Insert a plastic window in the house with your own hands. Technology of self-installation of pvc windows

In most cases, window sills have standard parameters with the necessary margin, they are adjusted during installation to fit the dimensions of a certain opening. These actions are performed using a grinder (a hacksaw with small teeth is also suitable) and a jigsaw.

Then the trimmed part is adjusted in accordance with the substitution profile design: it is set exactly level - according to the same method as the window. As for the plugs on the window sill, it is preferable to install them so that they fit into the opening in the wall. To fix them, it is recommended to use a special glue, and not rely on silicone and acrylic compounds.

Watch another video that tells about the features of self-installation of PVC windows:

The design of the window sill should be placed evenly so that a cup filled with water can be placed on the surface without splashing. Make sure that the window sill does not change position even with excessive pressure.

It happens that the window sill is mounted with a slight slope (less than three degrees in the direction of the street). The slope prevents the accumulation of condensate on the windows, thanks to which the water flows to the ground.

Having finished the adjustment and fastening, proceed to foaming and seal the space under the window sill by placing a load on top so that the foam does not lift the structure. 24 hours after the foam has completely solidified, the excess is removed with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation, a cavity appears between its upper part and the frame. It is filled with a silicone mixture, but keep in mind that the silicone will darken over time due to the formation of mold, which will spoil the look of the white euro window. Try to avoid the formation of such a defect at the installation stage. Before mounting the plastic profile, screw Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet metal. Such elements will make the process of setting the window sill structure easier.

Installation of slopes with platbands

From the inside of the window, wooden rails are installed on self-tapping screws 9.5 cm long, controlling their location at a level with a square.

The next step is the installation of the initial profile, which has a U-shaped configuration, on mini-screws screwed directly into the frame. This profile is intended for inserting slopes, when installing it, you need to be especially careful when combining its outer edges.

A profile similar to the letter F is attached with a stapler. Its groove must match the groove of the previous one; they will hold the slopes.

After the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profile, slopes are installed in them.

The final step is the sequential installation of platbands: one at the top and two on the sides. To ensure mutual contact, their edges are cut at 45 degrees.

Adjustment of fittings

To adjust the sashes, the hexagons located next to the hinges are used. To do this, use a six-sided bit or adjust the flaps with a small wrench. Due to this, during their rotation, a position is created in which the flaps can be easily closed and opened without damaging other components of the system. The flaps must not open and close randomly, their position must remain stable.

Often, during manipulations with the sashes, there is a strong contact with the locking fittings, which is accompanied by characteristic sounds. The problem can be solved by unscrewing the self-tapping screw that fixes a certain fitting element, shifting the latter by 5-10 mm.

Installation of ebbs

In most cases, ebbs are mounted at the end of all installation manipulations. It is recommended to fix them directly under the window: thanks to this, you will prevent moisture from entering the gaps between the ebbs and the frame. But in some cases this is impossible to do, and the tide is attached to the frame with miniature iron screws 0.4 cm in diameter and 0.9 cm long.

Let's calculate the costs - these are the labor and financial costs of the installation itself.

The technique of self-installation of a window involves two main types of work: the dismantling of an existing window and the installation of a new one. In order to remove the old window, it will take from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Installation of a new double-glazed window with average dimensions will take about a couple of hours.

On average, it takes 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one double-glazed window. Working in this rhythm, you can install several windows at once in one day.

Thanks to do-it-yourself glazing, you can save on the services of specialists, because professionals require payment in the amount of 2-4 thousand rubles. - for glazing one opening. When ordering this service from any company, you can spend even more if the prices are formed as a percentage of the price of double-glazed windows (from 10 to 40%). And if you do everything yourself in accordance with the step-by-step instructions, you will get not only savings, but also confidence in the quality of the work performed.

Does it make sense to mount windows with your own hands

Self-assembly of plastic profiles is not as difficult as it seems. Almost all double-glazed windows have a modular design that does not involve the assembly of individual elements and is almost ready for installation. In order to insert and secure them in the opening, it is not necessary to be a professional; expensive tools are not required for this.

But please note that the installation is carried out under your responsibility - this means that you will have to take measurements and purchase materials yourself.

The manufacturer's warranty will apply exclusively to double-glazed windows and fittings. The person who installed the window will be responsible for the quality of installation work, the tightness of the seams, the correct location of the structures and the performance of the window system.

If you use the services of an installation company, the guarantee for the work performed and consumables will be from 1 to 5 years.

But if you have the time and desire to install the plastic window yourself, do not be afraid: you will cope with this task if you follow the step-by-step instructions. You will be able to mount the glazing yourself, enlisting the help of one of your relatives or friends so that you are given the tools.

You do not have to pay professionals, because their services are not cheap, and the work on installing a new window will not last much longer than if it were done by specialists.

Another detailed video on how to properly install a plastic window:

Common Mistakes

Beginners installing plastic double-glazed windows for the first time often make the same mistakes. Such shortcomings are not critical, but can affect the service life and ease of use of the window system.

1. The window profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, thereby opening the way for intruders to enter the house. To get into the room, unauthorized persons only need to remove the glazing beads, pulling out the double-glazed window will not take them much time and will not require much effort.
2. Installation is not always performed correctly, as is, without checking or correcting the level; This results in design failures.
3. When sealing cracks with building foam, they ignore the instructions attached to it. Many do not even suspect that the foam is destroyed by the action of sunlight, and this is stated in the instructions. To maintain the tightness of the window system, the foamed slots must be closed with a finishing material.
4. The double-glazed window is fixed exclusively with mounting foam without additional fasteners in the opening. A similar mistake, if an opening with a quarter, can cause cracks on the slopes, due to the fact that the foam cannot provide full fixation of the frame, and when it shifts, it will begin to break the slopes. A double-glazed window installed in an opening without a quarter, over time, under the influence of vibration and other influences, may fall out altogether.

Read about: the main causes of fogging windows and how to deal with it.

Read about how to properly install the thermostat on the battery.

It is undesirable to use an iron cutter when dismantling any wooden structures, including a worn frame - this tool is not suitable for this work. Thin disk with a rotation speed of 7 thousand revolutions per minute. easily damaged by a knot - this is very dangerous for the performer. The use of a toothed disc should also be abandoned - for the same reason.

Until the foam has completely hardened, do not install the handle to open the sashes so that the household does not unknowingly ruin your work.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in the standard version are white, but can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

window structure

To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.

Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Training

If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, then installation with unpacking is necessary.

Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (handle turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
            • Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
            • Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
            • So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a standard window, another anchor is installed: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation as many times as necessary.

         

      6. Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. The tide also foams along the lower edge.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.

          

          Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

          

Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.

Before thinking about how to insert plastic windows with your own hands, you need to prepare a number of tools that may come in handy.

Tools

Inserting new plastic windows with your own hands involves dismantling the old window structure.

Seam sealing

For dismantling

In order to remove old frames, you may need:

• Perforator
• Nozzle - blade for perforator
• painting knife
• Chisel

For mounting

And for installation you should prepare:

• A set of drills (ten and six);
• Perforator;
• Screwdriver;
• Paint knife;
• Scissors for metal;
• Construction pistol;
• Building level;
• Sealing tape;
• A hammer;
• Pegs;
• Screwdriver;
• Vertical plumb;
• Roulette and pencil.

Opening and window preparation

• Frame first;
• Then there are the constituent elements.

When disassembling the frame, you should use a screwdriver, with which you can carefully pry and pull out all the elements. When you pull out the glazing beads, despite the fact that they all seem to you the same size, you need to number both the glazing beads themselves and the places where they are inserted.

Each glazing bead can be only 1 or 2 mm less or more than necessary, and if this difference is not noticeable during insertion, then such gaps will be visible in the finished structure.

So, the glazing beads were pulled out and numbered, the window sashes were neatly folded away, then you can start inserting plastic windows with your own hands.

Insertion process

If all dimensions are made correctly, then it will be possible to insert plastic windows with your own hands both simply and quickly.

So here is the step by step guide:

• Raise the frame and place it in the opening on special pegs, which are placed on the bottom of the opening;
• Take a level in your hands and level the frame, checking its horizontalness, but for a perfect vertical installation it is better to use a centered vertical plumb;
• It will be possible to correct the evenness of the horizontal installation with the help of wooden pegs, which cannot be subsequently removed;
• Using a pencil, mark the places for drilling on the frame for installing the frame, in the same way, in the same way - mark the corresponding points on the opening;
• Carefully pull out the frame, drill holes both in the opening and in the frame structure;
• Attach the sealing tape to the top of the frame and the sides;
• If you don’t have a tape, then give gaps of about 5 mm for “free walking”, which will later need to be foamed and silicone coated on top;
• Insert the anchors into the opening, hammer in and cut off the head with a paint knife;
• Insert the frame into the opening and fasten it to the dowels to the corresponding holes;
• The joints and gaps that remain between the frame and the slopes will need to be foamed with building foam and a gun, but you don’t need to be especially zealous, since the foam has the ability to expand, and thus can warp the structure;
• Install a butovka cord on the sides and top;
• Once again check the horizontal and vertical installation with a level and a plumb line, and if anything, slightly correct it with the help of installation dowels, this is the main thing;
• Now the final stage is the insertion of sashes and glazing beads according to the numbering;
• Remove the protective film from the plastic.

So, inserting plastic windows with your own hands was not so difficult. And so that during operation you do not have problems due to installation defects, listen to the advice of experts.

• If you forgot or were too lazy to number the glazing beads and now there are some gaps, be sure to ask for gaps;
• After installing the sashes, close and open the window. The sash should move freely, if it touches the frame, you need to adjust it;
• Check the functionality of the fittings - the work should be smooth;
• When fixing the frame on self-tapping screws, act without fanaticism, otherwise, due to the fact that you drag them, your frame will warp, and will want the best;
• The protective film must be removed immediately after installation. If this is not done immediately, then after three weeks have passed, the film may firmly stick to the frame, and then it will be difficult to dismantle it.

So, here you managed to insert plastic windows with your own hands. The main thing is to follow all the steps of the installation technology. Happy repair!

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can't argue with that.

A friend recently contacted me with the question of whether it is possible to install windows myself.

He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, just came in handy. I threw out a short plan of action for him, and decided to consider all the questions in detail on my blog.

Look for all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation of plastic windows.

Do-it-yourself technology and procedure for installing plastic windows

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Dismantling of old windows (if replacement is being made).
2. Preparation of a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Fastening fasteners to the window frame.
5. Creation of recesses in the wall in the places where the fasteners are attached.
6. Insertion and exposure of a plastic window on a horizontal and vertical level.
7. Fixing the window in the opening with the help of fasteners in the places of holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with mounting foam) of the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Slope installation.
11. Window hardware adjustment.
12. Installation of low tide from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then the installation of the ebb must be done after inserting windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and knocks the glazing bead out of the groove with light blows), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, through the window it is easy to align and install the ebb.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is mounted.

It's as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.

But before foaming, it is better to put a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the lower groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then under the window you need to put blocks to the height of the window sill in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First you need to attach fasteners to the window, on which it will hold. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal screw about 10 cm long (1 screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you insert a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fixing screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall with dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After that, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch recesses under the entire fastener plate, so that later we cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall for installing slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal again. Therefore, you should not immediately tighten the screws into the opening completely.

Alignment work is best done by two people, so that one person holds the window, and the second puts the bars for leveling. We turn to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with mounting foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a sprayer, for example). This is the only way the foam will grip the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you install the window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-weather or winter mounting foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After that, it must be closed from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with a conventional mortar, or with tile adhesive, or with a protective impervious film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

For these purposes, a jigsaw or grinder is perfect. Then you should move the window sill to the stand profile (if any) and align.

If, after leveling, there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, after removing the window sill.

If everything is fine, then a simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the window sill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it enters the opening clearly along with the plugs. The plugs are best glued to the window sill with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Useful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, after pressing down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) in order to avoid bulging upward from the mounting foam. The next day, excess foam under the windowsill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very small slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensate does not seep between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the desired length (two - to the height of the opening, the third - to the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out on mounting foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs on plastic windows

The ebb is mounted very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing plastic windows, fittings are adjusted, a mosquito net is placed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in future articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these activities.

Naturally, high-quality plastic double-glazed windows cost quite a tangible amount of money, but the cost of them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings, approximately, will be from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each self-installed double-glazed window.

Just in this article of our DIY construction and repair blog, we will consider in detail the issue of self-installation of plastic windows.

At the end of the article, you will also find a thematic video installation of plastic windows with your own hands in accordance with GOST.

Installing a plastic window - steps:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window with and without unpacking.
2. Fasteners - types of fasteners, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffuse tape, what to place where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Ebb installation - diagram, recommendations for the use of mounting foam.
6. Assembly of the window - we collect the window after unpacking.
7. Installation of a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installing slopes - installing plastic slopes with your own hands in steps, diagram.

Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The method of installation with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the double-glazed window:

- remove staples

- glass is removed from the frame and set aside in a certain place until it is installed.

After that, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances on which we will focus your attention.

Because it is this more time-consuming but safer method (for plastic double-glazed windows) of installation that we chose to write an article and, of course, it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with our own hands.

Useful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, as careless manipulation of the glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows can accidentally break during their removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, then nothing terrible will happen.

If this process is carried out without unpacking, then the removal of glasses and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fasteners previously installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for bulk windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that the use of the first technology for installing a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough theory, let's get down to practice.

The window usually consists of several parts. These parts can be deaf or be an opening sash.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing glass.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (the glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the double-glazed window) are not fully clogged and it is possible to easily dismantle them.

If, nevertheless, the glazing beads were drowned to the end at the manufacturer, it is necessary to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tapping the mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give in and begin to come out of the grooves, the plastic clamps begin to fall out, they must be assembled, since we will need them at the time of mounting the glazing beads back.

We think it’s not worth reminding that everything must be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to perform this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which weighs an average of 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, and even better, lean the double-glazed window (double-glazed windows) against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, it is necessary to slightly open it in order to gain access to the hinges.

The dismantling of the opening sash must begin with the analysis of the upper hinge.

To do this, remove the spindle (a rotating shaft inside the loop), first you need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it out, respectively, down.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, it is necessary to deviate the window slightly from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash approximately 5 cm.

After that, the sash will also be released from the second lower hinge. To perform this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fasteners.

Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed around the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between the bolts being 700 mm, and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).

Also, fasteners should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both from above and below to make the plastic window structure rigid.

Mounting types.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening with a screw on concrete.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with anchor bolt.

When installing pvc plastic windows with our own hands according to GOST, we choose the method of fastening using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fasteners, where you can not think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• slatted brick - 60 mm
• porous natural stone blocks - 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials, this is dictated by the fact that indoor humidity is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates into the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the joint is made as dense as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the joint, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when arranging assembly joints, it is always necessary to follow the principle inside is denser than outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and the bearing wall is less than 40 mm, apply PSUL, if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, as well as diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame, they are designed to protect the mounting foam from the effects of the external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the mounting seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use a diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with a diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically shown in the diagram below.

Opening preparation.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion - adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and / or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening, while the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but must be installed on bearing supports, for this you can use plastic wedges.

These wedges are installed under the corner and transom joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the folded part in practice is not always even, due to the fact that at the time of drilling it could be deformed.

After that, it is necessary to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and further in the wall.

After that, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not completely, in order to be able to align the frame.

After all the anchor fasteners have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed evenly and if everything is normal, we sink the anchor bolts and screw in the anchor, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Ebb installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is the installation of a low tide. The ebb can be ordered from the manufacturer of the window, or you can use the old one, unless of course it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use mounting foam.

During the production process, the temperature of the cylinder with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator pistol and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Mounting foam is used with gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening due to less expensive building material - such as brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have mounted the window frame and the ebb, all the external work on installing the PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and the double-glazed window.

First install the glass.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame, it would be nice if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the glazing beads on the guides and with gentle blows of the mallet seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clips).

Then you need to install the window sash, for this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must first be cut.

Then tightly attach to the stand profile, after that we align the window sill with a level and put various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensate, but in no case should it sag.

After 12 hours when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be cut off.

Useful advice!

The load was designed to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is highly undesirable that there is a gap between the window sill and the frame, if, nevertheless, it remains, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden plank to the perimeter of the window (the inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fasten with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The bar should not protrude from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, it is necessary to align the planks with a level.

After that, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer frame of the window. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping bugs, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as accurately as possible.

The next step is to install the F-profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; slopes will be placed in these grooves. At the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or scissors for iron, because this groove overlaps the top of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you are unable to fit the seams evenly, then you can smear them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands.

This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that are optimal in terms of thermal performance

- with a four-chamber window profile
- and double glazing
- as well as a reinforced front door.

By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there).

For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like all masonry, on mounting foam.

The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window.

The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam.

From the bottom on all windows from the factory there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically must be subtracted from the internal dimensions of the opening.

You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows.

In the case of a one-story country house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time, its width should be much greater than its height, or rather, its height must not exceed 50 cm).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of ​​​​glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place.

The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required.

Plus, if we are talking about two-handed installation, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation is carried out on mounting plates.

Useful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill through the metal frame inside the frame).

6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon.

This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile.

9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates.

Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone.

I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up.

3 on each side except the bottom.

Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

At the bottom of the large windows, there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.

Useful advice!

Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).

13. We pass to the front door. This is a reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing the door frame, the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output.

Useful advice!

With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know.

First - the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and it must be closed from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut.

The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude.

It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.

Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.

17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam.

And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously smeared the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.

20. Done!

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.

In this article, we will look at how to properly install plastic windows in a private brick house and first we will do all the necessary preparatory work. They include removal of the old window (if any), clearing, leveling surfaces and measurements. Let's consider everything step by step.

Step 1 Delete window.

In some cases they do not yet exist (new house) or they have already been removed. If the old structures are still standing, then we carefully remove them so as not to damage the brickwork. To do this, you need to walk around the window with a puncher using the “spatula” nozzle, then remove all fasteners in the wall, if any, and pull the window out. Nothing complicated, the main thing is not to roll the walls too hard, so as not to bother yourself with work.

Step 2 Align the walls.

In order not to suffer for hours with a future window, it is easier to perfectly align the walls. To do this, you need to take a level, attach it to the side walls and align them perfectly to zero. It will be more convenient to set beacons so that the work is more productive. Then we take the level, apply it to the wall at the bottom of the future structure and align it. The easiest way to do this is with building glue, but you can mix a solution on sand 1: 3 - it doesn’t matter, the main result is, and you can even level it with all sorts of garbage.

Step 3 measurements.

Now that we have an even rectangle, we can measure it. There are companies that will calculate the size of the window themselves according to the parameters provided. But, as the Russian proverb teaches us: "Rely on guest workers, but don't make a mistake yourself." It is best to take measurements of the window yourself. We measure the rectangle and then do the following: we recline 2 cm from the top, subtract 3 cm from the sides and 2-3 cm from the bottom. Now we have the size of the window.

If you doubt the measurements somewhere, then it is better to subtract 1 cm more - it will not be difficult to close a large gap, just a little more expensive, but it will not be easy to break bricks with a puncher to stick PVC in.

Installing a new window

Now that we have everything prepared for action, we need to clear the premises for the convenience of workers and we can begin to build a professional out of ourselves. Consider step by step how to install a plastic window with your own hands.

Step 1 We miraculously put this whole item into the window frame and hope that the manufacturer did not disappoint with the size.

Now that it's in place deepen it 1/3 outside the thickness of the wall(we deepen from the side of the street). This will significantly reduce heat loss, as well as increase the efficiency of the entire structure.

Step 2 We measure deviations.

Installation of windows in accordance with GOST is carried out with a possible deviation along the entire window by no more than 2 degrees, so you should not violate the "traditions" and do everything smoothly. We first need to hammer in wedges from all sides (a piece of wood cut at an angle) in order to jam the entire structure in the opening. After that, we take a ruler and measure the gaps so that they correspond to the calculations described above. We move it left-right, up-down, until it is where it needs to be. Then we lean the level against the plane of the window and measure its forward-backward tilt. Additionally, lateral deviations can also be measured, but if you smeared the walls evenly, then they will not be.

Step 3 Fasten with dowels.

Is everything lined up? We fasten the frame to the wall with long dowels. There are no special requirements for installing windows according to GOST for this item, since this is a technological process - to fix it so that it holds a little and can be sealed further. Therefore, we fix it as we want, so long as the frame is not damaged. The only rule is that you cannot tighten the dowels, otherwise the frame will lead (dowel length 12-16 cm). Just grab a little to the wall.

Step 4 We blow everything with mounting foam.

Windows should be installed in such a way that the foam layer is equal to the width of the window structure, without gaps, without gaps, without cracks.

Step 5 We install window shutters.

If you haven't tightened the frame anywhere and pushed everything in carefully, they will open perfectly back and forth. Otherwise, they will scribble on the frame. They scribble strongly - you have to redo it, they get it very weakly - we let them down on the mounts.

Step 6 Installation of slopes.

There is nothing supernatural here: we just take a slope and put it on the foam. First they are attached from above, then the side slopes.

Step 7 We fix the window sill.

It must be screwed to the window frame with screws (there are special places for this from below). Can be planted on building glue or foam. The second option is less desirable, since the window sill will “play” and may crack if you sit on it - the foam is not very strong.

If there are gaps somewhere, they can be sealed with a sealant of a suitable color. Installing windows in a wooden house, for example, may exclude many points of the instruction, and when installing a structure in the opening of a brick house, all points are required.

Checking work

After you fix the window, as well as during the execution of work, it is necessary to carry out periodic checks in order to avoid errors and not to redo everything completely. Let's consider in more detail.

1. After installing the structure in the frame, check the level along the bottom so that the window does not mow to the side, and only then screw it with dowels.
   
2. After every 3-4 dowels, check the deflection of the frame, since plastic is fragile, it is very easy to move it to the side, unscrew the dowel if necessary.
3. When installing insulation, the window is pressed in from the outside until it is completely hidden behind a layer of insulation plus 5 centimeters further into the wall.