Installation of iron poles. Installation of iron poles

It is impossible to imagine a country house or cottage without a fence. Whatever material it is made of, support posts are always needed for fencing. They can be made of concrete, wood, but more often developers prefer metal poles: they combine practicality and affordable price, they serve for a long time. They are easy to install on your own, knowing the basic subtleties of installation work.

Shape selection

Metal fence posts are made from ordinary steel pipes, which can have a different cross section:

• A circle;
• Rectangle;
• Square.

A pipe with a round section is the most budgetary. The length of products sold from the manufacturer is 2.5 ... 6.0 meters. Diameter of round rolled products - 57…108 mm. When choosing such supports, it is necessary to purchase stabilizing plates to make it possible and convenient to fasten the fence to the pole.

Square and rectangular pipes are more expensive, but also durable: their stiffeners provide the supports with stability under the action of loads. The wall thickness of the pipes for poles varies from 2 to 4 mm. Blanks, like round pipes, are produced in lengths of 2.5 ... 6.0 meters with minor allowances.

Rectangular and square pipes can be used for different types of fences. To choose the appropriate section size, select the appropriate span size between the supports and calculate the approximate weight of the material (fence, corrugated board, etc.)

Pipe section, mm
	1 meter	2 meters	3 meters	4 meters	5 meters	6 meters
40×40×2	709	173	72	35	16	5
40×40×3	949	231	96	46	21	6
50×50×2	1165	286	120	61	31	14
50×50×3	1615	396	167	84	43	19
60×60×2	1714	422	180	93	50	26
60×60×3	2393	589	250	129	69	35
80×80×3	4492	1110	478	252	144	82
100×100×3	7473	1851	803	430	253	152
100×100×4	9217	2283	990	529	310	185
120×120×4	13726	3339	1484	801	487	296
140×140×4	19062	4736	2069	1125	679	429

Corrosion protection methods

Metal without protection quickly corrodes and loses strength, spoiling the appearance of fence posts. To prevent this phenomenon and prolong the service life of a metal pipe, its surface is zinc-plated by hot dipping in a zinc solution. The finished surface does not react with oxygen, water and chemical compounds in the air and soil.

Another way to protect the pipe in production is to cover it with polymer films. They are applied in a thin layer on the surface of the metal. This method of isolation is effective for an almost unlimited amount of time, provided that the layer is intact.

The most reliable pipes have double protection with both zinc and polymers at the same time.

Even the highest quality protective coating is not able to withstand the elements of the earth for a long time, and soon the galvanization and the polymer layer are broken, and the metal begins to oxidize. To exclude this process, the buried part of the column must be additionally isolated from the aggressive environment.

How to process metal fence posts in the ground:

• Bituminous mastic;
• Special polymeric mastic for metal processing.

The choice is small, but these products are highly effective and inexpensive. Coating is carried out at the stage of preparation for the construction of the fence. It is necessary to allow the mastic to dry before deepening the structure. Roll materials are completely inefficient, so it makes no sense to install them in a drilled hole.

Determination of pipe length

Before purchasing pipes for installing supports, it is necessary to correctly calculate their length and quantity.

The length of the pipe for driving is calculated as follows: the height of the fence + the depth of soil freezing + 20 cm. It should be noted that the length of the pipe underground must be at least 1/3 of the height of the upper part.

Example: the height of our fence is 2.0 meters. The depth of soil freezing in the region is 1.2 meters. We get: 2.0 + 1.2 + 0.2 = 3.4 meters. This length should be our blanks.

Manufacturers sell pipes of random lengths, you can purchase a blank of the nearest size - 4.0 meters and cut it off yourself or order trimming from the seller. If there is a better offer for a longer length, for example, 10.5 meters at a low price in terms of 1 segment, we can buy a pipe and cut it into 3 parts (in our case 3.4 × 3 = 10.2 meters, we suitable pipe 10.5 meters). You should focus on the price of products and the assortment offered by the seller.

The distance between the fence posts should not exceed 2.5 meters. It is necessary to plan the location of the support pipes in advance and count their number.

Installation of metal fence posts

There are several ways to install metal fence posts:

• Driving and screwing into the ground;
• butovanie support;
• Pillar concreting;
• Combined method.

The choice of installation method depends on the type of soil and the load on the supports from the fence.

Pillar driving

Under light fences on sandy soils, poles can be driven into the ground. This will require only pipes and a sledgehammer, you should also find a head for the pipe so as not to crush the sectional surface.

Work should be done with a partner. Dig a small hole in a pre-marked place. A pipe is inserted into it, then one holds the post strictly vertically, the second clogs. After every few blows, it is necessary to check the verticality of the support.

The advantage of installation by driving in is the possibility of trouble-free dismantling of the supports.

The screwing of the posts is suitable for the installation of round pipes. To do this, 1-2 blades are welded to the lower end. Next, the support is screwed to a predetermined depth. This method is suitable for installing a permanent fence, since dismantling the pillars will be a very difficult task.

Butting of the support (dry concreting)

With heaving soils under a light fence, it is advisable to choose the installation of metal poles by bottling with large gravel and sand.

Installation algorithm:

• 1) First, corner supports and poles are mounted on which the gate and gate will be attached. For them, choose more durable pipes;
• 2) Next, install the intermediate support pipes.

How to properly dig metal fence posts:

• In the marked place, recesses are made under the supports by means of a drill. The diameter of the pits is optimally taken to be 20-40 cm, so that there is enough space for falling asleep and compacting the rubble.
• A layer of crushed stone and sand 10-15 cm is laid on the bottom of the hole.
• Install the pole, align its verticality.
• A mixture of crushed stone and sand is poured in layers into a pit of 15-20 cm, tamped and watered, each time checking the vertical of the support by level.
• When 15-20 cm remain to the surface of the earth, the top of the pit is poured with M100-M150 concrete.

When the soil is heaving, the crushed stone compensates for the pressure applied to the post and the support remains in place, the fence does not float up from the ground.

Pillar concreting

Supports are concreted for heavy fences made of profiled sheet, forged spans. The main task with such an installation is to create a reliable cushion to compensate for heaving loads so that the support remains in place all year round. In most cases, concrete pillars are used in the construction of a strip foundation for a fence.

Work progress:

1. They dig a trench under the foundation and in the designated places they take out the soil under the pole. The diameter of the hole can be 20-30 cm, depending on the size of the pipe section.
2. A pillow of crushed stone 10-15 cm is poured into the bottom of the pit and it is carefully compacted.
3. Place the formwork for the concrete base. Its walls can be laid with roofing material, which will protect the stone from excessive wetting during service and facilitate the process of formwork removal.
4. Install the frame for concreting. To create it, use longitudinal reinforcement with a periodic section of 8-10 mm in diameter, for dressing - smooth rods with a section of 6 mm. The frame can be independent for free-standing supports and connected continuously with a strip frame if a column-strip foundation is being installed under the fence.
5. Inside the frame, a metal pole is installed on the pillow and fixed with reinforcement in a strictly vertical position.
6. Concrete mortar M150-M200 is being poured.
7. After 5-7 days, the formwork can be removed and the soil can be poured into the pit, compacting it.

Combined installation method (partial concreting)

For heaving soils, you can choose the method of partial concreting of metal poles. It, like the previous method, is suitable for both strip foundations and spot installation of pillars.

1. Dig a hole to 1/2 or 2/3 of the design depth.
2. Clog the pipe to the design mark.
3. They make a crushed stone pillow under concrete 10-15 cm.
4. Put the formwork and install the frame as in the full concreting method.
5. Pouring concrete solution.
6. After 5-7 days, the formwork is removed and the pit is covered with soil.

How to paint metal fence posts

After installation, the poles can be painted. This is a necessary measure for additional protection of the metal from corrosion.

Painting with bituminous varnish

Bituminous varnish is one of the most affordable means for metal processing.

1. The pipe must be thoroughly degreased and cleaned of contaminants. If necessary, it can be washed with soapy water, then dried thoroughly.
2. Rust is removed with a metal brush and a relief is created for reliable adhesion of the composition to the base.
3. After cleaning, the pipes should be wiped with a cloth soaked in solvent.
4. You can apply bituminous varnish. If its consistency is very thick, it is diluted with white spirit. The solution is applied with a brush in 1-2 layers.

Enamel for metal

Metal paints are made into 3 groups:

• 1) Primer enamels are independent products that combine the functions of a primer and a finishing layer. Enamels are applied to a previously degreased surface in 1-2 layers. With proper application and compliance with operating conditions, the coating can serve for several years, protecting the metal from corrosion.
• 2) Ordinary enamels that require additional priming. The primer GF-021 is used as the base layer, which is applied to the metal in 1 layer. After drying, colored enamel is applied in 1-2 layers, depending on the desired color intensity.
• 3) Enamels for rust - a modern product that does not require priming and preliminary cleaning of the surface from rust. The composition neutralizes the centers of corrosion and protects the metal from subsequent oxidation.

All compounds are available for purchase at any building materials stores.

The fence will stand for a long time while retaining its original appearance if reliable supporting elements are erected. When choosing a facing material, it is important to think about the supporting details. Importantly, the posts must be securely held in the soil, take care of protection, it is important to minimize the impact of seasonal changes. Therefore, it is necessary to drill a well with a depth below the freezing of the soil.

How to drill the ground under the pillars

To make a well under the support element in really various ways. The work is carried out using several types of tools, from a simple, well-known shovel to a drilling rig equipped with a special drive. It is preliminary recommended to carry out calculations, then proceed to the task.

Why you need to drill holes for the fence

The fence consists of a facing material, a frame, support posts. To form the frame, metal square-section pipes are more often used. Occasionally, wooden posts can be used, it is important to protect them from the negative effects of the environment. It is recommended to use special antiseptic agents, wrapping materials. Wooden products, also metal, are processed. The metal profile is damaged by groundwater, periodic or constant exposure. They start a harmful process - corrosion. If the surface is damaged, the service life is significantly reduced. Properly carried out protective work increases the life of the fence at times. Repair or replacement will need to be carried out after a long time. The supports hold the weight and load of the fence, it is important to fix it as securely as possible. It is enough to deepen the intake support elements underground. Drilling is carried out with special equipment. The pit will eventually turn out to be even, the edges strong.

How to dig a hole for a post

A shovel has a place in every subsidiary farm. It is difficult to do without it in the garden, garden. Simple, affordable tool, low cost. It is really possible to dig a trench for a strip foundation, make a square hole for pouring the base of concrete pillars. It is impossible for her to make a small hole for immersing a metal pipe, a wooden column of small diameter. Especially at a depth of 100-120 centimeters, a neat hole cannot be made. only with a larger diameter, which will require additional costs when buying a concrete solution. The support part is fixed to it. Conclusion - an affordable shovel is not the best option for such a task. Regardless of what type of shovel is supposed to be used - pick-up, bayonet.

Garden drill for drilling holes for fence posts

A practical garden drill has a relatively higher cost than a shovel. A distinctive characteristic is the large weight, it is easier, faster, better to carry out processes using a tool.

A garden model may have distinctive characteristics, but the basic structural elements remain the same. There are three important components:

• drill with auger;
• lever;
• extension pipe.

There are models in which the extension pipe is strictly fixed, the length remains the same. It is advisable to consider options with an adjustable tube length. Such changes will help to form a hole of various lengths.

The assembled structure weighs 10 kg, this indicator allows you to perform the process efficiently, quickly. Using the garden option makes it possible to make a hole with a diameter of 15 centimeters, up to two meters deep. The tool comes in different diameters, the size is selected depending on which hole you need to drill.

When choosing a garden drill, it is important to pay attention to several points. Sharpening the screw, some manufacturers do not perform such manipulation, the screw is sold blunt. It is recommended to use such a tool for sandy, soft soil types. When developing clay soils or stony rocks, it is imperative to sharpen the auger beforehand. It is really possible to carry out sharpening on your own, it is enough to use a grinder or a file.

Mechanical version of drilling holes for the fence

You can perform the work as quickly as possible by using a special drill equipped with an electric or gasoline drive. The cost of the tool is very high. Making holes for the fence will turn out to be costly, although fast. An alternative option is to rent such equipment for a certain period of time.

The principle of operation is similar to the operation of a hand-held garden drill, the movement of the auger is not performed by manual action, but is started by a drive unit. The level of productivity of the device directly depends on the power of the engine. The only drawback of the installation is the high cost. If the place of work is far from electrical networks, it is advisable to use a tool with a gasoline drive. The electric motor runs softer is not limited by the amount of fuel, it works as needed. Before renting, the characteristics that affect the performance of the work are studied. An excellent option to get the job done as quickly as possible is to use a car drill. Such services are provided quite often, it will not be difficult to find a work executor. Automotive drills make it possible to make holes of great depth in a short period of time.

What diameter to drill for fence posts

Any drilling technique involves performing calculations taking into account many nuances. After completing the calculations, after planning the site, marking, you can start drilling. The supporting elements must withstand the load from the future fence, you need to know at what depth, the distance between the supports should be.

The simplest calculation option is the formula 1/3 of the height of the future fence.

With a fence height of two meters, the pipe is immersed by 70 centimeters. Often the area is characterized by closely spaced groundwater, then deepen the column more, up to 100-120 centimeters.

If the soil where the installation of the fence is planned, the sandy depth of the immersion of the support increases, it is not advisable to increase the stony depth, 80 centimeters are enough. There are requirements when forming a hole. Maximum stability is achieved when the hole is slightly larger than the support post. Too small a diameter limits the ability to pour a sufficient amount of concrete mortar. A sufficient diameter is considered to be from 15 to 30 centimeters. The distance between the posts is calculated taking into account local features, weather conditions. It is customary to make a span between the pillars of 2.5-3 meters. This distance provides maximum reliability, stability, durability of the support.

Stages of drilling a well for a fence

The pits for the supports are made independently. It is recommended to study possible equipment, expert advice. Then start doing the work. The achievement of a qualitative result is the phased implementation of the work. All work is recommended to be divided in stages. Each stage is carried out with full responsibility.

1. Markup and planning . The area is preliminarily cleared of foreign objects, vegetation, roots, marking is performed. It is recommended to prepare pegs (wooden or metal rods), building thread, laser level. The pegs are located strictly where the supporting elements are planned to be located.
2. Tool preparation . It is recommended to inspect the selected tool. The absence of tool defects is the key to a job well done. It is better to sharpen the augers, to dig a hole very quickly. The holes will be even, the edges are good when they do not crumble.
3. drilling is carried out gradually, it is recommended to remove in layers. Having reached a depth of 30-40 centimeters, some drilling difficulties are felt. This means that solid layers of soil have been reached. Now poured into the wells with water. Such manipulations are carried out to soften the soil, the work will be much easier.
4. Having formed a hole a suitable depth, the next stage begins - the installation of supporting elements. Fixing the supports in the soil can be done by bottling or pouring concrete. Subsequent work can be performed only after the concrete solution has completely hardened.

Using simple recommendations, the work is done very quickly. Independent drilling can be done at any convenient time, without adjusting to the conditions of construction teams. Among other things, this is a significant time saving, especially when using a manual garden auger.

metal fence posts

for the fence is the most common option. All types of metal fences are most often mounted on them: corrugated board, perforated panels, welded or forged sections, metal picket fence, chain-link mesh or panels made of corner and welded (perforated) mesh. They are often chosen for wooden and plastic fences. Even brick or stone supports can have a metal pipe inside.

Having a low cost, such fence posts are easy to install, durable and reliable in operation. And with proper protective treatment and timely prevention, an almost unlimited resource.

Metal fence posts: types

There are three types of section:

round pipe;

two profile options (square and rectangular).

In addition to new, you can buy used tubing (tubing) that will have sufficient strength as a metal support for the fence.

But the differences don't end there. On sale there are ready-to-install metal poles for a square fence

or round section

which have top plugs at the above-ground part and welded plates for mounting veins or sections.

It seems to be a convenient option - no need to use welding.

Particularly time-consuming and difficult for a protective top plug.

But this does not mean that factory-made metal poles are the best solution.

There are techniques and accessories that allow you to do without welding.

In order to protect the inside of the pipe from precipitation, you can use plastic plugs for round, square and rectangular pipes.

They may have a different look, but in any case, they are easy to install.

And for fastening the veins to a square post, special clamps are produced,

to which even a metal profile can be attached.

Welded mesh spans are mounted on crimp clamps for square

and for round pipes.

There are methods of direct mounting metal poles for fences with metal screws directly to the pole itself. For such fastening it is better to use a square or rectangular pipe.

But the main argument in favor of individual production of metal fence posts is the dimensions.

The length of factory products is not always suitable for the height of the fence that is needed on the site.

The most important for the strength of the fence is the underground part of the pillar. For some soils, it may be redundant, and these are extra costs. In some cases, on the contrary, it is insufficient, which will affect the reliability of the fence.

The thickness of the walls of the metal also matters for the strength of the fence.

There are standard design values ​​for the strength of structures to wind loads, depending on its height and the nature of the terrain (for each region of the country and type of relief, they are already clearly stipulated). They are also available for structures with a height of up to 5 meters.

Calculating the strength of a beam in a cut near the ground with one pinched end is not worth it - it’s difficult, but we can say that for a span of 3 m and a height of 2 m with maximum windage (profiled), a square profile 80x80x3 or a pipe of close diameter with a wall 3 is enough mm.

However, it should be borne in mind that this is the limit value. In real:

• the fence usually has the form of a closed figure, which has, as it were, supporting walls that take on part of the wind load;
• the wind rarely blows perpendicular to the plane of the fence;
• the standards are given for open areas - without vegetation and neighboring buildings;
• spans with profile veins are usually made 2 meters long, not 3 (standard factory length is 6 meters).

Therefore, for supports, a profile pipe of a smaller section is sufficient - 60x60x2.

Fence posts: how deep to dig?

There are different recommendations for the size of the underground part. For soft soils and solid spans with high windage, about 50% of the height of the aboveground part is usually advised. For heaving soils capable of "squeezing" supports out of themselves, the installation depth of the pillars should be 20-30 cm below the freezing level. And in some cases, this value may be greater than the calculated value. fence posts

For dense soils, you can limit yourself to 1/3 of the height of the above-ground part. They often do not even carry out concreting, limiting themselves to “driving” a pillar or backfilling with rubble. For loose soil, complete or partial concreting of the base of the column is carried out, increasing its bearing capacity. In most cases, with a fence height of 1.5-2 m, the depth of the underground part of 60-80 cm is sufficient.

Drilling an ordinary hole under a post is quite simple, this work is not comparable to drilling a well. However, even for such a simple operation, certain skills and abilities will be required.

When building a fence or foundation, we are faced with the fact that it is necessary to drill a hole under the pole. In such cases, it is advisable to use special tools, such as a hand drill.

How to punch a hole under the poles? Such work is always carried out during the construction of structures, buildings and fences. Pits require a special approach.

Preliminary work

Most often, a pit for installing a pole is required when installing a fence in a summer cottage. For the correct execution of the work, it is necessary to first carry out some calculations. To enclose a 60 m2 area with a fence, the poles must be installed in increments of 2.5 meters. It will be necessary to punch holes under the gate in advance, provide a hole for the front door. Gate posts should be 3 meters apart. There should be one meter to the door. After calculating, we get 45 holes.

In order to dig a hole for a post when building a fence, use an earthen drill.

At the next stage of the installation of the fence, you need to break through the pits where the poles will be installed. If you use an ordinary shovel for such work, the digging operation will take a lot of time, it will be very laborious. Approximately the same amount of time will be required to bury the holes made. To carry out such work, it is better to use a drill. This tool can be purchased at a hardware store and select the desired diameter. In order to securely fix the post in the ground, it is necessary to dig a hole so that its size is larger than the size of the post, by about 15 cm. To facilitate the drilling process, the ground is softened with water. First, a shallow hole is dug, then water is poured into it. After 30 minutes, the water will soak the ground, it will be possible to start drilling. To prevent the post from staggering, you need to dig a hole in the ground, the depth of which should be about one meter.

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Pillar preparation

Before a wooden pole is buried in the ground, it must be treated with special solutions from decay.

When the preparatory work with the pits is completed, it is necessary to process future pillars. This is only necessary if the harvested poles are made of wood, which begins to rot over time. Therefore, the bottom of the pillar, which is buried in the ground, must be processed. This operation can be carried out in different ways. For example, to burn pillars right on the fire. Such burnt wood will rot very slowly. Another option would be to treat the post with special hot bitumen. The coated post will be protected from moisture and microorganisms that destroy the tree.

Most often, a pole intended for installing a fence, in order to obtain the most durable fence, is dug into holes whose depth is more than 80 cm. After simple calculations, it can be determined that the size of all recesses will be 35 meters. It is difficult to do such work with an ordinary shovel. A hand drill will help to perform such work.

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Positive properties

This tool is used for a wide variety of jobs. It is used for drainage work, it will help to make a hole for the foundation when small buildings are being built. With the help of this tool, piles are installed under the foundation and so on.

The tool has a very simple design, so it is easy to work with it, and no specific building skills are required at all.

If the tool is made with high quality, it will last a long time.

The hand drill is very easy to disassemble, so it can be transported in the cabin, immersed in the trunk of a car.

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Applied methods

To punch a hole under the foundation, you can use special equipment. However, it will not be entirely economical, renting such cars is not cheap. Therefore, if possible, it is better to use a hand drill, the design of which is made of several parts:

1. Drilling tool of various diameters and 1 meter long.
2. Handle.
3. Extension.

During operation, the drill may become dull, and then it can be sharpened with a grinder.

The mass of such a drill reaches 10 kg. This tool allows you to drill a hole, the depth of which can reach 2.5 m. A similar drill can be bought at a specialized hardware store.

It would seem that all issues have been resolved. I bought a drill and punched holes. However, it is impossible to make holes with such a drill if the soil is sandy and the earth is clay. Even an extension cord does not help here. When turning the drill, there is no deepening into the ground. The reason for this problem lies in the sharpening of the drill. All tools that can be purchased in stores do not have any sharpening on the construction market. The conclusion is clear, it is necessary to sharpen a hand drill, which will allow you to work in any kind of soil.

The tool can be sharpened in two ways. For one of them you will need a grinder. She will quickly complete the sharpening of the drill blade. The tool will become very sharp. It will be possible to punch holes in any soil. But the grinder is not always at hand, you have to turn to another method. It will be possible to sharpen the blade with an ordinary file, but this will take a lot of time and effort.

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Hole punching

After you have dug a hole, the drill must be thoroughly cleaned of the ground so that it does not subsequently rust.

After sharpening, you can start punching holes. Perfectly sharpened blades will make it possible to work with any kind of soil. However, during the work, another pressing problem may arise. After the depth of the pit reaches 30 cm, it happens that the rotation of the drill stops. The problem that has arisen is fixed quite easily. It is necessary to pour a few liters of water into the resulting recess, then wait a couple of minutes. When the ground is wet, the hand drill will turn again with ease, descending to the required depth. After completing the digging of the required hole, the drill must be pulled out of the ground. Ordinary pulling out of the tool in this case is not enough. Extraction of a manual drill is carried out with rocking it in different directions, gradually expanding the hole.

The field of exit of the drill from the soil will become visible, how much soaked earth has stuck to the blade. It is removed before punching another hole. Usually this is easily done with an ordinary knife. To make the drilling operation faster, water can be immediately poured into several pre-made recesses. Professionals will say that punching holes with this method usually takes a quarter of an hour. When a hand drill is used, no additional tools are needed.

How to create a hand drill with your own hands? To make your own ordinary hand drill, you need to prepare several racks in advance, stock up on several blades.

Do-it-yourself drill manufacturing scheme: 1 - handle; 2 - insert; 3 - cutting nozzle; 4 - clutch; 5 - bolt with nut; 6 - cutting plates; 7 - guide rod; 8 - blade.

It is necessary to drill a series of holes in the rack to mount the blade. An ordinary grinder will help you get the required shape of the blades. It will also be a sharpening tool. The end of the rack should have a sharp tip, with which the drill will sink into the ground without any problems.

The last step in making a hand drill with your own hands is to fasten the handle. It is made from improvised materials, it can be made of rubber or plastic.

In order to protect such a tool from corrosion, it is necessary to treat it with special mixtures designed to prevent rust.

The creation of holes for fence supports is considered the most time-consuming and critical stage of construction, on which its result, appearance, strength and durability of the fence largely depend. Knowledge regarding the parameters of the holes for the supports and the tools used for this type of work will help to avoid gross errors.

Hole Options

Getting started, the wizard will have to perform some calculations and determine:

Number of poles

In order not to be mistaken at this stage, it is recommended to first calculate the width of the section. The value of this parameter should be a multiple of the length of the sides of the future fence and lie in the range from 2.5 to 3 meters. With smaller sections, the complexity and cost of work unnecessarily increase, with large ones, the fence will not be strong enough. Keep in mind that the higher the fence, the more often the posts are located.

For example:

• if the fence will have the shape of a regular rectangle with sides of 50x25m, and its height does not exceed 2 m, then it is advisable to make sections 2.5 m wide, then a total of 60 supports are needed (4 corner + 19 on each of the long sides + 9 on each of short sides)
• if one of the sections is allocated under the gate, and the gate is part of the leaf leaf, then no additional supports are required. If the gate stands separately (the most common option), then one more support is needed for it, and there will be 61 pillars in total.

Fence hole diameter

It is always wider than the support, the only exception is when the post is driven into the ground. Typically, the size of the hole is 2-2.5 times the size of the post.

With a wider well, it will be difficult to fix the support strictly perpendicular for subsequent pouring, but the skew will definitely make itself felt in the future. In addition, too much concrete mix will be needed. With an excessively narrow hole, it will be generally impossible to perform concreting with high quality.

Hole depth

The value of this parameter depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site and on the dimensions and weight of the fence itself.

Taken into account:

• soil freezing depth: the bottom of the hole should be 10 cm deeper than this mark;
• groundwater level: it is necessary to dig a hole below this value;
• climate features, wind loads, possible snow cover weight;

Fence weight and height

For light fences, poles are dug in a third of the length (that is, for a fence 2 m high, the pole must be deepened by a meter), for heavy stone and brick fences, another 20-30 cm is added. It must also be borne in mind that crushed stone should be created at the bottom of each well pillow 10 cm thick.

Tools Used

To create holes, you need a tool that can ensure the verticality of the hole, because the slightest deviation can further lead to a distortion of the section. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the desired diameter of the hole and take care to optimize the costs of effort and finances.

regular shovel

Among the advantages is the cheapness of the tool. There are many more disadvantages: it is impossible to dig a narrow hole with a shovel, and even more so to comply with the requirement of verticality. The high labor intensity of the work should also be taken into account. For these reasons, a shovel is used only when a frame is being dug under a wide square support (for example, under a concrete pillar, which will be made using the monolithic casting method).

Motobur

Using this device, powered by gasoline or electricity, you can create a hole of the desired diameter and absolutely correct geometry in just a few minutes. The rules for working with a motor drill are extremely simple: first, a hole is made with a shovel half a bayonet deep in order to remove the turf layer and mark the drilling site.

Then the engine is turned on, and the drill is put into action. It is required to hold it strictly vertically, pressing into the soil. The soil is fed up by the auger and accumulates around the hole.

Difficulties may arise when drilling on rocky ground. In order not to spoil the tool, it is necessary to work at low speeds, try to hook and lift large stones, remove the drill from the hole more often and clean it.

The only but significant drawback of a motor drill is its high cost: when it comes to building a single fence, buying a tool whose price is calculated in five figures is hardly cost-effective.

garden drill

It can be disk or screw. A disc tool is a simple device consisting of the actual drill, which is a disc curved as shown in the figure, an extension rod and a T-handle. The auger drill has a more complex design.

Due to the low cost, low weight, simplicity of design and the ability to drill holes of geometrically correct shape and the desired diameter, up to 2 meters deep, a garden drill is the most popular tool for this type of work, so we will dwell on it in more detail.

Rules for working with a garden drill

Unfortunately, a builder who decides to use this device for the first time may encounter difficulties in his work, for example, with the fact that the drill does not want to fulfill his direct duties.

There may be several reasons for this:

• Too dense soil. Plain water can make it softer. It is recommended, having drilled a hole to a shallow depth, pour a bucket of water into it and wait a bit until it soaks into the soil - it will become much easier to work. You can also try to soften the ground with a crowbar.
• Master's inexperience. When working, the drill should be held strictly vertically, removed after 2-3 turns in order to remove the soil chosen by it and, if necessary, clean the cutting edge. When turning the handle, do not put excessive pressure on it, trying to speed up drilling.
• Insufficient sharpening of the drill. Sometimes factory products are sold without sharpening, and such a tool, of course, is not able to cut off a layer of earth. Sharpen yourself with a grinder or file. Please note that the chamfer is removed from the top.
• Wrong shape of the drill. This drawback is inherent in homemade disc tools, in which the drill is two semicircles welded to an extension at an angle to each other. Be sure to check its geometry: the angle between the semicircles is 30-40 degrees.

And, finally, sometimes the master simply overestimates his physical capabilities: in hardware stores you can buy a drill with a diameter of 10 to 30 cm, but the higher this parameter, the more effort will have to be spent on rotating the handle.

In addition, it will be even more difficult to work on very dense, clay soils. For this reason, experienced builders advise using a garden drill only on light, sandy soils, provided that not too many holes are needed. Otherwise, it is better to rent a motor drill.

And one more tip: it is advisable to choose an auger drill or a disk drill model with an auger, which is located below the cutting planes. It will simplify the removal of the selected soil from the drilling zone and facilitate the work.

How to fix a pole

Before installation, it is necessary to protect the underground part of the support from moisture: wooden poles are burned with a blowtorch and treated with resin, metal ones are painted. Further, the prepared support is installed strictly vertically in the center of the hole on a sand or crushed stone cushion and fixed with spacers.

Concreting of the support can be done in two ways:

1. The traditional, "wet" method involves filling the space around the column with a concrete mixture, followed by its vibration.
   The method is used on sandy soils that are unable to accumulate a large amount of water.
2. If, on your site, the soil is clayey, like a sponge absorbing moisture, the force of frost heaving will push out the pillar along with the concrete sleeve. In this case, bottling is performed (“dry” concreting): that is, the space around the post is simply covered in layers with crushed stone. Each layer is carefully compacted.

Individual particles of crushed stone retain mobility relative to the support and each other, therefore, when the surrounding soil swells, they simply move, and the column remains motionless. In addition, a layer of crushed stone, working as a drain, removes moisture from the post.

The disadvantage of the method is that even with careful compaction, over time, the rubble sags, and the pillar loosens, so after a few months it is necessary to add rubble, and until then, further arrangement of the foundation is impossible.

When creating a light fence on soft, not prone to heaving, soil, it is possible to install pillars without concreting, by driving them into the ground: in this case, a small hole is made along the diameter of the support, a pillar is installed in it and hammered with a sledgehammer. The method requires great physical strength and experience.

If you are going to soften the soil with water to facilitate drilling, drill several holes at the same time: this will help to avoid downtime. Do not try to pull the garden drill out of the hole with a jerk, as this can hurt your back. It is better to swing it slightly, after which it will be possible to get the tool without any tension.

It is necessary to sharpen not only the end parts of the auger, but also the edges of the round plates: they are not directly involved in drilling, but by cutting the roots of plants, they will help to complete the work faster.

One last piece of advice: if this is your first time at work, try your hand at a pole hole in the most inconspicuous place, and no one will notice your mistakes. And only then, having gained experience, you can start drilling the remaining wells and do the job flawlessly.