Good evening everyone! Due to popular demand, I am making a MK on artistic copper etching!!
In this example, we will use Laser Ironing Technology (hereinafter referred to as LUT)!
For this we need
-Laser printer
-Iron
-Ferric chloride
-Well, copper itself
To etch a drawing, we first need the drawing itself, find the drawing, adjust it to the size you need with any program convenient for you! You need to print this drawing on a laser printer and glossy paper! If you don’t have glossy paper for photos, you can use sheets from the Natalie magazine and etc!
If you are completely hopeless, there is no laser printer or paper! We go to the nearest company where they print on T-shirts, mugs, etc.
with a pre-prepared drawing on a flash drive! Printing such a sheet costs 1 UAH! I will write prices in local currency for Russia, multiply by 3! Of course, we still need ferric chloride, you can buy it in radio stores, 200 grams of this potion costs 20 UAH!
Process!
First, we need to ferment our ferric chloride since it must stand for another 20-30 minutes after fermentation!

We take dishes from any material, just not iron, most often it’s a 0.5 liter jar, fill it with cold liquid, we need to dilute it, 10 parts water, one part cold liquid, I usually do this by eye, dilute it to the color of strong black tea! Take care of your hands and clothes!
We've fermented everything, let it sit there while all the chemical processes take place and prepare the drowned man!)
I already had a printout prepared in advance, these are such beautiful lizards, they will appear on the future pendant!!

The metal also needs to be prepared, it is important that the metal is smooth without depressions or bumps, otherwise our drawing will not be translated or will be translated with gaps, which is not what we need at all!))
I prepared a piece of copper 1 mm thick, I advise you 1 mm no less since etching, and etching reduces the thickness of the metal!
Clean, degrease, nail polish remover works well for these purposes, I use solvent 646!

After degreasing, it is advisable not to touch the part to which we will transfer the drawing with your hands!
Take the iron, turn it on, let it heat up as much as possible, then place our lizards, pattern down, on the metal

and place the iron on top, do it carefully; if there are strong jerks or shifts, the paper may move and the drawing will be smeared, let it lie there for about 5 minutes!

Then we begin to stroke our drawing with the nose of the iron, very carefully, making sure that the paper does not move, if you notice that it has moved, tear everything off, degrease it, and do it all over again!! It may not work the first time, so I make 5 copies 6 of each drawing for these circumstances!
We ironed for another 5 minutes, as you can see in the photo, the pattern began to transfer to the other side, this is good, it means everything went fine, if you do not see any part of the pattern, additionally go over the iron in that place!

Now we throw this whole sandwich into the water (we don’t throw the iron))) let it lie in the water for about 5 minutes, then we start rolling up the paper, don’t tear it off or anything like that, but roll it up, if it doesn’t roll well, let it sour some more!! Then this white coating remains, it is usually in small places, we have such places on our fingers, eyes, back! Gently remove this plaque with a toothpick, it comes off easily!!

We looked at everything to see if it translated well, there are times when something is not translated somewhere, gaps, etc., you can use a needle and nail polish to correct these gaps! We drill a hole for the thread, which we will then tie to the metal so that we can lower it into a jar and take out the time from time to see what’s there!))
The next thing we need is to protect the part that we don't want to etch, the back part can be painted over with nail polish!! I also make an outline around the lizard, for my own purposes!! You don't have to do it!!
We dried everything, tied a thread and put it in a jar, the jar can be put in a warm place, so the process will go faster! Sometimes take it out, every 20 minutes, and watch how the etching process is going!! We need to etch somewhere half the metal! For this we need 4 hours -5 etching! In general, I can’t say the exact time since it is always different!!

it's been a couple of hours

So we took out our etched part, washed it, wiped it with solvent again to remove the toner! Then we cleaned it, sanded it, and basically finished the workpiece!!
Here's a plate with a lizard!!

Don't look at how full of holes it is, I really need it!!

Removing part of the surface layer of a metal product using a chemical reaction is called etching. This technology has been known to man for several millennia; along with embossing and blackening, it was used to finish metal parts of weapons and household utensils, jewelry and ritual objects. Nowadays, metal etching is used in arts and crafts, for electroplating, and for creating images and inscriptions on metal products.

The essence of the method

Before etching, a protective coating that is resistant to the etching substance (mordant) is applied to those areas of the metal surface that should not be etched.

Next, the part is exposed to an acidic environment or immersed in a container with an electrolytic liquid. The longer a part is processed, the larger the layer of metal that is corroded by the aggressive environment. Metal etching can be carried out in several stages, this is the so-called multilayer etching.

Etching images on metal is carried out both in industrial and at home conditions.

Metal etching methods

Based on the materials used to corrode the metal layer, there are such methods of etching metals as:

• Chemical (liquid). Acidic solutions are used. Does not require complex equipment or expensive materials. During operation, fumes that are harmful to health are generated.
• Electrochemical. An electrolyte solution is used and an electric current is passed through it. It is characterized by a higher speed of the process, more accurate execution of the details of the design, and economical consumption of working fluid. Does not form harmful fumes
• Ion plasma (dry). The surface layer is evaporated by a beam of ionized plasma. Used in the production of microelectronic components.

The ion plasma method requires high-precision and expensive equipment and is used only in industrial production conditions. The liquid method, electrochemical metal etching and even electrochemical engraving are available at home.

Using galvanic etching, you can independently make a printed circuit board that is almost as good as an industrial one.

Galvanic metal etching

The galvanic method of etching compares favorably with the liquid etching method because there is no need to use acids that produce harmful fumes. Depending on the workpiece material, different electrolytic solutions are used:

• Steel and iron - ammonia and iron sulfate
• Copper and its alloys (bronze, brass) - copper sulfate
• Zinc – zinc sulfate.

To carry out the process at home you will need:

• Galvanic bath made of non-conductive material.
• 5 volt DC power supply.
• Metal cathode (same metal as the workpiece.)
• Wire hangers for the workpiece and cathode. The workpiece should not touch the walls or bottom of the bath.
• Two conductive rods longer than the bathtub.

One rod is connected to the negative terminal of the power supply and the cathode is hung on it.

The other rod is connected to the positive terminal and a product that will serve as an anode is hung on it.

When voltage is applied, the process of electrolytic transfer of metal from the product to the cathode begins. It will occur from surface areas not covered with protective varnish.

Artistic metal etching

Artistic metal etching is carried out using both galvanic and liquid methods.

With its help, masters of folk crafts and simply home craftsmen obtain highly artistic images on edged weapons and firearms, all kinds of forged and cast utensils. For craftsmen making designer hunting and household knives, etching has become an almost mandatory finishing element. Especially popular are hunting scenes, Arabic, runic or abstract geometric patterns. Many craftsmen combine metal etching with bluing, giving the design a bluish, black or yellowish tint.

To transfer images, both the method of coating the part with varnish and glossy paper are used. Another method is also used - gluing the part with tape. Using a hot needle, scratch the lines of the design, after which, using tweezers, carefully remove the tape from the areas to be etched. Remains of the adhesive mass must be washed off with a solvent.

Before etching, the part should be thoroughly degreased.

Metal surface preparation

Before starting etching, the surface should be prepared. This will ensure:

• High process speed
• removing metal in an even layer.

During surface treatment, all mechanical and chemical contaminants are removed from it. Use a warm soapy solution; any detergent will do. After the surface has dried, it must be wiped with a rag soaked in solvent or degreaser. This will remove any remaining liquid and oil films.

It is good to combine chemical treatment with mechanical treatment:

• mirror polishing
• sanding with sandpaper. Used when polishing is unavailable. You should make sure that the skin always moves in one direction and that the marks from it are strictly parallel.

Mechanical processing will significantly improve the appearance of the product after etching.

Drawing

There are several methods used for this operation. All of them are united by a common principle: protecting part of the surface from the corrosive effect of the mordant, and what distinguishes them is the substance used to apply the design.

Nail polish

Popular and affordable method. Has some disadvantages:

• The high viscosity of the varnish makes it impossible to draw small details and fine lines.
• Requires a steady hand and drawing skill.
• It is very difficult to correct incorrectly applied parts.

Primer or bitumen varnish

Primer GF 021, XB 062 or bitumen varnish is used. First, the entire product to be etched is coated with the substance. Next, use a thin pen or marker to transfer the contours of the drawing. A needle should be made from thin wire or a rod of soft alloys, sharpening the end of the wire.

Those areas of the image that must be etched are scratched down to the metal. Care should be taken to ensure that the primer does not chip.

Glossy paper

In addition to glossy paper (you can buy it at art supply stores, or you can simply cut a sheet out of a magazine), you will need a laser printer, an imaging application, and an iron. The image of the drawing should be mirrored and printed in full size. The image is applied to the surface and ironed several times. After the workpiece has cooled, the paper is washed off with warm water, and the toner remains on the surface of the part. The back and side surfaces that are not subject to etching must be protected with varnish or plasticine.

The main advantage of the method is that the smallest details of the image can be accurately transferred.

The main disadvantage is that you can only work in this way with flat or cylindrical workpieces. The method is very popular in the manufacture of printed circuit boards.

Steel pickling

In addition to the artistic etching of metal, which allows one to obtain exquisite images on steel surfaces, steel etching is also used to remove scale and oxide films. In this case, you should especially carefully observe the requirements of the technological process in everything related to the concentration of etchant solutions and the time of exposure of the part in the mordant or in the electrolyte bath. Over-etching during such an operation is extremely undesirable.

When etching steel, both liquid and electrochemical methods are used. The mordant is prepared on the basis of strong acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric. Particular attention should be paid to thoroughly degreasing the surface. A missed oil or grease stain can render the workpiece unusable. To protect parts of the workpiece that are not subject to etching, I use varnishes based on rosin, turpentine, and tar.

These components are highly flammable, so you should be especially careful and careful when working with varnish. After etching is completed, the unetched areas of the workpiece are cleaned of the protective varnish with a solvent.

Mordants used for steel

Nitric acid is very popular among home picklers. It is used as the only base for mordant, or in a mixture with tartar or salt. A metal etching solution based on a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acid is very chemically reactive and should be handled with extreme care.

For processing hard and special grades of steel, mixtures of nitric and acetic acid are used. The processing is carried out in two stages. First, a special preliminary mordant is prepared - glyphogen, which is a mixture of water, nitric acid and ethyl alcohol. The part is kept in it for several minutes. Next, the workpiece is washed with a solution of wine alcohol in distilled water and thoroughly dried. After this, the main etching is carried out.

For pickling cast iron, solutions of medium concentrations of sulfuric acid are used.

Pickling of non-ferrous metals

Based on their atomic weight and the physical and chemical properties of the substance determined by it, for each metal and alloy they select its own mordant that best affects it.

Both pure copper and copper alloys are etched using sulfuric, hydrochloric, phosphoric, and nitric acid. To increase the reaction rate, chromium or nitrogen compounds are added to solutions. At the first stage of etching, scale and oxide film are removed from the workpiece, then proceed to the actual etching of the metal. Be careful when etching copper at home.

Aluminum and alloys based on it stand out among other metals in that they are etched using alkaline rather than acidic solutions. For molybdenum, alkaline solutions based on sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide are also used.

Titanium stands even more apart - at the first stage of preliminary etching, alkali is used, and at the main stage, acid is used. For titanium I use the strongest acids - hydrofluoric and concentrated sulfuric and nitric. Titanium blanks are etched to remove the surface layer of oxides immediately before electroplating.

To etch metals such as nickel or tungsten, an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and formic acid is used.

PCB etching

A blank for a printed circuit board is a sheet of textolite, coated on one or both sides with a layer of copper foil. The purpose of etching printed circuit boards is to create conductive traces from copper foil in exact accordance with the drawing. The tracks are covered with a protective varnish, the rest of the foil is removed by etching.

At home he uses several methods:

1. Ferric chloride. The reagent can be purchased at a chemical store or made independently. Iron filings should be dissolved in hydrochloric acid. Before use, the solution should be kept until the iron is completely dissolved and mixed thoroughly.
2. Nitric acid.
3. An aqueous solution of sulfuric acid mixed with tableted hydrogen peroxide.
4. Copper sulfate with the addition of hot water and sodium chloride. This option is the safest, but also the longest. Throughout the entire process, the pickling temperature should be maintained at least 40 o C, otherwise the pickling will take many hours.
5. Electrolytic method. You should take a dielectric container (cuvettes are good for developing photographs), fill it with a solution of table salt, place a board and a piece of copper foil there, which will serve as a cathode.

After etching with the liquid method is completed, the board should be thoroughly washed with a soda solution to extinguish any remaining acid.

Etching process for other materials

In addition to metals, other materials are also subjected to etching. The most common etching of glass is for decorative purposes. Etching is carried out in hydrofluoric acid vapor, the only one capable of dissolving glass. At the preparation stages, preliminary acid polishing of the surface of the product is carried out, then the outline of the future image is transferred to it. Protective coatings for glass are made from a mixture of wax, rosin and paraffins. After applying the protective coating, the workpiece is dipped into an etching tank.

The use of hydrofluoric acid creates a beautiful matte structure on the surface. To obtain a smooth, transparent surface, concentrated sulfuric acid is added to the etching mixture. To obtain a relief, deep pattern, the operation is repeated.

Pickling safety precautions

In metal etching, extremely chemically active substances are used - strong acids, alkalis and their solutions. If handled incorrectly, they can cause serious injury and damage to property.

Therefore, when working with them, you need to take special precautions and strictly follow the safety rules when carrying out work:

• Work is carried out only in the presence of good ventilation, preferably a fume hood.
• It is mandatory to use personal protective equipment: rubber gloves and an apron, thick work clothing, a respirator, and a protective face shield.
• Do not place jars containing acids and alkalis on high shelves and cabinets.
• When diluting acids, ACID is POURED into WATER, and never water into acid.
• When working with acid, have a soda solution on hand, and when working with alkali, have a weak vinegar solution to wash areas of the skin where drops of the solution accidentally fall.
• When working using the galvanic method, before starting work, carefully inspect all electrical equipment used for the absence of mechanical damage and integrity of the insulation.
• Have a working fire extinguisher on hand.

If the etching solution comes into contact with the skin, immediately wash the affected area with an appropriate neutralizing solution. If acid or alkali splashes onto clothing, it should be removed immediately.

If the etching solution gets on the mucous membranes, you should immediately seek medical help. Delay in such cases can cost health or even life.

Metal etching sometimes replaces casting and engraving; it makes the whole process much simpler. You can get a design that is both concave - relief, and convex - bas-relief. Metal etching at home can be chemical or galvanic. The first option is more toxic when used at home, so for starters we will use the second, it is also called electrochemical.

Equipment

You need to take a power supply or transformer that can output from 4 to 7 V. In addition, you will need a dielectric bath; it must contain the necessary part and a second metal object that is connected to the anode.

To etch a pattern on metal, you must use iron sulfate. If the design is needed on a copper or brass surface, then use it. You can also use it. The main thing is that the water is distilled.

Preparing the part for etching

In order for the etching to be uniform and in the right places, the part must be cleaned of dirt and also degreased. For more convenient work, copper wire is soldered onto the part with tin; it will be convenient to hold the object by it. To clean the surface, you need to dip the object to be converted into 10% sodium hydroxide, the temperature of which is 50°C, then into a 15% sulfuric acid solution and hold it there for two minutes, then rinse it in hot water. When the procedure is completed, the surfaces of the object will be completely cleaned, and of course, you cannot touch them with your hands.

Electrochemical etching of metal

We need to protect areas that should not be etched. To do this, you need to apply a special mastic to these surface areas. It is made from three parts of wax and two parts of rosin, they are melted in a tin can, stirring. After everything turns into a homogeneous mass, it is allowed to cool and divided into fragments. Each of them is placed in gauze so that later, when pressed, as much mastic as necessary can seep through it. After this, the workpiece that we will etch heats up. Now we take the created mixture, which was placed in gauze, and rub the surface with an even layer.

After cooling, the mastic becomes hard. The top is coated with light water-soluble paint. This can be watercolor or gouache white. After which the coating should dry. Then you can apply the design; it will stick well to the paint. It can be depicted using a pencil or translated using carbon paper. Then this outline needs to be scratched with a needle all the way to the metal.

Now the etching of the metal by electrolysis begins, we connect one rod to the anode - plus, the other to the cathode - minus. We connect the part on which the image will be applied to the first, and any steel plate to the second. After this, the process of etching the metal begins where the image was scratched.

If you need to create a multi-level drawing, everything is done in the same way as described above. Only the contours are checked each time, and when the smallest of them have been etched to the required depth, the part is removed and painted over with heated mastic using a brush. When it hardens, everything is repeated again until the next level of the drawing. In this process, an image is gradually created.

In this way, metal is etched at home, after which the surface is washed with turpentine and then polished, giving the product a finished look.

Chemical etching

Now let's look at how to create a pattern on a metal surface without the use of electrical devices. To do this, we need chemicals that are freely sold in hardware stores. So, let's begin. For etching we need:

• "White Spirit";
• paint that does not dissolve in White Spirit;
• acetone;
• resin, which is used to cover roofs;
• table salt;
• copper sulfate.

Cleaning the part

To begin with, the part where the image is planned is cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased. When the surface is ready, you need to seal the place where the design will be applied with adhesive tape or something similar. After this, the entire remaining surface, where chemical etching should not affect the metal, is painted over. It can be of any color, as long as it is resistant to White Spirit.

Once the paint is dry, you can remove the adhesive tape. Beneath it is clean metal, ready to create a design on it. Now you need to apply an image onto this “mini-canvas”. It is made using resin, which is dissolved in White Spirit until it becomes liquid, like paint. Use it to paint the desired image using a brush. What’s good about this kind of improvised paint is that if something doesn’t work out in the drawing, you can remove it by moistening a cloth or cotton swab in White Spirit. If there are very small details in the drawing that did not turn out well with a brush, they can be corrected with a needle, scraping off the excess after drying.

In this way, you can etch a knife, keys, in general, any metal object. Now that the drawing is completely ready, you can begin the etching itself.

Etching solution

We need a liter of water, in which we need to dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate, and then add salt. It needs to be sprinkled until it stops dissolving. The resulting mixture will have a blue color. However, after a metal object is immersed in it, the color will begin to change to green.

So, let's dive into the detail. The chemical process begins immediately. In all this production, no substances harmful to health are released, so this metal etching at home is safe.

Actions during a chemical reaction

During the reaction, a plaque forms, which will become more and more numerous. It slows down the whole process, so you need to periodically wash it off with water. You should not do this using various brushes, brushes and other tools, because you can damage the paint. But it seems to hold the entire design, and it would be a shame if, while etching a knife, for example, you inadvertently damage the design on it. This is a very delicate work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The depth of the pattern directly depends on the time during which the metal remains in the solution. There are no exact criteria, so each master must observe the progress of the chemical reaction himself. And only after doing this several times will it be possible to say with confidence how much time is needed to develop the desired pattern to the intended depth.

Advantages and disadvantages of electrochemical and chemical etching

The advantages of electrochemical etching of metal at home include the fact that the created pattern is clearer, this is clearly visible if you look at it with magnification. However, the downside is that this method requires an electrical device, which not everyone may have.

The advantages of chemical etching include the fact that everything you need can be bought at a hardware store. These ingredients are cheap, and, most importantly, you don’t need to look anywhere for a power supply or other devices capable of delivering from 4 to 7 V. However, the disadvantage is the imperfect edges of the pattern.

Electrolytic etching of brass la_pulja wrote in July 3, 2009

This entire article has been translated and compiled by user snipesp for the resource, and posted here with his permission.
The original article in English is located. Original author - Jake von Slatt

I am often asked about the thickness and type of brass used in my work, as well as where they can get it. I'm lucky because there's a specialty store near me where I buy most of my supplies. I used 0.025 inch (22ga) brass and its alloys (note: 0.025 inch is approximately 0.635 mm). As a last resort, you can buy "door kick plates" from your local store, but you'll have to clean off the varnish. If you can't find a store nearby, you can order online, but this is the most expensive way.

I recently saw Mark Frauenfelder's notebooks being released in limited quantities on BoingBoing and immediately thought of using the electrolytic brass etching process that I experimented with when trying to make similar notebooks for gifts this year.
As you can see, they turned out quite well and the two-century history of Moleskine gives the project a certain involvement in steampunk.

I adapted this technique to simply print pictures on brass plates. I say "imprint" but I'm actually using electro-chemical etching of the brass. Here's the process:
First, we use a laser printer to print the negative of our picture onto a sheet of “inkjet” glossy photo paper. Yes, I wrote “inkjet” paper, this is a special paper used, as they say, in the pharmaceutical business.
Next, we clean the entire piece of brass with light-colored Scotch Brigh and then wipe it with alcohol until it is completely clean. Several alcohol cleanings are necessary to remove all dirt.

Next, we use an iron with maximum heat to fuse the toner into the brass plate. You need to press the iron hard and rotate it a little. I used a roller to further press the paper onto the brass. In total, heating and rolling takes about two minutes.
Once you are satisfied that the toner has completely melted onto the copper, throw the plates into a tray of hot water. The water is needed to soften the inkjet photo paper so that it can be cleaned of any toner stuck in the brass.

This is actually a method that was developed for electronic circuit board enthusiasts. Please see the bibliography below for more information on this part of the process.
After the plate has been soaked for 5-10 minutes, remove it and carefully try to tear off the softened pieces of paper. After removing one layer, return the plate to the water.

Once you've removed most of the paper, you can use a stiff brush to remove any remaining residue. Our goal is to have nothing left except brass and toner.

Now we move on to the elegant 19th century technology of Galvanic Etching. You may be familiar with the technique of electroplating, where a metal object is coated with a layer of another metal after placing it in a bath of source metal (which will act as a resource for the plating layer), and passing a current through them.
We're going to do exactly the same thing, except we're going to connect our plate to the anode (+) since we're trying to remove metal from it. This technique was developed in the 19th century to create prints and is still used today. Again, see bibliography in resources.

My research has shown that copper sulfate can be used to etch copper and zinc. Since I wanted to engrave brass, and brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, copper sulfate had to be the right solution for this project.
I rummaged around in the garage and found this “Root Kill” container, which is essentially copper sulfate (note: as far as I know, copper sulfate is sold under the guise of copper sulfate). I mixed about a pound (453 grams) of Root Kill with water, there is a photo below. It's all dissolved so I probably could have mixed it in slightly different proportions. From information from websites, I found out that the more saturated the solution, the faster the engraving process.
I made brass record holders from copper plated rod in hopes that the tin would not interact with the rod.

We attach the working fragment to the anode - the plus on the battery. I used 12v. 17 amp. lead acid gel cell (12 volt 17 amp hour lead acid gel cell), but you can also use a car battery, charger or a modified PC power supply unit. The circuit could use a lamp to limit the current flowing through the electrolyte, but I found that for the electrolyte I was using and the size of my plate, this was not necessary. Also, since I want a deep pattern in brass, I don't need to be delicate with the material.

After a minute or so nothing happened, although a brownish residue had formed as it worked. I removed the light bulb from the circuit and rearranged the plates closer to each other. At this distance the 16 wire I was using started to get hot and I could see the density of the hot water decrease around the plates in the tub. I believe the current was approximately 10-20 amps. There were surprisingly few bubbles.

After the changes, the process began to go faster. I took the plate out of the bath every 15 minutes or so and cleaned off the brownish residue. After about 45 minutes in the bath, I noticed that the toner had come off in some places after cleaning, so I took the pad and rinsed it well. I used paint remover to remove the toner and in another case I used a steel brush under running water. It worked just as well with a brush.

The plates are ready, I estimate the thickness of the etched brass to be approximately 0.5mm. The material is removed consistently and the edges where the toner was are clear and neat.

I coated the record with black primer, let it dry, and used sandpaper and light-colored tape to remove the primer from the top surfaces. Finally, I polished the plates with Noxon Metal Polish.

Here is a shot of the finished plate and the laser printed negative, as you can see the image is reproduced almost perfectly in the brass.
Below is another version of the plates I made earlier. In the photo you can see that the sword is missing a hilt at the bottom right. This part of the image was painted over using Sharpie and the ink apparently did not remain on the brass. However, on the reverse side you can clearly see Charles Buddage's different engines. I tried transferring toner from a picture printed on thin paper, but gave up because the layer of toner left on the brass was too thin.
I may try this technique again as it is quite easy and quick and definitely effective.

Warning: Some steps in this process are dangerous and this article attempts to cover them in detail. However, Greenart has extensive information about this process. I encourage anyone considering doing this to follow the link and read and understand the usage and safety information. In particular, you should read the article on the process called Bordeaux Etch as it covers the necessary steps to properly dispose of waste material.

Additions to the article in English.

METAL ETCHING- a group of technological methods for controlled removal of the surface layer of material from a metal workpiece under the influence of specially selected chemical reagents.

A number of ways METAL ETCHING provides for the activation of etching reagents through other physical phenomena, for example, the application of an external electric field during electrochemical etching, ionization of atoms and molecules of reagents during ion-plasma etching, etc.

In the literature, the term “etching” is usually accompanied by a definition explaining the specific etching technology- chemical, acidic, alkaline, electrochemical, etc. When the term “etching” is used without further definition, it usually means chemical etching of metal in an aqueous electrolyte.

For artistic metal etching , when part of the surface being etched needs to be preserved, it is protected (chemically or mechanically) by applying a special protective layer - a mask.

Main types metal etching the following:

1. chemical etching of metal- “liquid” etching
2. electrochemical METAL ETCHING - galvanic etching
3. ion plasma - “dry” etching

In his work on METAL ETCHING We use the most commonly used technologies: chemical etching of metal And galvanic etching.

METAL ETCHING - features

Etching, as one of the stages electroplating used for preliminary preparation of metal products for the application of protective coatings. With its help, a previously degreased surface is cleaned of oxide films for better adhesion of the galvanic layer to the base.

For decorative purposes, we carry out various drawings and inscriptions on products (engraving) artistic metal etching .

Copper etching We widely use it for processing copper cliches, as well as in the manufacture of interior items.

We fulfill copper etching And brass etching chemical or galvanic method. We select the type of etching solution, its concentration and processing time individually, and the parameters of the solution depend on the thickness of the oxide film to be removed.

Chemical ETCHING OF METAL

Chemical etching of metal is a method of reproducing various designs, ornaments, textures, inscriptions, etc. using chemicals. on the surface of metal objects.

Chemical brass etching , chemical copper etching and their alloys is based on the reaction of special mordant compounds with the surface of the base, as a result of which oxide films dissolve. For processing, we use solutions of concentrated acids, in which the products are placed for a certain time. In this way we perform preliminary or glossy etching. Obtaining a matte or shiny surface when chemical etching of metal we regulate the degree of acid concentration and exposure time.

Galvanic etching

Galvanic method of etching metals also called electrochemical metal etching.

Technology galvanic etching has many advantages over chemical etching of metal and one of the features of this technology is the use of a galvanic battery.

The operation itself galvanic etching this method occurs much faster, and the contours of the etched pattern are sharper and more distinct.

Galvanic etching(electrochemical method) more economical etching technology both in time and in the volume of acid used.

In addition, the mordant does not contain caustic acids, as a result of which galvanic etching no gases harmful to health are formed.

At galvanic way etching copper and brass products (anode) are placed in galvanic bath with etching solution. We use solutions of orthophosphoric, hydrochloric and sulfuric acids as electrolytes. Reagents (lead salts) are added to the electrolyte to prevent over-etching of the surface. The oxide film is separated from the metal as a result of the release of oxygen.

If you carefully examine the drawing through a magnifying glass, chemically etched method, it will turn out that the edges of individual recessed lines are uneven and that the deeper the line, the wider it is etched. At galvanic etching the edges of individual lines are completely smooth, and the walls of the recesses are vertical.

Pre-treatment of an object is also used when galvanic etching.

The treated object, which serves as an anode, is suspended in galvanic bath, containing a mordant, on a wire that is soldered with tin solder to an uncovered area, the soldering area is covered with varnish. The other end of the wire is connected to a plate of the same metal, which serves as a cathode. As a mordant for steel and iron, we use iron sulfate or ammonia solution; For copper etching, brass etching and bronze - a solution of copper sulfate; for zinc - zinc sulfate or a solution of zinc chloride oxide.

If you need to do and etch different parts of the drawing to different depths, then after a certain period of time we remove the object from galvanic bath, we rinse those places that do not need to be etched deeper, and apply a protective coating to them, and then hang the item again in galvanic bath and continue etching.

METAL ETCHING - types of products and our capabilities

METAL ETCHING- complex technology and trust to process products according to galvanic or chemical technology is needed only by professionals.

Our company has proven experience in performing galvanic etching And chemical etching metal with the highest quality.

We have all the necessary equipment to perform METAL ETCHING and in case of a non-standard order, we are ready to manufacture any additional equipment for a specific individual order.

We use technology metal etching For copper etching And brass etching .

By using metal etching technology we carry out:

• applying texture or relief design during artistic processing of materials -
• production of award and corporate metal products: badges, badges, medals, plaques
• production of metal signs: facade signs and office signs
• production of clichés for embossing, metal seals and stamps of various shapes for marking, as well as wax seals with deep relief
• production of special prefabricated handles and equipment for metal seals
• production of heraldry, coats of arms and family symbols
• production of logos, brand marks, corporate style items
• production of interior items: panels, paintings, frames, wall panels
• production of metal objects for cladding walls, entrance lobbies, fireplaces, portals, grilles
• removing the surface layer of dirt, oxides, grease film, etc., for example, scale from metal workpieces
• chemical polishing of the surface and removal of the layer damaged during previous mechanical processing
• etc.

We produce metal signs and panels mainly using brass. This metal, under the influence of the external environment, oxidizes over time, so we cover the plates with various types of decorative coatings: gold, silver, nickel, bronze, which ensures their preservation for a long time. If necessary, the elements of the plate and panel can be painted over with colored enamels.

METAL ETCHING We make it in two ways: you can cover all the lines and surfaces of the drawing with a substance that is affected by the mordant; You can, on the contrary, protect all spaces from the action of acids, leaving the lines and surfaces of the drawing free. If you then cover the entire surface with acid, then in the first case the pattern will turn out to be slightly embossed, in the second case the pattern will appear in-depth.

Copper etching And brass etching in our production conditions virtually eliminates defects due to the use of special equipment and an established system for monitoring the preparation and metal etching.

Our company offers services galvanic etching both for individual and mass production.

After execution metal etching If necessary, we carry out grinding, patination and application of a protective layer.

METAL ETCHING – types of products

By using metal etching You can get a wide variety of copper and brass products, ranging from textured panels to artwork and jewelry.

Brass etching , textured panel

Brass etching , texture with volume

Copper etching, textured panel

Copper etching, textured surface with patterns

Brass etching , artistic drawing

Brass etching , art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

METAL ETCHING, art products

Brass etching , decorative decoration

METAL ETCHING - our work

METAL ETCHING- decorative motorcycle linings with an original design, part of motorcycle tuning, motorcycle linings are made of brass with relief engraving and three-dimensional image application, for contrast levels the background is blackened and matte polished

Brass etching- relief plates for decorating the facade of a country house

Brass etching- a copy of the coat of arms of the USSR for a gift case made of wood, on a metal coat of arms with a diameter of 6 cm, all elements are worked out with a high degree of detail, painted with enamels and artificial aging as a finish

Metal etching- family coat of arms of the noble family of the Russian Empire “Safonovs”, the relief coat of arms is made of brass, the background is oxidized, the top plan is polished, the finished coat of arms is placed in a frame according to the style

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Brahmananda Avadhuta”, diameter 36 cm; the portrait of the guru, the lotus and the decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, 2 types of grinding and polishing create shine and reflection of individual groups of elements of the composition

Brass etching- gift panel made of metal “Shiva”, diameter 33 cm; portrait and decorative ornament are worked out with the smallest detail, combined polishing to a mirror shine

Brass etching- reproduction of the icon 15x18 cm, made using technology etching, line thickness 0.5 mm

Metal etching- aluminum skull emblem on the car grille, three-dimensional metal carving, etching of the pattern, assembling a composition from individual elements, oxidation, varnish

Metal etching- numbers for apartments made of nickel silver, made in high-tech style, relief chemical engraving, directional grinding to add color and texture, number size 7.5x4 cm

Brass etching- a beer wobbler made of brass for a cafe-buffet is made using chemical engraving technology, the size of the wobbler is 30x13 cm, the holder is contoured and soldered, matte grinding and contrasting blackening of the background are used

Nickel silver metal plates for decorating table clocks, relief metal etching with color filling, the size of metal plates is 13x9 and 13x5 cm, respectively, grinding the metal to a matte surface

Copies of orders for the restoration of the book “15 Years of the Komsomol” were made metal etching, made the Order of the Red Banner and the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, diameter 11 cm, convex relief, aging metal in the color of the original

Metal etching a copy of the personal seal of Metropolitan Moses was made (Byzantine period, 11th century), the work was made as a gift in a frame on blue velvet, 2-sided image, the diameter of each seal is 8 cm, color “antique silver”

Brass etching- metal belt buckle, made in a multi-level design, embossed background and relief image of letters and coat of arms, size 70x55 mm

A 2-sided nickel silver medal with a portrait on the front side and the Brandenburg Gate on the back side is made metal etching, relief image on metal 6 mm thick, medal diameter 6 cm, contrast blackening and matte polishing were used for finishing

A metal product for a special event is made brass etching in the form of a souvenir medal, diameter 15 cm, thickness 5 mm., the peculiarity of the medal is the relief application of inscriptions and detailed elaboration of the elements of the Spasskaya Tower, the surface is processed to a mirror polished state of the background, inscriptions and image

Family coat of arms made using technology metal etching, division of elements into zones, filling with colored translucent enamel, decorative frame, oxidation

Copper etching- damper for the stove, made in hunting style. Contour cutting of metal and chemical engraving of the design were used for manufacturing; decorative handles and legs were used for finishing, a frame along the contour with copper rivets

Brass etching- engraving “Temple of the Blessed Virgin Mary”, patination and blackening, framing

Metal etching- decorative panel “Pokrovsky Cathedral”, silvering, blackening, size 16x22 cm

2-sided Phaistos disk with a diameter of 10 cm with unique hieroglyphs, made using technology metal etching, perfect elaboration of the smallest details and contours with a line thickness of up to 0.2 mm, surface polishing and filling lines with color

2-sided Storozhevsky ring with a diameter of 10 cm with unique drawings containing information about the ancient calendar system, made using technology metal etching, detailed elaboration of the signs on the front surface of the ring and an unusual texture on the reverse side

2-sided Serponov ring with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting a calendar and a map of an ancient civilization, made using technology brass etching

A 2-sided star disk from Mittelberg with a diameter of 10 cm, a recreated copy of an artifact depicting the oldest world horoscope to date, made using technology brass etching, detailed elaboration of elements on the front side and texture on the back side

Brass etching- decorative napkin holder “Calvados”, size 18x3.5 cm, background etching and oxidation

Metal etching- hammered copper plate of the Church of St. Vyacheslav the Czech, diameter 35 cm, etching , oxidation, silvering

Metal etching- gift panel “Fan” made of nickel silver, relief engraving, polishing and blackening

Brass etching- nameplates for a wooden case with a weapon, made with a protruding relief, look great due to the design with a frame and the contour cut along the frame

Brass etching sign “Sun”, made according to the design of a child’s hand drawing with repetition of lines from the movement of the hand, the size of the brass plate is 15x10 cm, chemical engraving, blackening and polishing were used to contrast the background and image

Artistic metal etching , stainless steel etching- stainless steel numbers 3 mm, without filling and with graphite filling

METAL ETCHING, stainless steel etching- stainless steel indicators, enamel filling, grinding, edge processing

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 3 mm brass plate, “Letters of repentance”

Brass etching- decorative hanger element, antique finish

Artistic metal etching , brass etching - 5 mm brass plate, “Bag of Happiness”

Artistic metal etching , brass etching

Artistic metal etching , brass etching – panels for interior decoration

Artistic metal etching , brass etching – panels for interior decoration

Artistic METAL ETCHING - cost

Cost of manufacturing a product using technology galvanic etching or chemical etching of metal depends on the following parameters:

• product material
• product size and geometry
• availability of a sketch or drawing of the product
• complexity of the drawing and depth of the drawing
• necessary finishing
• method of fastening the product
• special wishes of the Customer for the product

average cost metal etching for a product of average complexity is 50-60 thousand rubles per 1 sq. m products.

Order METAL ETCHING You can use email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. To view it, you need JavaScript enabled or phone numbers from the contacts section.

Order art copper etching And brass etching from us, and you will receive the best quality and original execution.