How to make an interior door in an apartment. How to make a wooden door with your own hands - a step by step guide

We will tell you how to properly install an interior door. You will learn about the intricacies of choosing components and how you can understand the professionalism of the master. Interior doors must stand in their original packaging for at least 5 days in the room in which they will be installed.

Preparing boards for the door frame

To begin with, we will check the height and width of the opening and make sure that the doors with the frame will easily enter them.

Using a laser level, we estimate the difference in floor height on each side of the doorway. In our case, it was 2 mm, and we need to take this distance into account when making the door frame. Let's say a few words about the wizard's tool:

For a quality installation, we can not do with one hammer and chisel. We need a circular saw with a turntable. Now with its help we will trim the door frame blanks. It would be very difficult to cut a beautifully veneered blank with a conventional hacksaw. Let's start marking the door frame. With a sharp knife, mark the places for trimming the upper part.

The plate allows you to immediately take into account the gap of the door in the box. Usually it is 2-3 mm. In the arsenal of a real master, there should be such a device that allows you to keep the door in a vertical position:

We make a serif of places for loops. Usually it is 20-25 cm from the edge.

We put one of the boards of the door frame on the door and set the bottom gap. Usually it is 8-10 mm. As a rule, interior doors are assembled without thresholds. With a sharp knife, we make notches for the hinges on the board of the door frame. Mark the top edge of the board. We lay the left and right boards of the door frame together, set a slight shift of a few millimeters to compensate for the difference in floor height marked by the level.

In the places of subsequent cutting of the door frame boards, we need to carefully remove the wrapped veneer with a chisel. If this is not done, then when cutting on the machine, the board will stand up skewed and we will not be able to perform a perfect gash at 45 °. We install the board on the saw machine, and turn the saw itself for sawing at 45 °.

The chipped veneer board fits snugly against the machine at the rear. Carefully cut at 45°. Three parts of the door frame are ready:

We mark the loops. This process has one feature - the loop is installed with the logo up.

Marks for hinges on the board of the door frame are best done with a sharp knife. If you are not sure of yourself, do it with a pencil, but remember that it has a certain thickness, which can give an error. When using a knife, notches are applied at an angle towards the future sample. This will allow you to tightly and beautifully install the hinges in the future.

Another necessary tool for the master is a manual milling machine. We set the sample width to the width of the loop. The sampling depth is adjusted according to the thickness of the loop. With the help of a manual milling machine, work on making samples in the door frame board is completed in a minute.

A properly adjusted cutter will not remove anything superfluous:

During work, the master must pay attention to his extreme notches and not go beyond them. The same work done with a chisel and a hammer will not always be neat, and it will also take more time.

Since the loops have rectangular edges, we need to remove the roundness at the corners with a chisel. To do this, we will make two or three notches in the corners. So we are guaranteed to remove the excess and not touch the wood behind the sample. This work must be done carefully and slowly. It depends on it how beautiful the hinges in the door frame will look.

An important point - the loop must enter the sample with effort. It is recommended that before screwing the hinge, drill holes of a smaller diameter compared to the screws. In order not to drill through the floor, place a stop under the door frame board.

We drill holes for the second loop.

Door frame installation

Now we need to make holes for the screws with which we will fasten the door frame from the hinge side.

There is a rule here: the holes are made in the middle of the longitudinal and transverse axis, that is, for the upper loop they should be made a little lower, and for the lower loop a little higher. By this we achieve uniform fastening of the box to the doorway. The recess should be deep enough so that the twisted screw does not interfere with the installation of the hinges.

We will make potai in places where we will fasten the elements of the door frame to each other. Depending on the thickness of the bar of the box, we will make a sweat either higher or lower.

The main rule is that the sweat is performed at an angle of 90 ° with respect to the cut. In the upper element of the door frame, we sew in the center. Thus, the fastening of the door frame will be carried out on each side in three places.

We twist the wood screws into the elements of the box. Here it is important to accurately combine the parts and prevent their mutual displacement. If everything is done correctly, we will get the perfect angle. On the other hand, we will perform the same operations.

We will install the assembled box in the doorway, and so that the box does not fall, we will put a few pieces of cardboard. Set the laser level and check the verticality of the door frame from the side of the hinges.

Now we need wedges with which we will adjust the door gap and level the box. They can be made from scraps of box bars using a circular saw. First of all, we need to install wedges in places where we will fasten the door frame to the walls.

Additionally, we hammer one wedge into each of the upper corners of the box. We check the verticality of the installation with a laser level. If necessary, knock out or change the wedges.

Expose the door frame should be flush with the outer wall of the room. We carry out the fastening of the box through the made sweat in the loops.

Be sure to install wedges in places where we fasten the box. They should stay there forever. The door frame on the hinged side is fixed in two places and has three wedges. But the feigned side of the box has only one wedge on top. We will exhibit it after hanging the door. Do not forget to use the level to check the horizontal installation of the box. Since we took into account the unevenness of the floor when trimming the box bars, our level now shows the horizon.

While we are working on the door leaf, the pre-installed door frame must be partially foamed.

It takes some time for the foam to set a little before we hang the doors. First, the foam is applied in small portions from the inside of the room. The feigned part of the door frame is partially foamed, in a dashed way. This is necessary so that we have the opportunity to move the feigned part of the door frame, aligning it with the door leaf. Too much mounting foam should not be laid.

Installation of door hardware

Now the door is again placed on a special stand. We will be installing door hardware.

And again we mark the hinges, but already on the door leaf. We make marks with a sharp knife at an angle with respect to the loops. Using a milling machine, we carry out sampling under the hinges on the door leaf.

We also align the corners with a chisel. We get the perfect selection for the hinges in the door leaf. It is ideal because our loop is inserted inside with force, which means that there will be no gaps.

Consider how to properly drill holes for screws.

Drilling starts at an angle, leaning on the edge of the hinge, then the drill is set vertically, and we drill exactly in the center. This simple technique makes it easy to drill holes in the center of the hinges. We apply the markup for installing the door latch. Usually it falls in the middle of the door.

When drilling a hole for the latch, be careful not to damage the excess veneer. To do this, set the rotation of the drill counterclockwise and apply a central marking with a drill. So the drill will not jump off and tear the adjacent veneer. Then we set the drill to normal drilling mode and drill the required hole. The depth of drilling can be adjusted by a special marker that you put on the drill. The marker in this case is the usual electrical tape.

The hole is ready, and we insert the latch into it.

Please note that the diameter of the hole must exceed the internal thickness of the latch. Mark with a knife.

And again we will use the milling machine, then with a wide chisel we will sample the corners.

As usual, we will make a few notches, and then clean up the corners. Now insert the latch and fasten it with screws.

Door leaf installation

Our foam has partially set. Now it will provide us with the elastic state of the box. We install a stop under the door and twist the upper loop.

A lever may be required to set the bottom hinge well. Don't forget to put a stop under it.

When the loop has exactly entered the groove, you can screw it onto two screws. In a suspended state, the vertical installation of the doors is checked.

Let's check the operation of the door frame seal. If it squeaks, coat it with a small amount of VD-40. We proceed to the alignment of the feigned side of the door frame. When the door is hung, we can appreciate how perfect the door leaf is. And right now we have the opportunity to align the feigned part of the box with the door. As in the previous case, we align this part of the box with wedges.

Slightly hardened polyurethane foam allows you to smoothly shift the feigned part of the box in one direction or another. After finishing the alignment, mark the center of the latch on the feigned bar of the box. When choosing door latches, give preference to those that have a ledge on the counterpart. With it, you can adjust the strength of the adjoining doors.

Having made a mark, we use the milling machine again.

This time we are making a recess for the door latch.

If necessary, the rounded edges can be corrected with a chisel. We drill the attachment points of the mating part of the latch and fasten it with screws.

Now we will drill a hole in this cavity for the third fixing screw. Regardless of whether an anchor bolt or self-tapping screw is used, it will be hidden inside this cavity. It is also necessary to install an additional wedge in this place.

We twist the self-tapping screw, which will fix the feigned part of the box through the drywall to the inner bar of the bearing wall.

Installation of door handles

Now you can collect door handles. Tighten the inner pin on one of the handles with a hexagon.

After inserting the handle, fix it with three self-tapping screws.

Insert the handle on the other side and do the same. Let's check the operation of the handle.

Finishing the assembly of the handle, we fix the second handle with a hexagon. We put on decorative caps on each side.

Now is the time to apply the foam between the wall and the door frame on the outside of the door. Do not forget to tighten the remaining screws into the door hinges.

Installation of extensions

The foam on the inside of the doors has already dried, this will allow us to move on to the next step of installing the doors.

We need to install extensions from the inside of the room.

We determine the distance by choosing the most protruding part of the wall. Having made measurements from above and below, we will choose the largest. If there is a rounding in the inner groove of the box, it must be carefully cut with a knife. This will allow you to put the extension in this groove quite tightly without gaps.

We perform this operation on the other side. If the foam sticks out, it must be slightly cut off.

Now a circular saw with a top table is very useful to us. Having set the emphasis to a given width, we ideally cut the extension boards. Trim off the bottom edge.

We place the dobor board, resting it on the upper groove of the door frame.

We'll do the same on the other side. And again, we cut the extension boards to the final dimensions.

The groove of the door frame, into which we insert the extensions, is cleaned of foam with a small piece of board. We will do this around the entire perimeter of the door frame.

Install the dobor boards in the freed groove. To fix the extension, it is necessary to wedge it in the upper corners of the door frame.

With the help of a level or a straight board, it is necessary to ensure that the extension is either flush with the wall, or, if the wall is uneven, protrudes slightly.

The extension will hold perfectly if it is fixed with mounting foam. In this case, there is no need to make holes and fix it with screws to the wall. As the foam expands and hardens, it can be cut flush with the wall.

So, we installed the extensions and foamed them with mounting foam to fix them. If you do everything according to this technology, then the door can be used in 20 minutes. We just have to wait for the foam to completely harden, cut it off, plaster and level the sections of the wall adjacent to the door, glue the wallpaper or paint the walls, and only then nail the casing. When plastering a doorway, wet plaster should not be allowed to come into contact with the door frame. Use masking tape here, remove the plaster immediately. To make the door fit more tightly, bend the protrusion on the mating part of the latch.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

Among the progenitors of door structures were simple exhibits resembling entry gates. Perhaps the owners of the ancient dwellings believed that they also installed doors. However, after the invention of the loops, the need to cover the opening with them many times every day finally disappeared. Now the entrance and interior "limiters" of personal space are mounted once, but for decades. For the implementation of which the owners of suburban property often turn to professional carpenters. Meanwhile, installing doors with your own hands can be not only a successful, but also an economical enterprise. It is only necessary to study the technological nuances and call for patience. Does not place a labor unit in the amount of one person.

Brief overview of upcoming work + preparation

The door, of course, is not a super-complex technical system, but it is also not a simple board that closes the entrance “hole”. It should close without any extra effort, not open spontaneously, “endure” the nervous breakdowns of those who like to clap, without falling apart. In order for the design to adequately cope with its duties, an independent home master will need to:

• assemble a box - the supporting basis of the structure;
• equip the canvas and the box beam with the fittings required for use - hinges, a simple handle or a snap-in counterpart with a spring mechanism;
• perfectly expose and fix the box in the opening;
• hang the canvas, if necessary, performing a preliminary adjustment;
• trim the result of labor with platbands.

In addition to the first two stages, the primacy between which is not dictated by technology, all other actions must be carried out in a clear sequence, having previously figured out how to properly install interior doors in accordance with building codes.

Installation process in detail

A number of plastic and metal-plastic door blocks are delivered in full combat readiness for fastening in the opening. Everything is clear with them.

Consider a variant with a box not assembled into a single element, which appeared before the eyes of the master in the form of a set of boxed wooden bars of arbitrary length, canvas and planks for platbands not cut to size.

Box collection options

The construction of the box is the most painstaking and responsible process. The slightest deviations in its assembly will entail, at a minimum, complications in operation, as a maximum, the purchase of new material. At this stage, you need to forget about laziness, and take all measurements with special care literally seven times.

Owners who want to figure out how to install a door with their own hands in the opening of an interior partition can make a base without a threshold in the shape of the letter P. This will require three bars:

• feigned stand (aka timber);
• hinged timber;
• ceiling plate.

If there is a desire to make a base with a threshold, a lower bar of equal thickness will be added to the listed set. Then the box assembly will resemble a rectangle.

Performer's task:

• accurately measure the size of the opening and canvas;
• calculate the dimensions of the racks and lintels, taking into account the need to provide technological clearances;
• clearly saw off and connect the individual bars into a single solid whole.

The thickness of self-purchased box timber must be no less than the thickness of the canvas.

Measurements must be taken with one tape measure. Measure both the canvas and the opening along the length from the left and right sides separately, without relying on their obligatory “mirroring”. Identified deviations must be taken into account in further work.

What to consider when measuring:

• On the outer sides of the hinged, lintel, feigned beam, in contact with the opening planes, a gap for mounting foam of 1 cm must be left.
• On their inside, there should also be a gap of 0.3 cm. For boxes with a threshold, this gap is maintained around the entire perimeter.
• A “gap” must be left between the lower plane of the door structure without a threshold and the floor. Above the linoleum 0.8 cm, above the fleecy carpet 1.5 cm, an average of 1.0 cm.

The points for sawing off the vertical posts, that is, the actual dimensions of the door clearance with the box, are found on the inside of the timber.

With insufficient dimensions of the opening, it must be increased. If the opening is too large, it is reduced by stuffing drywall cut into size along the P configuration.

What is the best way to cut timber for a box?

For the production of cuts, it is better to use a trimming machine, but as an alternative, a miter box with a hand saw is suitable. By tradition, the technology for installing interior doors offers home craftsmen two ways to connect the elements of the box:

• With sawing of vertical posts and lintels at an angle of 45º. Quite a difficult option for an inexperienced carpenter, requiring attention and scrupulousness. True, carefully executed docking looks very beautiful. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the elements. Holes for them are drilled through perpendicular to the cut. All holes for screws in the elements of the MDF door structure are made in advance to avoid damage to the workpieces. They are not drilled to the end with a drill with a diameter equal to 3/4 of the diameter of the fasteners to be installed. Self-tapping screws for MDF doors must be selected with cutting along the entire trunk to the head.
• Washed down with a 90º angle. The easiest way, for which a fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable. The size of the inner vertical line of the bars will be the sum of the length of the leaf, 3 mm from the top and 3 mm from the bottom, if the door has a threshold. For a door without a threshold, 10 mm (8-15 mm) is left below. The ceiling beam is attached to the vertical posts with two self-tapping screws on each side. When calculating its size, it must be remembered that there should be a distance between the feigned and hinged beams equal to the sum of the web width and 6 mm required for two side gaps.

For the threshold, the timber is sawn only at a right angle.

You need to assemble the box on a horizontal surface. Two tables placed side by side or a floor covered with cardboard will do.

Installation of door hardware

The arrangement of the internal space is accompanied by the obligatory stage of fastening functional fittings.

In order to ensure unhindered evacuation in emergency cases, the entrance doors should open outwards.

Door hinges can be either right or left, or universal. We are used to the fact that they usually represent a flag design that requires careful insertion. However, now you can purchase devices that do not require cutting the veneer or laminated surface under the flag for the thickness of the loop.

The standard indent from the upper and lower edges of the canvas is 20 cm, with variations in both directions of 5 cm. If a third loop is used, it is placed 50 cm from the top line of the canvas.

The place of attachment of the loop to the box is calculated taking into account the technological gap. That is, from the top of the hinged bar you need to retreat not 20 cm, but 23.3 cm.

The "landing pads" for the hinges should ensure that the flag is flush with the box and canvas. They are selected with a cutter and finished with a chisel. You can do all the work only with a chisel. How the loop is inserted, the video will demonstrate:

Most independent door installers are convinced that it is more convenient to fasten the fittings before assembling the box, since on the hinged timber you also need to select the veneer for the hinges. However, this operation can be carried out on a collected basis.

Also, it will be useful to watch a video about the tie-in of the lock:

The location of the handle with a snap mechanism is determined by the owner. The standard distance is from 0.9 m to 1.2 m from the floor.

Installation and fastening of the box in the opening

Experienced craftsmen, who know perfectly well how to properly install the door, recommend that the anchors used to fix the box in the opening be closed from above with hinge flags and the striker of the lock.

On three powerful and long self-tapping screws, the door structure will hold perfectly. After all, the foam will also support the connection.

Do not forget that in order to screw the screws into the MDF box beam, you need to make preliminary holes. The owners of the baths, who are figuring out how to install a wooden door, do not need to drill holes in the timber and canvas in advance. You can drill a box of wood without prior preparation.

• The door base assembled on a horizontal surface is carefully (preferably together) lifted and placed in the opening.
• So that between the box and the wall surrounding it remains the centimeter gap necessary for foaming, we install wedges cut from the remnants of lumber.
• We screw in the screws.
• We align the base in vertical and horizontal directions, checking the position with a level and a plumb line. Deviations are corrected by loosening or screwing screws.
• We hang the canvas on the hinges and check the operation of the door structure. There should be no distortions and discrepancies in the size of the gap between the box beam and the canvas.
• We seal the box along the future layer of mounting foam with construction tape, insert cardboard into the gap around the canvas, close the door.
• We fill all the cavities around the base box with professional mounting foam with a dispenser.

It is desirable to foam in several steps, taking into account all the recommendations of the manufacturer and the degree of swelling of the composition. The door should not be used until the foam has completely cured.

Now we can assume that you managed to assemble the structure and install the interior door with your own hands. And the experience has been gained, and there are many openings ahead, waiting for a caring master's hand. It remains only to close the not-too-presentable seams with platbands, the technology of which is worth getting acquainted with separately.

Is it so terrible to install interior doors with your own hands, as it is presented? In fact, this is not the most difficult repair operation. It certainly requires a high degree of concentration on the process, but even a beginner can master it by following the recommended sequence of actions.

A successful final result will be achieved if you are careful at every step of the work. The whole process of installing a door between rooms can be divided into successive stages:

• assembly of the door frame;
• its installation;
• installation of the door leaf;
• fixing the additional element;
• framing with platbands.

If only one interior door will be updated inside your house, and you have no installation experience, it makes sense to turn to specialists - it will be faster. If you have to install a larger number of them, it is better to do it yourself - in this case, a decent saving of money, time, and also the acquisition of useful experience is possible.

Required tools and materials

To independently install an interior door, you should stock up on such tools in advance:

• a hammer;
• tape measure 3-5 m;
• a set of chisels;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• miter box (special tray for cutting boards at an angle);
• construction (bubble) level;
• a circular saw;
• perforator with an adapter for a drill;
• electromilling machine;
• wood saw;
• Miter saw.

Of the fasteners you will need:

• black screws;
• several cylinders of mounting foam;
• nails with a small hat;
• dowels;
• finishing nails.

Necessary fittings and accessories:

• small bars for wedges with a cross section of up to 40 × 40 mm;
• door hinges (preferably detachable);
• latch lock.

Features of choosing a door

Arriving at a furniture store, a potential buyer will be amazed at the variety of models. Externally, the doors look perfect, but inside it can have serious flaws. It's about geometry. Even a slight difference in the lengths of the sides of the leaf of 1-2 mm can seriously complicate the installation of the door. If time and money invested are precious to you, do not be too lazy to measure the canvas right in the store. It is also important to ensure that the measured door is loaded.

The next step is the purchase of a door frame. Some of them make up a single set with doors, but some are sold separately. It is much easier to install interior doors if you purchase a canvas with a box from one manufacturer, and not do the latter yourself.

If it is impossible to buy a box for financial or other reasons, you can create it yourself by purchasing a special bar (box). A homemade box will consist of two vertical racks and one horizontal top (lintel). The purchased timber should not have knots, unevenness, roughness. The thickness of the acquired timber is equal to the thickness of the door leaf, otherwise installation will be impossible.

Buying a single unit greatly facilitates installation, since the structure can be fixed without assistants. However, there is one caveat - after pouring the block with foam, you need at least 6 hours not to make any manipulations with the door. If possible, it is recommended to opt for a set of canvas with a frame.

Preparing the premises for the installation of an interior door

The installation of the door block is preceded by the pre-finishing of the room. It involves the alignment of the walls, which are puttied and plastered. Works performed in humid environments are completed in advance, and the room is ventilated and dried, otherwise the frame will “lead” due to dampness.

Inside the rooms and between them, the rough and finishing floors should already be laid. Thanks to this, the door frame will be correctly mounted at the height of the threshold. There is no need to re-lay the floor if the block is only replaced with a new one.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The frame is assembled first. To do this, the racks are trimmed so that the gap between the floor or wall and the door leaf is about 10 mm, and are connected with self-tapping screws. Then the width, height, verticality of the opening is checked with a bubble level. The box is ready.

From the bottom and top of the frame, 20 cm are measured for future loops. A similar operation is then performed on the door leaf. With a chisel, places are selected for fastening for installing interior doors (hinges), a block is assembled. Now it is fixed inside the opening with wedges. Again the geometry is controlled by the level.

To maintain a small gap between the canvas and the frame, thick cardboard is taken, folded in half, inserted into the gap. Such "extenders" should be inserted every 10-15 cm along the perimeter of the frame.

The block is placed inside the opening. The mounting gap between the block and the wall is filled with foam without any free space remaining. After that, all wedges are removed.

Most types of polyurethane foam dry after 5-6 hours, but after this time it is still able to expand slightly. Therefore, it is better to leave the door closed for 10-12 hours. After this time, all spacers, wedges, inserts are removed. The final stage remains - the installation of handles, the insertion of the lock, the plastering of the slopes, the installation of the platbands. It is obvious that the total installation time of the door does not exceed 2-3 hours for beginners, not counting the period of complete drying of the foam.

Features of installing a door inside a log house

Some buildings (country house, bathhouse) are made of logs or thick beams. The installation sequence is almost the same as the points listed above, but there is an important nuance - wooden buildings from a log house shrink. It is important to pause when installing the doors, because even after six months the house will only partially sit down. In another year, the shrinkage will be maximum, and the next 3-4 years, the structure will shrink a little more.

For 1 year, the house is able to decrease in height by 5 cm, so installing a door in a log house involves deviations from the generally accepted technology. In order to exclude the occurrence of distortion or other negative influence of the house on the door block, it is recommended to make a casing or simply install bars.

Casing is an element that has a longitudinal spike inserted on the sides of the block. Further shrinkage will only affect it, while not affecting the frame. To do this, a spike 50 mm high and about 35 mm wide is cut out on the sides of the opening. Further, in a bar with a section of 100 × 100 mm, a groove 50 mm wide is cut out, and a little more than a spike (about 40 mm) in height. The length of the beam on the sides should be 5 cm more than the height of the door block when installed in a fresh frame and 2-3 cm when installed in an established one. The top of the casing will be a board 50 × 200 mm, installed by surprise, fixed to self-tapping screws.

Another method (installation of bars) differs only in material savings. Products with a section of 50 × 50 mm are placed inside the groove along the ends. Then the frame is attached to them in order: the side part - the horizontal upper strut - the second sidewall - the bottom threshold. The downside of this solution is that there may be a weakening of the structure, coupled with distortions or deformation of the block due to a lack of wood inside the groove, so the first method (casing) is more preferable.

Features of mounting a door in an aerated concrete wall

Although the material in question for building structures is an excellent sound insulator and saves heat, it is also very fragile. With wide doors installed (from 85 cm), serious shock loads are inevitable at the fixation points of the door block. To prevent premature destruction, you need to make additional wood frames or embedded bars from dry boards, plywood, glued wood. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics or thermally. When using ordinary wood, it is better to give preference to larch - resistant to decay and economically consistent with the breed.

The easiest way to strengthen the structure is to ruin the embedded bar inside the end surface. It is treated with a layer of special aerated concrete or tile adhesive, and fastened to anchors or self-tapping screws from 8 cm long. Short fasteners (4, 5, 7 cm) withstand a small shear load, so they will wear out over time. The frame itself is also fixed on self-tapping screws.

The second way to strengthen the frame - the installation of panels - involves either full coverage of the opening around the perimeter, or partial (the segments are installed 50-60 cm apart). Free areas in the latter case are filled with mounting foam with a slight degree of expansion.

Both methods are equally good. Due to the holding forces of fasteners and the expanding force of the mounting foam, reliable installation of doors in aerated concrete is achieved, allowing them to serve for decades.

Final work - installation of platbands

After the foam has dried after 12 hours, it remains to install the trim. They are evenly cut with a circular saw, butted together at an angle of 45 degrees, fastened with finishing nails. Before they are driven in, holes are made at the fixation points with a size approximately equal to half the diameter of the fastener.

To increase the strength of the connection of platbands, it is recommended:

• lubricate the plane of their attachment with silicone sealant;
• pre-apply a platband and fix with studs or small nails;
• cover the holes with colored mastic after driving in the fasteners.

Precautions, rules of care

The key to successful work on the installation of an interior door is the control of all geometric parameters before purchase, the external condition, and the configuration. After payment for the goods, no claims will be accepted.

It is advisable not to allow strong temperature fluctuations inside the rooms. Also, monitor the regular ventilation of the premises - due to the lack of fresh air, there is an increase in humidity, leading to damage to wooden products.

If the door is installed where the temperature or humidity periodically rises, it is necessary to carefully ventilate this place until the mode normalizes (bath, sauna, bathroom).

The door should not be thrown open abruptly, with force or in any other way that causes a violation of the integrity of the block. Although most models have special coatings that prevent wear, you should avoid rough mechanical impact on the canvas, trim, frame.

Regularly clean wooden surfaces with a damp cloth, napkin, cloth. Such a simple way of care will preserve their aesthetic beauty.

Contact of wood with acids, alkalis, solvents, and other chemicals is undesirable. They destroy the integrity of the material.

Obviously, the above step-by-step instructions for installing an interior door make the entire installation process very doable. Following the advice will allow you to competently cope with the task, and timely care for new interior items will preserve their aesthetics and functionality for a long time.

Interior doors sooner or later become unusable and have to be replaced. This procedure is not too complicated, so it is not necessary to use the services of hired workers. To cope on their own is quite within the power of someone who has even the slightest idea about the saw, self-tapping screws and the level. In this article, you will learn how to install an interior door with your own hands.

Types of interior doors

The construction market offers a huge number of interior doors that are made from various materials. The most common are: fiberboard, MDF and natural wood. I would like to consider the advantages and disadvantages of doors made of such materials in more detail.

fiberboard doors

The frame of such a door is made of wood, and the sheathing is made of fiberboard sheets.

The advantages include:

• low price;
• lightness of the material, which allows you to easily bring the door from the store home;
• ease of installation.

Such advantages increase the popularity of these doors among the population. Hardware stores have a fairly large selection of fiberboard doors, as they are in the greatest demand.

Of the shortcomings, it should be noted:

• Fiberboard material is not strong enough, so the doors can quickly become unusable;
• Poor resistance to moisture, therefore not suitable for installation in bathrooms.

MDF doors

Doors made of MDF material are the most acceptable for the population and meet the price-quality ratio. Compared to fiberboard, such doors have certain advantages, namely:

• high resistance to moisture;
• high level of sound insulation;
• high strength material.

Of the shortcomings, only a higher cost can be noted, compared with fiberboard doors. At the same time, the quality more than justifies the means.

natural wood

Such interior doors have always been and are held in high esteem. The material is durable enough to use. The cost of a door will directly depend on the type of wood from which it is made. The classic interior and the author's design are perfectly complemented with the help of such doors.

Step by step installation instructions

For an example of how to install an interior door in stages, we will take doors from fiberboard.

Step 1

Before starting work, prepare the necessary tools and consumables, such as: a saw, a screwdriver, an electric drill, a tape measure, mounting foam, dowels, a level, wood screws, a handle, drills and drills of the required diameter.

Step 2

Make a diagram for installing the door frame in the opening. It is worth paying special attention to the threshold. If you cannot hide it on the floor, then it is better to choose a box without it, that is, in the shape of the letter P. Such a box does not have a crossbar at the bottom, which will ensure walking without any obstacles.

Step 3

Box installation. Before attaching the door frame, make sure that there are hinges. The door must have a cutout for the handle and for the lock. Gather all the pieces of the box together and fit into the opening. For convenience, fold all the parts on the floor as they will be installed in the opening.

Step 4

Installation of the door frame in the opening. At this stage, the assembled door frame is installed in the opening and leveled.

Step 5

Landing the door on the hinges. This process is quite simple. The doors are hung on the hinges by hand, it is better to ask someone to help you at this moment.

Step 6

Foaming the gap between the wall and the box.

Step 7

Finishing doorways. The type of finishing of such an opening is selected taking into account the type of the door frame itself and the width of the opening.

In order to perform the installation of interior doors without the involvement of hired workers, it is necessary to consider some steps in more detail in order to avoid unpleasant consequences in the future.

Box assembly

The most painstaking and crucial moment in the assembly of an interior door is the installation of a box. But before you install it, you need to assemble it correctly. At this stage, the proverb about measure 7 times is as relevant as possible.

So, to assemble a U-shaped box, you need:

1. Feigned rack or bar.
2. Loop bar.
3. Ceiling plate.

To carry out the assembly as accurately as possible, you need to measure the size of the opening and the canvas itself down to every millimeter. Next, it is worth calculating the dimensions of the racks and lintels, taking into account the dimensions of the gaps. After that, saw off the individual bars and connect them into a single whole. It should be noted that the thickness of the timber should not be less than the thickness of the canvas. When taking measurements, do not change the tape measure, use only one. Having measured the canvas on the right side, measure it on the left as well, do not rely on the accuracy of the match. All deviations will be necessarily taken into account in further work.

Calculation of the installation of an interior door

When taking measurements, consider the following:

• On the outer sides of the entire beam (ceiling, hinge and feigned), which are in contact with the opening, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1 cm wide for mounting foam.
• There should also be a gap on the inside of the entire beam, but a little less, 0.3 cm. If the box has a threshold, then such a gap is necessary around the entire perimeter.
• The lower plane of the door frame and the floor must have a gap between them. On average, its height should be 1 cm. For linoleum, 0.8 cm is enough, and for fleecy coatings, 1.5 cm.

If the opening is not enough in size, it should be increased and vice versa, reduced if it is too large.

Insert hinges

Usually, two hinges are enough for interior doors, but sometimes three may be needed. The hinges are installed at a distance of 250 mm from the edge of the canvas. If both the canvas and the box are made of wood, then the place for the loops must be chosen so that there are no knots. Initially, the loops are attached only to the canvas.

The stitching order looks like this:

1. We select the places necessary for the loops and outline them with a knife blade.
2. You can work with a milling cutter or a chisel, in which case the material must be matched to the thickness of the loop.
3. We prepare the recess and install a loop in it, the plane of which should be flush with the canvas.
4. The loop that is already inserted into the hole must be fixed with self-tapping screws.

When you have installed the hinges in the door leaf, it is placed in the door frame and the necessary gaps are set.

On the side of the hinges, the gaps should be 5 mm, on the opposite side and at the top 3 mm.

When the gaps are set, they are fixed with wedges. It is also necessary to set the canvas itself, exactly horizontally and vertically.

When everything is exposed, the location of the mating parts should be noted. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove the installed loop and then reinstall it. According to the markup, you need to make a recess. The depth should be such that the surface of the door frame coincides with the hinge.

Hardware installation

Installation of interroom doors cannot do without installation of accessories. According to all safety regulations, interior doors should always open outward. The installation of handles, as well as loops, begins with markings, which should be carried out very carefully. First, mark the level of its height. Usually it is 90 cm. On one side, draw a line with a pencil, stepping back from the edge of 60 mm. Using a ruler, draw a line on the end and make a similar marking on the other side of the door. All marks must be pierced with an awl.

Drill a hole half the thickness of the canvas. Do the same on the other side of the door. At the end of the canvas you need to make a hole with a pen drill. Make sure that all measurements match and do not allow deviations even of 1 mm. Take a chisel and with light taps make a deep cut for the latch. Screw it on with screws. Now it remains only to insert 2 parts of the product. Bring the parts on both sides and try to get into the holes with the guides, then tighten everything with bolts.

At the end, you have to install a metal plate on the end of the door frame. Cut out the cutouts for the plate. Make sure the frame fits snugly against the end and secure the frame with screws.

Box installation

How to install the box correctly? This process requires you to be extremely careful and patient. It is better if someone helps you, then the measurements and installation will be much more accurate.

Installing the door frame in the opening includes the following:

• The pre-assembled door must be carefully lifted, preferably with an assistant, and installed in the opening.
• In order to leave the necessary gaps between the wall and the box, you need to make wedges from the remnants of the material.
• Next, screw in the screws.
• We clearly align the base in all directions. There should not be any distortions and discrepancies in the gaps. But if there are any, they can be leveled by loosening or tightening the screws more tightly.
• We hang the door leaf on the hinges and check.
• Where the mounting foam will be poured along the box, we seal the canvas with construction tape. Insert cardboard into the gap and close the door.

As you can see, the process is not that complicated, however, it requires precise measurements and compliance in all sizes.

Foaming

This step is quite important. Filling the gaps between the box and the wall with foam should be carried out after the door is installed. Do not forget that as it dries, the mounting foam increases in volume. If you suddenly overdid it with its quantity, it may well pull out the screws and even bend the box, after which you will not be able to close the door. If this happens, then the installation of the door will need to be started again. During foaming, it is important to lay gaps between the wall and the box with something.

Applying construction foam for gaps is not hard work. The vertical seam must be filled from below. Be extremely careful with the amount of foam used.

Only a third of the opening needs to be filled. In addition to the deformation of the door, the foam can come out and spoil the appearance of the leaf.

Drying of the foam occurs in a day at a temperature of 20 degrees.

Finishing openings

When the door installation is completed, the openings require finishing to bring the overall appearance of the space in order. The type of finish should be selected based on the width of the opening and the door frame.

With a thin wall, when its width is equal to the width of the door frame, platbands can be used for finishing. This is usually how bathroom doors are designed. This option is the simplest and most common. A set of platbands is attached to all sides of the box and closes the building foam. If the platbands are made of wood, then first they need to be attached with screws and only then painted. If the platbands are laminated, then they must be fixed with nails without caps or with screws with caps.

If the doorways are wide, then you can finish them using the same platbands or an additional strip, which can be cut to the width you need. Such a bar is attached to the wall using building silicone. The plank and platbands can have a different color with the door. Recently, it is quite important to choose contrasting solutions.

If the door frame is made of wood, then it can be finished with slope plaster. Cement-sand plaster will perfectly emphasize the natural texture of your doors. But this method is not entirely suitable for finishing fiberboard boxes. This is due to their incompatibility with high humidity, which involves plaster work.

Thus, we can say that installing interior doors with your own hands will not take you as much time as it would seem at first glance. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help you avoid the most common installation errors. Correctly performed measurements will guarantee a successful installation of the door. In addition to your own efforts, do not forget to choose high-quality materials for the work being carried out so that your efforts do not become a waste of time due to an unsuccessful choice of building foam or self-tapping screws.

The interior door serves to divide the space in the room, and also provides sound insulation in a private house or apartment. In addition, the door leaf is an important interior detail, so it must match the design style. Since installation work is quite expensive, the question arises of how to properly install interior doors with your own hands. The answer is in the detailed step-by-step instructions on this page.

Dimensions and equipment

According to the method of opening the doors are folding, sliding and hinged. The latter are the most popular, since they are structurally the simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. According to the method of opening, the following are distinguished:

• double-sided and single-sided;
• left and right sided.

Step 3: Installing the box and hanging the canvas

The box must be installed in a pre-prepared opening. The hinge post must be leveled first with a plumb or level. It is necessary to check it from all sides. Then the upper crossbar and the rack must be spread with wedges. The rack will only be exposed when it is in a vertical position.
Next, wedged the second rack. Be sure to check the horizontal part of the box.

The old way - the side racks must be drilled through. To do this, holes for dowels are initially made in the wall. The box must be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws at least 150 mm long.

Old way fasteners

In order to fix the box in the opening in a hidden way, you can use metal plates, which are usually used to install drywall structures. Most often, such plates are used together with anchors. In this case, it is worth choosing the number of fasteners in accordance with the expected load.

This is what the mount looks like

The use of such plates is a non-standard method and is possible only in the absence of a fine finish. It is recommended to gouge a section of the wall in order to subsequently putty the fasteners.

It remains to hang the door on the frame. After that, you need to carry out the final adjustment of the box. The lock post must then be fitted under the door so that it does not protrude beyond the wall. It is worth remembering that in order to preserve the integrity of the box and canvas, you must first drill several holes for the screws.

Step 4: Foaming

After fixing the canvas, you need to foam the gaps between the box and the edges of the opening. The foam should be fed carefully, in layers, while the feed is from above so that it does not come out. Then the door will have to be closed and not touched for a certain time so that the foam dries. Estimated drying time is 1 day.

If the composition accidentally gets on the canvas, immediately remove it with a clean, dry cloth, dried fragments are cleaned with effective ones.

Step 5: Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf

The most popular today are handles with a built-in lock. The order of work is as follows:

1. Make a mark one meter from the floor. The handle mechanism must be applied so that the mark is visible in the hole from above.
2. Drill holes in the canvas from the end. After that, the edges of the holes should be cut with a chisel to align the hole.
3. Insert the mechanism into the hole. In this case, the lock must be aligned, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The bar on the lock should be outlined with a pencil to cut the veneer, then the mechanism should be removed. According to the outlined contour, you need to select a site to determine the thickness of the locking bar. This is done using a chisel.
4. Drill holes for the latch and handles. It is necessary to attach the lock to the canvas from different sides, align it and mark it. Holes must be made on both sides and they must not be through.
5. Remove the formed chips and install the handles.

Step 6: Installing the trim strips

An extension is a plank about 2 meters long, 250 mm wide, and no more than 3 cm thick. The plank should be used during the installation of interior doors if the wall is thicker than the door frame.

The bar for the box is made in a standard width - approximately 70 mm. It can be expanded according to the thickness of the opening with an extension. This will allow you to more clearly combine the box and walls. On the bar there is a groove for the strap. First you need to measure the distance to the edge of the wall, starting from the depth of the groove.

The add-on can be installed in different ways:

• into the groove in the box;
• with cutting a groove in the absence of finished;
• attaching the extension from the inside of the timber in the absence of a groove, the box is installed at the same time together with the extension;
• fastening dobor in the form of "P";
• if the extension is not too wide and there is no groove in the box, the bar should be drilled and screwed to the box.

The plank is sawn into several parts with a circular saw to get several extensions of the required dimensions. You need to prepare one short bar and two vertical ones. Check out our simple step by step guide to .

Step 7: Trim fasteners

During the installation of platbands, the box must be located at the same level as the opening on the front side. To connect the platbands, you must first attach a vertical bar to the box and put a mark 0.5 cm higher, stepping back from the crossbar of the box. This mark will act as the cut edge. In the same way, you need to mark the cut on the other side.