How to make a wooden fence. Do-it-yourself wooden fence - the correct construction of a beautiful and durable fence (95 photos)

In recent years, the fashion for wooden buildings has led to the fact that more and more developers are thinking that a metal fence may not be the best solution. In terms of durability, maybe yes, but in terms of aesthetics, it is inferior to wood. The wooden fence has somewhat lost its popularity due to its short life: wood, with constant exposure to the sun and water, quickly collapses. To increase the service life, the protective coating in the form of paint has to be constantly updated. With a large length, it takes a lot of time and requires a considerable amount of paint. This problem has become less acute, since the new antiseptics that have recently appeared can extend the life of the fence, and also guarantee the durability of staining for several years. The term is different - from 2-3 years, to 5-7. It depends on the type of antiseptic impregnation and the manufacturer, but finding "long-playing" ones is not difficult: in any more or less large store.

Moreover, these impregnations do not paint over the texture of the tree: all the veins are visible. They just change color, usually to a darker one. Such a fence made of wood looks solid and rich. Even a simple picket fence, and even a difficult one, even more so.

What is important is that you can put up a wooden fence with your own hands alone, if necessary, even without the involvement of assistants. Another important thing: a significant part of the work - the preparation of wood - can be carried out not on the spot, but, say, in a garage or workshop. And start it long before the start of construction. For example, from autumn to spring, and the construction itself should be started already when the weather is warm.

Wood is a very plastic material and the simplest thing can be done so that it looks like a work of art. This is true for fences as well. If you wish, you can make such a “candy”, which is a pleasure to look at. There are several designs of wooden fences.

Fence

The simplest is the picket fence. This is a set of edged boards or strips of the same, as a rule, width, which are nailed vertically to two or more transverse rails.

Scheme of a wooden fence made of vertically nailed boards - picket fence

The shape of the top may differ. A 90° floor cut is the easiest option, but far from the best, and not only in terms of aesthetics. The top of such a fence, even painted, is exposed to intense moisture, as a result, the coating in this place is destroyed first. And the wood pores in the perpendicular cut remain open. Rain, fog, melting snow / ice are absorbed by them, which leads to the destruction of wood. To avoid this, cut the tops not at 90 degrees, but at 45 degrees. If you look at such a board in profile, then the top will be beveled (see the figure below).

The distance between two adjacent fences is chosen according to your desire. You can make a solid fence, fitting one close to the other, you can make it translucent, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm, or you can make it completely transparent - with a large distance equal to the width of the boards or even more. Such options are popular for internal fences, which are more designed to separate zones and mark boundaries than to protect from something. For outdoor fences facing the street, they usually choose a solid installation, maybe with a very small distance so that the boards do not “swell” in wet weather.

Sawn tops add variety. They can be sharpened in different ways - with a rounded top, in the form of peaks, triangles, trapezoids. All this in different versions and combinations.

Rounded top - the most popular This is more of an openwork fence, but decorative - for sure Tops in the form of lilies - the fence will be beautiful Peaks and triangles - in combination and independently

Some even make truly works of art: a carved fence requires a lot of perseverance. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it.

Carved fence slats - beauty Beauty - carved wooden fence

Make curly tops faster and easier with a template. Cut out a sample from a sheet of plywood, bring it to perfect condition. Then cut out all the rest according to this pattern. You can cut with a jigsaw or on a milling machine.

A jigsaw for such a case can be bought. All the same, even taking into account this expense item, it will turn out cheaper than buying ready-made carved pickets. The downside here is that it takes a lot of time, and the pickets turn out to be unequal: either the file will go a little to the right, then a little to the left. The edges then still have to be processed with sandpaper.

Buying a milling machine, if you don’t plan to use it later, is unprofitable. And those who already have one can buy cutters with a floating head and make a figured picket fence with it. The height of the cutting part of the cutter is equal to the thickness of the board that you will be processing, and the head rests against the template.

In both cases, you will have to somehow fix the template on the workpiece. This can be done with thin nails or by sticking double-sided tape on the template.

But if you approach the process creatively, then even from even thin planks you can make a beautiful wooden fence: nailing it at different angles.

The authors of this wooden fence made it even simpler: they only made the height non-linear, emphasizing the relief with a plank nailed on top. This, by the way, is the second way to significantly increase the life of a wooden fence - the plank blocks access for water to the most vulnerable open cross sections). Also, non-linearity is given by planks nailed to the surface in the form of frames, and the wood inside is painted in a lighter color. Agree, original.

Wooden fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

In fact, this is one of the subspecies of the picket fence. The boards are stuffed alternately on one side, then on the other side of the crossbar. It turns out an interesting three-dimensional view.

The principle of installing shtaketin in the fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

If you look at such a fence exactly opposite, it looks like a deaf one, if to the side, then at a certain angle some part of the yard will be visible through the gap. The degree of transparency is regulated by the entry of one bar after another. You can make it so that the visibility will be zero. For example, with a plank width of 10 cm, make the distance between them no more than 6 cm. Here, no matter how you look, nothing is visible. The disadvantage is the high consumption of wood. But the fences are very beautiful, especially in combination with brick or stone pillars and figuratively made tops.

Checkerboard on the plinth - such a fence looks gorgeous

They make horizontal fences from chessboards. But here you need to keep in mind that it is very convenient to climb on such a fence: boards are like steps. True, any fence is not such a serious obstacle. Rather, it is a protection from prying eyes than from serious assassination attempts.

Wooden fence - horizontal checkerboard

Such "chess" looks decent and solid. Pillars can be anything: metal, wood, stone, concrete. If metal poles are installed, they are made from a profiled thick-walled pipe (3 mm). Above ground level, from the front and back, they are sewn up with boards (to the pillars with bolts or self-tapping screws), which are larger than the width of the profile: they should protrude on the sides by 3-6 cm. Thus, we get guides into which the boards are inserted. The boards are then fastened from the inside to the sheathing of the pillars.

Fence "Herringbone"

Another type of horizontal fence is called a herringbone. It is named so because the boards are stacked close to one another, and with an overlap on the one below. In profile, it looks like a Christmas tree, as children draw it.

Wooden fences "herringbone" create a continuous covering

It is more difficult to climb up such a fence. Please note that there is a protective visor on top. It protects the most vulnerable part of the fence, greatly extending its life, as well as pushing back the time for the next painting. After all, usually the top and bottom of the coating is the most damaged. From below, this fence is protected by a plinth, from above - by a visor.

Wooden fences "blinds"

They differ from those described above in that the boards do not adjoin one another. They are fixed at an angle, but with some clearance. This type of fence does not create a solid wall and the yard can be viewed, although this will require you to sit down or even lie down - depending on the angle of inclination.

A fence called "blinds" - looking at its device, you will understand why

This type of fence is very uneconomical - wood consumption is usually high. The assembly is also difficult: fasten a bar (corner) under each board or cut a notch in the post.

But with this construction, good ventilation of the site is ensured. This is important if the climate or terrain is humid. You can’t install a solid fence: there will be a puddle under it and the dirt in the yard will never dry out.

Wicker from the board - a beautiful fence

The fence made of boards bent between the pillars looks unusual. They are intertwined between the pillars like a traditional wattle fence. They only make it from long boards.

Fence "braid" from the board

Most often they are found in a horizontal version. There are fewer joints and bending long spans is easier.

There are also vertical braids. To give them a finished look, planks are nailed at the top and bottom - they both hold the edges of the boards and protect them from bad weather.

How to make such beauty, see the video. It's really easy, but it takes a lot of strength.

lattice fences

A wide variety of gratings are made from thin, and not very thin, slats: with different angles, frequency of slats, etc. These fences play a rather decorative role and are used either for indoor fencing - the waters of the thief, in the garden - or for the main entrance - to mark the borders, but not cover the beauty.

Fence made of wooden planks lattice “in a cage” Lattice fence made of boards - looks serious Double planks - such a lattice fence looks interesting

Photo of beautiful fences

You just wonder what beauty people can make from a piece of wood. Really beautiful. And some, while not very complex.

Maybe someone will be inspired by these photos of old wooden fences, they can be repeated ...

Disappearing beauty...

The construction of a beautiful fence is the logical conclusion to the design of home ownership, protection from other people's indiscreet looks and decoration of the site. The decision to make a wooden fence with your own hands, despite the cheapness, requires preparation and accurate calculation.

Wooden fence: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is one of the most attractive materials for making a fence, however, it is capricious in operation, and the durability of a fence made of this material largely depends on the choice of wood type.

For the manufacture of the simplest picket fence, coniferous woods are usually chosen, which are cheap and less prone to decay. Of course, no one will forbid making a fence made of oak or beech, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny.

Advantages of wood:

  1. Environmental friendliness;
  2. Availability of the material;
  3. Low cost;
  4. Ease of processing and installation;
  5. High decorative.

Material disadvantages:

  1. Fragility (some breeds);
  2. Tendency to crack;
  3. Rotting in conditions of high humidity;
  4. fire hazard;
  5. Pest damage.

Since some of the shortcomings can be eliminated by various impregnations, wood for fencing is most often chosen.

Varieties of wooden fences

For thousands of years, wood has been the only building material; our ancestors have accumulated vast experience in using wood for various purposes, including fences.

The figure shows the most common designs of picket fences, but this is the simplest design of boards - a picket fence, in addition to it, wood is used:

  1. wattle;
  2. boardwalk;
  3. pole;
  4. palisade;
  5. panel;
  6. ranch.

With a little imagination, any of these fences can be made a visiting card of the site, and, explaining the way to guests, the neighbors will say: this is where the fence is beautiful (unusual, stunning, unique)!

Examples of options in the photo

A low fence opens a playground on the site to the neighbors A fence of boards arranged in a checkerboard pattern blocks the view of the site A wickerwork of boards located at an angle can serve as a support for climbing plants Passing by such a fence, you involuntarily smile The fence pattern is made in such a way that a high fence is made from short dies A picket fence, supplemented with end saw cuts of a tree, becomes a blank fence Mirror film pasted on picket fences turns an ordinary fence into an art object There is no place for pests in a garden with such fences.

Construction preparation

Even such a seemingly simple matter as fencing a site with your own hands requires:

  1. preliminary acquaintance with the normative documentation;
  2. project development;
  3. determining the need for materials;
  4. budgeting.

Current regulations

Standards for the construction of fences for suburban areas are prescribed in SP 53.13330.2011 "SNiP" 30-02-97 * "Planning and development of territories of gardening (country) associations of citizens. Buildings and constructions":

  • Fences between sections should have a height of no more than 1.5 m, mesh or lattice;
  • By decision of the general meeting of members of the partnership, the fencing of the site from the side of the street or passage may be deaf, but not higher than 2.2 meters;
  • The distance between the fence supports is taken 2-3 meters;
  • Each rack requires a point foundation with a depth of 0.8 to 0.9 meters;
  • Recommended racks - from metal rectangular pipes with a section of 4x6 centimeters.

In addition to the general requirements for the state, local authorities can introduce their own standards, therefore, before starting the design, it is advisable to consult the regional service in charge of the general plan.

Design

Having defined the requirements, you can start designing. The basis for the project will be the cadastral plan of the site, indicating the boundaries. According to the plan, the total length of the perimeter and the size of each side are calculated separately. These dimensions will allow you to calculate the number of sections of the fence and the size of the additional sections. On a separate sheet of paper, a diagram of the site is applied on a scale, indicating all sizes. Do not forget about the gate for entry and the gate for entry.

When constructing a wooden fence, experts recommend making the distance between the supports no more than 2.5 meters, since with an increase in the span, the deflection of the horizontal crossbars increases, which can cause deformation of the structure.

We apply all dimensions to the drawing of an ordinary section of the fence, including the underground part of the pillar

For an ordinary section with a height of one and a half meters, a drawing is also being developed.

Having decided on the type of fence, a typical section of the fence is drawn separately on a scale, including the foundation for the support, with all dimensions.

The bottom line of the railing should be raised 10–15 cm above ground level, the posts should exceed the railing by 10 cm or more.

We accept for corner supports, gate posts and gates a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, intermediate 40x60 mm. If the soil is in the area of ​​neutral acidity, and the groundwater level is below one and a half meters, the racks can be installed by partial concreting or backfilling. In this case, the racks are buried in the soil to a depth of 0.8–1.2 meters, but not less than a fourth of their total height.

Material selection

From a huge number of types of wood for fences, it is best to choose conifers:

  • they grow everywhere;
  • due to the saturation of the structure with resin, the wood is resistant to moisture and solar radiation;
  • have a low cost.

Of course, you can make a fence of ash or oak, it will be more durable than a fence of spruce or pine, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny. The best choice is larch, the most resistant to moisture of all conifers, which has an adequate price.

If desired, in addition to edged boards, the fence can be made of cheaper materials - slab or unedged boards. Improvised materials may also come in handy - sawmill waste, dead wood, pallets (pallets), old door panels or window frames.

Be careful when using old pallets: they are often made from hardwoods, such as birch, which does not tolerate moisture and rots in the air.

Calculation of the need for materials

The calculation of the required amount of materials is carried out based on the geometric dimensions of the site. Suppose the site has a square shape measuring 30x30 meters, fenced on three sides with a picket fence 1.5 meters high, from the side of the passage - a blind fence 2 meters high, with a gate 2.5 meters wide and a gate 1 meter wide. The depth of soil freezing is 1.4 meters, the aquifer is at a depth of 3.3 meters.

Based on the size of the site, we determine the need for materials

Racks from a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, height 3.0 m

The length of the fence along the driveway

L1= 30–(2.5+1)=26.5 m

Number of racks

L1: 2.5 + 1+2 =26.5: 2.5 +3= 13.6

Since we have an additional section, we take the number of racks equal to 14.

To seal the ends of the racks, you will need a strip of 100 x 4 mm, 100 mm long, with a total length of 9.8 m.

The total length of the picket fence with a height of 1.5 m:

The number of racks from a pipe with a section of 40x60 mm and a height of 2.5 m will be:

L2: 2.5 -1 = 90:2.5 - 1 = 36 –1= 35 pcs.

We carry out horizontal logs from a board with a section of 40x100 mm long:

L3= 2.5 - 0.07 = 2.43 m

The number of lags is equal to the number of ordinary sections of the fence, multiplied by two:

(12 x 3 + 10) x 2= 92

For an additional section with a width of 1.5 m, two boards 40x100 with a length of 1.43 m are needed.

We fasten the logs to metal corners from a 30x3 profile, each 60 mm long, the total number is 94 pieces, equal to the number of logs.

For a fence 1.5 m high, we take planks 10 cm wide, 22 mm thick, 1.35 m high with a gap of 4 cm between the planks, 17 pickets will be required for an ordinary section, the total number:

17 x 46 +10 = 792 pcs.

For a blind fence 2 m high, planks 10 cm wide, 1.85 m high, 25 mm thick are needed. Their number will be equal to 25 pieces. per section, total:

25 x 11 = 275 pcs.

In addition, you will need self-tapping screws for attaching the corners to the posts and crossbars to the corners, nails for attaching the fence to the crossbars.

For foundations, based on the depth of pits of 1 m with a diameter of 40 mm, 6 - 6.5 m3 of crushed stone will be required.

Volume of wood:

  1. Boards 40x100 mm - 92 x 2.5 x 0.1 x 0.04 +2 x 1.5 x0.1 x 0.04 = 0.94 m3
  2. Boards 100x22 mm - 1.5 x 0.1 x 0.022 x 792 = 2.38 m3
  3. Boards 100x25 mm - 2 x 0.1 x 0.025 x 275 = 1.38 m3

Metal volume:

  1. Racks 60x60 - 3.0 x 14 \u003d 42 m.p.
  2. Racks 40 x 60 - 2.5 x 35 \u003d 87.5 m.
  3. Corner 30 x 3 60 mm long - 94 x 0.06 \u003d 5.64 m.
  4. Steel strip 100 x 4 - 9.8 m.

Wood will require impregnation and paint or a complex composition that protects wood from pests, adverse weather conditions and fire. For metal, a layer of soil is required, waterproofing for the underground part of the racks and a protective coating.

Since the fence boards do not do any work, the choice of thickness is determined by the flexibility. From experience it is known that for horizontal boards - a lag of 100 x 40 mm is enough, for a fence 1.5 m high with two attachment points, a board 22 mm thick is suitable, for a height of 2 m - a board 25 mm thick.

Required Tools

To complete the foundations, you will need a garden earthen drill or you will have to dig holes 1–1.2 meters deep and 40 cm in diameter manually.

The toolbox includes:

  • Electric jigsaw;
  • Circular saw with discs for metal work;
  • Welding machine;
  • Electroplaner;
  • Electric drill with drills for metal and wood;
  • Hacksaw for wood;
  • A hammer;
  • Pliers;
  • Screwdrivers;
  • Universal wrench;
  • Building level, horizontal and vertical;
  • Roulette;
  • Cord or twine;
  • Brushes.

Installation of a fence, step-by-step instructions for building a do-it-yourself

The fencing of the site is carried out in several stages:

  1. Rack preparation;
  2. Installation of fence sections;
  3. Marking in kind of the fence;
  4. Excavation;
  5. Installation of racks;
  6. Fencing installation.

There is another method of installation, when all elements are fixed in place sequentially, without preparation. This method has the right to exist, however, it will take more time, and it is inconvenient to mount corners for attaching lags to the installed rack.

1. Preparing racks

For each rack, in accordance with the drawing, for ordinary racks along the long sides, two corners are attached to self-tapping screws, for corner racks - on two adjacent sides. Plates - plugs are welded to the ends of the racks. The welds are cleaned, the racks are covered with primer, then with paint.2. Installation of picket fence sections

Pegs or reinforcement are driven into the installation site of the corner posts

A cord or twine is pulled along the perimeter of the site between the corner pegs. Using a tape measure, determine the installation sites of ordinary racks.

4. Earthworks

With a garden drill we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep for corner posts and fence posts along the driveway, a hole 0.8–1 m deep for the remaining posts. At the bottom of the pit we pour sand with a layer of 0.1 - 0.2 m, and compact it well.

5. Installation of racks

We carry out waterproofing of the underground part of the racks, wrapping them with bitumen-polymer material on mastic or covering them with a special waterproofing compound for metal. We install the racks, fixing them in the recesses with the help of pieces of reinforcement or corners. We fall asleep crushed stone with a layer of 20 - 25 cm, check the verticality of the support, tamp it down, moisten the layer with water. The operation is repeated until the pit is leveled with the ground surface.

6. Installation of the fence

We mount the prepared fence panels. If the posts are installed correctly, at the right distance, height and without distortion, the fence sections are mounted without problems. The fence lags are installed on the corners fixed on the racks, and screwed with self-tapping screws.

7. Painting the fence

Painting and protecting the wood of the fence can be done in different ways, which are discussed in the next section.

Materials for protecting and tinting wood

Until recently, wood stain, drying oil and paint PF-115 were offered to protect and color wood, but now eyes widen on the shelves of stores with such products. Wood coloring should have the following qualities:

  • Resistance to low and high temperatures, precipitation, wind;
  • Resistance to sunlight;
  • Resistance to pests, rot and fungus;
  • Durability;
  • Fire safety.

For protection and tinting, compositions are offered:

  • Paints;
  • Enamel;
  • azure
  • Belinka, Slovenia;
  • Tikkurila, Finland;
  • ALPINA, Germany;
  • Teknos, Finland;
  • AQUATEX, RF;
  • Yaroslavl colors.

In order for the fence to serve for a long time, you will have to work hard: processing takes place in several stages:

  • dirt cleaning,
  • grinding;
  • Dust removal;
  • Primer with a complex composition that gives wood fire resistance, resistance to rot, fungus;
  • tinting.

There are many options for painting the picket fence, if you wish, you can add your own method to the existing ones.

Wooden fences undeservedly faded into the background. And absolutely in vain! Of course, in terms of stability and reliability, the fence made of boards significantly loses to its brick and concrete counterparts, but a minimum of time, effort and money is spent on the construction of a wooden fence.

At the same time, you can handle all the necessary activities on your own. By showing a little imagination and doing everything according to the instructions, you will create a truly original and interesting design.


What to build a fence from?

Before proceeding with the construction, we pay due attention to the choice of source material. For the arrangement of the fence we use only high-quality dense wood. The wood of oak, aspen, ash, Siberian larch, alder, mulberry is perfect.

Among all the listed options, the most interesting is the Siberian larch. A fence built from it will serve as long as possible. If one of the main enemies of most types of wood is moisture, then larch only becomes stronger from contact with water.



We limit the use of pine except for the arrangement of the fence shield, in case of breakage or wear of the fence, such material can be replaced without much financial cost and effort.


Picket fence - pine

Important! And in no case do we use birch for the construction of the fence - it is extremely unstable and short-lived.

It is also important to choose a quality material for the manufacture of supports. With wooden spans, wooden poles will be best combined. You can either dig them into the ground or attach them to special metal stands (consoles) concreted in pre-created recesses.

Important! To prolong the life of wood, it must first be impregnated. It will reduce the intensity of the harmful effects of moisture, air, fungus and other harmful microorganisms on the building material.


To fix the effect, it is recommended to treat the wood with a special dye, for example, Swedish paint. It will give the material a very beautiful shade. If desired, a dye of a different color can be applied over the dried Swedish paint.


To prepare Swedish paint, we need:

  • copper sulfate - 250 g;
  • salt - 250 g;
  • iron minium - 250 g;
  • drying oil - 230 ml;
  • flour - 570 g;
  • water - about 4.5 liters.

Following the given proportions, you can prepare any required amount of dye.


The paint is quite economical. About 200-250 ml of dye is spent on covering 1 m 2 of the surface. The above recipe allows you to prepare a golden color paint. If you want to get a different shade, replace the minium with manganese peroxide, ocher, or another component of your choice.

Swedish paint is prepared in the following order:

  • paste is cooked. To prepare it, stir the flour in 3 liters of water;
  • the finished paste is passed through a sieve - this allows you to remove lumps from the mixture;
  • strained paste is again put on fire. Salt and copper sulfate are added to the mixture. Constantly stir the mixture, achieving complete dissolution of vitriol;
  • while continuing to stir the paste, add drying oil to it, and then pour in a certain amount of water (usually about 1.5 l) until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

We apply the finished paint to the wood in a double layer.


Table. How to paint a wooden fence

PaintsBinderLife time
AcrylicPolyacrylate6-20 years old
Water dispersionorganic solvents>20 years
OilyDrying oil2-3 years
silicateliquid incandescent glass20 years
Siliconesilicone resin20 years
EnamelAlkyd resin10 years

For example, you can assemble a fence according to the wattle principle. Boards are attached in a bent state. Trying to straighten up, they will fit snugly enough against the supporting pillars.

Another great option is to fill the space between the supports with wood siding. We fasten the sheathing boards, starting from the bottom, withstanding a 25 mm overlap.

The fences made in the form of blinds look no less original. By laying the boards with a downward slope towards the street, you will create an invisible fence that is resistant to wind loads.



Also, the boards can be nailed from the end. To perform the highest quality sheathing, we first make markings on each rack.

In the case of installing metal poles, they can be hidden by sheathing the racks on both sides. From above, we close the metal supports with wooden plugs.

If desired, you can make the fence more original and on wooden support posts. We make inclined grooves in the supports, and then insert the ends of the lamellas into them. Additionally, we fasten each bar with self-tapping screws. To hide the attachment points, we close the screws with wooden plates. We crown the upper part of the supports with plugs.

To make the fence look more original and modern, we can fill the boards with a small gap (up to 15 mm). At the same time, the narrower the boards will be (of course, within reasonable limits), the more interesting the design of the fence will turn out.

You can also use boards of different widths. When choosing this sheathing method, be sure to make sure that the pattern on adjacent sections matches.

There are a lot of options for decorating wood. Choose the one you like and start building the fence. You already have all the knowledge necessary for this.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Successful work!

Video - DIY wooden fence

Decorative fence with your own hands. A photo







If you walk through a modern Russian village and pay attention to the fences, you can draw some conclusions. In the case when the houses have been standing for a long time, several decades, they are surrounded by an old wooden picket fence, and if the house is new, there is a profiled sheet fence. More and more rural residents prefer this material. But a wooden fence is beautiful, aesthetic, environmentally friendly, easy to install and repair, does not heat up, it exudes warmth and reliability. If you treat the tree with a protective compound, the service life increases by tens of years. Yes, and you can decorate it in different ways. You will learn how to make a wooden fence with your own hands by reading this article.

INSTALLATION OF POSTS FOR A WOODEN FENCE WITH YOUR HANDS

We start the device of a wooden fence with. We bought a metal square profile 6 meters long on the market,with a wall width of 6 cm,and grinder cut it into pieces 2 m 40 cm. Iron covers were welded on top so that natural precipitation did not get inside, and painted with gray paint. The part that will be in the ground, 90 cm, treated with bituminous mastic.

In the place where we will put the supports, we will stretch and fasten the lace so that they stand on the same line.

Take a garden drill with an auger diameter of 13 cmand drill to a depth of 90 cm.

In order not to often take out the drill and measure the depth, we stick a piece of white electrical tape on the auger at a distance of 90 cmfrom the earth. To waterproof and protect the metal from moisture, cut off a piece of roofing material, roll it into a tube and lower it into the pit. If hedgehogs live in the area around your site, before throwing a pole into a hole, check if a prickly friend has fallen into it. We had just that. It's good that we looked down before installing.

In general, having taken out the hedgehog and sent it to the forest, we will lower the pole into the pit. Align it vertically with a level and fill it with gravel, ramming it well with a heavy crowbar.

Concreting the pole does not make sense. Before winter, we installed several pieces for a wooden fence with our own hands, half concreted, half not. In the spring, we did not notice any difference between the strength of the installation of the pillars, so we refused to continue pouring concrete.

So that the posts for a wooden fence with their own hands stand at the same height of 150 cm, let's use , a device consisting of two flasks into which water is poured, connected by a hose.

To do this, we attach one flask to the first pillar, lean the other flask against the second, and, raising or lowering the pillar in the pit, equalize the liquid levels in both flasks. We fix the second support and also fill it with large gravel. In the same way, we will install all the posts for a wooden fence with our own hands.

For the veins, we used a metal profile measuring 2 by 4 cm, its desired length and painting. We will attach them to the poles with bolts and nuts. Drill holes in the log and pole, insert the bolt, tighten with a nut.

The horizontality of the lag is constantly checked by the level. Pillars for installing boards are ready.

PREPARATION OF BOARDS FOR A WOODEN FENCE WITH YOUR HANDS

We will build a fence not from a picket fence, but from cleaves 10 cm wide, 2 cm thick. Such material seemed to us more beautiful and interesting. At the nearest sawmill, we ordered pine boards, asking them to be planed on both sides. In order to have less waste, the length of the tesin should be taken 6 meters.

From scraps then you can makewoodenstand for flowers , or .

The height of the fence will be 1 m 80 cm, which is enough to hide from prying eyes.

Having marked the board into segments, we cut it with an electric jigsaw. Since the planed board is only on two sides, we will process the edges with an electric planer, placing the board on the edge.

To spend less paint, we will correct all the roughness with a grinder with a grinding nozzle, as we did with .

To process the fence board with your own hands from rotting and mold, apply an antiseptic to it with a brush for enhanced wood protection. After it dries, paint the gaps with pear-colored Aquatex, as that we once did.

After the paint dries, proceed to the fence device.

WOODEN FENCE OWN HANDS

We will fasten the boards to the logs with self-tapping screws, with a drill at the end, 41 mm long.

We use 2 pieces for each board. We will tighten them with a screwdriver. If the self-tapping screw does not drill well into the metal log, you can first make a hole in it with a drill with a drill with a diameter of 3 mmand then tighten the screw.

Let's start fixing the board from the edge of the wooden one with our own hands. Then we again take the hydraulic level and attach the second board to the logs at some distance from the first, leveling it in height with this device. We will do this along the entire length of the fence.

The hut is strong with constipation, and the yard with a fence. It's good when the neighbor is close and the fence is low. Without a fence and constipation, you will not be protected from a thief. There is no fence without poles. The higher the fences, the better the neighbors.

Only a few proverbs testify to the fact that since ancient times a lot of attention has been paid to fences. Time passes, technologies and building materials change, but the desire to protect your site with wooden material does not go away. What is the reason for such love for wooden fences, how to make a beautiful wooden fence with your own hands - let's try to figure it out.

Peculiarities

In central Russia, wood has always been considered the most popular building material. Its accessibility made it possible to build huts and baths, make furniture and utensils even for very poor people. Another thing is places where wood is a luxury. In this case, a wooden fence is a sign of the wealth of the owner of the house:

  • Thus, the first feature of the use of wood in the creation of a fence can be called a tradition based on accessibility.
  • The second feature is a demonstration of wealth or one's own skills and abilities.
  • An important factor in the use of such fences is practicality: for example, you can put up the simplest fence to protect livestock, and if necessary, dismantle it and transfer it to a new pasture.
  • Environmental friendliness is another feature. A bench placed under the fence will allow you to enjoy the aroma of essential oils emitted by boards or slats. Wood will never be hot or cold like metal. It will perfectly absorb, unlike stone, most of the street sounds.
  • If necessary, in most cases, you can replace a fragment of the fence or repair the existing one.
  • Limiting a large perimeter (for example, a private house with a garden) is a costly business if you put up a stone or metal fence. But a do-it-yourself braid can do for free.

Summarizing all of the above, we can name two main functions of a wooden fence:

  • protection of the territory and households;
  • decorative design.

At the same time, it can protect:

  • the house and the entire household plot;
  • only courtyard buildings with a corral for animals;
  • only a front garden;
  • flower bed or flower garden.

According to the degree of penetration of the gaze, a wooden fence can be:

  • deaf;
  • translucent;
  • transparent.

Advantages and disadvantages

Indeed, such a fence has a lot of advantages compared to other materials:

  • comfortable temperature of wooden elements at any time of the year and day;
  • the possibility of self-manufacturing and installation without invited craftsmen and complex tools;
  • huge scope for decoration;
  • the choice of color depends solely on the desire of the owner, not the manufacturer;
  • the ability to apply unusual geometry and shape in general;
  • goes well with stone and brick, metal and concrete, mesh and waste material.

It would seem that there are no shortcomings. But this is not so: a wooden fence requires constant care. But if this is done regularly, then he will delight with his beauty for many years.

The service life will depend on the climatic zone and soil quality.

Kinds

Before starting the construction of the fence of the required site, the owner must answer several questions:

  • what function should the fence perform;
  • what will be its height?
  • it will be deaf or transparent;
  • How will it open?
  • whether additional materials will be used (brick, stone, etc.);
  • what will the pillars be made of (metal, logs, bricks);
  • what type of wood will be used for pillars and spans;
  • whether the help of specialists is required;
  • what costs can be expected.

After analyzing all the answers, you can choose one of the types (or combine them):

  • Herringbone. Also, such a fence is called a ladder or an American. From afar, the surface resembles deaf siding. Upon closer inspection, you can see that there are gaps between the boards located at an angle. This kind of custom design will protect the site from roadside dust, but will let air flow through. Strong wind will not damage the fence.

  • Classic variant- this is a vertical or horizontal tightly fitted canvas. It can be based on a brick or stone foundation, or only on wooden, metal, brick or stone pillars. Such a fence is suitable both for a private house or a cottage, and for a summer residence, that is, for those who want to leave their privacy as such.

  • Wattle- the most emotionally warm type of fence. It was invented so long ago that now I can’t remember exactly when. It is still considered commonplace among the Slavic peoples. But recently it is often used as a decorative element for low fences. At the same time, blind high fences are made - wickerwork, which look amazing in combination with other materials.

  • barrage ranch style has long ceased to be only American. Style is another matter. In the usual design, such a fence also serves to create a barrier for animals. But there are also beautiful options for fencing the adjacent territories.

You need to be prepared for the fact that this fence will not hide from prying eyes. Yes, and it is suitable for a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe fence, possibly a front garden.

  • Lattice was once considered an unusual fence. Crossed at an angle of 45 degrees, the slats make the design very airy. Liana-like plants, grapes will perfectly curl along it. Over time, a transparent lattice can turn into a living opaque hedge. Such sections, interspersed with wickerwork or a blank fence, look even more unusual.

  • Palisade appeared, perhaps, at the same time as the wattle fence, but it was used to protect the entire village. The strong and strong deaf protection will reliably protect from uninvited guests. Especially if the vertical stakes or logs have a pointed top edge. The durability of such a fence will give the foundation and brick (stone) pillars. But there is also an easier version of the picket fence - bamboo. It does not last as long, but it is much easier to mount it. Moreover, modern manufacturers offer a rolled ready-made fence.

  • Fence- one of the most popular types. So much so that they now produce a metal picket fence. This is a universal fence of different heights and widths of pickets. They are easy and quick to attach to wooden veins. If wooden canvases are placed close to each other, then passers-by will be visible from the site, but from the street you can only see what is happening in the yard by stopping. For decorative design of such a fence use paint, varnish. It is made carved and multi-level, combined with other materials.

The picket fence without supporting pillars and crossbars looks completely unusual. Such a fence is also called a palisade, but still the essence is not in the name, but in the aesthetic and functional appeal. Recently, a horizontal picket fence is gaining popularity, as it is more economical and easy to install.

  • checkerboard- a mixture of a picket fence, a palisade and a classic fence. In fact, this is a fence, but nailed in two rows (from the street and the yard) in such a way that there are no gaps between the boards and the fence becomes deaf. In this case, both sides are front. In order to protect personal space from sight and encroachment, they make it from wider shtaketin.

Color solutions

Once upon a time, wooden fences were not painted at all. And even now, a rustic picket fence, enclosing an ordinary garden “on the back”, is hardly exposed to paints and varnishes. Nevertheless, they always try to ennoble the fence in front of the house, the front garden.

Color solutions for this choose a variety. Starting from varnishing, so as not to deprive the tree of the pattern given by nature. This method can give larch the color of cedar, and pine - the color of walnut. For the same purpose, as well as for protection against insects, various stains and other impregnating substances are used. This option will bring the color of the fence closer to the color of the pillars, foundation, gate, house.

The wooden picket fence, the lattice and even the palisade are covered with multi-colored paints. Particularly interesting is the palisade in the form of colored pencils. Such a playground fence will protect from road dust, street debris and strong winds.

If the house was painted, then it is logical to cover the fence with paint, creating a single ensemble of the entire estate. To do this, you can use the patterns of flowers, animals, floral ornaments. Sometimes two colors are used for this: for the background and for the template. Moreover, template drawings are most often painted white. In other cases, they draw real pictures on the facade of the house and the fence.

But still, often the tree is left with its appearance. After all, it is for naturalness, warmth and naturalness it is appreciated.

Decor

In addition to paints and varnishes, there are many other ways to decorate wooden fences. Before dwelling on any decor option, you can look at 3D samples on the Internet to see the fence “live” from different angles and in different materials:

  • Some types of fencing are fence decor in themselves. For example, a lattice or wickerwork, a checkerboard or a log palisade.
  • Shtaketins, burned at the stake or using a burner, will not only get rid of insects and their larvae, but will also become a real designer find in the design of a Russian estate, a robber harbor or Berendey's kingdom.
  • The use of stone and brick will give solidity and durability to the entire structure. But it is also a wonderful decorating technique, as such fences look very beautiful.

  • Metal is not only a reliable protection for the fence itself, but also a beautiful decorative element. Forged elements will give an aesthetically attractive appearance and reliability to a wooden canvas.
  • An old fence can be updated in a non-standard way. If it has not been varnished for a long time, then it will be difficult to do this: it will absorb an incredible amount of paints and varnishes, but at the same time it will no longer have the proper appearance. You can hide this significant drawback by using overhead decorative elements: flower pots, climbing vertical greenery, birdhouses, old waste materials in the form of flat toys, pictures, etc. The fence itself, of course, will not save it, but it will move it away for some time its dismantling and installation of a new fence.
  • A photo grid will also help transform an old fence. This modern decorative material will help hide the flaws of any fence. You just need to choose the right material and pattern of the photo grid.

  • Log saw cuts are a very beautiful decor option. With it, you can turn a transparent fence into a deaf one, hide holes in the place of damaged pickets.
  • Wattle can zone a place of rest in the country. If climbing plants or artificial sunflowers are woven into it, then such a place is stylized as a Ukrainian welcoming hut.

Design style

Looking at photos of various types of fences, you can see that modern design gravitates towards minimalism and urban style. Whether it is worth applying this to a wooden fence is the decision of the owner. But, of course, it is worth paying attention to new trends:

  • For example, a combination of wood and gabions with pergons. Metal cages 25-30 cm wide filled with stones and pebbles are pergons. Such cages can act as a support for a tree, a foundation, or a full-fledged section of a fence. Gabion - the same metal mesh with stone, but may have the shape of a larger parallelepiped than pergon. Or maybe, in general, be any other form. Figures - gabions can be sections of the fence or perform a decorative (and at the same time protective) function at the gate or gate.

  • A modern palisade is not at all colored pencils made of slabs, but a monumental structure made of timber, made in an urban style. The combination of granite and marble with this type of wood creates a feeling of power and strength.
  • Perhaps the mixture of wood, metal and bottle glass can be attributed to eclecticism. This fence has a minimum of wood and a maximum of transparency. A vintage door reminds the owner of the time when this material was collected for their fence. The unusual way of combining wood and glass made this fence exclusive.

  • If you want to have a solid wooden fence, then you can think about combining wood with stone or brick. A rustic-style fence is naturalness, massiveness, and reliability. American country style is less rough, but no less robust. A solid fence using brick pillars will serve its owners for a long time.
  • The combination of metal and wood will make the fence durable. Such a modern fence can only perform a protective function or be a real product.

Wood is such a comfortable material that it can be combined with any material. The main thing is to turn on the fantasy and choose the style of the future fence.

How to do it yourself?

The quality of the fence depends, among other things, on the type of tree. Pine due to the emitted resins is less exposed to climatic influences. And Siberian larch is a hard material that can withstand heavy loads. In addition, from contact with water, it improves its qualities.

Also use oak, aspen, ash, alder, mulberry. It is not recommended to make birch fences: it is short-lived and quickly cracks. There are also original tree species designed for a large pocket or a reliable bank card. To name just a few: abashi, akazhu, bangkirai, kasai, kekatong, merbau, tiger tree.

The next step after choosing the style and type of wood will be the calculation of the material. It is clear that for this need to accurately represent the project according to the drawing. But still, let's try to calculate the number of pickets for a deaf or translucent fence.

For this:

  1. Measure the length of the future fence. For example, 50 m (5000 cm) when using boards 10 cm wide.
  2. Calculate the amount of picket fence for a blind fence: 5000 cm / 10 cm = 500 boards.
  3. Calculation for a translucent fence: the width of the gap between the boards is added to the width of the fence. For example: 10 cm (shtaketin) + 10 cm (gap) = 20 cm. Therefore, for such a fence you will need: 5000 cm / 20 cm = 250 boards.

If the price is indicated in the store per cubic meter, then in this case the thickness of one board is multiplied by the length and width. The result is multiplied by the number of boards. This will be the number of cubic meters.

For example, the thickness of the fence is 2 cm, length - 200 cm, width - 10 cm. It is necessary to convert the dimensions to meters: 0.02x2x0.10 \u003d 0.004. Multiply the result obtained by the number of boards that are needed for the fence: 0.004x500 = 2 cubic meters of picket fence must be purchased for such a fence.

The number of boards in a cubic meter is counted in reverse order. At the same time, in all cases of calculation, it is necessary to provide a margin for an unforeseen event.

For crossbars and pillars, the material must be selected very carefully. If the fence is translucent, then the distance between the posts is 2 m. For a blind fence, a distance of 1.5 m is determined. The digging depth depends on the soil, usually it is 1-1.5 m.

As a rule, the fence has 2 crossbars. Therefore, the length of the fence must be multiplied by 2 plus up to 5 m of stock - this will be the need for crossbars for a picket fence.

All other options for installing a wooden fence are so individual that they need to be calculated independently. Having decided on the total amount of all building material, you need to take care of the tools. Depending on the type of fence, this set will also be different. You will most likely need the following tools:

  • saw, hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • axe;
  • shovel;
  • roulette;
  • a hammer;
  • level;
  • rope, twine;
  • earth drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • electric drill;

In addition, you will need building materials:

  • picket fence, boards (it is better to impregnate them with a protective compound before installation);
  • transverse bars, crossbars;
  • supporting pillars;
  • pegs for marking;
  • sand, gravel;
  • cement;
  • galvanized fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, hinges are also covered with drying oil before installation).

The whole sequence of work will consist of several stages:

  • support installation;
  • fastening crossbars (if the fence is vertical);
  • frame sheathing.

Mounting

There are 2 fundamentally different installation options: with and without foundation installation. The first option is more laborious, but more durable. The fence according to the second option is much faster and easier to do. Let's take a look at it:

  • Territory preparation. Since the bottom edge of the boards will touch the ground, the area must be cleared of grass, stones and bumps.
  • With the help of pointed wooden pegs 60 cm long, the territory is marked out according to a pre-drawn plan. The distance between the pegs is the distance between the future supports. The pegs are looped with a rope, which is pulled tight enough. At this point, you need to check how smoothly the markup is made.
  • The pegs are taken out one at a time, and in their place, wells are drilled for supports with a depth of 50 cm (for a flower bed or a low picket fence) to 1.5 m (for a solid massive fence).
  • The supports are driven into the ground. There are several installation methods: clogging, backfilling, concreting. But before using any, you need to take care of a wooden support, namely: treat it with a special compound, wrap it with roofing material, cement it into a metal cylinder. All this will save the post from rotting. Install supports with a plumb bob. Usually, the bottom of the pit is sprinkled with sand and compacted tightly, then a post is installed, covered with gravel and compacted again. The sequence is repeated, with each layer of sand wetted with water.

  • A nail is driven into the top of each post, after which all the nails are pulled together with a rope. In this way, the pillars are aligned.
  • The veins are nailed to the supports. Mounting height may vary. Most often done as follows: the height of the fence is conventionally divided into 3 parts. The lower crossbar is nailed at a height of 1/3, the top - at a height of 2/3. It is important to choose the right nails: too short will not hold the crossbar, too large a diameter will lead to cracking of the wood.
  • Fastening the picket fence in a deaf or translucent way. Top edge alignment. Giving it a decorative design with a saw and a jigsaw.
  • Protection of support posts with caps (plastic, metal, wood, glass).
  • Impregnation and painting. If the boards were installed without pre-treatment, then they should be impregnated with drying oil or a protective compound. You need to do this in 2 layers.

Then the fence is painted.

Paint should be chosen for outdoor work. Or, to preserve the naturalness of the wood, prefer varnish.

Fastening methods

If conventional fastening methods do not suit you, then you can find more interesting solutions:

  • Instead of shtaketin use croaker. Such material will decorate the fence in a rustic antique style. A rounded log, on the contrary, looks very modern.
  • You can bend the boards in such a way that you get an Austrian braid - a double-sided fence with minimal gaps.
  • You can use planken. This is a kind of larch facade boards, in which all corners are beveled or rounded. Due to this, the boards are not fastened close to each other, but with a micro-distance. This method of fastening the planken does not allow the boards to swell from moisture and deform.

  • Building wood siding. To do this, the boards are fixed horizontally, starting from the bottom, overlapping by about 25 mm.
  • Creation of horizontal blinds. To do this, notches are made in the supports, into which the boards are inserted at a slight angle. This method will practically close the review, but will significantly save the amount of material. In addition, it is ideal for places with strong winds, as the fence will not be subject to wind loads.
  • The fence can be mounted diagonally. The complexity of this method lies in the constant measurement of the angle at the beginning of the installation. But such a fence will look great, especially if its upper edge is left in the form of a palisade. With the diagonal method, the fence can also be deaf or translucent.

  • You can use the checkerboard method, which has already been mentioned above. Such a fence can be vertical or horizontal. In this case, the length of the shtaketin can be the same or different (a more complicated option, but also more interesting).

If thin untreated birch branches and trunks are passed very tightly through the crossbars, then such a wattle fence will be cheap, but it will protect no worse.

In addition, there are fastening methods when the boards are fastened between the support posts or hiding the posts. The first case will require more time and accuracy.

If the pillars are brick or stone, then other methods are used. Sectional installation of spans between columns is possible here. This work is done with an assistant. It is more time consuming, but the fence will last for a long time.

In order for a wooden fence to please with its appearance for a long time, you need:

  • before installation, impregnate the wood with an antiseptic;
  • check the absence of anthills at the site of the future fence;
  • install a protective visor not only on the support poles, but also above the spans (if this does not fit into the chosen style, then you can try to secure the fence with a glass or polycarbonate visor);
  • get rid of grass along the fence in a timely manner, this will reduce the level of humidity;
  • after installation, cover the entire tree with a primer, this is done only in dry weather on dry wood;
  • once every 2-3 years to carry out its painting.

It is good to protect the wooden fence from fungus and cracking with Swedish paint or yacht varnish.

Many people water the boards with hot drying oil before installation.

Since the untreated board loses moisture under the action of ultraviolet rays, it is the impregnation that neutralizes this drawback. Many use special UV hardeners, which are sold in hardware stores, as an impregnation. They process the boards several times with a primer so that the impregnation penetrates as deep as possible into the wood. After that, the tree is covered with paint or varnish.

Unlike drying oil and varnish, Swedish paint is a homemade composition of:

  • 250 g of copper sulfate;
  • 250 g iron minium;
  • 250 g of table salt;
  • 230 ml of drying oil or linseed oil;
  • 570 g rye flour;
  • 4.5 liters of water.

According to these proportions, you can prepare any amount of paint, but remember: the paint thickens very quickly, so you need to either cook in small portions or paint in several hands. Mixture consumption: 210-270 ml per square meter.

This recipe will give the wood a golden color. To obtain a different color, red lead is replaced with ocher, hydrogen peroxide, or another color component.

Prepare the paint in this way:

  • cook a paste from flour and 3 liters of water;
  • to remove lumps, the substance is passed through a sieve;
  • strained glue is again put on fire, adding salt and vitriol;
  • you need to constantly stir the mixture, waiting for the vitriol to completely dissolve;
  • while continuing to stir, gradually add drying oil, then water (a liquid composition of a homogeneous consistency should be obtained).

The paint is applied in two layers. Do not forget about fasteners metal elements. They also need to be coated with special solutions from rust. Loose metal parts are reinforced with dowels.

But during operation, the fence may require not only preventive painting, but also repair. If preventive work against rye did not help, then the metal parts are simply changed. If we are talking about wooden elements, then it is necessary to determine the degree of deterioration.

If the pillar-support is loosened, but not rotted, then it is carefully dug up about 20 cm deep and the same width. Aligning the support vertically, the pit is covered with broken bricks and poured with cement. For a few days they put props. The reason for such a game of support is the insufficient depth of the pit during installation and a violation of the installation technology.

If the post is rotten in its lower part, then the entire post or its lower part can be replaced. It's probably easier to replace the entire pole. But if this is not possible, proceed as follows: the pillar is dug out from the side and the rotten part is sawn off. A concrete support is prepared in advance instead of the rotten part. Holes for bolts are drilled in its upper part.

A concrete pile is installed in a pit, galvanized bolts are inserted into the holes. The entire structure is coated with an antiseptic. A wooden pole is put on the bolts, leveled along the slope and fixed with spacers. Crushed stone or broken brick is poured into the pit, and all this is tightly compacted. After a few days, the spacers are removed.

If the pickets have rotted or become unusable, then they need to be replaced. After dismantling, the repair site is treated with an antiseptic and dried, only after that a new board is installed.

The climate of any region of the world will affect wooden fences: somewhere there is too much precipitation, which causes the wood to rot; the hot sun dries it out and causes cracking. Dust storms peel off the paint.

All this warns the owners of wooden fences: only timely care will extend its service life.

Beautiful examples

Above, many examples were given of how, with the help of various types of wooden fence, you can decorate a summer cottage or a country house, a front garden or a flower bed. But there are so many beautiful examples that It is worth paying attention to at least a few more:

  • To put up such a wonderful fence, you do not need a lot of money. Only a jigsaw, sandpaper, a carving knife, and the desire of the master to make a real masterpiece out of a simple fence. And even though the fence seems shabby by time, only a true craftsman knows that a fairy tale lives behind it.

  • The croaker is a substandard board, and therefore it costs quite a bit. The more valuable such a fence. After sanding and processing, the usual croaker turned not only into a place of rest, but also into a kind of entrance to another interesting and unusual world.

  • Such a fence will require painstaking work. A board that, at first glance, does not seem to be edged, is unlikely to be. Careful work with a jigsaw, grinder, coupled with the work of a bricklayer, makes this fence an exclusive, worthy of the highest praise.

  • A wooden fence, combined with a stone-metal gabion, makes you stop not only to consider this unusual sight, but also to think about deep philosophical topics. In our life, everything coexists in a strange way: warm wood with cold metal, soft board with hard stone.

  • This fence, like the house on the site, is protected from all misfortunes for a long time: strong stone supports, stone foundation, Swedish paint on a checkerboard. A very caring owner took care not only of his property, but also of his own time. After all, such a fence will not need repair for a long time.

  • But if the previous option is very expensive, then this one is very budgetary. Such a fence cannot be fully called wooden, rather, combined. And it is subject to every non-lazy owner. With a large number of inserted branches, you can achieve good protection for your site.

  • The article mentioned many different options for wattle, but this one is special. So organically, softly, it looks on the site. At the same time, it perfectly zones the entire territory. Here you can drink tea with the company or hide from everyone and sit in silence. The unusual shape of the spiral makes the desire to get to the center even greater.

  • To make such a horizontal non-standard checkerboard, you need to think completely outside the box. Different widths and lengths of boards, gaps where they, it would seem, should not be. Beautiful, unexpected, interesting.

  • Even if you look very carefully, it is still difficult for a simple viewer to understand how this fence was made. It is convex, as if woven. The transverse beam seems to let the boards through itself. Moreover, the appearance of the burnt wood makes the fence completely unusual.

  • And this combined fence again breaks stereotypes: a rounded habitual top and a completely unusual form of connection of two materials. Certainly beautiful. Also such interesting colors.

  • The value of this fence is that it decorates not an elite cottage settlement on Rublyovka, but an ordinary rural street. And if the owners of this non-standard house and the Austrian wickerwork created such beauty in an ordinary village, it means that men on Russian land have not yet died out.
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