DIY wooden airplanes drawings. Craft airplane - how to make a model airplane from wood, paper and plastic with your own hands

All photos from the article

Aircraft models made from plywood are made by craftsmen all over the world. At the same time, the complexity of the models can be very different, ranging from the simplest children's toys to controllable products capable of repeating aerobatics.

Naturally, only an experienced craftsman can master such a labor-intensive task, so we will begin to master the technologies used in aircraft modeling from the simplest schemes.

Material selection

Before looking online for drawings of plywood model airplanes, we need to take care of purchasing the material itself.

The ideal option would be aviation plywood BS - 1:

sheets of material are made from three or more layers of peeled birch veneer;
phenolic adhesives or bakelite films are used for gluing veneer;
The thickness of the plywood is very important: used when building an aircraft model, most often a 1 mm sheet, but for some parts thicker blanks may be needed;

Note!
This parameter is important if you plan to make a structure that needs to fly.
A children's toy or simply a decorative item can be cut from 5 mm.

The main advantages of this material include strength, low weight and good flexibility. The disadvantage is the high price compared to other varieties.

When purchasing sheets of material, you need to pay attention to their appearance:

Modern toy stores are simply bursting with a large assortment of all kinds of cars, bears, construction sets and much more. But remember the old days, when there was no such abundance. Then, in clubs and craft classes, we were taught to make toys ourselves, and the main material for creativity was plywood for modeling. It is precisely these crafts that we will tell you about today.

Preparation of material and tools

Like any business, and making a toy for a child is a very important step, you must first prepare both the material and the tools that will be needed in constructing the model.

If you are missing something from the list above, buy these missing items urgently.

Hand jigsaw for wood, an electric tool in our case is not our help; we do everything manually.
Model plywood, usually the thickness of the material is three and seven millimeters, otherwise it is also called three-layer and seven-layer, respectively.
Pencil, ruler.
Sandpaper and square file for processing aircraft spare parts.
PVA glue or any other, which is designed for gluing wood.
Great patience and desire to bring joy to the child.

We need to start our design, of course, by marking out all the parts of the future airplane, namely: the fuselage, wings and stabilizer. You can first draw a drawing on paper, and then transfer it to the plywood itself, or you can immediately draw the details on the plywood, whichever is more convenient for you.

Since our model of an airplane made of plywood was invented on the fly, there are no exact dimensions and, accordingly, a template or drawing. But as an example, we will take a certain size of the wingspan, and we will build on it when assembling our aircraft.

Let's make the wingspan thirty centimeters long, this is perhaps the most optimal option; for those who find such an airplane small, they can increase the size of the wings and thereby make the airplane a little larger.

Cutting out blanks with a jigsaw

As you can see in the photo, all the components can be easily drawn by hand, there is nothing complicated here. Let's start with the fuselage, the length of which can be made ten millimeters larger than the wings. Just draw the body itself by hand as shown in the picture.

Immediately on the fuselage body, make tenon joints for attaching the wings. Due to such connections, prefabricated plywood models are quite strong and can be easily connected with glue, so be sure to use them.

Let's move on to the wings, as we have already decided, the wings will be thirty centimeters long, respectively eight to ten centimeters wide. Remember the main thing, the lower wing should be no more than ten millimeters shorter than the upper one.

All that remains is to draw the struts to support the wings, the rear flap, and the stabilizer. When everything is ready, you can start cutting out the parts with a jigsaw. Carefully cut out all the parts for the plane based on the outlines you drew. Don’t be discouraged if there are some unevenness somewhere, in any case, you try, and you will succeed.

Advice!
The cut parts must be sanded with sandpaper immediately before assembling the model.
Once you assemble the plane, it will be inconvenient to polish it, as the model can be damaged.

Assembling our plane

As a rule, modeling from plywood is an interesting and meticulous task, and if you have already prepared tenon joints on the fuselage, now you need to make grooves on the wings for fastening to the body and for the struts supporting the wings.

Feel free to use a file while working and adjust the connections as accurately as possible. Start assembly by installing the stabilizer, which you will glue to the tail of the toy.

At the next stage, our instructions recommend installing the wings in their place. To do this, apply glue to the joint and install the upper wing. Having turned the model over, we install racks to support the wings, and also pre-apply glue to the attachment points.

There is very little left and our homemade plane will be ready, we install the lower wing and our assembled structure. Also carefully coat all the butt joints on the assembled model with glue and place the plane on the shelf, allowing the glue to dry completely.

It’s not at all difficult to make such an airplane, of course it’s not an ideal option, and if you want, you can look for other drawings of prefabricated plywood models, because the flight of fancy and creative ideas don’t end there. Let's take a look at what other crafts can be made from wood.

We continue to make homemade products

Well, let's not stop halfway, but let's try to please the child some more, with some kind of plywood craft. If you focus on a boy, then it is possible that you want to know how to make a tank out of plywood? Quite a logical question, let's try to answer it.

As an example, we invite you to consider our small model of a plywood tank, which is easy to manufacture and, when assembled, looks no worse than tanks made from plastic construction sets.

Let's look at all the design stages in order, and start with the materials that are needed for modeling.

Plywood is, of course, the basis of our model; in this case, the thickness of the plywood should be two to three millimeters. With such plywood it will be very convenient to cut out parts and then assemble them.
Copy paper, with its help we will transfer the drawing to the workpiece.
A set of needle files will help in processing tenon joints when assembling the model.
A hand jigsaw and files for it, as for the files, prepare several of them, usually when cutting a model from plywood with your own hands, the files tend to break.
Glue, preferably using PVA, it interacts well with wood and becomes discolored after drying.
Sandpaper and clear varnish.

Advice!
It is recommended that before starting to outline the details of the tank, the prepared material, plywood, should be cleaned with emery cloth and the surface made smooth.
This approach will ensure more accurate copying of the drawing onto the plywood surface.

Copy the drawing and cut out the elements of the tank

The next step in constructing a tank model will be transferring all the component parts of the model from paper to plywood. In the modeling process, namely answering the question of how to make a tank from plywood, model drawings play a very important role.

Tank model drawing. Part 1

Now that you have a ready-made template of parts in your hands, you need to transfer it to plywood using carbon paper. Outlining the details is best done with a simple pencil or using an empty ballpoint pen.

Do not forget about the numbering of parts; when copying, also transfer them to the material. In the future, when assembling, it will be easier for you to navigate the details. The rules of assembly are the joining of parts in sequence according to numbers: number one is connected to number one, number two is connected to number two, respectively.

When everything is ready and the drawing has been transferred to plywood, you can start cutting out the parts. We won’t teach you how to use a jigsaw, but we will give you a recommendation. After you cut out all the parts, be sure to sand them down, so you will smooth out all the corners left by the jigsaw and ultimately get a neat model.

Now, in order of numerical designation, we begin to assemble our model of the tank; after joining, we coat all connections with glue and let them dry a little. After assembling all the components, you should have a tank model that is almost ready.

As in any other matter, it remains to put an end to it, and our point is to treat the assembled model with colorless varnish. Believe me, the price of such a homemade toy is not comparable to the joy of your baby who will play with it, you can be sure that you did not waste your time making such a model.

What else can be made from plywood

In fact, modeling has enormous potential for creativity; plywood as a material is ideal for these purposes. Various plywood car models are very popular; as a rule, they are easy to manufacture and are in demand among children.

Here, for example, is a simple model of a truck; its manufacture will require very little material, and it will not take much time to assemble. If you take into account that you already have all the necessary tools, you can make such a craft without much effort.

In order to make such a truck, it is enough to transfer the template and all the spare parts of the car onto the material. Then collect all the parts and connect them together. These drawings of plywood car models have a common base and on this base you can assemble various versions of trucks.

If you get creative, you can make a closed van instead of a body, or cut out a fire escape, fantasize and bring your ideas to life together with your child.

Making a boomerang yourself

Another very interesting toy is the boomerang. In fact, this toy was considered a throwing weapon in the old days, but today both adults and children really enjoy the flight of this unique invention and return it to the place from which it was launched.

Let's figure out how to make a boomerang from plywood, while respecting all its aerodynamic properties. As a rule, first of all we need a material, in our case it will be plywood ten millimeters thick, and a template.

For the template, you will need a sheet of paper measuring fifty by sixty centimeters, and apply a grid with a mesh size of fifty millimeters on this sheet of paper. Then we draw the boomerang itself on the template, try to do this as shown in the figure below.

After the boomerang template is ready, we cut it along the contour and transfer it to our plywood blank and follow a simple procedure:

We trace the contours of the template with a pencil on the workpiece.
Using a hand jigsaw, cut out the boomerang according to the contours.
The resulting boomerang must be further processed and given aerodynamic properties.
We clamp the boomerang blank with a clamp and use a small plane from the center to the edges to remove the excess wooden covering.
As a result of processing, we should get a uniform transition from the edge to the center. The central part should be ten millimeters thick, the edges of the boomerang six millimeters. Try to make the transition smooth and not jagged.
The next step is to be thorough. The boomerang must be perfectly smooth, this directly affects the aerodynamics.
Now the toy needs to be opened with varnish and, after drying, painted in a bright color. Typically, bright colors will make the toy easy to spot in flight or when searching after it lands.

Information!
The boomerang by its nature belongs to the category of dangerous toys, so be careful when launching it so as not to harm yourself and the people around you.
It is advisable to launch in the field, in places where there are not crowded people and no residential buildings.

Finally

Very often, lovers of fakes are interested in: how to make a balalaika from plywood and is it possible to do this in practice at home? We hasten to please you, although such a product is considered a complex musical instrument, it can still be made at home. But we will talk about this complex process another time.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Homemade aircraft, drawings of machines and their brief descriptions built by amateur designers

PHOENIX M-5

A model that is equipped with two Vikhr-25 engines modified for air cooling. The design of the handle and the control circuit of the machine have no analogues in the world. Famous test pilots did not hide their delight, and even recommended its use on military fighters.
The take-off weight of the vehicle is two hundred and fifty-five kilograms, and the wing surface area is five point six square meters.

VOLKSPLAN

The model was designed by an American amateur designer, with a pulling screw, which consists of the following components:

Shaft (1), made of duralumin pipe
fuselage spar (2), the material from which is made – pine
casing (3), made of plywood three millimeters thick
wing spars (4)
arc (5)
tank (6), which holds thirty liters of fuel
frame (7), made of plywood thirty millimeters thick
automobile engine (8), the power of which is sixty horsepower
hood (9), made of fiberglass
spring (10)
technological holes for installing wings (11)
fender braces (12)
its racks (13)
his braces (14)
bolt for installing the strut (15)

Specifications:

Take-off weight is three hundred and forty kilograms
wing area is nine point twenty nine square meters
speed - one hundred seventy kilometers per hour

This model passed certification tests and was found fit for use; moreover, it was possible to perform aerobatic maneuvers and even a “corkscrew” on it.

AGRO-02

Created by Tver designers. The main material used in its manufacture is plywood, canvas, pine and the domestic RMZ-640 engine. The take-off weight of which was two hundred thirty-five kilograms and the wing area was six point three square meters.

KhAI-40

SINGLE SEAT AIRCRAFT BIPLANES

SINGLE BEAM PLANES

Such a task, difficult at first glance, as building a wooden airplane on your own, can be done by any aviation enthusiast, even a schoolchild who regularly attends an aircraft modeling club. Do not think that this model of aircraft is intended to carry passengers on board. For all his efforts, the inventor will be rewarded with excellent flying characteristics of the aircraft and its high strength. The creators who launch their wooden gliders gain experience in controlling and adjusting free-flying aircraft models, and also receive unforgettable, incomparable impressions from the real flight of a wooden airplane constructed with their own hands.

Let's look at what you might need for this. Most likely, the materials and tools from the following list will be sufficient:

pine slats;
jigsaw;
PVA glue;
plane;
aluminum wire;
Styrofoam;
lavsan film;
household iron with thermostat.

Let's assume that you have prepared everything you need. This means that you are ready to go and can proceed directly to the design process.

This is the initial stage of work on modeling a wooden airplane. Take your slats (5x5 mm cross-section) and glue them together using PVA glue. When the glue is completely dry, you can reinforce the frame structure with internal corners, which can be made from foam plastic. This material is excellent for aircraft modeling, as it has sufficient strength with minimal weight. Therefore, you can also cut the upper end of the keel from a small piece of foam with a knife. You can use balsa. The front and rear edges of the frame must be rounded. Mylar film will be useful for the keel, which will look much more attractive if covered with such colored film. The steering wheel needs to be glued to the trailing edge. As a rule, it is cut out of cardboard with a thickness of about 0.5 mm.

Making a stabilizer

We also assemble this part from pine slats of the same cross-section as in the case of the frame of our model. Having rounded the edges, also reinforce it with foam elements. Bend the end parts of the future stabilizer from the prepared wire. You can also use an aluminum knitting needle, a piece of wire, or other suitable material. The ending must be tightly wound to the frame with threads treated with PVA glue or epoxy resin. When you have a finished stabilizer, just like the keel, cover it with a thin layer of lavsan film.

Collecting wings

Make a wing from pine wood. The front and rear edges of the wing must correspond to a section of 3.5x9 mm, and the spar - 3.5x7 mm. A pine blank or linden is suitable for constructing a rib. After completing the frame assembly, plan the edges along the wing profile, rounding them.

Fuselage structure

You can also make it from pine slats, only with a larger cross-section - 10x15 mm. This rail should smoothly and evenly thin towards the tail along its entire length. Plane a spout from pine or linden and insert a balancing weight into the hole. You can take a piece of lead as a load, which will be easy to rivet.

Connecting elements

After you have glued and processed the fuselage, use PVA glue to glue the fin to it, and then the stabilizer. Be sure to maintain mutual perpendicularity for the tail elements, and also ensure that the stabilizer is evenly positioned relative to the fuselage beam. Cover the varnished fuselage with brightly colored nitro paint.

Pre-adjustment

Your wooden glider model is ready for adjustment. At the front and rear edges of the fuselage, you need to tie a pylon with a rubber band, and then begin to move the wing along the beam to determine the desired position. This can be determined by the relation of the center of gravity to the position of the wing.

Trial run

To carry out a test run, it is better to use the gym premises. If you don't have this option, choose a calm day. With a gentle throw along the horizon, launch the model airplane. Try to achieve the lowest descent speed, for which use adjusting wedges made of wood. They should be placed between the fuselage and the pylon. Gain experience in "piloting" techniques so you can confidently demonstrate your design skills on your own wooden airplane. Successful launches will bring a sea of positive emotions not only to you, but also to the curious public.

Aircraft modeling helps a person develop in many directions. By studying in a circle or on your own, you acquire knowledge and skills when working with accessible, environmentally friendly, familiar materials, such as wood, PVA glue, cardboard, plywood, polystyrene foam, and so on. Also, at the same time, you learn to analyze your actions and make competent decisions in the most unusual situations. A person who is interested in aircraft modeling develops needs for self-realization and self-knowledge. Interest in the design and modeling process is developing. In addition to practical skills, a culture of communication with colleagues in the circle is formed, as well as important moral and volitional qualities such as determination, will, self-discipline, a sense of mutual assistance and collectivism. Of particular importance in our time is the formation of healthy lifestyle skills and patriotism. During the classes you can learn a lot about significant personalities in the history of aircraft manufacturing and aviation in general.

I somehow decided to assemble my first home-made airplane, I was choosing between biplanes, I also wanted to make something like a katana, but I thought that all these airplanes could be bought anyway, but airplanes from the Second World War are sold only in aerobatics and then for an expensive price. from balsa. The choice fell on the Yak-3. Why? - I just liked it =)

When creating the aircraft, I partially relied on this article http://rc-aviation.ru/yak-3, there is also a link to the drawings.

Well, as always, the plane begins with printing out the drawing. The drawing that is in the archive, its left half is slightly larger than the right. The drawing itself was scaled in paint and printed on A4 using Excel. Of course, after the latest articles about the Yak-3, I realized that I didn’t choose the best drawings)

Then I decided to make a drawing 15cm larger; I no longer glued it completely together (due to the difference in the sizes of the left and right halves), but cut out the fuselage and wings separately and glued them together.

I tried the wing on a laminate backing, which they gave me for free at the building materials store. The spars are made from pine slats 2x0.5x400cm purchased at the same building materials market, it was too wide for the spar and I cut it in half with an ordinary stationery knife.

Next, I cut out the ribs and glued them to the spars using titanium; the spars themselves are glued with some kind of “the best glue for wood” - that’s what the saleswoman in the store told me, and in fact they glue it tightly.

While the wings were being glued together, I assembled the fuselage. The assembly was not particularly difficult.

Further, due to the tense situation in my area with stationery stores, which are NOT AVAILABLE, and in the neighboring area I found only ONE store in the basement of some shopping center, when I had already finished assembling the plane. Actually, the wooden rulers were bought on the other side of Moscow, and the rubber bands, which are convenient for fixing some parts on the plane during gluing, were bought in Auchan =)

The next stage was the creation of a V-shaped wing, for this there is part K22 in the drawing, it was made from two rulers glued end-to-end.

Then I glued the wing: a synthetic backing for the laminate, and a ceiling on top. Previously, I marked the positions of the ribs on the substrate with a pen, and accidentally glued this side outward. I secured everything with tape and left it to stick together for a day.

While the wing was drying, I glued the tail unit together from two layers of the ceiling. The fixed part of the rudder is fixed with a ruler, the elevator is also strengthened with a ruler, and the movable part with a pine strip. I made the loops from pieces of a ruler and a thread wound in a figure of eight between two pieces and secured with a moment; the thread itself is very strong, so I didn’t wind it too much. The hinges were secured with titanium.

Then, when the wing was dry, I glued plugs on the front and back - K11 on the back and K12 on the front, then I glued pieces of foam plastic on the front and ground them down to the desired shape. I glued a pin in front to attach the wing to the fuselage. Also in the photo you can see an air intake made of polystyrene foam, with which the wing is secured with a screw.

I sewed up the top of the fuselage in front - penoplex, and the rest - ceiling tiles, but how well it worked out for me, I cut off the top and decided to make it from penoplex. Motor frame made of three layers of ceilings + ruler.

The rods are made from paper clips, with .

The wing fastening inside the fuselage looks like this - 2 layers of ceiling, on top there is a ruler with a hole for a screw, and on the ruler there is another ruler with a nut glued in for a moment.

The servos are mounted from one ruler.

Each aileron is supported by three hinges made from a plastic bottle + hole punch; holes are cut in the wing to secure the hinges from inside the wing. The cabin is made of polystyrene foam - I glued a blank to the fuselage, cut it, sanded it and it's done. At the same time I tried on the tail unit. Even at that time, the rods for the tail were made from strings for the cornice, the guides were made from the rod of a gel pen glued into the frames, for some reason I didn’t take a photo.

In all the articles here, I haven’t seen anyone make a Yak-3 with a landing gear, and it was fundamental that the first takeoff would be from its own wheels =) The landing gear is made of knitting needles + hot glue + pine slats, also cut out in the wing a piece of substrate from the spar.

The racks turned out to be too long, then they had to be shortened. At the back there is simply a crutch made of string for the cornice fixed in a piece of pine batten. The exhaust pipes are made from a spray tube, the fairing is made from a piece of foam. White spots on the wing are an unsuccessful attempt to repair chips and cracks using napkins and pva.

From the ceiling I cut out fairings between the wing and fuselage. On the drawing -T46

Then there was a need to repair seams and chips in the penoplex, I looked for answers on the Internet, and eventually created a topic http://rc-aviation.ru/forum/topic?id=6496. I decided to seal it with polyurethane foam, it seemed like I could do everything in 2 approaches, but the foam compacted with my fingers is too dense, heavy and sands very poorly. By the way, I redesigned the fairings on the pipes, making them a little longer.

The foam covered large cracks, but there were a lot of voids on the surface, and in the end I settled on sealant, spread it on a spatula and walked around in the places where there were cracks, carefully covered everything and left it to dry, and also ground down the cabin a little (it was kind of big). I remade the fairings on the pipes again, making them even longer =). This is what the plane looks like before painting:

I painted the plane with Zvezda acrylic paints. Total it took:

No. 12 red acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 13 light blue acrylic - 2 jars

No. 21 green aviation interior acrylic - 2 jars

No. 55 protective acrylic - 2 jars

No. 02 gray-blue acrylic - third of the jar

No. 17 white master acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 20 black master acrylic - ~5 drops

No. 07 steel master acrylic - ~5 drops

Before painting, of course, it was necessary to cover the plane with foam paper...

The first layer turned out pale, streaky and sloppy.

I painted the cabin with blue-gray acrylic + a few drops of white acrylic. I couldn’t resist and drew stars - I drew a star in Word, printed it out, cut it out and then drew it like a stencil. I painted the white stripe by hand with a small brush. As a result, after applying the second layer of paint, I painted over all the stars.

Second coat of paint:

The pipes are painted steel, the texture of the cabin is complemented with black.

The wheels are made of three layers of ceiling, turned on a drill. I painted the wheels black and steel in the center using the same drill at low speeds.

After installing the electronics, I realized that I had not taken into account the center of gravity and placed the wheels a little behind... Because of this, the plane was leaning over the engine.

I recently found out about the store efly.ru, went to investigate, in the store I found carbon rods and slats at a reasonable price, but my eye fell on piano strings, I thought I’d go for new landing gear. I bought one string, and at the same time a set of magnets for attaching the cabin. I twisted the posts out of string, coated them with titanium under the posts and sealed them with tape (bad idea). Also on the wing there are visible marks from a ballpoint pen; for some reason they did not want to be painted over with paint.

To make it more realistic, I made an antenna. I glued a spring from an umbrella to the back of the cabin, and screwed a small self-tapping screw onto the rudder. I took a braided fishing line, made a loop on one side, put it on a self-tapping screw, and tied the other end to a spring. I made the fishing line a little shorter than the distance from the spring to the screw, and when the cabin falls into place, the spring tightens the fishing line.

I forgot about the slope, and out of habit from my other planes, I immediately take off with full throttle, but here I have to smoothly with the acceleration =)

Regulator - 30A of unknown origin

Battery - 1800mah 3s

Who might be interested:

The flight box purchased from OBI contains the transmitter, tools, propellers, batteries and other small items. A few small improvements - rubber bands on the bottom to secure batteries, rubber bands to hold the propellers, and another rubber band for tools. Everything was glued with hot glue.

Some photographs show a Cessna Corvalis with a 1500mm wingspan - my very first plane, thanks to which I almost gave up aircraft modeling, so it hung in the village for 2 years without action, so I decided to give it a second life =) By the way, the cooker for the Yak-3 was borrowed from him.

And finally, photos of all my planes.

After the Cessna, I trained to fly on an indestructible model for a beginner. In the comments to it, I expressed my opinion - anyone interested can read it =)

Thank you all for your attention!