Reproduction of currants and gooseberries by arc layers. A surprisingly simple way to propagate berry bushes in the area Propagation of gooseberries and currants

• lignified cuttings
• Horizontal layering
• By dividing the bush
• Selecting a landing site

lignified cuttings

Currants and gooseberries are propagated vegetatively, by parts of plants. The simplest and most reliable way to propagate currants is with lignified cuttings. For cuttings harvested in November. They are tied in bundles and stored in the basement in the sand or in the garden under the snow. It is important to keep the cuttings during the winter, preventing them from drying out. As soon as the earth thaws, warms up, the cuttings are planted in the ground. Annuals from lignified cuttings grow, as a rule, with one stem.

Good results in the reproduction of currants and gooseberries are also given by another method - green cuttings. But this work is done, of course, in the summer - at the end of June, beginning of July(during the period of intensive growth of shoots). Young growths - the apical parts of shoots 10-12 cm long with 2-3 internodes are cut off, preferably in the morning. The lower leaves on the cutting are removed, and the remaining ones are shortened by half to reduce moisture loss from the cutting. The best place for successful rooting of cuttings is simple film greenhouses or greenhouses. You can also use part of the area of ​​greenhouses or greenhouses in which the gardener grows cucumbers and tomatoes.

In greenhouses or greenhouses, it is easy to maintain high air humidity and optimal temperature at the soil surface. For rooting green cuttings a special substrate is prepared in advance - a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). It should retain moisture well and at the same time provide drainage and good aeration. The prepared substrate, consisting of peat and sand, is laid in an even layer of 4-5 cm on the fertile soil of a greenhouse or greenhouse.

It is best to plant cuttings in the early morning according to the scheme: 2-3 cm in a row and 5-7 cm between rows, to a substrate depth of 1.5-2 cm, but not deeper. The roots formed on the cuttings from the peat-sand substrate penetrate into the lower fertile layer, which gives them nutrition for the intensive development of the rooted cuttings. In the process of rooting, it is necessary to maintain the humidity of the air and the substrate. Cuttings are watered every day (1-2 times) from a sprayer or from a watering can with a fine strainer. To avoid rotting of the cuttings, it is necessary to monitor the humidity of the substrate, to prevent its waterlogging. It takes at least two weeks before rooting begins. After the mass rooting of the cuttings, the moisture content of the substrate is maintained at a lower level than initially, but drying out is not allowed. Rooted cuttings in late August - early September are planted in open ground for growing. Growing planting material from lignified cuttings of currants and green cuttings of currants and gooseberries is not at all difficult, and every gardener in his summer cottage can propagate valuable varieties of berry crops, fully providing himself with planting material. If there are surplus cuttings, you can, as already mentioned, sell or exchange them for seedlings of other plants you need.

For better rooting, some gardeners use a technique such as planting cuttings in potatoes. At first, potatoes protect the cut of the cutting from rotting, and later, rotting, provide the growing body with nutrients.

A promising way to propagate gooseberries and red currants - green cuttings with a part of last year's wood, the so-called combined cuttings. These cuttings can be rooted directly in open ground. At the same time, they give good results, because the plants partially replenish their water reserves from the soil with vessels in the lignified part of the cutting. This makes the combined cuttings more viable under adverse conditions.

Cuttings are started when the bulk of the lateral shoots of the current year reach a length of 10-20 cm. Two-year-old branches with many first-order green lateral shoots are taken for harvesting cuttings. The branches are cut at the base and cut into pieces under water. Below the base of the green cutting, a stump (two-year-old wood) 2-5 cm long is left. All leaves on the shoots are preserved, removing only those that interfere with planting.

A bed for rooting cuttings is arranged in a place protected from the wind, sunny and at the same time slightly shaded. The soil on it should be fertile - sod-humus or be a mixture of peat with garden soil. A layer (3-4 cm) of peat substrate mixed with river sand (1:1 by volume) is poured over such soil. Before planting, the bed is watered abundantly and only after that cuttings are planted. They are planted vertically, regardless of the angle of departure of biennial wood from the axis, placing them in rows across the beds according to the scheme 10-20x5-8 cm. At the same time, they make sure that the base of the green cutting is 3-6 cm below the soil surface; cuttings with longer shoots are planted deeper. After planting, the cuttings are watered from the sprayer.

During the first two to three weeks, planted cuttings are watered 2-5 times a day or more. If the weather is dry, hot, then the number of waterings is increased to 7. With the advent of the first roots, they are watered less frequently (2-4 times), but in large doses, and then as needed.

For better development of the root system and the aerial part, the cuttings at the beginning of growth are fed once with nitrophoska (35-40 g / bucket of water), and then twice (with an interval of 10-12 days) with ammonium nitrate or urea (35-40 g / bucket water).

It is possible to carry out only foliar top dressing with 0.1-0.5% solutions of urea or crystallin, spending 5-7 l / m². Good results are obtained by the use of organic fertilizer - watering with a 6-fold diluted infusion of slurry at the rate of 0.5 buckets / m². Such top dressing is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 10-12 days.

If the technology is followed, by autumn, seedlings 25-45 cm high with a good root system grow, which can be planted in a permanent place. If the plants have a weak growth, then they are transplanted into a school, where they grow one or two years.

• Combined cuttings can be prepared the day before planting and stored by lowering their lignified part into water. In this case, the water level should not be higher than 2-3 cm.
• To speed up the regeneration process by 3-4 days, enhance root formation and improve overall development, the cuttings are treated with an aqueous solution of heteroauxin - 50-100 mg / l. Before processing, the cuttings are tied into bundles of 20-25 pieces, the lower end of the bundle is immersed 2-4 cm into a heteroauxin solution poured into a glass or enameled container, and left in them for 12-24 hours in a dark place.
• For rooting of especially valuable varieties, an alcohol solution is used, in which 4-6 mg of heteroauxin falls on 1 ml of 50% alcohol; the cuttings are immersed in the solution and kept in it for 15 minutes.
• During the rooting period, pests can multiply on the leaves of the cuttings and various diseases develop, therefore, for their prevention and destruction of pests, plantings are sprayed with appropriate preparations.
• When weeds appear, weed the bed with cuttings.

Horizontal layering

Currants and gooseberries can be propagated by horizontal layering, without separating them from the mother bush. This method is good because it does not require special artificial conditions - greenhouses, greenhouses. To do this, in early spring, before bud break, the strongest annual shoots are chosen, as well as 2-3-year-old branches with good growth. They are carefully bent into pre-prepared grooves 8-10 cm deep. A layer of peat compost or rotted manure is poured onto the bottom of the groove and mixed with the ground. Shoots are pinned with hooks or hairpins and covered with soil.. On such a shoot, vertical shoots grow from the buds. When they reach a height of 10-12 cm, they are spudded to a height of 4-6 cm with moist soil.

After 2 weeks, re-hilling up to 7-10 cm is carried out. In the fall, when the layers take root, the branch at the base of the mother bush is cut off with a pruner and cut into a series of shoots and planted in a permanent place.

By dividing the bush

The gardener can propagate currants and gooseberries by dividing the bush to preserve this variety. The bush is carefully dug up, freeing the root system from the soil, and divide it so that each part has young roots and shoots. From this method of reproduction planting material is scarce.

Selecting a landing site

The gooseberry belongs to light-loving plants, therefore, land is allocated for it along the southwestern and western borders with neighboring plots, placing it in one row, as well as along garden paths. It tolerates light shade, but should not be cultivated between rows of fruit trees. In addition, traces of pesticides used to spray fruit trees may remain on gooseberry fruits. The best for gooseberries are well-lit, elevated areas on the southwestern slopes with a slope of no more than 3-5 0 and open flat places. Gooseberries are more drought tolerant than black currants, so they can be planted higher up the slope than other berry crops. On the southern slopes, gooseberries are damaged by sunburn. In closed basins, gooseberries can be damaged by frosts during the flowering period, and stagnant air contributes to the development of a dangerous disease - powdery mildew. In winter, without sufficient snow cover, gooseberries can freeze to the level of snow cover or lose many fruit buds, so it should be planted in an area with sufficient snow accumulation. It is desirable that there be natural or artificial protection from dry and cold winds - trees, shrubs, buildings, a fence.

The area under the gooseberry should be moderately moist - like blackcurrant, it does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. Under such conditions, the bushes grow weakly, are covered with lichens, and unstable varieties are severely affected by powdery mildew. Therefore, one of the most important conditions for normal growth and good fruiting of gooseberries is the absence of close standing groundwater (at least 1-1.2 m) and prolonged stagnation of water in spring and autumn. In waterlogged areas, the soil is drained with twigs, alluvium, or ridges and mounds are made. It is good to plant gooseberries along the dug along the perimeter of the site - the excess moisture goes into the ditches, and the gooseberries, if necessary, compensate for the lack of moisture from the same ditches.

Gooseberries can grow and bear fruit in almost all types of soil, but are especially productive on fertile loams and sandy loams with well-drained subsoil. With regular fertilization, gooseberries give high yields even on sandy soils. Unlike other berry crops, it tolerates acidic soils relatively easily and can bear fruit well on soils with a pH of up to 5.5.

Reproduction of currants and gooseberries by horizontal layers is one of the easiest ways to get new plants. And there are several of them at once. Winter is coming soon. It's time to think about what we will do with the advent of spring. And this method just falls at the beginning of the warm period.

Even a novice gardener can use this method to provide himself with planting material at no cost. And if you also take into account that white and red currants take root poorly when cutting, then this solution will be ideal for them. We select the mother bush. It must be healthy, strong, fruitful. Branches for rooting are suitable for both annual and perennial (biennial). But one condition, they must bend well to the ground.

Propagation of currants and gooseberries by horizontal layering

When currants and gooseberries are propagated with horizontal layering in the spring around the bush, compost or humus is scattered up to 5 buckets, then the earth is slightly dug up (but not under the bush, but around). The selected branch begins to gently bend to the ground in the direction from the bush. Prepare what to pin. After all, it will need to be fixed in this position.
How many branches can you bend? On one bush, no more than 2/3 of the branches can be bent for reproduction. Be sure to leave at least 1/3 of the bush for growth and fruiting.

In this position, buds will begin to develop on the branch, giving upward shoots. When they are about 15 cm high, it is necessary to hill them with earth with humus or compost (in extreme cases, just loose soil) to a height of about 8 cm. From above, mulch with a thin layer of dry earth. This roller must be kept moist, because it is in it that the roots will begin to grow.

After half a month, we add another 5 centimeters of land. With good care, maintaining moisture, getting rid of weeds, light loosening until mid-September, you will get young plants with a root system. When propagated by horizontal layering, currants and gooseberries are cut off from the mother liquor, dug up, divided into pieces - bushes and sent to a new place. If the root system of some is very weak, then it is better not to plant these specimens in a permanent place, but send them to a special bed designed for growing plants.
Sometimes they keep such layers near the mother liquor for two years, especially if the growth conditions were not very favorable (late warming, early cold, drought).

But not everywhere the summer is not distinguished by a hot and humid climate. Therefore, for such zones, it is recommended that when propagating currants and gooseberries with horizontal layering, the branch should not just be placed on the surface of the earth, but enclosed in a small, about 5 cm deep groove. It will also pinch and all further operations will be the same as described above.

Currants and gooseberries are propagated by cuttings- lignified and green, layering (horizontal and vertical) and dividing the bushes. Seeds are propagated only for the purpose of breeding new varieties.

For growing planting material (seedlings), it is necessary to select currant and gooseberry uterine bushes that are high-yielding, winter-hardy, healthy, that is, not affected by pests and diseases and resistant to them.

Consider the most common, as well as the most affordable methods of reproduction in a backyard garden plot.

Propagation by woody cuttings.

For this purpose, well-ripened and sufficient length (more than 30 cm) annual shoots from fruit-bearing bushes are taken.

Shoots for cuttings are best cut in the fall: red and white currants - in the first half of September, and black - in early October. By this time, annual shoots have time to mature, and buds form in the axils of the leaves.

First, entire shoots are cut from the bushes, then they are cut with a sharp knife into pieces about 20 cm long, the leaves are cut off. The best cuttings with well-developed buds are obtained from the middle part of the shoot. On the tops of the shoots and in their lower part, the buds are usually underdeveloped. Such cuttings, as well as less than 5-6 mm thick (thinner than a pencil) are of little use. Chopped cuttings are best planted immediately in pre-prepared soil. The soil must be fertilized and deeply cultivated. The cuttings are planted obliquely, at about 45° to the soil surface at a distance in a row no closer than 10 cm, and between rows 20-25 cm, so that it is convenient to loosen the aisles. 2 buds are left above the soil surface, and one of them should be at the level of the soil. The earth around the cuttings is tightly compressed so that it adheres to them and does not have voids, it is well watered and mulched with humus. In dry sunny weather, the planted cuttings shade.

For good and fast rooting and development of cuttings, the soil around them is always kept moist and loose. This is especially important in the first time after planting and in the spring. With good care in the first year, 2-3 shoots grow from the cuttings. The following year, in early spring, these shoots are cut, leaving them 10-15 cm long, and by autumn (in the second year of growth after planting), the seedlings are ready for planting in a permanent place as two-year-olds. If the planted cuttings have developed well and have a sufficiently developed root system, then annual seedlings can be planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings are best planted in the fall. But if for some reason their planting is postponed to spring, then it is better to harvest them from autumn to spring in a cool basement in wet sand or under snow. You can cut the shoots for cuttings and at the end of March. It is necessary to plant cuttings in the spring early, as soon as the soil thaws. Red and white currants, as mentioned above, are best planted in early autumn.

Gooseberries with lignified cuttings usually do not reproduce, as they take root poorly. Gooseberries reproduce well by horizontal and vertical layering.

Reproduction by horizontal layering. In this way, red and white currants, as well as gooseberries, reproduce well. At the same time, from one shoot in 1-2 years, you can get 3-5 or better quality seedlings.

To obtain seedlings in this way, one-year-old shoots and well-developed one-two-year-old branches are bent down near the bush in early spring (before bud break). They are laid in grooves 5-6 cm deep and pinned tightly to the ground with wooden or metal hooks. Before laying the shoots (branches), the soil is fertilized and loosened. To enhance the growth of shoots from lateral buds, the top of the shoot is shortened by 7-10 cm before laying.

The grooves should not be covered with earth, they are left open until vertically growing shoots appear. From time to time, the grooves are moistened. When young shoots reach a length of about 10 cm, they are spudded with half loose earth with humus. After 2-3 weeks, when the shoots grow again, hilling is repeated to a height of 8-10 cm. Hilling is carried out with moist soil, so it is done after rain or the soil is pre-watered.

During the summer, the soil near the mother bushes and layers is kept loose and moist, free from weeds. To preserve moisture after watering, the soil is mulched. In mid-September, when the growth of the shoots ends, the bent shoots for layering are cut off from the bush at the base of the branch with a pruner. The dug branch is cut into pieces according to the number of rooted layers, then they are sorted. Well-developed plants are selected for planting in a permanent place. In poorly developed ones, roots and shoots are shortened, then they are planted in a school in the second year for growing with a distance between plants of 20-25 cm, obliquely to the surface and somewhat deeper than they grew.

Gooseberry, otherwise called "northern grapes", is a perennial shrub, the berries of which contain a huge amount of useful trace elements, organic acids, pectins and tannins.

Reproduction methods

Having stems of different ages, the gooseberry bush will delight with a full-fledged harvest for about 5-6 years. The greatest number of berries in this case is formed on the side shoots of 3-8 years of age.

Therefore, in order to consistently obtain a tasty harvest of northern grapes, bushes should be updated and propagated in a timely manner.

Gooseberry propagation, for which one should choose pure-bred, high-yielding, bushes not affected by pests and diseases, is done in several ways:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• dividing the bush;
• seeds.

Propagation of gooseberries by green cuttings

Green cuttings are one of the most effective gooseberry propagation methods. In the second half of June, it is required to cut cuttings 7-12 cm in size with a sharp knife; for this, the gains of the current year with five buds should be used. You can propagate gooseberries by cuttings in the fall. Harvesting is desirable to produce in cloudy weather or in the early morning. Chopped cuttings are recommended to be pre-treated with a growth stimulator, and then planted for rooting in a substrate from a mixture of sand with peat or earth.

Landing should be done at an angle, at a distance of about 5 cm between the cuttings with 10-centimeter row spacing, leaving 2 buds at the top, and the lower one should be placed at soil level. Around the cuttings, it is required to tightly compress the ground in order to prevent the formation of voids, then moisten and mulch well. A bed with planted cuttings must be constantly watered and loosened, causing the early formation of strong young shoots from the kidneys. Top dressing is recommended to be done with ammonium nitrate (40 grams), (20 grams) and superphosphate (30 grams) based on a 10-liter bucket of water. Subject to all the conditions for the required care of young sprouts at the end of the season, high-quality annual seedlings are obtained; the best specimens are obtained by rooting cuttings cut from the top of the branches. It is worth knowing that the propagation of gooseberries with green cuttings is not suitable for all varieties. So, the best results were shown by the Yubileiny and Russian varieties, which gave 80-100% survival rate. To a greater extent, gooseberry propagation by cuttings is suitable for currants.

Method of combined cuttings

With this method, gooseberry propagation by cuttings is carried out using young green layering, which has part of the lignified growth (3-4 cm) of the last year. Harvested cuttings should be planted in loose, moist soil, while deepening the heel and base by 3-4 cm.

After that, it is required to water abundantly and mulch. Root formation occurs in a couple of weeks.

Horizontal layers - one of the methods of reproduction

Reproduction of gooseberries by layering is the method most suitable for 3-4 year old bushes and used by most gardeners because of its simplicity, ease, reliability and sufficient material for planting at the outlet. With this breeding method, recommended for early spring, it is required to use annual, well-developed growths that are conveniently located on the sides of the bush.

The soil must first be prepared: it is good to dig, fertilize and level. From the base of the bush, you need to make several shallow grooves up to 20 cm deep, in which young, conveniently located basal shoots should be laid and pinned. In the absence of studs, you can use any material at hand that can fix the layers near the ground. Layering branches, including their bases, must be in full contact with the ground, the tops must be pinched 3-4 cm without bringing them to the surface. After unfolding, horizontal layering should not be sprinkled with earth, this is done only after the buds germinate, shoots appear and reach a length of 5 cm. Only in this case is the first soil powder produced. The layered soil should be kept moist at all times, watering regularly and making sure that the water does not wash out the grooves.

When the shoots reach a length of 15-20 cm, they must be spudded with humus or moist soil to the very tops; hilling must be repeated throughout the summer season; with strong growth - pinch the tops (in June) so that the plant spends energy on branching. It is important not to forget to carry out top dressing, it is recommended to use ammonium salt, superphosphate as fertilizers.

The gooseberry, which is propagated by layering, takes root best in wet years; in dry times, the roots stop growing early in the summer and resume it only in the autumn when the optimum soil temperature and humidity are restored. It is recommended to separate the layers from the mother bush in autumn and spring, but it is preferable in this case to do this in the spring, because during the autumn and winter the root system of a young seedling will develop well and strengthen, after which it is recommended to plant the finished seedlings on a permanent place of growth. The dug up young gooseberry, which is propagated by layering, needs to be cut into separate seedlings, sorted, discarded weaker ones (with a poorly developed root system) and planted for growing.

What is a good method of propagation by horizontal layering? Lots of planting material. From each horizontally laid annual shoot, up to 6 full-fledged shoots with roots are formed - future gooseberry seedlings.

Reproduction by layering: method number 2

There is another method of propagation by layering, which is simpler than those described above. For this, layering can be obtained during spring or autumn pruning of gooseberries. You should select several long young branches, dig them horizontally (about 10 cm deep). At the same time, the top (about 12 cm long) must be left and prikopat it vertically, using a peg for this. A year later, full-fledged shoots will appear.

Gooseberry: propagation by arcuate layering

This method is used in early spring; young annual growths need to be laid in rows in furrows, pinned in the middle of the pit deepening and sprinkled with earth. The tops must be brought out in an arc to the surface of the earth, tied to a peg, shortened and spud. In summer, regular watering and fertilizing is required. Arcuate layering for the season will have time to take root and become a full-fledged planting material. This method gives only one seedling from an annual root shoot, which is several times less than with the horizontal layering method. The gooseberry, which is propagated by arcuate layering, is characterized by power and quickly begins to bear fruit.

Reproduction by vertical layering

This method is used for older gooseberry bushes or when transferring a plantation of bushes to a new location. In early spring, all old branches are cut out, young ones are shortened by 2/3. This operation will cause the intensive appearance of a large number of shoots. When they reach a height of 15-18 cm, the latter should be piled up with earth to half; when hilling up the branches, it is necessary to move apart and fill all the voids with earth. Hilling is done 2-3 times, as the branches grow. In June, the tops of the gooseberries need to be pinched, this will cause the branching of the future bush. By autumn, with good watering and additional dressings, the layers will have time to take root well; they can be dug up for planting.

The division of the bush

Propagation of gooseberries by dividing the bush is used in most cases when determining a plantation to another place of growth. This method is due to the fact that the independence of the various parts of the bush is pronounced in the gooseberry; some branches at a young age form and develop a separate root system. When digging bushes, they are divided into parts; younger shoots with well-developed roots are used as planting material. Reproduction of currants, gooseberries by dividing the bush can be done in the fall, after the leaves fall (October-November), or in early spring, before the buds open (in March).

Reproduction by seeds

Gooseberries are propagated by seeds when new varieties are bred. Material obtained from free pollination and bred from directional crosses is used.

Propagation of gooseberries by layering

Propagating shrubs of your favorite gooseberry or currant variety in your area is quite simple. If you have a healthy bush of an elite variety with a good yield, you can get to work.

There are three most popular ways to propagate blackcurrants and gooseberries by layering:

• horizontal;
• arcuate;
• vertical.

It is necessary to start breeding currants or gooseberries with layering in the spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed. For central Russia, this is mid-April, but it is better to monitor the air temperature (if it is consistently positive from +5, you can start). The disadvantage of this procedure is the difficulty in caring for the mother bush, and in harvesting, since young shoots limit access to it.

Propagation of currants and gooseberries by horizontal layering

First, you need to inspect the bushes and choose strong two-year-old shoots from which layering will be made.

The procedure itself goes as follows:

• The soil around the bush is well loosened, fertilized and watered;
• The selected shoots are pinched by 2-3 cm, bent to the ground and laid in shallow grooves (up to 10 cm), and then in several places they are attached to the ground with wire or wood studs. It is not necessary to sprinkle them with soil yet;
• When shoots grow from the buds, about 10 cm high, they are sprinkled with earth to the middle;
• After a couple of weeks, they are spud again;
• When the young sprouts are fully rooted, they can be dug up and seated as separate bushes, cut off from the main bush with pruning shears.

The procedure for propagation by arcuate layering is no different. The extreme branches are carefully arched towards the ground, as in the diagram below. They are fastened with studs in two places to fix the rooting site, which is sprinkled with earth (2/3 of the entire shoot should be in the ground). The rest of the branch is brought out and pinched.

Propagation of currants and gooseberries by vertical layering

Thanks to this method, you can get the largest number of seedlings.

The procedure for propagating currants and gooseberries with vertical layering:

• it is necessary to select productive young bushes and cut most of the branches (shorten by two-thirds of the length);
• young shoots will soon begin to grow from the lower buds;
• when the sprouts reach 15-20 cm, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush, and spud up the shoots to half their growth (the procedure will need to be repeated several times during the summer);
• in autumn, the shoots will already take root, and they can be seated.

In the middle of summer, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots, this will ensure good branching of the future bush.

Vertical propagation is also carried out according to a different scheme, when the bush is cut off completely and all shoots are used as seedlings and planted after rooting. The mother plant is uprooted to be replaced by the young.