We make a toilet on the garden plot. Do-it-yourself toilet in the country - drawings and dimensions

What should every self-respecting owner of a suburban area have? Of course, first of all, the toilet. Without it, nowhere. A latrine is an important component of a comfortable stay in nature. And how to make it with your own hands and at the same time save money, this will be discussed.

Modern tendencies

It must be remembered that the latrines of the present time are significantly different from those that were several decades ago. What is it connected with? First of all, with a change not for the better in the environmental situation, which is why the requirements for sanitary standards have become tougher.

Also, innovations in the field of recycling and waste disposal, which have become more accessible to the masses, have played an important role. Modernity dictates its own rules regarding the design and comfort of toilets, and this is reflected in preferences. The place where you relieve yourself should now be not only ergonomic, but also attractive.

Based on all of the above, you can slowly start building a toilet in your summer cottage. We will touch upon the topic of capital structures made of brick and concrete slightly, and pay more attention to the external design, which is also of great importance. Like, for example, in this photo:

Of course, the external attractiveness of the latrine is important, because it is much more pleasant to relieve yourself in a beautiful environment. But first of all, you need to take care of the construction process itself and find out what and how to do in order to get a good result. Points that you should definitely consider when building a toilet at your summer cottage:

1. Based on external factors, you need to choose the method of waste neutralization, the type of outlet and drain system.
2. Choose the exact location where the toilet will be located.
3. Think about what the look and design of the booth will be like. This includes both exterior and interior design.
4. It is imperative to draw up a cost estimate in order to more or less accurately calculate future costs.

Solving these issues will require a certain amount of money, energy and time. Moreover, the easiest and least expensive of all links is the ground building (cabin or booth), but the rest will need to work hard. But let's start, all the same, with the booth.

Cabin (booth) for the toilet

So, wood is considered the most optimal material for a booth. It has excellent qualities, such as: resistance to temperature changes, the ability to retain heat, resistance to the growth of harmful microorganisms, ease of processing and environmental friendliness. There are still parameters by which the tree is in a winning position compared to other materials. But more on that later.

Supports and foundation

As for the basis for the toilet, that is, the foundation, then, oddly enough, you can do without it. And that's why. The fact is that during seasonal shifts of the soil, the deeper layers undergo stronger changes, while the surface ones can move 5 centimeters on average. This will not affect the stability of the cabin in any way, except perhaps quite a bit, which will be completely unnoticeable. And piles, foundation tape and pillars, on the contrary, tend to be more skewed.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to install the foundation, then this should be done before the cold weather in order to avoid the above-mentioned problems. The exception is foundations that are well buried in the soil, such can easily endure winter and frost.

So how do you install a cabin without a base?

Everything is very simple. To do this, concrete posts for trellises are taken, and a booth is installed on top of them. You can also put a booth on ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths or bricks. But the first option (columns) will be better. In the southern regions, trellis posts are often used for vineyards, and where the climate is not so mild, they are used for climbing plants.

Tapestry poles are produced from 1.2 to 6 meters long, with dimensions from 10X12 to 20X30 centimeters. They have a cross section in the form of a trapezoid. On the larger side there are rigging eyes made of wire rod ranging in size from 6 to 12 millimeters, on the smaller side there are rounded corners. To get the pins on which the booth will be attached to the base, you need to cut the eyes in the middle part with a grinder and unbend them.

If a cesspool is provided for the toilet in advance, then you don’t have to worry about the safety of the rear beam of the cabin, which serves as a support. In this case, the negative chemical environment for the tree is not terrible.

If your summer cottage is located in an area where there are frequent winds, then the booth still needs to be strengthened. For this, professional pipes (40x40x2) or support posts made of timber (80x80) are well suited. At the same time, the metal base must be concreted about half a meter below the humus layer, and the wooden base must first be treated with hot bitumen, then with rough roofing material with sprinkling, and then dug to a depth of 30 centimeters.

Structures, cladding and materials

For a booth, as a rule, 4 types of lumber are used. It:

• edged and unedged board (“twenty”) or roof slats measuring 50x20;
• for sheathing from the outside - edged or tongue-and-groove board with dimensions from 20 to 30 millimeters;
• for flooring and toilet seat - grooved boards (40X (120-150));
• frame timber (80x80 or 60x60).

The sheathing board can be replaced with OSB (8x20 thick) or waterproof plywood. By the way, from OSB you can cut laths for crates. A little more expensive, but on some sides it will even be better for a forty tongue-and-groove for sheathing.

The best option for lining the cabin with a grooved board is horizontal lining with belts. In this case, the combs of the tongues should be directed upwards, and the grooves downwards, which will protect the skin from the accumulation of unnecessary moisture in the tongue. The door is sheathed vertically.

If the design plan includes curvilinear sections, then it is best to make a marine-type boat sheathing, as shown in the figure. This will be especially good for areas where there is a lot of rainfall, but a little worse for windy areas, for which it is best to use tongue and groove. Using an electric jigsaw with a swivel shoe, you can make a trimmed board from a boat board. In this case, it is important to observe the angle of inclination of the visor of the board, which should be within 30 degrees. It should also be borne in mind that the peaks of the boards should be directed down the slope, as shown in the figure.

It is important to know that after trimming, solid lumber must be treated with special preparations that prevent putrefactive processes -. After that, it is necessary to impregnate twice with a water-polymer emulsion. This drug is affordable and can provide good protection against moisture for years to come. Be sure to adhere to a strict sequence of impregnation. Otherwise, PVA glue simply will not allow the biocide to cover the tree with a protective film. Materials for lining the toilet seat and flooring (from the inside), which are facing the cesspool or the ground, are best treated with bituminous mastic or hot bitumen.

The appearance of the toilet for a summer residence

A toilet made of wood in a suburban area is traditionally performed in 4 architectural forms that have funny names. See images.

• birdhouse;
• hut;
• house;
• hut.

In the photo you can see the types of wooden toilet cubicles.

These models do not have significant differences, but there is a difference between them. Which? Let's consider this question in more detail.

11 drawings of a country toilet "Birdhouse"

Even simpler in design, and you need very little land under it. But the design is considered not very durable, and the “birdhouse” is also prone to blowing and does not hold heat well. By the way, these shortcomings apply to all buildings with a shed type of roof. The design of such a structure as a birdhouse toilet is minimized. But this model is perfect as a summer toilet, on the roof of which you can hoist a pressure water tank, where the water will warm up from the sun. In addition, such a "load" contributes to the greater stability of the booth. Also, a building of this type can be used as a room for household needs.

3 drawings of a country toilet "Hut"

The advantages of this model are: resistance to precipitation and winds, strength, simplicity of design, low material consumption. Disadvantages: it requires a considerable amount of land for construction, as well as the inconvenience in terms of the fact that without calculating the capacity a little, you can hit your head, moreover, from both sides. Therefore, you need to take a height along the ridge of at least 3 meters, but then you won’t be able to save materials.

8 drawings of a country toilet "House"

The type of toilet called "house" is the most popular. Its design is considered better than the "birdhouse" in terms of strength, and the same amount of land and materials for construction will be needed. The “house” is also more suitable for the embodiment of design fantasies, although it will be more difficult to install a water tank.

6 drawings of a country toilet "Hut"

The "hut" is the most complex in design, however, it is very durable and can withstand any vagaries of the weather. An interesting cut gives a field for imagination, the “hut” can be decorated as you like. Well, the functionality and ergonomics are generally on top! Inside, you can equip a hanger, a washstand and a shelf, and it will not take up extra space.

Dimensions of a toilet for a summer residence

The allowable dimensions of the "house" and "birdhouse" on the floor (including the toilet seat) are from 1.5 meters deep and from 1.2 meters wide. The same 1.5 meters for depth are taken for the "hut" with a "hut", while the traditional width is from 0.9 meters. In a hut, this is considered by the level of the shoulders (within 1.6 meters from the floor for a person with average height in shoes), in a hut, measurements are taken along the floor. It is noteworthy that in the "Khrushchev", which are built using blocks, there are toilets with dimensions of 0.7X1.1, but they are not designed to go into them in outerwear and country shoes.

However, to build a toilet in a summer cottage, it is still permissible to reduce the width to 1 meter.

According to the rules, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a person in a standing position to the wall, this is especially important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. At the same time, it is optimal to make the height from floor to ceiling 2.1 meters, and above the toilet seat - 1.9 meters. The height of the side of the toilet seat from the floor should be within 50 cm, in contrast to the standard version adopted in apartments, which is 40 cm.

The “birdhouse”, “hut” and “house” models have one common, but in a certain sense, significant drawback: if the door is not locked, both the door and the booth will loosen within 10-20 minutes. If this happens repeatedly, then the toilet cubicle risks losing stability. To prevent this from happening, you just need to install the door on the barn hinges (as shown in the figure), and then there will certainly be no cause for alarm. Because of its strength, the "hut" is not threatened with loosening, so its door can be safely mounted on secret hinges.

Building a booth

The simplest is the installation of a "birdhouse", while the installation process is carried out using nails 100 mm for a beam of 60 mm or 150 mm for a beam of 80X80 mm. Sheathing is nailed with nails 60-70 mm.

The whole process of building a birdhouse is shown in the figures.

Algorithm for building a toilet of the "birdhouse" model:

1. Take the roofing material, then lay it on the corner plates (pillars) and the carrier belt. Roofing material should be simple, without sprinkling.
2. After that, immediately assemble the lower support frame from the timber. Processing is required. Why immediately? Because roofing material not adapted to ultraviolet rays can quickly deteriorate.
3. Then, flooring is carried out to the front edge of the toilet seat. Boards are stuffed into pieces of the remaining frame, the same thickness as for the floor. We also do not forget about processing (especially from the inside).
4. We carry out the preparation of the rear and front frames, while the joints cut into half a tree.
5. The back and front frame are nailed to the bottom and reinforced with ties. The ties should be cut in 1/4.
6. The frame for the toilet seat is made in the same way.
7. The toilet seat needs to be sheathed, then cut out the seat window, and then proceed to the wall sheathing.
8. Roof cladding assembly.
9. Any rigid roofing material is used for roofing. A figured window (the so-called "ace") is cut out in the door leaf and above the door itself.
10. A door canopy is made and corners are sheathed.

Now the room is quite usable.

Of course, when building a waste site, other types of buildings are also used, which are shown in this video:

Do-it-yourself country toilet: video

"Hut" is also a fairly popular model, but it is more difficult to build it. Therefore, below are projects that indicate the exact calculations of the material and cutting boards. An illustration is also provided as an example. It should be noted that the door in the "hut" has a high degree of strength and is able to withstand any bad weather, even strong winds. Even if the owner, out of forgetfulness, leaves the door open for some time, the wind, of course, will loosen it, but it will not damage the canvases and repairs will be kept to a minimum.

The project of the cabin of the toilet model "hut": photo

Below are less detailed drawings of several more projects: "birdhouse" (second option), "house" and "hut". However, for those who have already understood how to build a "hut", it will be much easier to deal with the above models.

Toilet in the garden

There are certain factors (which will be discussed at the end of the article), due to which it is better to install the “house” and “hut” models in the depths of the garden, that is, among the trees. But the construction of a latrine in the garden has a number of features. We will not describe them in detail, it is better to watch the video and you will understand everything yourself:

Building a toilet in the garden: video

Outbuildings

In suburban areas, it is traditionally practiced to combine a toilet, shower and outbuildings. Also, they are sometimes attached to the premises of summer kitchens and a place where you can hide from rain or wind (in case there is no house on the site). This is all absolutely correct and justified. And that's why.

The fact is that in the summer cottage the amount of "gray" water that enters the drain after using water in the shower or in the kitchen is much less than fecal. And in comparison, for example, with a residential building, the volume of runoff is small. Therefore, it does not make sense to make this very drain separate. A cesspool is a valid and often used option for waste disposal in a utility block. Below are examples of how to make a hozblok along with a shower and toilet in a summer cottage.

Plan of the Cheburashka hozblok: photo

This model of a utility room with a funny name was invented back in the days of the “Khrushchev thaw”. Kits of parts for "cheburashka" can be purchased now, and, most interestingly, under the same names as before. The big advantage of this option is its reasonable price, functionality, simplicity and minimum footprint. In this case, the pillars for the support are concreted or dug directly into the ground (profiled pipe 40x40x2, and timber 100x100). Sheathing is currently made using a profiled sheet, and earlier it was customary to sheathe with slate.

The presented figure shows several plans for household blocks, more complex in design:

Layout of utility blocks with a "change house": photo

They consist of large rooms, which include a barn or warehouse, a room where you can hide from the weather and a kitchen. Also, such a room involves the installation of a window in it. You can also equip a mini-room where a sofa, table and chair can fit. Entrance to the shower room and toilet from the street. So, a considerable area of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch a building is a pretty winning option.

The figure below shows a utility room, which is optimal for building it in the corner of the site. This option implies the installation of a washstand according to the summer type, that is, in the open air. The main difference of this type of structure is its maximum compactness and very small size. It is noteworthy that the building according to the plan is brick, but if it is made of wood, then the dimensions of the premises in the plan can be reduced to 2x2 meters.

cesspool

And this figure shows a diagram of the construction of an economic block and a toilet in the yard. Reflector 1 deserves special attention, which is
one of the main components of the toilet, because it is he who directs the bowel movements to the front of the drain hole. Then the whole mass gradually slides into the so-called pumping pocket. During this process, the discarded masses are mixed with bacteria. It is thanks to the reflector that the correct biocenosis occurs. If you do not use it, then the pit will need to be 2 times deeper and larger in volume. "Gray" drains can merge into a pit without a reflector and also fall into its front part. In order to avoid infiltration into the soil, it is imperative to use a blind concrete box 4 and a clay lock 3. An inspection and cleaning door 2 is also essential.

Country toilet in the house

It is quite possible to install a country toilet at home, however, you need to know the important rules and solve a number of problems that you may encounter during the installation process. So:

cesspool

It must be remembered that the discharge of wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground is almost impossible. Otherwise, you will have to adhere to certain distances that are prescribed in sanitary standards. It:

• from water sources, a distance of at least 30 meters is accepted, and with traditional geology (in the middle lane) - from 50 to 80 meters;
• the distance from plantings of food crops and stagnant water bodies should also be from 30 meters;
• the distance from flowing water bodies (rivers and streams) is taken from 15 meters;
• from roadbeds and buildings - 5 meters;
• from the border of the site, bushes and non-fruit trees - from 2 meters.

It should be borne in mind that these rules apply not only to objects on your own site, but also on neighbors' sites. And, as they say, you can’t joke with this, because in case of violations on your part, the law will be on the side of the neighbors.

Therefore, it is very important to understand that the toilet in the summer cottage should be built with a cesspool of a deaf type,. Modern and improved tools designed for cesspools can help a lot with this. Sanitary barrels usually leave the city once a season, and by agreeing with neighbors, you can share the cost of the call among those who use the services.

Summer residents, who are able to independently make something on their site, did not bypass the cesspool. The video below shows how to make a cesspool with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself cesspool: video

Smell

The installation of a toilet with a flush system and a siphon is not allowed even in those areas that have a permanent water supply. Why? The fact is that because of the water there will be an excessive accumulation of moisture, which can have a detrimental effect on the bacteria that live in the pit, which are very necessary for us. As a result, an almost emergency situation can occur and you will have to call a special service and carry out a serious cleaning.

However, the installation of a backlash closet does not exclude that unpleasant odors will not penetrate into the room. This can happen for rather banal reasons: due to the blowing out of the ventilation draft by the wind and its jumps. But there is a solution to this problem as well. In order to avoid the aforementioned misunderstandings, you need or breather. It is forced draft ventilation, due to which a pressure below atmospheric pressure is formed in the pit.

You should not install a fan on the breather broach - this will do absolutely nothing. After all, an ordinary household fan will not be able to function for a long time in an aggressive environment. There are special fans designed for this purpose. However, they are quite expensive. Such fans must be explosion-proof, and they will also need to be cleaned frequently.

In a house with heating, it will be quite easy to install a summer closet. Boiler and furnace options are shown in the pictures. How to do it? One of the most important links is the installation of a backlash channel with thermogradient thrust under the breather. You also need to pay attention to the fact that the breather pipe must protrude at least 70 cm above the roof ridge and the mouth of the chimney. And in order for the hood to function well in the warm season (when there is no heating), you need to take a metal pipe and paint it black, which, as you know, attracts heat on sunny days.

There are also options for toilets for cottages without heating. Which? To begin with, let's give an example: in the first "Khrushchev" rather large toilets were installed, and the drain was of such strength that no brushes and other attributes were needed. Such a drain force was achieved due to the fact that the barrel was hung almost under the ceiling, the height of which was 2.8 meters. On the side of the barrel there was a chain with a pear, with the help of which the draining process was carried out. Thus, the height of the flow of water falling down was about 2 meters.

The noise that arose as a result of the descent of water was very strong. Subsequently, they came up with models of compact toilets, where the barrels were located on the back of the seat.

At first, the shape of the toilet bowls was in the form of sinks with a tub, but with a small pressure of water, the contents were almost impossible to flush. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique descent, which was much more convenient. This type of toilet is shown in the figure.

Not so long ago, your obedient servant also decided to improve the toilet in the suburban area. I wanted to buy something with a siphon so that there was no unpleasant smell. A sloping toilet can flush even without good water pressure. And what if you make pressure, as in the "Khrushchev"? So there will be water savings, and the quality of the drain will remain at its best.

At first I thought about buying an inexpensive compact toilet without a dispenser, in which water can be flushed as long as the button is pressed. Then it would be necessary to raise it higher. But then I thought that it would be inconvenient: to stretch high, they give water by the hour, so you have to buy a pressure storage tank in addition.

As a result, I took the "shell" with a direct release down. For water, I took a 50-liter plastic barrel and hung it from the ceiling. I decided to supply water for flushing with the help of two pieces of plastic corrugation through a ball valve with a handle so that it could be opened more sharply.

I was pleasantly pleased with the result, because it took only up to 3 liters of water to flush. And if you calculate the number of flushes per day from a tank with a capacity of 50 liters, then it turned out from 15 to 25 flushes per day. On top of that, the bacteria in the pit feel great in this situation!

It is noteworthy that the booths described above can also withstand tanks with a volume of up to 200 liters. However, you should not install them, because frequent drains will oversaturate the pit with moisture, and its contents will begin to overflow and turn sour. I don't think anyone needs it.

Without cesspool

You can make a country closet without a cesspool in the form of a dry closet. But after all, natural or artificial bacteria are used for any sewage system, and it turns out that this “bio” is what it is. Also, when purchasing a dry closet, you can buy not “bio” at all. Therefore, it is necessary to better understand this topic and figure out how to receive and process wastewater bypassing the sewer. In other words, how to install an autonomous toilet on your site.

Toilets - "autonomous" public can carry out the processing of waste in two types, biological and chemical. It happens that all this is combined, depending on the connected cartridge. "Chemists" process wastewater in two ways:

• strong oxidizing agents of inorganic origin;
• organic abiogenic reagents (for example, formalin).

Also, "chemists" have a high absorption and throughput, expensive prices. The content of the cartridge is toxic, its disposal and refilling is carried out by specially trained people using special equipment and protective equipment. Consequently, in normal domestic conditions, chemical toilets are practically not used.

In dry closets, biocenosis is carried out thanks to specially grown cultures. It turns out that a deaf cesspool, in which the latest antiseptics are used, is also a dry closet. Below are options that do not require pumping and without the accumulation of liquefied effluents.

It is interesting that a type of toilet was used earlier, which has survived to this day and is being successfully used now. This is the so-called. There is also a variety of it: powder closet. They are slightly different, but have a lot in common. Most importantly, they use natural bacteria from swamps saturated with peat. These microorganisms have important properties. What kind? They are inactive, they process little effluent (based on the net volume of the culture). However, their main advantage is their extraordinary vitality, it is also common for these bacteria to hibernate and wake up when favorable conditions occur.

It is accepted that in a composting or simple peat toilet there is a container with a stone drainage of 40-200 liters. It will ensure the absorption of an excess of moisture, and then it will gradually be able to give it away. You also need a breather that will absorb harmful gases. Both are very important for a peat toilet, since without these two components a stable culture cannot arise, it can dry out, fall asleep, turn sour, or die altogether.

The advantage of a peat dry closet is also ease of use. After visiting it, you just need to pour peat crumbs into the funnel. The contents of the collection should be periodically shaken out on a compost heap. After 2-3 years, the aged, disinfected and fermented compost is suitable as a fertilizer. However, a composting dry closet does not tolerate overload, like a powder closet, and does not eliminate unpleasant odors. If, for example, a walk is expected in the country for several days, then after it it will be guaranteed that the dry closet will need to be cleaned and refilled.

Autonomous toilets based on microflora use advanced high-efficiency bacteria, which are obtained by genetic engineering. The most important thing is that they are completely harmless to people, they have been successfully used since the 80s of the last century, and they have long passed the test of "strength". The process of changing a culture cartridge is as simple as changing a baby's diaper. But its contents must be handed over for processing, as it is not suitable for fertilizer. If you spend 1-2 days a week in the country, then one cartridge cassette is enough for the whole summer, and 2-3 replacements will be needed for the season. I must say that there are quite a lot of varieties of cassettes and it is very important to be able to understand them so as not to acquire a fake.

For example, you should not take an expensive cabin (as shown in Figure 1 below). Of course, it is comfortable, warm, has anti-vandal protection, and is able to take heavy loads. But after all, the shelf life of any bacteria-based cartridge is still limited, regardless of the nature of use. At the same time, the culture can lose its properties before its absorption capacity is depleted, and the price of the cassette is not small.

One should beware of purchasing cheap handicraft goods (as shown in Figure 2). In this case, an “alternative” low-quality and inexpensive bio-toilet is taken (as shown in the picture below) and a cubicle is built around it. As a result, rapid degradation occurs, an unpleasant odor appears, and the cartridge is changed for its own money. And if we take a full-fledged toilet for a summer residence, then a country-household option is better (3). Its price is within reason, the resource for drains is less, and it is designed for a family.

The same applies to bionitases. Public high-capacity, which can work both on chemistry and on microflora (pos. 4), are quite costly in terms of money. Special bio-toilets for dachas (pos. 5) have been put on sale, they are cheaper and are based on a family. However, if only water is poured into their barrels, they quickly deteriorate. Water is replaced with a special liquid, which is supplied for flushing in very small doses, literally drops. Therefore, it is important to ask in advance what the toilet is flushed with and the cost of this very flush.

As a summer option, bucket toilets (pos. 6) are also used, which are designed for 2-5 days of use with a number of 3 to 5 people. They are good for short term use. There are also chemical options that are conditionally disposable, they are more often used on trips and in the field. Such toilets are rented out, and after the expiration date of the absorber or upon return, they are given for refilling.

Another good option for giving is a bio-toilet bowl with a separate cartridge (pos. 7). Its main advantage is that it is much cheaper than a whole toilet. The cabin can be made independently or bought. In general, you get a rather comfortable mini-room where you can relieve yourself (pos. 8). For a suburban area, this is perfect, because the cost of a toilet bowl and cartridges is much less than the price of a cesspool for a booth and a zero cycle.

However, the distribution of dry closets is not put on a wide scale due to the fact that the microorganisms created for small cartridges are not able to accept "gray" drains. Therefore, for a summer residence and a suburban area, which are visited from spring to autumn, a deaf cesspool is best suited. It is processed, though not very effective, but omnivorous bacteria that do not require a large habitat.

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People come to the dacha not only to take care of the garden and the garden, but also to relax. To make it pleasant to be on the site, it is important to build beautiful buildings - from the house to the toilet. A good example can be seen in the photo.

Choosing a place to install a toilet

The toilet in the summer cottage must be built in compliance with sanitary requirements. It should be located at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from drinking water sources (wells, wells). If the terrain is uneven, then the toilet is located below the level of water intake for drinking. From it to the cellar or residential building should be at least 12 meters.

In addition, the choice of location for this building depends on the planned method of cleaning and its frequency. If the waste will be removed using a special cesspool, then the toilet must be placed in such a way that equipment can easily drive up to it.

Based on this, it is advisable to place a latrine at the end of the site, indenting 1-2 meters from the fence and leading a convenient, and if possible, beautiful path to it.

Choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence and its design

For those who plan to spend a lot of time in their summer cottage, it is important how the toilet building will look like, how comfortable it will be to be in it.

There are three types of such buildings that do not require connection to utilities. The most famous of them is a bathroom with a cesspool. More convenient to use, but less common, are such types of sanitary buildings as backlash-closet and powder-closet.

Installing a toilet in the country has its own characteristics depending on its type. For example, a closet powder is the best option for owners of sites where groundwater passes near the surface, and also if they rarely come to the dacha. Backlash closet can be made directly in the house. The simplest design is the usual one, familiar to every person. For such a design does not require special knowledge and skills.

Ordinary outdoor toilet in the country

This type of building is easy to create. First, they dig a hole. Its width should be 1 meter, and the depth - 1.5-2 meters. Crushed stone is laid at the bottom, and the walls are laid out with bricks or other similar material, including improvised ones. For example, the bottom is cut off from an old barrel and placed in a pit, as an option, it is also allowed to use unusable car tires. A prerequisite is that the walls must be waterproof so that sewage does not penetrate into the groundwater.

As for cleaning, this is not particularly important for owners of summer cottages. Since the toilet is mainly used in the summer, the pit fills up at a slow pace. When it is 2/3 full, it is simply filled up, and the toilet is moved to another place. After about 8 years, the contents of the pit will rot, and it is used as a good fertilizer. After cleaning the pit, the toilet can be returned to its former place. See also: "".

Having completed the creation of the cesspool, proceed to the construction of the above-ground part. If desired, you can make a booth yourself, and ready-made buildings are sold in stores.

To create a toilet cabin, you will need the following materials:

• plywood (chipboard);
• beam for a seat measuring 50x50;
• timber for the frame 3 meters long and 100x100 in size;
• slate sheet.

Further installation of the toilet in the country is as follows. First, a frame is built. To do this, the timber is sawn to size: height 2.1 meters, length 1.5 meters, width 1 meter. After preparing the material, the bars are connected according to the “half-tree” principle.

0.5 meters are measured from the floor level and the material for the construction of the seat is inserted into the main beam. A meter from the wall make another jumper. This completes the construction of the base for the seat. After laying a sheet of plywood or chipboard, make a hole under the toilet seat with a jigsaw, install it and fix it with self-tapping screws.

The walls of the toilet are sheathed with plywood or chipboard, if desired, with a cut board. Sometimes they are insulated with sheet foam or mineral wool. A sheet of galvanized iron or slate is laid on the roof beams. See also: "How to make a shower in the country with your own hands - options for a garden shower, construction instructions".

In order to give the structure strength and stability, it is deepened into the ground. Then install the door. This completes the construction of the toilet.

Powder closet

This type of toilet can be built in just one day. The main difference between this option is the absence of a cesspool. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage: on the one hand, you do not have to spend time on its arrangement, and on the other, cleaning will often be required. See also: "".

To build a powder closet, two containers are prepared, one of them will serve for waste, and the other for dry peat (it is permissible to use dried earth, sawdust, etc.).

Then they choose a place for the construction of the building and install the house in the same way as in the previous version, adding 25-30 centimeters in width and making a hinged cover for the toilet seat. After they put the waste tank on the floor, a box with chopped dry peat. After using the toilet, the waste must be “powdered” with earth, sawdust or peat. After filling the container, sewage is removed to the compost pit.

play closet

In this way, a toilet in a summer cottage is the most difficult to build. Its main advantage is the ability to install a warm toilet inside the house, providing underground cleaning. Cleaning the toilet is possible only with the help of special sewage equipment. If you can’t use this machine, then there is no point in building this type of bathroom.

The building is divided into two parts, one of which is located in the house, and the other - on the street. The last of them is a pit for sewage. It must be sealed. The volume should be 500 cubic meters. m. per person permanently residing in the house. A manhole with two covers is installed above the pit. The wooden one is fixed above the ceiling, the cast-iron one is above ground level. The void between them must be filled with heat-insulating material.

To avoid unpleasant odors in the house, it is important to create good ventilation in the toilet. Building a toilet in the country is not difficult - there are several options for such buildings. You can cope with their arrangement on your own, devoting a few days to work.

Do-it-yourself country toilet

Even if there is no house or gazebo in the suburban area, then without a good, neat toilet, any vacation will not be a joy. And although usually the toilet is located in the farthest corner somewhere on the edge of the site, it must be made stylish and comfortable. We will talk about how to build a toilet with our own hands and present to your attention detailed drawings of the most popular designs. With their help, you can quickly install the toilet you like, avoiding mistakes in construction.

Drawings and dimensions for the construction of a wooden toilet

The most common, one might say, standard option in the country - toilet in the form of a wooden house with a cesspool. The biotoilets or peat toilets that have appeared recently make it possible to do without a cesspool, but in any case, you will have to build a booth.

If you want to create your own, original design, then to determine the required amount of material, it is best to use a toilet drawing with dimensions, developed personally. Otherwise, you can use the standard project.

Developing a drawing of a country toilet, start with frame design. In doing so, indicate dimensions buildings, mark how much and what materials will be needed, indicate the required cross-section of wooden beams and boards.

Remember that that on the drawing of a wooden toilet it is necessary to indicate the cutting pattern of the facing material. As a rule, the calculation of its quantity is done for the front, rear and one of the side walls due to the symmetry of the structure.Then add the required amount of building material for the other side.

When designing a toilet drawing, do not forget that the front should be higher than the back walls, to create the necessary slope.

If a wooden ceiling is planned, make the necessary calculations in your plan, additionally indicate the dimensions of the roofing sheet. At the end of the work, draw up a final estimate of the necessary materials.

As an example, look at the finished drawing of the toilet and familiarize yourself with the features of its design.

1. Used for frame timber 100 x 100 mm or 150 x 150 mm and edged board with a thickness of at least 20 mm.
2. The height of the toilet should not be less than 2 meters, with a width of 1.2 meters. The exact dimensions can be found by examining the drawing of the toilet for the dacha.
3. Front and rear walls of the cabin are rectangular and lateral - trapezoidal, which allows you to achieve the necessary slope of the roof.
4. For penetration of daylight and as exhaust ventilation a window has been carved in one of the side walls.
5. floor covering performed boards 50 mm thick and sewn up OSB sheet.
6. It is installed on a basis from a bar with a section of 150х150 mm connected with nails. To increase the strength of the skids, their joints are made "in a groove" with a depth of 50 mm.
7. Do-it-yourself drawings for building a toilet in the country house point to required door dimensions 1950x705 mm. For its manufacture, edged board and OSB boards.
8. As you can see, for roof buildings , with a step of 400 mm are installed rafters from boards 100 x 50 mm. They are connected to the frame with nails. As a roof profile sheets or slate are used.

Taken as a basis, a ready-made drawing of a wooden toilet, which can be used for summer cottages, can be modified to fit your conditions. It is important to observe the necessary proportions. Please note that an increase in size will entail additional costs for the purchase of material.

Drawings of country toilets of the "birdhouse" type

Whether you are using a chemical, peat, or pit latrine, you will need booth. We bring to your attention drawing of a wooden toilet of the "birdhouse" type .

For the manufacture of the frame of the base and floor, larch boards and beams will be needed, and pine lumber can be used on walls, doors and ceilings.

Building a toilet with your own hands is necessary from frame assembly, the drawings of which are made on a separate sheet.

Remember that this will determine how even and neat the country toilet will be, so strictly follow the dimensions and study the drawings in the most careful way.

After making the frame start cladding the structure with boards and door installation. At the final stage, roof and outdoor work. The house itself can be painted with oil paints or varnishes, and the floor and base must additionally be treated with an antiseptic.

You can build a toilet in the country with your own hands, the drawings that we offer have been tested in more than one area. Let's just show you some of the nuances of its installation.

If you use a peat or dry closet, then the house can be installed on a crushed stone pillow. To do this, soil up to a depth of 20 cm is removed along the perimeter and covered with rubble or broken bricks. Fixing the toilet to the base is not required.

In the case of installing a "birdhouse" with a cesspool, a foundation will be required from concrete blocks 200 x 200 x 400 mm or an overlap of two borders.

A metal profile sheet is used for the roof, and a bent strip of galvanized steel is used as a ridge.

You can build a country toilet with your own hands over the weekend, as the drawings presented by us contain dimensions that have been tested in practice. At the same time, the quality of such a structure will be much higher than that of a purchased product.

Drawings of country toilets of the "hut" type

Do-it-yourself country toilet of the "hut" type is not difficult at all. The drawings and assembly diagrams below will help you create a structure as soon as possible.

Work should start with front and rear wall assembly . For this you will need edged pine board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. You can fix the structure with both nails and self-tapping screws.

By installing transverse , longitudinal and spacer beams, start assembling the toilet with your own hands (see drawings). After that, install the cross member of the pedestal, fixing it to the back wall and the spacer beam.

Assembling the frame sew up the base of the floor and the platform with boards . On the floor, it is better to use hardwood boards up to 50 mm thick. After that, proceed to the sheathing of the slopes. For them, you can use an edged board 20x100 mm.

When installing a hut-type toilet, pay attention to the drawings of the rear wall. It is there that during the sheathing it is required to install a ventilation duct.

At the last stage, they assemble and hang the door .

The “hut” toilet, the drawings of which we recommend using in our work, can be assembled by one person in one or two days. Do not forget to protect the wood of the house with paint or varnish, and additionally treat the base of the floor with an antiseptic.

Choosing a material for a country toilet

Most often in suburban areas set wooden toilet structures. This is due to the simplicity of their construction, the availability and cheapness of the material. However, even wood treated with antiseptics rots and collapses over time, so these toilets are very short-lived. If the drawing of the country toilet was made by an amateur, then this process can go even faster in the event of an incorrect design of the base of the floor or errors in the arrangement of the roof.

The most durable is brick toilet, which is quite easy to build with your own hands, you can not look for drawings. Important right mark the base, build a foundation and maintain the verticality of the walls. This is the only way to hope for sufficient strength of the structure.

No less reliable is metal country toilet , whose drawings and dimensions are not a problem in the age of information technology. But for its construction you will need a welding machine and the ability to handle it. Despite this, such designs are very simple to manufacture, so they are successfully used in many cottages.

Requirements for the location of the toilet

When installing a toilet, approach the issue of its placement in the most careful way. Here a few recommendations :

• The building should not interfere with neighbors, so be sure to indent 1-1.5 meters from the fence and install the house with a door towards your yard.
• Consider the depth of the aquifer when arranging the cesspool.
• Be sure to provide access roads for the sewer truck.
• Do not build a toilet in lowlands, as it will be flooded during a flood.
• Consider the prevailing wind direction in your area.

By listening to these tips and having additionally studied and fulfilled the sanitary and hygienic requirements, you will not have to transfer the toilet to a new place after a short time.

Designs of pits for sewage at the country toilet

All pit latrines are divided into two types: pits with drainage and sealed. The first type is much simpler and cheaper, but with a high location of groundwater, it can pollute them and is therefore prohibited by current regulations.

Sealed pits have no installation restrictions.

You can build a sewage pit in one of the following ways:

• Brickwork.
• Polymer tanks.
• Reinforced concrete rings.
• Concrete, filled with crates.

To build a country toilet with a sealed pit made of brickwork, reinforced concrete rings or with concrete walls, they dig a pit with dimensions corresponding to those applied by making drawings with their own hands. After that, the bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with a layer of sand.

Next, concrete is poured, and after it hardens, depending on the type of walls, they are laid out of brick, reinforced concrete rings are installed or a crate is installed and it is poured with concrete. Next, the walls need to be plastered and treated together with the bottom with bituminous mastic. Please note that the walls should rise above the surface of the site by at least 16 cm.

The same pit with any of the main walls described above can be built with a filter bottom. To do this, it is not concreted, but covered with a 30 cm layer of rubble or broken bricks. It should be noted that the walls of such a pit do not need to be plastered and treated with bitumen. This design contributes to the absorption of the liquid fraction into the soil, so it will be necessary to clean such a pit much less frequently.

Installing a plastic container in the pit prevents fecal matter from entering the ground, therefore it is allowed by sanitary and hygienic standards for use in any territory.

How to install a wooden toilet in place

In this chapter, we will talk about how to build a toilet, the drawing of which is given below. We present the complete instructions for its construction:

1. Set the foundation . For this purpose, it is not required to pour a concrete base, it is enough to dig concrete wall blocks or pillars around the perimeter of the building.

1. From a wooden beam 50x50 mm or 80x80 mm put together a frame . In the same capacity, profile metal pipes can be used. The frame must have four vertical supports.
2. Longitudinal elements are installed as roof trim protruding at least 30 cm beyond the perimeter of the house.

1. To tie the base, fasten four planks at the level of the toilet seat . At the same time, be sure to consider your height for the convenience of using the toilet. Usually the height of the toilet seat is set no more than 40 cm from the finished floor.
2. Next, install the jibs diagonally along the back and side walls. .

1. To install the door, add two vertical supports not more than 190 cm high, connected at the top with a jumper.
2. Sheathe the frame with wooden planks , corrugated board, slate, etc.
3. Make a door on the back wall for easy emptying of waste containers. You can make a cutout along the entire width of the wall to the height of the toilet seat, securing it with hinges.
4. Covering the roof, seal it with roofing material or other moisture insulator in the case of wooden boards. Still, it is better to use slate or a metal profile sheet.

1. Install a ventilation pipe if necessary. by cutting a hole in the toilet seat and the roof. Be sure to seal all cracks.
2. hang the door . Do not forget to equip it with a latch or hook. Make a window in the door for natural light.

Don't forget to paint the toilet to protect it from the weather. If you install a metal frame, then it is covered with a protective layer before being sheathed.

Country powder closet

In the case when your site is located in an area with high groundwater, it will not be possible to equip a cesspool - this is prohibited by sanitation standards. Drawings will help to get out of this situation, with the help of which you can build an eco-friendly country toilet - powder closet with your own hands.

Its design provides for a container for collecting sewage, which after each visit is “powdered” with a layer of peat or sawdust. After filling the sewer tank, its contents are dumped into a compost heap, and then used as fertilizer.

Despite the fact that powder closet can be installed even in a country house, the design is quite laborious to maintain, therefore it is used only as a temporary solution to the problem.

Backlash closet for a summer residence

You can build a backlash-closet type toilet in the country near the house (see drawing) or even in a specially designated room inside. However, first familiarize yourself with its main feature - since the cesspool is outside, in winter the use of the toilet becomes problematic, so the sewage pit is heated.

Sometimes, in order to avoid spending on heating, such a toilet is used only in the warm season, completely cleaning the pit before the onset of cold weather. In this case, in winter they resort to the help of powder closets or dry closets.

So, consider the drawing of a country toilet and familiarize yourself with the features of its design:

• Cesspool - only hermetic type, with an electric heating circuit in the walls.
• Availability required exhaust pipe . Ventilation can be done through a stove or fireplace. Sometimes the pit is heated with warm air from the stove heating of the dacha.
• Equipped over the cesspool manhole or cover double design with intermediate insulation.
• The mandatory requirement is the presence of a slope at the bottom of the pit away from the house.

Despite the obvious convenience of using backlash closets, they have not received wide distribution, since they require additional costs for heating the pit in the winter.

Before you start building a toilet in the country, look at the photos and drawings of existing structures. Perhaps you just want to repeat one of them, or maybe take the most original ideas in order to create a toilet stall of your own design.

Where does the arrangement of a summer cottage begin? Well, sir, you have questions. From the toilet, of course (option: “Hey, well, you asked! From the push, a no brainer!”). So let's see what you need to know and how to do in order to quickly, without unnecessary hassle and expense, build a toilet in the country. What is it, why is it and why without it there is no way at all - see above. Therefore, we omit the typical preambles.

Trends of the times

The country toilet today is not at all the same as it was 20 or even 10 years ago. And it's not just fashion:

• The environmental situation as a whole has deteriorated and, accordingly, sanitary requirements have become tougher. Traditional solutions do not always fit into them.
• There has been a real revolution in the technology of recycling and neutralization of waste, and many of its achievements are available in everyday life.
• People's demands for quality of life have increased, including not only comfort with ergonomics, but also external design.

Based on this, we will figure out how to build a country toilet with our own hands. With one small caveat: we will only touch on brick and concrete structures in passing: this is already a capital construction with all the ensuing requirements. At the summer cottage, it is possible to build a separate warm capital toilet only in exceptional cases due to the small land area. But let's dwell on the architectural design of the most important building, which is included in the quality of life, and the toilet in this respect is one of the most difficult objects. If not the hardest. However, amenable to decision; for an example, see fig.

Note: toilets from a profiled sheet on a metal frame, frankly, are uncomfortable - in the summer it is parko, in the off-season it is cold. Good metal cabins are made mainly of industrial production with insulation and inner lining. Then the production cycle is cheaper than carpentry. If you are still interested in this aspect, then the home-made upper structure will be identical, and the floor with a toilet seat will be described below.

Let's look at how to bring beauty in the end. First you need to deal with the construction, and the design is already tied to it. To build a toilet that is cozy, clean, hygienic and pleasing to the eye, you must first solve other problems:

1. Choose the type of system for draining, draining and utilizing wastewater based on local conditions.
2. Determine the location of the toilet on the site.
3. Choose the type and design solution of the ground structure; simply - cabins or booths.
4. Deal with its decorative design: which of the appropriate in this case will be able to do.
5. Estimate construction costs.

It must be said that these problems are closely interconnected and it is necessary to deal with them together with everyone. A little aside there is only a booth; it almost does not interact with the underground part and the base. So the toilet cabin can be made, in general, whatever you like, and this is the easiest and cheapest part of the work. Therefore, we will start with it.

Booth

The main material for the construction, as mentioned above, we take a tree. It is known that it is inexpensive, easily processed, retains heat well, breathes, and after simple processing (see below) remains harmless to humans, but becomes resistant to bad weather and becomes unsuitable for the settlement of various kinds of infection, is known. However, there are still circumstances due to which a wooden toilet is the best solution for giving.

About foundations and supports

The soil is considered suitable for construction if its bearing capacity without additional measures to strengthen it and the foundation is at least 1.7 kg sq. see Convert to square meters; we get 17 tons (!). The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet cabin in terms of rarely exceeds 2.5-3 square meters. m; hozbloka - 15-20 sq. m. Is it conceivable that they weigh 40-50 and 250-350 tons, respectively?

Move on. Soil is considered excessively heaving when it freezes by 12%. We take the thickness of the humus layer, which swells the most, at 50 cm; this is not a cottage, but an eldorado. 50x0.12 \u003d 6 cm. On homogeneous loose soils, a uniformly swelling surface is considered to be one whose horizontal size is equal to 100 absolute values ​​of heaving; in this case - 600 cm or 6 m.

Are there toilets or change houses larger than 6x6 m in plan? We conclude: a toilet in a summer cottage can be built without a foundation. With seasonal ground movements, it will simply rise and fall by less than 10 cm (and most likely by 3-4), without warping at all, which is completely imperceptible.

Moreover, it is not necessary to build a foundation for a toilet: taking into account the allotment of land for a construction site with excavation, at least a hundred square meters is withdrawn from the economic turnover. And if the site is already planted, what to do? And from a construction point of view: an unloaded foundation buried in the ground can warp and tilt more than the soil surface. The reason is the uneven and inhomogeneous freezing of its layers. The foundation tape, piles or pillars feel it, in contrast to the surface, immediately “with the whole body”.

Note: therefore, builders strive to finish the foundations early in order to build as many walls as possible before the cold weather. An exception is the foundations of a large depth, they can winter without restrictions.

The conclusion “without a foundation” is known to summer residents without calculations with special knowledge. Toilet cabins are placed on bricks or ready-made small reinforced concrete monoliths. However, it would be best to put an outdoor toilet on a couple of concrete posts for trellises. They are sold not only in the southern regions for vineyards; in colder places they go under hops and other climbing crops.

Tapestry poles are produced with a length of 1.2-6 m, with overall dimensions in plan from 10x12 to 20x30 cm. The cross section is trapezoidal, with rounded corners of the smaller side. And on the larger one - rigging eyes made of wire rod 6-12 mm. Sawed them in the middle with a grinder and gently unbent, we get the pins for attaching the cabin to the base.

Note: if the toilet is with a cesspool, then the problem of the cabin rear support beam (wood in a chemically aggressive environment) is not only resolved by itself - it simply does not arise.

In places with strong winds, it is still advisable to make support posts from a 80x80 bar or a 40x40x2 professional pipe under the booth. Metal concrete is concreted about 30 cm deeper than the humus layer, and wooden ones are dug in to the same depth, pre-treated with very hot bitumen and wrapped with roofing material with sprinkling (rough).

Constructions

Materials and upholstery

Cabin lumber is mainly used in 4 types:

• Bar 60x60 or 80x80 - for the frame.
• Grooved board 40x (120-150) - for the floor and toilet seat.
• Edged or tongue-and-groove board 20-30 mm for external cladding.
• Edged or unedged board-twenty or slats 50x20 for roof lathing.

Sheathing board can be replaced with waterproof plywood or OSB 8-20 mm thick. In the latter case, the slats for the crate can be cut into them. It will also only be better from all sides and only a little more expensive if a tongue-and-groove magpie is put on the skin.

Sheathing with a tongue-and-groove board will show all its advantages if the cabin is sheathed with horizontal belts. But then it is absolutely necessary to orient the crests of the tongues up, and the grooves down, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the tongue. In any case, the door is sheathed vertically.

Curvilinear sections, suddenly such will be required according to the design conditions, it is better to sheathe them in a marine way with a boat board, see fig. Also, such sheathing will last longer in places with heavy rainfall, but it holds a strong wind a little worse than sheet piling. Having a jigsaw with a swivel shoe, it is easy to make a boat board from a cut one; the angle of inclination of the visor of the board is about 30 degrees. The peaks of the boards should be oriented down the slope, as in fig.

Massive, i.e. from solid wood, after cutting to size, lumber must be treated: all without exception with anti-rot preparations (biocides), and then soaked twice with a water-polymer emulsion; this inexpensive material protects the tree from moisture for many years. It is necessary to impregnate in this sequence, otherwise the PVA film will not let the biocide into the tree! And if it’s necessary, then it will prevent its volatilization and washing out. Details facing the ground or cesspool (for flooring and lining the toilet seat - under the boards) must be additionally treated with hot bitumen or bituminous mastic.

Cabin types

A wooden toilet on the street, according to the type and technology of construction, is carried out in general in 4 architectural forms; see fig.: hut, birdhouse, house, hut.

The difference between them is insignificant, but still there:

1. The hut is structurally simple, durable, resistant to wind and precipitation, the least material-intensive, but takes up more land for itself and is inconvenient: a step to the right, a step to the left - a knock on the head. And for "not knocking" you need to take the height of the ridge up to 3 m or more, so that the savings in materials disappear. The design is most appropriate primitivist-rustic.
2. A birdhouse is even simpler than a hut, it will take no more wood for it, it takes a minimum of land. But the structure is weak, and the whole structure does not hold heat well and is easier to blow through with the wind, this is a common drawback of all buildings with a pitched roof. Doesn't suit the design. However, as a summer toilet or a section of a utility block in the backyard behind dense vegetation, a birdhouse toilet is optimal; especially due to the fact that on its roof a solar-heated water pressurized tank is placed without problems. The cabin under load at the same time acquires additional strength.
3. The house is warmer and a little stronger than a birdhouse. Materials and land require the same amount. A water tank is more difficult to attach, but almost any decoration and decoration is acceptable.
4. The hut is more complicated than the others, more material is wasted. Thanks to its faceted shape, it is very durable and can withstand any climatic conditions. Ergonomics and functionality - it can't be better: a shelf and a washstand do not take up floor space, you can also attach a hanger. By design - do everything that is only suitable for a toilet, and by itself fits into any landscape.

About sizes

The recommended sizes of cabins for a birdhouse and a house on the floor, together with a toilet seat, are from 1.2 m wide and from 1.5 m deep. For a hut with a hut, the depth is the same, but the width is taken from 0.9 m - in a hut at shoulder level (this is about 1.6 m from the floor for a person of average height in shoes), and in a hut along the floor. In block Khrushchevs there are toilets 0.7x1.1 m, then they don’t go there in warm outerwear and garden shoe covers.

Note: the width of the toilet of a summer cottage on a weekend can be reduced to 1 m.

In any case, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a standing person to the nearest wall, this is important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. The height of the ceiling above the floor is not lower than 2.1 m, above the toilet seat - from 1.9 m. The height of the side of the seat above the floor, also based on heavy shoes, is taken more than the standard for an apartment toilet 40 cm by 5-6, up to 10 cm, t .e. 45-50 cm, depending on the height of users.

About door hinges

Cabins, a hut, a birdhouse and a house have a common drawback: if you forget to lock the door, the wind can loosen it together with the booth in just 10-20 minutes. To avoid this, it is advisable to hang the door on barn hinges, as in pos. 1-3 fig. above. A strong hut is not afraid of this, its door can be safely hung on hidden hinges.

Building a booth

The construction of the simplest birdhouse cabin is illustrated step by step in Fig; the entire installation is carried out on nails 100 mm (for 60 mm timber) or 150 mm, for timber 80x80. Sheathing is carried out on nails 60-70 mm. The build order is:

1. The bearing belt, or corner slabs / columns are covered with a simple, without sprinkling, roofing material in 2 layers;
2. Immediately (an inexpensive roofing material that is not stabilized to UV in the light quickly deteriorates), the lower support frame is assembled from a bar. Don't forget to edit!
3. Lay the floor to the front edge of the toilet seat. On the rest of the frame, a board of the same thickness as for the floor is stuffed. Also do not forget to process, especially from the underside;
4. Prepare the front (large) and rear frames. Joints cut into half a tree;
5. The front frame and the backdrop are nailed to the bottom and tied with couplers cut into a quarter;
6. The frame of the toilet seat is made in the same way;
7. Sheathe the toilet seat, cut out the seat window (a point is a completely legal technical term) and sheathe the walls;
8. Assemble the roof sheathing;
9. They lay a roof (any hard roofing material), cut out an ace, hang a door (see below about it), sheathe the corners - you're done! Whoever is more impatient there, you can already!

The described method is far from the only acceptable one. The construction of a toilet booth is possible in other ways. For example, see a rather detailed video:

Video: do-it-yourself toilet in the country

What is a toilet ace?

This is the same figured window above the door or in its canvas. Its symbolism is now forgotten, but in the sanctimonious Middle Ages it was quite definite. The heart is not really a call for sex in a latrine, but an ace of hearts. It meant that this latrine was publicly available. Diamond - only for the fair sex! In the old days, ladies had the right to use any free cabin, and gentlemen - only for them.

There was no smell of feminism or even equality here: the same gentlemen bluntly put on chastity belts (a monstrous device in their unsanitary conditions) on those who were sung romances, and killing a wife for adultery was not considered a crime. Gallantry is gallantry, but take out the right of the strong and put it down! The clubs and aces of spades were not used: the churchmen and the military would be offended. In the days of the Inquisition, who knows what was even more fraught ... A nobleman would quickly stab or hack to death, and the holy fathers could send him to the stake.

More cabins

The second most demanded of the toilet cabins is the hut. Since its structure is more complicated, we present a finished project with cutting boards and calculating material consumption, see fig. Pay attention to the door: its canvas with such a system of power connections will withstand any wind and is suitable for any toilet. It is possible that the unlocked door, forgotten on weekdays, will be torn off, but the canvas will not loosen and the repair will be reduced to rehanging.

On fig. below are, for example, less detailed drawings of another birdhouse, a hut and a house. If you figure out how to build a hut, then further explanations will not be needed for them.

About the toilet in the garden

For a number of reasons, which will be discussed in more detail at the end of the article, it is advisable to build a toilet on the site, especially a hut and a house, among the trees. However, the construction of a garden toilet has some peculiarities. They are not big enough to linger on their description, so we just offer a video:

Video: building a garden toilet

Hozbloki

In dachas, it is customary to combine a toilet, shower, barn; perhaps - a summer kitchen and a shelter from the weather (if there is no house yet or a commodity cottage, where squares of land give money) in one block. At least from the point of view of the biochemistry of effluents, this is justified: in the dacha, the share of gray water (drainage from the shower and from the kitchen) is much less relative to fecal than in a residential building, and the volume of flow is small, so it makes little sense to think about their separate treatment. It is more profitable to process a cesspool (the hozblok allows only this option for waste disposal) with universal means. Therefore, let's see how it would be more capable to make a hozblok with a shower and a toilet for a summer residence.

Plan hozblok "Cheburashka"

On fig. above - a variant invented spontaneously and popularly under Khrushchev, later nicknamed "Cheburashka". Kits of parts for its assembly under the same name are still sold today. Feature - extreme simplicity, low cost and sufficient functionality with a minimum of occupied space. Support pillars (beam 100x100 or corrugated pipe 40x40x2) are dug in or concreted directly into the ground. Sheathed once with slate; now - professional sheet.

On the trail. rice. - 2 plans for household blocks are more complicated. Their larger premises can be used not only as a warehouse / shed, but also as a change house “from bad weather” with a kitchen; the presence of a window, its area and dimensions allow you to put a trestle bed and a table with a fireplace, and the wooden paneling is quite warm. It pays off with a larger occupied area and the fact that the entrance to the toilet with a shower is only from the street, there is no longer a place for a dressing room.

Finally, in fig. on the right - a utility block for construction in the corner of the site, with an open summer washbasin. The peculiarity is compactness and very tiny dimensions: the structure is brick, but if, with the same dimensions of the premises, it is made of wood, the dimensions in the plan are reduced to 2x2 m.

About the cesspool

We will talk more about cesspools, tricks in their construction and ways to do without a cesspool at all below; in general.

In the meantime - see the diagram in the figure, suitable for a yard toilet and a utility block. Pay attention to the reflector 1, it is absolutely necessary for the toilet, because. directs the discarded faeces to the front of the pit. Then they slowly slide into a pocket for pumping out, being processed by bacteria along the way. Without a reflector, the entire biocenosis in the pit will be confused, and approximately twice its volume will be needed. Gray drains are discharged into a pit without a reflector, but also into the front. A blind concrete box 4 and a clay lock 3 in the country house are also absolutely necessary to prevent infiltration into the soil, and the purpose of the inspection and cleaning door 2 does not require explanation.

How about at home?

It is understandable, recovering in warmth - in goodness is not only more comfortable, but also healthier. However, it is quite possible to arrange a country toilet in the house, but before a number of problems will need to be addressed.

The first is a cesspool. It is unrealistic to divert wastewater into a well with infiltration into the ground; according to the current sanitary rules, then you will need to maintain distances:

• At least 30 m from water supply sources, and with normal geology in the middle lane - 50-80 m.
• From stagnant water bodies and plantings of food crops - from 30 m.
• From rivers and streams - from 15 m.
• From buildings and roads - at least 5 m.
• From non-fruit trees, bushes and the border of the site - from 2 m.

All this applies not only to their own, but also to neighboring facilities that are prone to pollution. Neighborhood even more, tk. in the event of a conflict, the whole truth according to the law will be on their side. That is, a home-country toilet must be built with a cesspool of a deaf type, which requires periodic pumping. I must say that with the help of modern means for cesspools, it can be solved: a sanitation service outside the city has to be called no more than once a quarter, and there is always time to cooperate with neighbors in this regard.

Note: craftsmen-dacha residents did not ignore the cesspools. For example, how to make a cesspool that is feasible for self-construction, that does not cause indignation of neighbors and subsequently suitable for legalization (dacha amnesty will not last a century), see the video below:

Video: do-it-yourself cesspool

The second problem is the smell. It is impossible to put a flush toilet with a water seal (siphon) over a cesspool even in a country house with excessive and completely free water supply: excess moisture will destroy the bacteria in the pit, and not a planned pumping out will be needed, but emergency cleaning, with payment, in addition to a sanitary tank, for the work of a plumber team on the road .

Toilets with a cesspool are made backlash closets; simply - with a push in the form of a funnel with a lid. But the backlash-closet does not exclude the penetration of odors into the room, if only due to jumps in draft in the ventilation and blowing it with the wind. Therefore, the cesspool of a home toilet must be ventilated not with an ordinary fan pipe, but with a breather - ventilation with forced draft, which creates a pressure below atmospheric in the pit.

Putting a fan on the breather broach is a disastrous business. Household in an aggressive environment will not last long; a very expensive special one (it must be, among other things, also explosion-proof) will often have to be cleaned, and what it grows there, it’s better not to see it, let alone smell it or touch it.

It is quite easy to arrange a toilet in a country house with heating; options for furnace and boiler see fig. A backlash channel with thermogradient thrust is made under the breather. In order for it to work even in the warm season, when they do not heat, the breather pipe (it must protrude at least 70 cm above the mouth of the chimney and the ridge of the roof) is made of metal and painted black, then the Sun will warm up.

However, there is also an option for seasonal cottages without heating. Recall that in the first brick Khrushchev houses, rather rough faience toilet bowls were washed clean, and many did not even keep a ruff on the farm. Why? The flush cistern was suspended from a 2.8 m high ceiling; for descent, a pear on a chain hung from it. In total, the pressure was over 2 m. A strong jet with a terrible noise demolished everything at once into the outlet.

Noise during the descent was not the last circumstance that gave rise to compact toilets. But in a classic sink with a tub, a weak jet could not wash anything at all. Then they came up with toilets with an oblique descent, see fig. on right. True, you can’t take a closer look at them - and what kind of chair I have now - and you can’t do without a ruff, but even a weak stream washes off acceptable.

The author, faced several years ago with the need to remake a country toilet, thought: it would not hurt to put something with a siphon so that it never stinks at all. The oblique unique is washed off quite cleanly with a weak stream, but what if you give it a strong one, as in Khrushchev's? Less water consumption with the same flush quality.

At first I wanted to buy a cheap compact with a tank without a dispenser (water flows while the button is pressed) and raise it higher, but then I thought: why? It is inconvenient to stretch, water is supplied according to the schedule, therefore, a pressure-storage tank is also needed. In the end, I took one sink with a downward outlet, right into the pit. I hung a 50-liter plastic barrel under the ceiling, and supplied water for flushing with two pieces of plastic corrugation through a ball valve with a handle to open it more sharply.

The result exceeded all expectations: it takes up to 3 liters of water to flush. From a 50-liter tank - 15-25 flushes per day, enough for four. The cleaning community in the pit is thriving.

Note: any of the cabins described above will withstand a 200-liter barrel under the ceiling, but it is not necessary. Users will get a taste, the pit will turn sour from excess moisture and begin to instantly overflow.

And without a pit?

Since there are such difficulties with the cesspool, is it possible to somehow make a latrine without a cesspool? It is possible and they do. Dry closets. But, firstly, any bio sewage, because. Bacteria, natural or artificial, are used to treat wastewater. Secondly, a toilet that is bio may not be bio at all. So let's understand better how it is possible to receive and process wastewater in the country without any, i.e. make a stand-alone toilet.

Autonomous public spaces are divided primarily into chemical and biological. They can be both, depending on which cartridge is connected, see below. In chemical effluents, they are processed with strong inorganic oxidizing agents or organic reagents of abiogenic origin (formalin, etc.). "Chemists" are expensive, their absorption and throughput is high. The content of the spent cartridge is very toxic, its refilling and disposal is possible only by certified specialists using special equipment using protective agents, so chemical toilets are rarely used in everyday life.

It is customary to call dry closets those in which the biocenosis of bacteria processing wastewater does not arise spontaneously, but is created by a specially sown culture. From this point of view, a deaf cesspool, processed by modern septic tanks, is also a dry closet, but we will consider options without the accumulation of liquefied sewage and not requiring pumping

The oldest species that has successfully survived to this day is a peat toilet with its kind of powder closet, this is not the same thing. Both use natural bacteria from peat bogs; conditions deep in a peat bog are very similar to those in a cesspool. Peat bacteria are inactive: they work slowly, they process effluents, based on the net volume of the culture, there is little. But they are extremely resilient, easily "fall asleep" and awaken when favorable conditions occur.

In a simple, or composting, peat closet (on the left in the figure), a 40-200 l collection container with stone drainage is placed under the backlash closet - it will absorb excess moisture, and then gradually give it away - and a breather that sucks out harmful gases. Without one or the other, a stable culture will not arise, it will either dry up and fall asleep, or turn sour and die, or get poisoned and also die.

Using a composting peat closet is simple: after sitting, peat crumbs are poured into the funnel. The collection is periodically shaken out on a compost heap, after aging for 2-3 years, the fermented and disinfected compost is suitable for fertilizer. But a composting toilet, firstly, does not guarantee against smell, and secondly, like a powder closet, see below, it cannot withstand overloads: suddenly a company showed up at the dacha to eat tightly with beer, the stench and the need for a complete cleaning with refueling are guaranteed.

"Pudrum" means dust. This word and its derivatives with different prefixes in the Romano-Germanic languages ​​are generally called any powders. For example, in English gunpowder means black powder, and baby powder means baby powder for scuffs. An excerpt from J. Durrell's book My Family and Other Animals will help you understand what a powder closet is. Anyone who has read Darrell (Gerald, not his older brother Lawrence) knows that the famous naturalist is also an extraordinary writer.

So, the “absurd family” of the Durrells, in the author’s own words, decided “to improve their health” to live for a long time on the island of Corfu, now Kerkyra. While we were looking for a house for permanent housing, we stopped at a hotel. Next - see the scan from the printed text.

The box that Geralda's sister did find in her room, she probably pulled out of the powder closet. The first devices of this kind were used as chamber pots and filled with peat dust. In the form of a bucket with peat crumbs under a toilet seat, they came to us in the middle latitudes, because. a real closet powder is effective at an average daily temperature above 23 degrees, and a bucket of crumbs needs to be emptied one way or another every day or more often.

A box of a real powder-closet with a capacity of 30, and preferably from 50 liters (in the center in the figure above) is filled with pressed peat plates tightly laid vertically. In places where there is no peat and it is expensive, they use special paper impregnated with peat extract, dense and durable, but highly porous, the so-called. kraft paper. It was this kind of closet powder that the civilized, without prejudice, but not very knowledgeable Margot Durrell encountered. However, she was then in a transitional age, and, having matured, she helped her brother a lot in his useful work.

Peat toilets are sold ready-made. Stationary ones (on the right in the figure above) can be used both as a powder closet and as a bio-toilet on artificial cultures: the drawer accommodates both a peat container and replaceable bacterial cartridges. No preparation for installation is required, the booth is simply placed where necessary. One filling with peat filler is enough for 2-3 people for 3-4 days, and with breaks for 5 days, at a weekend cottage, for 1-3 months.

Composting toilet seats are also on sale, but here you need to look both ways. First, all sorts of environmental, and in fact fraudulent societies produce products like "super-duper-eco-plus XXX" like the one on the left in Fig. They are eco-certified. But in fact it turns out that the peat dispenser needs to be filled with special granules, very expensive, otherwise it breaks right away. They do it themselves or their accomplices. A sort of outhouse Herbalife or Nature's Sushine. In general, network marketing as it is.

Sometimes, perhaps, simply out of incomprehension, under the guise of peat toilets, they sell toilet seats with a swivel cassette for special bacterial cartridges, on the right in fig. Peat can be filled in them, and you can also relieve yourself there. But if the cartridge is just changing, then how can you clean it on peat?

Autonomous toilets on microflora use highly effective bacteria obtained by genetic engineering. For humans, they are harmless and safe, proven by many years of experience, since the 80s. The culture cartridge changes on its own (the procedure is no dirtier than changing diapers), but the contents are unsuitable for fertilizer and must be recycled. To give a day off, 1 cassette is enough for the summer, for a seasonal one you will need 2-3 replacements. However, here, too, you need to choose carefully. No cheating, just all sorts of varieties.

For example, it makes no sense to take a very expensive public booth, pos. 1 in fig. at the bottom. Yes, it is warm, anti-vandal, it is able to accept a lot. But - the shelf life of any bacterial cartridge is limited, regardless of the nature of use. Culture degrades long before you use up its absorption capacity, and the cost of replacing a cassette is not small.

The second pitfall is artisanal cheap stuff, pos. 2. They take an “alternative” bio-toilet bowl (see below) cheaper, build a booth around it. Then - rapid degradation, smell, changing the cartridge for your own. The miser pays twice, as always. If we take a one-piece dry closet, then it is a country-household one, pos. 3. These are cheaper due to a smaller resource for drains, it is designed for a family.

The same applies to the bio-toilets themselves. High-capacity public, able to work on both microflora and chemistry, pos. 4, are expensive and include everything that has been said about ready-made dry closets. There are special country bio-toilets on sale, pos. 5, cheaper and designed for families. But it’s not water that can be poured into their tank (they immediately deteriorate), but a special liquid supplied to the flush literally in drops, so you need to find out how it is washed off and how much the flush costs.

Bucket toilets for summer cottages (pos. 6) come with replaceable cartridges designed for 3-5 people and 2-5 days; for a weekend cottage, this is not the worst option. But there are also conditionally disposable chemical ones, they are intended for traveling work, various kinds of field trips, etc. As a rule, they are rented, and when the absorber is depleted or when they return home, they are given for refueling.

Another “bio-dachny” option is a toilet bowl with a separate cartridge, pos. 7. Much cheaper than a finished toilet. Having made the cabin to your liking or buying it separately, you can get a completely hygienic room that everyone needs, pos. 8. For a dacha, this is perhaps the best option today: the cost of a toilet bowl and changing cartridges for a long time is less than a zero cycle and a cesspool for a booth.

Note: Nevertheless, a significant circumstance prevents the widespread use of dry closets - bacteria designed for small cartridges are unable to accept gray waste. Therefore, for a dacha inhabited from spring to autumn, it is still better to recommend a deaf cesspool, treated with bacteria that are not so effective and require more living space, but are omnivores.

And about design

The fact that the design follows from the functionality and should not go to the detriment of it is an elementary truth. However, the functionality of the toilet is unsightly, and this is not a complex. All living things are vulnerable when performing natural needs. Shame is just a manifestation of the instinct of self-preservation. The reproductive instinct may overpower him, but urination and defecation are not intercourse. Therefore, in the design of the toilet, you need to know very well and carefully observe the measure.

For example, you don’t need to force the toilet to repeat: “No, I’m not a toilet!”, As in pos. 1-3 fig. It's clumsily done or with high skill, it doesn't matter. You get something like an excuse for a certain character: “Boss, I didn’t steal a green crocodile lop with 185 bucks and 50 cents and a photo of a 30-year-old blonde with a boy of school age!” What followed: “And I, you sloppy cormorant, did I tell you which wallet was stolen?” Since the cabin is striking, what a secrecy of departure.

Pos. 4-6 illustrate a generally legitimate approach - disguise. We will modestly keep silent about our essence, and whoever needs it will show it or find it on its own. There is scope for design delights, but only with great experience, taste and ability to work. Otherwise, something like pos. 7-9, at the sight of which both the designer and the psychiatrist agree on one thing: this is not design.

When designing a toilet, it is best to remember: what is natural is not ugly, even if it cannot be flaunted. Specifically, natural disguise for this need: vegetation, stone, pos. 10-12. Rustic primitivism and phytodesign are by no means at enmity, pos. 11. But since the booth is larger than a person and the view from it is worse, it is advisable to place a booth of simple natural forms among the trees, pos. 10. Or, as usual in bushes, hide among small phytoforms so that it is not visible, pos. 12. In this case, this is the most natural and, therefore, the best technique. And the most hygienic.

August 6, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

It's no secret that the arrangement of a garden plot should begin with the construction of a toilet. Its presence is very convenient even if the house has a bathroom, because when working in the garden, you will not need to go home to visit the restroom. Therefore, I decided to devote this article to how to build a garden toilet on your own, which, in fact, is much easier than many people imagine.

Project

As you know, any construction always begins with a project, and the toilet in this case is no exception. At this stage, you need to decide on the following points:

Below I will tell you about all the nuances of designing a toilet.

Location on the plot

So, first of all, you need to decide on the location of the building. The fact is that the toilet in the garden should be located according to certain rules.

For example, if the site has level differences, the toilet should be located on its high part. In the lowland, there is a possibility of flooding during the period of snow melting or storm water.

In addition, it is extremely important to correctly maintain the distance from the toilet to other objects:

Of course, it is necessary to provide a convenient approach to the toilet. Moreover, you should think in advance and how to clean the garden toilet when the cesspool is full. To do this, it is necessary to provide an entrance for a sewage truck to it. Therefore, it makes sense to place the building closer to the fence.

I must say that many people try to arrange the toilet so that it is hidden and does not spoil the exterior of the site with its appearance. However, if you approach the construction creatively, then the design can even become an ornament.

Toilet design

There are a great many options for the design of the toilet and the materials from which it can be built. However, as an example, consider how to build a closet out of wood, which will be based on a frame made of timber.

For its construction, it is not necessary to have experience in similar construction or experience in working with wood. The only thing before you start working, you need to draw up drawings of a garden toilet with your own hands or use ready-made ones, for example, presented on our portal.

If you will deal with the drawings on your own, then you need to decide on the dimensions of the structure. The standard sizes are as follows:

The main elements of the frame are racks, which are connected into a single structure by the lower and upper strapping. In addition, cross-beams and braces can be used to give strength to the frame. To ensure the slope of the roof, the back wall should be made 10 centimeters lower than the front.

During the execution of the drawing, it is necessary to indicate the dimensions of all structural details in millimeters. This will simplify further work, as well as prevent errors during the installation process.

materials

To build the toilet in question, you will need the following parts:

• a bar with a section of 50x50 mm - for the manufacture of a frame and a toilet seat;
• boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm - for the floor and lining of the toilet seat;
• lining, boards or other material for sheathing the frame;
• roofing material - slate, corrugated board or any other.

Cesspool

Since the toilet will not accept domestic sewage, the cesspool can be made small. For example, a volume of one and a half to two cubic meters will be enough for a family of three to four people. At the same time, it will have to be cleaned every few years.

As for the construction of the pit, its walls must be sealed, and the bottom is covered with sand and gravel. Each layer should be about 15 centimeters. This is necessary to filter the liquid constituents of the waste.

As a rule, the walls of the pit are poured with concrete. However, you can use a faster and more economical way of sealing - stack car tires on top of each other.

In cases where groundwater flows near the soil surface, the pit must be completely sealed. For example, the bottom can be poured with concrete, and slopes can be laid on top.

To make an airtight cesspool, you can use a plastic container. For example, the euro-cube is perfect for these purposes. The price of a used euro-cube with a volume of 1000 liters is about 4000-5000 rubles.

Building a toilet

frame

After preparing the project, you can proceed directly to the construction of the toilet. Since digging and arranging a hole is not difficult, let's start right away with construction.

So, the work is done in the following order:

1. First of all, you need to mark the location of the structure. The frame must be installed so that the rear of the toilet is above the pit;
2. Next, you need to complete the foundation, which can be used as concrete blocks. To do this, you need to dig holes in the corners of the pit structure to a depth of about 40 cm. The bottom of the pits should be covered with sand and gravel, carefully tamped, after which blocks are laid on top.
   I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the blocks must be located in the same horizontal plane, therefore, in the process of laying them, you should use the building level. When the foundation is ready, it is necessary to lay several layers of roofing material on the blocks, which will serve as waterproofing;

1. further, the base of the frame is made from the beam, which is a rectangle. For reliability, the timber should be connected to each other “in the paw” or “in the floor of the tree”. However, if you do not have the proper experience with wood, you can get by with a butt joint.
   In any case, it is necessary to strengthen the corners with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
   That part of the toilet, which is located above the pit, must be separated by a transverse beam, as shown in the photo above;
2. then you need to install vertical racks at the corners of the structure. To do this, you should also use metal corners and screws. In addition, you can strengthen the racks with braces;
3. on top of the rack you need to tie the top harness, which serves as the basis for the roof;
4. in front of the toilet you need to make a door frame. For this, two racks are also installed, on top of which a cross member is attached.
5. in the back or side of the frame, you need to make a window box. To do this, two crossbars are attached to the racks, between which two vertical racks are installed. The distance between them determines the width of the window, and the distance between the crossbars determines its height;

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, all wooden parts should be treated with an antiseptic that prevents the process of decay.

This completes the construction of the frame.

sheathing

As a rule, garden toilets for summer cottages are sheathed with boards or clapboard. The latter will give the design a more attractive look.

It can be positioned both horizontally and vertically. To fasten the lining or boards to the frame, you can use both self-tapping screws and nails.

Particular attention should be paid to the roof. It is performed in the following sequence:

1. on the upper harness you need to fill the crate. To do this, you can use wooden slats or boards. True, in the case of using flexible tiles, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood should be fixed instead of the crate;
2. then a waterproofing film is attached over the crate. To fix it, you can use wooden slats and nails;
3. then any roofing material is laid.

Now you need to execute. To do this, you need to make a rectangular frame from a bar according to the size of the door frame, and then sheathe it with boards. You can install the door on ordinary canopies.

To glaze a window, it is necessary to cut or order glass of suitable sizes. It can be fixed with glazing beads located on both sides of the glass.

Making a toilet seat

Now it remains only to complete the toilet seat and lay the floors. The instructions for doing this work look like this:

1. a frame is also used at the heart of the toilet seat. To make it, first of all, you need to install horizontal crossbars on the left and right walls, as in the photo above. The distance from the floor to the crossbars determines the height of the toilet seat, which is usually selected individually;
2. next, toilet seat racks are installed, which are attached to the crossbars from above, and from below to the base of the structure;
3. from above, both racks are also connected by a cross member located perpendicular to the side horizontal bars;
4. now the resulting frame should be sheathed with boards;
5. in the center of the toilet seat, you should attach a board from the toilet and circle it with a pencil;
6. Next, you need to cut a hole along the contour with a jigsaw. To do this, you first need to drill a hole into which a jigsaw file can enter;
7. at the end of the work, you need to lay the boards on the floor of the toilet, and also fix the board from the toilet on the toilet seat.

This completes the construction of the garden toilet.

Conclusion

As you can see, building a garden toilet on your own is really not difficult. If you wish, you can make it in the form of a tower or even place an outdoor shower under one roof. The main thing is to pre-prepare the project and follow a certain sequence of actions.

You can get more information from the video in this article. If you don’t understand any points or have difficulties during the construction process, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to help you.

August 6, 2016

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