Flooring for your home. How to make a floor in a private house on your own? Wooden floor - types

Natural building materials are considered quite relevant in application. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many suburban buildings.

They are quite popular, as the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of their flooring technology.

Choice of option

Such a question sooner or later confronts every owner who plans to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First you need to decide how the floor will be installed in a private house.

To date, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

Located on logs (cuts) on the ground.
Mounted on brick (concrete) pedestals.
Flooring on a cement screed.

The advantage that a wooden floor has in a private house over a concrete counterpart is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will require replacement over time.

Of all the known methods of flooring, a concrete base is considered the most durable. But the material is very cold, so it is necessary to lay a wooden covering on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for the floor without flaws

For example, the system of laying wooden floors in a private house, located on the ground floor, is considered. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

lags (cuts);
draft floors;
waterproofing;
thermal insulation;
finishing floors;
finishing flooring.

The structure is located on supporting pillars or beams made of cement mortar or brick. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, and this free space can also be used to store canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground is thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, the arrangement of a full-fledged basement floor is allowed.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, because thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the level of groundwater penetration has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. Waterproofing in this case, you need to pay special attention.

Material selection

For logs, choose resinous wood

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore it is recommended to use only durable wood for their installation, and it is also necessary to choose materials that fit the following characteristics:

From what percentage of moisture the fiber has, the service life of the floors will depend. Otherwise, you will have to dry the boards thoroughly and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
The device of the floor in the house is recommended to be performed only from boards and timber that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need for a short period of repair of the structure.
Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
The board made of oak, ash and beech has the greatest strength. The disadvantage of these types of wood materials is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, sawn timber from coniferous species is most common: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the ventilation holes

When laying the floors with your own hands, you definitely need to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small grate with a cell size of more than 10 mm will serve as an obstacle to the entry of mice and rats.

Poles or beams

The installation of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base columns. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, a tree of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about flooring in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, use a tape measure and lacing. The rope is stretched between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Further, you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the columns depends on the thickness of the lag or overcut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance allowed to be made.

To accurately determine the distance between the columns, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. The best option would be to fill separate foundations under them, extending to a depth of 50 - 100 cm.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5 - 10 cm, after which a waterproofing layer is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and facilitate your work, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance during the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuts)

Waterproofing is placed under the wooden logs

Before you make wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay a wooden beam on the pillars aligned at the same height, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. On the stone surface it is necessary to place hydroprotection, for this it is allowed to use roofing material.

A beam is laid on top, which must be fixed on the basis of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners that are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and fixed, they must be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal was not observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Floorboard installation

Depending on the chosen method of how the floor will be installed in a private house, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

To make a double wooden coating with a heater placed inside, it will take much more time and consumables.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, tongue-and-groove boards 4–5 cm thick are laid on them. Fixing to the beam is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. Having completed the laying, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the erected floor.

Mostly a single floor is mounted for a country summer house, which is used only in warm weather.

Double with insulation

If the floor is being laid for a house in which you will live permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate location of thermal insulation. Such technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information about installing a wooden floor, see this video:

Its installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 cm from the extreme board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires mandatory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this field can do this work.

The simplicity of the construction of the boardwalk is apparent. And it's not just that the ultimate load must be taken into account; for example, for the floors of the basement floor of a private house and the attic, it is different. Wood is a material, although malleable in processing, but “capricious” in its own way, as it easily undergoes deformation when humidity and temperature change. In addition, there is a specificity of its laying, depending on the type of base (floor). It is realistic to mount a high-quality wooden floor with your own hands, only having dealt with all the nuances of this work.

A wooden floor is a somewhat vague concept. Basically, when it comes to such a design of the lower part of the room, it means laying boards on the supporting structure. But if further, “finishing” finishing with other material (laminate, parquet board or something else) is supposed, then mainly products (slabs, sheets) based on wood are used - multilayer plywood, chipboard, OSV, MDF.

The main purpose of such flooring is maximum leveling and ensuring sufficient surface strength. But there is no need to talk about a wooden field in a private house as such in such cases; this is his intermediate version, "finishing".

How to choose the right boards? When arranging a wooden floor in a private house, it is definitely not worth saving on them. Otherwise, such problems will arise (cracks, grooves in the flooring, deformation of individual floorboards) that subsequent repairs (taking into account the complexity of the work associated, among other things, with the need to free the room from everything) will be much more expensive.

Board type. Only grooved. Do-it-yourself processing at home is a very complex process, requiring practical skills, appropriate tools (which are not available in every home), time and a separate room.

There is another option - from the glue beam. But this lumber is used, as a rule, in the rooms of a private house with an increased load on the floor, since it is not cheap.

Linear parameters (mm). Here it must be taken into account that the tree must provide not only high strength of the flooring, but also good thermal insulation of the lower part of the room. The optimal dimensions are: total thickness - 45 ± 5 (depending on the specifics of the room), width - around 150.
moisture content of wood. 12% is the acceptable upper limit of its value. Therefore, you should purchase an industrial drying board. Naturally, it will be expensive. But all recommendations on how to remove excess moisture from a tree on your own are nothing more than profanity. It is necessary to choose an appropriate place on the site, to make a competent stacking of lumber, to organize its protection from moisture, good ventilation, acceptable temperature conditions. And most importantly, wait. And this is time. Moreover, a high result is not yet guaranteed.

The grade of the tree. And in this regard, it is irrational to buy cheap boards. Not only that, even paint, especially varnish, will not hide large flaws in the form of knots, chips, and so on. Defects in the floorboards during the operation of the wooden floor will become more and more pronounced. The cracks will only get bigger; knots fly out of the boards, and “pits” or through holes will appear in their place.
Type of wood. Here it is desirable to maintain the optimal ratio between such properties of lumber as strength, beautiful texture and resistance to geometry changes under the influence of external factors. Experienced craftsmen recommend paying attention to oak and ash. Such boards are expensive, but for a wooden floor they are considered the best, as they are able to carry an increased load.

If this factor is not decisive, larch, fir, cedar or pine are perfect for floors.

The degree of protection of the tree. In production, more expensive products are impregnated with special / preparations from decay, ignition. This can be implemented (even recommended) with your own hands, but only in terms of secondary (additional) processing. It will not be possible to recreate industrial technology at home, therefore, the quality of work will be low.

What lags are used? Here you need to understand that during operation, any materials (even if visually imperceptible) change their geometry. Consequently, the integrity of the structure also depends on how much the coefficients of deformation of its elements coincide. For the installation of a wooden floor, metal profiles (although it is more convenient to work with them) are not suitable, only lumber. The recommended timber parameters are 100 x 100. This is a universal choice for floors in any room. Smaller samples (for example, 50 x 50) will have to be tightly “fastened” to the screed (otherwise the flooring will “play”), and this is not always possible or rational.

When should you do wood flooring? Experts consider the best period to be the end of March - the beginning of April, that is, before the end of the heating period. There are several justifications.

At this time, it is easy to achieve the most comfortable conditions for such work. If necessary, effective ventilation can be arranged so that wood dust does not overcrowd the room. Then technical devices will not be needed.
The air humidity in the room is optimized. This ensures that the lumber does not absorb water, except perhaps in a minimal amount.
The nuances of arranging the screed are such that you will have to wait for it to completely harden. And the worse the external conditions, the longer.

As an option - in the summer. But the arrangement of the wooden floor should be started if weather forecasters guarantee stable dry weather for at least the next 10 days.

Preparatory work

Further - all stages, regardless of the specifics of the premises in a private building. What needs to be done in relation to the features of a particular room (location in the house, size, degree of arrangement, etc.) is easy to understand.

The foundation

This can be both a floor and a ground, if the floors are arranged on the basement floor. In any case, there are a number of activities.

Surface condition assessment and elimination of deficiencies

In relation to the ground, it is carefully leveled, compacted (the simplest rammer is easy to make with your own hands), and a sand cushion is arranged (the recommended layer thickness is about 20 cm). It performs two main functions - more accurate planning (levelling) and mitigation of the possible deformation of the upper levels when the load changes.

If we are talking about a concrete floor (interfloor), then the slabs are thoroughly washed, after which, during the inspection, existing defects are revealed. Any cracks, loose joints are sealed. Otherwise, in the future, possible leaks into the lower room and heat loss cannot be avoided.

Foundation waterproofing

If the base is soil, then it is advisable to immediately cover it with a film. Depending on the size of the room, you can either buy a membrane that will completely cover the floor (it will be more expensive), or make its original analogue by fastening several canvases by welding (you will need a special tool) or with adhesive tape, laying them with an overlap. The nuance is that the edges of the film should be bent up, approximately to the level of the intended installation of skirting boards. They will also close the excess waterproofing.

Arrangement of the screed

This is a separate and rather large topic (composition of the mixture, ratio of components, kneading rules - there are enough nuances). Therefore, only the main points.

Materials are selected based on the financial capabilities of the owner of a private house and the type of surface. If we are talking about overlapping, then the screed is made thin, with leveling compounds. For a soil base, it is advisable to pour expanded clay on the waterproofing.

The advantages of this solution:

round (comparatively) granules will not damage the polyethylene film under any circumstances. If you use crushed stone, then its breakthroughs in several places will appear unambiguously;
expanded clay is a good heat insulator. Therefore, it is possible to save some money on the material of the insulation (if it is to be mounted).

The recommended layer thickness (in mm) is from 40 to 100. You should focus on the size of the "pebbles"; the larger they are, the more layer is required, since gaps are formed between them, increasing heat loss. Small granules are stacked quite tightly, therefore the layer can be made smaller.

Advice. Costs can be optimized if you purchase expanded clay of different fractions. Then its thickness will be no more than 50 - 70. But only well-dried granules should be laid; they will begin to draw excess moisture "on themselves" (that is, absorb), additionally protecting the tree from dampness.

It is advisable to install the beacons and level them immediately, before pouring the solution. After leveling it, you will have to wait for the screed to dry completely (at least 4 weeks, and then, under favorable conditions in the house). This largely explains why experts recommend certain periods for organizing wooden floors in a private house.

It is impossible to accelerate this process artificially (with the help of technical devices in the form of heaters, heat guns, and so on). Such rationalization will result in the fact that the screed will dry out unevenly over the entire depth. The top layer will set quickly and literally clog the surface. This will drastically reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture from the lower levels. As a result, a decrease in the strength of such a base and the appearance of cracks.

Installation lag

In a private house, they can be laid directly on the base, without arranging a screed (for example, in the basement). In this case, it is advisable to prepare small brick racks. Here the main attention is on the upper sections of such supports. They must be in the same (horizontal) plane. To prevent the beam from moving, a metal pin or wooden insert is placed in the center of each post. It is not difficult to guess how to fix the lag in this or that case.

If the logs are laid directly on the ground or screed, then it is desirable to treat the lower planes of the timber with tar. The work is easy, and it does not require money. The advantage of this solution is the additional protection of wood from absorbing moisture from a damp surface.

Sometimes, a supporting frame (crate) is preliminarily mounted on the supports, to which the logs are “fastened” with self-tapping screws. As a rule, this is done when laying them directly on the ground or slab, since the pillow may not provide perfect alignment.

The recommended interval between lags is about half a meter. If more, the strength of the flooring decreases; less - increases the consumption of materials and the load on the floor. In addition, there will be problems with the installation of a heat-insulating layer.

Wooden floor insulation

Do it or not worth it - it's up to the owner. This largely depends on the specifics of the room. But if it is unheated, or residential, located on the lower floor, then additional thermal insulation in the form of expanded clay and the boards themselves are clearly not enough. The best choice for warming a wooden floor is mineral wool. It is sold in various modifications, but products with the prefix "eco" are considered the best for a private home.

The material is elastic, therefore, even if the lag axial lines do not coincide (the "cells" are curved), it is quite easy to lay the mats; they compress slightly and are easy to fit into place. And after straightening, they are securely held between the lags, while there are no gaps along the beam-insulation line. Therefore, gap sealing is not required.

When choosing mineral wool in thickness, you need to focus on the fact that after installing the mats (plates) between the lags, they are slightly lower than their upper cut. This is necessary to form a small space under the wooden floor, through which air can circulate freely. Natural ventilation helps to remove excess moisture from under the flooring, thereby protecting the boards and insulation from moisture.

Finished floor installation

It is carried out in 1 or 2 rows. A single-row floor is arranged, as a rule, in utility rooms, country houses, sheds and the like. For most of the rooms in a residential building - only if a thick board is chosen or a "finish" lining with parquet or laminate is supposed.

With a double plank field, the boards are taken thinner (the main thing here is the total thickness of the flooring). The advantage is that cheap lumber is suitable for the first level; and this gives some savings. Sometimes the owners of private houses lay a film between the rows, which also partially reduces heat loss and increases the degree of waterproofing.

Features of laying a wooden floor

A small gap is left between the walls and the floorboards (about 1.5 - 2 cm) so that the flooring does not begin to warp when the wood expands or gets wet. In addition, this installation scheme guarantees effective natural ventilation of the space under the floor. Therefore, the risk of mold and mildew on the boards is minimized.
The first board (from any edge) is rigidly attached to the joists; and self-tapping screws. If you use nails, then problems will arise in the future - individual floorboards will begin to “play”, and the creak of the boards will constantly be heard in the house.
Their adjustment is done with a hammer and a piece of board, carefully so that the tenon fits snugly into the groove along the entire length of the sample. But this is the case with the profile board. If an ordinary edged one is bought, the technology changes.

First, the extreme boards are fixed on the logs. All the rest, in turn, fit between them simultaneously from both directions. Naturally, in the center of the room there will be difficulties; the last floorboards will not lie exactly in place. They are put in a “house”, and then they are pressed down, standing on his “horse”.

The last stage is screwing all the boards to the joists at pre-designated points. Beforehand, a chamfer is made in each of them so that the head of the fastener is completely “drowned” in the tree.

It has already been noted that self-tapping screws should be used as fasteners. The nuance is that you need to choose not ordinary products, but with a coating against corrosion. Otherwise, rust spots will appear quite quickly in the places where the boards are fixed to the joists.
It is advisable to “walk” along the lines of the joints of the floorboards with a grinder. If wooden floors are equipped in a private house, then it is worth buying it; it will be needed again, and more than once. Processing the seams will smooth out the existing irregularities between the boards. This is especially true for decks that are supposed to be varnished, which is most often done to preserve the grain of the wood.

It turns out that when installing a wooden floor in a private house, it is quite possible to do without the services of professionals. Following the above recommendations, all stages of work are easy to do with your own hands.

The construction of a private house is a rather lengthy process that requires a certain amount of time and considerable effort. Many owners of suburban areas want to save on construction by doing some of the work with their own hands. To figure out how to make wooden floors in a private house, you should take care of the preparation of materials, as well as the choice of the necessary tools.

The choice of floor design

Before starting work, you should select the type of floor construction. Among the most common are the following varieties:

single;
double;
concrete floor.

The choice of a particular design is based on the features of the building in which the floor will be laid. The main factor influencing such a decision is the nature of the operation of the house. When choosing a single design, it should be borne in mind that it is only suitable for summer houses or summer cottages. The device of such a floor in a house with year-round living is unacceptable.

The boardwalk in this case is simply laid on the logs. The thermal insulation of such a floor is very low. For the construction of such foundations, it is not necessary to prepare a lot of material. Work on the installation of a single floor is carried out quite quickly.

If you decide to build a capital private house in which you can live at any time, you should start building a double floor. This design is more insulated than a single version. The main layers of such a floor are the rough and finish coatings. Between them are placed layers of hydro and thermal insulation. Such a floor device is able to protect the entire structure of the house from destruction.

Often the draft layer of a double floor in a country house is made of unedged boards. Fine finish is made of grooved board. All stages of work can be carried out independently. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay.

Another option for creating a floor in a private house is a concrete base. Such structures are carried out by pouring concrete screed. If you follow all the requirements when creating such such a floor, it will turn out to be durable and strong. It can also be finished with any coating.

Wood flooring

A wooden floor for creating a coating in private homes is chosen quite often. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have a quality wood flooring. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

With careful processing, wooden flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance and physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, the installation of wooden flooring is done by hand. For work, you will need to prepare a standard set of tools.

Before you make a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of building. The floor is arranged from several layers. It must have thermal and waterproofing. The subfloor acts as an air gap. Due to it, wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or fungus.

The floor covering is constantly under mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical performance. Boards must be dried before coating. The moisture content of wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. They should not have chips or cracks. Otherwise, it may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before laying, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

First you need to determine the location of the supports. Gravel should be poured in place of the harvested fertile soil. Sand falls on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be carefully compacted. The ends of the supporting pillars are wrapped with waterproofing material. Usually, roofing material is used for this purpose.
After that, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders recommend laying plywood sheets before installing the insulation. Mineral wool is usually used as the insulation material.
When the insulation layer is laid, you can begin the rough flooring. Boards should be chosen in such a way that they fit snugly against each other. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to exclude structural distortions during thermal expansion.
A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It usually has a thickness of 200 microns. The joints of the canvas are glued with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are wound onto the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should start laying the finish coat.

Solid wood boards are used for the finishing floor. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, their appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose grooved boards. Plywood can be covered with various decorative finishes. The floor of the boards is usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, thanks to the use of varnish, the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor can be emphasized. You can build a warm floor with your own hands in the case of constructing a concrete screed.

Concrete floor

Creating a concrete base requires some preparation. First, the site on which it is planned to create a floor must be cleared of debris. You also need to remove the top layer of soil. The earth must be rammed. Gravel is poured on top. The concrete floor structure must be thermally insulated. The gravel layer is covered with sand. As soon as it is rammed, you can lay a plastic wrap. It will become a reliable waterproofing.

Then the work is carried out according to the standard scheme. Reinforcement bars are placed on the waterproofing layer and concrete mortar is poured. Concrete screed in this case is performed similarly to the one that is equipped in the apartment. To make the floor even, you need to set the beacons. As soon as the concrete dries, they should be removed. The solution is leveled using the rule. Work is carried out from the wall towards the doorway.

In the process of pouring concrete mortar, it is better to do the work according to certain rules. For example, the mixture must be fresh. Also, in the process of its preparation, cement of a certain brand is used. It must be at least M300. In addition, water and sand screening are added to the solution. Plasticizers increase the strength of concrete.

If the screed is more than 5 cm, reinforcement should be laid. For this purpose, a ready-made mesh is usually purchased. It is laid on a waterproofing film. When creating a floor heating system in a country house, the use of plasticizers and reinforcement is mandatory.

Once the concrete has gained strength, you can pull out the beacons and fill the resulting voids with concrete mortar. Completely hardening of concrete takes about a month. A warm floor in a private house will require the installation of heating elements either during the execution of the screed or after its construction.

Drying the floor is carried out according to certain rules. The base should be covered with plastic wrap. Within three days, the concrete must be wetted. If the screed has a floor heating system, it is forbidden to turn it on until the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, the floor will crack.

fine finish

Laying the finish coat is quite simple. Decorative elements are mounted independently. The choice of finishing depends on the tastes of the owner of the house. It is also worth considering the features of the operation of the floor.

There are several options. The most common of these is boardwalk. The finished floor in this case does not need to be additionally closed. When choosing this option, a rather beautiful and practical coating is obtained. In addition, floor boards will last for decades if properly processed. They are usually impregnated with special compounds and varnished. This allows you to protect the floor from the effects of dirt and various chemicals.

The concrete floor in a country house is usually performed taking into account the laying of the finish coating. For its decoration, parquet is usually chosen. However, such a floor will be quite expensive. It is characterized by high environmental friendliness and an excellent degree of thermal insulation. It is impractical to carry out a parquet floor in a country house, because permanent residence is not planned in it. However, for a capital structure, such coverage will be optimal.

Among other materials for the floor, it is worth highlighting carpet, laminate, tile and linoleum. Laminate is laid in the living room and bedrooms. Linoleum is suitable only for the floor in the hallway and kitchen. Tiles are also used for flooring in the kitchen and hallway. For the bedroom, you should also use carpet.

The variety of modern colors and flooring materials allows you to choose the most optimal flooring option for yourself. Floors with different patterns look very nice. Natural stone and wood look spectacular.

conclusions

To figure out which types of flooring are more suitable for a private house, you should know the features of the operation of the building. For example, for a country house, you do not need to equip the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in the warm season. Also, the installation of floors in a private house is usually performed using wood. Such material has a low price, and is also simply and quickly mounted.

For capital buildings, a more complex structure will have to be equipped. At the same time, the wooden floor must have several layers, including hydro and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you need to carefully prepare. You will also have to choose high-quality materials. Before deciding what type of flooring to make in a private house, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete base is carried out in stages. It is chosen only if necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

It's no secret that the convenience of living in a house largely depends on high-quality floors. The installation of the basement ceiling is carried out using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures using the “self-leveling floor” technology. The floors in a private house should be smooth, durable, retain heat and have aesthetic qualities.

Floor types

The question of what to make the floor in the house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, there is a need for a detailed study of the varieties of sexes, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.

wood flooring

Wooden floors look spectacular, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and long service life, and allow for repairs as needed.

Installation of a wooden floor implies the presence of the following materials: timber at least 15 cm thick, edged boards at least 2.5 cm thick, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Timber and boards must be taken dry, their moisture content should not exceed 12%.

As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film or roofing material is suitable. There are many vapor barrier membranes on the market. Mineral wool slabs, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay can serve as a heater. You will also need nails and screws, metal corners, a hammer and a screwdriver.

The installation of a wooden coating goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, on which a sand cushion is then created. It needs to be waterproofed. If roofing material is used, then the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.

Further along the perimeter of the house, a strapping beam is installed, to which logs are attached using metal corners. All bars are pre-treated with protective compounds. The distance between the lags should be maintained, equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, then they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing the log.

Then, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched over the lag and insulation with an overlap, the joints of which are glued with special adhesive tape. The final stage involves the installation of boards. They are also recommended to be treated with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.

Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas

When the wooden floor is ready, it can be varnished, or linoleum can be laid on it.

Concrete floors

Most often, concrete floors in a private house are arranged in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. Filling the floor is carried out according to the following scheme.

If necessary, a small pit with a depth of 10 cm is first dug in the area of \u200b\u200bfuture pouring. Then a cushion of sand with a thickness of at least 5 cm is made, which is carefully rammed. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are set up, by which it will be possible to monitor the evenness of the surface.

Concrete will gain its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to proceed to fine finishing. Options for such finishes are tile or linoleum on a thick base.

Linoleum is used in living rooms, tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or simply lies freely, fixed along the walls with a plinth. A special glue is used for laying tiles.

Bulk coating

For the device of such a floor in a private house, special mixtures are used, which are self-leveled after they are applied. This is one of the most popular ways of flooring in country houses. The cost of self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.

In addition, there are options for floors with a pattern or in color, which is also reflected in the price. The basis of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with a special nozzle, the bulk mixture is diluted with water. The solution is applied to the primed substrate in small portions and rolled out with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.

The finished floor for a better set of strength is covered with plastic wrap, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the solution has completely hardened, it can be coated with polyurethane varnish to give it a shine.

The coating will be ready for full use in a week, and you can move on it already 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main one. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.

If there is a financial opportunity and the floors are made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to consider what kind of pattern will be located on the floor, and then contact a company specializing in these issues. She will make a photo of the floor in the house, making a printout on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.

Underfloor heating technology

The most convenient and practical option is the device of a warm floor in a private house. Allocate floors with a water and electrical system. Electric floors are popular in small rooms of apartments or country houses. The main condition for the installation of electric floors is the presence of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy load.

The electric floor heating system has only the disadvantage that it consumes a lot of electricity.

In the case of underfloor heating in large rooms, which, moreover, do not have central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save electricity.

The water floor as a heat source has water heated by the boiler, circulating through pipes built into the floor. The role of heating elements is assigned to metal-plastic pipes (there are options for using plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and are connected to the supply and return manifolds through the distribution mechanism. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of +35-45°C. Higher temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable and subsequently lead to its destruction.

The water heating system has a number of advantages:

heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
as an independent unit makes it possible to effectively use the living space (in the absence of radiators);
Economical compared to electric underfloor heating despite high installation costs

What kind of floors to make in a private house in each case is always decided on an individual basis. At the same time, it is necessary to measure the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the intricacies of all options, the advantages and disadvantages of a particular type of flooring, you can eventually achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.

Photo of floors in a private house

Any person who is thinking about building a home, among the naturally arising questions, also has this question - how to make a floor in a house? This is one of the most important points, since not only the heat in the rooms, but also the durability of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the work performed and the chosen method. Therefore, before choosing the type of future floor, you need to carefully consider and calculate everything.

Both in a wooden and a brick house, the floors of the first floor can be done in different ways, and much in this choice will depend on the height of the basement of the building. So, the floor can be arranged with:

Concrete screed made in an already built house or before the walls were erected;

Log and floor beams with plank or plywood flooring;

Dry screed of the desired thickness;

Complex construction, when a wooden coating or a dry screed is laid on a concrete base.

In addition, you need to know that the screed can be made in different ways, taking into account which decorative coating will be laid on top of it, as well as whether any work will be carried out on its additional insulation. Therefore, all options must be considered.

Filling the screed on the ground before the construction of walls

Such a base is made immediately after the strip foundation hardens. Such a screed is designed for the fact that the floor will be insulated in the future, otherwise it will remain cold, which means that the temperature in the house will be uncomfortable.

The convenience of installing a concrete base in this case lies in the freedom of action. When the walls have not yet been raised, you can freely level the soil inside the frozen foundation and bring the material for backfilling pillows under the screed. In addition, you can also order a ready-made solution from a company engaged in the manufacture and delivery of building materials, and it will be possible to bring it to the right place, pour it and distribute it without any problems. This will save you from the long and laborious work on the independent production of large volumes of concrete.

Another advantage of this approach to pouring the screed can be considered a good strengthening of the foundation and further convenience in the construction of walls.

The work is carried out in stages, and the first of them consists in leveling and, if necessary, removing excess soil. It is removed so that pillows of sand and gravel take its place.
At the site of the future screed, the soil is carefully compacted.
A sand cushion is poured on top, which will serve as a kind of waterproofing. Every 10 cm of sand thickness is wetted and well compacted before the next layer is poured.
Crushed stone laid on the sand will give the screed strength. The thickness of the layer will depend on the height of the foundation, and in general the screed should rise to the level of the basement.
Next, a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100 × 100 mm is placed on the compacted and leveled crushed stone.
After reinforcement, concrete mortar is poured. Since the concrete base will be further insulated, and the floors, in most cases, will rise to the logs, the mortar does not need to be made thin - it can consist of cement and gravel. For the same reason, excessively high requirements are not imposed on the careful leveling of the surface, although the “cleaner” the resulting base is, the easier the further stages of work will go.
In order for the concrete layer to be durable, during the hardening process, starting from the second day after pouring, it is moistened with water.

When the base is ready, you can build walls and do roofing, and further work on the flooring and insulation of the real floor is carried out after installing windows and doors.

Video: pouring a concrete base floor before building walls

Screed on the ground in an already built house

If the house is built, and the flooring is left as the last final stage before finishing the walls, the base for the screed is prepared a little differently.

The first action is performed in the same way as in the first case - the soil is leveled and compacted.
Next comes a very important point - this is the laying of waterproofing. In this case, it is best to use roofing material. It will protect the screed from moisture, and hence the walls.

They also make waterproofing from ordinary polyethylene, but you only need to choose a material that has a large thickness. But this is not the best option, since the plastic film becomes brittle over time from interaction with cements, and waterproofing will not be highly reliable.

In any case, the waterproofing must be airtight, so the sheets are overlapped by 10-15 cm and glued together - polyethylene - with adhesive tape, and roofing material with bituminous mastic, heating it with a gas burner.

Sheets of material are lifted onto the walls and fixed. The waterproofing layer should be raised to a height slightly higher than the future screed.

It is not recommended to cut the waterproofing material in the corners - it must be carefully folded and also fixed.

After the waterproofing is arranged, preparation for pouring the screed can be done in different ways:

The most popular backfill option is expanded clay of the largest fraction. If the underground is deep enough and thermal insulation is carried out with expanded clay, it is laid in layers. Additional waterproofing layers can be laid between the layers.

Another backfill method may be an option similar to that used when laying before the walls are erected. Pillows of sand and gravel are laid on the waterproofing, their thickness will depend on the height of the basement walls. A polyethylene film is laid on top of these compacted layers, on top of which expanded clay is poured, which acts as a heater.

After backfilling and compaction of all layers, the reinforcing mesh is fixed. A screed solution is laid out on it. This may be a rough rough screed, which is made of cement and gravel, but it will need to be leveled on top with a finer concrete mortar.

If there are not so many layers, and the entire backfill consists only of expanded clay, then it will be enough only to finish pouring with concrete mortar and leveling it according to the installed beacons.

Wooden floor on logs

Usually, a plank floor is laid in a wooden house, but if desired, it can also be made in a brick or panel building. Again, there are several options for arranging a wooden floor on logs.

1. The basis for wooden flooring is sometimes made immediately upon completion of work on the foundation.

The floor beams are laid on the foundation, after laying several layers of roofing material under them and treating the end of the log or massive bar with protective antiseptic and waterproofing agents. Beams should lie at a distance of 1-1, 5 meters from each other.
Next, logs will be fixed on them, on which a subfloor is then arranged, and floorboards are nailed.

This option can be applied if the rooms in the house are not designed to be too wide. Another way could be so-called, "floating floor".

2. The design features of the "floating" floor are that for the floor beams, the support is not the foundation walls, but brick or concrete columns that are installed on the ground in the underground space.

The columns are set at a distance of 1-1, 5 meters from each other. For them, pits are dug in size based on the perimeter of the pillars, adding 7-10 cm to it.
The bottom of the pits is strengthened with a rammer and cushions of gravel and sand. Then waterproofing is laid and a brick column is laid out. Its height can be different, depending on the depth of the underground. All columns must be aligned to the same horizontal level.
When the masonry mortar is thoroughly dry, roofing material waterproofing is laid on top of the pillars. Bearing beams or logs will be fixed on them. Further, just as in the first variant, they arrange a rough and finishing floor. In addition, insulation can be carried out.

The black floor is arranged from boards, which are fixed on the underside of the log. Boards can be tightly fitted to each other or fixed at a distance. The first option is used if fine fraction insulation is poured into the cells. The second is suitable for laying mineral wool or foam mats.
Before laying insulation on the black floor, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier material.

A heater is laid on it, which, in turn, is also covered with a vapor barrier film, and only then plywood or boards are fixed.

3. The next way to lay boards or plywood on logs is a structure, the basis for which will be a concrete screed.

On a concrete base, markings are made for the correct placement of the lag. Bars are laid out along the drawn lines. They can be fixed directly to concrete, or they can be raised to the required height with the help of special supporting elements - adjustable racks. Both in one and in the other case, the logs are aligned along one horizontal level in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

After installing the log, floor insulation is usually carried out using mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene or other modern materials.
The insulation is covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane. At the final stage, plywood sheets or boards are covered.

Video: an example of a floor device on wooden logs

Using a dry screed

With the help of a dry screed, floors can be made both on the ground and on a concrete base. Installation of a dry screed floor is quite simple and done quickly enough.

If the soil of the underground is raised high enough, then, having made it reliable, you can immediately backfill it with fine expanded clay. However, in order to avoid subsidence of the floor during any emergency (for example, during flooding during heavy snowmelt), it is strongly recommended to precede this process by pouring a rough screed with reinforcement.
Expanded clay composition for dry screed is scattered on the prepared surface and it is pre-leveled.
Then install in the poured material beacons - guides from galvanized metal profiles. They are set according to the level, at a distance of 80-100 cm from each other. It is not necessary to fix them, because after leveling the screed, the beacons are removed from it.
After leveling the entire floor (this work can also be carried out in sections), they lay on a leveled and compacted layer gypsum fiber plates.

On special GVL - sheets for dry screed, platforms are provided for their interlocking connection. Glue is applied to them, and the panels are connected, twisted with self-tapping screws, forming a single sheet. On such a surface, then it will be possible to lay any decorative coating.

"Dry screed" will be an excellent base for any floor finish

The article was only a brief overview of some of the existing types of flooring in the house. After learning how to do this and choosing the most optimal, it is worth studying in detail the technology of its installation and strictly follow the sequence of steps and follow all the recommendations. If you do everything right, then, even without experience in arranging the floor, you can do this work yourself.

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