating area is 40m2.
The absence of a blower.
Volume rectangular firebox.
Uniform heating of the walls of the device, thanks to the smoke circulation.
Lack of grates.

The main task of the oven is space heating. But if necessary, then it is necessary to cover the surface with a non-combustible material. In addition, you can install a water heating system. Competent drawings, where the necessary dimensions are indicated, allow make such a structure in sequence.

Types of furnace

Since the development of the Dutch oven, a large number of modifications. It is constantly being improved and make certain changes. Therefore, almost all heating structures became known as Dutch. It should be noted that the name of this furnace was invented in Russia.

Russian Dutch

Many craftsmen began to change the appearance of the usual one and began to call them Dutch designs, but on the technical side they have nothing in common. Such furnaces began to be built after Peter I indicated that all heating structures should be built based dutch devices. Domestic masters thought of adding both options and developing a completely new device. Then the new version returned back to Europe and became widely used in the public.

swedish ovens

Unlike the Dutch version, the Swedes are equipped cooking chamber and stove. Therefore, they can be used not only for heating the room, but also for cooking. If necessary, an oven, a heat generator or a water box can be installed in such a design. Exactly lay out all the rows of the Swede will help ordering.

Read also: Long-burning solid fuel stoves

Round dutch

This option is also was developed in Russia although it is of German origin. The scheme of the device is quite simple: smoke circulation and three channels. The furnace works by smoldering wood fuel. It is built on an iron casing, which reduces its cost. At the same time, the heating structure has good heat dissipation. However, a large amount of heat escapes through the pipe. Despite the low cost, the device is a fire hazard, soot appears on the casing, requires regular care, which is not so easy.

Malaya dacha

This design option is a small stove that is designed for heating small area, up to 20m2. Coal or wood is used as fuel. The prepared scheme and ordering will make it possible to make a design of the appropriate dimensions. Small dimensions are achieved by folding the smoke pipes into a small ring. Construction dimensions make up 520X520 millimeters.

Foundation installation

Any brickwork implies the creation. For the base, you can use a flat slab so that you can observe the laying of rows of bricks. The foundation is built into the floor. Between the foundation and the foundation of the house should be a sand layer.

To begin with, a diagram is being prepared future design.
After they will measurements taken, it is necessary to raise the floor covering.
cook cement mortar.
Installed in the recess flat plate and then filled with cement mortar. Then you need to lay the reinforced mesh. Top with another layer of cement and carefully align everything.
To seal the structure, it is recommended from above sprinkle with dry cement.

Mortar for masonry

For laying the furnace, it is necessary to prepare. It is not recommended to mix plain cement, as under the influence of high temperature it loses some of its characteristics. To prepare the solution, you need to mix clay with water in a ratio of 4:1. It is important to note that the clay must be soaked for several hours. Then drain off excess water.

Brickwork

To prevent the heating structure from absorbing a large amount of moisture, before laying it is necessary wet every brick. To do this, you need to lower it for a couple of seconds in water. If it is kept in liquid for a long time, there will be a bad grip. and the seams will be too thick. In addition, stains will appear on the oven, and she will have a dirty color.

It is assumed that the foundation has already been prepared. To prevent moisture ingress, you need to fold the roofing material in two layers and put it on the foundation.
A layer of sand is poured from above, the thickness of which should be no more than 50 millimeters. To do this, it is recommended to use the building level.
After that, you can lay out the first row of bricks without using the prepared mixture. Total should be eleven rows. Ordering will allow you to correctly make the calculation. The solution must be applied in a small layer on the first row.
For laying the next two rows, prepared mortar and red brick are used.
Then the brick must be laid with an edge. The seam should not exceed 5 millimeters. In the remaining rows, the thickness should not be more than 8 millimeters, ordering will help to check. Excess mixture can be removed with a conventional trowel.
To make the Dutch oven easy to clean, the back wall should be collapsible. Therefore, you do not need to use a solution. Another way is to install a small door, however, in this case, heat loss will increase.
The door is fastened with steel wire. It also needs to be finished with refractory material. For this purpose asbestos may work.
Until the door is completely lined, you need to continue lay out bricks. From about the eighth row, the brick is again laid flat, ordering and building level will help not to make a mistake in size.
The subsequent rows are laid out flat, only the back of the brick is also laid with an edge.
Eighth row completely closes the firebox. This level must be laid out obliquely, ordering will help with this.
The ninth row needs to be shifted back a little, asbestos for the hob should be laid on top.
Prepared for the next level chimney base.
On the last row, you need to make a flap and exit.
Dutch oven gets off with tiles, also it is possible .
The gap between the floor surface and the structure is closed with skirting boards.

The Dutch stove is an ideal option for heating a country house during the cool season of seasonal living. It is economical in terms of fuel consumption, has a high heat transfer and therefore quickly warms up the room. In rural houses without heating, it is sometimes built into a Russian stove and used in the summer to heat the hob.

Used materials and stove appliances

The material for the massif of the furnace is ordinary clay brick according to GOST 390-96. It is very important that it be well burned and, when tapped, make a sonorous clear sound. Cracked unburned brick will significantly reduce the strength and durability of the masonry.

Clay, most often red, is used as a binder when laying stoves. Conventionally, it was divided into three types according to the amount of sand in the composition:

fatty - 2-3% of the total;
average - 15%;
skinny - up to 30%.

The composition of the solution: clay, sand and water. The more sand in the natural clay, the less it is added to the clay. The clay-sand ratio for different clays is:

for oily - 1:2.5;
for the average - 1: 1.5;
for skinny - 1:1.

Sand is used fine with a particle size of less than 1 mm, so it is sifted through a sieve (cells 1-1.5 mm). You can use a ready-made heat-resistant masonry mixture.

Consumption of materials:

Clay ordinary brick (excluding pipes) - 450 pcs.
Grate 180x250 mm - 1 pc.
Furnace door 205x205 m - 1 pc.
Blower door - 1 pc.
Smoke damper 130x240 mm - 2 pcs.
Pre-furnace metal sheet 500x700 mm - 1 pc.

Furnace and blower doors

Grate and smoke damper

Necessary tools for furnace work

Furnace masonry is done with the same tool as any brickwork.

1 - pick-hammer; 2 - trowels and trowels; 3 - mallet; 4 - chopping cord; 5 - plumb; 6 - laser level; 7 - rule; 8 - building level

Foundation - monolithic concrete foundation

It is better to make a separate foundation for the oven. It can also be installed on the ceiling in case of its sufficient bearing capacity, which is verified by calculation.

In rooms where the temperature is positive all year round, the depth of the foundation is affected by the strength of the soil, the depth of groundwater. Under favorable conditions, the minimum distance between the bottom of the foundation and the planning mark at the outer side of the wall should be 0.5 m.

If the building has breaks in heating in winter and within 2 meters under the stove there are soils with water: sandy loam, dusty and fine sands, loams, clays, the depth of the foundation takes more than the calculated depth of freezing of the soil. For sands, it is 1.8 m, for loams, clays - 1.6 m in central Russia.

1 - sand and gravel pad 150-200 mm; 2 - concrete foundation; 3 - waterproofing 2 layers of roofing material; 4 - brickwork of the furnace

If the concrete mixture is prepared independently, then it will be required for 1 m 3 of concrete:

Cement M400 - 325 kg.
Sand of medium size - 1300 kg.
Crushed stone or gravel - 1300 kg.
Water - 205 liters.

Important! All ingredients are subject to requirements that comply with the norms of SNiP and GOST.

For concreting, you will need the following tool:

Shovel for laying the mixture.
Trowel for smaller jobs.
Homemade rammers or a vibrator for compacting fresh concrete.
A concrete mixer, or a container for preparing a concrete mixture.
Smoothing trowel for leveling laid concrete.

In dense, non-crumbling soils, it is possible not to install formwork for laying concrete. The pit is dug according to the size of the foundation. In terms of plan, it exceeds the size of the furnace by 10 cm around the entire perimeter. A gravel (crushed stone), sand and gravel or sandy compacted cushion 15-20 cm thick is laid on a compacted soil base.

In crumbling soils, formwork is necessary. If the furnace is installed near the wall, under which a solid strip foundation is laid, then the concrete base of the furnace should be 5-10 cm away from it. The groove between them is filled with compacted sand. It is better to lay both foundations together so as not to weaken the wall structure.

To ensure the strength of the entire foundation of the furnace, it is better to lay the mixture at a time. The process of laying concrete is carried out in layers with mandatory compaction with tampers or a deep vibrator.

Stripping can be done if there is no danger of destruction of concrete that has not gained sufficient strength. At temperatures above +5 ° C, this is possible after 1-2 weeks.

From the moment of laying fresh concrete, it needs to ensure a normal hardening regime. It is insulated at temperatures below +5 ° C and watered when it is hot and windy, at least 3 times a day.

Concreting of the foundation ends at a mark below the mark of the finished floor by 15 cm. Further, 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material) are laid on the surface of the base of the furnace.

Features of brickwork oven

It is necessary to start laying the furnace in a room protected from precipitation. You can make a temporary cover. The brick must be selected in advance for each row, taking into account the brick pressure and the dressing of the seams.

For one or two days, the clay is soaked, large pieces are crushed. Water is added gradually and the last time just before the start of work. A high-quality mortar, when dried in a masonry, does not crack or crumble. Brick before laying is lowered into the water for 2 minutes.

The size of the seam for oven masonry is 5 mm or less. The inner surfaces of the oven are rubbed with a wet brush or a simple rag every 4-5 rows. When using chipped bricks, the rough side is installed outside.

Steel paws or steel wire are attached to the oven doors, which are laid in the masonry seam. Installation of all metal appliances is carried out simultaneously with masonry.

1 - steel paws; 2 - steel wire

General view of the furnace

1 - blower door; 2 - furnace door; 3 - cleaning doors; 4 - grate; 5 - valves

ordering

To a clean floor, 2 rows of bricks are made with dressing of the seams, and only then does the laying of the first row begin.

The first row is counted from the clean floor mark. Two medium bricks are beveled towards the ash pan. The space between the wall of the ash pan and the rear wall of the oven is filled with dry sand from the first to the third row inclusive.

In the second row, a blower door is inserted with a gap of 3-5 mm, filled with an asbestos cord. Steel paws or door wire are embedded in the masonry.

The third row repeats the laying of the second, taking into account the dressing of the seams in 1/2 bricks. Bandaging of a shortened brick is allowed less.

The fourth row involves a partial overlap of the ash pan. A steel strip 35x4 mm is laid under the brick to cover the ash pan. At the back of the kiln, the sand is covered with bricks.

Fifth row. A grate is laid on the open part of the ash pan with gaps along the firebox and a gap of 5 mm, which is compacted with sand or ash. The bricks here are beveled according to the order.

In the sixth row, a furnace door is laid with a gap sealed with an asbestos cord. The bricks of the back wall are bevelled.

From the seventh to the twelfth row, the laying of the firebox is done with dressing of the seams according to the orders.

From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row, the firebox is blocked and the rear smoke channel is laid out.

The sixteenth row involves the installation of cleaning.

Channels are being laid from the seventeenth to the twentieth row.

The twenty-first, twenty-second rows combine two channels: lifting and lowering.

The twenty-third and twenty-fourth rows involve overlapping the middle and rear channels.

In the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth row, a cleaning is established.

Channels are being laid from the twenty-seventh to the thirtieth row. In the twenty-eighth row, a valve is laid.

On the thirty-first row, bricks are laid with releases for future overlapping.

In the thirty-second row, an overlap is made, and a valve is installed.

The thirty-third, thirty-fourth rows continue the laying of the ceiling and the smoke channel.

Chimney

A pipe is being erected from the thirty-fifth row.

Before reaching three rows to the ceiling, they make fluff. It is necessary as a fire prevention measure. The thickness of the pipe walls in the places where the ceiling of combustible materials passes must be at least 380 mm.

fluff

When the pipe exits above the roof, an otter is made on it to protect the roof from water penetration.

Otter

The height of the pipe for better traction above the roof depends on the distance to the ridge.

We talked in more detail about the passage of the pipe through the roof in the article.

Initial furnace furnace

The initial combustion of the stove is carried out carefully using 20% of the fuel rate (dry shavings, firewood, wood chips). This is necessary to dry the oven. It is necessary to heat in this mode from 3 to 8 days. The oven surface temperature must not exceed 60 °C. At the same time, all valves and doors open. The oven is ready for normal operation when the damp spots have disappeared from its surface.

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