Do-it-yourself plywood boat buy drawings. DIY boat: the best projects and tips on how to make a wooden or plywood boat

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, long, wide enough boards that are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choice of boards for work

Before you start production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After that, it is necessary to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other have no gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.

The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The beam is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to look for and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions from above and below so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to determine the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a spacer board the size of the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.

When the strut is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people for help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that there are no gaps and cracks when connecting the back wall and sides.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed on top of the struts. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the lower part in one plane and treat the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom will be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find one that matches the size of the boat.

How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands

Put the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a margin of a few centimeters just in case, you can always trim the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water in.

When this process is completed, we proceed to the connection of the bottom with the frame. Carefully lay the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move to the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the nose of the boat from external factors with the help of the same metal. Cut out a rectangle of tin according to the size of the boat.

Everywhere where wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start "wrapping" the nose with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.

Be sure to make a mount on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, as on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and review all the ideas of what you can make a boat out of. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the reverse side, since galvanized metal collapses over time upon contact with water. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and, as a result, the boat should be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. So the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

This will complete the boat. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with descriptions to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.

DIY boat photo

Not every angler can buy a watercraft, because the products are sold at high prices. And also not all models can meet one or another request of the buyer. The most budget models are rowing or motor rubber boats, but, as a rule, they are unreliable, and in case of damage during fishing, an unpleasant situation will occur. Meanwhile, fishermen and swimmers increasingly began to make homemade boats with their own hands from wood or plywood.

Features of a homemade watercraft

From modern building materials, you can build a ship for 2-3 people. Homemade boats for fishing can be equipped with oars or a motor. Some put sail on the boat. Installing a motor on water transport is not difficult, but you need to understand that if you constantly visit small lakes or ponds, then in this case the presence of a motor will be impractical.

Craftsmen for making a boat with their own hands mainly use bars for the frame and plywood for sheathing the structure. If you are a fan of swimming in large reservoirs, then it is quite possible to build a full-fledged boat with a roof. This will also require plywood, timber and galvanized metal. To increase the life of the boat, treat the tree with antiseptic agents and paint it.

The boat is equipped with a motor in the event that the vessel was made with high quality. Because when swimming at a solid speed, the structure can fall apart. However, a wooden boat is much better than inflatable models. Fishermen often swim into difficult places with snags, and for a rubber watercraft, this can result in a snag on branches and a hull rupture.

Tools and materials

First, find a large space to work in, such as a garage. Secondly, if you work in winter, the room must be heated. Also, there should not be a high concentration of moisture in the room, otherwise the plywood will not dry out, but rot. As a rule, coloring is done on the street. To make homemade boats from plywood for fishing use the following tools and materials:

The most expensive is plywood and timber, the rest is much cheaper. Electrical equipment can be borrowed from neighbors.

Parameters and details for the product

Rowing craft can be built at your discretion and your own size. But according to the technology, building a boat with your own hands will be made of plywood 5 mm thick, it is recommended to use the following parameters:

total width not less than 110 cm;
the length from the beginning to the end of the structure is 450 cm;
depth is 50 cm.

All structural details are attached to the keel - this is the basic key element. The back of the boat is called the sternpost, and the bow is called the stem. Due to these elements, the longitudinal rigidity is enhanced. These basic parts can be made from solid wood using a jigsaw. And the cut parts are connected with glue or self-tapping screws. Do not fix parts with nails ^ this is an unreliable method.

Frames are transverse load-bearing structural elements that form the hull of the boat. By connecting the sternpost, stem and frames, the sidewalls of the craft will be obtained. At the final stage, the frame of the vessel is sheathed with plywood. The inner part of the product is equipped with a slate - this especially applies to the bottom, which should be protected as much as possible.

Motor designs

The scheme of a motor vessel practically does not differ from rowing and sailing models. The only thing is the back of the boat, on which the propeller motor is attached. This part of the vessel must be strong and reliable so that the motor does not come off the structure during navigation. Craftsmen recommend using a transom board for a boat motor.

Modernized vessels are equipped with additional elements - stringers, side stringers, cockpit and deck stringers. In order for the boat to be unsinkable and stable, it is necessary to create a layer between the outer side of the frame and the inner side. This void is filled with mounting foam. In the event of a capsizing of the vessel, flooding and sinking to the bottom will not occur. Therefore, experts strongly recommend using such a trick.

Creation of drawings

Drawings are an integral part of the work. Because the whole process always begins with well-designed schemes intended for self-construction. If it’s difficult for you to draw sketches or you don’t want to, use ready-made diagrams, which are full on the Internet. When drawing up drawings, be as careful as possible and do not miss any detail. Make several sketches of the future boat according to the following rules:

The main task: draw all the necessary details and indicate their dimensions. The third drawing is a sketch. On it, you must draw the appearance of the boat in order to have an idea of what kind of watercraft you will get at the exit.

Template making

So, do-it-yourself plywood boat pattern drawings have been drawn up and now you have to make a template that is designed to transfer the shape of the bottom to plywood. You will need to find sheets of cardboard and connect them with a stapler. Then, armed with drawings, you should draw the shape of the workpiece on paper. Then cut off all the excess and attach the template to the plywood sheets and circle it with a pencil or pen.

If the boat is made of solid wood, then you need to copy the pattern not against the direction of the fibers, but along the fibers. In this way, possible defects can be avoided. For plywood sheets, the direction of the fibers is random. Because this material is made by pressing wood shavings. In simple terms: the bottom can be marked in any direction. But the template is mainly intended if you are going to build a punt boat.

Sequence of work

As in any other business, the entire workflow is carried out in stages. The boat is no exception: to make a quality construction, you will have to follow certain steps. How to make a boat out of wood - technological steps:

As you can see, the workflow is laborious, but it's worth it.

Staged assembly

Prepare all material and tools. Check that all electrical equipment is working properly. Also, when working with wood, you must have protective equipment: gloves and goggles. Be careful when cutting material with a circular saw.

Frame assembly

First of all, cut the bars for the sidewalls - futoks. Then other bars are prepared, which will later form the sides of the vessel and the lower part. The bottom can be made according to the technology of building ships, that is, a rounded triangular shape, you can also build an ordinary punt. Then prepare the bars for the bow and stern.

The next step is to make the nose. Take a few spacers and two long beams. They must be connected from one end with screws. Then a bar is attached to the other side - this is the back of the boat. The part is also attached with screws. Then, in the middle of the back bar, attach another bar in a vertical position.

The made boat frame needs to be shaped in the form of a bullet. Take a couple of spacers and fasten them across near the bow. Then the frame is turned over with the bar up, which was fixed on the back and lay the axial bar, which will serve as a supporting part for the futoks - stiffeners.

To do this, fasten one edge to the bar, which is on the back - its height will be 50 cm, and put the other edge of the bar for the bottom at the nose of the frame. Now screw two short bars to the sidewalls and the central bar, stepping back from the edge of about 70-100 cm. You need to bend the fixed edge of the bar to make it arched. Then it must be screwed at the bow of the frame.

Fixing stiffeners

So, the frame is done and now you need to install the stiffeners. For these purposes, you will have to use spacers, one spacer is installed for each pair of stiffeners. This is necessary so that the sidewalls are rounded. As a rule, bars are used with a small diameter, capable of bending without much reinforcement.

Work starts from the stern. Screw the first bar to the sidewall, and then the second to the other side of the future boat. Now a spacer is installed between them and two ribs are fixed to the central bar. Try to carefully bend the material, otherwise a fracture may occur.

The stiffeners should be mounted in 30 cm increments. When you get to the bow of the boat, do not remove the installed spacers yet. Measure the depth of the boat by 20 cm. Mark the two sidewalls. You need to fasten two long beams along the sidewalls, which will more firmly connect the stiffeners. Then install several spacers between the two along the passing parts. Remove the rest of the spacers.

Now you need to strengthen all the joints. Use metal corners and screws. In the bow, step back 50 cm from the edge and screw the jumper. Also, the nose must be strengthened and at the very edge, drill a hole with a drill, and then tighten the structure with a bolt and nut. After that, we can assume that the skeleton of the ship is ready.

Sheathing frame with plywood

In this step, turn the boat upside down and begin to sheathe the sides. It is necessary that the applied material is fully adjacent to the stiffeners. Plywood is fixed with self-tapping screws. There should be enough material to reach from the top of the sidewall to the bottom of the boat.

As a rule, sheets are produced in sizes of 150 cm, so there will be at least two joints on the boat. The lowermost edge of the boat will turn out in the form of a rounded triangle. Along the entire length, you will have to fix a strip of zinc with a width of at least 50 cm.

After the outer skin, take a few cylinders of foam. It is necessary to foam the layer to the width of the bar. Foam in all places and do not leave voids. Then make the inner lining. To prevent the boat from being too heavy, use chipboard sheets for the inner lining - they are thinner and lighter than plywood.

Gluing joints and painting

In the end, you will have to glue all the joints of the outer case. The seams are filled to the extent that the adhesive begins to flow out. For best effect, apply a layer of silicone sealant to the docking points. This will protect the structure from water penetration.

At the last stage, the watercraft is painted with water-repellent paint. But before that, inspect the case for chips and cracks. If there are such defects, then they need to be covered with putty. Some craftsmen glue the entire body with fiberglass, and then paint it. The primary primer layer is applied and the secondary - color.

Now the motor is installed and it remains to wait until the structure is completely dry, after that check the homemade product by swimming on it on the lake. If you find any faults, fix them.

Attention, only TODAY!

For a long time I wanted to create a record with a mark of the main points in the manufacture of the boat, but it still did not work out! Dad is getting older every year, and there is still no cheat sheet, although we have made more than one pair of boats with him ... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the kids are growing up and boats are needed more stable and lifting, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim out, but with my sons this must be warned! It's time to take out the previously stocked boards, trimmed, planed, prepared nails, and, one weekend, got down to business! (It is better to use spruce boards, without knots, but there is not always what you need)

First of all, Dad sketched a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects

Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main one with a jigsaw, left only along the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.

When fitting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we adjust more or less tightly

When all the details are prepared, we begin to assemble the bottom, first, having tightly assembled the boards, we sew them with nails in the middle of the crossbar, then with the help of a rope and two crowbars we tighten the stern, we sew it with nails, we do the same with the bow

Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, during screeding and assembly, the bottom turns out to be a little sphere both across and along. In the future, this gives the stability of the boat on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will facilitate bottom caulking.

When the bottom is assembled, we cut out the edges according to the intended dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not work to bend the side boards clearly

The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides at the same time on both sides, if bending in turn can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We attach the side board to the bow on one side, sew it on, then the same on the second side, then one presses it by bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.

The boards were pulled together as well as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some form was drawn, further it is easier. In the same way, we bend the second row of side boards. We do not beat a lot of nails when stitching, because it will still be necessary to caulk! Next, we saw off the extra ends of the boards, both side and bow with the stern. Then you adjust the front nose board.

After the end of the assembly, you work as a planer, where you need to round, level, go through the entire longboat, cut out the frames beautifully. After restoring beauty, we caulk, add nails in places, fasten the oarlocks, tar the bottom, nail the flashings to the bottom, tar them, then paint. We also make seats for whom we paint them as conveniently as possible. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. Oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so that without problems.

In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it was clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second quite recently. The boats were made identical, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask! True, questions usually arise during self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is indispensable!

Thank you for your attention!

Drawings and photos

Captain Vrungel believed that whatever you call the ship, it will float. We will not argue with the old, tested sea wolf, but still we will put forward our opinion - how much more carefully and accurately you prepare the drawings of a plywood boat with your own hands, so it will serve you for many years and in any weather. It is the drawings of the vessel that will determine all your further decisions.

It is they who will introduce you to this world of shipbuilding, in which Anglo-Dutch terminology rules. And to understand the terminology of the structural elements of boats, which means successfully reading the proposed drawing, is fundamentally important.

According to the old axiom, start from the stove

Drawings of a homemade plywood boat must necessarily include strict instructions on how to fasten all elements - this is the key issue of the whole structure

Indeed, terminology, if you are rushing into such a bottomless area as building a boat, is of great and decisive importance. We bring to your attention its basics regarding the design of boats, and which appear everywhere on the drawings.

Terminology

Therefore, learn these terms very carefully, they literally permeate any worthwhile drawing of a boat from any material.

In the side view, we note the following structural elements of the boat, and it is impossible to say which of them is the most important, which is less, all elements are mandatory for use:

A - frame. You can choose the option of an ordinary punt, without frames, but when it comes to such an aspiration thrown on the Internet as “do-it-yourself plywood boat drawings”, the reliability and strength of the structure comes to the fore, which means frames are mandatory;
Spacing - the distance between two frames. The most important characteristic is the design of any boat;
B - sternpost;
C - stem;
D - timber
E - kilson. A very desirable design element, which, however, is often discarded for boats;
F - fender. You cannot do without this element if you are going to make an add-on in the boat. For open models, the fender is not used.
I - breshtuk. We strongly advise you not to neglect this element, the strength of the entire structure greatly depends on it.
J - book. The knee is also extremely important in ensuring the strength of the boat.
K - stringer. It is also an indispensable element if it approaches the construction very carefully.

The top view introduces a few more important terms:

A - beam;
B - half beam. Goes to full beam if you are not building a superstructure on the boat;
C - karengs;
D - midelweiss.

The view from the forecastle introduces terms that will be of fundamental importance at a more advanced stage of construction, when it becomes necessary to strengthen the hull of the boat and set the sail and keel, while also improving sailing performance:

A - sheet piling;
B - keel. Providing a keel weight of 50 percent of the weight of the entire boat, you significantly increase its stability. After all, you never know how the rolling will affect you or future passengers, and a solid supply of sucking sweets and even ginger will do little to prolong the pleasure of being on the water, except to quickly get to the shore;
C - steps. Mandatory if you put up a mast;
D - sheet pile;
E - partners. This is the name of the hole in the superstructure for the passage of the mast. Of course, if you do not have an add-on, then you can forget about partnering for now;
F - velvet. Very responsible sheet piling belt at the level of the waterline, water;
H - sheerstrake. The topmost sheet pile.
G - water level;
I - waterway. This element is already an add-on element.

Plywood

The most common material for the manufacture of boats today, of course, is carbon fiber. But this material is the domain of industry. When it comes to independent creativity, such “folk” material as plywood comes to the fore..

Plywood or in other words, wood-laminated board is a building material created by gluing specially crafted veneer. Usually the number of veneer layers is odd and, in any case, more than 3. To increase the strength of plywood, each subsequent layer of veneer is perpendicular to the fibers of the previous layer with its wood fibers. Frames are the foundation of any floating facility. Drawings of plywood boats that claim to be something more than a punt should have a separate option - the location of the frames

Plywood characteristics

When choosing plywood for building a boat, it is very important to choose the right type of plywood.

According to the arrangement of wood fibers on the outer layers, plywood is distinguished:

Longitudinal, when the fibers are directed along the long side, and,
Transverse - short.

For the construction of a boat, it is better to choose a longitudinal one.
Of course, such an isometric drawing is also possible, but this is the easiest option for the heading “drawings of a plywood boat for free” - there are no frames, and the work is in many ways similar to assembling a children's designer, except that the details are dozens of times larger

By purpose, plywood is divided into:

construction,
industrial,
packaging,
furniture, and
structural - this is what we choose for our purposes.

There is also a classification of plywood in relation to the effects of moisture, which is fundamentally important for a boat:

FBA is like that, but you should not choose it, it does not meet stringent requirements for moisture resistance;
FC - this is the designation of plywood that is sufficiently resistant to moisture;
PSF - and so, with increased moisture resistance;
FB - impregnated with bakelite varnish, such plywood is considered the most resistant and can be used even in aggressive environments, which is important in our case, and under water;
BS - this one is already simply impregnated with bakelite glue. Consider that if such plywood was at your disposal, then 50% of the success of the whole business is guaranteed. Such plywood has been specially used in aircraft and shipbuilding for quite a long time. It happily combines all the qualities necessary for the craftsman's boating business - excellent flexibility, the highest strength, complete water tightness, and also resistance to decay and deoxidation;
BV - but let this one not be misleading, it is in many ways similar to BS, but does not have moisture resistance.

Useful advice!
When choosing plywood for building a boat, we advise you to pay attention to laminated plywood.
At the very least, it will be just fine if you use one as a sheet pile or on the outside of the hull if it is a single layer.
This will greatly improve the driving performance of your creation, because water is a medium in which the force of friction plays a significant role.
On the other hand, you shouldn't use laminated plywood inside the boat.
Its slippery surface itself, and even moistened with water, can cause a lot of trouble.

Principal characteristic

When it comes to using plywood for building a boat, the choice of plywood for its quality, determined by the number of knots per square meter of the outer layer, will be fundamental.

There are 5 levels of quality:

E - the so-called elite quality, when there are no knots at all. Needless to say, it is always necessary to strive for the choice of just such plywood;
Well, then, a straightforward classification of quality - I, II, III and IV. In the latter case, the number of knots is not controlled.
I - the maximum length of knots and warping does not exceed 20 mm;
II - cracks no more than 200 mm, wood inserts are permissible, and glue seepage is permissible only on an area of 2% of the total sheet area;
III - no more than 10 pieces of knots with a diameter of no more than 6 mm. There is even a restriction on the total number of shortcomings - no more than 9;
IV - this is the worst quality with even dropped knots and edge defects under 5 mm.

Operating conditions requirements

Most likely, for the construction of a boat you will choose as the most common. There is also birch plywood, but its use is limited by too high a price.

Another thing is very important here - the quality of the processing of the outer surface of the plywood sheet.

According to this indicator, plywood is distinguished:

NSh - unpolished;
Ш1 - polished on one side;
Ш2 - polished on both sides.

Here, it is fundamental and mandatory to use the sanded side of the plywood on the outer side of the case. It is desirable, for safety reasons, not to use the sanded side on the inside.

Dimensions

The natural characteristic of any sheet of plywood is its size.

The industry, according to standards, produces sheets of the following four sizes:

1525 x 1525 mm;
1220 x 2440 mm;
1500 x 3000 mm;
1525 x 3050 mm.

Your choice will largely depend on the size of the boat.

Useful advice!
All the given characteristics of plywood must be indicated in the specification of the boat drawings.
In no case do not agree to purchase the proposed boat drawings if they are not accompanied by a detailed explanatory note describing all the nuances of manufacturing, and most importantly, the choice of plywood type.
The drawings shall indicate the degree of processing of the outer sides of the hull.
In this regard, the grinding machine will be one of the most sought after in your work.

conclusions

Building a boat is an exciting creative process for people who still like to live, who are not afraid to experiment and have a design streak. (see also) But, on the other hand, you should not reinvent the wheel, be sure to get acquainted with all the photo materials, study the terminology and various design solutions.

Set yourself up for possible reworking of bad decisions. Know how to "talk to yourself" and communicate with experienced masters. Only in this case is the success of the whole enterprise called “do-it-yourself plywood boat building” possible.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Good day!
Today, the author of this work invites us to look at the process of making a home-made plywood boat, he was inspired by an old dream. First of all, he went to one of the factories where such boats are produced, he is located in the city of Cherepovets, where he emphasized for himself a few points that later came in handy in the manufacture, and bought the necessary material there.

To make a boat, we need:

Tool:

Pencil;
- ruler;
- electric screwdriver;
- Sander;
- electric planer;
- clamps;
- pliers.
- square ruler.

Materials:

Plywood;
- copper wire
- fiberglass;
- epoxy adhesive;
- self-tapping screws.

Since the plywood sheets were smaller than the planned dimensions of the boat, the author had to glue them together, going through all the possible options, this type of gluing was chosen

And so, we take the sheets and begin to mark.

We smooth the ends of plywood at an angle, for this we use a planer, and then we go through a grinder

It should turn out like this.

Next, the sheets are applied to each other, and glued together with wood glue, then put under the press, placing a pressure bar along the entire length of the seam.

After the sheets have finally stuck together, you can remove them from under the press, remove the clamping bars, the joint should turn out to be even and very strong, so we got the blanks of the length we need.

On a sheet of plywood we mark the center line, from which all the main dimensions will go in the future.

We draw the bottom of the boat, as shown in the photo

Next, using an electric jigsaw, we cut out the bottom according to the markup, we use a specialized blade designed for plywood, it is best to cut at high speeds.

Then we mark one side for the boat, cut it out, and use it as a template for making the second.

Next, we mark up and cut out the transom.

We join the cut parts, at the joints we chamfer with a grinder. Next, on the sides and on the bottom of the boat, we make holes with a thin drill, and we begin to sew the elements of the boat with the help of prepared pieces of copper wire, which we put into the holes made, and then twist with pliers.

Sew from stern to bow.

In this process, you will need an assistant, since it will be difficult to do this alone.

Seam example.

In the end result, when the last part is fixed, we get such a body.

We make a sample.

Next, we check the geometry of the resulting shape, if necessary, we additionally tighten the brackets more tightly, and then with the help of a chisel we plant them, doing this from the inside of the sides. After the performed operations, we cut out and put temporary spacers, they were fixed in place of future frames.

In order to form a more even seam, it was decided to use masking tape.

Next, the author drew a template for the frames, and proceeded to the assembly.

We got such frames, everything is fastened with self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Let's start gluing the internal seams, for this we use strips of fiberglass, and epoxy, glue in three layers, we try to impregnate the fiberglass well, make sure that there are no bubbles.