How to organize a horizontal bar at home. How to install a wall horizontal bar at home? How to fix the horizontal bar on trees tips

More and more people want to pump up biceps and triceps, achieve the appearance of "cubes" on the abdominals, but at the same time lead a sedentary lifestyle.

Why can't I go to the fitness club regularly? The usual excuses are the workload of everyday problems, the eternal rush at work and, as a result, the lack of time.

If you install a horizontal bar at home in any doorway, then these excuses will cease to exist. After all, you don’t even have to leave the apartment for classes.

With the help of this simple device, it will be possible to train the muscles of the arms and back, pump up the press. The horizontal bar is relevant for a family where children grow up, as well as for people who have problems with the spine. Sporting goods stores carry a wide variety of models. If desired, the horizontal bar can be made and mounted in the doorway yourself.

Types of home trainer

Installing crossbars with various types of fastening in a standard apartment is much easier than finding a place, for example, for a treadmill. If the sports equipment does not blend well with the interior, you should consider purchasing a removable horizontal bar and installing it in the doorway.

If necessary, the product can be removed so that it does not interfere with walking, and then reattached for exercise. The mobile design is advantageous in that it adapts to any opening depth or height. Most often, the size of the horizontal bar corresponds to the width of the interior door, approximately 90 cm. The weight of the structure is no more than 3 kilograms.

The horizontal bar is installed in the doorway without drilling, when the owner of the apartment does not want to damage the wall or housing conditions prevent this.

Such a simulator is a crossbar with a spring spacer, which is installed in the doorway. Modern models can be attached between walls in a narrow corridor.

The package also includes anchors with which the projectile is attached in a standard way.

Install the horizontal bar and above the doorway. The peculiarity of this model is invisibility in the interior and braces of supports welded upwards. The sliding horizontal bar is convenient for small apartments and children's rooms. In the latter case, it is attached quite low, and in order not to interfere, they simply “fold” or “throw it on the wall”.

How to make a simulator yourself?

If you don’t want to buy a structure, you can make it yourself from improvised materials. To make a horizontal bar in a doorway, you need to use a piece of pipe with a round or rectangular section, two lugs.

You can find many schemes for the manufacture of structures, with one or more crossbars, as well as with additional bars. The dimensions of the projectile are adjusted depending on the dimensions of the room, but the diameter remains the same.

The optimal diameter of the pipe used is 25–28 mm. Supports can be both metal and wooden. The horizontal bar in the doorway with your own hands can be made removable or stationary.

Reliable fastening of the structure is a guarantee that the simulator will withstand a large load. When creating a horizontal bar with your own hands, carefully choose a pipe, which can be made of stainless or alloy structural steel.

The crossbar must not only withstand the load, but also not rust, be durable.

Having decided to make a projectile at home, the first step is to stock up on tools and materials.

metal pipe with a diameter of 30 cm, enameled;
hacksaw or grinder;
pliers and vise.

The first step of the master is to measure the length and cut off the excess. Then make cuts crosswise from each edge with a depth of 2 mm. Bend the two opposite parts at an angle of 90 degrees. Cut off the rest of the pieces. In the rest, holes are made for fastening.

The pipe is applied to the installation site. Mark up where to drill. Holes are made with a drill, dowels are inserted, and then the pipe is fixed with bolts.

How to choose the right horizontal bar?

If the decision to install a horizontal bar in the opening is final, then you should find out the selection criteria. The greatest interest and demand is caused by removable models, which are distinguished by such advantages as:

easy installation;
safe and easy operation;
the ability to supplement the projectile with children's swings and other equipment.

The spacer bar is a type of removable projectile and is valued due to the installation method. It is held in the opening thanks to a spring mechanism. The advantages of the simulator are an affordable price, no need to drill walls and use additional devices.

When choosing a horizontal bar, it is important to take into account its size, height and body weight of the owner, the width of the opening. The thickness of the crossbar is another important indicator. The larger it is, the more effective the classes. The presence of rubberized handles is mandatory, then corns will not appear on the palms. When choosing a children's horizontal bar, it is important to pay attention to the strength of the connections of all elements.

How to install a horizontal bar in a doorway?

After making the crossbar, it's time to attach it to the doorway. This can be done in several ways. A simple option involves the use of wooden blocks 10 by 10 cm in size and 3 cm thick. They are also made of plywood.

A semicircular hole is made in the blanks and attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. The bars will serve as nests where the crossbar is placed. If the doorway is quite high, then attach blanks with several grooves. Then you can lower or raise the crossbar.

The horizontal bar can also be hung on metal nests of the same size. A plate with a special groove for the crossbar is attached to the outside of the bars. The projectile is fastened with anchor bolts, holes for which are drilled in the corners.

Spacer Model Attachment

When installing a horizontal bar in the doorway, difficulties arise if you have to work with plasterboard walls or partitions. It will also not work to attach the projectile due to the small height of the opening, especially when tall people will use the simulator. The ideal place for the spacer model is a corridor opening in which the distance between the walls is 1.2 meters.

You can fix the crossbar with special sidewalls installed from floor to ceiling on both sides. The disadvantages of this method are the narrowing of the corridor and the deterioration of the general view. A more popular option is to make supports, like those of a Swedish wall, suitable for finishing the room. There may be several cuts, located at different heights.

A projectile installed in a doorway is an economical way to keep a figure in good shape with a minimum of effort. So that laziness does not prevent you from doing it, it is better to attach a telescopic horizontal bar. On the slopes, it is held by anchors. The design feature is the inability to remove at the slightest desire.

How is a horizontal bar or crossbar attached to plasterboard walls?

What else stops people from installing a crossbar in their home is drywall walls. Mounting the projectile in the doorway is more convenient for teenagers and children. An adult has to tighten his legs during exercise.

The ideal projectile location is where the feet do not touch the floor when the person is hanging from the bar. Such a place can be found between drywall partitions. In this case, the crossbar is deepened to a depth of 8 cm. For a stronger fixation, the ends of the projectile must be equipped with pointed spikes.

If the walls are finished with drywall, then a rotband or any other leveling material is placed in the hole for the crossbar, between the wall and the sheet.

Pros and cons of the simulator

When it is not possible to regularly attend fitness clubs, then installing a home horizontal bar in the doorway is a reasonable solution. The main advantages of the simulator are:

takes up little space;
versatility. Removable model is relevant when exercising on the floor;
will not break under a load of up to 120 kg.

The product also has some disadvantages - incompatibility with a weak door frame. Slopes can interfere with many exercises, preventing you from turning around. In a standard apartment, where the doorway limit is two meters, it will not be very convenient for tall people to deal with.

What exercises can be done?

On the home bar, pull-ups are performed, due to which it will be possible to pump up the biceps and triceps. If you just hang on the horizontal bar, then the spine is unloaded, scoliosis is corrected. Different types of training have been invented, each of which is aimed at developing endurance, flexibility and increasing speed-strength abilities.

Leg raise exercises help to pump up the abdominals, and while rocking, the muscles of the arms and back develop. The load is selected individually, taking into account the physical condition and the presence of health problems. For example, with diseased joints, it is not recommended to hang on the horizontal bar.

Source: https://dvernoiguru.ru/dizajn-i-dekor/turnik-v-dvernom-proeme/

How to install a horizontal bar at home?

In the modern world, most people take care of their health and instill an appropriate lifestyle, namely: they visit stadiums, gyms, swimming pools and other institutions designed to help a person stay in shape. Some people prefer home workouts to save both time and money.

To achieve this, you can install a horizontal bar in the apartment, on which you can practice at any convenient time. Now there are a lot of models of horizontal bars for sale that are intended for home use, but they are all expensive.

In the absence of excessive funds and the proper desire to stay in shape all the time, the horizontal bar can be made by one's own efforts.

Varieties of home horizontal bars, their advantages and disadvantages

A properly designed horizontal bar is a very effective projectile for sports. Systematic workouts have a very positive effect on various muscle groups, form a beautiful posture, and have a beneficial effect on the spine. The horizontal bar should be selected precisely to achieve the goal that the training person has set for himself.

1. Wall horizontal bar

With the help of anchor bolts, this type of horizontal bar is attached to a free wall. Advantages of this model:

Small dimensions. This type of horizontal bar can be placed in a small apartment, it will not take up much space; - the ability to place it at any height, limited only by the height of the ceilings;

Sufficiently reliable mounting system.

Disadvantages of this model:

Limited set of exercises, inability to perform coups, various tricks;
- weight limit.

This type of horizontal bar has the form of a bar, which is installed in the opening between adjacent walls, as well as in the doorway.

The advantages of this model:

Simple installation; - small size, the possibility of location both in the door and in the corridor; - high security, holds a fairly large weight;

It can be equipped with additional devices - a swing, rings for gymnastics, a punching bag, a rope ladder.

Disadvantages of this model:

Fastening is limited by the height of the opening; - movements are limited by the walls of the corridor, doorways;

The ability to perform only basic exercises.

Making a horizontal bar in a doorway

Required details:

A piece of pipe that exceeds the length of the doorway by 40 mm; - drills and a drill for metal; - a vice;

Bulgarian.

You need to be very careful and attentive when working so as not to injure yourself, not damage the tool, that is, you must adhere to all safety rules.

Procedure for installing a horizontal bar

It is necessary to decide on the choice of the opening in which the horizontal bar will be installed.

The attachment points must be strong enough to be able to support the weight of the average person and not crumble. At equal distances from each other, from the end of the metal pipe, it is necessary to make four shallow cuts, approximately 2 cm deep.

After this action, you need to get four identical petals, while two of which are located opposite each other, must be cut off. On each of the remaining petals, it is necessary to make a hole with a drill, while its diameter should be 4-4.5 mm.

After that, it is necessary to bend the petals to the side to the pipe at a right angle. So we got the horizontal bar mounts.

The same steps must be repeated for the second end of the pipe. After that, with a file, it is necessary to clean the pipe to a shine. Next, the rod is installed in the opening by screwing the screws into the holes on the mounts.

To install a horizontal bar between two walls, it is better to fix it in a different way. The ends of the metal pipe should be welded to the steel corners. In the walls, using a puncher and a drill, it is necessary to make holes for fasteners opposite each other.

The pipe is screwed to the wall by the corners, using seventeen centimeter self-tapping screws or dowels.

There is also a second mounting method. The steel rod is bent in an arc, with a thread at both ends.

The rod bent in an arc is thrown through the pipe, while both ends are threaded into the mounting holes at each corner.

They should be screwed very tightly on the nuts.

Thus, making a horizontal bar with your own hands is a rather troublesome business, but not difficult. If you want to achieve a certain result, you should make every effort in your power. Training on such a horizontal bar will bring not only benefits for the body, but also pleasure for the soul!

Source: https://turnik-men.ru/kak-ustanovit-turnik-doma/

Ceiling horizontal bar in the apartment: types and description of fastening

"ceiling horizontal bars"

Ceiling horizontal bars are a simulator that is available to absolutely everyone. Constant exercises on the horizontal bar at home have a good effect on the formation of a beautiful figure.

In the warm season, you can often see people playing sports in the park. Everyone wants to look good and be in shape before swim season.. The most popular outdoor exercise is pull-ups.

Horizontal bar in the apartment

"horizontal bar for home ceiling"

Not everyone has the time and opportunity to play sports on the street. Another thing is to install a reliable ceiling horizontal bar, and each time passing by it, pull yourself up. It will take you no more than a minute, but with frequent approaches, the effect will not be long in coming..

After a year of classes, you will already be able to perform complex strength exercises.

Types of home horizontal bars

Ceiling horizontal bars - bolted to the ceiling. There are also adjustable and models with different grips..

"Marboo: ceiling horizontal bar - 30 cm from the ceiling"

Ceiling horizontal bar marbo: six grips mh d008 – this horizontal bar model is worth highlighting separately. This is a high-quality sports equipment for the home from a Polish manufacturer. A large number of additional crossbars allows you to do all kinds of exercises. High-quality coated steel and rubber handles will not make you worry about the safety of classes.

Wall - fastened to the wall with anchor bolts. The main characteristics when choosing: the distance from the crossbar to the wall, length and permissible load.

Wall horizontal bars are divided into several types:

Classic - for pull-ups with a wide and narrow grip.
With a wide grip - there are additional handles on the side to increase the length of the crossbar.
With a neutral grip - have additional crossbars for a neutral grip.
With bars and an emphasis for the press - a multifunctional option.
Spacer - installed in the doorway. Such a horizontal bar is easy to install, but then holes will remain on the jambs.
Spacers between walls - are installed on the walls in a narrow passage on anchor bolts.

Mounted - mounted on the Swedish wall or other sports complexes.
In addition, there are combinations of a horizontal bar and bars.

Mounting the horizontal bar on the ceiling

The best option in old houses would be to attach a horizontal bar to the ceiling. Gypsum and thin concrete partitions will not withstand intensive work and will crack, or even completely collapse (see Gypsum ceilings, what is it?). Such a mount is not suitable only for those who have a suspended or stretch ceiling in the apartment..

We will need

Perforator and drill of the required diameter
Anchor bolts
Hammer
Key and nut

"anchor bolt for concrete"

First, decide on a place, think about where it will be convenient for you to practice so as not to interfere with others and not to break things standing nearby.

It is advisable to hang the horizontal bar at a height of 220 cm from the floor. There should be a distance of 35-40 cm from the ceiling so as not to spoil it. The length of the crossbar is recommended from 1.5 meters.

Drill a hole for the anchor bolt. The main thing is not to get into the reinforcement or the void, since there are round empty cavities inside the concrete floors (see Armstrong ceiling tiles: parameters and features). It is better to drill a new hole if you hit an empty area.
We will fasten the horizontal bar to the ceiling with anchor bolts. 4 anchors will suffice. This type of fastening is designed for concrete, brick, stone and can withstand heavy loads.

Advice! Use anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Anchors will hold the horizontal bar much better than dowels.

If you use chemical anchors, the drilled hole must be filled 2/3 with adhesive - epoxy or polymer resin. Then screw in the anchor bolt until it stops and remove the remaining adhesive. After the glue has hardened (about a day), you can screw the horizontal bar to the ceiling mount using nuts. Read the instructions for the adhesive for details. The advantage of such anchors is that they can be fixed even in empty walls, for example, in brick.

"Chemical Anchor Attachment"

When using mechanical anchors, no adhesive is required. The principle of operation of such a fastening is the wedging of the bolt sleeve inside the hole.

Drill and clean a hole of the required diameter. Then, through the part to be mounted, insert the anchor into the hole and hammer it in until the nut rests on the part to be fixed. Tighten the nut, but don't overdo it. As a result, the end of the anchor will wedge the sleeve and securely fit into the concrete (see Wall and ceiling joint: how to choose the right ceiling plinth).

"Anchor Bolt Attachment"

That's all! The horizontal bar with a ceiling mount will not take up extra space, and will never fall off the anchors. It is almost impossible to pull them out of concrete; it will be easier to cut them off with a grinder.

Do-it-yourself hanging horizontal bar

If you do not have the opportunity and desire to buy a ready-made horizontal bar, then you can make it yourself.

For this we need:

Metal pipe or thick handle.
Static rope 3 meters. Diameter 8 mm.
Anchor bolt with ring, for 10-12, 2 pcs.
2 fire carbines
Perforator

"Cheap do-it-yourself horizontal bar"

We make a horizontal bar

Decide which horizontal bar you will do - with one or two supports. The second option is more stable.
If you decide to make a reliable horizontal bar for a house for a ceiling from a metal pipe, then you need to decide how to attach the rope to the pipe - drill through holes or weld loops.
If we are making a version of wood for a small load, then we need to cut out small recesses so that the rope does not slip off. You can just nail it to the handle with small carnations.
Next, we drill holes for the anchors and fasten them. We attach carabiners to them, on which a rope will hang.

The advantage of such an attachment is that you can quickly change the horizontal bar to rings, or even a swing for children.

Source: https://potolokspec.ru/dopolnitelnye/karniz-gardina/potolochnyj-turnik-798

Hang a shelf, picture, horizontal bar

Is your curtain rod loose and not securely attached to the wall? – Our master will professionally install the cornice both to the wall and to the ceiling (except for stretch ceilings). Installation of a cornice for an experienced installer does not take much time. We install fasteners only on reliable dowels.

Our master will hang a cornice for only 1300 rubles.

Hanging a shelf on the wall is not as easy as it seems at first glance. Each work has its own subtleties. A shelf hung incorrectly can cause enormous damage to property and human health.

✓ How to hang a shelf on a plasterboard wall

Recently, drywall has been increasingly used in interior design and living rooms. Thanks to this simple material, which is based on gypsum and cardboard sheets, the walls and ceilings of the house can be redesigned beyond recognition.

Niches, arches, multi-level ceilings and partitions are built using this simple building material. But will it hold the shelves?
What to look for: 1. Availability of communications. Check if there are electrical wires or water pipes in this place.

If they are located in this particular place, then the structure will have to be moved or acted very carefully so as not to damage the energy-carrying elements. 2. Shelf weight. A light decorative structure can be hung directly on drywall, and a heavy one on a frame. 3. Attachment height.

Determine how to hang the shelf (height, distance to other items) based on the height of all family members. If the interior element has opening doors, then check if they interfere with other parts of the decor of the room and people when opening.

✓ Concrete and brick wall

The concrete wall is very strong, ready to withstand enormous loads. But screwing a screw into it is almost impossible. To mount the shelf, you will need materials and tools:
1. perforator; 2. dowel for concrete or wooden dowel; 3. hammer; 4. screwdriver; 5. pencil.

✓ Wood mount

If you have wooden walls, then hanging a shelf is not difficult. The most difficult thing for you will be to measure the location of the holes. Next, the shelf is brought with fasteners to the marked points and screwed with wood screws. And that's it.

Our master will hang a shelf for only 1500 rubles.

The use of paintings as a fashionable element of modern design is becoming more widespread. Modern and classic, romantic and melancholy - images create a special mood, enliven the interior and give it individuality and aesthetics. Most often, paintings are hung simply and unpretentiously - on a nail or screw mounted on the wall. However, the walls are different, and the traditional way has to be slightly modified. - the most convenient material that allows you to hang a picture without the hassle. A hammer and an ordinary nail are taken, which are driven in at the desired height. A picture or twine is hung directly on it, with which it is attached.- to fix the picture on this solid surface, it is necessary to use an impact drill or puncher. Using one of the tools, a hole of the required diameter (usually 6 mm) is drilled in the intended place, into which a plastic dowel of the appropriate size is inserted. A screw or a special hook is screwed into the dowel, and the canvas is hung on it.- durable, but fragile brick requires a special approach. Holes can also be drilled in brick and screws, nails or hooks of the desired size can be fixed in them with or without a dowel, but with additional precautions. It is necessary to pour a cement mortar into the drilled hole, which will prevent the formation of cracks in the brick, and only then insert the dowel or hook. It is also possible to use special brick brackets, fastened at a distance necessary to place the picture.

Our master will hang a picture for only 1200 rubles.

If you decide to diversify your morning exercises with new exercises or just tone your muscles, the horizontal bar is perhaps the easiest, cheapest and most effective way to solve these problems. To ensure complete safety when performing exercises on the crossbar, it is necessary to attach the horizontal bar to the supporting surfaces (wall, ceiling, floor) with maximum reliability.

Our master will hang a horizontal bar for only 1500 rubles.

The horizontal bar is a universal sports equipment, on which you can effectively work out several major muscle groups at once and increase overall strength indicators. Bodyweight training is an effective, popular and affordable training technique. Having installed the horizontal bar at home, you can successfully train at home by performing various exercises with your own weight on the horizontal bar.

Depending on the design and method of fastening, the following types of horizontal bars are distinguished:

wall horizontal bar

The design of the horizontal bar involves vertical fastening to the wall with anchor bolts (in two, sometimes in four places). Reliable option for a home horizontal bar. Fastening to the wall gives the structure stability.

The wall horizontal bar can only be mounted on a reliable wall made of concrete or brick. Install such a horizontal bar on thin wooden or plasterboard partitions it is forbidden.

Corner wall horizontal bar

A variant of the wall-mounted design, in which the horizontal bar is fastened in the corner, between two perpendicular walls. The corner arrangement allows you to create additional space for the trainee by using the corner.

Overdoor horizontal bar

The horizontal bar is mounted above a doorway. Thus, during the performance of various exercises, the body and legs of the trainee can go into the doorway.

Horizontal bar in the doorway

The most popular option for home horizontal bars. For training, a doorway is used, so that the trainee has enough space both in front and behind. However, such horizontal bars are often unreliable. Although the horizontal bar in the doorway is able to withstand 130 - 150 kg, it is not recommended to perform complex exercises on them, in particular exercises in the upside down position. Due to the fact that both ends of the horizontal bar go deep into the door frame, it is sometimes difficult to assess the real reliability of the horizontal bar. Over time, the tree may deform, and the reliability of the structure will decrease. Mounting directly to a concrete or brick wall is more secure than to a door frame.

There are two types of horizontal bars in the doorway:

Spacer horizontal bar

Fastened with an internal spacer spring. Such horizontal bars are usually made removable. It usually supports the weight of an adult, however, due to improper installation, buildup during exercise, or excessive load, it may break.

Sliding horizontal bar

It is fixed by means of retractable telescopic tubes. It is fastened with anchor bolts, therefore it is considered more reliable than spacer.

Horizontal bar in the opening between two walls

An analogue of the horizontal bar in the doorway, but the horizontal bar is not attached to the door frame, but directly to the walls. Not all rooms have the opportunity for such an installation, but if there is such an opportunity, then this is a great place for a horizontal bar.

ceiling horizontal bar

Ceiling-mounted horizontal bars are in many ways similar to wall-mounted horizontal bars.

Ceiling horizontal bars come in a variety of designs, from the simplest to more complex, implying the possibility of pulling up with different grips.

Horizontal bar combined with bars

An effective complex projectile that allows you to significantly expand your training opportunities by adding push-ups on the uneven bars to pull-ups.

If there is such an opportunity, try to make for yourself a horizontal bar combined with bars, because. the bars involve additional muscle groups, and in combination with the horizontal bar will give a more significant result.

What can a horizontal bar be made of

The most reliable material for making a horizontal bar is metal (preferably steel). There are examples of successful wooden horizontal bar, there are even whole wooden wall bars with a built-in horizontal bar, however, if you are not a professional carpenter versed in wood species and woodworking, then it is better to focus on a metal horizontal bar.

Structural stability and weight bearing are two of the most important characteristics of any horizontal bar. When making a horizontal bar yourself, you need to make sure that the materials are reliable and the structure is stable under load.

For the manufacture of home horizontal bars, metal pipes (water or gas) are often used, as well as all kinds of pipe corners, which allow you to create a reliable and functional pipe structure. A thread is cut at the ends of the pipes, which allows the pipe to be screwed into the corner when assembling the horizontal bar. In some cases, the pipe is used without thread, like a regular bar that is mounted in a doorway.

However, the best and most reliable way is to weld a functional and reliable horizontal bar from metal parts, using a pipe as a pull-up bar, a steel profile and corners to create a high-quality and reliable fastening.

Horizontal bar and bars-press on their own in a private house or apartment

For serious and full-fledged home workouts, the best option is to get a combined horizontal bar that includes bars and a back support for pumping the press.

Making such a horizontal bar with your own hands is a good option for those who prefer to create a training apparatus for themselves, based on their own needs and preferences. And also for those who have access to a welding machine, metal cutting equipment, metal pipes and profiles. If desired, you can always use the services of a specialist in order to cut or weld the metal parts of the horizontal bar. You can contact the metalworking shop for cutting and welding metal. The cost of the material is minimal ($ 25-30 - 900-1000 rubles) compared to the finished product in a sports store, so it makes sense to work hard and make a horizontal bar yourself.

It is worth noting that the creation of such a horizontal bar is quite painstaking and time-consuming work, requiring accuracy of measurements and accuracy of execution. First of all, it is necessary to develop a drawing of a future horizontal bar, or use a ready-made one (drawings of any sports equipment are widely presented on the Internet).

A simple drawing for a horizontal bar with bars is shown in the photo below.

To create a horizontal bar you will need

1. Steel pipe with a diameter of 30 mm:

750 mm - 1pc;

150mm - 6 pcs.

2. Steel profile 30 x 30 mm:

700 mm - 1 pc.

550 mm - 2 pcs.

400 mm - 2 pcs.

650 mm - 2 pcs.

550 mm - 1 pc.

3. steel plate:

140x120x5 mm - 1 pc.

300x70x5 mm. - 2 pcs.

It is necessary to weld all the prepared metal parts into the structure shown in the drawing. After that, it is desirable to paint the structure. Then you can start creating a soft back and armrests. To do this, you will need chipboard, or plywood, rubber handles for the horizontal bar and bars (you can buy it on the Internet, or use electrical tape instead, wrapping the places you have to tackle so that the horizontal bar does not slip out of your hands), foam rubber and a couple of square meters of leatherette . From chipboard, you need to cut out boards that are suitable in shape and size for the back and armrests, then glue the layer of foam rubber and wrap it with a leatherette sheet, which can be fixed with Moment glue, or with a powerful stapler, if any.

This design weighs about 15 kg. If desired, you can increase the width of the grip, or other parameters.

Such a horizontal bar is made removable and implies the possibility of fastening in two different ways: for training on uneven bars and for training on a horizontal bar.

Horizontal bar in the doorway

If the work with metal described above seems too complicated, you can limit yourself to the simplest option - to make a home horizontal bar in the doorway.

The optimal material for organizing a horizontal bar in a doorway is a steel pipe with a diameter of 30-40 mm. When choosing and cutting a pipe, the length should be taken with a small margin in order to make a mount. To correctly calculate the required pipe length, you need to add 40mm to the width of the doorway.

The easiest way to securely fasten a pipe in a doorway is to make four cuts on both sides of the pipe, then cut off two parallel petals on each side, and drill a hole for the anchor bolt in the other two and bend it 90 degrees. These petals will become a mount for the horizontal bar. Through the drilled holes, with the help of bolts, the horizontal bar is attached to the doorway.

There is another way to fix the pipe in the doorway, in which you can do without cutting the pipe. To do this, it is necessary to attach two metal corners to the doorway, having previously drilled 4 holes in them (2 holes for fastening to the doorway and 2 for the fixing bracket that will hold the pipe stationary) in those places where the ends of the horizontal bar will be located. The corners must be positioned in such a way that the pipe can be placed on the corners and fixed in a stable position. The pipe is fixed with special fixing brackets with threads for nuts at the ends (you can buy it on the building materials market). This method of mounting the horizontal bar is the simplest and requires minimal metal work.

In this short guide, we will reveal to you a few secrets - how to CORRECTLY and SECURELY ATTACH horizontal bar or bars on the wall and do not do it EXTRA HOLES.

Thanks to your advice and tips, we have finalized our instructions for mounting our products on the wall.

Now it consists of the following parts:

To get started you will need:

Partner — 1 pc. (preferred but not required)
Pencil - 1 pc.
Building level - 1 pc.
Construction tape measure 2 m. — 1 pc.
Hammer — 1 pc.
Drill — 1 pc.
Carrier — 1 pc.
Drills with a pobedite tip - 2 pcs: diam. 6 mm - for "rough" holes, the second drill 10 - for anchor bolts, or 12 mm - for dowels.
Wrench on "13"
Fine-grained file - 1 pc.
Vacuum cleaner - 3 pcs. (joke).
Machine oil / sunflower oil - 5 g.
PVA glue - 20 g.
Large sheet of paper (A1 format)
Push pins — 5 pcs.

Finally, the long-awaited package with our product is at your home, and you are looking forward to testing your strength and our sports equipment.

In order to do this, let's move on to the first step.

Product unpacking

Before shipping, we try to pack our products as securely as possible in order to avoid scratches and damage to the coating during transportation. As a rule, the package contains a metal structure, neoprene handles, fixing bolts.

Step 1: Slowly cut the package with scissors or a sharp knife, being careful not to damage the neoprene handles, and of course your hands.

A few words about the assembly of products ..

Before moving directly to the topic of anchoring, let me say a few words about assembling structures. The fact is that many products are sent partially disassembled in order to reduce the cost of shipping.

It is usually not difficult to assemble a product, however, many people have DIFFICULTIES WITH PULLING neoprene HANDLES on the horizontal bar.

This problem is solved very simply: take the most common SOAP, lather well with one hand, then with this soapy hand thoroughly lather the shrinkage of the handles. Now everything "sits down" in its place without serious effort. As the saying goes - “If you don’t anoint, you won’t go!”

DO NOT USE for these purposes OIL, especially machine, since the handles after it will then “fidget” for some time, in addition, some types of oils can have a destructive effect on neoprene.

PUT HANDLES ON ASSEMBLED product.

Mounting location marking

So, your product is neatly assembled, all bolts and nuts are securely tightened, it's time EXACTLY mark the holes to be drilled. For this you will need a large sheet of paper - A1 format, or a piece of old wallpaper. The paper in this case will play the role of a "template".

Step 2: Spread this sheet of paper on the floor and place the already assembled horizontal bar (bars) on top of it. Expose the product evenly and with a pencil / marker mark the places where you need to make holes:

Step 3: Now your task is to fix this sheet of paper on the wall evenly, at the right height, using pushpins or adhesive tape. Be sure to check with the help of the building level (attaching it to the sheet) whether the product will hang evenly RELATED TO THE HORIZON, and not relative to the ceiling or floor.

If you measured everything 7 times and decided that the template hangs fairly evenly - DON'T HURRY TO DRILL.

Step 4: Use a sharp, strong object (nail, awl, drill) to make small "dents" exactly in the center of the future hole. If possible, try to take into account the presence of hidden electrical wiring, fittings, voids and other "surprises".

After that, the sheet of paper can be removed from the wall. Be sure to pay attention to the strength of the wall, since the reliability of fastening primarily depends on the reliability of the wall on which you are going to hang sports equipment. The wall must be strong enough.

Choosing fasteners

If you purchased fasteners from us, then it will have the following characteristics:

Dowel bolts:

Iron bolt diameter - 8 mm, length - 100 mm, turnkey cap on "13"
The diameter of the nylon insert is 12 mm, the length is 80 mm.

The hole for the dowels should be 12 mm in diameter, 100 mm deep. Do not be confused by the fact that the iron bolt is 20 mm longer than the nylon insert.

Part of this “reserve” will go to the thickness of the horizontal bar and washer ~ 5-6 mm, the rest of the “reserve” is necessary in order to fully “open” the nylon insert. Do not forget that the end of the bolt has a conical shape, which should go beyond the nylon.

DUBEL- Designed for beginners. With the help of them, you can mount products on almost any wall, including those made of dense gypsum and shell rock.

Anchor bolts

ANKERA(expansion anchor bolts) - designed for craftsmen with experience. This type of fastening holds stronger than dowels, provided that everything is done correctly.

However, it is worth making a small mistake during installation - and your PRODUCT can fall off even from a small load. Anchors are designed only for strong, solid walls. Our anchor bolts have the following features:

Stud diameter - 8 mm, wrench nut on "13"
The diameter of the spacer is 10 mm, the length is 75 mm.

Thus, the finished hole for the anchor must be 10 mm in diameter and at least 75 mm deep.

We drill holes very carefully!

Step 5: Now is the time to drill "BLACK HOLES". They are drilled by an order of magnitude smaller drill diameter than the diameter of the dowel / anchor (for example, for a dowel with a diameter of 12 mm, a rough hole can be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm).

Tip: For drilling walls made of concrete, cement, brick, it is advisable to have a hammer drill or a drill with an impact function. Drills for such purposes must be taken with a winning solder.

Try to keep the punch as perpendicular to the wall as possible, and be careful not to make the holes too deep. If everything went well, proceed to the drilling stage FINISHING HOLES(desired diameter).

If, during the drilling process, the drill went far to the side, “fell” into the wall, or rested against something that could not be drilled (like fittings), in this case, look at the circumstances and the number of holes already drilled - you may have to “shift” a little to the side.

The drilling of finishing holes must be approached very responsibly. Remember that dowels, like anchors, should fit into the finished hole very tightly - ideally, they are hammered there with light blows of a hammer. That's why try not to gouge a hole larger than the diameter of the dowel/anchor.

Be sure to pay attention to the depth of the holes - they should be deep enough, and at the same time, the fasteners should not “fall through”.

Hint: To make it easier to control the depth of the hole, measure the required distance from the end of the drill and make a mark with a marker.

Step 6: After the finishing holes are ready, turn on the vacuum cleaner and carefully pull out the remaining dust from them.

Fastening with dowels:

Step 7: Now that the neat, even, clean holes are ready, it's time to start fixing the product to the wall.

So some SECRETS fixing horizontal bars, beams and any objects with dowels:

Plentifully grease the plastic part of the dowel with PVA glue, smear a little glue on the CLEAN walls of the holes themselves, now hammer all the dowels into the holes with light hammer blows (remember that they should sit very tightly). Do everything carefully - do not stain the walls with glue.
Give the glue a day to dry (hard to endure, but it must be done).
Carefully inspect the thread quality of the iron bolts for various burrs. If you find any, carefully cut them with a file with a fine notch.
So, the glue has already dried, the long-awaited crucial moment comes. Lubricate the threads of the dowels with any type of oil (you can even use butter), ask your partner to hold the horizontal bar and / or bars and begin to carefully tighten the dowels until they stop.

Hint: If suddenly you still overdid it and drilled one or more holes more than normal - do not despair. Before you “chemize” with glue and dowels, insert a few toothpicks into this hole, or matches in case of emergency. This tricky technique will also allow the dowels to sit snugly in the holes.

Installation with anchors

For a snack, only iron, shiny anchors remained.

Finally, we will tell you some secrets of fastening anything with the help of anchors. In fact, these secrets are very simple:

The wall must be made of durable materials (concrete / brick).
The hole must be inside without dust.
The anchor should fit into the hole as tightly as possible.
It is very important to feel the force of tightening the anchor - do not overdo it.

On this we will probably end our story. Questions, wishes, send via the feedback form. Photo and video reports on [email protected]

Epilogue

If you carefully read everything 5 times, imbued with this technology and did it one-on-one according to this instruction, then everything will be like in Vasnetsov's fairy tale:

“The horizontal bar hangs for a century - it doesn’t stagger! And it will stand for a century - it doesn’t move!”

Yes, almost forgot. If you worked with a partner - do not forget to thank him - let me do a few simple exercises, and only after that test the product for strength yourself.

BIG REQUEST

Source: http://www.turniki.com.ua/blog/page/kak-zakrepit-turnik

Spacer horizontal bar: description

Modern life makes people more and more lead a not very mobile lifestyle.

In order to maintain themselves in optimal physical shape, and most importantly, not to let their health deteriorate, many people find time in their schedule to play sports or exercise.

Some sign up for gyms, while others like to do all the exercises at home, which saves money and time.

Right projectile

The most accessible and simple, but at the same time effective simulator is a horizontal bar spacer between the walls. Despite the fact that it has a very simple design, exercises on this projectile allow you to train various muscle groups. There are different types of home spacer horizontal bars, for example, a horizontal bar placed between two walls or a spacer, installed in a doorway.

Horizontal bar spacer for home

This projectile, without any drilling, is attached using its spacer, which has a spring design. For what reasons do many people choose a spacer horizontal bar for sports? It has several advantages:

To install it, you do not need to drill holes in the wall and spoil it with all kinds of fasteners and bolts.
The spacer horizontal bar, located between the walls, does not require any devices at all for its fastening.
This type of projectile can even be used to mount a punching bag, a children's ladder or a swing on it.
It can be hung at the required height so that it was convenient to just hang on it, which is very useful for people who have problems with the spine.
The spacer bar has the lowest cost compared to other varieties.

There are many pros, of course, but there are also some cons. What are they? Negatives include:

After removing the spacer horizontal bar, traces remain at the place of its attachment on the wall or in the doorway.
If installed incorrectly or if the load is too high, the spacer bar may break off, which will lead to personal injury. This happens quite rarely, and the projectile can be classified as reliable.

Before buying an inter-door spacer horizontal bar, it is important to take into account the dimensions of the housing, and you also need to coordinate the length of the horizontal bar and the width of the doorway or the distance between the walls.

What are the models?

There are various spacer horizontal bars for the house.

Spacer horizontal bar DSK. It is very convenient to fix it, and the design does not spoil the door jambs or walls. This projectile is collapsible, and its carrying capacity reaches one centner. The width of the bar of the horizontal bar can be adjusted with bolts up to one meter. This model costs a little more than two thousand rubles.

The horizontal bar is spacer untwisting. This model has a very durable steel case. The crossbar has foam padding. They improve grip with the palms.

The mounting type of this model differs from others due to the lack of bolts. And the width is adjusted by unwinding the edges to the required size. The width varies from 23 to 39.4.

This spacer bar is also able to withstand a load of a hundred kilograms. It costs less - about 700 rubles.

How to properly fix the horizontal bar between the walls

In some situations, a problem arises when the walls in a house or apartment are made of plasterboard, and it is inconvenient to place a spacer bar in the doorway, since the height from the crossbar to the floor is quite small. And in this case, an inter-wall horizontal bar can become a way out of the difficulty. Many install it in the corridor opening, since the distance there is the most suitable.

If there are fears that the load will be too high and the walls will not withstand, then what to do? One option is to make sidewalls on both sides of the wall, which will be located at a distance from ceiling to floor. You can attach a projectile to them. But this method has a drawback, since the narrow opening narrows and the appearance deteriorates.

The second option is to decorate everything with wooden beams to match the color of the door in the style of the Swedish wall. At the same time, you can make cuts located at different heights, which will be used for various exercises, as well as for people with different heights. Such a move will narrow the opening not very much.

So, the horizontal bar spacer between the walls will be a wonderful tool that helps you regularly exercise and keep your body in good shape.

Source: http://fb.ru/article/266018/turnik-raspornyiy-description

Do-it-yourself home horizontal bar: drawings, diagrams, photos

To maintain physical fitness, not everyone has the opportunity to go to the gym, but exercises can be done at home. To strengthen the muscles of the arms, back and press, you can make a horizontal bar for the home. There are different designs - the most simple and more complicated.

Types of horizontal bars

To keep fit, it is desirable to have sports equipment at home. The simplest of them is the horizontal bar. This is one or more small crossbars that allow you to train the muscles of the arms, chest, abs and back. You just need to find the right set of exercises.

One of the easy options

For home (apartment)

In the house, it is usually easier to find a place for a horizontal bar. It is usually more difficult to do this in an apartment, so many are looking for options that take up little space, are easily removed and installed: so that they can be stored, say, in a closet and hung only for the duration of classes. For indoor use, there are such models:

wall. There are different sizes and designs - from a simple crossbar on the corners, to more complex designs for different grips and different muscle groups. They have a common type of attachment: powerful corners that are attached directly to the wall.
corner. One of the wall types. The difference is clear from the name - they are attached to two adjacent walls forming an angle.
In the doorway. Requires a minimum of time for manufacturing, and even can be removable. There are two options:
- Installed in a doorway. This is usually just one crossbar. A more complex structure here still cannot be strengthened.
- Attaches above the door. A slightly more complex design that allows you to diversify classes.
Two small wall-mounted horizontal bars: one for pull-ups, the other for bench press and “corner” 3 in 1 model In a doorway or in a narrow corridor Methods for attaching a removable horizontal bar in a doorway Ceiling mount
Between two walls in a narrow corridor. This is a kind of horizontal bar, which is installed in the doorway. It just has more length.
Ceiling. The type of installation differs: the structure is attached to the ceiling.

Which type to choose depends on the set of exercises that you plan to perform. For ordinary pull-ups, even an ordinary stick in the door is enough. On it you can adjust the width of the grip within the width of the doorway. For more complex complexes, something more serious is required.

On the street

A street horizontal bar is usually a more complex design. At least two posts dug deep into the ground, to which, in addition to the crossbar, bars and / or a crossbar can also be welded. It could also be an incline bench. This is the minimum for those who are seriously engaged in their form.

There are very simple outdoor horizontal bars - two racks with a crossbar, there are whole complexes A universal option - with a Swedish wall and devices for pumping all muscle groups Mini-sports complex in the backyard

In general, you can hang a wall horizontal bar on the outer wall of the house - an option for summer workouts.

Material selection

Usually a home horizontal bar is made of metal pipes. They are round and rectangular (square) section. Rectangular with the same cross section (diameter and diagonal) and wall thickness have greater rigidity, endure a greater load.

But if the pipe is crumpled, then the rectangular one is sharply refracted, and the round one is slowly bent. To prevent this from happening, choose thicker walls (from 2.5 mm or more).

The horizontal bar will turn out to be heavier, but it will be more reliable, it will be able to withstand heavy loads.

If the walls allow, you can hang heavy structures

You also need to choose pipes for the horizontal bar according to convenience. If we talk about operation, it is more convenient to fit a round one in your hand. But the rectangular one is easier to cook, since the round one requires a higher degree of skill.

Even a rectangular one “lays down” on the wall better, it has a larger area of \u200b\u200bsupport. This is important for wall structures.

Apparently, therefore, the frames and racks of home horizontal bars are made of a square (profiled) pipe, and the crossbars are made of a round one.

As a rule, the diameter of the crossbar of the horizontal bar lies in the range from 27 mm to 32 mm.

More horizontal bars for the house are made of wood. But since wood is heterogeneous, it is difficult to predict its behavior under stress. Considering that the movements can be jerky, it is likely that the wooden crossbar will crack. So if you want to make a horizontal bar, it is better not to use wood.

Reliability is the most important thing. Both in design and fasteners

A few words about the type of steel that can and should be used. You can make a horizontal bar for the house from an ordinary pipe - from ferrous metal. After welding, it is cleaned to bare metal, primed and painted. This is quite enough for use in a house or apartment.

For outdoor horizontal bars, it is better to treat with an anti-corrosion compound after stripping, then primer, and then paint in two or three layers. If possible, apply powder paint. It has an uneven surface, does not slip under the hand. Some types of hammer paints can have the same surface.

They also give an unusual effect: unequal color. It looks very good on metal things.

Mounting must also be secure.

You can also make a horizontal bar for the house or the street from stainless steel. It is hardly reasonable to transfer expensive material to the frame, but the crossbars can also be made of stainless steel.

Just do not take pipes made of food grade stainless steel - they are made with thin walls, so they often do not withstand and bend. Take a good alloy structural steel. It will not rust and will withstand heavy loads.

But there is another point: the pipe may be too smooth, which is inconvenient. When gripping, hands can slip.

Schemes and dimensions

Schemes of horizontal bars - that's what's important. Pipe diameters and wall thickness are important. This is really important, and the dimensions are approximate. They can vary depending on the height and size of the person. Usually they are given under the "average" height and the average size of the chest. If your parameters are larger than "average", increase the size so that you are comfortable.

This model is called three in one (3 in 1), as it allows you to train almost all muscles.

wall models

One of the most convenient and functional - wall horizontal bars. They are more bulky and complex in design, there are very simple ones. Let's start with the more difficult ones.

The figure shows a horizontal bar on which you can practice in two positions. In the picture on the right - the position for working out the press, on the left - for working out the arms, back and pectoral muscles. This design can be improved.

In the diagram on the right, there are two crossbars that are used to work with a narrow grip. You can install additional crossbars for the middle one, and use the extreme ones for the "normal" one. A wide grip is provided by handles sticking out on the sides.

It is more convenient if they have a slope of about 30°.

Two schemes of a wall horizontal bar for different grips. Different sizes, similar designs

It is not always convenient to turn the horizontal bar over, so another design was invented - with handles on the front bar. It is less massive, requires fewer pipes. But you will have to pump the press on another simulator. This one does not provide such an opportunity.

Scheme and dimensions taken from the finished wall horizontal bar

Despite the shortcomings, the above construction is repeated many times. It is simple, reliable, takes up little space, and therefore popular. The dimensions are slightly adjusted, leaving the pipe diameters and the thickness of the corners unchanged or increasing the wall thickness. An example is in the photo below.

This is a homemade version, made according to the factory model.

There is an even simpler design. This is only one crossbar, on which you can only pull yourself up. But this design is one of the most compact. It can be hung over the doorway and it will not interfere, will not attract attention. It makes sense to make a horizontal bar of this design if there is no place to accommodate a more serious projectile or there is a Swedish wall.

Sizes - for small growth

Overdoor structures are among the most compact. Less space is occupied only by those that are installed in a doorway or between two closely spaced walls (here, in general, only a pipe is needed, under which special fasteners are made).

Horizontal bars for the yard

More complex structures are usually placed in the yard: there is no need to save space, so they make the model as comfortable as possible.

At the same time, it is worth approaching the issue in a balanced way: to make the horizontal bar reliable, you need pipes with a solid wall thickness, and they are not cheap.

Therefore, since there are already racks and crossbars, you can make a Swedish wall and a swing mount - so that both children can play and adults can train.

Horizontal bar for the street: drawing with dimensions

Please note that the racks are connected in pairs with jumpers. The jumper is buried in the ground and serves to stabilize the position under lateral loads. What else to pay attention to is the depth to which the pillars are buried.

If the earth is prone to heaving (clay and loam), it is advisable to dig in below the freezing depth. In central Russia, this is about 120-130 cm. In order for the racks to stand securely, pieces of pipes can be welded perpendicularly to the underground part.

This will complicate the installation, but the poles will definitely not loosen.

How to make a horizontal bar for an apartment with your own hands - photo report

Even for the most complex wall model, 2-2.5 meters of a profile pipe and about 1.5 meters of a round one are enough. To make a horizontal bar for the house with your own hands, a sheet with the selected model and dimensions is pre-printed.

For the frame, a profiled metal pipe 20 * 30 * 3 mm was used, for the crossbar and "handles" - the remainder of the curtain rod for Soviet-era curtains. The pipe is thin, but still holds up.

To begin with, with the help of a grinder, I sawed the profile pipe into pieces of the desired length.

Beginning - we cut the pipes into pieces of the desired length, cut down the angle of the stops

There are no corner stops on the diagram, they are made “by eye”. The angle is about 50°. Then it's up to the small thing - to cook. With the help of an inverter welding machine, this is not too difficult. Moreover, the pipe has a thick wall: 3 mm is cooked normally.

It turned out two halves of the frame in the form of the letter "G" - they must be connected with jumpers. To make the frame racks parallel, we use strips that fix the parts at the same distance. At the same time, we weld handles from stainless steel pipe scraps below, which we will hold on to when pumping the press.

To ensure that the distance between the racks is the same, we use slats

For a tight fit between a round pipe and a rectangular one, a semicircle was cut out in the stand by a grinder. I had to finish with a file, but the fit is very good. It remains to boil.

Making the junction of a round and rectangular pipe

To weld handles for a narrow grip to a round pipe, we also form recesses in pipe segments. It is more difficult to cook them - the thickness of the pipe is much less. And in general, other electrodes are used for welding stainless steel. Due to lack of experience, the seams turned out to be ugly, but without obvious marriage.

Next, you need to bend the pipe around the edges. To do this, we insert a rod of a smaller diameter into the pipe, take a gas burner, heat up the bend, bending a little. Bend to 30°. To do this, I drew an angle on the floor with chalk, bending it against the drawn lines.

Add "holds" for a narrow grip, bend and can be painted

We put an emery wheel on the grinder, we clean the places of welding. Then, in a circle with a smaller grain, we remove plaque from the entire structure, additionally grinding the seams. Ready for painting. Paint in a spray can, applied in three layers.

Hooks for hanging the horizontal bar also made by hand

For wall mounting, hooks are made from a 15 * 4 mm metal strip. It was not easy to bend - holding a whole piece in tongs, we managed to bend it on both sides. The finished hooks were cut to the desired length and holes were drilled for the dowels. A drill with a diameter of 8 mm was used, drilled 12 mm under the fastener caps. The hooks are cleaned and painted with the same paint.

Before you make a horizontal bar, decide on the place where you will hang it. Not all spouses will calmly accept such an innovation ... Homemade horizontal bar 3 in 1 on the wall in two working positions

Almost everything is ready. It remains to make pillows under the shoulders. For the base, pieces of plywood were taken, on them - thin furniture foam rubber in two layers, covered with eco-leather with holes. Staples and a construction stapler were used to fasten the leatherette, but you can also use furniture nails if there is no stapler.

Making shoulder pillows

According to operating experience: hooks on the wall should be made longer, under three dowels at least. And one more thing: the design has been finalized - the handles for a narrow grip in the version shown in the picture are inconvenient, so another crossbar is welded on.

Crossbar added

A homemade homemade horizontal bar turned out to be heavy - 19.8 kg, but in this form it is more convenient.

In conclusion, a small entertaining video prank "Grandfather punishes turnstiles."

Source: http://stroychik.ru/raznoe/turnik-svoimi-rukami

Horizontal bar home: buy or make it yourself?

The horizontal bar is a universal sports equipment, on which you can effectively work out several major muscle groups at once and increase overall strength indicators.

Bodyweight training is an effective, popular and affordable training technique.

Having installed the horizontal bar at home, you can successfully train at home by performing various exercises with your own weight on the horizontal bar.

Types of horizontal bars

Depending on the design and method of fastening, the following types of horizontal bars are distinguished:

wall horizontal bar

The wall horizontal bar can only be mounted on a reliable wall made of concrete or brick. Install such a horizontal bar on thin wooden or plasterboard partitions it is forbidden.

Corner wall horizontal bar

Overdoor horizontal bar

The horizontal bar is mounted above a doorway. Thus, during the performance of various exercises, the body and legs of the trainee can go into the doorway.

Horizontal bar in the doorway

The most popular option for home horizontal bars. For training, a doorway is used, so that the trainee has enough space both in front and behind. However, such horizontal bars are often unreliable.

Although the horizontal bar in the doorway is able to withstand 130 - 150 kg, it is not recommended to perform complex exercises on them, in particular exercises in the upside down position. Due to the fact that both ends of the horizontal bar go deep into the door frame, it is sometimes difficult to assess the real reliability of the horizontal bar.

Over time, the tree may deform, and the reliability of the structure will decrease. Mounting directly to a concrete or brick wall is more secure than to a door frame.

There are two types of horizontal bars in the doorway:

Spacer horizontal bar

Sliding horizontal bar

It is fixed by means of retractable telescopic tubes. It is fastened with anchor bolts, therefore it is considered more reliable than spacer.

Horizontal bar in the opening between two walls

An analogue of the horizontal bar in the doorway, but the horizontal bar is not attached to the door frame, but directly to the walls. Not all rooms have the possibility for such an installation, but if there is such an opportunity, then this is a great place for the horizontal bar.

ceiling horizontal bar

Ceiling-mounted horizontal bars are in many ways similar to wall-mounted horizontal bars.

Ceiling horizontal bars come in a variety of designs, from the simplest to more complex, implying the possibility of pulling up with different grips.

Horizontal bar combined with bars

An effective complex projectile that allows you to significantly expand your training opportunities by adding push-ups on the uneven bars to pull-ups.

What can a horizontal bar be made of

Horizontal bar and bars-press on their own in a private house or apartment

For serious and full-fledged home workouts, the best option is to get a combined horizontal bar that includes bars and a back support for pumping the press.

If desired, you can always use the services of a specialist in order to cut or weld the metal parts of the horizontal bar. You can contact the metalworking shop for cutting and welding metal.

The cost of the material is minimal ($ 25-30 - 900-1000 rubles) compared to the finished product in a sports store, so it makes sense to work hard and make a horizontal bar yourself.

A simple drawing for a horizontal bar with bars is shown in the photo below.

To create a horizontal bar you will need

1. Steel pipe with a diameter of 30mm:

750 mm - 1pc;

150mm - 6 pcs.

2. Steel profile 30 x 30 mm:

700 mm - 1 pc.

550 mm - 2 pcs.

400 mm - 2 pcs.

650 mm - 2 pcs.

550 mm - 1 pc.

3. Steel plate:

140x120x5 mm - 1 pc.

300x70x5 mm. - 2 pcs.

It is necessary to weld all the prepared metal parts into the structure shown in the drawing. After that, it is desirable to paint the structure. Then you can start creating a soft back and armrests.

To do this, you will need chipboard, or plywood, rubber handles for the horizontal bar and bars (you can buy it on the Internet, or use electrical tape instead, wrapping the places you have to tackle so that the horizontal bar does not slip out of your hands), foam rubber and a couple of square meters of leatherette .

From chipboard, you need to cut out boards that are suitable in shape and size for the back and armrests, then glue the layer of foam rubber and wrap it with a leatherette sheet, which can be fixed with Moment glue, or with a powerful stapler, if any.

This design weighs about 15 kg. If desired, you can increase the width of the grip, or other parameters.

Such a horizontal bar is made removable and implies the possibility of fastening in two different ways: for training on uneven bars and for training on a horizontal bar.

Horizontal bar in the doorway

If the work with metal described above seems too complicated, you can limit yourself to the simplest option - to make a home horizontal bar in the doorway.

There is another way to fix the pipe in the doorway, in which you can do without cutting the pipe.

To do this, it is necessary to attach two metal corners to the doorway, having previously drilled 4 holes in them (2 holes for fastening to the doorway and 2 for the fixing bracket that will hold the pipe stationary) in those places where the ends of the horizontal bar will be located.

The corners must be positioned in such a way that the pipe can be placed on the corners and fixed in a stable position. The pipe is fixed with special fixing brackets with threads for nuts at the ends (you can buy it on the building materials market). This method of mounting the horizontal bar is the simplest and requires minimal metal work.

There are other ways to fix the horizontal bar in the doorway, for example, fixing the pipe in the slot of the beam attached to the wall.

How to make a bench for the bench, we suggest reading here.

There are many proven ways to organize a horizontal bar at home, ranging from the simplest to the more complex. A person who wants to train with his own weight on the horizontal bar and parallel bars has the opportunity to create the necessary equipment on his own and install them at home.

With a minimum budget and a competent approach, you can make a high-quality horizontal bar that is not inferior to sports equipment sold in specialized stores.

The video shows the simplest budgetary way to create a home horizontal bar for an adult and a child.

They say that sometimes it is useful to hang on the horizontal bar to stretch the spine.
Therefore, I decided to install a horizontal bar in the apartment so that I could hang more often. I chose for a long time and thought for a long time how to fix it - I was afraid to make a mistake, because. there was no experience in this matter.

The only thing that I definitely understood in the process of thinking was that it should be hung on the balcony. The rest, I didn’t even know how and what to do. When I got to work, I discovered some interesting details.

But first - in what I am again unfairly lucky here.

Almost everything you need can be found on sale.

I didn’t say anything to anyone, and therefore no one dissuaded me, and didn’t interfere.

He put aside all the affairs and slowly, sparing no time, devoted several days (evenings) to this matter.

Well, Zarathustra... forgave me again.

I chose for a long time, and for a long time I could not decide. There was an idea to make the horizontal bar with your own hands. It seems that there is not much work here - take a piece of a water pipe and fix it somehow on the wall ... Also, in the garage there was a chrome-plated back from a metal bed - also, why not? I also visited the idea to buy a neck from the bar. I also thought about the Swedish ladder and so on. When I finally realized that I only need to hang a horizontal bar on the balcony (because of the high ceiling and fresh air, which is more important than many people think), a solution began to mature and I began to explore online stores.

In general, the first "raids" were made a long time ago. As it seemed to me then - out of idle curiosity. I looked at what was on sale, figured it out and ... forgot for several months. Then he returned to these thoughts again, again looked for what he had in online stores, and again threw it away. Seeing a horizontal bar on the street, he approached it, measured it with his hands (wider, narrower), tried to hang ...

In general, the final choice was this - a ready-made (and not home-made) simple horizontal bar, without any chips, such as crossbars, overlays or notches (see photo).

This bar has a powder coating - moderately smooth. It is made of very thick metal, without the slightest hint that it will "play", stagger, bend, etc. The design and coating gives the impression of reliability and durability. I like it. :) And I also realized (already when I bought it) that I myself could hardly do something like that.

Why exactly on the balcony?

Not only because there Fresh air, which plays a decisive role for the body (maybe even more important than everything else). The fact is that the balcony is the only place in the apartment where higher ceiling. This means that the horizontal bar itself can be hung so high that it will be possible not to bend your knees when you hang on it.

And of course - you need to hang it over the balcony doorway so that you can not only hang, but also freely dangle your legs. :)

Fastening the horizontal bar - the choice of method

It was the most difficult, because. I was afraid that I would not calculate the fasteners and the horizontal bar would tear out of the wall (and I would be crippled). Therefore, I studied all possible options for a long time. The situation was aggravated by the fact that in the purchased horizontal bar in the upper part there were only two holes for fastening (on the right and on the left) - after all, it was on them that the main load would fall. The bottom holes play only a supporting role. The hole diameter is 10 mm, and it seemed to me that this was small. Moreover, when you hang, it would be nice to swing from side to side. In this case, at some point, almost all the weight will fall on one side (that is, in fact, on one bolt / stud).

In addition, the wall where the horizontal bar was to be fixed is made of hollow brick, and the bottom holes rest against a concrete beam (which runs above the window and above the balcony door). Those. the main load falls on the hollow brick (which is on top), but the lower holes (which are in the concrete beam) can be made somehow shallow (later it became clear that drilling the lower holes into the beam would not work, but more on that below).

In general, having studied ordinary plastic dowels, I realized that I do not trust them, despite the fact that they are quite long and there are quite high quality ones. For about the same reason, for the top holes, I discarded the anchor bolts. It is not known in which part of the brick its end will fall (and if in the cavity?), And it is not known how the brick will behave in general.

Although for bottom, supporting mounts, a regular anchor seems to be the best option.

In the process of searching for options, I came across the so-called. " chemical anchor"(it is also sometimes called" chemical dowel"and in English it would be" injection anchor"). This is a very interesting option, especially for bricks with cavities. The hole is filled with a special mixture (mixing nozzles "nozzles" on the cylinder are disposable!), Which then envelops, for example, a pin inserted all the way into the hole, fills the entire hole, squeezes out a little and, in this form, it freezes.Later, I had the opportunity to touch this mixture after solidification - it becomes hard as a stone (more on this below). with cavities a special mesh tube / sleeve is provided (plugged at one end), which is previously inserted into the hole before the mixture is supplied and keeps the mixture from being squeezed into the cavity inside the brick (although it is still partially squeezed through the mesh cells, but not much, and this is only additional reinforces the whole structure). On the Internet you can find a lot of information, pictures and even videos on chemical anchors.

For some reason, I could not immediately find these mesh sleeves or fixing tubes for a chemical anchor (I found it later, when it was already too late), and this influenced the final choice of the method of fastening in another, even more reliable way.

So the decision was made- the last option, on which he stopped - to break through the main wall (from the balcony to the room) and put long studs see through(later I regretted that I gave up so easily, but in the end everything turned out for the better - more on that below).

By the way, my balcony is narrow, and the drill with a perforator rested with its back against the window opposite (just in the deaf, as luck would have it) - it didn’t fit. I was already going to disassemble the window and remove the glass, but then a brilliant idea dawned on me :), and I punched a part of the hole with a short drill of the same diameter, after which I inserted the main long drill into this hole, put a puncher on it (there was just enough space, even there was still a couple of centimeters between the puncher handle and the balcony glass) and finished the hole started with a short drill.

BY THE WAY. When I had already punched holes with a long drill and prepared everything, then in one of the hardware stores I saw on sale mesh fixatives for chemical anchors (and the mixture itself in the cylinder, as well as an example of fastening in brick on the stand - there I touched it, feeling the stone mixture hardness). But it was already too late :). However, there was nothing much to regret, because. a cylinder with a mixture of a chemical anchor costs about $ 20, mesh retainers-tubes are also not very cheap and ... although it's a pity :) - I would still like to try this technology in practice.

In general, everything was decided, the holes were punched and I began to study the studs.

hairpins

When I came to the nearest hardware store to see what they were like, I again began to have doubts. Will the M10 threaded stud hold the required load?

And then I again got into the Internet (having copied the address of the supplier's website from the label of the store hairpin).

Turns out Almost all studs that are sold in hardware stores have steel strength class 4.

Studs "from the store" most likely have a steel strength class of - 4.

Usually the strength class is indicated by two numbers with a dot between them (eg "4.8"). The first number is strength, the second is "fluidity". For details I send to the search engine :). Let me just say that strength class 4 means that the ultimate tensile load is 40kgf / mm 2 (for calculations total ultimate strength, you may also need the formula for the area of \u200b\u200bthe circle S \u003d r 2, where \u003d 3.14; r=radius from which you must remember to subtract the thread).

I managed to find a company on the Internet that sold such studs but made of steel with a strength class of 8 (twice as much as a regular stud!). Fortunately, they were even coated - galvanized. Such a hairpin has a special yellow mark on the end. Costs $4 (for 2 meters). That's what I bought.

BY THE WAY At the same company where I got the stud, they told me that they have studs with a strength class of 10 (!), unfortunately without a coating. But they were not there at that moment, and they did not want to wait. In addition, the seller assured me that such studs are used only where there are already completely prohibitive loads. Later, when everything was already done, I learned that it was possible to look for such studs in auto shops.

In the same place I bought huge wide washers with a hole of 16 mm from thick steel, and a little smaller - with a hole diameter of 10 mm.

Installing a horizontal bar

Bar height

The height was selected according to the street horizontal bars, which were not too high and not too low. It was important not to raise your horizontal bar too high, because if you suddenly want to pull yourself up (and not just hang), then it is advisable not to beat your head against the ceiling.

In practice, this resulted in something like the following. If you stand under the horizontal bar on a full sole (in slippers) and raise your hands ( both!) straight up effortlessly, then about 5 cm remains from the fingertips of the open palms to the horizontal bar. If, continuing to stand on full soles, start stretching your fingers to the horizontal bar, then almost at the maximum stretching your arms up, just touch the middle of the crossbar with your fingertips.

At the same time, if you rest your head against the ceiling opposite the horizontal bar, then the axis of the crossbar is opposite the dimple under the Adam's apple at the bottom of the neck (at the top of the chest).

If pulling up is important for someone in the first place, then you can hang the horizontal bar a little lower (by 5 centimeters, for example) in order to rise higher in the upper position, but then in the lower position you will have to bend your knees a little so as not to touch the floor. It was important for me to hang well :) without touching the floor - so as to stretch the spine as much as possible, so I chose the option as high as possible without prejudice to the case if you suddenly want to pull yourself up once.

In numbers, my version looks like this: from the top edge of the crossbar (not the axis, but the edge!) To the ceiling - exactly 30 cm.

Top holes

The top holes are the most important. The upper mounts, in fact, account for the entire load. That's why I was looking for a hairpin with high strength class, and that is why he was significantly reinsured by installing through studs through the entire wall. However, if I chose the option with a chemical anchor, then this would also be quite reliable.

You need to start drilling through holes, of course, from the side of the horizontal bar.

I had to take out two planks of lining to expose the main wall from the side of the balcony at the attachment points. The wall was crooked, and, in the future, washers had to be placed here and there.

From the side of the apartment - plaster and wallpaper. Initially, my plans were to put a metal bar between the upper holes from the side of the apartment, but then I decided to get by with the huge washers I bought earlier. This made it possible to make small cuts on the wallpaper, carefully remove a small area of plaster to the brick, insert the huge thick washers mentioned above and, turning the notched wallpaper back, hide the attachment point as much as possible, leaving only the protruding ends of the studs.

It is very important to set the inlets (on the side where the horizontal bar itself is) exactly in level. I used a long level (1m long). First, I outlined one upper hole (drilling to a depth of about 10 cm), attached a horizontal bar, put a level on it, and with a felt-tip pen put a dot in front of the second upper hole. Due to the fact that it is not easy to maintain accuracy with a puncher in a crushed brick, some inclination nevertheless happened - one hole turned out to be 2 mm lower. But hanging on the horizontal bar, this, fortunately, was not felt.

The fact that at the exit I hit the top beam inside the apartment ( which I didn't suspect when I started drilling) and didn't hit the rebar in it in both holes, when I drilled, it only means that I just lucky.

In order not to risk damage to the reinforcement in the beam, the best option would still be - CHEMICAL ANCHORS!

So, first you need to insert the hairpin, and then cut it off.

It is better to cut the stud for each through hole separately. Because if you make them the same length, focusing on one of the holes, then the piece of the stud for the second hole may be shorter / longer, since the wall is not of the same thickness.

The diameter of the drill is 10mm (and the stud is M10). Therefore, it is inserted with difficulty. I had to hammer with a heavy hammer, striking gently at the protruding end (then I had to carefully file the ends of the hairpin deformed by the hammer with a grinder).

Inserted from the inside (from the side of the room). Before that, I walked several times with a drill and inserted a vacuum cleaner into the hole.

Since there was another beam on the inner side of the wall (fortunately, it was drilled relatively easily, because the drill was fixed with a hole that he had previously made in the brick), I had to additionally go through this inner beam with a short drill with a diameter of 12 mm, and then once again "clean" the entire hole with a 10 mm long drill.

Every cloud has a silver lining - this internal beam finally removed the question of the need to install a reinforcing metal bar between the holes on the reverse side (from the side of the apartment), since the strength of this beam made it possible to get by with large washers and smaller ones on top of them (see photo of the washers above).

bottom holes

The lower holes, although they do not carry the main load, but only support the structure, are also very important.

Unfortunately, they ended up opposite the beam and when I started drilling them, it turned out that they hit exactly opposite the reinforcement (see photo below).

After that, I had a break in the process for a week - I consulted with whomever I could, incl. with friends, experts and the Internet :). Opinions were different (to interrupt the reinforcement or not), but in the end he settled on the fact that this is extremely dangerous.

ATTENTION! Reinforcement in beams (especially in long ones) should never be touched!

For a couple of days I thought about how to solve the problem and settled on the fact that it was necessary to drill additional holes in the horizontal bar structure that would pass over the beam, but not opposite the brick, but into the cement joint between the brick and the beam. This meant that you need to mark holes local, because the seam is not even. As a result, one of the lower holes turned out to be slightly higher, the second - lower. I painted over the edges of the hole in the horizontal bar with paint so that they would not rust.

Additional holes are marked in place - opposite the seams. The edges of the holes are painted over with paint.

The photo below shows how the assembled horizontal bar looks like after drilling an additional hole opposite the cement joint (in which the anchor holds better than in a hollow brick).

In no case should the nuts be overtightened - it is enough to tighten with a little effort, because. there is no need for a strong tightening, and this can be badly reflected on a long jumper.

Everything is for the sim.

The main conclusion is that it is best to hang the horizontal bar on chemical anchors.

A simple crossbar, which is fastened by surprise in a small opening (as a rule, from wall to wall should be from 60 to 180 cm). The doorway is unlikely to fit (either you block the passage, or, pulling yourself up, you will beat your head against the top of the door frame), but the corridor is just right. The advantage is that you do not need to drill the walls. Withstands up to 150 kg.

Wall

A standard wall bar is attached to the wall with four anchor bolts and can withstand at least 200 kg. It can be either a regular crossbar for a shoulder-width grip, or a sophisticated design with additional handles for a wide grip and a narrow parallel grip. It is often equipped with eyelets so that you can hang a pear, a load block system or hook a harness.

Wall mounted with bars

This design is not fixed tightly to the wall. Two pairs of hooks are attached to the wall: higher and lower. By turning the simulator to the right side and hanging it on the upper hooks, you get a wall horizontal bar for different types of grips.

Turning it on the other side and hanging it on hooks lower, you have full fun on the uneven bars.

Ceiling

Such a horizontal bar will fit in the case when all the walls are disguised with cabinets, hung with paintings or made of foam. The ceiling is a thing, as a rule, strong, and a horizontal bar is attached to it.

It can be either a simple crossbar or a complex design with handles for both a regular, wide, and narrow parallel grip.

Expert: Kirill Bily, General Director of the Ideal Horizontal Bar, idealturnik.ru

Nuances

1. The ideal wall for mounting the horizontal bar is concrete or brick. A thin interior partition, foam blocks, drywall - will not work.

2. The height from the crossbar to the ceiling should be at least 30 cm, so that during pull-ups you do not hit the top of your head. If the ceiling height allows, hang the horizontal bar so that your fingertips almost touch the bar when you are on your toes. You will have to jump off a horizontal bar that is too high every time, and this is bad for the joints, especially when you work out with weights.

3. Pay attention to the fact that the grip points on the horizontal bar are covered with a special non-slip paint.

4. If you have virgin palms, take pity on them and decorate the horizontal bar with soft neoprene handles. “Gripadas” also help out - athletic gloves-linings that protect the palms from athletic calluses.

home > Food production

How to organize a horizontal bar at home. How to install a wall horizontal bar at home? How to fix the horizontal bar on trees tips

Types of home trainer

How to make a simulator yourself?

How to choose the right horizontal bar?

How to install a horizontal bar in a doorway?

Spacer Model Attachment

How is a horizontal bar or crossbar attached to plasterboard walls?

Pros and cons of the simulator

What exercises can be done?

How to install a horizontal bar at home?

Varieties of home horizontal bars, their advantages and disadvantages

1. Wall horizontal bar

Making a horizontal bar in a doorway

Ceiling horizontal bar in the apartment: types and description of fastening

Horizontal bar in the apartment

Types of home horizontal bars

Mounting the horizontal bar on the ceiling

We will need

Do-it-yourself hanging horizontal bar

We make a horizontal bar

Hang a shelf, picture, horizontal bar

✓ How to hang a shelf on a plasterboard wall

✓ Concrete and brick wall

✓ Wood mount

wall horizontal bar

Corner wall horizontal bar

Overdoor horizontal bar

Horizontal bar in the doorway

Spacer horizontal bar

Sliding horizontal bar

Horizontal bar in the opening between two walls

ceiling horizontal bar

Horizontal bar combined with bars

What can a horizontal bar be made of

Horizontal bar and bars-press on their own in a private house or apartment

To create a horizontal bar you will need

Horizontal bar in the doorway

To get started you will need:

Product unpacking

A few words about the assembly of products ..

Mounting location marking

Choosing fasteners

Dowel bolts:

Anchor bolts

We drill holes very carefully!

Fastening with dowels:

Installation with anchors

Epilogue

Spacer horizontal bar: description

Right projectile

Horizontal bar spacer for home

What are the models?

How to properly fix the horizontal bar between the walls

Do-it-yourself home horizontal bar: drawings, diagrams, photos

Types of horizontal bars

For home (apartment)

On the street

Material selection

Schemes and dimensions

wall models

Horizontal bars for the yard

How to make a horizontal bar for an apartment with your own hands - photo report

Horizontal bar home: buy or make it yourself?

Types of horizontal bars

wall horizontal bar

Corner wall horizontal bar

Overdoor horizontal bar

Horizontal bar in the doorway

Spacer horizontal bar

Sliding horizontal bar

Horizontal bar in the opening between two walls

ceiling horizontal bar

Horizontal bar combined with bars

What can a horizontal bar be made of

Horizontal bar and bars-press on their own in a private house or apartment

To create a horizontal bar you will need

Horizontal bar in the doorway

Why exactly on the balcony?

Fastening the horizontal bar - the choice of method