What is the best and cheapest way to insulate your home? How to insulate a house without touching the facade - an elementary guide to internal insulation

Heat leaves a private house not only through cracks in windows and doors - most of the heat energy flows through the surfaces of the floor, ceiling and walls, even if they are finished with materials that prevent the flow of cold air relatively well. To ensure the effective preservation of a constant temperature inside the room, it is recommended to insulate its walls from the outside with your own hands - and not only in the basement area, but also the surface of the entire facade.

Wall insulation options

It is possible to insulate a house not only outside, but also inside, but external insulation has a number of advantages. So, when choosing this method, insulation will not only protect the house from the cold, but the walls will also become less susceptible to aggressive environmental factors - primarily humidity and fluctuations in air temperature.
There is a wide range of materials for insulating the walls of a private house with your own hands, each of which is better suited for a particular situation and for certain operating conditions. You can use foam or more practical extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

Consider the basic technologies of insulation

As for insulation technologies, there are three of them:

• the simplest method is to glue the insulation to the surface of the facade or plinth, after which the heat-insulating material is covered with a layer of plaster for subsequent decorative wall decoration;
• three-layer walls without ventilation - an adhesive solution is applied to the base, insulation is fixed on it, then, observing the gap, a brick front finish one stone thick is erected;
• ventilated facade - a frame made of a galvanized profile or a wooden crate is installed on the wall, then the surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing, on which the insulation is fixed, after which the whole structure is covered with decorative plates of various materials.

The methods differ in their reliability, total cost and complexity of doing it yourself. In order for any of them to be carried out with high quality, you need to carefully study the nuances of insulation - in any case, the procedure for thermal insulation of a basement or facade is more complicated than finishing a floor or ceiling.

In addition, the method should be chosen based on the conditions in which the work is carried out. In winter, the only option is to design a ventilated wall, since this does not use adhesive solutions that cannot be diluted in the cold.

The nuances of choosing a warming material

Each of the thermal insulation materials on the market fully performs its functions, differing only in price and additional parameters, such as resistance to moisture and ignition. Unlike the floor or ceiling, which can be insulated with your own hands with almost anything, the exterior decoration of the walls of the building should be carried out using one of the following materials:

• plates of dense foam or extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by a small mass;
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• slabs of volcanic stone;
• cellulose wadding (ecowool).

To the differences in materials, you can also add such a parameter as vapor permeability, which is very important when finishing the exterior walls and basement. Steam should penetrate as freely as possible through the insulation so that the main wall does not begin to collapse ahead of time, and moisture does not condense inside the room. Because of this, when using XPS or foam, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the wall, since these materials do not pass steam well.

Although any of the materials provides a sufficient degree of thermal insulation of the house, their thermal conductivity indicators are different. This is due to the physical characteristics of the substances that make up the insulation. Depending on the value of these indicators, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is selected: the lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat and the thinner the insulation layer can be.

The nuances of selecting the required thickness

The thickness of the plates of heat-insulating material, when finishing the walls of the facade and the basement outside the house, should be selected not only based on the parameters of the material, but also based on the relevant building codes and regulations. It is best to carry out calculations with a special design organization, but if the construction of the house is carried out completely with your own hands, it is quite possible to choose the thickness of the insulation yourself.

When calculating the amount of material in order to insulate the walls from the outside, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat loss of the facade or basement itself, but also heat leakage through windows, doors, floor and ceiling surfaces, especially if there is an unheated basement. Based on all the data, a decision is made on the thickness of the layer of a particular material.

It may turn out that a more expensive material becomes preferable due to its efficiency and, accordingly, a smaller amount required. So, you should not opt ​​for polystyrene foam, if you have to lay it in several layers in order to provide the necessary thermal insulation performance - it is better to buy several times less polyurethane foam.

Preparatory work

Before you start insulating the walls outside the house with your own hands, the base on which the heat-insulating material will be applied must be prepared so that the whole structure is reliable, efficient and durable.

If the insulation is not done during the construction of the house, the old wall finish on the outside must be cleaned, except when a ventilated facade is being installed. The decorative material that reinforces the layer of plaster and everything else is completely removed down to the base - as a result, a clean brick, wooden or foam concrete wall of the house should remain.

The following steps in the initial surface preparation are:

• The surface of the facade or plinth is leveled. If the height differences are insignificant, you can simply cover the facade with two layers of a strong primer with deep penetration. If the irregularities exceed 20 mm, the surface will have to be leveled with cement mortar, which then also needs to be primed to protect it from destruction. When constructing a ventilated facade, the wall can be leveled using brackets.
• The beacon system is being installed. It is needed in order to lay the insulation in an even layer. Due to this, the heat-insulating layer will not interfere with the application of plaster and the installation of a decorative coating. Lighthouses are installed on plumb lines and checked by level. Their upper plane will become the boundary of the insulation layer outside the walls. Beacons are made of wooden battens or aluminum profiles and fixed to the base with long self-tapping screws or anchors.

After the preparation is completed, it will be possible to start laying the insulation with your own hands.

Installation of thermal insulation material

In general terms, finishing with one material or another is standard, but each of the heaters has its own characteristic installation nuances.

Mineral wool installation

When finishing the ceiling or floor inside the room, special fastening of rolls of cotton wool is not required - often it is simply glued to double-sided tape, and it holds perfectly. However, when insulating walls - a facade or a basement - outside the house, a more reliable installation method is needed. In addition, the wool must be weatherproof.

In order for the mineral wool to hold, a frame of wooden slats is mounted on the base with their own hands. It is desirable to make the dimensions of the crate sectors such that the cotton wool fits snugly into the space between the slats - that is, the frame elements should be installed in increments of a couple of centimeters smaller than the width of the insulation roll. Optionally, anchors can be screwed into the wall to provide a more secure hold of the material.

If the wall is uneven on the outside, it is best to use special mineral wool, which consists of two layers of different densities. Such cotton wool is laid with your own hands in a less dense layer against the wall, fits all the irregularities and provides the tightest fit of the insulation to the base. Thus, better insulation is provided.

In most situations, further finishing can be done in any convenient way. For example, a layer of mineral wool can be covered with a special membrane that will protect the thermal insulation from moisture, then covered with a reinforcing mesh made of metal or fiberglass. After that, the wall is plastered and covered with a finishing finishing material - siding, stone tiles or facing bricks.

This method of insulation can be used not only with mineral wool, but also with some other heat-insulating materials - basalt or cellulose wool.

Anchoring Styrofoam or Extruded Styrofoam

The sequence of actions when installing polymer insulation boards with your own hands is as follows:

1. A metal profile is installed along the lower edge of the facade or plinth, which is needed to level the first layer of material.
2. Styrofoam or EPS boards are applied closely to the wall. A guideline for leveling the upper plane of the insulation are plumb lines lowered from the roof or tied to anchors screwed into the walls at ceiling level.
3. The gluing of the plates is carried out using special solutions - both dry adhesive mixtures and polyurethane adhesive can be used.
4. Subsequent layers are mounted after the previous one is firmly attached to the base. Each layer should move horizontally by a third or half of the slab. In addition, it is desirable to stack the plates as closely as possible to each other - for this, an angle can be cut on the side faces.
5. In addition to the glue, you need to use plastic dowels, which are fixed in the corners and in the center of each element of the heat-insulating layer. To save fasteners, you can fix two corners of adjacent foam plates with one dowel at once.
6. The joints are covered with putty and glued with mounting reinforcing tape or filled with polystyrene foam or special foam (but not ordinary mounting foam, its use is not recommended).
7. Before finishing, the insulation layer is covered with a reinforcing mesh and a layer of plaster.

Most often, polymeric materials are used to insulate the outside of a concrete or brick wall, basement, since such a finish adheres best to these surfaces. It is better to insulate wooden houses with cotton wool, since polystyrene foam and similar materials will lead to wood decay and mold due to low vapor permeability.

In order to maintain a comfortable temperature indoors even in the most frosty winter, it is necessary to properly insulate the house. If a new building is being erected, then the insulation is carried out after the walls and roof of the building are installed.

If a private house has been around for many years, then it is possible that the wall material has already lost its strength and in some places cracks of various sizes have appeared that contribute to heat loss, in this case it is necessary to first seal all the cracks and irregularities, and only then proceed to work on warming the house.

Materials for insulation

There are a huge number of materials with which you can carry out the insulation of the walls of the house.
Most popular:

Styrofoam

This material is the most inexpensive among heaters for outdoor work. This is not the only merit. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, which allows the use of a smaller layer of insulation, has a low weight, and is easily cut into pieces of the required size.

The disadvantages of this insulation include low vapor permeability and high flammability. It is not advisable to use expanded polystyrene for warming wooden houses, due to insufficient good air exchange, as a result of which the tree will be subject to decay processes.

This material is most often used for insulation of brick and stone houses. A layer of insulation 100 mm thick will reduce the cost of space heating by 5 times.

Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, which allows the use of a smaller layer of insulation, has a low weight, and is easily cut into pieces of the required size.

glass wool

This material has a large number of advantages, among which we can distinguish a small weight, thanks to which this insulation can be used to insulate old buildings. Glass wool is not subject to rotting, mice are not able to gnaw through this material.

Glass wool bends easily, so the insulation of walls that have various roundings in their design is not a problem. This material is made from quartz sand and cullet, which cannot but positively affect the final cost of this product.

Glass wool is not without drawbacks, among which the most unpleasant is the hygroscopicity of the material. Absorbing moisture, the insulation loses to a large extent its thermal insulation properties, therefore it is undesirable to use this material for external insulation, in places where the groundwater level comes too close to the surface of the earth.

If the climate in this region is too humid, then it is better to abandon the use of this insulation, or to carry out high-quality waterproofing of glass wool. Over time, glass wool fibers can stick together and decrease in volume, which also contributes to a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

When working with this material, you must adhere to strict safety requirements, use rubberized gloves, a respirator and goggles. If the smallest particles of glass enter the lungs and eyes, it can lead to undesirable consequences. If you work with this insulation without gloves, then the glass fibers can penetrate the skin, causing prolonged irritation and tingling.

Glass wool is not subject to decay, mice cannot gnaw through this material

stone wool

This material resembles glass wool in many characteristics, but there are several fundamental differences that make this material more attractive for use in outdoor home insulation. The manufacturing process of this material consists in drawing thin threads from the melt of rocks of the basalt group.

The threads are randomly placed in molds in which the material is pressed under certain temperature conditions. Stone wool is a denser material in comparison with glass wool, but it surpasses this material in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics. Stone wool can be easily cut into blocks of any shape, which makes the process of installing the slabs easy and not time consuming.

This material has a very high vapor permeability with almost no hygroscopicity. If technological errors were not made during the insulation, then the wall will remain “breathing”. Due to the fact that this heat-insulating material has a high density, it can be easily installed on glue, which also speeds up the installation process.

Stone wool has disadvantages, among which the most unpleasant is the high cost.

Stone wool is a denser material compared to glass wool, but surpasses this material in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics.

Foil insulation

It is mainly used for floor insulation, but can also be used for thermal insulation of walls. The insulation consists of a layer of polyethylene foam and thin aluminum foil. Due to its high heat reflecting characteristics, this material is 2 times higher than the insulating properties of stone wool.

Foil insulation is easily mounted on the wall due to its very low weight, which significantly reduces the time of work.

The disadvantage of this material is almost 100% vapor tightness.

Due to its high heat reflecting characteristics, this material is 2 times higher than the insulating properties of stone wool

For proper installation, it is necessary to pre-align the walls so that the cork slabs are installed on the outer wall of the house without gaps. Unlike the materials listed above, synthetic substances are not used for the production of cork insulation, which makes cork slabs one of the most environmentally friendly materials for insulating residential premises.

This material can be used both for interior decoration and for wall insulation. Unlike glass wool, cork does not absorb moisture, which allows it to be used even in conditions of high humidity and high groundwater.

Even after a long period of operation, there is no shrinkage of the material, so the plastered surface does not deform and does not form cracks. The material does not impede the passage of steam, which allows it to be used for insulating the exterior facades of wooden houses. When insulating brick and stone walls, steam exchange also occurs through the pores of the walls and the insulation layer.

Cork insulation is fireproof; when exposed to high temperatures, it does not emit substances hazardous to humans. The disadvantage of cork is its high cost, which significantly exceeds stone and glass wool slabs of similar size.

Unlike glass wool, cork does not absorb moisture, which allows it to be used even in conditions of high humidity and high groundwater.

Making a choice

In order to determine which material to use for external wall insulation, the following questions should be answered:

1. What material are the walls made of?
2. What is the humidity in the area where the house is located.
3. How high is the groundwater.
4. What is the financial possibility of acquiring 1 m2.
5. How many people will be involved in the work.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, then materials such as polystyrene foam, foil insulation and glass wool are not used.

Styrofoam is combustible, which increases the fire hazard of a wooden structure.

Foil insulation almost completely seals the structure resulting in wood decay and mold formation.

With high humidity and close proximity to groundwater, glass wool is not used to insulate wooden houses.

The most suitable material for insulating wooden walls is cork insulation., but its cost is quite high, so before you go to the store to purchase this product, you should make the correct calculations of the total cost.

You can insulate a wooden house with cork slabs yourself. Cork - has a low weight and is attached to a wooden base with nails or self-tapping screws.

If you want to insulate a stone or brick house from the outside, then polystyrene foam is the most suitable material for this purpose.

Even if groundwater is close to the construction site, this fact does not have a negative impact on the quality of the thermal insulation layer.

In terms of financial costs, expanded polystyrene is the most inexpensive of the known materials for thermal insulation of walls.

For insulation of brick and stone walls, basalt slabs are used, which do not absorb moisture and have high thermal insulation properties. The price of this material is quite high, but the cost of heating a house insulated with stone wool will be significantly reduced.

Features of insulation

Foam insulation

Due to the high flammability and low vapor permeability, it is practically not used for thermal insulation works of wooden structures.

Insulation of concrete and brick walls is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The surface of the wall must be perfectly flat. Cracks, sags and other irregularities must be sealed with sand-cement mortar.
2. After the wall is leveled, the surface should be primed to improve adhesion. For this purpose, primers with deep penetration are used. This work can be done with a roller, brush or spray gun.
3. Installation of plates is made after complete drying of the primer layer. Styrofoam is glued to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam or with the help of dry mixes. The foam installation starts from the bottom, the rows are set in a checkerboard pattern with a half-sheet step. If dry mixes are used to install polystyrene foam, then immediately before starting work, a working solution is prepared using a construction mixer or a special nozzle that is installed on a drill. The mortar is applied with a comb trowel to the wall, while it is possible to level the wall a little, applying more mortar where the wall has slight inward curvature.
4. After applying the adhesive, the foam sheets are installed manually. When pressing each slab against the wall, it is necessary to ensure that there is no adhesive solution in the joints between the slabs. If a gap has formed between the plates, then it must be repaired with pieces of polystyrene or polyurethane foam.
5. After the installation of the boards on the adhesive base is completed, and the solution is kept for at least 3 days, the expanded polystyrene boards are additionally fixed with plastic dowels. For this purpose, 5 holes are drilled for each sheet with a depth slightly greater than the length of the plastic dowel. One hole is drilled exactly in the middle of the sheet, four others are drilled in the corners. Then a plastic “fungus” is installed in each hole, the cap of which should be in the same plane with the surface of the foam sheet. After installing the “fungus”, a plastic nail is hammered in, which is inserted in such a way that the cap of the “fungus” is immersed 2-3 mm inside the foam. After the foam plastic is fixed, the outer surface is reinforced with plastic dowels using a plastic facade mesh and special adhesive mixtures for reinforcement. The adhesive composition is applied with a spatula on the installed foam plates in an even layer, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed in the adhesive layer, and the solution layer protruding beyond its surface is leveled. Thus, the insulation of the outer walls of the house with foam is carried out.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

Insulation of the outer walls of the building using mineral wool can be done in three different ways:

1. ventilated way- a hinged frame structure is used.
2. The "well" method- when implementing this method of installation, a layer of heat insulator is laid between two layers of brickwork.
3. wet way- a layer of plaster is applied to the insulation.

When using a ventilated laying method, insulation can be carried out as wooden, concrete or brick walls. The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

1. An adhesive base is applied to the wall.
2. A mineral wool slab is pressed against the wall.
3. After the glue has dried, the plates are additionally fixed with plastic dowels.
4. Then, with a small gap from the insulation layer, facing plates are installed on the frame.

Thus, between the layer of mineral wool and the facing slabs, constant air circulation will be carried out, which will prevent the formation of increased air humidity between these layers.

When erecting brick walls, the method of laying mineral wool of the “well” type is the most preferable. In this way, old buildings can also be insulated.

This method of insulation is very simple, and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Heat insulator plates are fixed to the main layer of the wall.
2. The wall is faced with silicate or ceramic bricks.

Using this method of insulation of the outer walls of the building, it is possible to obtain a high degree of thermal insulation, while the wall will be absolutely vapor-permeable.

The wet method involves applying a plaster layer over the insulation.

First, mineral wool slabs are laid on the wall in the manner described above. Then, a reinforcing plastic mesh is laid on the heat-insulating layer, using an adhesive solution. Thermal insulation work is being completed, applying a plaster layer to the reinforcing mesh.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The modern method of wall insulation is spraying a layer of polyurethane. In terms of time costs, this method takes less time than the installation of various heat-insulating boards.

Spraying can be done under siding and under plaster:

1. Under the siding, brackets are first installed on the wall, on which the profile will be installed. Then the calculated layer of insulation is sprayed.
2. Under plaster, a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the wall in an even layer. After the foam has completely dried, the most protruding tubercles of the hardened substance are cut off. After that, a layer of a special primer is applied to increase adhesion between the layer of insulation and plaster. Then a uniform layer of plaster is applied to the insulation, into which a reinforcing plastic mesh is embedded. After the first layer of plaster is completely dry, the final, decorative layer of plaster is applied.

1. Walls insulated on the outside allow not only to keep warm, but also significantly increase the mechanical strength of the walls from the effects of negative environmental factors.
2. When using polyurethane foam for home insulation and glass wool must use personal protective equipment.
3. When carrying out insulation of external walls at a considerable height, it is necessary to equip special scaffolding.
4. To purchase materials for external wall insulation, please contact only in specialized outlets.

Insulation of facades is relevant for both owners of new housing and old private houses. The walls outside must reliably protect the building from the cold. This will require a high-quality and effective heat insulator. The cost of heating and the comfort of living will depend on how good the outer insulation layer has been chosen.

How to choose material

Wall insulation from the outside can be carried out with different materials. There is a wide range on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of the house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And you should not always believe the manufacturer's advertising.

Warming the facade of the house with modern materials will be useless without observing the technology. This should also be taken into account when preparing for work. Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to comply with the insulation technology

Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

• inorganic;
• organic.

The second group has more representatives. This includes products of the chemical industry: expanded polystyrenes (foam plastic, foam plastic), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the facade of the house from the outside, first of all, you need to pay attention to the physical properties.

Styrofoam

Such thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. The foam is highly efficient, easy to install, and isolates noise quite well.. Another advantage is the affordable price. But the disadvantages of such material are significantly greater. To choose the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has such qualities as:

• combustibility;
• fragility (service life rarely exceeds 10-20 years);
• poor vapor permeability (additional ventilation of the premises will be required);
• instability to the simultaneous effects of cold and moisture (the material crumbles into separate balls);
• low strength.

Styrofoam is affordable, excellent thermal insulation, but flammable and short-lived

There is a possibility that during the aging process the material will release toxic styrene. The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate into the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer's statements about environmental friendliness.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, foam plastic. This material is a close relative of foam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous version, it is devoid of such important disadvantages as:

• instability to moisture and cold;
• low strength;
• fragility.

Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers increase the fire resistance class by introducing special additives, it is not possible to obtain a completely non-combustible material.

Penoplex is a strong durable material, but it has a low fire resistance class.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade of a wooden house is not recommended using foam or polystyrene foam. Such buildings are valued by the owners for the naturalness of the materials and the ability of the walls to “breathe”. External insulation with polystyrene will completely block the movement of air. In this case, additional forced ventilation may even be required, since natural ventilation will not be enough.. Polystyrenes can easily turn a building into a greenhouse, it is worth remembering this when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

Ecowool

Such a material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is completely made from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to decay and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding minerals to the composition: boric acid and borax.

The insulation of the house outside with ecowool has a loose structure. The material has high soundproofing performance, well passes air. This option is perfect if you need to perform the insulation of a wooden or frame building. Useful properties of wood are not lost.

Ecowool does not impair the ability of wood to pass air

When using the material on timber or log walls, wet application is performed. Wet ecowool is sprayed onto the surface, after which it is allowed to dry. The material adheres well enough to the wall and forms a warm shell.. The final stage of work is the plastering of the facade or its finishing with various materials.

Warming of the facades of buildings built using frame technology is carried out by the dry method. Ecowool is simply poured into the cavity between the outer and inner lining.

Mineral wool

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside inexpensively and efficiently? Here the first place is confidently occupied by mineral wool. The material has good thermal insulation performance, is relatively inexpensive. In addition, it should be noted the clear installation technology and ease of processing. Mineral wool is safe for humans.

Thermal insulation of a house with mineral wool is an inexpensive and safe way to insulate your home

To choose a material, you need to consider three types of mineral wool:

• Stone (usually basalt) is produced in rigid slabs. It has all of the above benefits. It will be the best option for do-it-yourself work.
• Glass is available in mats rolled up. The main disadvantage is the inconvenience during installation. Glass wool pricks and causes irritation. Particles can get into the lungs, which will also not lead to good. When using such material, it is strongly recommended to wear overalls, gloves and a protective mask.
• Slag will be the most inexpensive option. But is it worth saving when building your own house? Insulation for the walls of the house outside in this case is made from industrial waste.

When using mineral wool, you need to know a few important points. To properly insulate the surface, you need to use a vapor barrier (fixed from the warm air side) and waterproofing (from the cold side). These layers will protect the material that can absorb water. When wet, cotton wool provides virtually no thermal insulation. To remove condensate from the outer surface of the material between the insulation and the outer finish, a ventilation gap of 3-5 cm wide is provided. This layer must necessarily communicate with the outside air.

Work performance technologies

How to insulate a house from the outside? For this, two methods are used. Both can be applied to almost any insulation material. The type of heat insulator has almost no effect on technology. But you need to take into account certain recommendations of the manufacturer. For example, as in the case of mineral wool, when a ventilation gap is needed.

There are two technologies:

• insulation of facades with a wet method;
• dry method, when a decorative coating is applied, fixed on the frame.

Wet facade

This method has a relatively low cost, loads the foundations of the building less. But it is important to note that the decorative coating cannot guarantee reliable protection against mechanical stress.

Insulation of external walls in this case is covered with a layer of plaster. Its thickness is usually 40 mm. To ensure strength, a reinforcing mesh (fiberglass or metal chain-link mesh) is used.

Wet method of thermal insulation involves covering the walls with decorative plaster

Insulation and decoration of the facade of the house are carried out in the following order:

1. cleaning the wall from dirt, leveling defects, surface treatment with a primer;
2. fixing the vapor barrier material, if necessary (for polystyrene foam and mineral wool);
3. installation of insulation boards on the adhesive composition (irrelevant for ecowool, it is simply sprayed onto the surface);
4. additional fixation with plastic dowels;
5. applying an adhesive solution to the surface of the insulation;
6. mesh reinforcement;
7. application of an adhesive primer after the adhesive has dried;
8. surface plastering.

How to insulate the facade of a wooden house with mineral wool? Only the wet method is suitable here. For other materials, you can choose one of two options.

As a reinforcing layer, it is better to choose fiberglass mesh

Finishing and insulating the facade of the house using this technology has one important drawback: over time, the plaster may begin to fall off. This is especially true if the external insulation of the facades was carried out using a metal mesh. It is recommended to choose a more expensive, but modern fiberglass.

dry method

Warming and finishing of facades in this case assumes the presence of a facing material. Most often, siding, lining, composite panels, etc. are used. Do-it-yourself insulation of houses from the outside will require a frame for fastening the cladding. The step-by-step instruction looks like this:

1. Cleaning the surface from dirt, leveling large defects.
2. Fixing vapor barrier material, if needed.
3. Installation of the frame for insulation from wooden blocks or boards. When using a metal profile, the racks are installed after the material for wall insulation is fixed from the outside. At this stage, you only need to provide brackets for mounting racks.
4. The next step is to attach the heat insulator to the glue. From below, you need to provide a starting profile, which will serve as a support for the first row. After the adhesive composition dries, do-it-yourself facade insulation is additionally fixed to plastic dowels-fungi.
5. Waterproofing and wind protection should be fixed on top of mineral wool or foam. For these purposes, it is recommended to choose a modern vapor-diffusion hydro-windproof membrane. How to fasten it correctly? The membrane or film is fixed on a construction stapler. The joints are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape.
6. After completing all the steps, you can proceed with the installation of the cladding. How to finish the facade in each case should be indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

The dry method of thermal insulation of walls involves the use of cladding and the installation of a ventilation gap

You can insulate walls with a dry method in almost any weather.. This favorably distinguishes the option from the previous one. Deciding how best to insulate a house depends on the type of finish chosen.

Material thickness calculation

This item will be an important stage of work. Before you insulate the walls, you will need to determine the thickness of the insulation. It is important to know that the value for a wooden facade and for a brick one will be different. This is because wood retains heat better. Also, the indicator depends on the climatic region of construction and the purpose of the building.

City	Recommended insulation thickness for external insulation, mm
St. Petersburg	100
Moscow	100
Yekaterinburg	100
Novosibirsk	150
Rostov	50
Samara	100
Kazan	100
Permian	100
Volgograd	100
Krasnodar	50

The calculation can be done in three ways:

• according to the formulas from the joint venture "Thermal protection of buildings";
• using the Teremok program;
• using various online calculators. The best option would be the Teremok program. It allows you to make accurate calculations and is easy to use. There is both an online version and a PC app.

This question is most of all interested in people living in their own home. Residents of cities rarely resort to external insulation of the walls of their apartments, as this is associated with high costs, including for the services of industrial climbers. However, many own some buildings in which it is necessary to create good conditions, including temperature ones. For example, a country house, a garage, a bathhouse.

Not everyone understands that insulation allows not only to create a comfortable microclimate in a particular building. External insulation of any structure also gives a purely economic effect. Firstly, there is no need to frequently turn on the elements of additional space heating. After all, electric heaters are mainly used for this. Therefore, you have to pay even more for energy than usual. Secondly, the lower temperature in the building (and if the humidity is also appropriate) also favors the fungus. And this is rotting or damage to walls, ceilings, things. And again - money "out of pocket": for repairs, for the purchase of a new thing.

Warming of the house outside is made by various materials. But when choosing a "insulation" you need to focus on what the walls of the house are made of, first of all. After all, each building material (in particular, insulation) has its own installation technology. It may turn out that it will be possible to insulate a specific house with the selected material, but this will require a lot of additional work. So, there will be a waste of time and again all the same money. Therefore, the choice must be optimal. Let's dwell on some heaters and consider the features of their installation.

Ways of external insulation of the house using various materials

It must be understood that external thermal insulation is the most effective. It does not reduce the "cubature" of the premises, does not accumulate moisture in the rooms, therefore, the walls do not "sweat". Thermal insulation of walls requires increased attention. Experts say that up to 30% of heat “leaves” through them. So, we begin to insulate with various materials.

Foam insulation

One of the most popular, lightweight and cheap insulation materials. To work with it, no special devices or technologies are required. However, you need to consider what belongs to the category of combustible building materials. The order of work will be as follows:

1. preparation of wall surfaces. It needs to be carefully aligned. Styrofoam is produced in plate format. If such a plate is applied to an uneven surface, then voids are formed. Firstly, with a mechanical impact on this place, the foam plastic will simply burst. Secondly, any isolated space is a potential accumulation of moisture, various insects, etc.;
2. as part of the preparation - the subsequent priming of the surface. If there are whitewash residues on the wall, for example, then the glue with which the foam will be attached simply will not “grab” with the wall. Therefore, it is necessary to wash and prime it well;
3. the next stage is the installation of ebbs (external). They must be leveled horizontally with a level, so that later you do not have to cut the foam plate;
4. before laying the plates, it is necessary to put the base. It is also called the "starter bar". It will not allow the plate to slide down, and it will be much easier to follow the line.

Lay foam boards start from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row depends on how the bottom plate is correctly set. Plates are "planted" on glue. Professionals recommend three days after the sticker to additionally fix them on nails (if the wall material allows this).

If a house made of timber is insulated with polystyrene foam, then all holes and cracks must be carefully sealed. Any material will do: mineral or ecowool, polyurethane foam or something else. The main thing is to eliminate air circulation, drafts.

Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation:

Insulated with mineral wool

This material has several names, and most often it is called briefly -. There are also names of glass wool, stone wool, mineral wool insulation. This material is based on fiberglass. On sale there are special plates made of this material, which are "sheathed" with external walls. For fixing such plates, special fittings are used. Stone wool "linerock" is especially popular. It insulates walls, roofs, attics. This material, unlike polystyrene, is flexible, so its installation does not require such careful surface preparation.

Insulation with polystyrene (foam)

As a rule, most often they are insulated with basements, cellars, foundations, walls. This material is one of the best in protecting buildings from groundwater. For external insulation, polystyrene boards and special plaster, which includes this material, are used. It must be borne in mind that several brands are produced. For the house fit "31" and "35". Warming is carried out in several stages.

• plates are glued to the wall with a plaster mixture;
• on top of the plate are covered again with one layer of the same mixture. This layer is needed for additional protection of the insulation material;
• an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is applied on top;
• the entire surface is primed;
• the last layer is at the choice of the owner. You can just paint, plaster. Can be covered with some decorative material. This is already a matter of taste.

Features of warming wooden houses

It should be borne in mind that any tree, no matter what breed it is, evaporates moisture. In such cases, it is said that it "breathes". It is for this reason that with external insulation of wooden buildings, you need to think about creating good ventilation of the walls. Experts recommend using glass wool or basalt wool as a heater. It's almost the same, the only difference is the price. Glass wool is cheaper.

Before installing the insulation, it is recommended to replace the wooden window frames with plastic ones. Installation begins after the installation of the frame. It is mounted from wooden slats, installed vertically (like a crate). The distance between the rails is chosen equal to the width of the insulating material plate. To fasten the plates to the rails, special dowels made of plastic are used.

First, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then - a heater. After installing the insulation layer, a special film (windproof) is attached on top. Its purpose is to “release” moisture from the wall, but not let it through from the outside. At the last stage, you can lay a layer, make wall cladding with siding.

Before you opt for any particular insulation, it is still better to consult with a specialist. After all, there can be no single recommendation for everyone. In addition to those features that have already been mentioned, other factors must be taken into account. For example, climatic conditions in the region of residence. This includes both humidity with its differences, and maximum and minimum ambient temperatures.

It is also necessary to take into account how the selected material reacts to aggressive chemicals, exposure to sunlight and the possibility of emitting harmful substances, etc. Therefore, the cost of the material should not be decisive, although it does matter.

The use of thermal insulation systems in building structures can significantly reduce heating costs. The use of various heaters makes it possible to accelerate the pace of construction and reduce the budget for building a house. In order for them to cope with their duties, you need to know how to choose them. Do you agree?

We will tell you how to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside. The article presented by us describes all the types of heat-insulating materials used in practice and the features of operation. Independent owners of country estates will find the technology of facade insulation with us.

Heat loss through walls averages about 40%, depending on the structural integrity and wall thickness. With rising prices for gas and electricity, it becomes unacceptable to spend money on street heating.

Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, which gives the following advantages:

• thermal insulation of the house from the outside does not take away the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe living space inside the building;
• the insulation layer performs decorative and protective functions for the walls, extending the period of their use;
• walls insulated from the outside do not freeze and are not saturated with moisture from steam, as with internal insulation;
• thermal insulation materials also perform a soundproofing function.

But the main reason for insulating the facade of the house is still economic, because this simple procedure can almost halve the amount in receipts for heating.

For a competent selection of material designed to reduce heat loss, you need. The article recommended by us will acquaint you with its examples and formulas.

Types of insulation materials

So what is the best way to insulate the house from the outside in order to reduce heat loss? Manufacturers offer many materials suitable for these purposes. But there are several main types. Among them: foam plastic, basalt wool, glass wool, extruded expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and others.

A less effective way of warming is considered to be the application of a layer of plaster on the outer part of the walls. This is an inexpensive way to reduce heat loss, but it requires experience and certain skills - just desire will not be enough.

External wall insulation requires certain professional skills from the performer. They are useful, both when choosing a material, and during its installation.

Wooden houses are often insulated with a double frame. In this case, any of the listed materials is attached to the walls, and cladding is performed on top. At the same time, an air “cushion” remains between the insulation and the decorative layers for air ventilation.

Option number 1 - foam

Expanded polystyrene has gained the greatest popularity among heat-insulating materials. First of all, this is due to its low cost. A distinctive feature of the insulation is also its low weight.

Other advantages of the material:

• low thermal conductivity;
• affordable cost;
• long service life.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the fact that the foam does not let steam through. This feature does not allow it to be used for warming wooden houses.

Among other shortcomings, it is also significant that expanded polystyrene is a combustible material that releases substances harmful to humans during combustion. In addition, the fragility of the material, which leads to damage to the insulation even with minor mechanical stress, greatly complicates its installation.

Styrofoam insulation is a great way to reduce heat loss, both in a private house and in an apartment or industrial enterprise, and for quite a bit of money

Option number 2 - mineral wool

This material is also well-deservedly popular with owners of residential and non-residential premises.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• high vapor permeability, which prevents wooden structures from rotting, and bricks are not saturated with moisture, which prevents the appearance of mold and fungi on the surface of the walls;
• low cost;
• low weight of mats, which makes it easier to work with them and reduce transportation costs;
• the material is not combustible, there are no toxic odors;
• long service life.

There are three types of mineral wool: slag wool, glass wool and stone (aka basalt). Each of the materials has its own characteristics.

Basalt wool is considered the most suitable for residential buildings, as it is made from safe raw materials, unlike glass wool. At the same time, the material is stronger and more durable than slag wool. But the high cost of basalt wool is its disadvantage.

Mineral wool, made in the form of mats, is the most practical option for insulating low walls and small rooms. And anyone who knows at least a little about construction will be able to cope with its installation.

Modern glass wool is considered safe to use. Unlike the material of the same name, made ten years ago, it does not irritate the respiratory tract. It can be used to insulate not only external, but also internal walls and ceilings.

Differs in convenience of installation, small weight. Can be purchased in rolls or slabs. It is more expedient to buy rolled material for warming long walls. And glass wool slabs are suitable for small walls.

There are the following advantages of the material:

• does not absorb moisture from the air;
• no toxic odors;
• does not ignite;
• does not change shape during operation;
• high performance vapor permeability;
• good soundproofing properties;
• does not interact with chemicals;
• can be used in all climatic zones of the planet.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than made in the form of plates. For cutting it, you can use ordinary sharpened knives.

There are not many shortcomings in the material. Among them:

• when insulating walls with glass wool, you need to work in protective gloves and goggles;
• fragility of the fibers of the material, due to which a lot of synthetic material is in the air during installation and prevents safe breathing.

Despite the fact that modern insulation material is much more environmentally friendly and safer for humans, with a significant amount of polymer particles in the air, it is better to use a respirator.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than made in the form of plates. For cutting it, you can use ordinary sharpened knives.

Option number 3 - e extruded polystyrene foam

Make this material from ordinary foam.

After special processing, it receives the following benefits:

• increased compressive strength;
• low moisture absorption;
• low flammability or its complete impossibility, which depends on the amount of flame retardant substance;
• reduced thermal conductivity.

For such material, you will have to pay a higher price than for ordinary foam. But more durable and reliable.

Another disadvantage is the smooth surface of the material plate. Because of this, solutions do not “seize” with it, therefore, without preliminary surface preparation, such foam cannot be used in the “wet facade” construction.

You will need to process the smooth side with fine sandpaper to give it a rough surface. Additionally, you can apply a layer of adhesive primer, which will increase the penetration of the solution into the insulation material.

Option number 4 - loose insulation

Bulk materials can also be used for external thermal insulation.

Among them, the most popular are:

• vermiculite;
• perlite crushed stone;
• expanded clay.

Vermiculite can be used not only for wall insulation outside the room, but also from the inside. They insulate sewer and water pipes, floors, attics, foundations. It can be made in the form of plates. There are technologies by which this material is added to concrete or solutions.

Vermiculite is a natural material that does not emit harmful toxic odors. Its advantages are: durability, lightness, fire resistance, low thermal conductivity and sound absorption. It also does not absorb moisture.

To insulate the outer wall, bulk material can be added to the mortar or poured between the main wall and the decorative wall, erected on a foundation of facing bricks. This method is more expensive, as it requires the expansion of the foundation. An additional load on the foundation slab is also assumed.

Vermiculite is sold in paper bags, usually 25 kg each. This is very convenient for transportation, because for delivery you can do with your own cars.

Perlite, depending on the fractions, can be of various sizes. It is also used for roof and floor insulation. It is a volcanic glass-like rock that is odorless. It is widely used not only in construction, but also in metallurgy, agriculture.

Material advantages:

• porous structure;
• low cost;
• easily absorbs and releases moisture without losing its qualities;
• resistance to fire;
• low thermal conductivity.

A perlite layer of only 3 cm has the same thermal insulation efficiency as a 25 cm wide brickwork.

Expanded clay- granular porous material obtained artificially. When burning several components (peat bog, intumescent clay, solar oil, sawdust, sulphate-alcohol stillage), low-melting raw materials are obtained. It is foamed and thermally processed into its final shape.

To save on the purchase of expanded clay, you need to buy it from the manufacturer. Of course, this is not always convenient, but there is a guarantee that the material is really of high quality.

The material is sold in fractions from 2 mm to 40 mm. Expanded clay from 10 mm to 20 mm is considered the most popular. It is they who need to fill the space between the walls - the main and decorative.

An interlayer of only 100 mm replaces brickwork of 1000 mm in terms of thermal conductivity. In the frosty season, the insulation will not allow the house to lose a lot of heat, and in the summer heat it will keep the room cool due to the extremely low thermal conductivity.

Advantages of wall insulation with expanded clay:

• this is one of the cheapest heaters;
• reduction of heat losses reaches 75%;
• can be used at any outdoor temperature and humidity;
• long service life;
• there is no combustion and decay of the material;
• expanded clay does not attract insects and rodents;
• you can insulate the house yourself, as high technical skills and special tools are not required.

Expanded clay can be poured into the layer between the decorative and load-bearing walls in its pure form, or mixed with cement. Proportion 1:10 - one part of cement and ten parts of expanded clay. You will need a concrete mixer and water to dissolve the cement. The empty space between the walls is poured with the finished mixture.

It looks like a cement mixture with expanded clay, which can be poured as a heater between two walls. Of course, insulation with a cement mixture is a rather lengthy process, but it's worth it.

You can also do otherwise: first pour expanded clay to a height of 300 mm, and then soak it with prepared cement "milk". Then add insulation again. And so repeat until the height of the insulation reaches the desired level.

Any of the methods will not worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Facade insulation technologies

There are three main technologies for facade insulation:

• "well" method- arrangement of a multilayer wall;
• "wet" method- under plastering;
• "dry" method- technology "ventilated facade".

Depending on the chosen one, thermal insulation materials suitable for implementation should be selected.

"Wet" method is the application of a finishing coating on a layer of insulation in the form of a plaster mixture. Since the mixture is rich in moisture, it is necessary to use only materials that do not absorb water. Styrofoam is best suited for this, but mineral wool is also used.

Depending on the strength of the wall and the integrity of the brickwork, the plaster system can be "light" or "heavy". In the first case, the main goal is to reduce the weight of the thermal insulation layer.

The insulation is fixed to the wall with glue and dowels. Outside, it is protected by a metal profile made of thin aluminum. Only a thin decorative layer of plaster is applied to it to level the surface of the wall and give it a finished visual appearance.

In the "heavy" system, the insulation is fixed with metal anchors and pressed against the reinforcing mesh. A layer of plaster of 5-5.5 cm is applied on top. This design is reliably protected from temperature extremes and moisture.

With the "dry" method insulation plaster is not used at all. The insulation is fixed on the wall with glue and mounting "umbrellas". In this case, it is ideal, for which telescopic fasteners with wide hats and other mounting elements are specially produced.

From the outside, the insulation is protected by a membrane layer, the main task of which is to provide protection from atmospheric water. The membrane is fixed with remote metal or wooden slats, which form a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the cladding.

The gap width is up to 5 cm. The sheathing layer can be made of various panels: wooden, steel. It can also be laying in "half-brick", tile or siding. This method of insulation is more durable, in contrast to the "wet", and can reach a service life of half a century.

By multi-layer technology the surface is insulated with two more layers: from a heater and an external brick wall. This method of insulation has been described above. Various bulk materials are suitable for it, which are resistant to steam, condensate and moisture (expanded clay, perlite, etc.).

For a competent choice of insulation, you need to take into account several more factors that can affect the quality of the work performed.

Condition of walls and foundations. If the house is old, and the foundation or brickwork has already cracked, then it is necessary to abandon heavy insulation structures. In this case, the installation of light and durable materials is best suited. It is better to fix them with the help of special adhesive compositions.

The architectural complexity of the building. Styrofoam and mineral wool are well processed and make it possible to provide reliable insulation of walls with recesses, patterns and other decorative elements.

Insect and rodent resistance. Often, small rodents and insects, such as mice or ants, can make nests under a layer of heat insulator.

If there is such a problem on the site, then it would be advisable to conduct insulation using bulk materials. Expanded clay is well suited, as it does not attract animals.

It is also necessary to take into account other factors, such as the price of the insulation, the features of its installation, the material of the walls, the impact on the environment, resistance to fire, etc.

If you plan to install a thermal insulation system from inside the house, it is worth reading, which details the materials and methods for their use.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To avoid common mistakes when choosing materials for insulation, we recommend watching the following videos:

With all the variety of available materials and methods of insulation, you can always choose the most suitable one. Despite the fact that some works seem easy to perform, it is better to entrust them to experienced builders and heat engineers.

Do you want to talk about how you selected insulation for arranging your own country house? Do you have information that will be useful to site visitors? Please write comments, ask questions on controversial or interesting points, post a photo in the block below.